Pullover with raglan sleeves
Pullover with a straight silhouette, loose fit, long raglan sleeves, knitted with an openwork pattern. The front of the figure is decorated with embroidery.
Execution technology:
Back
Cast on the needles with an auxiliary thread 187 sts (KP: 13+3+2 cr.) and knit several rows (5-6).
We knit with a working thread in an openwork pattern, placing it symmetrically to the center of the part, right up to the armhole line RUR 119 Along the armhole line, we close 7 loops on both sides and knit 128 rubles further to the neck line, decreasing 1 loop on both sides along the raglan line: 58 times in each 2nd row and 4 times in the 3rd. Having finished knitting, remove 49 loops onto an auxiliary thread.
For the elastic at the bottom of the back, we hang the loops of the first working row, turning the part with the front side facing us and making a fit: you need to decrease 19 loops - we hang 2 loops 16 times on every 9th needle and 3 times on every 8th (8 p. on the 9th; 3 rubles on the 8th; On 168 needles we knit 36 rows straight and sew 1x1 rubber with a loop catcher. Close the open loops with a needle and thread.
TS .
On a machine with an attachment, knit the elastic band separately and transfer all the loops to the attachment. On the main font, we will hang the loops on the same number of needles, making a fit and turning the part to face itself. Let's transfer all the loops from the attachment to the needles of the main needle bar with the loops of the part and close all the loops in one row. If it turns out too voluminous, then you can first knit one smoothing row, and then bind off all the loops.
You can knit the elastic separately and kettle it, or connect the open loops of the elastic with the loops of the bottom of the piece with a horizontal knitted seam using a sewing needle.
Before
Along the armhole line, we close 7 sts of undercuts on both sides and knit further 120 r, making decreases on both sides along the raglan line: 1 loop 42 times in each 2nd row and 14 times in the 1st row.
Having knitted 98 rows from the armhole line, simultaneously with the raglan line we begin to cut the neckline with partial knitting. To do this, we push half of the needles into the PNP and knit on one side.
From the middle we push into PNP: 6+1 central needle, 5, 4, 2 times 3, 3 times 2 and 3 times 1 loop.
Having knitted one side, we return to the other half and knit similarly, but in a mirror image.
Having finished knitting, remove 61 neck loops onto an auxiliary thread.
We will decorate the bottom of the part with an elastic band, as well as the back.
Sleeve
Cast on the needles with an auxiliary thread 83 stitches (KP: 13+3+2 cr.) and knit several rows.
We knit with a working thread in an openwork pattern 147 r. to the armhole line, increasing on both sides by 1 loop: 21 times in every 3rd row and 21 times in every 4th row.
Along the armhole line, we close 7 undercut loops on both sides and then knit 128 r, making decreases along the raglan line, while making decreases according to the same calculations as on the back and front. Those. decrease on one side (back) 1 loop along the raglan line: 58 times in every 2nd row and 4 times in the 3rd, and on the other (front) 1 loop 42 times in every 2nd row and 14 times in 1st row.
Having knitted 120 rows, we continue decreasing along the back line, and on the front side we knit the neckline with partial knitting - we put it in PNP: 3 times 12 and 1 time 13 loops. Having knitted the sleeve, we knit the neck section with a working thread and remove the loops onto the auxiliary thread.
TS We knit the second sleeve in the same way, only in a mirror way.
For the elastic at the bottom of the sleeve, we hang the loops of the first working row on the machine needles, evenly decreasing 20 loops: we hang 2 loops 17 times on every 3rd needle and 3 times on every 4th needle. In this case, the part is turned to us with its front side.
We sweep away the parts and lightly steam them. We sew three raglan lines, and it is best to sew them from the front side with a vertical knitted seam. We will leave one raglan line - on the back - unsewn. We hang open neck loops on the needles of the machine, removing the auxiliary thread, while the fabric is turned to us with the front side. We knit 28 rows with a working thread and make a 1x1 elastic band, ending with an auxiliary thread. Kettle open loops to the neck.
TS. You can knit this way, only we knit the first row sparsely, and after completing the rib, it is best to immediately fasten the loops.
