In severe frost, the engine may not start for the following commonplace reasons:

1. Bad oil. - I pour oil TOKAY, Japan, in Vladik for 4 liters 1800 with delivery to Anadyr 2300, 0W30, zero problems.

2. Weak battery - It's simple. There are no bad batteries, there is not correct operation and a malfunction of the recharging system (IMHO).

3. Defective ignition system.

4. Bad gasoline. - This does not threaten us - he is always bad.

5. Other not trivial reasons. Here is the algorithm with which you can start the car in frost:

1. the matter is in the oil The consistency of the oil can be checked on the dipstick. You don't need to be a great specialist to see that the oil thickens too much in the cold. Summer, low-quality or dirty oil that has not been changed for a long time can thicken too much. Do not be lazy to check the oil before sinning on the battery. If you are convinced that the oil in the crankcase is bad, and there are big problems with the replacement, there is a way to survive severe frosts. Consider it an emergency emergency. .. With normal oil, the reason for poor shaft rotation ..

2. the case is in the battery. It can be discharged or worn out. Before the onset of frost, it is recommended to put the battery on charge for at least 6 - 7 hours. If in the morning it does not pull again, you will have to buy another one, even if this one is completely new. Batteries with ceramic plates (eg Warta) can die after only a few deep (full) discharges. Battery performance is highly dependent on its temperature. If the battery worked normally in the summer, then warming it up even without recharging (you can bring it home at night, if urgent, you can warm it up in a basin of warm water), you will achieve summer scrolling efficiency while it is warm. … If the shaft spins well and there is at least one cotton….

3. the reason is in the ignition system. The first thing to do is replace the candles with new ones or ignite them. Place on a metal support on a gas stove and heat for 30-40 minutes. As a result, all plaque burns off them, the insulators turn white. If they remain red, the candles should be cleaned by soaking in a rust converter for 1-2 days. Pay attention to the required electrode gap. You can even reduce it a little. For example, for 1.1 to 1.0mm .. Having unscrewed one candle, you can make assumptions about the problem of starting: -If there is black (or very dark) deposits on the candle, the fuel mixture is excessively rich. -If there is no dark carbon deposit on the removed plug, it is a poor fuel mixture or no fuel. BB wires. The ends that are in the coil usually do not lose lubrication. And those ends that are put on candles need to be lubricated with silicone grease or simply sprayed with VDshka. ... failure when starting in cold weather ... ..

4. from bad gasoline. THE MOST COMMON CAUSE! Our gasoline is most often diluted in two ways - either with gasoline with a lower octane number (cheaper), or simply with water. The mixture just doesn't burn. Moreover, it is difficult to immediately grasp why this motor stubbornly refuses to work - the spark is excellent, gasoline is supplied, the shaft is spinning, and…. do not start. In this case, the way out is to replace gasoline with a known good one or topping up a good one is 2 times more than the remains in the tank. … .. about powerful starting transformers capable of spinning a frozen shaft of any engine. You can use them for a very limited time. If there are no "pops" at all - do not "drive" the starter in vain - burn it, but look for the cause of the problem. Five minutes of attempts to start without "claps" with powerful scrolling and "dry" friction is equivalent in wear to a run of 500 km.

5. Other reasons: insufficient fuel pressure in the system, clogged injectors, frozen wet air filter, etc ... .. any minor imperfections in the cold can become a big problem.

6. faulty starter. Bendix either does not engage with the flywheel or breaks off from it. Here it is necessary to put the car in a warm place and warm it up, or put a fan heater under the hood and warm up the starter. It is worth going over - definitely.

7. Special attention to contacts. Oxidized, loose contacts significantly reduce the likelihood of start-up. For example, the contacts of the battery, starter, generator, explosive wires, coils - ESPECIALLY, sensors, etc ... In the basins, as a rule, the PHAZ and Oxygen sensor with Bosch firmware, with January the oxygen sensor is not to blame.

