Tool for working with internal profile. This is the official name of the screwdriver familiar to us all.

According to one version, the screwdriver traces its history back to the depths of the 16th century, when Leonardo Da Vinci himself had a hand in its creation.

It would seem that what could be simpler than choosing a screwdriver? I came to the store, chose and bought. However, the seemingly elementary design of the instrument hides many secrets.

Let's figure out what and how it works in a screwdriver.

The main parts of a screwdriver are the rod and the handle. In turn, the rod has a working area - a tip with a slot, and the handle consists of a base material, an additional layer or lining and options, such as a hole and a hammer head.

All these parts and materials together affect the quality of the screwdriver, its performance and durability.

Screwdriver shaft

The key working part of a screwdriver is its steel rod.

Type of steel

The grade of steel directly affects the characteristics of the rod. How the rod behaves as the torque applied to the screwdriver increases. How capable it is of elastic deformation, and at what point does irreversible destruction occur.

Screwdrivers, which can be found in retail hardware stores and hypermarkets, are mainly equipped with rods made of such types of steel as:

• carbon steel
• chrome vanadium steel Cr-V
• chrome molybdenum steel Cr-Mo
• steel S2
• steel SVCM

The most affordable carbon steel is the lot of simple and budget screwdrivers. If there is no marking on the rod, then this is the kind of steel you are looking at. Its only advantage is its low price.

The next option is chrome vanadium steel. This is the most common material for screwdriver rods. It has sufficient plasticity. Under high loads, Cr-V is irreversibly deformed.

It is extremely rare that some manufacturers use chrome-molybdenum steel. Although Cr-Mo is more suitable for pliers - pliers, wire cutters. It withstands shock loads well, but is weak in resisting torsional loads.

One of the best steel options for a screwdriver is S2 alloy steel. It contains molybdenum and silicon. S2 resists load well, but breaks down when the limit is reached. Due to its low plasticity, it has a low threshold for reversible deformation. Sometimes you can find S3 steel as an improved version of S2.

Ultra-modern development of steelmakers SVCM steel. Its composition is selected specifically for the needs of screwdriver production. SVCM combines the advantages of Cr-V and S2 steels - hardness, rigidity, ductility and a high threshold for reverse deformation.

Test schedule for screwdriver blades made of Cr-V, S2 and SVCM steels

Rod cross section

Most screwdriver rods have a round cross-section. This is due to the peculiarity of the production cycle. The rods are made from wire, which metallurgical plants draw exactly round.

Jonnesway screwdriver with round blade

Less common rod cross-section options are square and hexagon.

Square blade screwdriver

LUX Hex Screwdriver

Such sections are typical for power screwdrivers. The profile of the rod with edges allows you to apply additional force to the screwdriver using a wrench, increasing the torque many times over.

Rod coating

To protect the steel from premature corrosion, a protective coating is applied to the surface of the rods.

Most often this is a matte chrome-nickel coating applied by galvanization.

Matte finish on drum rods

Some manufacturers chrome the rods to a mirror finish. In addition to being eye-catching, this coating makes caring for the screwdriver much easier. To wipe off dirt or fuel residues from the chrome rod, just wipe it with a dry cloth.

Chrome plated screwdriver blade

Screwdriver tip

The main working part of a screwdriver is its tip. It is also sometimes called “sting”. To ensure that the tool lasts a long time and does not cause trouble, when choosing a screwdriver, take a closer look at the tip.

Processing quality

First of all, you should visually examine the quality of metal processing on the tip. Edges and surfaces must be carefully milled and sanded. There should be no burrs or scuffs.

LUX power screwdriver bits

The protective layer of black paint must be intact. If the paint is worn or missing at all, then most likely the screwdriver has already been used, and it is not new.

If you know in advance which slotted screwdriver you are going to buy, take a sample of fasteners with you to the store. A well-processed tip should fit tightly and without play into the internal profile of screws and screws.

The tightness of the screwdriver tip to the screw slots

Hardening

Of course, it will not be possible to check the degree of hardening of the tip by eye. You will have to rely on the honesty of sellers and the frankness of manufacturers. But it’s still worth asking how hard the tip is hardened.

The best examples of screwdrivers can boast tips hardened to 52-58 HRC.

Magnetization

But magnetization, unlike hardening, can be easily checked on site. It is enough to attach a screw, nut or screw to the tip.

A good-quality screwdriver has a tip that confidently holds even a large screw.

With a magnetized tip, working with fasteners will be much easier in the future. A magnetized screw will not come off the screwdriver if you are driving it in a hard-to-reach place.

Screwdriver slot

The most common types of screwdrivers are available with the following slots:

• straight spline SL
• Phillips or Pozidriv
• hexagonal Torx slot

Splines are offered in a wide range of sizes, as they say, to fit any tricky screw.

Of course, the variety of splines is much wider. But other types of slots in the form factor of a classic screwdriver are critically rarer.

The choice of slot depends on what tasks you plan to solve with a screwdriver.

Screwdriver handle

The handle of a screwdriver is no less important than the shaft. When selecting a tool, you should study the profile of the handle, the base material, whether there are linings or additional coating. And also the ability of the handle to withstand the caustic effects of petrochemicals.

Cross profile of the handle

The shapes of handles are now limited only by the imagination of designers and industrial designers. And there is no need to advise which one to choose, since there are too many options.

But there is one parameter that must be studied before purchasing. This is a cross profile. It directly affects not so much the comfort of work as the amount of torque that can be transmitted through a screwdriver to the fastener.

The three main types of handle profiles are round, triangular and hexagonal.