Those. lift the first (sparse) row onto the needles (hem) and knit 2 rows under the loop. Let's finish with an auxiliary thread. In this case, the kettle will turn out more accurately.
On a machine with an attachment, an elastic band can be knitted almost the same way, i.e. Having hung the open loops along the neckline on the machine needles, knit 1 row and disassemble the loops into two fonts for an elastic band. Next we knit according to the description.
You can make the elastic separately and then pin it to the neck or connect the open loops of the elastic and the open loops of the neck on a machine, as you did on the bottom of the parts.
Sew side seams and sleeve seams.
The front of the jumper can be additionally decorated with embroidery through the openwork into the girth.
"For those who knit", "Man", 1992
Wear it for your health!Knitting lesson on a knitting machine. We knit raglan on a knitting machine. We create a raglan line.
Products with raglan sleeves can be knitted in two ways: from the neckline from top to bottom and from bottom to top, separately knitting the details of the sleeves, fronts and back.
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We will look at the second method. We will reduce the loops of the raglan line so that it looks like a decorative finish of the finished product. To do this, we will decrease the loops not by 1 loop and often, but by several loops, but less often. |
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When calculating a knitting pattern with a raglan sleeve, it is indicated how many times, after how many rows and how many stitches to decrease. We will consider the option of decreasing 3 loops. |
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As you can see in the pattern, first there is a horizontal section of ~ 2 cm. Close the loops from the edge of the fabric, see lesson>> |
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Next comes the sloping section. According to the calculation of the knitting pattern, after closing the horizontal one, we knit 6 rows. Next, to decrease 3 loops, on both sides of the fabric we move the outermost 5 needles to the PNP (front non-working position). |
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We transfer the decker onto three needles inside the canvas. The photo shows the left side of the knitting. We move the decker from left to right. We hang the loops from the decker on the needles. We remove the decker, push the three freed needles into the RNP (rear non-working position). |
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On the opposite side of the knitting we repeat the above operations. |
When the loops on both sides of the knitting have been moved, continue knitting until the next decrease. The number of decreases and the rows in which they need to be made are included in the knitting calculation. Due to the fact that the loops are removed inside the fabric, the raglan line is smooth.
Girls, here we will build and knit raglan. My name is Sasha, contact me. I kindly ask you to maintain a friendly atmosphere in the dark. I am always open to dialogue, I am not offended, I take criticism calmly, I can explain why I do things one way or another.
In general, according to the rules, the study of raglan begins after the set-in sleeve has been mastered.
In general, according to the rules, the study of raglan begins after the set-in sleeve has been mastered. Since raglan’s “legs grow” from there. But that’s how it turned out for us. Many of you have already seen many ways of constructing patterns, but they are all similar. In almost all patterns for constructing a mesh of the shoulder base-pattern, we see Half chest circumference + 4 cm Loose fit. But these patterns use “halves” of the shelf and back, to which we add 4 cm of CO. 8 cm will already be added to the total volume. This is a lot, this is really a lot. Very large increases are given everywhere, but for normal armholes. This is the fashion of the 70-80s. This little bag, a little incomprehensible, is tied around the neck. Now a lot has changed in clothing, but not the increase in CO in patterns. That's why many people can't knit using them. Knitted with a line and a bow on the side. It’s just that the way I look at clothes is different. The darts are all trimmed down; we’ll look at them in detail later.
First, a little explanation of the abbreviations we will use.
OG-chest girth
POG-half chest grasp
VH-chest height
LlL-shoulder length
OR-arm circumference
OZ-wrist circumference
OSH-neck girth.
CO-freedom of fit.
Increases in CO for different silhouettes.
Adjacent: to OG 0-2cm, to OR 0-3cm
Semi-adjacent: to OG 3-4cm, to OR 3-5cm
Free: to OG 6-8cm, to OP 5-10cm
Very loose, oversized: to OG from 12cm, to OP from 10cm.
Girls, now we take measurements of OS, OG, DlPl, Arm length, OR and OZ. For now this is enough for us.
DlPl-measure both shoulders. Most likely you have them of different lengths, a difference of 0.5 cm is the norm. But there is a difference of 1 cm, like mine. Therefore, we measure both shoulders.
