Today we will talk about such basic concepts as machine seams. Seams made on a sewing machine are called machine stitches. When sewing a product, the largest volume is occupied by machine work. Nowadays, adhesive and welding methods are widely practiced, but the thread method of joining parts, processing edges and finishing products is the most popular. The elements of a thread connection are: stitch, line and seam.
Machine seams and stitches
It is necessary to have an understanding of stitches and lines in order to study seams and use them correctly when sewing products.
Stitch- this is a completed cycle of weaving on the material of one or more threads between two needle punctures.
The stitch according to the method of execution can be: manual and machine;
According to the nature of the weave, machine stitch can be: shuttle, chain;
by number of threads: one, two, three and multi-thread.
The machine stitch length ranges from 1 to 10 mm.
Line- this is a sequential series of stitches, which means the properties of the stitches will relate to the properties of the stitch: a lockstitch or chain stitch.
Stitches can be linear: stitches alternate to form a line; zigzag: stitches are placed at an angle to each other, which, in turn, can be simple or complex. Complex zigzag stitches are used to make knitted seams, hemming and finishing seams. There can also be lines with the stitches arranged perpendicular to the stitch line - overcasting and buttonhole stitches.
All these lines can be performed on different household machines. They are designed to perform various operations: connecting parts, sewing sections, sewing buttonholes, sewing on buttons, performing finishing stitches and embroidery. The linear (straight) lockstitch stitch is the most popular; it is used to make most seams: overstitching, adjusting, overcasting, overlaying, finishing, and so on. Machines that perform this type of stitching are called universal. Machines that perform chain stitching are called special machines, since they perform a narrower task: overcasting sections, hemming edges, processing knitted materials.
Technological parameters of the line:
4. The width of the zigzag stitch is adjusted in mm.
5. The number of needle and thread is selected for the specific fabric from which the product is made. Needles should not be dull. The threads are matched to the color of the fabric. For finishing stitches - according to the model.
The seam– connecting several layers of material with one or more lines.
Seams and stitches often have the same meaning and are sometimes called seams, sometimes lines, or vice versa. There is confusion in words not only in everyday life, but also among specialists, and even in the GOST definition: “a line is a sequential row of stitches, a seam is a sequential row of stitches on a material with a thickness of one or several layers.” And although stitches and seams need to be distinguished, in fact they are not distinguishable: a finishing stitch laid across the fabric is a seam, a gathering stitch laid on the material in one layer is also a seam. We don't see any difference in this case. The same applies to the GOST definition. In other words, don’t worry if you get the name wrong, the main thing is to understand the difference in essence.
Seams are a component of product quality, so very high demands are placed on them:
- Machine stitches must be even.
- The width of the seam should be the same along the entire length of the seam.
- The stitching should not burst when stretched.
- The stitches must be of high quality: equal in length and the interlacing of the lockstitch threads must be in the middle of the thickness of the fabric.
- The fabric along the seam should not be seated (gathered).
- The ends of the stitches in the seams must be secured.
- The line must be complete. If for some reason the stitching was not completed, then it is necessary to continue it only by making a bartack. “Extensions” are not allowed on finishing seams. The stitch needs to be unstitched and re-done.
In order for the seams to turn out to be of high quality, it is necessary to follow the rules for making seams: how to fold the parts, which end to start the stitching from, which part to sew on and what width of the seam.
When sewing, unless there are special requirements, the product must be placed on the left so that the seam allowance is to the right of the needle. The distance from the stitch to the cut of the part is called the width of the seam. The width of the seam depends on the type of seam, model, thickness and quality of the fabric (in fraying fabrics the seam width, for example, is larger). If there were lines of temporary stitching, they must be carefully removed after completing the seam. Finished seams need to be ironed: first from the wrong side, then from the front side through the ironing iron.
The choice of certain seams depends on their purpose, fabric fraying, and the availability of special equipment. When sewing items without lining, the stitches and seams must be clean and even, since they are all open. To avoid cutting through materials, do not use dull needles, and the pressure of the foot should not be strong.
Classification of machine seams
We should move on to machine seam classifications, and here an ambush awaits us!
There are two types of classification of thread seams: according to GOST and according to purpose.
But there is no such classification in GOST! And there is a classification consisting of 8 classes in accordance with the international classification, which places all the seams not according to their intended purpose, but based on the location of the layers of materials being joined. And in these classes, all the seams known to us are not located at all in the order in which we were taught, we taught and are still teaching our children and grandchildren. (Textbook of technology for girls, edited by Simonenko § 22, “Machine seams”).
machine stitch patterns for comparison
I wrote this article almost a week ago. I have known the material for more than thirty years, I removed a roller along the connecting seams, and prepared another one along the remaining machine seams. Everything is fine. As a teacher, I have a technology manual on this topic: a serious article “Machine thread seams and their application” in the professional magazine “School and Production” with reference to GOST 12807-79 “Sewing products. Classification of stitches, lines and seams." The article says (verbatim):
“In accordance with GOST ... machine thread seams, according to their purpose and the location of the parts being connected, are divided into connecting, edge and finishing.”
I personally have never seen an official document - a real GOST, in addition, during all the time I have been working, I have never seen any of my colleagues have anything different from what I know and what is written here. Also, the entire space of the “sewing” Internet contains the same information. That is, everyone gives the same classification of seams - according to their intended purpose.
Since I would like to maintain my website at a high enough level so that subscribers and visitors can trust me, I decided to correct the GOST date, thinking that there had already been a reissue over the years. I found GOST on the official standardization website and was shocked.
Already in 1988, there was a reissue of GOST, in which classes appear and there is not a word about the three categories of seams according to their intended purpose. In 2003, a new edition of GOST was published and there were the same classes and again not a word about the three groups of seams for their intended purpose. GOST for 1979 has already been deleted and I can’t find out now what was written there? Where did this classification by purpose come from, who came up with these three categories? The worst thing is that the seams that are indicated in the classes do not at all coincide with the types of seams found in the groups. And what is truer, what is more correct, what is more legal? In accordance with what regulatory document should seams be divided according to their intended purpose?
