The first fortified structures on a high river bank at the confluence of the Loire and Toue were built in the 10th century by the Count of Blois, Thibault I-Klut. The fort was intended for defense against Norman raids. The famous "Black Falcon" Fulk Nerra took possession of Fort Saumur in 1026. After Nerra, the fortress was inherited by the Plantagenets, and in 1203 Philip August […]
The first fortified structures on a high river bank at the confluence Loire and Tue built a count in the 10th century Blois, Thibault I-Dodger. The fort was intended for defense against Norman raids.
The famous "Black Falcon" Fulk Nerra took possession of Fort Saumur in 1026. After Nerra, the fortress was inherited Plantagenets, and in 1203 Philip August annexed it to the possessions of France.
In 1227-30. grandson of Philip Augustus Louis IX Saint built a new castle. Saumur (Château de Saumur) at that time it had the shape of an irregular quadrangle with powerful fortified towers at the corners. (The remains of the ancient foundations are today visible at the foot of the western and northern towers.)
Louis of Anjou, brother of King Charles V, was the owner of the castle in 1367. He decided to change the old building and turn it from a gloomy fortress into a residence for relaxation. The old round towers were demolished, and new polygonal towers with faceted slate roofs were erected on the surviving foundations.
Since that time, Saumur acquired a sublime romantic appearance. René of Anjou, the grandson of Louis I, known for his poetic talents, called Saumur the "Castle of Love".
During the reconstruction period of 1454-72. René made repairs to the old buildings, restored two towers and built a new staircase in the eastern part of the castle. Italian architect Bartolomeo in the 16th century he surrounded the building with bastions built in the form of a star.
Since the death of René of Anjou (1480), the castle again belonged to the French crown. Henry of Navarre appointed commandant and head of the garrison of the fortress Philippe Duplessis-Mornay- A staunch Protestant. (In 1593 Mornay set up a Protestant academy at Saumur.)
After the abolition of the Edict of Nantes, which gave the Protestants freedom of religion, Saumur's prosperity ended. In 1621, Louis XIII appointed a new Catholic commandant in Saumur. The castle became a prison for prisoners of noble birth for two centuries. The regime of their detention was mild - they were even allowed to go out into the city. Among the prisoners of that time were Marquis de Sade and the treacherous admiral Kerguelen.
Since 1811, a new restoration began in Saumur. Within three years, the northeast wing of the building was divided into cells, but soon the new government ordered the release of all prisoners.
For some time there was a warehouse of military ammunition in the castle. In 1889, Saumur was granted the status of a historical monument.
In 1906, the city authorities of Saumur bought the castle for 2.5 thousand francs. The idea of its restoration belonged to the leadership of the Academy of Fine Arts. During the repair, the remains of large fireplaces, enameled tiles, stained-glass windows of the chapel were found.
In the center of the fortress, there used to be a square donjon - only the contour of the foundation remained from it. The western wing, in which the main hall was located, is completely destroyed today. In the northwestern part of the courtyard, the main staircase has been preserved. The facade of the south wing was restored in all details according to old images.
Since 1912, the northeast wing has housed Municipal Museum. It contains collections of sculpture, household items, furniture and ceramics. Here you can see products from the famous Limoges enamel, plaster and wooden sculptures, paintings and tapestries, a collection of old French porcelain from the workshops of Marseille, Rouen, Nimes and Nevers. (Products from Nevers are made in yellow and blue; samples of Marseille porcelain are made in the traditional rococo style.) There is also a historical exposition of the castle of Saumur in the Museum.
On the third floor of the building is equestrian museum. (Saumur is home to the world-famous equestrian school-club Cadre Noir, observing the ancient traditions of teaching.) The museum is dedicated to the history of the horse and the art of riding at different times. Its exposition presents samples of harness and harness; horse care items, a model of Cadre Noir, whose pupils defended Saumur in 1940. There is also a collection of 18th-century engravings dedicated to the horse - the work of the English artist Stubbs.
During the two summer months, the Château de Saumur hosts a historical performance every evening called: Treasures of the Counts of Anjou.
49400 Saumur France
chateau-saumur.com
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About the castle
Saumur Castle is one of the most beautiful and famous castles in the Loire. It is located in the department of Maine and Loire, at the confluence of the rivers Loire and Toue. Saumur Castle has the appearance of an irregular quadrangle, at the corners of which there are round towers. The western and southern towers still retain the masonry of the 13th century. The eastern tower has been restored, its vault is decorated with the coats of arms of the Anjou family. The ancient and magnificent Saumur, with its white towers and walls, sets the tone for the architecture of the entire city, rising above it.
This castle is so beautiful that the king-poet René the Good (of Anjou) chose it to describe the castle of Love in his novel A Heart Captivated by Love. This castle was built on an emerald rock. The walls of the castle were made of pure crystal, and at the end of each wall stood a tower made of ruby stones that burned with a bright light. The towers were covered with platinum, and the house itself was covered with tiles of pure gold, on which the motto of the God of love was painted in enamel: "To the trembling heart." This is how King Rene described Saumur - one of the legendary castles of France.
History of the castle
In the heart of France, among vineyards and lush green meadows, the ancient town of Saumur lives its quiet and measured life. Its name comes from the Latin "sol murus", which means "small fort in the marshes".