Arm length - arm straight, not bent, not flexed, not hunched over. Straight. Otherwise, your bent arm will end up with a sizeable bubble in the elbow area.
We've decided on the measurements. An example of construction on a women's semi-fitted straight cut silhouette. We add 3-4 cm to the OS so that the head passes. This is if we make a neckline or a golf neckline. If there is a cutout, then 0-2cm. We divide our OR + increase into 3 parts. We take 1/3 for the back and the shelf, divide 1/3 by 2 = we get the neck of the sleeve. Now we are looking for our armhole. We calculate it as POG/3+6. We put the resulting number down from the neck. If you are going for a looser silhouette, the armhole needs to be deepened. For a loose silhouette we go deeper by 1-2cm, for a very loose silhouette we go 2-4cm deeper, sometimes even deeper. Along the armhole on the back we raise it by 2 cm = this is for normal people. For a stooped back 3cm or more. It depends on the degree of stoop. I raise it by 3.5 cm. In summer clothes and light ones by 3 cm. It seems like the difference is 0.5 cm, but how does it feel? You will simply have a steeper bevel at the sleeve neck. Now the neck of the shelf. This is where many people stumble. And I stumbled on it too. The depth of the neckline is 1/6ОШ+1.5cm. But part of the neck is in our sleeve, or rather in half the neck of the sleeve. Here half of the sleeve neck needs to be subtracted from 1/6ОШ+1.5cm. This will be our neck shelf. We figure it out and draw and count. It's all not difficult at all. I never draw for myself at all. I just have a calculator on my desk. I determined the width and went to knit and count as I went.
I will upload the girls gradually. It’s just not possible to write everything at once. Now I’ll draw a picture to explain about the undercuts and darts.
My "doodle"
I would like to stop at OS. I still recommended adding 2cm to the OS. Since we raise the raglan line of the back to the height of the sprout, but continue to decrease along the raglan line, then accordingly our neck will be narrower than the neck of the shelf. As practice shows, a sprout 3-3.5 cm high takes up approximately 2 cm of the width of the back neck. That is, if your shelf neck is 12cm, then the back will be 10cm.
If we do not initially add 2cm to the OS, we will get a neckline smaller than the OS measurement.
Undercuts must be made. If you don’t do it, you’ll end up with extra fabric under your armpit and it will be generally uncomfortable. Raise your hand straight up in front of the mirror. What do you see? does your hand extend from your armpit into a triangle? No. Therefore, it is necessary to make an undercut. Up to size 48, a 2cm undercut is more than enough. Next 3cm.
Darts. In the picture I showed you two tuck solutions. I'm working with the first option. It's simpler. To use the second option, you need to accurately take measurements: Back Length to Waist and Front Length to Waist. The measurements are not simple. Those who sew will understand.
My friend works as a technologist at a knitting factory. They work according to GOST standards. So they determine the tuck solution based on the bust size. I won’t go into too much detail there, but I liked this method. The dart opening is equal to the bust size. The main condition here is a full-fledged tuck, as in sewing products. That is, you gradually remove the needles from work and introduce them in the same order. I’ll say right away that I haven’t worked with large-sized clothes, and I don’t know how applicable this method can be. The maximum I've worn is women's size 50. To determine the location of the dart, you need the Bust Height and Bust Center Distance measurements. If you use the second version of the dart, then its solution will be equal to the difference between the length of the back and the length of the front to the waist. The tuck opening should not reach 1-2 cm to the nipple.
That's it, see you tomorrow. Let's digest this.
While we knit samples, iron, steam, squeeze, wash. We do a loop test. Without an accurate and correct stitch test, even the most accurate and proven patterns will not help.
Size 50-52
You will need:
- 500 g of section-dyed yarn in blue tones Vita-Caprice (100% wool, 100 g/400 m. color 2553);
- zipper 25 cm long.
Stockinette stitch, ribbing 2x2.
Machine test: 29 stitches x 42 rows = 10 x 10 cm, knitted in stockinette stitch on a Brother knitting machine at gauge 8.
Attention! The jumper is made on a Brother knitting machine at 8 count.