Round profile

Round profile Matrix screwdriver

In cross section, the handle is a circle. This form is convenient to manufacture - injection molds are easy to produce. However, in terms of torque, this is the weakest version of the handle. There is nothing for the palm to grab hold of securely. And slippage is more than likely.

Triangular profile

Triangular screwdriver profile

A triangle at the base of the handle is the best option in terms of torque. The triangular profile follows the anatomical shape of a clenched palm and allows maximum force to be transferred to the fastener.

Hexagonal profile

Hexagonal screwdriver profile

The hexagonal profile of the handle has the second highest quality of torque transmission to the fastener. It is better than the round one, but inferior to the triangular one due to less compliance with the anatomy of the hand.

Hexagonal handles are particularly popular in America, where this form of screwdriver is considered a classic.

Base material

Modern screwdriver handles are made from various types of plastic and thermoplastic rubber. Time wooden handles or all-steel handles are a thing of the past.

The most widespread are solid one-component and two-component handles. Impact-resistant types of plastic are used as the basis for both.

Often, for a decorative effect, two-component handles are made of transparent plastic.

Swiss Tools PB195 single-component screwdriver handle

In two-component handles, opaque plastics are often used as a base.

Transparency/opacity of the handle base plastic does not affect performance characteristics.

Overlays or additional covering

If in one-component handles there are no other materials besides the base, then in two-component handles there is a second surface material or linings.

This material simultaneously increases friction between the hand and the screwdriver and acts as a shock absorber.

The screwdriver handle is coated with Santoprene on top

The anti-friction coating can either cover almost the entire area of ​​the screwdriver or take the form of separate linings in the planes most loaded with friction.

In Ombra Basic, rubber pads resemble wings

The best option would be thermoplastic linings. With a similar coefficient of friction, they absorb shock vibrations better than conventional rubber. This means that your hand will get less tired with them.

Protection against corrosion by petrochemicals

This parameter is important for those who are going to actively use a screwdriver in the garage. It's full of various petrochemicals - gasoline, motor oils, brake fluid. All this is quite caustic and can have a detrimental effect on the handle.

The high-quality handle is made of materials that can withstand exposure to petroleum products. Plastic, thermoplastic rubber of the linings - all this should survive even if you drop a screwdriver into a bucket of gasoline.

It will be difficult to check the durability of materials at the store counter. Therefore, at a minimum, you need to ask the seller a question. Experienced dealers know which screwdrivers are neutral to fuels and lubricants, and will always tell you where to choose.

Additional options

In addition to the central structural elements - the rod, tip and handle - screwdrivers from some manufacturers are equipped with additional features that make their everyday use a little more convenient or add new functions to the tool.

Hole in the handle.Refers to options that increase the comfort of use. A screwdriver with it can be hung on a tool stand or simply on a nail in the wall.

Hole in Dexell screwdriver handle

Slot for power rotation.Adds a new degree of freedom to the screwdriver. You can attach a wrench to the slot and multiply the force applied to the fastener. As a rule, power screwdrivers have a similar slot.

Slotted screwdriver LUX
Dexter screwdriver slot

Hammer head.An additional steel platform on the back of the handle allows the use of a hammer. Of course, you shouldn’t drive screws using the “screwdriver-hammer” system, but driving the tip more tightly into the internal profile of a rusty screw is what you need.

Screwdriver striker

IN in some cases When there is no particular concern for the tool, a screwdriver with a hammer head can be used as a drift, a center punch, or even a stone chisel.

Portrait of an ideal screwdriver

As a summary, let’s try to create an identikit of an ideal screwdriver that will last for many years.

We thank the companies Pride, World of Tools, hypermarkets Leroy Merlin and Obi for their participation in the preparation of the material.

I was looking at buying a set with extended bits, settled on the already well-studied similar ones from NANCH, but in Girbest I came across this one, which is very similar to above mentioned, but has no name and the type of steel is not specified. But the price was significantly lower. After looking at the photo, it seemed to me that the bits were quite decent. But suddenly plasticine? Then it’s a pity to pay that much money for it, I hate an instrument that is made of soft metal and literally immediately becomes deformed. Even if it’s for 3-5 dollars per set, working with it is a pain. Therefore, I didn’t decide to buy, but I asked for it for review. It’s very interesting, and if it turns out to be suitable, the review will be useful to many.
For those who are too lazy to read, I’ll say right away, for the money it’s just an excellent set, the bits are made of high-strength S2 steel, I definitely recommend it. “Pick up” in short. For those who are interested in the details, below is a review of strength tests (using improvised methods) and comparison with other bits.

First, I’ll tell you a little about my previous sets. At the local radio market, for 10-15 bucks, probably 9 years ago, I bought this kit for disassembling all kinds of devices, mainly mobile phones.


The set has been used quite actively for some time, and is still alive, you can still work with the bits. The fact is that its bits are made of durable steel - CrV (Chrome Vanadium). But this applies to bits. The handle was plastic, with a telescopic metal insert. Over time it broke due to significant loads. Then I bought this set offline, I don’t remember the brand name, but it’s the same as the well-known ones here: JACKLY or Jakemy.

And it was bought essentially because of its comfortable-looking handle. But she couldn’t withstand the load either. The metal insert in the plastic has turned. In principle, if you don’t twist the phone for anything more serious, it will withstand it, but since there are more bits from the last set, and even stronger ones, that’s why it wasn’t easy for the handle. In general, I put this insert on glue and gave away this set.


I only kept these 2 bits for exotic hats. As you already understood, I had to buy 1 more set for the sake of the handle. This time it was purchased in China here's a set.


