Heating assembly in a private house. Do-it-yourself heating wiring in a private house. Choosing equipment for heating a private house

It is not an easy task to properly organize heating at home. It is clear that specialists - designers and installers - will cope best with it. It is possible and necessary to involve them in the process, but in what capacity it is up to you, the owner of the house, to determine. There are three options: hired people perform the whole range of activities or part of these works, or act as consultants, and you do the heating yourself.

Regardless of which heating option is chosen, you need to have a good understanding of all the stages of the process. This material is a step-by-step guide to action. Its purpose is to help you solve the problem of heating installation on your own or to competently supervise hired specialists and installers.

Heating system elements

In the overwhelming majority of cases, private residential buildings are heated by water heating systems. This is a traditional approach to solving the problem, which has an undeniable merit - universality. That is, heat is delivered to all rooms by means of a heat carrier, and it can be heated with the help of various energy carriers. We will consider their list further when choosing a boiler.

Water systems also make it possible to organize combined heating using two or even three types of energy sources.

Any heating system, where the coolant serves as a transmission link, is divided into the following components:

• heat source;
• pipeline network with all additional equipment and fittings;
• heating devices (radiators or heating circuits of warm floors).

For the purpose of processing and regulating the coolant, as well as performing maintenance work in heating systems, additional equipment and shut-off and control valves are used. The equipment includes the following items:

• expansion tank;
• circulation pump;
• hydraulic separator (hydraulic arrow);
• buffer capacity;
• distribution manifold;
• indirect heating boiler;
• devices and automation equipment.

Note. An obligatory attribute of a water heating system is an expansion tank, the rest of the equipment is installed as needed.

It is well known that when heated, water expands, and in a closed space its additional volume has nowhere to go. In order to avoid rupture of connections from high pressure in the network, an expansion vessel of an open or diaphragm type is installed. She also takes in excess water.

Forced circulation of the coolant is provided by a pump, and in the presence of several circuits separated by a hydraulic arrow or a buffer tank, 2 or more pumping units are used. As for the buffer tank, it works simultaneously as a low loss header and a heat accumulator. Separating the boiler circuit from all others is practiced in complex systems of cottages with several floors.

Collectors for distributing the coolant are installed in heating systems with underfloor heating or in cases where a radial battery connection scheme is used, we will talk about this in the following sections. An indirect heating boiler is a tank with a coil, where hot water is heated from a heat carrier. For visual control over the temperature and pressure of water in the system, thermometers and manometers are installed. Automation tools (sensors, thermostats, controllers, servo drives) not only control the parameters of the coolant, but also regulate them automatically.

Shut-off valves

In addition to the listed equipment, water heating of the house is controlled and serviced by means of shut-off and control valves, shown in the table:

When you have familiarized yourself with what elements the heating system consists of, you can proceed to the first step towards the goal - calculations.

Calculation of the heating system and selection of boiler power

It is impossible to select equipment without knowing the amount of heat required for heating the building. It can be determined in two ways: simple approximate and calculated. The first method is liked by all sellers of heating equipment, since it is quite simple and gives a more or less correct result. This is the calculation of the heat output based on the area of ​​the heated premises.

Take a separate room, measure its area and multiply the resulting value by 100 watts. The energy required for the entire country house is determined by summing the indicators for all rooms. We offer a more accurate method:

• by 100 W multiply the area of ​​those rooms where only 1 wall contacts the street, on which there is 1 window;
• if the room is a corner room with one window, then its area must be multiplied by 120 W;
• when the room has 2 external walls with 2 or more windows, its area is multiplied by 130 W.

If we consider the power as an approximate method, then residents of the northern regions of the Russian Federation may receive less heat, and the south of Ukraine may overpay for too powerful equipment. With the help of the second, calculation method, heating is designed by specialists. It is more accurate as it gives a clear understanding of how much heat is lost through the building structures of any building.