The Count of Anjou recaptured this fortress from Tybalt the Sly (Count de Blois). He completed the then still weak tower, expanded it, strengthened it. The fort was then rebuilt by Geoffroy Plantagenet. And in 1203, Philip Augustus included Saumur Castle in the royal lands.
According to historians, during the regency of Blanca of Castile, a powerful fortress was erected on the site of the fort so that the French Crown could regain Angers and Anjou, lost during the conclusion of the Vendôme Treaty. Saumur was a military fortress for a short time - only two years from the time of construction.
In 1360, Louis I of Anjou received Saumur in possession, and through his efforts the old, rough fortress acquires the features of a country castle. The duke did not demolish the legacy of his ancestors, but decided only to make his own adjustments. He used the old building plan, without changing, but only supplementing it. On the basis of round towers, he ordered the construction of polygonal towers, providing them with high buttresses that would support a sentinel belt with notched hinged loopholes. The next change came to Saumur in 1454. According to the quartermaster's records and accounts, which are kept in the National Archives, we can say that work was carried out in the castle in 1454 - 1472. Their scale and grandiosity can be judged by the funds spent. From the early buildings, only two small vaulted rooms, located in a square tower, a chapel on the second floor and an alley going from a steep slope to the tower, remained.
In 1480, after the death of King Rene, the Duchy of Anjou passed into the possession of the French Crown. The castle houses the royal garrison.
A century later, in connection with the Reformation, the fate of Saumur changes dramatically. Religious wars, due to the intrigues of the League and the intrigues of Spain, forced Henry III to ask for help from the king of Navarre. In Tours, an agreement was signed that Henry III cedes the castle of Saumur to the King of Navarre. The future Henry IV gave the military leadership of the fortress to his friend and ambassador Philippe Duplessis-Mornay.
In 1589, on April 15, Duplessis-Mornay brings his garrison into the castle. A day later, the King of Navarre arrives in Saumur. He, rejoicing at the fact that he received such a "tidbit" of the Loire, gives the order to the new governor to strengthen this place. To do this, the engineer of King Bartolomeo arrives in the fortress, he is instructed to "sparingly on nothing" to draw up a project for the castle and bring it to life. He builds city fortifications, a fortress wall with battlements and watchtowers, which still encircles the castle.
Arriving in Saumur Morne with his family settled in the city house number 45 on the Grand Rue. But in 1596, he decides to settle in the castle because of a conspiracy of the townspeople, who threatened the ambassador to seize him and inflict reprisals. To bring the castle into a habitable condition, Duplessis-Mornay had to spend a considerable amount, but these costs paid off. An experienced diplomat and former military man, Mornay was also a learned theologian. And in 1593 he created a Protestant academy in the castle, which brought fame to the city for a century.
Despite the fact that Mornay was loyal to the Crown, in 1621 he falls out of favor. Louis XIII replaces him as a Catholic ruler and from then on Saumur ceases to play an important political and military role. For two centuries it becomes a prison.
As a prison, the castle of Saumur gained great fame. People of noble birth and rank were kept here, who ended up in prison on secret denunciations. As a rule, these prisoners enjoyed a free regime - they were allowed to have a servant or a small retinue, they could visit the city. Very often these gentlemen were invited to the table of the Lieutenant of His Highness the King, who "ruled" the settlement.
It is worth noting some of the people who visited the castle-prison. Admiral Kerguelen was serving a sentence here for four years because he left his ship with people on board on the high seas. The Marquis de Sade, famous for his debauchery, stayed here for two weeks before he was sent to the prison of Pierre-Ancis. In 1779, during the American War of Independence, 800 British prisoners languished in the castle. Most of them were sailors, which is proved by the signatures left on the walls and the image of the ships.
In 1811-1814, restoration work was carried out in the castle. At this time, the entire northeast wing was divided into cells, as the engineer was ordered not to forget that there should be many isolated rooms in the prison. As soon as the prison began to work, the provisional government ordered the release of all prisoners to freedom.
At the beginning of the 20th century, the city of Saumur bought the castle from the state for 2,500 francs (an insignificant amount) and decided to restore it. This idea was implemented at the expense of the city and the administration of the Academy of Fine Arts.
It was during the restoration that large fireplaces, a stained-glass window of the chapel, enameled tiles, a coin depicting Louis XIV were discovered.
Unfortunately, the restoration, which was carried out very carefully and painstakingly, could not recreate the splendor and elegance that were inherent in Saumur of the 14th century.
In 1912, the Municipal Museum was opened on the second floor of the castle. The third floor is occupied by the Equestrian Museum.
Tourist information
Schedule:
April 01-June 30 and September 01-November 03: 10:00-13:00 / 14:00-17:30 (from Tuesday to Sunday)
July 01-August 31: 10:00-18:00 (from Tuesday to Sunday)
Entrance fees:
Adult - €3
Children from 7 to 16 years old - €2.50
Children under 7 years old - free of charge.
The address: France, city of Saumur
Start of construction: 10th century
Completion of construction: 16th century
Coordinates: 47°15′25″N,0°4′21″W
Main attractions: southern and western towers (XIII century), castle museums, interior decoration of the castle
Speaking of the beautiful and unusual architectural masterpieces located in the picturesque Loire Valley, one cannot fail to single out the castle of Saumur. The castle, which outwardly resembles a sorcerer's dwelling or a house with many ghosts.