The handle was chosen based on the consideration that it was made from a single piece of aluminum and certainly would not break) But I didn’t care about the bits, it was clear that they would be “plasticine”. In the photo you can see that the bits are still in excellent condition. But this is only because they were just lying around somewhere and by some miracle they didn’t even get lost, I didn’t even think about using them. All of the above will be useful in the future to understand which bits are being compared.

And now let's get back to the review of the new set.


The set came in a regular bubble bag, without branded packaging.


Nothing was damaged during delivery, although with such packaging there was every chance the box could have cracked.


The set is supplied in a convenient and durable plastic box; the set itself and its box, as many have already noticed, are very similar to high-quality ones under the NANCH brand.


During operation, parts of the housing can open 180 degrees, or even 360, and the top cover becomes a stand.


On the store website, the brand name, as well as the material of the bits, are not indicated at all. In reviews of the original NANCH sets, I found a photo (on the left) of the reverse side and compared it with the review one (on the right). As we can see, they are very similar. Is it a fake, or some kind of OEM option, I don’t know for sure, but judging by the tests of the bits, they are certainly not worse and I am inclined to the second option. Most likely, these are the products of one conveyor.
On the back of the box the standard sizes of bits in the set are indicated, but this information is not entirely reliable. The set is equipped a little differently, the specified equipment on the store website differs from that presented on the package.


And, oddly enough, the correct information is indicated on the website, and not on the box. Usually the opposite happens.


Actual contents of the set. Next, we will consider all the bits for quality of manufacture and compliance with the declared ones.

Let's go in order, according to the list of the kit.
First Phillips bits (+): PH000, PH0, PH00, PH1, PH2


The steel marking - S2 and the type of bit are visible on the bits. I suspect that it is not knocked out very well due to the fact that the steel is of really high hardness.


There should be 5 of them in total, but there are 6 of them, 2 pcs. PH0. In my opinion, 5 is too much for this type, it would be better if there were more types of Torx. And since all the places in the box are occupied, it means there’s something missing somewhere ((

Next are the five-pointed stars (Star): 0.8, 1.2



Everything fits here. As you can see, even the smallest bits are made of very high quality, the slots are clear.

Now, perhaps, the most polar type for such sets is Torx: T3, T4, T5, T6, T8, T10, T15


So the loss was found. There is no T8 bit, it turns out there was an extra one instead. I would like to see in the set also T7, T9, maybe even T20, the handle allows you to safely twist larger ones.


The quality is excellent here too.

Straight slot (Slotted): 1.5, 2.0, 2.4, 3.0


Everything corresponds.

And all the rest together: M2.6, triangular 2.3, Y2.5, hex H3.0.


Everything corresponds.


But the meaning of one hexagon is not entirely clear, it would be better to have one more of the latter, for example Y of a different size or something else rare.
Bit sizes:


The total length of the bits is 45 mm, the working part is 25 mm, thinner bits have a “step”, up to it is 17 mm, 35 mm protrudes from the handle.


Yes, these are not the longest bits, but with them the chances of successfully disassembling the vast majority of home appliances are significantly increased compared to “regular” short bits. They are mainly suitable for tablets/phones, but are not able to remove screws from recesses.

Now let's take a closer look at the handle.


The handle is completely metal, or more precisely aluminum or an alloy based on it. There is a rotating tip at the top, and a tenacious knurl where you grip with your fingers.


The handle is 12 cm long, taking into account the extended built-in extension - just under 20 cm.


The diameters are in different parts, the screwdriver is quite thick, this is good for applying significant effort when working.


It fits very well in the hand and is comfortable to work with. The bit fits into the holder with a slight play; when using an extension, there is also play in the extension itself. But it’s not critical, it doesn’t interfere with work.


To extend the extension, you need to pull the black ring of the lock forward with your fingers (in the direction of the white arrow).


It can be extended to the required length.

Now tests, Let's check them for strength using available tools and compare them with bits from other sets. First of all, I took a file and first, closer to the working part, I scratched several times along the edges of the bits, then higher up, 8 times along the edges.


The lower bit, as expected, gave in easily (because it is made of soft steel shit), the file bites in well. The white bat (second from the bottom), is a little stronger, but also sharpens quite well. As it seemed to me, it has some kind of harder coating, and the inside is also soft metal, although it is definitely better than the first one. The third bit (gray, from CR-V), this is a pretty good durable bit made of hard steel, it is much more difficult to sharpen. And the most interesting thing is the top bit from the reviewed set. Yes, it was slightly scratched, but due to the hardness of the material, I was unable to make a transverse strip with the edge of the file in one place; the file slipped.


Obviously, this bat is indeed made of high-strength steel, harder than the CR-V. But I partially attributed this matter to the fact that I could not make a clear stripe in one place. I recorded it and now worked more accurately with a file, and also made 2-3 times more movements than last time and on all other bits. As a result, a clear stripe appeared, but these were more likely scratches. You can barely feel it with your fingernail.

Now let's compare the hardness of the existing bits using a hammer. The technique is as follows: we place one of the three bits on the plane, and place the bit from the set perpendicularly, with its edge on the plane of the face.


Then a blow with a hammer, the next bit. The impact force is the same as far as possible.


The results are quite expected, the softer bits squashed like plasticine, the CR-V bit squashed slightly, but squashed. What about the edge of the bit from S2?


And the rib is intact. After three blows, it was absolutely not deformed, these are traces from other bits. In the same photo you can clearly see the mark from the edge of the file. There is no deep groove.


