Evil frosts affect all living things and not only. Car owners know firsthand how difficult it is sometimes to start their "swallow" at subzero temperatures. Numerous attempts at the traditional start of even the most trouble-free engine often end in failure and complete discharge of the battery.
To eliminate such consequences, you need to know a few simple secrets and tricks of how to properly start a car in frost.
Why is it difficult to start a car in winter
To understand the specifics of starting a motor in a cold season, you need to understand the main reasons that complicate this process. Most often, difficulties arise due to such phenomena:
- freezing of the battery;
- increased viscosity of lubricants;
- condensation in fuel systems;
- oxide wiring;
- problems with the coolant.
Battery chemical cells lose their activity at subzero temperatures. Therefore, the lower the thermometer reading, the slower all lead-acid reactions occur.
At an air temperature of -18 ° -20 ° C, the actual return is about 40% of the entire resource. And the performance of a "dead" battery in severe frosts is generally reduced to a minimum. Therefore, at night it is better to bring the battery into a room with freezing temperatures.
Video - how to start a frozen car ("Main road"):
In lubricants at subzero temperatures, viscosity increases markedly, which increases the resistance to rotation of the crankshaft and other mechanisms. Consequently, at the starting moment, the load on a barely "live", frozen battery greatly increases, as a result of which it quickly sits down. The use of winter oil will significantly reduce the resistance of the rotating mechanisms, thereby increasing the performance of the starter.
Another serious problem can be the formation of condensation in the nodes of the fuel system. Water droplets contained in gasoline or diesel fuel, when frozen, create plugs that prevent the normal flow of fuel into the combustion chambers. This phenomenon can be prevented by using winter fuel and special additives to it. It is advisable to refuel only at proven gas stations.
Video - what devices help to start the car in frost without problems:
Oxide of terminals and contacts most often occurs with frequent temperature changes. When the engine is turned off, the wires take on the ambient temperature, and during the operation of the vehicle they heat up. This leads to oxidation and loss of contact strength, which can also affect normal start-up.
To prevent such a situation, it is necessary to periodically clean the terminals with a rounded file, and perform all fasteners with high quality.
Video - possible problems after starting the car incorrectly in winter:
The coolant has an operating temperature limit, upon overcoming which it can freeze. Rotation of the starter in such cases can lead to breakage of the pump blades and failure of the cooling system.
The operation of a car with such a breakdown becomes unacceptable. To avoid such consequences, the technical characteristics of the fluid used must correspond to the climatic characteristics of the region.
How to properly start the car in frost
Video on how to properly start a car in frost:
You can achieve your goal as quickly as possible by adhering to a certain sequence of performing all actions.
- If the battery has been outside for a long time, then before starting the engine, it is necessary to turn on all electrical equipment of the vehicle for a few seconds (high beam, stove, alarm, etc.). A sharp load on the battery will force all its elements to "wake up" and begin to interact.
- Several presses of the gas pedal should ensure the supply of fuel to the cylinders. In machines equipped with manual suction, you can partially or completely close the damper by pulling the handle towards you.
- Start the car in neutral with the clutch depressed. This will save energy for turning the shafts and gears of the transmission.
- All attempts to start the engine should be short (3-5 seconds) with half-minute breaks. Prolonged rotation of the starter can quickly drain the battery, flood, etc.
- When the goal is reached, the engine should be warmed up at medium speed. Release the clutch pedal smoothly after 15-20 seconds.
Correct diesel start
The main problem with diesel engines is fuel freezing. Adding kerosene to the fuel at a rate of 1: 5 will solve this issue. And you can simplify starting a diesel engine by adhering to the following algorithm of actions:
- Installing the key in the penultimate position is necessary to warm up the glow plugs. Performing this procedure three to four times will wake up the battery.
- The suction (if any) should be fully set to "minimum".
- After squeezing out the clutch, you can start turning the starter. Its rotation time for a diesel engine is approximately 10 seconds. And in cases when the car shows signs of "life" it is best to turn the starter to the bitter end.
- It is necessary to ensure the fuel supply by smoothly pressing the gas pedal. It is important not to overdo it here, since cold diesel fuel is poorly sprayed and can pour into the combustion chamber with a jet, which is very undesirable.
- If the engine starts, it should be warmed up at 1500 rpm. Keep the clutch pedal depressed for about half a minute. If you release it immediately, then there is a risk of stalling.
Video about starting a diesel engine in frost:
The current consumption at the starting torque of a diesel unit is one and a half to two times higher than that of a carburetor unit, therefore it can be started only if the battery is well charged.
Features of injection engines
It is necessary to start such cars using the same method as carburetor ones. A distinctive feature is that the injector initially requires three times the ignition on / off. This procedure will allow the fuel pump to fill the fuel line as much as possible. In this case, you should use the gas pedal very sparingly.
Video - how to start a car in severe frost:
If the car flatly refuses to start, then with the help of a medical syringe, you need to inject one cube of ether into the rubber band of the air pipe. It is necessary to pierce the hole as close as possible to the throttle assembly.
Important! You should resort to this method only in cases of extreme necessity, since an overdose of ether is fraught with serious breakdowns.
How to start a car with automatic transmission
The main factor influencing the technology of starting the engine at subzero temperatures is not the type of gearbox, but the type of fuel consumed. To start cars equipped with automatic transmissions, you need to be guided by the rules suitable for a particular type of motor (carburetor, diesel or injector).
The only feature of cars with automatic transmission is that they do not have a clutch pedal, so you do not need to squeeze anything extra. In addition, in cases of unsuccessful attempts, a vehicle with a manual transmission can be tried to start from a pusher. Cars do not lend themselves to this method.