Despite its unique, one might even say, fabulous and slightly intimidating appearance, people inhabited by supernatural abilities have never lived in this building and signs of paranormal activity have never been recorded. In fairness, it should be noted that Saumur makes a gloomy impression only from a distance, when approaching him, you realize that one of the most beautiful architectural structures rises in front of you, which has become a model for all buildings in the city of the same name.
View of the castle of Saumur from the river Loire
To visit the castle of Saumur, the traveler should go to the French department of Maine and Loire, to the place where the waters of the legendary Loire and Thue merge. This territory is considered the center of France, affectionately referred to by many guides as the "heart of the country". It is no coincidence that an unusual castle was built among the virgin nature, with a difficult history and its secrets, which, unfortunately, have not been revealed by modern scientists. It is only known for certain that the name of the city and the castle came from the Latin phrase, which, translated into Russian, would mean "a small fort among the swamps." Due to its unusual architectural form and interesting history, Saumur Castle is one of the most visited attractions of the Loire Valley.
Almost every day, even when the sky is covered with clouds, near the structure, which has the shape of an irregular quadrangle, you can always meet numerous groups of tourists who want to touch the world of beauty and see a real masterpiece built according to the official version of historians in the 10th century. Looking ahead a little, I would like to note that it is not known for certain when a “small fort among the swamps” appeared in this area.
View of the southeast side of the castle of Saumur
Archaeologists who excavated near the castle claim that the first building appeared here much earlier, however, historians are accustomed to relying only on official documents that date back to the 10th century. This is the history of the castle of Saumur, which deserves special attention and which should definitely be discussed in more detail. By the way, many tourists quite often ask themselves the question: “Why is there so much in the literature and on numerous Internet resources about the history of the castles of the Loire Valley?”. Surprisingly, there is nothing in this, because it was in them that the most significant events for the country took place, and it was within their walls that the formation of France took place.
Saumur castle: history
As mentioned above, according to the official version, the first building on the site where Saumur Castle is now located appeared in the 10th century. The documents say that Count Tybalt the Sly of the famous de Blois dynasty built a monastery and a fortress in the place where the Loire and the Toue merge.
The small fort was supposed to protect the peace of the monks who had left the worldly life forever and devoted themselves to serving God. The fortress did not help: already at the end of the 10th, beginning of the 11th centuries, the buildings were conquered by the Count of Anjou. Furthermore, in 1203, the already significantly expanded castle of Saumur became part of the lands belonging to the king.
View of the entrance to the castle and the south tower
After the signing of the Treaty of Vendome, which resulted in the loss of Anjou and Angers by France, Blanca of Castile decided to rebuild the castle into an impregnable fortress. However, already in 1360, Louis I decided to equip Saumur in a luxurious country residence. By order of the crowned person, the architect decided not to demolish the fortifications, but only to ennoble them and supplement them with decorative elements. For this reason, the castle began to resemble a unique combination of a palace and a powerful fortification.
True, the most ambitious work on the building in the Loire Valley was carried out in the period 1454 to 1473. Almost all the old buildings were demolished: from the palace-fortress there was only a room where prayers were offered to God and two rooms in a square tower. What Saumur looked like in those days, one can only guess. The thing is that in 1589 the King of Navarre again rebuilt the castle into a fortress. The court engineer Bartolomeo, spending colossal sums from the treasury, erects a huge fortress wall with high towers, in which soldiers from the royal garrison kept watch. By the way, the wall built under the leadership of Bartolomeo still “protects” the courtyard of Saumur Castle from prying eyes.
Entrance to the Castle of Saumur
Saumur Castle was constantly rebuilt and changed its owners, and since 1621 it has become, like many fortress castles ... a prison. True, this prison was somewhat unusual: it did not have gloomy dungeons and rooms for torture. In the rooms of the castle, in excellent conditions, criminals who fell out of favor with the king served their sentences. Counts and dukes from the legendary dynasties were not limited in their movement, moreover, they often attended receptions and social events, while being considered prisoners of the castle of Saumur. The famous admiral Kerguelen managed to visit the "dungeons" of the amazing castle of the Loire Valley. For two weeks in an architectural masterpiece, which managed to visit a monastery, a fortress and a palace, the famous Marquis de Sade was serving a sentence for his dissolute behavior and seduction of court beauties.
The first restoration work in the castle was carried out in 1814: the architects “equipped” new chambers in the northeast wing of Saumur. Surprisingly, as soon as all work on the restoration of the prison-fort was completed, the provisional government of France issued a decree stating that all prisoners of the castle should be immediately released. Since the end of the 19th century, Saumur Castle was no longer considered a fortress or a prison: it was included in the list ... of French historical sites to be protected.
View of the southern and eastern round towers of the castle
The 20th century has come: the authorities of the city of the same name decide to buy their main attraction from the state. The government of the country went to meet Saumur and transferred to his possession an amazing castle for only 2,500 francs.
After such a joyful event, the local Academy of Fine Arts decides to restore the castle once again. During the work carried out, experts discovered many unique interior items in the cellars and secret rooms: beautiful fireplaces made by the best craftsmen back in the 14th century, stained glass decoration of the chapel, which by that time was considered irretrievably lost. After the completion of the restoration, the Municipal Museum was opened on the second floor of Saumur.