In the old GOST it is written both “by purpose” and by “location” of the seams. In the new GOST we read:
“The main classification feature of the materials being joined is the arrangement of the layers.”
And the most interesting thing is that all the seams in the GOST classification (and there are more than two hundred of them) are called “stitched”, when, according to the accepted division into three groups, only four seams are classified as stitched!
Table 2.1 of GOST 12807-, 2003... is called
In GoST there are different seams: edging, overhead, finishing and so on, but note that they are not talking about machine seams, but about stitched seams. ????
For two days after this unpleasant discovery, I was simply sick and could not do anything. Then I began to study, analyze, trying to understand the logic of the unification. It’s not for nothing that they say: teaching a scientist only spoils him. The revolution is not only in the brain, but also in the understanding that what I was confident in for so many years has collapsed. There are more than two hundred seams in total, including seams that were not considered before. And now, having gathered my thoughts, I am writing the article again. I’m still in a trance state, but already with an established scheme for seeing the problem.
Why such passions, you say? What difference does it make what seams are located where? Once upon a time in the sixties, in the sewing circles of the Houses of Culture, “grandmothers” carried out cutting according to measurements: POT, POB, and so on. This is how measurements were once designated. When I came to study, we already had designations: St., Sat. and so on. The sites are run by all my peers - students of those distant sixties - now also grandmothers. And the textbooks are not only written by “grandmothers”, but also not sewing specialists at all (judging by various signs). The teachers are also the same “grandmothers” - all my peers, only still working. Some kind of “general society of grandmothers” who are stuck in the past and are in no hurry to catch up with time, or rather, do not correspond.
Of course, you can sew the same dresses with both POT and ST. And in this topic, if you close your eyes to GOST, then you can simply sew something, call something somehow. And everything will work out. You can not speak at all and sew well too. But people search on the Internet for “types of machine seams”, “classification of machine seams”, some even using the old concepts of “connecting seams” - people want to know! And there are about 160 more requests « GOST sewing seams". Therefore, I can no longer speak as before. I will have to speak not only in the old way, but also in the new way. You have the right to choose.
Types of machine seams
All machine seams according to their intended purpose are divided into three groups:
- connecting,
- regional,
- finishing.
This is how machine seams are also discussed in technology lessons.
Conditionally, because there are seams that can be classified into two different groups at once.
Each group contains subgroups and types of seams. We look at the tables of machine seams. Each group speaks for itself. Let's look at machine seams in the tables.
Connecting seams connect the parts of the product.
Edge seams also speak for themselves: they are used to process all open edges of parts: collars, sides, bottoms, and so on.
Finishing seams we decorate clothes. Decorative reliefs also serve as design lines: with their help, the silhouette of the product is created. The seams used to process folds and reliefs are called finishing.
We will talk about all these classes in more detail in separate articles.
GOST: sewing seams
We have already talked about the current GOST 12807-2003 standard
We have given definitions of stitches, lines and seams, we know that all seams are divided into eight classes and we know by what criteria. Looking at Table 2.1 shown above, I will explain the GOST classification into classes with examples machine seams in the diagrams and descriptions.
2. A seam connects two or more layers of material, limited on different sides and located at different levels. The seam can also have edging or braid, the main thing is that these layers are limited on one or both sides. For example: an invoice with a closed cut, a lock, a sewing invoice, an invoice with a closed cut with braid or lace.
3. Seams consisting of two or more layers of material, one of which is limited on both sides. Additional layers should also be limited on one or both sides. For example: edging (a strip of material with a closed cut), edging (a strip of material with a closed cut) with braid or lace.
4. Seams located at the same level, limited on different sides and can consist of two or more layers. Example: butt with open cuts, butt with closed cuts, cover stitch, butt with a strip of material.
5. Seams consisting of one or more layers of material that are not limited on both sides, and any other layer is limited on one or both sides. For example, finishing stitching, tucks, adding a bow fold and others.
6. Seams made of one layer of material, limited on one side. Example: stitching for gathering, hem seam, tuck, trim trim.
7. Seams formed from two or more layers of material, one of which is limited on one side. Any other layer is limited on both sides. Adjusting braid or lace, hem seam with a closed cut while inserting a cord, processing the trim with interfacing, processing the upper cut of a skirt (trousers) and others.
8. Seams from one or more layers of material, limited on both sides. Any other layer is also limited on both sides. Sewing along the braid, ruffle to form a gather; processing of belt loops, straps; sewing a strip of material for edging while inserting a cord, processing a belt with a gasket.
Symbols for machine seams and stitches.
Today we took a tour on the topic "machine seams"
But for me the question is machine seam classifications remained open. If anyone has this information, please share it in the comments.
Ask questions. If the article was useful, share it with your friendson social networks, I will be grateful for likes. By subscribing to the news, you will not miss new lessons, and will also receive a useful book as a gift "Sewing machine for home use."
With love, Olga Zlobina
Machine seams are divided into connecting, edge and finishing seams. In turn, each of these main types of machine seams has its own classification. For example, a connecting seam can be a topstitch, an overstitch, an overlay, etc.
If you need to know how to perform a particular type of seam for labor lessons, or simply need a table of machine seams for self-development, then you can use the information in this article.
Please note that machine stitching and machine stitching are different concepts. A machine seam implies a method of joining or processing the edge of a fabric, and a machine stitch is a method, a pattern for forming a stitch with a sewing machine.
Connecting machine seams
Stitch seam
This machine seam is used when connecting shoulder and side sections, connecting a bodice with a skirt, sewing down sleeve sections, as well as when sewing a sleeve into an armhole, etc.