Yes, it’s easier to push the edge through the face plane. Now let's swap the bits. We place the bit from S2 on the plane, and on the plane we hit each of the other three bits with the edges in turn.


Let's examine the results. The edge at the top of the bit is crushed, on the bit from the set there is a mark left on the edge with remnants of material from the first bit, there is no dent. The CR-V bit has a small nick on the edge, and the damage appears to be minimal, you can barely feel it with your fingernail. The third dark bat left no traces at all and collapsed on its own.


From a slightly different angle, it is now better seen that on the bat in question there is not a dent from the gray bat, but a mirror imprint of a notch on the other bit. On the verge of minimal damage, the edge has slightly rounded along the contact.

Then I decided to test the hardness of the metal on the glass, or more precisely on the mirror.


The vertical, even mark is from a glass cutter. As you can see, the sharp slot of the bit leaves impressive scratches.


For comparison, I repeated the same actions with a bat from the CR-V. He pressed even harder, but barely noticeable marks remained. I didn’t even try it with plasticine bits.

Then I just tried to work a little with a screwdriver.


The first thing I did was disassemble the knife with the screws on the thread lock. With a thick handle, it is possible to apply a good torque, and thanks to the strength of the bit, neither it nor the cap came off. Yes, and everything went quite simply. I remember my previous torment with disassembling knives...

Here, too, everything is without problems, the only thing is that you need to wrap it back carefully so as not to twist the thread in the plastic.

Using a T15 bat I unscrewed the soured aluminum screws, pressed them back with good force, nothing was damaged. The bits are magnetized, but weakly, the screws barely hold on, I wish they were stronger.


Large screws can also be clamped with greater force without problems.

Conclusion.
The set is excellent, definitely worth the money, I strongly recommend it for purchase. It’s a pleasure to work with them, and most importantly, disassembling and assembling devices with it will be really simpler and more convenient, because the bits will not curl up on the first device, and thanks to their length They want to get to the cap in the recess. I think it’s better to overpay a little for this than to buy cheaper ones one after another and constantly change them either because of a loose handle or because of soft bits.
Pros:
High-strength steel bits
- Comfortable metal handle with built-in extension
- Workmanship quality
- Convenient box made of durable plastic

Cons:
- There are gaps, they don’t interfere with work in any way, but they are there and I can’t point them out
- Error in the package, instead of the T8 bit there was another PH0

The product was provided for writing a review by the store. The review was published in accordance with clause 18 of the Site Rules.

The material of a screwdriver shaft is one of the most important components of its quality. The body of the screwdriver must be hard enough not to be subject to deformation, and the working surface of the “tip” must not wear out during operation. It is necessary that the tool retains its functionality even after applying maximum effort. If the quality of the material is poor, or if the heat treatment modes are chosen incorrectly, the product can sometimes look attractive, but not meet the basic requirements for the tool.
Until recently, the basic requirements for screwdrivers were determined by GOST (State All-Union Standard), and the classic material for manufacturing was chrome vanadium alloy steel.
IN Lately The best tool manufacturers for the manufacture of screwdriver bodies and “bits” began to use more alloyed steels with an improved set of properties to increase the reliability and service life of the tool.
The design of our screwdrivers uses relatively recently developed composite steel S2.
S2 steel is a special complex alloy steel with a high carbon content, which can be classified as a group of tool steels.
Compared to screwdrivers made from conventional chrome vanadium steel, the innovative combination of alloying elements in S2 steel and the increased carbon content made it possible to obtain the best range of properties, making it possible to use this alloy where other tool steels cannot be used. For example: a stamp, a chisel, a core, wrenches, pins, a forming tool that operates in heavy conditions with increased demands placed on it.
Alloying elements form complex combinations in the steel structure, giving it both increased hardness and impact strength of the metal, helping to reduce the content of unwanted impurities (oxygen, sulfur) in the steel, and improving its mechanical and corrosion properties.
To improve the physical, strength and technological properties (hardenability, relaxation resistance, fine-grained structure), alloying elements such as molybdenum, vanadium, chromium, manganese and silicon are introduced into its composition.
Vanadium rightfully belongs to the most important alloying elements. It was about him that the remarkable Soviet scientist academician A.E. Fersman said: “... the forces that he imparts to iron and steel are fabulous, equipping them with hardness and strength, toughness and flexibility...”

Thus, complex alloying makes it possible to achieve truly unique properties:
1. The alloy has increased impact strength;
2. After proper heat treatment, a hard surface layer and a viscous core are formed.

I was looking at buying a set with extended bits, settled on the already studied similar ones from NANCH, but in Girbest I came across this one, which is very similar to the above-mentioned one, but has no name and the type of steel is not indicated. But the price was significantly lower. After looking at the photo, it seemed to me that the bits were quite decent. But suddenly plasticine? Then it’s a pity to spend so much money for it, I hate an instrument that is made of soft metal and literally immediately deforms. Even if it costs 3-5 dollars per set, working with it is a pain. Therefore, I did not dare to buy, but asked for a review. I’m interested in it myself, and if it turns out to be suitable, the review will be useful to many.
For those who are too lazy to read, I’ll say right away, for the money it’s just an excellent set, bits are made of high-strength S2 steel, I definitely recommend it. “To pick up” is shorter. For those who are interested in the details, below the cut is a review with strength tests (using improvised methods) and a comparison with other bits.

First, I'll tell you a little about my previous sets. At the local radio market, for 10-15 bucks, probably 9 years ago, I bought this kit for disassembling all sorts of devices, mainly mobile phones.