What to do if the battery runs out
If the battery charge was not enough to rotate the flywheel, you can try to start the car by towing or using the crank, or use the battery energy of a nearby vehicle - "" (you will need special starting wires).
If there is no urgent need to leave, you can try:
- The battery must be brought into a warm room and allowed to “thaw out”. It is highly undesirable to use heating devices (hair dryers, heaters, etc.) to speed up the process.
- After acclimatization of the battery, you need to unscrew the top covers of the cans and check the presence of electrolyte in them. If its level turns out to be low, then it is necessary to add distilled water to the jars. Using an aerometer and other devices, check and correct the density of the electrolyte.
- Charge the battery for several hours.
Attention! When servicing the battery, a set of safety measures must be strictly observed, and all procedures must be carried out in a certain sequence.
A number of preventive actions and timely vehicle maintenance will help to simplify engine start when the thermometer is negative.
- or spark plugs;
- replacement of filters for fuel and oil systems;
- cleaning the contacts of the ignition system;
- drain;
- check the level and condition of the coolant;
- close the curtains.
Important! It is unsafe to warm up the engine and fuel system components using open sources of fire. It is also not worth pouring boiling water over the motor, since in case of severe frost, the metal may burst, and microcracks may form in the block. Use only room temperature water for heating.
Long-term parking of the car in winter requires preliminary preparation. This allows you to eliminate difficulties, problems with the subsequent start.
If the preparatory procedures have not been carried out, the question arises - how to start the car after a long downtime in winter.
The space under the hood is examined, damage and leaks are excluded. Attention is required by the battery, the level of working fluids, the pressure in the tires.
If the car is left outside in winter, the need for periodic warming up is determined by the duration of the idle time:
- for several weeks, even at low temperatures, no problems appear - it is enough to remove the battery in advance and leave it warm;
- longer parking, may require starting every 2-3 months to ensure the engine is in good working order; it is recommended to take care of charging the battery, to ensure the movement of the car to study the brake system and other components.
With long interruptions in operation, the best solution is preservation, which excludes the development of malfunctions. In other cases, the owners often have a question - whether it is necessary to start the car in winter.
Several factors that determine the answer require attention here:
- A cold start is harmful to the motor, which is forced to operate in harsh conditions. The oil thickens strongly and loses its ability to lubricate and protect the elements. In such conditions, one start wears out the unit, like 150-200,000 km of run.
- When the engine warms up, without further movement, the rest of the parts lose their functionality - brake, chassis, clutch.
Therefore, when starting the car, it is recommended to drive it.
If you cannot start the car, you can use starting device!
If the car has been parked for a long time, its technical serviceability is checked before starting. The battery requires attention. Need to pre-charge or install a new drive. If the car is technically sound, there are other options for how to start the car if the battery runs out in winter.
Different methods are used:
- Towing is an effective method for models with manual transmission. With the help of a serviceable car, the car accelerates to 40 km per hour. The clutch is squeezed out, the 2nd gear is engaged, the clutch is released. Usually it starts the first time.
- Reel is an equally effective solution when there is no other towing vehicle. Several people, or the driver from the descent, accelerates the car from the manual transmission to 20 km per hour. Manipulations are carried out as in towing.
- Lighting is a common technique that allows you to start a car from the battery of another car. The order of actions is required.
- Battery chargers are an expensive but effective solution to get you started.
Here you need to pay attention to how to properly start the car in winter, if the driver finds himself in a similar situation. The tugboat and roll-off cannot be used, otherwise the automatic transmission will be seriously damaged.
Preparing for winter or parking allows you to avoid problems with the drive.
Main points of care:
- cleaning the terminals;
- keeping the battery clean;
- timely charging;
- maintenance of serviceability, integrity of wires.
- maintaining the electrolyte level if a serviced system is used.
Before long storage, the drive is removed or disconnected from the terminals to prevent deep discharge.
Preliminary preparation for the normal start of the machine includes certain manipulations.
- replacement of spark plugs with a mileage of 15,000;
- fill in new fuel if the car has been parked for a long time, as the fuel deteriorates;
- make sure the fuel pump is working properly;
- check the coolant, which must correspond to the current temperature regime;
- check the oil in the engine, its level;
- the brake system sometimes needs to change the working fluid.
It is recommended to change filters - fuel, air. This is important if the question arises of how to start the car in winter carburetor. So, the car will "breathe" better. It is worth moving the air intake flap to the hot position. Then warm air masses will be supplied to the carburetor.
The start process includes several stages:
- Warming up the battery is the first step, regardless of the transmission. It is necessary for the battery to deliver the required charge. To do this, the high beam is switched on for a few seconds.
- Further, it is advisable to squeeze the clutch in order to eliminate additional load on the crankshaft at the start. This option is for manual transmission.
- It is possible to purge the cylinders by pressing the gas once.
- In the case of an automatic transmission, starting begins with ignition, the operation of the starter, which scrolls the crankshaft. It is impossible to reduce the load.
- It must be remembered that the starter cannot be cranked for a long time. Attempts of 5-10 seconds are allowed with a break of 15-20 seconds.
- If no breakdowns occur during parking, the car should start after 2-3 times.
- For a manual transmission, after starting, you need to warm up the engine to 20 degrees and only then gently release the clutch. If the car jerks, the clutch is squeezed out again.
Gas equipment is installed frequently. Using it, you need to take into account the subtleties of operation. The cold period requires attention. Not knowing how to start the car on gas in winter, it is easy to damage an unheated system.
Pressurized cold gas is supplied to the reducer. This is accompanied by freezing of the structure, rubberized diaphragms harden, shrink, crack. As a result, leaks occur. In winter, it is important to start the car on fuel and then switch to gas.