It happens that the lambda probe (oxygen content sensor in the exhaust gases) and MAF (MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR) are blamed for the problems of cold start of foreign cars. This is mistake. They come into operation only after warming up to operating temperature. But the air temperature sensor, in cold weather, gives the brain a fundamental signal about the desired composition of the mixture. Therefore, if the mixture is very rich, you can try to turn it off or warm it in your hands - it also touches the basins.

Before starting, it is recommended to turn on the ignition several times without starting the engine and let the fuel pump run, which creates the required pressure in the system. -if the battery is good and spent the night in the cold, you can turn on the dipped beam for a minute and warm it up a little. -It is also recommended to depress the clutch pedal, making it easier for the starter to work.

If the engine does not start on the second try, you need to:

1. Squeeze the traction pedal, squeeze the accelerator (gas) pedal to the floor.

2. The key is in the ignition for the starter and 10-15 sec. turn with a starter (the lower part of the spark plugs, filled with fuel, becomes dry). (This is not always understood by a machine whose throttle cable is not correctly adjusted - only applies to foreign cars.)

3. Repeat starting the engine. If it was not possible to start 2-3 times, then stop trying and look for the reason. It makes no sense to drive the starter and plant the battery. -No need to turn the crankshaft more than 3-4-5 turns. A break of 30sec-1min is required between attempts. so that the fuel injected into the cylinders evaporates. Otherwise, it floods the candles. There is no need to touch the gas - the brains do not understand this situation (this does not apply to the basins). If none of the above gives a result, there is only one way out. We need to drive the car into a warm box. And after prolonged warming up, continue the start-up attempts - repeat everything anew with the basins - they will start unambiguously with a live battery without a garage.

About engine and battery insulation.

Here, everyone is as good as they can, but I will not list what I saw, but simply describe what I tried.

Insulation is definitely needed. The question is what and how to insulate. Let's look at an analogy first.

If warm air is driven into a warm glass and turned over, then it will be able to cool only due to the heat transfer of the walls, and leakage-blowing will be insignificant. Cool down conditionally in an hour ...

If this glass is turned over, everything will blow out, and heat transfer can be neglected. And it won't stay hot for a minute ...

If the engine compartment is without slots, including the radiator grill, it will be BLINDLY blocked by closed shutters, there will be nowhere for heat to flow away, except through heat transfer through the walls, just like from an inverted glass.

How to make such a glass?

We have one side hole - the front grille. It is necessary to close it so that the heat cannot go sideways. These are the blinds. They must be installed so that air under the hood cannot enter bypassing them. Then, in the closed state, they will deafly close the heat leak to the side.

The leakage remains downward, but it is much less lateral.

After installing the blinds, it is necessary to eliminate the bonnet connection gaps. After that, it is better to glue the iron in a circle with a porous material and additionally apply a "blanket" to the engine. There are special heat-resistant capes for the "blanket".

The traditional Russian "Cardboard in front of the radiator" is worse than the blinds - the heat will go out through the slots very willingly and the effect of the "blanket" will not be so significant.

Experience shows that with the shutters in the parking lot, the internal combustion engine cools down more than three times slower. In the presence of wind, the difference is even more significant. That is, during the night in cold weather, the automatic winding will be three times less.

Blinds should be automatic, so as not to engage in their opening and closing. But this is a slightly different topic, and with our frosts for 7 months a year we will focus on a simple radiator seal.

Initially, you need to solve the issue of keeping the heat of the battery and the most suitable and proven option for years - a thermal case for a battery with automatic temperature maintenance (http://thermocase.ru/). Who organizes it depends on his means and assault.

Sorry for the plagiarism, but once I found it in the public domain from one motorist and also did this in addition to the thermal case for the battery - like the elephant, which is what I wish for you:

And so let's start: Insulation of the engine compartment is a complex thing.

It is necessary to understand the ways of heat escape, to figure out whether it is enough to cut off these paths of simple actions, such as an auto blanket or a piece of foam-foam felt. A very good option is to measure the result obtained with a thermal imager and confirm with your own feelings.