Castle of Saumur: a brief reminder to the tourist
If a traveler decides to visit the legendary and world-famous Loire Valley for its castles, he should definitely see Saumur. Its amazing architectural forms will delight any guest of the country. Today, only the eastern tower of the castle is a copy: the southern and western towers are original architectural masterpieces built back in the 13th century.
Another unusual Loire castle - Saumur Castle - stands out among others with an interesting approach to the design of turrets.
As is the case with most castles in the Loire, many events also took place here, from the construction of a small wooden fortress by Thibaut Plut de Blois, almost immediately captured by Fulk Nerra, and ending with the construction of the fortress of Geoffroy Plantagenet, on the ruins of which the castle of Louis IX was subsequently built, from which, in fact, the history of the castle of Saumur began.
In 1203, these lands passed into the possession of Philip-Augustus. Initially, the castle was intended to protect the lands from attacks, but literally a couple of years later it was relieved of this function by the castle of Angers built in the neighborhood, which overcame this burden.
The four corners of the castle of Saumur were crowned with round towers, the western and southern of which are almost completely preserved to this day. Saumur began to turn into a refined royal residence in the XIV century, through the efforts of Louis I of Anjou. Moreover, the king did not destroy the heritage of his ancestors, but only gave the castle more regular shapes, replacing the round towers with polygonal ones and decorating them with high buttresses supporting a jagged sentinel belt.
The grandson of King René of Anjou continued the work of his grandfather and allocated unprecedented sums for the beautification of the castle, and later, inspired by the sight of the finished castle, sang it in his novel "Hearts Captivated by Love" as a castle of Love. Unfortunately, only a small fraction of what King René built has come down to us.
Since then, the castle has twice housed the royal garrisons, and after the transfer of Saumur into the hands of the king of Navarre, the castle turned into an almost impregnable fortress, having acquired a battlement with watchtowers, most of which also did not survive to our times, because. at the end of the 16th century, the castle almost completely turned into ruins.
In the XVII-XVIII centuries, the castle of Saumur served as a prison for high-ranking officials, who, however, hardly felt strongly disadvantaged, because. they had the right to travel to the city, have a small retinue and even dine with His Majesty's Lieutenant. For example, in 1768, the notorious Marquis de Sade was kept here for two weeks before being transferred to the Pierre Ancis prison.
View of the medieval bridge and Saumur castle.
And this is a view of the fortress from that very bridge.
During the American War of Independence, about 800 prisoners of war were kept in the walls of the castle, as evidenced by the wall inscriptions and drawings left by them.
At the end of the 19th century, the castle of Saumur was included in the list of historical monuments of France, and in 1912 it was converted into a museum, for which in 1906 fairly large-scale restoration work was started, which, however, still could not return the castle to all its former greatness. But even such a partial restoration allowed Saumur to make an unforgettable impression on visitors.
http://lifeglobe.net/
Speaking of the beautiful and unusual architectural masterpieces located in the picturesque Loire Valley, one cannot fail to single out the castle of Saumur. The castle, which outwardly resembles a sorcerer's dwelling or a house with many ghosts. Despite its unique, one might even say fabulous and slightly intimidating appearance,
Saumur Castle in France, people inhabited by supernatural abilities have never lived in this building and signs of paranormal activity have never been recorded. In fairness, it should be noted that Saumur makes a gloomy impression only from a distance, when approaching him, you realize that one of the most beautiful architectural structures rises in front of you, which has become a model for all buildings in the city of the same name.
Saumur Castle has the appearance of an irregular quadrangle, at the corners of which there are round towers. The western and southern towers still retain the masonry of the 13th century. The eastern tower has been restored, its vault is decorated with the coats of arms of the Anjou family. The ancient and magnificent Saumur, with its white towers and walls, sets the tone for the architecture of the entire city, rising above it.
The grandson of Louis I, Rene, who went down in history as a poet king, sings of Saumur as a castle of Love, not stinting on colorful epithets.
This castle is so beautiful that King René the Good (of Anjou) chose it to describe the castle of Love in his novel A Heart Captivated by Love. This castle was built on an emerald rock. The walls of the castle were made of pure crystal, and at the end of each wall stood a tower made of ruby stones that burned with a bright light. The towers were covered with platinum, and the house itself was covered with tiles of pure gold, on which the motto of the God of love was painted in enamel: "To the trembling heart." This is how King Rene described Saumur - one of the legendary castles of France.
The castle at this moment rises above the city, rushes high turrets and chimneys made of white stone into the sky. The beauty of the castle dominating the city even sets the tone for the architecture of all other buildings. From the buildings of the times of King Rene, very little has been preserved. There are only two vaulted rooms located in the tower adjacent to the main one, a chapel decorated with sculpted coats of arms on the vault. After the death of King Rene in 1480, the castle again becomes the property of the crown and a military garrison is placed in it. 
In the heart of France, among vineyards and lush green meadows, the ancient town of Saumur lives its quiet and measured life. Its name comes from the Latin "sol murus", which means "small fort in the marshes".
The history of this place is shrouded in mist. It is authentically known that in the X century Comte de Blois built a small monastery and a military fort here. From this moment begins the history of the castle of Saumur.
