In this case, this is a common AXD-1WXSJ30W, with a power of 1W, a current of ~300mA and a brightness of ~100 Lumens.
In general, the purchase of these LEDs is connected with the desire to ennoble their fellow - a Chinese lamp for 2 LEDs of 36 watts. This is how it looked before the first reincarnation:
Yes, yellowed from the sun and with flies ...
Such lamps get rid of yellowing and nondescript appearance by painting the body with aluminum paint from a cylinder. This will give them the color of aluminum without gloss. Looks chic and "rich".)) 
But no ... this is still a two-LDS lamp that has set its teeth on edge ?!
OK. Let's add fifty LEDs! (other fifty diodes are used for the second lamp) 
We test "on the knee": 
Works great!
We proceed to the preparation of the lamp. We throw out the old giblets - electronic ballast and lamp sockets. It turns out that the main (middle) part of the lamp body is indeed aluminum, what is needed for cooling!
First sample: 
As planned, we need some parts made of aluminum profiles. We follow them to the castorama: 
Wow... damn expensive. There are only two sizes - one meter and two meters. The lamp has a length of about twenty meters and it is more profitable for us to purchase meter profiles. But what? W-shaped ones are damn good and look like a radiator. But the price is under 80 rubles ... In addition, you will need three pieces for each lamp ... And then we come across a wonderful I-beam 3 cm x 2 cm for a ridiculous price - 39 rubles. What is the price, why is it so ... I don’t know. 
One lamp needs a pair.
Another fitting 
We fasten them together with rivets, as the cheapest means. Drill holes for boards. 
Fixing the drivers. 
We also fasten the boards with soldered LEDs with rivets, lubricating their aluminum base this time with KPT-8 heat-conducting paste. It is much cheaper than glue, but you need a lot of it for these purposes. 
We solder and lay the wires. 
The product is ready! 
So, we got rid of the old LDS and got a modern, stylish and unique LED lamp.
The heating temperature of the aluminum profile is kept around 60 degrees, which is quite acceptable.
The power consumption turned out to be about 45 watts versus 60 for the unconverted LDS. Our LED lamp shines clearly brighter (the LEDs, by the way, were bought in white) than LDS, which remains a mystery to me, because. characteristics of LDS lamps - 2500 lumens each. That is 5000 lumens the whole light. About one-watt LEDs they write where 100-120 lumens, where 90-110 ... 50 pieces were used for the lamp, that is, it seems to be equivalent, but in fact it is 20 percent brighter.
Expenses.
1. LEDs 1W - 50 pcs ($4.2: 2) $2.1
2. diode boards - 10 pcs ($8:2) $4
3. driver - 2 pcs ($2.36 * 2) $4.72
4. al. profile - 2 pieces (39 rubles * 2) 80 rubles or about $ 1.5
Total: $12.32 for 50 watts.
That is, for 1 dollar received 4 watts of LED light. Record?
Hidden text
Look here:
- LED assembly 9 W (COB) on a ceramic substrate with a built-in driver! Just supply 220V! Lot of 10 for $28 - 90W for $28 is 3.2W for $1.
But this is more interesting - - 10 pieces of 5730 diodes on a board with a driver. Lot of 10 boards is $12.78 which is 50 watts and… drumroll… 3.91 watts per dollar!
Here (finished board) is 3.84 watts per dollar.
Well, the result of 4 watts (400 lumens) per dollar is not so easy to beat. The option with discrete diodes is maintainable and cheap.
PS: The sellers used, and worked perfectly - sent quickly and without delay. The LEDs had a marriage of up to 20%, but at the first mention, the seller offered to send (and later sent) a double amount in return for a marriage with the next order from him. So he closed the problem quickly. Unpretentious. I can recommend everyone.
Next, the necessary components were purchased.
Diodes:
XTEAWT-00-0000-000000HE1-STAR 28 pieces for 150 rub. in the amount of 4200 rubles.
XBDRED-00-0000-000000801-STAR 4 pieces for 166 rubles. in the amount of 664 rubles.
XBDROY-00-0000-000000M01-STAR 4 pieces for 106 rubles for the amount of 424 rubles.
XBDGRN-00-0000-000000D01-STAR 4 pieces for 113 rubles. in the amount of 452 rubles.
Power supply HVGC-150-700A, Mean Well in the amount of 5245 rubles.
Radiator 800mm in the amount of 1800 rubles.
Hot glue 650 rub.