Description of knitting a sweater
Back
Put 164 needles into work, sort the stitches on two elastic needle beds and knit 30 rows at 4/4 density, reset the counter. Transfer the loops from the front font to the back and knit at gauge 8 in stockinette stitch. Having knitted 148 rows according to the counter, for raglan, close on both sides in each 2nd row 1 time 12 stitches, then decrease with a 3-needle decker on both sides, stepping back from the edge by 7 stitches (raglan line), in each 2- m row 4 times for 2 sts, then in every 4th row 23 times for 2 sts. Having knitted 250 rows according to the counter, close the remaining 32 loops without tightening the edge.
Before
Knit like a back. Having knitted 230 rows according to the counter, to cut the neckline, divide the work in half and knit, closing 8 of each 2nd row 1 time 7 p., 4 times 4 p.
Left sleeve
Put 92 needles into work, sort the stitches on two elastic needle beds and knit 24 rows at 4/4 density, reset the counter. Transfer the loops from the front font to the back and knit at density 8 with stockinette stitch, adding sleeves on both sides for bevels in every 5th row 36 times, 1 p. Having knitted 184 rows according to the counter, for raglan, close on both sides in every 2- m row 1 time 12 p., then decrease with a 3-needle decker on the left side (front side), stepping back from the edge 7 p. (raglan line), in each 2nd row 7 times 2 p., then in every 4th row 19 times for 2 sts, and on the right side (from the back), in every 2nd row 9 times for 2 sts, then in every 4th row 21 times for 2 sts. Knitting 278 rows according to the counter, to bevel the upper part of the sleeve, close on the left side in every 2nd row 1 time 18 p., 5 times 2 p.
Right sleeve
Knit mirror image to the left one.
Collar
Turn on the work of 172 needles, sort the loops on two needle beds for the elastic band and knit 70 rows at a density of 4/4, finishing with an auxiliary thread.
Assembly
Steam the parts. Sew the raglan seams, leaving one of the front seams unsewn. Pin the open loops of the collar to the neckline. Sew in the zipper. Sew side seams and sleeve seams.
Many years ago I knitted myself a jumper. It turned out to be a success. I wore it with a bang, until... Until my daughter took it away. For a long time he lived at her disposal. And then my fashionista asked me to knit her the same one, but almost different. Funny?
So, what is the difference between two “identical” jumpers? The difference is in color, the presence of a pattern on one of them and the processing of the bottom, sleeves and neck. There is only one pattern. Jumper to the middle of the buttocks, long raglan sleeves.
You can knit such a jumper on any single-font machine. The second font is not useful when knitting this jumper. Density 10x10 cm = 30 loops x 44 rows. For Inalsa IK-828, this is about a four. So:
Density at Inalsa IK-828: 4
Density 10x10 cm = 30 loops x 44 rows
Size: 44
Height: 164-172
Yarn: Summer acrylic, also known as "".
Subsequence:
1. Knit the front and back using a stockinette stitch according to the pattern in Fig. 1. The diagram shows rows and loops related to the back in parentheses. That is, for the front you need to cast on 70+70 loops, for the back 72+72 loops. Having knitted 210 rows, I recommend making notes (helpers) with yarn of any other color. These notes will help you avoid mistakes when assembling the product. When decreasing loops on raglan, I recommend decreasing not the outermost loops, but connecting the fourth and fifth loops from the edge of the fabric into one, while placing the fourth loop from the edge under the fifth. I recommend doing the same when decreasing the stitches on the sleeves. Then in the end the raglan seam will look like in the photo.
2. Knit two sleeves using stockinette stitch according to the pattern in Fig. 2. The left and right sleeves are not the same. They are knitted in a mirror image, taking into account the fact that the number of rows on the back is greater than on the front. Figure 2 shows the back side and the front side. Having knitted 230 rows, I also recommend making notes with yarn of a different color to make it easier to assemble the product. Let me remind you that the sleeve is very long. If you don’t like this, then up to the 200th row you should add one loop to the left and right in 8 rows, and not in 10 rows, as shown in the diagram. Then the sleeve will become shorter.
4. Connect the side seams.
5. Crochet the bottom, sleeves and neckline with three rows of single crochets, hide the knots and threads.