The first owners of the castle: Counts of Blois and Louis 1 of Anjou
As mentioned above, according to the official version, the first building on the site where Saumur Castle is now located appeared in the 10th century. The documents say that Count Tybalt the Sly of the famous de Blois dynasty built a monastery and a fortress in the place where the Loire and the Toue merge.
The Count of Anjou recaptured this fortress from Tybalt the Sly (Count de Blois). He completed the then still weak tower, expanded it, strengthened it. The fort was then rebuilt by Geoffroy Plantagenet.
And in 1203, Philip Augustus included Saumur Castle in the royal lands.
According to historians, during the regency of Blanca of Castile, a powerful fortress was erected on the site of the fort so that the French Crown could regain Angers and Anjou, lost during the conclusion of the Vendôme Treaty. Saumur was a military fortress for a short time - only two years from the time of construction.
In 1360, Louis I of Anjou received Saumur in possession, and through his efforts the old, rough fortress acquires the features of a country castle. He greatly ennobles the castle, which looks like an irregular quadrangle with towers at the corners. So, the fortress towers, which had a cylinder at the base, are erected by his order as octagonal. 
Two of the existing towers have preserved masonry dating back to the 13th century, and the East Tower inside is richly decorated and decorated with images of the coats of arms of the Dukes of Anjou. It should be noted that Louis does not destroy what was created by his predecessors, but somehow ennobles the structure and gives it elegance. 
For example, the buttresses of the towers support a sentinel belt, also made at a very high artistic level. Construction has been going on for quite some time. Since 1454, huge money was invested in the construction at that time.
The next change came to Saumur in 1454.
According to the quartermaster's records and accounts, which are kept in the National Archives, we can say that work was carried out in the castle in 1454 - 1472. Their scale and grandiosity can be judged by the funds spent. From the early buildings, only two small vaulted rooms, located in a square tower, a chapel on the second floor and an alley going from a steep slope to the tower, remained. 
René of Anjou and second wife Jeanne de Laval. Diptych by Nicolas Fromand. 1475-80. Louvre. Paris
In 1480, after the death of King Rene, the Duchy of Anjou passed into the possession of the French Crown. The castle houses the royal garrison.
But in the next century, after the Reformation, the fate of the castle changed dramatically again. In the context of aggravated religious differences, Saumur Castle is transferred to King Henry IV, King of Navarre, whose help the French king needed. He immediately entrusts the leadership of the castle to his ambassador, Philippe Duplessis-Mornay, who immediately brings his troops into the castle.
Heinrich! At Navarre (right) and Philippe Duplessis-Mornay (left)
Moreover, Henry IV considers the castle as an important outpost for his further advance into the Loire Valley, and gives the order to immediately begin to strengthen the fortress, regardless of the costs. Under the guidance of the engineer Bartolomeo, a fortress wall with bastions grows, which still exists today. Duplessis-Mornay was not only a military man devoted to the king, but also an outstanding theologian of his time. He glorified the castle also by the fact that in 1593 he built a Protestant academy, which was famous throughout the country for almost a century. 
In 1589, on April 15, Duplessis-Mornay brings his garrison into the castle. A day later, the King of Navarre arrives in Saumur. He, rejoicing at the fact that he received such a "tidbit" of the Loire, gives the order to the new governor to strengthen this place. To do this, the engineer of King Bartolomeo arrives in the fortress, he is instructed to "sparingly on nothing" to draw up a project for the castle and bring it to life. He builds city fortifications, a fortress wall with battlements and watchtowers, which still encircles the castle.
Arriving in Saumur Morne with his family settled in the city house number 45 on the Grand Rue. But in 1596, he decides to settle in the castle because of a conspiracy of the townspeople, who threatened the ambassador to seize him and inflict reprisals. To bring the castle into a habitable condition, Duplessis-Mornay had to spend a considerable amount, but these costs paid off. An experienced diplomat and former military man, Mornay was also a learned theologian. And in 1593 he created a Protestant academy in the castle, which brought fame to the city for a century.
Duplessis-Mornay ran the castle for over thirty years. But, despite his devotion to the crown, he nevertheless fell into disfavor because of his religious views and in 1621 he was replaced by order of Louis XIII with a Catholic ruler. From that moment on, the castle completely loses any influence whatsoever and begins to deteriorate and collapse. For the next two centuries, it serves as a prison. But not quite ordinary.
Representatives of the nobility were serving their sentences in Saumur, often accused simply by denunciation. At that time, the attitude towards the prisoners-nobles, especially the ancient families, was treated more than loyally. They were allowed to have a servant with a small retinue, to leave the castle. Often such prisoners were invited to celebrations in the house of the mayor.
Admiral Kerguelen (left) and Marquis de Sade (right)
In fact, they led a normal life. Of the most famous prisoners, only the Marquis de Sade can be named, who stayed in the castle for two weeks. "Stayed" here for 4 years and Admiral Kerguelen, because he left his ship on the high seas, leaving to the mercy of fate all the people on the ship.
It is also reliably known that during the American War of Independence, about eight hundred captured English sailors were kept in Saumur. This fact is confirmed by graffiti left on the walls depicting ships. But their imprisonment, of course, was not of such a free and cloudless nature, and none of the city fathers invited the sailors to dinner.