Before proceeding with the calculations, the house must be measured, having found out the areas of the walls, windows and doors. Then it is necessary to determine the thickness of the layer of each building material from which the walls, floors and roof are erected. For all materials in the reference literature or the Internet, you should find the value of thermal conductivity λ, expressed in units of W / (m · ºС). We substitute it into the formula for calculating the thermal resistance R (m2 ºС / W):

R = δ / λ, here δ is the thickness of the wall material in meters.

Note. When a wall or roof is made of different materials, it is necessary to calculate the R value for each layer, and then summarize the results.

Now you can find out the amount of heat leaving through the external building structure, according to the formula:

• QTP = 1 / R x (tv - tn) x S, where:
• QTP is the lost amount of heat, W;
• S is the previously measured area of ​​the building structure, m2;
• tв - here it is necessary to substitute the value of the desired internal temperature, ºС;
• tн - outdoor temperature during the coldest period, ºС.

Important! The calculation should be made for each room separately, alternately substituting the values ​​of thermal resistance and area for the outer wall, window, door, floors and roof into the formula. Then all these results must be summed up, this will be the heat loss of this room. Do not take into account the areas of the internal partitions!

Heat consumption for ventilation

To find out how much heat a private house loses as a whole, you need to add up the losses of all its rooms. But that's not all, because it is necessary to take into account the heating of the ventilation air, which is also provided by the heating system. In order not to go into the jungle of complex calculations, it is proposed to find out this heat consumption using a simple formula:

Qair = cm (tв - tн), where:

• Qair - the required amount of heat for ventilation, W;
• m is the amount of air by mass, defined as the internal volume of the building multiplied by the density of the air mixture, kg;
• (tв - tн) - as in the previous formula;
• с - heat capacity of air masses, taken equal to 0.28 W / (kg ºС).

To determine the heat demand of the entire building, it remains to add the value of QTP for the house as a whole with the value of Qair. The power of the boiler is taken with a margin for the optimal operating mode, that is, with a coefficient of 1.3. An important point must be taken into account here: if you plan to use a heat generator not only for heating, but also for heating water for hot water supply, then the power reserve must be increased. The boiler must work effectively in 2 directions at once, and therefore the safety factor must be taken at least 1.5.

At the moment, there are various types of heating, characterized by the used energy carrier or type of fuel. Which one to choose is up to you, and we will present all types of boilers with a brief description of their pros and cons. For heating residential buildings, you can purchase the following types of household heat generators:

• solid fuel;
• gas;
• electrical;
• on liquid fuel.

The following video will help you choose an energy carrier, and then a heat source:

Solid fuel boilers

They are divided into 3 types: direct combustion, pyrolysis and pellet. The units are popular due to their low operating cost, because compared to other energy sources, firewood and coal are inexpensive. The exception is natural gas in the Russian Federation, but connection to it is often more expensive than all heating equipment together with installation. Therefore, wood and coal boilers, which have an acceptable cost, are bought by people more and more often.

On the other hand, operating a solid fuel heat source is very similar to a simple stove heating. It takes time and effort to harvest, carry firewood and load it into the firebox. Serious piping of the unit is also required in order to ensure its durable and safe operation. After all, an ordinary solid fuel boiler is characterized by inertia, that is, after closing the air damper, water heating does not stop immediately. And the efficient use of the generated energy is possible only in the presence of a heat accumulator.

Important. Boilers that burn solid fuels generally cannot boast of high efficiency. Traditional direct combustion units have an efficiency of about 75%, pyrolysis units - 80%, and pellet units - no more than 83%.

The best choice in terms of comfort is a pellet heat generator with a high level of automation and virtually no inertia. It does not require a heat accumulator and frequent visits to the boiler room. But the price of equipment and pellets often makes it inaccessible to a wide range of users.

Gas boilers

An excellent option is to carry out heating, operating on main gas. In general, hot water gas boilers are very reliable and efficient. The efficiency of the simplest non-volatile unit is at least 87%, and that of an expensive condensing unit is up to 97%. The heaters are compact, well automated and safe to operate. Maintenance is required no more than once a year, and visits to the boiler room are needed only to control or change settings. A budgetary unit will come out much cheaper than a solid fuel one, so gas boilers can be considered generally available.