The parts are folded right sides together, basted and stitched, stepping back from the cut to the width of the seam.
To make a reverse seam, the parts need to be folded with the wrong sides, aligning the cuts, and stitched at a distance of 0.3-0.4 cm from the cut (A). Then bend the parts along the seam line, turning them face to face and stitch a second time, retreating from the edge 0.5-0.7 cm (B). In this case, the allowances of the first seam are closed inside the second.
This machine seam is used for sewing underwear, men's shirts, sportswear and workwear. It is performed as follows.
Fold the parts right sides together, skipping the bottom cut 0.5 cm from the cut of the top piece (A). Straighten the seam, bend the larger seam allowance around the smaller seam, turn the seam towards the smaller seam allowance, and stitch at a distance of 0.1-0.2 cm from the fold of the seam allowance (B).
Edge seams
Overlock seam
A facing seam is a type of stitching seam and is used to connect such parts of a product, as a result of turning them out, the seam will be located along their edge, and its reserves inside, between the parts (collar with a collar, sides with edging, neck with facing, etc.)
The parts are folded with the right sides inward and joined with a stitch seam. Then the parts are turned right side out, the seams are straightened and swept out to form a transition edge, which makes the seam invisible from the outside. The transition edge is formed by the upper part, which moves to the lower side by 0.1-0.2 cm.
In cases where the overcast seam is made without a transition edge, after joining the parts with a stitch, it is recommended to turn them inside out, iron the seam allowances, and then fold the parts again with the wrong side inward along the machine stitch and finally iron them.
When turning edges and processing collars made of non-fraying fabric, the width of a regular seam is 0.3-0-5cm. From crumbling fabric - 0.4-0.7 cm.
Machine hem stitch with closed hem
A hem seam with an open cut is used for hemming the bottom of the product and sleeves in products made from raincoat and cotton fabrics, as well as in the manufacture of linen (A).
The trimmed edge of the product is folded to the wrong side by 0.7-1 cm, ironed, after which the entire allowance for the hem is folded to the wrong side and secured with machine stitching at the very fold. The width of the external hem of the seam is determined by the purpose of the product and is taken within 1.5-5 cm.
A variation of this machine seam is the “Moscow seam” (B) - stitching the edge of the part with a double machine stitch. This seam makes it possible to obtain a narrow hem (hem) and is used mainly when hemming flounces, frills, and heavily flared hems of dresses.
Hem seam with open cut
A hem seam with an open cut (half-Moscow seam) is used when processing the inner edges of hems and all kinds of facings (necks, armholes, sleeves, etc.). The seam allowance (0.75 cm) is folded to the wrong side and stitched at a distance of 0.2 cm from the fold (see above - B).
When processing the edges of flounces, ruffles, frills, the seam is made with a zigzag stitch 0.15-0.25 cm wide, laying it along the fold, and the excess fabric is cut off right up to the stitch (see above - B).
This machine seam is sometimes called “Hong Kong” (A) and is used to process sections of parts, which are subsequently customized to other parts (yokes, bodice, patch pockets, etc.). In addition, this seam is used to process the edges of items made of dense fabrics (the edge of the hem, the edge of the hem of a coat).
We cut out a strip of fabric 2.5 cm wide (triple the width of the edging plus 1.5 cm) at an angle of 45 degrees to the direction of the warp thread (lobe).
Apply the facing to the section of the product being processed, aligning the front sides, grind it, wrap the section of the product with the facing, baste it and stitch it from the front side into the stitching seam.
We process the open cut of the hem of a coat or skirt made of thick fabric with an edge seam (from lining fabric) and hem it to the product manually for each stitch of machine stitching.
Closed-cut edge stitch
This machine seam is often called “rulik” (see diagram above - B). It is performed in the same way as with an open cut, only the facing is cut twice as wide (5cm).
Edge seam with braid
The edge stitch with braid is the same as the closed-cut seam, but instead of a strip of fabric, ready-made braid (bias tape) is used. The tape is wrapped around the cut being processed, basted and machine stitched, capturing both edges of the bias tape.
Seams made by machine
They are also, in turn, divided into several subcategories. Depending on the purpose, there are the following machine seams:
- connecting - as the main types of connections are used directly to assemble parts into a single product. This category includes stitching, sewing, overlay, adjustment, double seams and butt joints;
- edge - this group is performed in the process of processing the lower and side cuts of parts. Here the hem and edging seams are distinguished;
- decorative - used for artistic design of a product.
There are a large number of different options, but we will look at the basic machine seams that are most widely used.
Stitch seam
This is the simplest type, it is performed in the following sequence:
- The parts must be connected by aligning the front side of the fabric, fastened with pins or basting along a line that was previously marked with chalk. Typically, the starting width of the seam should be limited to 5-20 mm.
- We perform a straight stitch along the connection line with the obligatory fastening of the thread at the beginning and end of the seam. This is ensured by running a 1 cm long stitch in opposite directions.
- The sections of the assembled parts must be swept. This can be done in two ways, which depend on the further application of the seam. The first method is ironing, when two sections are overcast separately and ironed in the same order. The second option is called ironing. With this method, the edges are finished with an overlock stitch or an overlock stitch together.
- After processing the sections, remove the basting thread and heat treat the seam with an iron. Depending on how the basting was done, we iron the sections separately or together.
Overlay seam
It can be performed using two technologies, when the cut is open or closed.
- Open cut. This type of seam can also be obtained in two ways. In the first one, one part is combined with another not by cuts, but by smell, which should be 15-20 mm. Next, the stitching is done on the machine parallel to the edge. Another technique involves placing a part with a curved and ironed edge on top of a second one, and the cuts are aligned. The stitching should be parallel to the folded edge. At the end of the seam using this method, a folded joint is obtained on the front side, and two unprocessed cuts on the back side.