Le Château de Saumur, façade sud. Miniature de septembre dans Les Très Riches Heures du duc de Berry, vers 1440, musée Condé,
The next restoration of the castle was undertaken from 1811 to 1814, but it did not have any cultural character. The changes affected only the galleries of the northeast wing, and their essence was to divide the space into as many chambers as possible. At that time, only those prisoners who could not pay for a separate cell were kept in common cells. Apparently, a significant increase in the number of solvent "guests" was expected. Fortunately, soon after these changes were made, all the prisoners were released.
Saumur a little later, in 1889, ceases to be considered a military fortress and eventually receives the status of a historical monument. The city buys it from the state for a purely symbolic amount and finally starts full-fledged restoration work and excavations.
As a result of these works, room windows decorated with sculptural carvings, fireplaces and a stained-glass window of amazing beauty in the chapel were discovered. Unfortunately, much of the era of the XIV century is no longer subject to restoration and is irretrievably lost.
At the beginning of the 20th century, the city of Saumur bought the castle from the state for 2,500 francs (an insignificant amount) and decided to restore it. This idea was implemented at the expense of the city and the administration of the Academy of Fine Arts.
Unfortunately, the restoration, which was carried out very carefully and painstakingly, could not recreate the splendor and elegance that were inherent in Saumur of the 14th century.
Nowadays, since 1912, the completely restored north-east wing of the castle houses the Municipal Museum. Its exposition presents porcelain items from the 19th century, as well as an interesting collection of Flemish tapestries. On the third floor of the castle is a very unusual horse museum.
In such an unusual way, the amazing fate of a unique historical monument has developed. One of the most beautiful castles in France managed to visit a fortress, a country estate, a prison and even a horse museum. But it was the king-poet who forever immortalized his true character, who in his novel wrote on the roof of Saumur the motto of the true god of Love - “Trembling Heart”.
Tourist information
Schedule:
April 01-June 30 and September 01-November 03: 10:00-13:00 / 14:00-17:30 (from Tuesday to Sunday)
July 01-August 31: 10:00-18:00 (from Tuesday to Sunday)
Where is: Loire Valley, 70 km southeast of Angers.
How to get there:
- by bus. From Angers - No. 5, 11. 10 times a day, travel time 1 hour 30 minutes, price 10 euros.
- by train. From Tour 1 time per hour, travel time 50 min, price 12 euros. From Angers 1 time per hour, travel time 30 minutes, price 10 euros.
Website
What to look at: the city of Saumur is famous for its riding school, mushrooms and unique sparkling sparkling (pearl) wine, as well as, of course, the castle. From this city begins the tourist route "Valley of Troglodytes".
tourist office
Where is: pl. de la Bilange
Website
How does it work: from Mon. on Sat. 9.15-19.00, Sun. 10.30-12.30 and 15.30-18.30.
In the city
The period of the highest prosperity of the city of Saumur fell on the 16th - 17th centuries, when, after the completion of the religious wars of 1552-1589, a document was signed declaring Saumur a completely open and safe city for Protestants. A Protestant academy opened and a religious order settled. Philippe Duplessis-Mornay, an ambassador and friend of Henry of Navarre, became governor of Saumur.
The old quarters of the city and the castle are located on the south bank of the Loire. It is connected with the northern one by a stone multi-span bridge. Central square pl. St-Pierre is formed by well-restored stone and half-timbered houses. On it stands church of st. Petra (Eglise St-Pierre), which houses tapestries of the 16th century.
An incomparable medieval flavor is given to the city by the coaches of the National Riding School, prancing on horseback through the narrow streets.
National Riding School (Ecole Nationale d "equitation)
Where is: 3 km west of the city center at St-Hilaire-St-Florent
How does it work: from Tuesday to Saturday, the school can be visited at 9.30 and 14.00, on Monday - at 14.00 (visit only with a guided tour).
Issue price: 7 euros.
What to look at: the school is designed for dressage horses and training riders for the most important competitions. The school is known throughout the world as the center of Cadre Noir - a special cultural phenomenon that arose from the schools that taught horse riding to officers of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. A horse trained in this long-hard technique can, at the command of the rider, alternately raise the front legs at an angle of 45 degrees without bending them at the knee. Cadre Noir riders wear a special uniform: black hat, black waistcoat, golden spurs. The whip is decorated with three golden wings. The school, which is more like a closed club, cannot have more than 24 instructors. The first woman was accepted only in 1984.
Every day, horses produce more than 10 tons of manure, so many farms specializing in growing mushrooms are concentrated in the nearest district. Man-made caves are ideal for pasturing fruiting bodies, with which the entire "Valley of Troglodytes" has been eaten away. In one of the caves is located Mushroom Museum (Musee du Champignon) acquainting visitors with the technologies of growing mushrooms. It is located in a small village near Saumur - in St-Hilaire-St-Florent, open 10.00-12.30 and 14.00-18.00, in summer until 19.30. Website .
On a hill above the city rises the castle of Saumur.
Chateau de Saumur
How does it work: from July to September daily 10.00-17.00, from October to May day off Tuesday.