Just like solid fuel heat generators, gas boilers require a chimney and supply and exhaust ventilation. As for other countries of the former USSR, the cost of fuel there is much higher than in the Russian Federation, which is why the popularity of gas equipment is steadily declining.

Electric boilers

I must say that electric heating is the most efficient of all existing ones. Not only is the efficiency of boilers about 99%, but in addition they do not require chimneys and ventilation. There is practically no maintenance of the units as such, except that they are cleaned once every 2-3 years. And most importantly: the equipment and installation are very cheap, while the degree of automation can be anything. The boiler just doesn't need your attention.

No matter how pleasant the advantages of the electric boiler are, the main disadvantage is just as significant - the price of electricity. Even if you use a multi-tariff electricity meter, you will not be able to bypass the wood-burning heat generator by this indicator. This is the price to pay for comfort, reliability and high efficiency. Well, the second minus is the lack of the necessary electrical power on the supply networks. Such an annoying nuisance can at once cross out all thoughts of electric heating.

Oil-fired boilers

At the cost of heating equipment and its installation, heating with waste oil or diesel fuel will cost about the same as with natural gas. Their performance indicators are also similar, although testing loses somewhat for obvious reasons. Another thing is that this type of heating can be safely called the dirtiest. Any visit to the boiler room will end, at least with the smell of diesel fuel or dirty hands. And the annual cleaning of the unit is a whole event, after which you will be smeared with soot up to your waist.

The use of diesel fuel for heating is not the most profitable solution, the price of fuel can hit your pocket hard. Waste oil has also gone up in price, unless you have some cheap source of it. This means that it makes sense to install a diesel boiler when there are no other energy sources or, in the future, the supply of main gas. The unit easily switches from diesel fuel to gas, but the furnace at the development site will not be able to burn methane.

Heating systems for a private house

Heating systems implemented in private housing construction are one - and two-pipe. It is easy to distinguish between them:

• according to the one-pipe scheme, all radiators are connected to one collector. It is both supply and return, passing by all batteries in the form of a closed ring;
• in a two-pipe scheme, the coolant is supplied to the radiators through one pipe, and returned through the other.

The choice of a heating system scheme for a private house is not an easy matter, here it certainly does not hurt to consult a specialist. We will not sin against the truth if we say that the two-pipe scheme is more progressive and reliable than the one-pipe one. Contrary to popular belief about low installation costs when installing the latter, we note that it is not only more expensive than a two-pipe, but also more complicated. This topic is disclosed in great detail in the video:

The fact is that in a one-pipe system, the water from radiator to radiator cools more and more, so it is necessary to increase their capacity by adding sections. In addition, the distribution manifold must have a larger diameter than the two-pipe lines. And the last thing: automatic control in a one-pipe circuit is difficult due to the mutual influence of the batteries on each other.

In a small house or cottage with up to 5 radiators, you can safely introduce a one-pipe horizontal scheme (the common name is Leningrad). With a larger number of heating appliances, it will not be able to function normally, because the last batteries will be cold.

Another option is to use single-pipe vertical risers in a two-story private house. Such schemes are quite common and work successfully.

With a two-pipe wiring, the coolant is delivered to all radiators at the same temperature, so there is no need to increase the number of sections. The separation of the mains into supply and return makes it possible to automatically control the operation of the batteries by means of thermostatic valves.

The diameters of the pipelines are smaller, and the system as a whole is simpler. There are such types of two-pipe schemes:

dead-end: the pipeline network is divided into branches (shoulders) along which the coolant moves along the highways towards each other;

associated two-pipe system: here the return collector is, as it were, a continuation of the supply, and the entire coolant flows in one direction, the circuit forms a ring;

collector (beam). The most expensive wiring method: pipelines from the collector are laid separately to each radiator, the laying method is hidden, in the floor.

If we take horizontal lines of a larger diameter and lay them with a slope of 3-5 mm per 1 m, then the system will be able to work due to gravity (by gravity). Then the circulation pump is not needed, the circuit will be non-volatile. For the sake of fairness, we note that without a pump, both one-pipe and two-pipe wiring can function. If only conditions were created for the natural circulation of water.