The advantages of an injection reducer are automatic temperature control. Accordingly, starting on gas is possible only at a gearbox temperature of 40 degrees or more.
Operation of diesel vehicles after parking
Diesel car owners should also know how to start a diesel car in winter.
The main condition is:
- maintaining the health of the nodes;
- use of winter fuel;
- selection of special additives to prevent “gelation”.
If the car has stood on the street for a long time in winter, you should use the recommendations:
- The hood is opened, the air filter is dismantled.
- The ether is opening, it is worth purchasing it in advance.
- The ignition key is set to the penultimate position for warming up, the spark plug chamber warms up. The procedure is performed 3 times.
- Ether splashes into the air intake, after which you need to quickly depress the clutch and start the starter. It can spin for about 5 seconds while operating the gas pedal.
After such manipulations, the diesel car should start, the clutch should not be released for another 30 seconds.
In severe frost, the engine may not start for the following commonplace reasons:1. Bad oil. - I pour oil TOKAY, Japan, in Vladik for 4 liters 1800 with delivery to Anadyr 2300, 0W30, zero problems.
2. Weak battery - It's simple. There are no bad batteries, there is not correct operation and a malfunction of the recharging system (IMHO).
3. Defective ignition system.
4. Bad gasoline. - This does not threaten us - he is always bad.
5. Other not trivial reasons. Here is the algorithm with which you can start the car in frost:
1. the matter is in the oil The consistency of the oil can be checked on the dipstick. You don't need to be a great specialist to see that the oil thickens too much in the cold. Summer, low-quality or dirty oil that has not been changed for a long time can thicken too much. Do not be lazy to check the oil before sinning on the battery. If you are convinced that the oil in the crankcase is bad, and there are big problems with the replacement, there is a way to survive severe frosts. Consider it an emergency emergency. .. With normal oil, the reason for poor shaft rotation ..
2. the case is in the battery. It can be discharged or worn out. Before the onset of frost, it is recommended to put the battery on charge for at least 6 - 7 hours. If in the morning it does not pull again, you will have to buy another one, even if this one is completely new. Batteries with ceramic plates (eg Warta) can die after only a few deep (full) discharges. Battery performance is highly dependent on its temperature. If the battery worked normally in the summer, then warming it up even without recharging (you can bring it home at night, if urgent, you can warm it up in a basin of warm water), you will achieve summer scrolling efficiency while it is warm. … If the shaft spins well and there is at least one cotton….
3. the reason is in the ignition system. The first thing to do is replace the candles with new ones or ignite them. Place on a metal support on a gas stove and heat for 30-40 minutes. As a result, all plaque burns off them, the insulators turn white. If they remain red, the candles should be cleaned by soaking in a rust converter for 1-2 days. Pay attention to the required electrode gap. You can even reduce it a little. For example, for 1.1 to 1.0mm .. Having unscrewed one candle, you can make assumptions about the problem of starting: -If there is black (or very dark) deposits on the candle, the fuel mixture is excessively rich. -If there is no dark carbon deposit on the removed plug, it is a poor fuel mixture or no fuel. BB wires. The ends that are in the coil usually do not lose lubrication. And those ends that are put on candles need to be lubricated with silicone grease or simply sprayed with VDshka. ... failure when starting in cold weather ... ..
4. from bad gasoline. THE MOST COMMON CAUSE! Our gasoline is most often diluted in two ways - either with gasoline with a lower octane number (cheaper), or simply with water. The mixture just doesn't burn. Moreover, it is difficult to immediately grasp why this motor stubbornly refuses to work - the spark is excellent, gasoline is supplied, the shaft is spinning, and…. do not start. In this case, the way out is to replace gasoline with a known good one or topping up a good one is 2 times more than the remains in the tank. … .. about powerful starting transformers capable of spinning a frozen shaft of any engine. You can use them for a very limited time. If there are no "pops" at all - do not "drive" the starter in vain - burn it, but look for the cause of the problem. Five minutes of attempts to start without "claps" with powerful scrolling and "dry" friction is equivalent in wear to a run of 500 km.
5. Other reasons: insufficient fuel pressure in the system, clogged injectors, frozen wet air filter, etc ... .. any minor imperfections in the cold can become a big problem.
6. faulty starter. Bendix either does not engage with the flywheel or breaks off from it. Here it is necessary to put the car in a warm place and warm it up, or put a fan heater under the hood and warm up the starter. It is worth going over - definitely.
7. Special attention to contacts. Oxidized, loose contacts significantly reduce the likelihood of start-up. For example, the contacts of the battery, starter, generator, explosive wires, coils - ESPECIALLY, sensors, etc ... In the basins, as a rule, the PHAZ and Oxygen sensor with Bosch firmware, with January the oxygen sensor is not to blame.
It happens that the lambda probe (oxygen content sensor in the exhaust gases) and MAF (MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR) are blamed for the problems of cold start of foreign cars. This is mistake. They come into operation only after warming up to operating temperature. But the air temperature sensor, in cold weather, gives the brain a fundamental signal about the desired composition of the mixture. Therefore, if the mixture is very rich, you can try to turn it off or warm it in your hands - it also touches the basins.
Before starting, it is recommended to turn on the ignition several times without starting the engine and let the fuel pump run, which creates the required pressure in the system. -if the battery is good and spent the night in the cold, you can turn on the dipped beam for a minute and warm it up a little. -It is also recommended to depress the clutch pedal, making it easier for the starter to work.
If the engine does not start on the second try, you need to:
1. Squeeze the traction pedal, squeeze the accelerator (gas) pedal to the floor.
2. The key is in the ignition for the starter and 10-15 sec. turn with a starter (the lower part of the spark plugs, filled with fuel, becomes dry). (This is not always understood by a machine whose throttle cable is not correctly adjusted - only applies to foreign cars.)