Issue price: 4.50 euro
The castle is located on a hill (on the so-called emerald rock) above the city and the most beautiful view of it is from the bridge or the northern part of the city. History of the castle is. Initially, it belonged to Count Blois Thibaut "The Dodger", although it should be noted that even in the era of the Gauls there was a military settlement. It was captured by Fulk III Nerra, after which the next owner, Geoffroy Gottfried Plantagenet, built a fortress. The ruins at the base of the southeast wing have come down to us from it. In 1203 it was annexed to the royal domain by Philip II Augustus, rival of the Plantagenets. It was then that the plan of the castle was established in the form of an irregular rectangle, at the corners of which round towers rise in strict accordance with the cardinal axis of the building. According to historians, between 1227 and 1230, during the regency of Blanche of Castile, a fortified castle was erected on this site in order to enable the French crown to return back Angers and part of Anjou, lost during the conclusion of the Vendôme agreement. Like many fortresses of those centuries, Saumur was destined to go from heyday to decline, because military fortunes are always so changeable. The last time Saumur defended, and stubbornly at that, with the forces of the junkers of the local military school, his walls from the Nazis in June 1940.
In its present form, Saumur appears at the end of the XIV century and then completed until the XVI century. For some time, Saumur even competed with the powerful fortress at Angers, located nearby. The strategic importance of the fortress was that it controlled the route to Tours and Poitiers. So fortress constantly rebuilt and strengthened. However, the military appointment of Saumur was short-lived, one lasted only two years after the construction of the castle, due to the fact that Saint Louis ordered the erection of a huge fortress in Angers, which became the royal residence, which is still located there.
Starting from the second half of the XIV century, a rough building from the time of King Louis Saint turns into a beautiful country castle through the efforts of Louis I of Anjou, the second son of Jean the Good, who in 1360 received the inheritance of Anjou, which became a duchy. Louis I did not destroy the fortress of his ancestors, but transformed it, using the previous plan and the foundations of round towers, on which he ordered the construction of polygonal towers, equipped with high buttresses that supported a sentinel belt with jagged machicolations.
In the 15th century, King René of Anjou "The Good" renovates the interiors, from which today only two small vaulted rooms in one of the towers chapel with sculpted coats of arms on the second floor and alley, leading along the hillside to the tower, the lock of the vault of which is decorated with "knots of love" in honor of Jeanne de Laval, who married in 1454. The Castle of Saumur was so beautiful that René of Anjou, the Poet King, chose it from among many others to describe in his novel A Heart Captivated by Love. "... This beautiful pleasure castle was built on the Emerald Rock, along which there was a vein of sparkling diamonds scattered everywhere, there were even more of them than emeralds. The four walls of this beautiful castle were made of pure crystal, and each wall was completed with a thick tower made of precious ruby stones that burned with fire, each larger than a man, and these towers were covered with platinum the width of a palm, and the house between the towers was covered with tiles of pure gold, on which the motto of the God of love was skillfully painted in enamel: "To the trembling heart." And to imagine this castle even better, it can only be compared with Saumur in Anjou, which stands on the Loire River."
After the death of King Rene, the Duchy of Anjou passed to the French crown, and the castle housed the royal garrison. In the 16th century, the fortress was rebuilt by the Italian engineer Bartolomeo. By this time, Saumur had also developed economically; his wines were famous throughout Europe. The cellars of Saumur are known today.
The tension that the religious wars took because of the intrigues of the League and the intrigues of Spain forced Henry III to ask for help from the King of Navarre. Under an agreement signed at Tours, Henry III ceded to the King of Navarre Saumur, where there were many Protestants. The future Henry IV entrusted the general military leadership in Saumur to his ambassador and friend Philippe Duplessis-Mornay. On April 15, 1589, he enters Saumur and introduces his garrison there. A day later, the king of Navarre enters the city tower, does not hide his joy from possessing this key to the Loire, gives the order to the new governor to strengthen this place " with all possible diligence and without stint on anything"and leaves him his engineer Bartolomeo to draw up and implement projects.
In addition to the city fortifications, Bartolomeo erects a stone wall encircling the castle with battlements and bastions from building stone. This wall, unfortunately, lost many small protruding watchtowers, allowing observation from the corner bastions.
Upon arrival in Saumur, Mornay and his family lived in the "city house" No. 45 Grande rue - in a modern and comfortable house, as " the castle was completely in ruins". However, he decides in 1596 to settle in the castle for a reason " a conspiracy undertaken by several townspeople threatening to capture him and deal with him". To put the castle in order, he had to spend a lot of money. A former military, experienced diplomat, Duplessis-Mornet was, in addition, a learned theologian. In 1593, he founded a Protestant academy in Saumur, which brought fame to the city for almost a century.
Duplessis-Mornet was a faithful servant of the Crown for 32 years under two kings. Despite this, in 1621 he fell out of favor. Louis XIII replaces him with a Catholic ruler. Since then, the castle ceases to play a military and political role, less glorious times come for it. The ancient citadel, the abandoned walls of which are gradually beginning to collapse, has been serving for almost two centuries. prison.
This prison was known for its liberal rules, since it was intended exclusively for noble prisoners who got here on a secret denunciation. The prisoners often had a servant or even a small retinue with them, they could go out of it into the city, and the Lieutenant of His Majesty the King, who ruled the city, willingly invited them to his table.