- Closed cut. We join the two parts with the front side, retreating the edges at a distance of 5-10 mm. We lay the first line along the wrong side, and the distance from the edge should not exceed 5 mm. We bend the part along the completed line to the front side. The fold must be made in such a way that the cut overlaps the top stitching. Then we make a second seam with an indent parallel to the edge.
Making a backstitch
This type has found its application in the process of creating bed linen. The sewing seam is performed using the following technology:
- We combine two parts facing each other. In this case, the lower cut should protrude by the size of the finished seam, the size of the protrusion should be within 8-9 mm.
- We make a bend, using the edge of the lower part to grab the cut edge from the upper part.
- We make the first line; it should be located at a distance of 1-2 mm from the folded edge.
- To get a closed seam, unfold the parts and lay them out on the front side.
- By turning the connected part, we close the smaller cut and perform the second line, departing from the edge no more than 2 mm.
Double or French seam
It is performed as a continuation of the stitch seam in the following order:
- In order to make a double seam, it is necessary to lay out the parts not on the front side, but on the wrong side, both cuts must be aligned in one line.
- We sew the edges along the front side with an indentation of 3-4 mm.
- We smooth the cuts.
- We turn the parts inside out, matching the right sides.
- We perform the second line, it should be located at a distance of approximately 5-7 mm from the resulting fold, and the internal sections should be completely covered by the top seam.
- Iron the double seam.
Adjustment stitch
The layout of the parts in this case is carried out with the front sides inward, and the sections should be connected in one line.
- We make a regular stitch seam parallel to the cut line.
- After joining, the upper part is bent and ironed.
- Now you need to sew a line that will run along the front side. It will connect three layers of material at the same time - the bottom piece and both seam allowances. If the material is thick enough then you can shift the bottom edge by half a centimeter. This technique will lead to the fact that when stitching, the middle layer of material will overlap and end up inside.
- Basically, an adjustment seam is used to join lightweight materials that allow you to bend and iron seam allowances, thereby preventing the fabric from fraying.
Hem
This type of connection is used to decorate the lower edges of products. It can be done in three ways:
- With a closed cut. To do this, you need to fold the bottom to the wrong side twice. The first bend is made with a size of 5 mm. The second turn depends on the type of fabric and can vary from 5 to 10 mm. The stitching is laid along the edge of the fold.
- With an open cut. To obtain such a seam, the overlap is folded to the wrong side and a stitch is made with an indentation of 2 mm from the edge of the resulting fold. To perform this stitch, you can use either a straight or zigzag shape.
- Narrow seam. To perform it, a fold of 3 mm is made on the wrong side, which is basted and stitched with an indentation of 1.5-2 mm from the fold. Excess fabric is cut off almost at the very edge. If we are talking about a fabric such as knitwear, then the process can be stopped at this point. This knitted seam is made on special machines; on the front side it will have the shape of a regular stitch, and on the back side it will look like an overlock stitch. For regular fabric, a second fold is made at a distance of 2-3 mm and another stitch is applied.
Edge stitch
To perform it, you will need special strips called facings. They are usually placed in the direction of the thread of the main parts. The shape of the sewn facing should be the same on both the front and back sides.
Edge sewing seams can have different designs:
- With a closed cut. The seam can be made in two different ways:
We fold the part and the facing tape facing each other and align the cuts. Then basting is done. The seam is made and the basting is removed. The allowances are ironed and cut to size 3-5 mm. The cut edges are turned around with a facing, the edge is folded and stitched.
For the second option, the facing tape is folded in half with the wrong side inward. Then it is applied to the front side of the part with the cuts aligned and stitched. The sections of the parts are wrapped in a strip, and the stitching is applied almost along the very fold of the facing.
- With an open cut. This treatment is performed with the first version of the closed cut edge stitch. Only in this case, the edge with which the cuts are wrapped is not tucked.
Hand stitches
In most cases, you can make seams by machine, but doing it by hand is also important. There are connections that can only be made manually, for example, a running or copy seam. All connections of this kind can be divided into four categories according to technology. So, let’s find out what types of hand stitches exist:
- Seam by needle. Using this technology, a line or stitch stitch, as well as a marking seam, is sewn.
- Forward with a needle. This includes the implementation of such types as spacer, copying, and running connections.
- Hem. This method makes a hidden or hemmed connection.
- Regional. This category includes overcast and buttonhole seams.
Let's look at the most common types of hand sewing.
Interlining seam
It is performed using a simple “needle forward” technology, which is ordinary stitches. The needle is inserted at a distance of 2-4 threads and carried forward until the end of the seam. The sewing direction is from right to left, and there should be even thread tension. Spacer seams are used on the fabric when assembling product parts. They also indicate the middle of the parts.
Running stitch
At its core, this is a temporary connection that is removed after the main machine seam is completed. For such work, it is advisable to choose thin threads so that after their removal there are no holes left in the fabric. An elastic thread is ideal for this work. The length of the basting can vary between 7-25 cm, it depends on the parts being assembled. The stitch size should not exceed 10 mm. This value depends on the thickness of the material being stitched.
Copy seam
The purpose of these seams is to symmetrically transfer the required dimensions and lines to paired parts. Marking lines and contour marks are marked with a copy seam. This seam is otherwise called a snare. It is a type of gasket joint. The direction of the thread when laying is from right to left. The seam is made with a double thread, which should be soft, and its length should not exceed 90 cm. As for the stitches, their size should not exceed 5 mm, the same requirement applies to the distance between them. The thread should not be tightened, but remain in the form of a loop up to 15 mm. After completing the work, it is necessary to move the parts apart and cut the threads between them, for this purpose the loops were left. As a result, symmetrical markings are obtained on both parts, and the patterns will have the same appearance.