Corners, glass, light-diffusing glass (4 pieces) wires, plug into a socket, about 2000 rubles.
Total approximately 15435 rubles.
As a basis, a radiator profile was chosen under the code name OH00859. The choice of a radiator is due to the fact that its efficiency is somewhat higher, and there were also some technical issues that required such a design.
The long lamp turned out to be 800mm. The length was also approved by the person for whom the lamp was assembled.
As a result of searching for aluminum corners, I could not find the size that I needed. Here I will explain, I needed such a corner, in which one side is about 5mm. (she will hold the glass) and the other 4-5cm. The edging of the lamp with such a corner allows you to leave enough space between the glass and the diodes so that in the future you can put secondary optics on the diodes. In one place they said it was necessary to wait a month for delivery; in another, they stopped buying it altogether. I had to go to Leroy Merlin and buy a plastic one.
After that, a parcel was received from the "Electronic Engineer", then you can see 11.000 rubles. in the photo, it looks very modest :)
This hot melt glue dries very quickly, in just a few minutes. In this regard, soldering immediately began.
After soldering, a test run was made.
After a trial run, the final assembly.
If you have any questions, or want to order the assembly of this or a similar lamp, please write to e-mail
Gradually, lighting devices are switching to LED lamps. This did not happen immediately, there was a protracted transitional period with the use of the so-called housekeepers - compact gas-discharge light bulbs with a built-in power supply (driver) and a standard E27 or E14 cartridge.
Such lamps are widely used today, since their cost in comparison with LED light sources is not so "biting".
With a good balance of price and economy (the difference in price with conventional incandescent lamps pays off over time due to energy savings), gas-discharge light sources have a number of disadvantages:
- The service life is lower than that of incandescent lamps.
- High frequency interference from the power supply.
- Lamps do not like frequent switching on and off.
- Gradual decrease in brightness.
- Effects on nearby surfaces: A dark spot develops over time on the surface of the ceiling (above the lamp).
- And in general, I don’t really want to have a flask with a certain amount of mercury in the house.
A great alternative is LED lights. The list of advantages is weighty: - Amazing efficiency (up to 10 times compared to incandescent lamps).
- Huge service life.
- Perfect and safe power supplies (drivers).
- Absolutely independent of the number of inclusions.
- With normal cooling, they do not lose brightness for almost the entire period of operation.
- Complete mechanical safety (even if the decorative diffuser is broken, no harmful substances will enter the room).
- The directivity of the light flux makes high demands on the design of the diffuser.
- Still, they are expensive (we are talking about quality brands, nameless mid-range products are quite affordable).
But it is precisely in this construction that the “ambush” lies.
Before us is a high-quality (at the same time relatively inexpensive) lamp with a luminous brightness of 1000 Lm (equivalent to a 100-watt incandescent lamp), and a power consumption of 13 watts. I have such LED light sources that work for many years, they shine with a pleasant warm light (temperature 2700 K), and no degradation of brightness is observed over time.
But for powerful light, serious cooling is required. Therefore, the body of this lamp for 2/3 consists of a radiator. It is plastic, does not spoil the appearance, and is quite effective. The main drawback follows from the design - the real light source is a hemisphere at the top of the lamp. This makes it difficult to select a lamp - not in every carob chandelier such a lamp will look harmonious.
There is only one way out - to buy ready-made LED lamps, the configuration of which was originally designed for specific light sources.
The key word is buy. And what to do with your favorite floor lamps, chandeliers and other lamps in the apartment?
Therefore, it was decided to design LED lamps independently.
The main criterion is cost minimization.There are two main directions in the development of LED light sources:
1. The use of low-power (up to 0.5 W) LEDs. They require a lot, you can configure any shape. A powerful radiator is not needed (they heat up a little). A significant drawback is a more painstaking assembly.
2. Use of powerful (1 W - 5 W) LED elements. Efficiency is high, labor costs are many times less. But point radiation requires the selection of a diffuser, and good radiators are needed to implement the project.
For experimental designs, I chose the first option. The most inexpensive "raw material": 5 mm LEDs with a dispersion of 120 ° in a transparent case. They are called "straw hat".
The characteristics are as follows:
- forward current = 20 mA (0.02 A)
- voltage drop across 1 diode = 3.2-3.4 volts
- color - warm white
I bought several packs 100 pcs. on aliexpress(link to purchase). It cost a little less than 1 p. a piece.