3. Repeat starting the engine. If it was not possible to start 2-3 times, then stop trying and look for the reason. It makes no sense to drive the starter and plant the battery. -No need to turn the crankshaft more than 3-4-5 turns. A break of 30sec-1min is required between attempts. so that the fuel injected into the cylinders evaporates. Otherwise, it floods the candles. There is no need to touch the gas - the brains do not understand this situation (this does not apply to the basins). If none of the above gives a result, there is only one way out. We need to drive the car into a warm box. And after prolonged warming up, continue the start-up attempts - repeat everything anew with the basins - they will start unambiguously with a live battery without a garage.
About engine and battery insulation.
Here, everyone is as good as they can, but I will not list what I saw, but simply describe what I tried.
Insulation is definitely needed. The question is what and how to insulate. Let's look at an analogy first.
If warm air is driven into a warm glass and turned over, then it will be able to cool only due to the heat transfer of the walls, and leakage-blowing will be insignificant. Cool down conditionally in an hour ...
If this glass is turned over, everything will blow out, and heat transfer can be neglected. And it won't stay hot for a minute ...
If the engine compartment is without slots, including the radiator grill, it will be BLINDLY blocked by closed shutters, there will be nowhere for heat to flow away, except through heat transfer through the walls, just like from an inverted glass.
How to make such a glass?
We have one side hole - the front grille. It is necessary to close it so that the heat cannot go sideways. These are the blinds. They must be installed so that air under the hood cannot enter bypassing them. Then, in the closed state, they will deafly close the heat leak to the side.
The leakage remains downward, but it is much less lateral.
After installing the blinds, it is necessary to eliminate the bonnet connection gaps. After that, it is better to glue the iron in a circle with a porous material and additionally apply a "blanket" to the engine. There are special heat-resistant capes for the "blanket".
The traditional Russian "Cardboard in front of the radiator" is worse than the blinds - the heat will go out through the slots very willingly and the effect of the "blanket" will not be so significant.
Experience shows that with the shutters in the parking lot, the internal combustion engine cools down more than three times slower. In the presence of wind, the difference is even more significant. That is, during the night in cold weather, the automatic winding will be three times less.
Blinds should be automatic, so as not to engage in their opening and closing. But this is a slightly different topic, and with our frosts for 7 months a year we will focus on a simple radiator seal.
Initially, you need to solve the issue of keeping the heat of the battery and the most suitable and proven option for years - a thermal case for a battery with automatic temperature maintenance (http://thermocase.ru/). Who organizes it depends on his means and assault.
Sorry for the plagiarism, but once I found it in the public domain from one motorist and also did this in addition to the thermal case for the battery - like the elephant, which is what I wish for you:
And so let's start: Insulation of the engine compartment is a complex thing.
It is necessary to understand the ways of heat escape, to figure out whether it is enough to cut off these paths of simple actions, such as an auto blanket or a piece of foam-foam felt. A very good option is to measure the result obtained with a thermal imager and confirm with your own feelings.
Of course, not everyone does this or may ask the head of the section Mikhalev from the MP "GKH" to do this, but you can see the result of this approach on the example of someone else's car.
The photo can be seen at: http://www.anadyr.org/posts/kak-zavo...eresuuschemsya
Additionally, you can put blinds on the radiator grille, which in some modes simply must be open, and in some modes, on the contrary, in the parking lot - the tighter it is closed, the slower the car cools down. Window blinds will not work, but self-made from tin which cover heating pipes, each covered with fabric just right + a cable to the salon from the throttle valve from UAZ from the Auto Parts store and a spring from an old clamshell.
Of course, such a perversion will seem superfluous to many, and Webasta for 50 thousand rubles is much easier, but not everyone's monthly salary allows it, but someone just likes to dig in the car ...
Good luck with Perversions.
Forgot about the mistakes:
1. To light a cigarette from a working car - the batteries must differ by at least 10 Amperes and not in your direction.
2. Battery from a working car to yours - like I'll start it up and give it back quickly with removal with a working internal combustion engine - And the brains are sooo expensive and if your car is released and operated a little (from 2006 and up to 50,000 km) it can and will withstand or vice versa, he is so many years old that then the manufacturer thought about the reliability of a foreign car, and not about profit (up to 96 years old) - good luck, but if you are not sure - the brains even for the most battered TAZ cost from 5,000 rubles + delivery + what is not in Anadyr - setting ....
Lighting rules:
1. Connect without confusing the terminals.
2. Start the internal combustion engine of the working car.
3. A working car must run for at least 5 minutes to tune its brains (does not apply to basins) for an increased charging current.
4. Turn on and off for a minute the low beam of the revived car.
5. Carry out a test run (batteries on both cars are connected as standard). Strong landing of the work of the internal combustion engine of a working car and not starting the reanimated car - wait 10-15 minutes.
6. We repeat everything from item 1.
Emergency - turn off the negative terminal of the battery of the reanimated car (at the risk and risk of burning your own brains and the benefactor if it is not a TAZ, which is also not an option), we fix the launcher crabs and start up from the working internal combustion engine at a speed of the latter of at least 2000. The plant is guaranteed if everything else is normal. ...
If the battery is still alive and the first launch without an intermediary is not successful and you are not afraid to disassemble part of the car:
1. We go home for the most alcohol-containing adicolon (eau de toilette will not work - better Chypre Deda)
2. Disassemble the air duct from the air filter.
4. Sprinkle the cologne and quickly close it - START - for all 10 seconds and the cologne should be the temperature of the body under the arm.
Hooray we are in the ranks.