The set has since been used quite extensively, and is still alive, the bits can still be worked on. The fact is that its bits are made of durable steel - CrV (Chrome Vanadium). But this applies to bits. The handle was plastic, with a telescopic metal insert. It broke over time due to heavy loads. Then I bought this set offline, I don’t remember the brand name, but it was the same as the well-known JACKLY or Jakemy here.

And it was bought essentially because of its convenient-looking handle. But she couldn’t withstand the stress either. The metal insert in the plastic turned. In principle, if you don’t twist anything more serious than phones, it will hold up, but since there are more bits from the previous set, and even stronger ones, it was not easy for the handle. In general, I installed this insert with glue and gave away this set.


I kept for myself only these 2 bits for exotic hats. As you already understood, I had to buy 1 more set for the handle. This time it was purchased in China.


The handle was chosen based on the considerations that it was made from a single piece of aluminum and would certainly not break) But I didn’t care about the bits, it was clear that they would be “plasticine”. You can see in the photo that the bits are still in excellent condition. But this is only because they were just lying around somewhere and by some miracle they didn’t even get lost, I didn’t even think about using them. All of the above will be useful in the future to understand which bits are being compared.

Now let's get back to the review of the new set.


The set came in a regular bubble bag, without branded packaging.


Nothing was damaged during delivery, although with such packaging there was every chance the box could easily crack.


The set comes in a convenient and durable plastic box; the set itself and its box, as many have already noticed, are very similar to high-quality ones from the NANCH brand.


During operation, parts of the case can open 180 degrees, or even 360, and the top cover becomes a stand.


On the store’s website, the brand name and the material of the bits are not indicated at all. In the reviews of the original NANCH sets, I found a photo (on the left) of the reverse side and compared it with the one under review (on the right). As you can see, they are very similar. Is it a fake, or some kind of OEM option, I don’t know for sure, but judging by the tests of the bits, they are certainly no worse and I’m leaning towards the second option. Most likely these are products from the same conveyor.
The back of the box indicates the sizes of bits in the set, but this information is not entirely reliable. The set is equipped a little differently; the specified equipment on the store’s website differs from that presented on the packaging.


And, oddly enough, the correct information is indicated on the website, and not on the box. Usually it's the other way around.


Actual contents of the set. Next, we will consider all the bits for quality of manufacture and compliance with the declared ones.

Let's go in order, according to the list of the kit.
First Phillips bits (+): PH000, PH0, PH00, PH1, PH2


The steel marking - S2 and the type of bit are visible on the bits. I suspect that it was not knocked out very well due to the fact that the steel is really hard.


There should be 5 of them in total, but there are 6 of them, 2 pcs. PH0. In my opinion, 5 is too much for this type; it would be better if there were more Torx types. And since all the places in the box are occupied, it means that somewhere there is not enough ((

Next are five-pointed stars (Star): 0.8, 1.2



Everything matches here. As you can see, even the smallest bits are made of very high quality, the slots are clear.

Now, perhaps, the most polar type for such sets is Torx: T3, T4, T5, T6, T8, T10, T15


So the loss was found. There is no T8 bit, it turns out there was an extra one instead. I would like to see T7, T9, maybe even T20 in the set, the handle allows you to safely twist large ones.


The quality is excellent here too.

Straight slot (Slotted): 1.5, 2.0, 2.4, 3.0


Everything matches.

And all the rest together: M2.6, triangular 2.3, Y2.5, hex H3.0.


Everything matches.


But the meaning of one hexagon is not entirely clear; it would be better to have 1 more of the latter, for example Y of a different size or something else rare.
Bit sizes:


The total length of the bits is 45 mm, the working part is 25 mm, thinner bits have a “step”, up to it is 17 mm, 35 mm protrudes from the handle.


Yes, these are not the longest bits, but with them the chances of successfully disassembling the vast majority of home equipment are significantly increased compared to “regular” short bits. They are mainly suitable for tablets/phones, but are not capable of removing screws from recesses.

Now let's take a closer look at the handle.


The handle is completely metal, or rather aluminum or an alloy based on it. There is a rotating tip at the top, and a tenacious knurling in the place where you grip with your fingers.


The handle is 12 cm long, taking into account the extended built-in extension - just under 20 cm.


Diameters in different parts, the screwdriver is quite thick, which is good for applying significant force when working.


It fits very well in the hand and is comfortable to work with. The bit fits into the holder with a slight play; when using an extension cord, there is also play in the extension cord itself. But it’s not critical, it doesn’t interfere with work.


To extend the extension, you need to pull the black ring of the lock forward with your fingers (in the direction of the white arrow).


It can be extended to the required length.

Now the tests Let's test them for strength using available tools and compare them with bits from other sets. First of all, I took a file and first, closer to the working part, I struck several times with a plane along the edges of the bits, then higher up, 8 times with an edge.


The lower bit, as expected, gave in easily (because it is made of soft steel shit), the needle file bites in well. The white bat (second from the bottom) is a little stronger, but also sharpens well. It seemed to me that it has some kind of harder coating, and the inside is also soft metal, although it is definitely better than the first one. The third bit (gray, from CR-V), this is a pretty good durable bit made of hard steel, it is much more difficult to grind off. And the most interesting thing is the top bit from the reviewed set. Yes, it was slightly scratched, but due to the hardness of the material, I was unable to make a transverse strip in one place with the edge of the file; the file slipped.


Obviously, this bat is indeed made of high-strength steel, harder than the CR-V. But I partially attributed this matter to the fact that I could not make a clear stripe in one place. I fixed it and now worked more accurately with a file, and also made 2-3 times more movements than last time on all the other bits. As a result, a clear stripe appeared, but it was more like scratches. You can barely feel it with your fingernail.