As power supplies (more precisely, current sources), I decided to use a proven circuit with a quenching (ballast) capacitor. The advantages of such a driver are extreme cheapness and minimal energy consumption. Since there is no PWM controller, or a linear current stabilizer, the excess energy does not go into the atmosphere: in this circuit there are no elements with a heat dissipating radiator.
The disadvantage is the lack of current stabilization. That is, with an unstable mains voltage, the brightness of the glow will change. I have exactly 220 (+/- 2 volts) in my outlet, so this circuit is just right.
The element base is also not expensive.
- diode bridges of the KTS405A series (you can use any diodes, even Schottky)
- film capacitors with a voltage of 630 volts (with a margin)
- 1-2 watt resistors
- electrolytic capacitors 47 mF at 400 volts (you can take a larger capacity, but this is beyond the scope of economy)
- little things like a breadboard and fuses are usually in the arsenal of any radio amateur
After carefully (on the street!) Extraction of the flask with mercury vapor, there remains an excellent blank for creativity.
The basis of the fundamentals - the calculation and principle of operation of a current driver with a quenching capacitor
A typical diagram is shown in the illustration:
How the circuit works:
Resistor R1 limits the current surge when power is applied until the circuit stabilizes (about 1 second). Value from 50 to 150 ohms. Power 2 W.Resistor R2 ensures the operation of the ballast capacitor. First, it discharges it when the power is turned off. At a minimum, so that you are not shaken by current when unscrewing the light bulb. The second task is to prevent a current surge in the case when the polarity of the charged capacitor and the first half-wave of 220 volts do not match.
Actually, the quenching capacitor C1 is the basis of the circuit. It is a kind of current filter. By selecting the capacitance, you can set any current in the circuit. For our diodes, it should not exceed 20 mA at the peak values of the mains voltage.
Next, the diode bridge works (after all, LEDs are elements with polarity).
An electrolytic capacitor C2 is needed to prevent the lamp from flickering. LEDs have no inertia when turned on and off. Therefore, the eye will see a flicker at a frequency of 50 Hz. By the way, cheap Chinese lamps sin with this. The quality of the capacitor is checked using any digital camera, even a smartphone. Looking at the burning diodes through the digital matrix, you can see blinking, indistinguishable to the human eye.
In addition, this electrolyte gives an unexpected bonus: the lamps do not turn off immediately, but with a noble slow attenuation until the capacity is discharged.
The calculation of the quenching capacitor is made according to the formula:
I = 200*C*(1.41*U network - U led)
I - received circuit current in amperes
200 is a constant (network frequency 50Hz * 4)
1.41 - constant
C - capacitance of capacitor C1 (quenching) in farads
U network - the estimated voltage of the network (ideally - 220 volts)
U led - the total voltage drop across the LEDs (in our case - 3.3 volts, multiplied by the number of LED elements)
By selecting the number of LEDs (with a known voltage drop) and the capacitance of the quenching capacitor, it is necessary to achieve the required current. It should not be higher than that specified in the characteristics of the LEDs. It is the current strength that you adjust the brightness of the glow, and inversely proportional to the life of the LEDs.
For convenience, you can create a formula in Excel.
The circuit has been tested repeatedly, the first copy was assembled almost 3 years ago, it works in a lamp in the kitchen, there were no malfunctions.
Let's move on to the practical implementation of projects. There is no point in discussing the number of LED elements and the capacitance of the capacitor in separate circuits: the projects are individual for each lamp. Calculated strictly according to the formula. The above circuit for 60 LEDs with a 68 microfarad capacitor is not just an example, but a real calculation for a current in the circuit of 15 mA (to extend the life of the lights).
LED lamp in carob chandelier
We use the gutted cartridge from the housekeeper as a case for the circuit and the supporting structure. In this project, I did not use a breadboard, I assembled the driver on a 1 mm thick PVC round. It turned out just the right size. Two capacitors - due to the selection of capacitance: the required number of microfarads was not found in one element.
A jar of yogurt was used as a housing for placing LED elements. In the design, I also used 3 mm PVC foam sheet trimmings.
After assembly, it turned out neat and even beautiful. This arrangement of the cartridge is associated with the shape of the chandelier: the horns are directed upwards, towards the ceiling.
Next, we place the LEDs: according to the scheme, 150 pcs. We pierce the plastic with an awl, labor costs: one full evening.
Looking ahead, I will say: the case material did not justify itself, it is too thin. The next lamp was made of 1 mm PVC sheet. To give shape, I calculated the sweep of the cone for the same 150 diodes.