If not, wait for warming. Boil the Tea - by pouring on the intake manifold, well, and the rest of the perversions of the type, but let's boil the oil in the crankcase ...
Gee Gee: This often ends the ordeal of many TAZ producers (these lie under the TAZ, not because it often breaks down, but because the sound insulation is not in the doo-duo and any problems are immediately heard in the cabin, which cannot be said about foreign cars, it will not fall off there yet and you will not see your own wheel overtaking you on the track, you will not remember the wheel bearing) and the owners of front-wheel drive cars, which cannot be said about the full or plug-in drive.
You are happily sitting in a warmed-up car, your wife is on the left, your mother-in-law and your son are behind, "Dreaming of not being late for school," and the car either stalled when starting off or drives as if the mother-in-law has grown to the size of an elephant ...
Remember the viscose clutch or the rear axle. The latter just need to warm up the bridge with a burner, or better not relying on a kind uncle, who supposedly replaced all the oils in Japan, nevertheless, to conduct an audit of the bridge in the summer. First - I never found the answer while I had a Nissan Sanka, until I ruined the viscous coupling in one winter by breaking off with a sharp start and removed the cardan with all the insides of the bridge and ........ I didn't get a type of front-wheel drive Nissan. May you not be honored with such -42 degrees of grace in the morning.
__________________
The winter period has always been difficult for car owners. Significant troubles are caused by a difficult road situation, often changing and quite dangerous. In addition, the car itself creates problems. Low temperatures do not contribute to easy starting and stable operation of both the engine and other components of the car.
All technical fluids and lubricants freeze from low temperatures and cease to be fluid, see what kind of oil you can fill in the winter... Because of this, the resistance to rotation in the units and mechanisms increases significantly and the starter is not only very difficult to spin, but even to crank the crankshaft. And if we also add wear and tear, violation of system adjustments, the exhausted resource of some elements, then the chances of starting the power plant at low temperatures are greatly reduced. Still, winter is not a reason to put your car in the garage until spring. With the right actions and following certain recommendations, starting the motor is quite possible.
And yet, a car is a convenient and comfortable means of transportation, so many cannot refuse to operate a car even in severe frosts.
Next, consider how to start a VAZ in winter. These cars were chosen because they are one of the most common, and also because of the power system - some of them are equipped with a carburetor system, but there are also injection versions. That is, these cars use the two most common power systems in our country.
Preparing a car for the winter period
So, the preparation of the car begins even before the cold weather begins. Small preparatory work will make it easier to start the power plant of this car at low temperatures.
The first thing to take care of is the battery. Until frost has come, you need to carry out the whole range of maintenance work with it - check the density of the electrolyte, if necessary, bring it to the desired level. Also charge it fully.
If the motor little has practically exhausted its resource, then you should not wait for this to happen, but also replace it with a warm one. The use of mineral oil is strongly discouraged. If in summer it is still suitable for use, then in winter this little can lead to engine breakdown. At low temperatures, it thickens strongly and when the engine starts, there is a possibility that the thick little will simply squeeze out the crankshaft oil seals.
We'll have to work on the power supply system as well. No matter which of the systems is used at the VAZ, it will be necessary to flush the system, replace the fuel and air filters.
It will not be superfluous to check the valve adjustment and the ignition system. The spark plugs should be carefully inspected and cleaned, and the gap adjusted on them. It will not be superfluous to purchase a new set of candles "in reserve", and they must be constantly in the car.
The cooling system of the car is also worth looking at. If it is filled with "Tosol", which has been used for several years, then it is better to replace it with a new one.
You can, of course, purchase a pre-heater for a car, but its cost is significant and not everyone can afford it, so we will do without them.
Some craftsmen "manage" to install TENA, operating from the 220 network, in a pallet with oil. The idea is good, but only if it is possible to put the car next to the house in order to stretch the wiring.
You can also equip the car with a system that will automatically start the engine at regular intervals to warm up. But it is better not to rely on such a system. Firstly, it will start the engine and keep it idling, which will not be enough to recharge the battery and, in the end, the system will simply plant it. Secondly, such a system is not suitable for a carburetor car.
Starting the engine with a carburetor system
Consider how to start a VAZ-2101, 2106, 2104, 2109 in severe frost (in general, carburetor models) with all the nuances and "pitfalls" that may appear during the start-up process.
Good condition of the battery is essential for a successful start-up. Therefore, if it is assumed that there will be significant frost at night, and the car will be needed in the morning, then it is better to remove the battery from the car and take it to a heated room. If this is not possible, then at least remove the "negative" terminal from it at night, this will exclude the discharge of the battery.
- Reinstall the battery and connect it to the vehicle electrical system. First, you need to make sure that all consumers are turned off. Before starting the motor and reaching stable operation, it is not recommended to turn on any consumers at all;
- If the battery remained in the car for the night, then before turning on the starter, it must be "overclocked". To do this, you need to "blink" the high beam several times; (the created load will lead to the occurrence of reactions in the battery due to which the internal resistance will decrease, and the starting currents will be higher. We also turn off all third-party consumers;)
- Then squeeze the clutch and switch gears, this will slightly "accelerate" the oil in the box, in the future it will not load the engine so much;
- Press the accelerator pedal 1-2 times to inject gasoline into the intake manifold;
- Carburetor cars are equipped with a choke (manual throttle control), which cuts off the air supply to the carburetor, making the mixture richer. Therefore, before starting, the suction must be completely pulled out;
- Immediately before turning on the starter, depress the clutch and hold it in this position. The gearbox disconnected from the engine will not create additional force when starting;
- After that, start the launch directly. But since the starter consumes a significant amount of energy, then its operation should not be long. Each attempt to start the engine must be accompanied by no more than 30 seconds of starter operation;
- Even if flashes appeared during the starting process and the engine slowly began to seize, but the starter was already running for 30 seconds, it is better to interrupt the start;
- In order for the battery to restore its charge after 30 seconds of starter operation, it will take at least two minutes between attempts;
- If during the starting process the engine does not show any signs of "life" at all, then you can press the gas pedal a couple of times to increase the supply of gasoline to the cylinders. But do not abuse it, otherwise the candles will flood;
- If at the beginning of the attempts there were flashes in the cylinders, but then disappeared, it means that the candles were flooded and they need to be replaced with pre-prepared ones, and then start again. But it is not worth it to "drive" the battery for too long, bringing it to full discharge. After 4-5 start attempts, it is better to stop.