Stitching and marking seams
This hand stitching is similar in shape to a regular machine stitch. Work begins using the same technology as the running stitch. After completing the first stitch, the needle pierces the fabric and the thread is brought out to the right side, as for the next step. But now the sewing direction changes in the opposite direction, that is, backwards, and the needle is inserted into the hole created by the end of the first stitch. On the right side of the fabric, the seam should look like a regular seam-stitch; to do this, you need to run it along one line, keeping the stitches the same size. On the reverse side, the stitches partially overlap. If you don't have a sewing machine, you can make these stitches by hand. They will become indispensable in repairing any item that has a machine seam torn.
The marking seam is created using the same technology, the only difference is that the stitches are made at a distance, not close to each other. This size should be half a stitch.
Hemming seams
They are used to process the bottom edge of the product. For such work it is necessary to first prepare the edge. For this:
- the entire allowance is folded in and basted at a distance of 5-10 mm from the resulting fold;
- the cut is folded a second time at the same distance and a second basting is performed with an indentation of 2-3 mm;
- the resulting lapel is ironed.
Now you can proceed directly to making the hemming seam. The edge of the fold is pierced with a needle and the thread is pulled through, now several threads of the main fabric are captured. Then the fold is pierced again, then the process is repeated until the end of the seam. Typically, such stitches are applied at a slight angle; there should be 3 stitches per 1 cm of seam.
Blind hem stitch
In the connection discussed above, the connection stitches are laid over the fold, as a result they will be visible from the inside. If you perform the hemming operation using a different technology, you will get a hidden seam.
The preparation of the tucked layer occurs in the same sequence as with a regular hemming seam. Then the order of execution changes:
- the folded hem allowance is turned to the right side, leaving a section of up to 3 mm;
- the thread is secured in the folded allowance;
- the needle is inserted under the fold of the edge, which is hemmed (you need to grab about two or three threads of the main fabric);
- The direction of work is from right to left, and the thread should not be too tight. The number of stitches that a blind seam will contain per 1 cm should be two or three pieces.
Overlock seams
This treatment is performed in order to prevent fraying and fraying of the edges of the product. The types of seams of this type are as follows:
- An oblique overlock stitch is made by grasping the edge, and the needle movement should be from bottom to top. The direction of work is from right to left, while the stitch density should be the same as for hemming seams.
- Another type is the cross stitch. At first, the work is carried out in one direction, as with an oblique stitch; having reached the end of the seam, the direction changes in the strictly opposite direction, and the stitches are placed crosswise over the already stitched ones. In this case, the work does not rotate, but remains in the same position. Edge processing can be done using loops.
Loop seams
Basically, this type of edge processing is used if the fabric has increased flowability. It can also be used to decorate the edges of fabric appliqués. A buttonhole stitch is very similar in appearance to a machine overlock stitch. The sequence of its execution is as follows:
- We fasten the thread to the edge of the cut; the fastening should be quite reliable.
- We pierce the fabric in the right place with a needle away from us.
- Without removing the needle from the fabric, we pass the thread through the loop and pull it out of the fabric.
- We tighten the resulting loop, the upper part should lie on the cut, thereby protecting it from falling apart.
- We perform the second stitch, the distance from the puncture site to the edge should be within 4-6 mm, and no more than 3 stitches should be placed per 1 cm of fabric. You can wrap the thread around the needle when it is in the fabric. Or you need to stretch it to the thread.
In this sequence, a loop stitch is made to the end of the cut. The direction of work is from left to right. This type of seam is often used for knitted fabrics. It is better to use an elastic thread in your work. How to make a beautiful and even knitted seam? The answer is simple: try to maintain the same size of punctures.
Types of stitches for embroidery
They can be classified in a separate category, because although they are manual, some are performed using a different technology. For embroidery, the interfacing, buttonhole and line stitches discussed above are used. There are other types:
- stalked;
- tambour;
- herringbone;
- goat.
All of them belong to the simplest contour seams and serve as an auxiliary element. More complex embroidery stitches are two separate directions, in the process of which some auxiliary elements are used.
Stem stitch embroidery
Such a seam is used as a separate element for the design of plant patterns, flowers, buds, stems, and leaves. The stem stitch is also used for edging finished embroidery parts as a finishing element. Very often, capital letters are embroidered using this technique.
This seam is made as follows:
- The thread is secured from the left edge and brought to the front side.
- Step 3 mm and stick the needle in to form the first stitch. When embroidering, the movement is from left to right. To obtain the correct seam, the needle point should be directed to the left.
- The needle is brought out in the middle of the future stitch. Make sure that the needle does not split the thread in the loop.
- Pull the thread to align the stitch.
- Using the same technology, we perform the next step, and so on until the end of the seam length.
If the drawing requires a curved line, we tilt the stitches so that the direction falls on the outer line. When filling a certain contour, the stem seam must be started from the same side.
Chain stitch
It consists of a continuous series of loops that come out of one another and line up. The thread is fixed to the canvas, and the work begins on the front side. The thread is placed in the loop from left to right. The needle pierces the fabric in the place from which the thread came out after fastening, and is withdrawn at the distance that should be the size of the loop. The needle comes out in the middle of the laid loop, and the thread should be under the needle. This embroidery element is used in complex patterns to form stripes or to sew outlines.
Cross stitch
Embroidery stitches of this type are very popular. With their help, you can create entire masterpieces in the form of paintings. For such embroidery, a special material is used - canvas; it has a pronounced cellular structure, which ensures equally even crosses. Let's consider the process of creating this seam:
- Fasten the thread and perform an oblique stitch from bottom to top.
- We pierce the fabric from the wrong side at the level of the lower end of the first stitch and bring the thread to the front side, the direction is from left to right.
- We perform the next oblique stitch and repeat this sequence until the required number of crosses. As a result, the first half of the pattern is completed.
- On the last cross we fasten the thread in the lower left corner and change the direction of embroidery in the opposite direction.
- We make the next oblique stitch from the bottom right point to the top left point, overlapping the previous stitch made in the other direction.