Now compare the hardness of the existing bits using a hammer. The technique is this: we place one of the three bits on the plane, and place the bit from the set perpendicularly, with its edge on the plane of the face.


Then a blow with a hammer, the next with a bat. The impact force is the same as far as possible.


The results are quite expected, the softer bits wrinkled like plasticine, the CR-V bit wrinkled slightly, but it did. What about the edge of the bit from S2?


And the rib is intact. After three blows it was not deformed at all, these are marks from other bits. In the same photo you can clearly see the mark from the edge of the file. There is no deep groove.


Yes, it’s easier to push an edge through the face plane. Now let's swap the bits. We place the bit from S2 on the plane, and hit the plane in turn with the edges of each of the other three bits.


Let's look at the results. The edge of the top bit was crushed; on the bit from the set there was a mark on the edge with remnants of material from the first bit, there was no dent. The bit from the CR-V had a small notch on the edge; the one in question had very minimal damage, you could barely feel it with your fingernail. The third dark bit left no traces at all and wrinkled itself.


From a slightly different angle, it is now better seen that on the bit in question there is not a dent from the gray bat, but a mirror imprint of the notch on the other bit. There is very minimal damage on the edge, the edge at the contact is slightly rounded.

Then I decided to test the hardness of the metal on glass, or rather on a mirror.


The vertical, even mark is from a glass cutter. As you can see, the sharp slot of the bit leaves impressive scratches.


For comparison, I repeated the same actions with a CR-V bat. He pressed even harder, but barely noticeable marks remained. I didn’t even try with plasticine bits.

Then I just tried to work a little with a screwdriver.


First I disassembled the knife with the screws on the thread lock. With a thick handle, it is possible to apply a good torque, and thanks to the strength of the bit, neither it nor the head came off. And everything went quite simply. I remember my previous torment with disassembling knives...

Here, too, everything is no problem, the only thing is that you need to wrap it back carefully so as not to twist the thread in the plastic.

Using a T15 bat, I unscrewed the soured aluminum screws, clamped them back with good force, nothing was damaged. The bits are magnetized, but weakly, the screws barely hold on, I would like it to be stronger.


Large screws can also be clamped with great force without any problems.

Conclusion.
The set is excellent, definitely worth the money, I strongly recommend it for purchase. They are pleasant to work with, and most importantly, disassembling and assembling devices with it will be really easier and more convenient, because the bits will not curl up on the very first device, and thanks to their length they will allow you to get to the head in the recess. I think it’s better to pay a little extra for this one than to buy cheaper ones one after another and constantly change them because of a loose handle or soft bits.
Pros:
High strength steel bits
- Comfortable metal handle with built-in extension
- Workmanship
- Convenient box made of durable plastic

Minuses:
- There are gaps, they don’t interfere with the work, but they are there and I can’t help but notice them
- Error in the configuration, instead of the T8 bit there was another PH0

The product was provided for writing a review by the store. The review was published in accordance with clause 18 of the Site Rules.

Analogues of Russian and foreign steels

The countries and their metal standards are listed below:

• Australia - AS (Australian Standard)
• Austria - ONORM
• Belgium - NBN
• Bulgaria - BDS
• Hungary - MSZ
• UK - B.S. (British Standard)
• Germany - DIN (Deutsche Normen), W.N.
• European Union - EN (European Norm)
• Italy - UNI (Italian National Standards)
• Spain - UNE (Espaniol National Standards)
• Canada - CSA (Canadian Standards Association)
• China - GB
• Norway - NS (Standards Norway)
• Poland - PN (Poland Norm)
• Romania - STAS
• Russia - GOST (State standard), THAT (Specifications)
• USA - AISI (American Iron and Steel Institute),ACI (American Concrete Institute),ANSI (American National Standards Institute), A.M.S. (American Mathematical Society: Mathematics Research and Scholarship),API (American Petroleum Institute), ASME (American Society of Mechanical Engineers),ASTM (American Society of Testing and Materials),AWS (American Welding Society),SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers), UNS
• Finland - SFS (Finnish Standards Association)
• France - AFNOR NF (association francaise de normalization)
• Czech Republic - CSN (Czech State Norm)
• Sweden - SS (Swedish Standard)
• Switzerland - SNV (Schweizerische Normen-Vereinigung)
• Yugoslavia - JUS
• Japan - JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard)
• International standard - ISO (International Organization for Standardization)

The United States uses several systems for naming metals and alloys, associated with existing standards organizations. The most famous organizations are:

• AISI - American Iron and Steel Institute
• ACI - American Casting Institute
• ANSI - American National Standards Institute
• AMS - Aerospace Materials Specification
• ASME - American Society of Mechanical Engineers
• ASTM - American Society for Testing and Materials
• AWS - American Welding Society
• SAE - Society of Automotive Engineers

Below are the most popular steel designation systems used in the United States.