The heating system can be made open by installing an expansion vessel at the highest point, which is in communication with the atmosphere. Such a solution is used in gravity networks, otherwise it cannot be done there. If, however, a membrane-type expansion tank is installed on the return line near the boiler, then the system will be closed and operate under excess pressure. This is a more modern version, which finds its application in networks with forced movement of the coolant.

It is impossible not to say about the method of heating the house with warm floors. Its disadvantage is the high cost, since it will be necessary to lay hundreds of meters of pipes in the screed, as a result of which a heating water circuit is obtained in each room. The ends of the pipes converge to a distribution manifold with a mixing unit and its own circulation pump. An important plus is the economical uniform heating of the premises, which is very comfortable for people. Floor heating circuits are definitely recommended for use in all residential buildings.

Advice. The owner of a small house (up to 150 m2) can be safely recommended to adopt a conventional two-pipe scheme with forced circulation of the coolant. Then the diameters of the highways will be no more than 25 mm, the branches - 20 mm, and the connections to the batteries - 15 mm.

Heating system installation

We will begin the description of installation work with the installation and piping of the boiler. In accordance with the rules, units whose power does not exceed 60 kW can be installed in the kitchen. More powerful heat generators should be located in the boiler room. At the same time, for heat sources that burn different types of fuel and have an open combustion chamber, it is necessary to ensure a good air flow. A chimney device is also required to remove combustion products.

For the natural movement of water, it is recommended to install the boiler in such a way that its return pipe is below the level of the radiators of the first floor.

The place where the heat generator will be located must be selected taking into account the minimum permissible distances to walls or other equipment. Typically, these gaps are indicated in the manual that came with the product. If this data is not available, then we adhere to the following rules:

• passage width from the front side of the boiler - 1 m;
• if you do not need to service the unit from the side or rear, then leave a gap of 0.7 m, otherwise - 1.5 m;
• distance to the nearest equipment - 0.7 m;
• when placing two boilers next to them, a passage of 1 m is maintained between them, opposite each other - 2 m.

Note. When installing wall-mounted heat sources, side passages are not required, only the clearance in front of the unit must be observed for ease of maintenance.

Boiler connection

It should be noted that the piping of gas, diesel and electric heat generators is practically the same. Here it must be borne in mind that the vast majority of wall-mounted boilers are equipped with a built-in circulation pump, and many models are equipped with an expansion tank. To begin with, consider the connection diagram for a simple gas or diesel unit:

The figure shows a diagram of a closed system with a diaphragm expansion vessel and forced circulation. This tying method is the most common. A pump with a bypass line and a sump is located on the return line, there is also an expansion tank. The pressure is monitored by means of pressure gauges; air is removed from the boiler circuit through an automatic air vent.

Note. The piping of an electric boiler that is not equipped with a pump is carried out according to the same principle.

When the heat generator is equipped with its own pump, as well as a circuit for heating water for the needs of hot water supply, the piping and installation of elements is as follows:

Shown here is a wall-mounted boiler with forced air injection into a closed combustion chamber. To remove flue gases, a double-walled coaxial flue is used, which is brought out horizontally through the wall to the street. If the unit's firebox is open, then a traditional chimney with good natural draft is needed. How to correctly install a chimney from sandwich modules is shown in the figure:

In country houses of a large area, it is often necessary to dock the boiler with several heating circuits - radiator, warm floors and an indirect heating boiler for the needs of hot water supply. In such a situation, a low loss header is the optimal solution. It will allow organizing an independent circulation of the coolant in the boiler circuit and at the same time will serve as a distributor comb for the remaining branches. Then the schematic diagram of heating a two-story house will look like this:

According to this scheme, each heating circuit has its own pump, so that it works independently of the others. Since a heat carrier with a temperature of no more than 45 ° C should be supplied to the underfloor heating, three-way valves are used on these branches. They mix in hot water from the main line when the temperature of the coolant in the underfloor heating circuits decreases.

With solid fuel heat generators, the situation is more complicated. Their strapping must take into account 2 points:

• possible overheating due to the inertia of the unit, firewood cannot be extinguished quickly;
• formation of condensation when cold water enters the boiler tank from the network.