- We bring the needle down to the front side and repeat the process. The cross stitch should end in the place where it started.
Satin embroidery
The term “stitch” means making a pattern with very even stitches, directed in a straight line or at an angle. The types of seams of this pattern are quite varied. So, they can be simple, colored, linen, monochrome, etc. Regardless of what design is chosen for embroidery, you need to start with the fact that it must be transferred to the fabric using carbon paper. The outline of the pattern is sewn with stitches made with the needle forward. Then you can start filling out the pattern. The seam is made using large stitches between the finished contours. This filling is called flooring. The covering stitches should overlap the contour lines. To get a sufficiently embossed pattern, it is necessary to apply stitches with greater density. To make the pattern you are making smooth and beautiful, do not tighten the fabric with stitches while making the pattern.
Machine seams.
Connecting.
The following requirements apply to seams made on a sewing machine:
Machine stitches must be even;
- the width of the seam should be even (the same);
- stitches must be uniform in frequency;
- the tightening density of the stitches should be the same, the interlacing of threads should be between layers of material;
- the lines must be solid, without breaks;
- there should be no waviness of the material along the seam line;
- the seam must be strong (in this case, the threads you use play an important role);
- place seam allowances to the right of the needle, and place the main parts to the left.
Connecting machine seams
The seams that connect parts of a product made of all types of fabrics are called connecting. The seam is made with a straight two-thread stitch. The details of the product lie on both sides of the seam.
Connecting seams include: stitching, invoice, stitching, butt, sewing, double seams.
Connecting seams are used to sew down shoulder, side, and sleeve sections; in trousers, side, step, and middle sections are connected, etc.
Stitch seam
We fold the parts with the right sides inward, align the cuts and baste or pin them across the chalk line;
- Sew the edges with a straight stitch. Be sure to backtack at the beginning and end of the stitching. The width of the fabric seam allowance is from 0.5 to 1.5-2 cm;
- We sew the cuts. If the seam is pressed, then overcast both sections at the same time. If the seam is pressed, then we sew each section separately;
- We remove the basting thread and perform a wet-heat treatment of the stitched seam, pressed (Fig. 3) or open-ironed (Fig. 2), or the seam is left on the “edge” (Fig. 0).
Overlay seam
Overlay seams can be made with an open cut or a closed cut.
Overlay seam with open cut(Fig. 4.) is performed by overlapping the cuts with 1.5-2 cm overlapping each other. We lay the line parallel to the cuts of the parts.
Another type of overlay seam with open cut(Fig. 5.) is done like this:
A part with a folded and ironed edge is placed, combining the cuts, on the front side of another part and basted;
- The machine stitch is laid parallel to the folded cut of the part. The seam allowances remain open. In this way you can connect the yoke to the lower part of the back.
Overlay seam with closed cut(Fig. 6) is performed as follows:
We bend the cut of one of the parts towards the wrong side by 1-1.5 cm and iron it;
- Place the ironed edge of the part on another part and baste;
- We machine stitch, retreating from the ironed edge by 0.1-1 cm, that is, depending on the model. The seam allowance cut of part (a) is covered by both parts.
Adjustment stitch
Adjustment seams can be made with open and with one closed cut.
Adjustment stitch with open cuts(Fig. 7) is done like this:
We fold the parts with the right side inward and lay a seam stitch (1) along the wrong side of the parts;
- We bend the part (a) and lay a second line (2) along the front side of the part, parallel to the folded edge. The seam allowance cuts of both pieces remain open.
An adjustment seam with one closed cut (Fig. 8) is performed as follows:
We fold the parts with the right side inward and lay a seam stitch along the wrong side of the parts;
- We bend the part (a) and lay a second line along the front side, parallel to the folded edge of the part. The seam allowance cut of part (a) is closed with a second stitch.
Butt seam
Butt seam with closed sections on one side with a strip of fabric(Fig. 9) or braid done like this:
Two parts (b and c) are placed on the lower part or braid (a), aligning the cuts of both parts end-to-end. The joining line is located in the middle of the lower part or braid (a);
- Parts (b and c) are sewn onto the lower part or braid using one zigzag stitch (1). You can stitch with two parallel lines (1 and 2) (Fig. 10 a).
- In order for the connection to be strong, you can use two strips of fabric or braid, placing them under the joining line and above the joining line. In this case, the processed sections will be closed on both sides (Fig. 10 b).
Butt seam can be manufactured belt loops(Figure 10c). It is more convenient to cut out a long strip of fabric for making belt loops, make one long blank of belt loops, and then cut the required number of belt loops of the required length.
We sew the sections of the belt loops using an overlocker or a zigzag stitch;
- Bend the sections of the belt loop to the wrong side and lay two parallel machine lines;
- Iron the belt loops.
In products made from cotton fabrics, belt loops can be made in a different way (Fig. 10 d).
We overlock one longitudinal section of the belt loop;
- Using the overcast section of the belt loop, we overlap the unovercast section and make two machine stitches. In this case, the distance from the folded edges to the lines is 0.3 cm;
- Iron the belt loops.
Covering seam
Covering seam(Fig. 12) is mainly used for making bed linen.
We fold the two parts with their right sides inward, extend the cut of the lower part (b) to the value of the finished seam width of 0.6-0.7 cm and add another 0.2 cm. We bend the lower part (b) around the cut of the upper part (a) and we lay a stitching line at a distance of 0.1-0.2 cm from the cut;
- We lay out the parts in different directions, bend the seam to the side, close the smaller cut, lay a second line at a distance of 0.1-0.2 cm from the folded edge.
When cutting parts, please note that the seam allowance for the upper part is equal to the width of the finished seam (0.6-0.7 cm). On the side of the bottom part - double the width of the finished seam (1.2-1.4 cm) and add 0.2 - 0.3 cm.
Edge and finishing.