- You can, of course, heat the oil pan to make it less viscous. But the old "old-fashioned" method of heating with a blowtorch is better not to use, and generally not to use an open flame for this. You can try to warm up the pallet with heating elements, but you need to use them very carefully;
- If it is possible to start the engine, you should not immediately increase the speed by pressing the accelerator. Until the engine reaches a stable speed, the impact on the gas pedal can lead to overflow of gasoline and engine stop;
- Only after the engine has gained speed, and they will be increased with an extended suction, release the clutch pedal, but not abruptly, but smoothly, so that the box does not stop the engine with its resistance;
If it was not possible to start the engine on the third attempt, then the start should be stopped, since there is a high probability that the candles are flooded and the cylinders need to be purged.
Purging is very simple: We unscrew the candles and wipe them dry with a rag. If there is an additional set of candles, then you can put it instead of the filled ones. At the same time, unscrewing the candles, air is launched into the cylinders, which ensures drying. After cleaning or replacing the candles, we try to start;
Another important nuance. If we managed to start the power plant, do not rush to release the clutch pedal. It is necessary to give time for the engine to stabilize the speed at least a little, and only after that we release the clutch. And we do it smoothly, since the transmission with solidified lubricant will create a fairly strong load on the motor. Abruptly releasing the clutch can kill the engine and no one can guarantee that the battery will be able to start it again.
It will be possible to turn on the lighting and heating devices only after a couple of minutes of stable operation of the motor. The suction will need to be pushed in as the engine warms up. Ultimately, the suction should be retracted completely, and the engine should idle stably;
Note that these are general recommendations for starting the engine in 30-degree frost. But here it is worth noting that each car, and depending on its technical condition and features, has its own "recipe" for a successful launch. For example, in some cars, the engine can only be started by covering the suction by 2/3 and no more, in others - only with a fully closed damper and half depressed the gas pedal. And these nuances can be very different, sometimes even ridiculous, but without them the car cannot be started. The driver learns all these features already during operation, after several successful starts of the power plant in severe frosts.
Launch of VAZ injection models in severe frost
Let's move on to injection versions. For these cars, the driver's action algorithm is somewhat different for starting the engine, although at some points it overlaps with the carburetor versions.
So, let's look at how to start a VAZ-2107,21099, 2110.2112, 2114, 2115, Kalina, Granta injector in winter in severe frost:
- We "warm up" the battery. We turn off all third-party electricity consumers;
- We turn on the ignition and give a little time for the fuel pump to pump fuel into the system, as well as for the ECU to collect all the data from the sensors;
- We squeeze the clutch and try to start the engine without touching the gas pedal at all;
- If the first attempt failed, we give time to restore the charge and try to start again;
- If the engine starts, but it works with severe interruptions (you can hear that it is troit and some cylinders are not functioning), you can slightly press the gas pedal to increase the fuel supply;
- In the case when the 3rd attempt was unsuccessful, we purge the cylinders. In injection cars, it is much easier than on carburetor ones, since they have a purge mode. It is done like this: we fully squeeze the gas pedal (all the way), while the mode we need is turned on (the ECU turns off the nozzles) and turn on the starter for 8-10 seconds. In this mode, only air will be supplied to the cylinders, which will dry the candles;
- After purging, we wait until the charge is restored and again try to start the engine;
Immediately after starting, the engine will run at increased revs. For the first couple of minutes of its operation, it is not advisable to turn on the electrical equipment, and the movement can be started only after reducing the speed to the idle level.
This is an algorithm of actions to start the car on your own. But what if, as a result of attempts, the battery is discharged and cannot turn the starter? And this is where the means prepared in advance come to the rescue - start cables and a cable.
Alternative methods
Further information on how to start a Zhiguli in severe frost in, so to speak, emergency mode. In both cases, you need a donor car, one that could start. If there is one and his driver agreed to help, then you can start trying to start.
First, let us consider how to properly start the car in frosty conditions using “lighting”. And here the sequence of actions also depends on the power system used. And one more nuance - the donor car must be well warmed up so that it can easily start from a discharged battery.
Now about how to start a Zhiguli in winter with a carburetor system:
- We adjust the donor to our car, turn off and turn off all electricity consumers.
- Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery on the patient car. If you connect two batteries together, then the discharged one will pull the charge on itself, due to which the likelihood of starting a cold motor will decrease. We also check the checkpoint ("neutral" must be installed);
- We take start cables and connect to the donor battery. At the same time, it is important not to make a "overlap". To prevent this from happening, first connect the "plus" cable to the terminals of both batteries. We connect the "minus" cable to the corresponding terminal on the donor's battery, and on the car-patient we massage it onto the body;
- We make attempts to launch. If it was not possible to start the engine 3-4 times, disconnect the wires and start the donor car for 5-7 minutes so that it recharges the battery from the generator. After that, we try to start up again. If the second run is unsuccessful, attempts can be stopped, since the reason for the unwillingness to start does not lie in the severe freezing of the motor, but in the occurrence of some kind of malfunction;
- In case of a successful start, we wait until the engine speed stabilizes at least a little, and then disconnect the cables. First, we disconnect the "plus" cable (preferably at the same time on the donor and the patient), then - the "minus" wire, and only after that we put the terminal removed at the beginning of the procedures on the battery.