AISI designation system:

Carbon and alloy steels:
In the AISI designation system, carbon and alloy steels are generally designated using four digits. The first two digits indicate the number of the steel group, and the last two indicate the average carbon content in the steel, multiplied by 100. So steel 1045 belongs to the group 10XX high-quality structural steels (non-sulfinated with a Mn content of less than 1%) and contains about 0.45% carbon.
Steel 4032 is doped (group 40XX), with an average content of C - 0.32% and Mo - 0.2 or 0.25% (real content of C in steel 4032 - 0.30 - 0.35%, Mo - 0.2 - 0.3%).
Steel 8625 is also doped (group 86ХХ) with an average content: C - 0.25% (real values ​​0.23 - 0.28%), Ni - 0.55% (0.40 - 0.70%), Cr - 0.50% (0.4 - 0.6%), Mo - 0.20% (0.15 - 0.25%) .
In addition to four numbers, steel names may also contain letters. At the same time, the letters B And L, meaning that the steel is alloyed with boron (0.0005 - 0.03%) or lead (0.15 - 0.35%), respectively, are placed between the second and third digits of its designation, for example: 51B60 or 15L48.
Letters M And E put the name of the steel in front, this means that the steel is intended for the production of non-responsible long products (letter M) or smelted in an electric furnace (letter E). There may be a letter at the end of the steel name H, meaning that a characteristic feature of this steel is hardenability.

Stainless steels:
The designation of standard stainless steels according to AISI includes three numbers followed by one, two or more letters in some cases. The first digit of the designation determines the steel class. So the designations of austenitic stainless steels begin with numbers 2XX And 3XX, while ferritic and martensitic steels are defined in class 4XX. Moreover, the last two digits, unlike carbon and alloy steels, are in no way related to chemical composition, but simply define serial number became in the group.

Designations in carbon steels:
10ХХ - Non-resulfinated steels, Mn: less than 1%
11ХХ - Resulfinated steels
12ХХ - Rephosphorized and resulfinated steels
15ХХ - Non-resulfinated steels, Mn: more than 1%

Designations in alloy steels:
13ХХ - Mn: 1.75%
40XX - Mo: 0.2, 0.25% or Mo: 0.25% and S: 0.042%
41ХХ - Cr: 0.5, 0.8 or 0.95% and Mo: 0.12, 0.20 or 0.30%
43ХХ - Ni: 1.83%, Cr: 0.50 - 0.80%, Mo: 0.25%
46ХХ - Ni: 0.85 or 1.83% and Mo: 0.2 or 0.25%
47XX - Ni: 1.05%, Cr: 0.45% and Mo: 0.2 or 0.35%
48ХХ - Ni: 3.5% and Mo: 0.25%
51ХХ - Cr: 0.8, 0.88, 0.93, 0.95 or 1.0%
51ХХХ - Cr: 1.03%
52ХХХ - Cr: 1.45%
61ХХ - Cr: 0.6 or 0.95% and V: 0.13% min or 0.15% min
86ХХ - Ni: 0.55%, Cr: 0.50% and Mo: 0.20%
87ХХ - Ni: 0.55%, Cr: 0.50% and Mo: 0.25%
88XX - Ni: 0.55%, Cr: 0.50% and Mo: 0.35%
92XX - Si: 2.0% or Si: 1.40% and Cr: 0.70%
50BXX - Cr: 0.28 or 0.50%
51BXX - Cr: 0.80%
81BXX - Ni: 0.30%, Cr: 0.45% and Mo: 0.12%
94BXX - Ni: 0.45%, Cr: 0.40% and Mo: 0.12%

The additional letters and numbers following the numbers used to designate AISI stainless steels mean:
xxxL- Low content carbon< 0.03%
xxxS - Normal carbon content< 0.08%
xxxN - Nitrogen added
xxxLN - Low carbon content< 0.03% + добавлен азот
xxxF- Increased content sulfur and phosphorus
xxxSe - Added selenium
xxxB - Added silicon
xxxH - Extended carbon content range
xxxCu - Copper added

Examples:
Steel 304 belongs to the austenitic class, the carbon content in it< 0.08%. В то же время в стали 304 L total carbon< 0.03%, а в стали 304H carbon is determined by the range 0.04 - 0.10%. The specified steel, in addition, can be alloyed with nitrogen (then its name will be 304 N) or copper ( 304 Cu).
In steel 410 belonging to the martensitic-ferritic class, carbon content<< 0.15%, а в стали 410 S- carbon< 0.08%. В стали 430F unlike steel 430 increased content of sulfur and phosphorus, and in steel 430 FSe Selenium has also been added.

ASTM designation system:

The designation of steels in the ASTM system includes:

• letter A, meaning that we are talking about ferrous metal;
• serial number of the ASTM regulatory document (standard);
• the actual designation of the steel grade.

Typically, ASTM standards adopt the American system of notation for physical quantities. In the same case, if the standard contains a metric notation system, a letter is placed after its number M. ASTM standards, as a rule, define not only the chemical composition of steel, but also a complete list of requirements for metal products. To designate the actual steel grades and determine their chemical composition, both ASTM’s own designation system can be used (in this case, the chemical composition of steels and their markings are determined directly in the standard), as well as other designation systems, for example AISI - for rods, wire, workpieces and etc., or ACI - for stainless steel castings.

Examples:
A 516 / A 516M - 90 Grade 70 Here A determines that we are talking about ferrous metal; 516 - this is the serial number of the ASTM standard ( 516M- this is the same standard, but in the metric notation system); 90 - year of publication of the standard; Grade 70- steel grade. In this case, ASTM's own steel designation system is used, here 70 defines the minimum tensile strength of steel in tensile tests (in ksi, which is about 485 MPa).
A 276 Type 304 L. This standard uses the steel grade designation in the AISI system - 304 L.
A 351 Grade CF8M. The ACI notation is used here: first letter C means that the steel belongs to the group of corrosion-resistant, 8 - determines the average carbon content in it (0.08%), M- means that molybdenum has been added to the steel.
A 335 / A 335M grade P22; A 213 / A 213M grade T22; A 336 / A 336M class F22. These examples use ASTM's own steel designation. The first letters mean that the steel is intended for the production of pipes ( P or T) or forgings ( F).
A 269 grade TP304. A combined notation system is used here. Letters TP determine that the steel is intended for the production of pipes, 304 is the designation of steel in the AISI system.