Edge seams
Edge seams are used to process the edges of various parts. The parts in this case lie on one side of the seam (edge seams are used to process the bottom of the sleeves, the bottom of any product, flounces, jabots, molds, frills, etc.).
Hem seam with open cut(Fig. 13) is done like this:
We pre-sew the cut of the part, bend it on the wrong side by 0.5–0.7 cm and sweep it;
- We place the machine stitch at a certain distance from the edge, depending on the model;
- If the machine stitch (hemming) should not be visible from the front side of the model, then we hem the seam allowance using hand blind stitches;
- We iron the seam.
Closed hem seam done like this (Fig. 14):
The section of the part to be processed is folded on the wrong side by 0.7 - 1.0 cm, and we sweep it;
- Iron the folded edge without catching the tacking stitch;
- Then we place the folded edge on the part, according to the amount of allowance provided for by the model, and machine stitch it or hand-hemm it with blind stitches;
- Remove the basting threads;
- Let's iron it.
Overcast seam in piping
Overcast seam in edging(Fig. 15) process cuffs, collars, valves, straps, edges of the side. We form the edging from a part located on the front side of the product so that the other part and seam are not visible.
We make the seam as follows:
We fold the two parts with the right sides inward, align the cuts and grind (line 1). Seam width 0.5 - 0.7 cm for light clothing, 0.3-0.4 cm for outerwear;
- Carefully trim the seam allowance in the corners; in curved areas, cut or cut out the seam allowance, not reaching the turning line by 0.1-0.3 mm;
- Turn the product part right side out, carefully straighten the corners;
- We straighten the edge. The edge size is 0.1-0.2 mm. We sew out the piping;
- Iron the part carefully with slight moisture;
- Remove the basting threads;
- Iron the part again;
- You can lay an embossing stitch (2), bending the seam allowance towards the part that will not be visible from the front side of the product;
- If a finishing stitch is provided, then we lay it along the front side of the part. In this case, there is no need to lay a stitching line. The finishing stitch can be laid at a distance of 0.1-2 cm from the edge, depending on the model.
Simple overcast stitch in frame
A seam is used (Fig. 16) to process facing loops and welt pockets. The width of the frame is 0.3-0.5 cm. The seam is made with one line.
We bend the part from which the frame will be made in half, with the wrong side inward, and iron it;
- We mark with chalk or soap along the front side the line for stitching the frame, we also mark the transverse lines, from the beginning to the end of which the machine stitch will be laid;
- We apply the facing side to the front side of the main part, baste and stitch with a seam 0.5-0.7 cm wide from the edge. We fix the beginning and end of the line;
- Iron the stitching seam. Then we bend the part near the line and iron it again.
Edge stitch
An edge stitch with closed cuts is used (Fig. 17) to finish the edges of parts in light women's and children's clothing (ruffles, frills, hems).
Ready-made bias tape for edging cuts can be purchased at the store.
We bend the finished bias tape lengthwise and iron it;
- We put the edge of the workpiece between the sides of the binding and baste it;
- We adjust the binding with a machine stitch at a distance of 0.1-0.2 cm from the edge.
You can make your own bias tape.
To do this, you need to cut out a strip of fabric 3-4 cm wide, at an angle of 45 degrees to the warp threads;
- We fold the cut strip of fabric inside out and iron it;
- Place the ironed strip on the front side of the part to which the strip will be stitched, and align the cuts. We grind the binding (Fig. 18 a) at a distance of 0.3-0.5 cm;
- We bend around the seam sections and lay another line along the front side (Fig. 18 b) at a distance of 0.1 cm from the edge;
- We iron the edging.
Finishing seams
Finishing seams are used for finishing various products. Finishing seams include folds, raised seams, seams with piping.
Raised seams
Relief seams include stitching, tucked, stitching with cord, raised relief seams.
Topstitch seams(Fig. 19) are performed on the front or back side of the part. Basically, this type of seam is used to sew folds on products. The distance from the fold line to the line is 0.1-0.2 cm.
Stitched seam with cord(Fig. 20) is used for finishing light women's clothing and coats. To make a seam you need a special foot with a groove in the sole.
A strip of the main fabric is placed on the inside of the part and the first machine stitch is made from the front side along the pre-marked line;
- Place a cord between the layers of fabric and lay a second line.
Adjustment difficult We perform the seam (Fig. 24 c) as follows:
On the front side of the part we mark a seam line;
- Place a strip of fabric on the inside of the piece. The middle of the strip should coincide with the intended line. On the front side, along the marked line, we sew a strip of fabric (Fig. 24 a);
- We bend the part along the seam of the stitching strip with the front side inward, bend it in one direction, and the stitched strip in the other direction;
- On the front side of the part we outline a stitching line;
- Place the second line at a distance of 1-2 mm from the fold. We reduce the line at the end to nothing. In this case, a relief is formed on the front side (Fig. 24 b);
- To secure a strip of fabric, bend it to one side of the part and lay a stitch along the front side of the main part according to the model (Fig. 24 c).
Simple folds
Simple folds can be finishing, which in turn can be one-sided or two-sided.
The fabric in simple folds is folded in a straight line or with a slight bend. Simple finishing folds are made from one piece.
IN simple finishing one-sided fold the folds of the fabric are directed in one direction on the front side and in the other direction on the wrong side of the part (Fig. 25 b). The fabric allowance when cutting is equal to twice the depth of the fold. (If the finished fold is 3 cm, then the allowance is 6 cm).
On the wrong side of the part we mark a fold with three lines:
The lateral line is the line of the outer fold of the fold;
The midline is the inner fold line;
- We lay a stitching line up to the third line, limiting the length of stitching of the fold. We secure the end of the line (Fig. 25 a);
- Iron the folds;
- You can put a finishing stitch on the front side;
- Remove the basting thread from the unstitched area of the fold.
Can be counter, while the folds of the fabric are directed towards each other (Fig. 26).