Of course, not everyone does this or may ask the head of the section Mikhalev from the MP "GKH" to do this, but you can see the result of this approach on the example of someone else's car.

The photo can be seen at: http://www.anadyr.org/posts/kak-zavo...eresuuschemsya

Additionally, you can put blinds on the radiator grille, which in some modes simply must be open, and in some modes, on the contrary, in the parking lot - the tighter it is closed, the slower the car cools down. Window blinds will not work, but self-made from tin which cover heating pipes, each covered with fabric just right + a cable to the salon from the throttle valve from UAZ from the Auto Parts store and a spring from an old clamshell.

Of course, such a perversion will seem superfluous to many, and Webasta for 50 thousand rubles is much easier, but not everyone's monthly salary allows it, but someone just likes to dig in the car ...

Good luck with Perversions.

Forgot about the mistakes:

1. To light a cigarette from a working car - the batteries must differ by at least 10 Amperes and not in your direction.

2. Battery from a working car to yours - like I'll start it up and give it back quickly with removal with a working internal combustion engine - And the brains are sooo expensive and if your car is released and operated a little (from 2006 and up to 50,000 km) it can and will withstand or vice versa, he is so many years old that then the manufacturer thought about the reliability of a foreign car, and not about profit (up to 96 years old) - good luck, but if you are not sure - the brains even for the most battered TAZ cost from 5,000 rubles + delivery + what is not in Anadyr - setting ....

Lighting rules:

1. Connect without confusing the terminals.

2. Start the internal combustion engine of the working car.

3. A working car must run for at least 5 minutes to tune its brains (does not apply to basins) for an increased charging current.

4. Turn on and off for a minute the low beam of the revived car.

5. Carry out a test run (batteries on both cars are connected as standard). Strong landing of the work of the internal combustion engine of a working car and not starting the reanimated car - wait 10-15 minutes.

6. We repeat everything from item 1.

Emergency - turn off the negative terminal of the battery of the reanimated car (at the risk and risk of burning your own brains and the benefactor if it is not a TAZ, which is also not an option), we fix the launcher crabs and start up from the working internal combustion engine at a speed of the latter of at least 2000. The plant is guaranteed if everything else is normal. ...

If the battery is still alive and the first launch without an intermediary is not successful and you are not afraid to disassemble part of the car:

1. We go home for the most alcohol-containing adicolon (eau de toilette will not work - better Chypre Deda)

2. Disassemble the air duct from the air filter.

4. Sprinkle the cologne and quickly close it - START - for all 10 seconds and the cologne should be the temperature of the body under the arm.

Hooray we are in the ranks.

If not, wait for warming. Boil the Tea - by pouring on the intake manifold, well, and the rest of the perversions of the type, but let's boil the oil in the crankcase ...

Gee Gee: This often ends the ordeal of many TAZ producers (these lie under the TAZ, not because it often breaks down, but because the sound insulation is not in the doo-duo and any problems are immediately heard in the cabin, which cannot be said about foreign cars, it will not fall off there yet and you will not see your own wheel overtaking you on the track, you will not remember the wheel bearing) and the owners of front-wheel drive cars, which cannot be said about the full or plug-in drive.

You are happily sitting in a warmed-up car, your wife is on the left, your mother-in-law and your son are behind, "Dreaming of not being late for school," and the car either stalled when starting off or drives as if the mother-in-law has grown to the size of an elephant ...

Remember the viscose clutch or the rear axle. The latter just need to warm up the bridge with a burner, or better not relying on a kind uncle, who supposedly replaced all the oils in Japan, nevertheless, to conduct an audit of the bridge in the summer. First - I never found the answer while I had a Nissan Sanka, until I ruined the viscous coupling in one winter by breaking off with a sharp start and removed the cardan with all the insides of the bridge and ........ I didn't get a type of front-wheel drive Nissan. May you not be honored with such -42 degrees of grace in the morning.
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