It turned out not so elegant, but it is reliable, and it keeps its shape perfectly. The lamp is completely hidden in the chandelier's horn, so appearance is not so important.
Actually, installation.
It shines evenly, does not hit the eyes.
I did not measure lumens, it feels like it is brighter than a 40 W incandescent lamp, a little weaker than 60 W.
LED lamp in a flat ceiling lamp for the kitchen
An ideal donor for such a project. All LEDs will be located in the same plane.
We draw a template, cut out a matrix to place LED elements. With this diameter, a flat PVC sheet will deform. Therefore, I used the bottom of a plastic bucket from under construction mixtures. There is a stiffening rib along the outer contour.
Diodes are installed using the usual awl: 2 holes for marking.
Good afternoon everyone, in this article I will continue the topic of LED lamps, and most importantly powerful ones, by this we mean from 10 to 50 watts. After a long search for my LEDs, I found 34 pieces of 1 watt. Immediately the question arose: how to feed all this? A solution was found to use an electronic transformer TASHIBRA 50-60W. Our lamp consumes decently and it should start without alteration. I added a diode bridge (the diode bridge must be high-frequency or mid-frequency) and a capacitor. Yes, here's a simple trick. But I must warn you: such a PSU does not have any stabilization and protection. To prolong the life of the LEDs - you do not need to power them with 12 volts, as expected, but 10-11 V, which is quite enough and the brightness does not drop, there is a small margin for increasing the voltage in the network. We also do not bypass the issue of filters at the input, you need to put a 400 Volt 10 microfarad capacitor and wind several turns of the network wire around the ferrite ring, that's all.
All this came to me a little late and is not visible in the photo. Well, a painful topic, LED cooling. How to provide good cooling, but so that it all looks compact and without coolers. Do you know how in the fairy tale “There is a solution - you just need ...” just now? - you ask. It is necessary to reduce the supply voltage of the LED by 10-20% - that's all. Many will now say, but how will the brightness also fall? I can honestly tell you that the brightness will drop by no more than 5-10%. But you will extend the life of the LEDs, and at the same time reduce the generation of unnecessary heat.
We rewind the transformer, make a radiator from a piece of aluminum and attach the LEDs as follows: we spread a little thermal paste on the seat, after which we fix the LEDs on the radiator with epoxy. I fixed it with hot glue for testing, but this is not an option. Next, we collect everything in a "heap". After testing, it turned out that the radiator area was too small, after which I installed a small cooler, which solved all the problems.
Final testing showed that the temperature of the radiator is only 38 degrees after 4 years of operation. When comparing an ordinary incandescent lamp and a new one, the result, as they say, is on the face. Thank you all for your attention, Kalyan-Super-Boss was with you. Good luck repeating the pattern!
In any work, as well as during leisure, good light is needed. You can buy a lamp, but sometimes it is not cheap. In the store, instead of a finished lamp, you can purchase an LED strip. It is relatively inexpensive and cut into pieces of any length. If you put it in a case or fix it in another way, you get a homemade lamp with an LED strip. You can take such a lamp with you to a fishing tent. In field conditions, the LED lamp is connected to a car battery.
Scope of homemade LED lamps
Homemade LED lamps for LED strip can be used instead of the usual ones:
- illumination of the workplace when performing minor work in the workshop or garage;
- backlighting from above the aquarium (if the tape is waterproof or in a sealed case, then the lamp can be lowered into the water);
- illumination of seedlings or indoor plants in winter;
- night light or table lamp;
- illumination of switches and sockets;
- computer keyboard lighting;
- to replace fluorescent lamps.
On the Internet, you can find many other types of floor lamps and ceiling chandeliers made of LED strip with photos and videos, as well as reviews of people who collected and used such lamps.
Types and parameters of LED strips
LED strip color optionsLED strips are produced in different designs according to the type of security. They can be of different brightness and different colors, which is determined by the color temperature - from warm white (2700K) to cold (6800K), as well as colored or capable of changing their color - RGB tapes. This makes it possible to choose the type of device for specific purposes.
LED strip device
An LED strip is a flexible plastic strip with conductive strips applied to it. Two are located at the edges and are connected to them. The rest connect the LEDs and resistors to each other. They are arranged in groups - three LEDs connected in series, and a resistor that serves to limit the current flowing through them.
LED Strip Parameters The strip itself can be cut into sections that are multiples of three LEDs. In these places there are marks indicating the place of the cut and the pads to which the wires are soldered or connected using connectors.