To avoid overheating and possible boiling, the circulation pump is always placed on the return line, and a safety group must be placed on the supply immediately behind the heat generator. It consists of three elements: a pressure gauge, an automatic air vent and a safety valve. The presence of the latter is of decisive importance, it is the valve that will release excess pressure when the coolant overheats. If you decide to organize, then the following piping scheme is required:

Here, a bypass and a three-way valve protect the furnace of the unit from condensation. The valve will not let water from the system into the small circuit until the temperature in it reaches 55 ° C. Detailed information on this issue can be obtained by watching the video:

Advice. Due to the peculiarities of operation, solid fuel boilers are recommended to be used in conjunction with a buffer tank - a heat accumulator, as shown in the diagram:

Many homeowners use two different heat sources in the combustion room. They must be properly tied and connected to the system. For this case, we offer 2 schemes, one of them is for a solid fuel and electric boiler, working together with radiator heating.

The second scheme combines a gas and wood-fired heat generator, supplying heat for heating the house and preparing water for hot water supply:

To mount the heating of a private house with your own hands, you first need to decide which pipes to choose for this. On the modern market, there are several types of metal and polymer pipes suitable for heating private houses:

• steel;
• copper;
• made of stainless steel;
• polypropylene (PPR);
• polyethylene (PEX, PE-RT);
• metal-plastic.

Heating lines made of ordinary "ferrous" metal are considered a relic of the past, since they are most susceptible to corrosion and "overgrowth" of the flow area. In addition, it is not easy to independently carry out installation from such pipes: you need good welding skills in order to carry out a tight joint. However, some homeowners still use steel piping when installing independent heating at home.

Copper or stainless steel pipes are an excellent choice, but it is too expensive. These are reliable and durable materials that are not afraid of high pressure and temperature, so if funds are available, these products are definitely recommended for use. Copper is joined by soldering, which also requires some skill, and stainless steel - using collapsible or press fittings. The latter should be preferred, especially with hidden laying.

Advice. For piping boilers and laying pipelines within the boiler room, it is best to use any type of metal pipes.

Heating from polypropylene will cost you the cheapest. Of all types of PPR pipes, it is necessary to choose those that are reinforced with aluminum foil or fiberglass. The low price of the material is their only plus, since the installation of heating from polypropylene pipes is a rather complicated and responsible business. And in appearance, polypropylene loses to other plastic products.

The joints of PPR pipelines with fittings are carried out by soldering, and it is not possible to check their quality. When the heating was insufficient during soldering, the connection will surely flow later, but if it is overheated, then the diffused polymer will half block the flow area. Moreover, it will not be possible to see this during assembly, flaws will make themselves felt later, during operation. The second significant drawback is the large elongation of the material during heating. To avoid "saber" bends, the pipe must be fixed on movable supports, and a gap must be left between the ends of the line and the wall.

It is much easier to make do-it-yourself heating from polyethylene or metal-plastic pipes. Although the price of these materials is higher than polypropylene. For a beginner, they are most convenient, since the joints are quite simple here. Pipelines can be laid in a screed or wall, but with one condition: the connections must be made on press fittings, not collapsible ones.

Metal-plastic and polyethylene are used both for open laying of highways, and hidden behind any screens, as well as for the installation of water-heated floors. The disadvantage of PEX pipes is that they tend to return to their original state, which makes the laid heating manifold look slightly wavy. PE-RT polyethylene and metal-plastic do not have such a "memory" and bend as you need them calmly. Read more about the choice of pipes in the video:

An ordinary homeowner, going into a heating store and seeing there a wide selection of different radiators, may conclude that it is not so easy to find batteries for your home. But this is the first impression, in fact, there are not so many varieties of them:

• aluminum;
• bimetallic;
• steel panel and tubular;
• cast iron.

Note. There are also designer water heating devices of a wide variety of types, but they are expensive and deserve a separate detailed description.