Now about how to start a VAZ-2110, 2112, 2114, 2115, Kalina, Grant, Priora (injector) in severe frost by means of "lighting". In general, the algorithm of actions is the same as on the carburetor versions, but there is one significant nuance - it is impossible to disconnect the battery from the on-board network on a patient car. Therefore, we will have to hope that the donor's battery, even after part of the charge has given up to the patient's battery, will still be able to start the engine.
We start from the pusher
And finally, let's consider how to start a Zhiguli in winter "from a pusher". The winding process is simple, but its execution requires a certain skill. After all, the windows on the car are frozen, which means that visibility is reduced, and the road is usually slippery, and the towing vehicle is not at such a great distance. In general, not everything is so easy.
So, there is a cable and a driver with a car who agreed to act as a tractor. Next, we act like this:
- We agree with the driver of the tractor vehicle the route and conditional signals "Let's go" and "Stop" (they will have to be given to the driver of the towed car and it may be horn beeps or blinking of headlights);
- We adjust the vehicle to the tractor and, by means of a cable, we attach the car to it, which needs to be started;
- The driver of the towed car, before starting the movement, turns on the 3rd gear, squeezes and energizes the on-board network of the car (turns on the ignition);
- Next, we give a signal to start the movement. After the cars pick up a speed of 20-30 km / h, you can try to start and for this we release the clutch pedal. As soon as the engine starts, we squeeze the clutch again, give a signal to stop and carefully brake so as not to collide with the towing vehicle;
- If, after releasing the clutch, the wheels do not start to rotate (they just slide on the icy surface), squeeze the clutch and switch to a higher gear and release the pedal again, trying to start the car;
If, after a couple of attempts, starting the motor from the "pusher" failed, you should stop them and look for the cause of the failure (it may be some kind of malfunction or failure of some element - a sensor, candles, etc.).
The technology of starting the power plant of a car "from a pusher" is the same for carburetor and injection cars. But it can only be used with machines that have a manual transmission. It is strictly forbidden to start VAZ cars equipped with an automatic transmission with the help of a tug.
Video - how to start a Vaz in severe frost
As a rule, many drivers begin to experience certain difficulties when starting a cold car engine after a long parking period during a cold snap, that is, in winter. In some cases, the engine cannot be started either from the first, or from the second, or even from the third attempt.
The result is a completely discharged battery, which forces the owner to take off for charging, use additional starting-chargers, "light up" the car from another car, etc. At the same time, not all drivers understand that at temperatures below 15-20 degrees, the engine oil inevitably thickens, and various chemical processes slow down in the battery in the cold.
In other words, in order to achieve a confident and easy start in such conditions, you must follow certain rules, as well as prepare the car for winter. In this article, we will talk about how to make it easier to start the engine in cold weather, as well as what you need to do to make the engine easier to start in low temperatures.
Read in this article
Why does the engine start poorly in winter: the main reasons
So, often the problem looks in such a way that in the summer, the engine quickly "grabbed" after two or three revolutions. However, when trying to cold start in winter, the rotation of the starter is slowed down, the starter turns the motor "sluggishly" and cannot be started. If the engine does start, after warming up, further engine starts will be easy until the car is again put into a long overnight stay.
Usually, in such a situation, most of the problems arise precisely through the fault of the owner himself, that is, it is not a matter of technology. The main thing is to properly prepare the car for frost, as well as be able to use the available methods to facilitate starting a cold engine.
- If we talk about common mistakes of motorists, first of all, you need to pay maximum attention to gasoline engines and diesel engines. If the candles have not changed for a long time or do not work well, the elements need to be replaced.
- Also, it is necessary to fill the engine, which, on the one hand, will comply with all the tolerances and recommendations of the manufacturer of the power plant, and on the other hand, it will have a low-temperature viscosity suitable for winter.
- Still do not forget about the battery. The battery needs at least before winter. However, it is optimal, given this opportunity, not to be limited only to replenishment of the charge. It is better to carry out a comprehensive battery service if the battery is serviceable. As part of this service, the density is measured, the electrical capacity and the ability to hold a charge are assessed.
In view of the above, it becomes clear that if the engine worked properly in the summer and started normally, then we can talk about the absence of problems with the engine itself and. In this case, candles and the battery can most often fail, less often too viscous engine oil makes it difficult to start.
If the starter is faulty or the battery is out of order, in the engine, there are problems with the quality of fuel or fuel supply, there is no spark on the spark plugs, etc., then the main problem should be eliminated first, and only then use various methods to facilitate starting the internal combustion engine. In other words, the engine must initially be in good working order and well adjusted.
How to properly start a cold engine in winter
As for the general rules, some methods really help solve the problem of cold starting the engine with a greater or lesser degree of efficiency. Let's take a look at them.
- First, before turning the ignition key to the "start" position, experienced motorists recommend first turning on the high beam for 15 seconds. Such inclusion allows activating the chemical processes in the "banks" of the battery, which, as a result, will allow more efficient charging and more active rotation of the starter. In this case, before starting the ICE itself, the headlights must be turned off. Also, before starting the engine, it is not recommended to turn on any other energy consumers (heated mirrors, seats, stove, audio system, etc.)
- If the car has a manual gearbox, before starting, depress the clutch pedal and do not release it until the engine starts. Squeezing the clutch actually opens the engine and gearbox, thus the starter will not need to rotate anything other than the crankshaft. If the clutch is not squeezed out, then, together with the crankshaft, the starter also scrolls the shafts, as well as the gears in the box, which at the same time rotate in the transmission oil thickened in the frost.