Allowance for depth of each oncoming fold is equal to the depth of one fold fold multiplied by 4. For example, the depth of one fold is 4 cm, then the allowance is 16 cm.
We mark the counter folds on the wrong side with three lines:
midline,
the third line is the line limiting the end of the fold.
- We bend the part along the middle line with the front side inward and sweep it along the side line;
- We lay a stitching line up to the third line. Fasten the end of the line;
- Remove the basting thread from the stitched area;
- Place the piece face down, place the fold allowance on both sides of the stitching line. The middle line must be located along the stitching seam;
- Along the upper cut we fasten the folded fold across it with a machine stitch;
- Iron the folds;
Simple finishing double-sided folds can be bow(Fig. 27), when the folds of the fabric on the front side are directed in opposite directions. Bow pleat represents the wrong side of the counter fold. The allowance for the depth of each bow fold is equal to the depth of one fold fold multiplied by 4. For example, the depth of one fold is 5 cm, then the allowance is 20 cm.
We mark the bow folds along the front side with three lines:
midline,
lateral line - line of external folds,
the third line is the line limiting the end of the fold.
- We bend the part along the middle line with the wrong side inward and sweep it along the side line;
- We sew a stitching line up to the third line, limiting the length of stitching of the fold. Fasten the end of the line;
- In the stitching area, remove the basting threads;
- Remove the basting thread from the stitched area;
- Place the part wrong side down, place the fold allowance on both sides of the stitching line. The middle line must be located along the stitching seam;
- Along the upper cut we fasten the folded fold across it with a machine stitch;
- Iron the folds;
- You can lay a finishing stitch along the front side, including one that secures folds along the width.
Overlay seam with edging(Fig. 29 b) is done like this:
We cut out a strip of fabric to make the edging;
- Fold in half, inside out, and iron;
- On the front side of the lower part we apply a strip folded in half and stitch it at a distance from the fold equal to the width of the edging plus the stitching width (Fig. 29 a);
- On the top piece, iron the hem allowance to the wrong side;
- Place the top piece face up, overlapping the ironed edge with the edging allowance, and adjust. Set the distance from the ironed edge to the stitching to 0.1 cm as desired (Fig. 29 b);
- Iron the seam from the wrong side.
First of all, you need to pay attention to the patch seam. It borders on decorative and finishing, but still serves to connect two parts. It is performed on the front side. There are two types: with a hidden edge and with a free one. The part that needs to be sewn is placed on the front side of the product, face up. If you sew inside or smooth the edges before doing this, they will be closed.
Pockets, yokes and decorative patches are sewn on using this method.
The topstitch stitch is a decorative version of the stitched stitch. After the product is sewn, the edges of the seam are smoothed and sewn strictly parallel to the main seam, at the same distance from it.
Finishing the edges of the product
A further classification of machine seams refers to the so-called edge seams. Their main task is to design the free edge of a product, such as the flap of a skirt, the bottom of trousers or the neckline. The appearance of the product and its durability depend on how carefully and reliably this is done.
There are two main types: hemming and edging. No additional pieces of fabric are used for hemming. Work is carried out with a free edge. For edging, it is necessary to have an edging, which is made from the same fabric as the main product, or from other flaps. It depends only on the original idea of the fashion designer.
It is impractical to leave the edge of the product without any treatment, since any fabric will crumble and unravel, which will have a completely negative effect on the appearance and linen.
Basic machine edge seams
Hemming a product is a very responsible matter. It is made by folding the fabric to the wrong side. There are several types of hem seams. If you simply fold the fabric and stitch it at a distance of about 0.5 cm from the bend, you will get a seam with an open edge. It looks good on the hem of a skirt and dress, as it is light and not bulky. But it is still better to overlock the free edge in advance to avoid fraying.
The hidden edge is made in the following way. The fabric is folded inward by about 0.5 cm, and then again, but by 1-1.5 cm. The stitching is done from the wrong side with a seam width of about 1-2 mm. This ensures that the edges are preserved.
And the last hem method is a double seam. It is performed in the same way as the previous one, but the stitching is done from both bends. The result is a stripe on the edge, limited by two lines. This method is most often used in jeans and rough trousers. They also make a pocket to insert an elastic band.
Using edges
Edging the product is more of a decorative move than a practical need. The use of hemmed seams is more justified, but they do not always justify their aesthetic appearance and the way the fabric treated in this way behaves.
Edging is used on knitwear, as well as in light blouses to give them greater volatility.
The technology for making machine seams using the edging method is classified as complex. The reason for this is the simultaneous control of three elements that need to be perfectly connected to each other. At the same time, the edging itself needs to hide its edges inside the finish.
To make the task easier, first, the edges are ironed on the edging flap so that they are held securely on the wrong side. Then you need to sweep away all parts of the product and only then start stitching. The width of the seam when edging is 0.1-0.2 cm, this requires a certain skill from the seamstress.
Decorative stitches
Modern sewing machines can produce not just one machine stitch, but several dozen. This means that in places where the stitching will be noticeable, it is not necessary to make it a straight line. If appropriate, you can use a zigzag, wave or crescents. This will make the outside of the clothing more unusual and attractive.
Decorative stitches can also be used as elements of simple embroidery. To do this, you can practice a little to understand exactly how a particular fabric behaves with this type of machine seam. A few minutes of exercise will allow you to get a completely unusual result, because this will already be some kind of original embroidery technique with a regular sewing machine.
Decorative machine stitch
The most important thing you need to know: decorative and finishing seams are always noticeable. Therefore, if you do them, then only with one hundred percent quality.
You can use them anywhere: make a fake pocket or sew in a zipper that does not open anything, stitch along and across the product, creating the effect of patchwork or quilting.
The main thing is not to be afraid to experiment and roughly imagine what result this or that additional stitch will give on the finished blouse or trousers.