Sectional batteries made of aluminum alloy have the best heat transfer rates; bimetallic heaters are not far from them. The difference between the one and the other is that the former are made entirely of alloy, while the latter have a tubular steel frame inside. This is done for the purpose of using devices in centralized heating systems of high-rise buildings, where the pressure can be quite high. Therefore, it makes no sense at all to install bimetallic radiators in a private cottage.

It should be noted that the installation of heating in a private house will be cheaper if you purchase steel panel radiators. Yes, their heat transfer rates are less than that of aluminum ones, but in practice you will hardly feel the difference. With regard to reliability and durability, the devices will successfully serve you for at least 20 years, or even more. In turn, tubular batteries are much more expensive, in this respect they are closer to design ones.

Steel and aluminum heating devices have one useful quality in common: they lend themselves well to automatic regulation using thermostatic valves. What can not be said about massive cast-iron batteries, on which it is pointless to put such valves. All because of the ability of cast iron to heat up for a long time, and then keep warm for some time. Also, because of this, the speed of warming up the premises is reduced.

If we touch upon the question of aesthetics of appearance, then the cast-iron retro radiators offered nowadays are much more beautiful than any other batteries. But they also cost fabulous money, and inexpensive "accordions" of the Soviet model MS-140 are suitable only for a one-story country house. From the above, the conclusion suggests itself:

For a private house, buy those heating appliances that you like the most and suit for the cost. Just take into account their features and choose the right size and heat output.

Selection by power and methods of connecting radiators

The selection of the number of sections or the size of the panel radiator is carried out according to the amount of heat required to heat the room. We have already determined this value at the very beginning, it remains to reveal a couple of nuances. The fact is that the manufacturer indicates the heat transfer of the section for the temperature difference between the coolant and the room air, equal to 70 ° C. To do this, the water in the battery must be warmed up to at least 90 ° C, which happens very rarely.

It turns out that the real thermal power of the device will be significantly lower than that indicated in the passport, because usually the temperature in the boiler is maintained at 60-70 ° C on the coldest days. Accordingly, for proper heating of the premises, the installation of radiators with at least one and a half heat transfer reserves is required. For example, when a room needs 2 kW of heat, you should take heating devices with a capacity of at least 2 x 1.5 = 3 kW.

Indoors, batteries are placed in places of greatest heat loss - under windows or near blank outer walls. At the same time, the connection to the highways can be done in several ways:

• lateral one-sided;
• diagonal versatile;
• lower - if the radiator has corresponding pipes.

Lateral connection of the device on one side is most often used when it is connected to risers, and diagonal - to horizontally laid highways. These 2 methods allow you to effectively use the entire surface of the battery, which will heat up evenly.

When a one-pipe heating system is installed, the bottom manifold connection is also used. But then the efficiency of the device decreases, and hence the heat transfer. The difference in surface heating is illustrated in the figure:

There are models of radiators where the design provides for the connection of nozzles from the bottom. Such devices have internal wiring and, in fact, a one-sided side circuit is implemented in them. This can be clearly seen in the figure, where the battery is shown in section.

You can find out a lot of useful information on the choice of heating devices by watching the video:

5 common mistakes during installation

Of course, when installing a heating system, you can tolerate much more than five flaws, but we will single out 5 of the most egregious ones that can lead to disastrous consequences. Here they are:

• wrong choice of heat source;
• errors in the piping of the heat generator;
• incorrectly selected heating system;
• careless installation of the pipelines and fittings themselves;
• incorrect installation and connection of heating devices.

An insufficient boiler is one of the typical mistakes. It is allowed when selecting a unit designed not only to heat the premises, but also to prepare water for the needs of hot water supply. If you do not take into account the additional power required to heat the water, the heat generator will not cope with its functions. As a result, the coolant in the batteries and the water in the DHW system will not heat up to the required temperature.

Parts play not only a functional role, but also serve safety purposes. For example, it is recommended to install a pump on the return pipe upstream of the heat generator, in addition to the bypass line. Moreover, the pump shaft must be in a horizontal position. Another mistake is the installation of a crane in the area between the boiler and the security group; this is absolutely unacceptable to do.

Important. When connecting a solid fuel boiler, the pump must not be placed in front of the three-way valve, but only after it (along the flow of the coolant).