Do not turn the engine with a starter for more than 10 seconds. in one attempt to start the power unit. This will help both save the starter itself and conserve battery power for subsequent starting attempts. By the way, the break should be at least 30-60 seconds between attempts. If the internal combustion engine does not start after 5 attempts, then you should not try to start the unit further, even if the battery is still turning the engine. Most likely, there is some kind of malfunction, and not just a complicated start due to a cold snap.
- If the temperatures overboard are very low (about -30), then many drivers practice starting the engine with. In a nutshell, these are special fluids for starting an internal combustion engine, which actively evaporate and are highly flammable. Engine start aerosol is sprayed into the air duct, allowing the engine to start quickly. Please note that this solution is not recommended to be used regularly, but in extreme cases, the method may well come in handy.
How to "light" a car correctly and without risks
Often, attempts to start a cold engine end with a completely discharged battery. In this case, neither clutch release nor aerosols will help, since the starter simply is not able to rotate the crankshaft normally. In such a situation, the simplest and well-known method is to decide to “light” from another car. To do this, first of all, you will need to have wires. You also need to know how to "light" the car correctly.
It is important to understand that you can "light up" a car that is fully operational. In other words, the engine, battery, electrical circuits and other equipment must be operational, and the battery itself is discharged after idle time or only partially lost its charge after a couple of attempts to unsuccessfully start the internal combustion engine.
If the battery has completely "sat down" as a result of numerous attempts to start the car engine, it smells of fuel under the hood, obvious damage to the electrical wiring is noticeable, etc., then it is forbidden to "light up" such a car! There is a risk of simply planting a "donor" battery or causing a fire or a short circuit under the hood of the car that is being lit. The electrical equipment of the donor vehicle may also be damaged.
So, it is recommended to "light" only cars that have a similar engine. The fact is that for motors that differ significantly in volume, the starting current also needs a different one. To put it simply, a small car battery may simply not start the engine of a large SUV and quickly discharge. Also, a diesel engine should not be started from a gasoline car, since than on cars with a gasoline unit.
The general process is as follows:
- It is necessary to have "cigarette lighter" wires and terminals (the so-called "crocodiles"). Also, gloves will not be superfluous. By the way, the crocodile joints must be soldered, since a simple crimp is not enough. Wiring and terminals are color coded (red "plus", black "minus")
Next, you should turn off the engine of the car, from which another vehicle is "lit up". All energy consumers are turned off in both machines. Now, using wires, connect the "+" of the discharged battery with the "plus" of the charged one (red wire). As for the "minus", the second (black) wire should be connected to the "minus" of the charged battery, after which the other side of the wire should be connected to an unpainted metal part of the car, which is "lit".
This connection is necessary for a number of reasons. If a dead battery turns out to be closed, the resistance when current is supplied to it from a working battery will be minimal. This means that the owners will have time to react in time and turn off the "crocodiles". Also, the appearance of sparks at high currents can lead to the fact that the gas that the problem battery can release when charging is very flammable.
By removing potential sparking sources further away, the risks of fire can be reduced. It is also recommended to first connect "+", and only then "minus", which will avoid the likelihood that a short circuit will occur when connecting. It is also important to ensure that the wires in the engine compartment do not touch the moving elements of the internal combustion engine and the attachment.
- Let's go further. It also happens that it is not possible to start the car using the method described above. This usually happens in cases where the battery is deeply discharged. If you try to start the engine in the usual way, both batteries will completely lose their charge.
To prevent this from happening, the engine of the car from which you need to "light" should be started. Then you should watch how the battery charging process goes and wait about 10-20 minutes. Further, without fail, the engine of the started car must be turned off. Only then can you try to start the car with a dead battery.
It is forbidden to try to start the unit while the donor vehicle is still running. Such an attempt can disable the generator of the car from which they are "lighting up". The reason is that if you turn on the starter on a car with a discharged battery, the total voltage in the electrical circuits will drop sharply, while a running generator on the donor machine will try to compensate for such a voltage drop.
If the launch was successful, the wires can be disconnected by first removing the "minus" and then the "plus". If the launch still turned out to be unsuccessful, then it is better to abandon further attempts and solve the problem with the battery. We add that there are several more different options for "lighting", but if the schemes described above did not work, you should not really hope for a positive result.
The main thing is to clearly understand that modern cars are high-tech and have a lot. In practice, the "lighting" methods that are successfully suitable for old cars can seriously damage the electronics of the new generation cars, both of the "lit" car and of the "donor".
This must be remembered, especially if another driver asked the owner to "light" the car. Also, it should always be borne in mind that after connecting the circuits, the motors on two cars can be started only one by one, but not in parallel.
What is the bottom line
As you can see, the winter period can significantly complicate the process of starting the power unit. At the same time, the engine that was prepared in advance has much more chances to start in severe frosts (low-viscosity oil is used, spark plugs are replaced, the fuel system and injectors are cleaned, the battery is in good order and fully charged, etc.).
In some cases, a "quick start" aerosol can come to the rescue, which allows you to avoid flooded candles in the event that the engine does not start the first and second times. Finally, we note that the way out of the situation is also the ability to light your car from another car.
Most importantly, you need to do everything right so as not to burn the electrical equipment in both cars. If you are not sure of your knowledge, it is better to entrust the lighting process to more experienced drivers or completely abandon this method of starting the internal combustion engine, focusing on how to replace the battery or service / charge an existing dead battery using an external charger.
Read also
What is "quick start" liquid for starting the engine, composition, application features. Aerosol "quick start" and harm to the engine, recommendations.