LEDs can be coated with silicone on one or both sides. This determines the degree of protection from external influences. On the reverse side, an adhesive layer is applied to the strip, like on a double-sided tape. With it, the LEDs are attached to the base.
The most common supply voltage is DC, 12V. There are designs designed for connection to a voltage of 24V and higher, but these are not common designs.
Types of LEDs used
The LEDs and resistors in the tape are used in the SMD series, without leads. LEDs in production are used in various sizes, which determines the marking of the tape - 5050 and 3528. These numbers show the size of the LED in tenths of a millimeter
Visual difference between 5050 and 3528 
Expert opinion
Alexey Bartosh
Ask an expertThe larger the size, the higher the brightness and the current and power consumption. It also depends on the number of LEDs per meter of length.
Accordingly, the marking of the SMD 5050 tape with a density of 60 LEDs means that 60 SMD 5050 LEDs are installed per meter of length.
Controllers, power supplies for LED strips
controller and power supply Since the LED strip is designed for a constant voltage of 12V, a power supply or controller is required for connection.
Important! When you turn on the LED strip in a 220 volt network, it will instantly burn out!
Power supplies are produced in different capacities and shapes. From low-power, tablet-like chargers to powerful metal-cased designs with built-in coolers.
Power supply for LED strips Some power supplies are equipped with dimmers and remote controls. RGB ribbons require an RGB controller to control the color.
There are models with WiFi control, with color and music effects, for example, ARILUX® AL-LC01.
If there is no special block available, then you can use:
- Any transformer with an output voltage of 12V. A diode bridge and a smoothing capacitor must be connected to the output.
- The power supply of the computer, both in the computer itself and separately.
- If 3-6 LEDs are needed, then a capacitor can be used to limit the current, as well as a diode bridge and a capacitor that smooths out the glow pulsations. This scheme is used in LED lamps installed instead of incandescent lamps. The capacitance of a capacitor can be calculated using an online calculator.
- Make a faulty energy-saving lamp out of the board.
- Connect 20 pieces of LED strip in series and connect through a diode bridge and a smoothing capacitor to a 220V network.
Preparation of materials and parts
making a lamp with your own hands Before starting work, you need to determine the required number and brightness of the LED strip, as well as the power of the power supply.
First of all, you need to determine the length. For lamps used in different places you need:
- night light and illumination of switches and sockets - a segment of three LEDs;
- aquarium lighting - along the length of the wall;
- illumination of beds with seedlings - several pieces, equal in length to the length of the beds;
- computer keyboard - along the length of the keyboard;
- to replace a fluorescent lamp, several pieces are needed, the length is equal to the length of the lamp.
The brightness of the tape, the size and density of the LEDs is determined based on specific conditions.
The power of the power supply should not be less than the power of the LED lamp, and preferably 20% more. This is necessary for more reliable operation of the unit.
In addition, you will need wires, heat shrink tubing to isolate the connection point, a soldering iron with tin and rosin, or a connector for connection.
Expert opinion
Alexey Bartosh
Specialist in the repair, maintenance of electrical equipment and industrial electronics.
Ask an expertAttention! Do not solder the tape with acid! Acid fumes oxidize and destroy wires, and can also lead to a short circuit.
If the luminaire is to be used in an aquarium for indoor lighting, a transparent tube and silicone sealant will be needed to ensure the tightness of the structure.
Lamp Assembly
assembling the led lamp After developing the design of the future lamp and preparing all the tools and materials, the lamp itself is assembled.
Sometimes the entire assembly process consists of sticking tape to the base, for example, when backlighting a keyboard located on a pull-out shelf under a table.
In other cases, it is necessary to make a lamp or remake an existing one.
Features and stages of installation work
Installation and connection of a lamp from an LED strip has a number of features:
- The power supply should be located as close as possible to the LEDs. The longer the wires, the greater the voltage loss in them, which leads to losses in the brightness of the lamp.
- It is advisable to isolate the LEDs from the base if it is metal.
- When connecting the device directly from the 220V network (through a capacitor), use only a tape coated with silicone on both sides.
Carefully! There is a high voltage on such a tape, so all manipulations with it are performed in the off state.
What to do if there is no finished LED strip
If there is no ready-made LED strip, then you can make it yourself.
To do this, the required number of LEDs must be connected in series, and a current-limiting resistance must be connected to them. You can assemble such a design on a strip of getinax or textolite, where holes are drilled for mounting LEDs. Such a device can be assembled for any required voltage and number of LEDs.