The most famous prisoner was the Marquis de Sade, who spent 2 weeks here in 1768 before being sent to the Pierre-Ancise prison (near Lyon). Admiral Kerguelen was imprisoned much longer - 4 years. He sailed the southern seas and was accused on his return from an unsuccessful expedition of leaving a ship with people on the high seas. During the war for the independence of the American colonies from England, 7800 captured English sailors were kept in the castle (in the donjon, the chapel of the corps overlooking the square, and in other outbuildings erected on the fortifications), who painted the walls of the cells with boats, accompanying them with their names and dates capture.
New restoration work, begun in 1811, was completed in 1814. Apparently at this time the large galleries of the northeast wing were divided into cells, as the engineer was instructed not to forget "that in the state prison it is necessary to have as many isolated rooms as possible and leave a small number of common - for persons who do not have sufficient funds to occupy a separate room." As soon as this prison began to function, the interim government ordered the release of all prisoners to freedom.
In 1889, the donjon was removed from the list of military installations and a few years later it was classified as a historical monument. At the end of the 19th century, the then mayor of the city, Dr. Peton, began to seek the transformation of the castle into museum, and in 1906 the city buys the castle from the state for a very small amount of 2500 francs. Immediately, the city decides to undertake the restoration of the castle at the expense of the funds shared with the administration of the Academy of Fine Arts. Thus, large room windows with sculptural carvings and crosshairs, the remains of large fireplaces, and the stained-glass window of the chapel were discovered. Enameled tiles were found under the embankment and, what is especially valuable, a coin with the image of Louis XIV, which made it possible to determine the approximate date of the transformation of the castle into a prison. Unfortunately, the restoration of the 20th century, which, although carried out with the greatest painstaking work, could not recreate the sculptural decoration of doors, windows and fireplaces in the splendor that they had in the 14th century.
Since 1912, on the second floor of the northeast wing, completely restored, as well as the towers that close it on both sides, there is a city museum with a collection of medieval sculpture, ceramics, household items and interior. There is also an exhibition on the history of the castle itself. The third floor is given over to the newly created Equestrian Museum.
By the castle
Saumur's silhouette is typical of the era. The polyhedral towers, set close to each other, rest on round plinths. The whole hill is lined with stone. Maschikuli, although purely decorative, go around all the walls and towers. The entrance tower was placed somewhat at an angle to the wall, which was dictated by fortification requirements. According to the miniature of the sumptuous Book of Hours of the Duke de Berry, where the castle is presented, one can judge that initially the spiers of the towers were crowned with gilded crowns of lily leaves. As King Rene wrote in his poem, it seemed that a ray of the sun lingered on them. In the watch book, Saumur is represented in a miniature dedicated to September, when the grapes ripened and their harvest began.
The southern and western towers have almost completely preserved the masonry of the 13th century, and on the lower floor - the original one with six ribs. The eastern tower, restored from the outside, is richly decorated inside, and its vault is decorated with the coats of arms of the Dukes of Anjou.
Museum within the walls of the castle shows examples of decorative and applied art: Limoges enamels, wooden sculpture, furniture, tapestries, ancient manuscripts, religious objects. The museum's collections look great in spacious halls made of hewn stone, with old fireplaces. Narrow door portals. A rare example of applied art is an enamel cross dating back to the beginning of enamel production in Limoges. Among the French carpets, a composition with a hunting scene (atelier of the city of Arras) stands out - part of the ensemble stored in the London Victoria and Albert Museum. This trellis is distinguished by a thin pattern, gently selected color ratio. From the same workshop comes a carpet with a scene of a masquerade ball, a tapestry "The Siege of Jerusalem". The ceramic production of Nimes, Rouen, Nevers and Marseilles is represented by an excellent collection of porcelain and faience. Workshops from Nevers are notable for their predilection for a yellow background, on which blue plants are depicted (flower stand, etc.). Marseille production is represented mainly by porcelain in the Rococo style.
In the halls of the castle is horse museum founded in 1911. The museum exhibits horse harnesses, cavalry combat equipment. A series of engravings by the English artist Stubbs, very popular in the 18th century on the continent, shows horses as a proud and romantic animal. A model of the building of the Cavalry School, whose students defended Saumur in 1940, complements the exposition.
Row tapestry from the museum in the castle is shown in the city church of Notre Dame. In the Romanesque church of Saint-Pierre, heavily restored, tapestries representing the lives of the saints are kept. So it can be argued that the collections of Saumur, with a rich collection of carpets, can be second only to Angers, being after him the most significant in the Loire.
On the banks of the Loire is town hall. The spring flood sometimes rushes its course right to its walls. The town hall, built in the 15th century, resembles a small fortress, which is quite understandable, given that it was once approached by a bridge over the Loire, which it was called upon to protect.
What else to see in the vicinity of Saumur?
At the ancient abbey of Saint-Florian, near Saumur, there is a dolmen - "Big Dolmen", one of the most famous megalithic examples of ancient cultures in France. About twenty meters long, it is composed of sixteen huge stone blocks placed vertically. At their end, at a height of three meters, there are blocks covering the dolmen from above. So the whole structure forms a kind of corridor.
Not far from Saumur (about 10 km) is breze castle(Chateau de Breze) with a kilometer of dungeons open to visitors. Also within reach