Universal notation system UNS:

UNS is a universal designation system for metals and alloys. It was created in 1975 to unify the various notation systems used in the United States. According to UNS, steel designations consist of a letter defining the steel group and five numbers.
The UNS system makes it easier to classify AISI steels. For structural and alloy steels included in the group G, the first four digits of the name are the steel designation in the AISI system, the last digit replaces the letters that appear in the AISI designations. So to the letters B And L, meaning that the steel is alloyed with boron or lead, corresponds to the numbers 1 And 4 , and the letter E, meaning that the steel was smelted in an electric furnace - the number 6 .
The names of AISI stainless steels begin with the letter S and include the AISI steel designation (the first three digits) and two additional digits corresponding to additional letters in the AISI designation.

Designations of steels in the UNS system:
Dxxxxx - Steels with prescribed mechanical properties
Gxxxxx - Carbon and alloy steels AISI (except tool steels)
Hxxxxx - The same, but for hardenable steels
Jxxxxx - Casting steels
Kxxxxx - Steels not included in the AISI system
Sxxxxx - Heat and corrosion resistant stainless steels
Txxxxx - Tool steels
Wxxxxx - Welding materials

The additional letters and numbers following the numbers used to designate UNS stainless steels mean:
xxx01 - Low carbon content< 0.03%
xxx08 - Normal carbon content< 0.08%
xxx09 - Extended carbon content range
xxx15 - Added silicon
xxx20 - Increased content of sulfur and phosphorus
xxx23 - Added selenium
xxx30 - Added copper
xxx51 - Added nitrogen
xxx53 - Low carbon content< 0.03% + добавлен азот

Examples:
Carbon steel 1045 has a designation in the system UNS G 10450, and alloy steel 4032 - G 40320.
Steel 51B60, doped with boron, is called in the system UNS G 51601, and steel 15L48, alloyed with lead, - G 15484.
Stainless steels are designated: 304 - S 30400, 304 L - S 30401, 304H - S 30409, A 304 Cu - S 30430.

steel grade			Analogues in US standards
CIS countries GOST	Euronorms
R0 M2 SF10-MP
R2 M10 K8-MP
R6 M5 K5-MP
R6 M5 F3-MP
R6 M5 F4-MP
R6 M5 F3 K8-MP
R10 M4 F3 K10-MP
R6 M5 F3 K9-MP
R12 M6 F5-MP
R12 F4 K5-MP
R12 F5 K5-MP

Structural steel:

steel grade			Analogues in US standards
CIS countries GOST	Euronorms

Basic range of stainless steel grades:

CIS (GOST)	Euronorms (EN)	Germany (DIN)	USA (AISI)
03 X17 N13 M2		X2 CrNiMo 17-12-2
03 X17 N14 M3		X2 CrNiMo 18-4-3
03 X18 N10 T-U
06 ХН28 MDT		X3 NiCrCuMoTi 27-23
08 X17 N13 M2		X5CrNiMo 17-13-3
08 X17 N13 M2 T		Х6 CrNiMoTi 17-12-2
		Х6 CrNiTi 18-10
20 Х25 Н20 С2		X56 CrNiSi 25-20
03 X19 N13 M3
02 X18 M2 BT
02 X28 N30 MDB		X1 NiCrMoCu 31-27-4
03 X17 N13 AM3		X2 CrNiMoN 17-13-3
03 X22 N5 AM2		X2 CrNiMoN 22-5-3
03 X24 N13 G2 S
08 X16 N13 M2 B		X1 CrNiMoNb 17-12-2
08 X18 N14 M2 B	1.4583 X10 CrNiMoNb	X10 CrNiMoNb 18-12
		X8 СrNiAlTi 20-20
		X3 CrnImOn 27-5-2
		Х6 CrNiMoNb 17-12-2
		Х12 CrMnNiN 18-9-5

Bearing steel:

steel grade			Analogues in US standards
CIS countries GOST	Euronorms

Spring steel:

steel grade			Analogues in US standards
CIS countries GOST	Euronorms

Heat resistant steel:

steel grade			Analogues in US standards
CIS countries GOST	Euronorms

Compliance between domestic and foreign standards for steel and pipes

Steel standards

Germany		European Union	ISO-standard	England	France	Italy	Russia
DIN 17200 SEW 550 SEW 555	heat-treated steel				NFA 35-552 EN 10083	UNI 7845 UNI 7874	GOST 4543-71
	case-hardened steel						GOST 4543-71
	hot rolled steel for annealed springs
	spring wire and steel tape of rustless steel
	ball bearing/trolley steel
	temperature and high temperature material grade for screws and nuts						GOST 5632-72
	forging and rolled or forged steel bar of temperature, weldable steel		ISO 2604/1 ISO/TR 4956
	tool steel including high-speed steel						GOST 1435 GOST 19265 GOST 5950
DIN 17440 SEW 400				BS 970/1 BS 1554-81 BS 1502-82 BS 1503-89		UNI 6900 UNI 6901	GOST 5632-72
	rustless steel for medical equipment
	rustless steel for surgical implant
	valve material grade						GOST 5632-72
	non-magnetic steel
SEW 470 DIN 17145	heat-resistant steel			BS 1554-81 BS 970/1		UNI 6900 UNI 6901	GOST 5632-72
	constructional steel