The expansion tank is taken with a volume of 10% of the total amount of water in the system. With an open circuit, it is placed at the highest point, with a closed circuit - on the return pipeline, in front of the pump. Between them there should be a sump mounted horizontally with the plug down. The wall-mounted boiler is connected to the pipelines by means of American women.

When the heating system is chosen incorrectly, you risk overpaying for materials and installation, and then incur additional costs to bring it to mind. Most often, errors are encountered when installing one-pipe systems, when more than 5 radiators are trying to "hang" on one branch, which then do not heat. The flaws during the installation of the system include non-observance of slopes, poor-quality connections and the installation of the wrong fittings.

For example, a thermostatic valve or a conventional ball valve is placed at the entrance to the radiator, and a balancing valve at the exit to adjust the heating system. If pipes are being installed to radiators in the floor or walls, then they must be insulated so that the coolant does not cool down on the way. When joining polypropylene pipes, it is necessary to scrupulously adhere to the heating time with a soldering iron so that the connection is reliable.

Choosing a coolant

It is generally known that filtered and, if possible, demineralized water is most often used for this purpose. But under certain conditions, such as intermittent heating, water can freeze and destroy the system. Then the latter is filled with non-freezing liquid - antifreeze. But you should take into account the properties of this liquid and do not forget to remove all gaskets from ordinary rubber from the system. From antifreeze, they quickly deteriorate and a leak occurs.

Attention! Not every boiler can work with antifreeze liquid, which is displayed in its technical passport. This should be checked when purchasing it.

As a rule, the system is filled with coolant directly from the water supply through the make-up valve and the non-return valve. In the process of filling, air is removed from it through automatic air vents and Mayevsky's manual taps. With a closed circuit, pressure is monitored by a pressure gauge. Usually in a cold state, it lies in the range of 1.2-1.5 bar, and during operation it does not exceed 3 bar. In an open circuit, it is necessary to monitor the water level in the tank and turn off the make-up when it flows out of the overflow pipe.

Antifreeze is pumped into a closed heating system with a special manual or automatic pump equipped with a pressure gauge. So that the process is not interrupted, the liquid must be prepared in advance in a container of appropriate capacity, from where it must be pumped into the pipeline network. Filling an open system is easier: antifreeze can simply be poured or pumped into the expansion tank.

Conclusion

If you take a good look at all the nuances, it becomes clear that it is quite possible to mount a heating system in a private house on your own. But you need to understand that this will require a lot of time and effort from you, including to control the installation in the event that you decide to hire specialists for this.

An efficient heating system will make life comfortable in any home. Well, if the heating works very badly, then the level of comfort will not be saved by any design delights. Therefore, now we will talk about the schemes and rules for installing the elements of the system that heats the home.

What you need for assembly - 3 main parts

Any heating system consists of three basic components:

• a heat source - this role can be played by a boiler, stove, fireplace;
• heat transfer line - usually this is the pipeline through which the coolant circulates;
• heating element - in traditional systems, this is a classic radiator that converts the energy of the coolant into thermal radiation.

Boiler room layout in the house

Of course, there are schemes that exclude the first and second elements of this chain. For example, the well-known stove heating, when the source is also a heating element, and the heat transfer line is absent in principle. Or convection heating, when a radiator is excluded from the chain, since the source heats the air itself in the house to the desired temperature. However, the stove circuit was considered outdated at the beginning of the twentieth century, and the convection version is very difficult to implement with your own hands without special knowledge and specific skills. Therefore, most household systems are built on the basis of a hot water boiler and a water circuit (piping).

As a result, for the construction of the system, we need one boiler, several radiators (usually their number is equal to the number of windows) and pipeline fittings with associated fittings. Moreover, in order to assemble the heating of a private house, you will have to connect all these components with your own hands within one system. But before that, it would be nice to understand the parameters of each element - from the boiler to pipes and radiators, in order to know what to buy for the house.

Which boiler to choose and how to calculate its power

Water heating draws energy from a special boiler, the combustion chamber of which is surrounded by a jacket filled with a liquid heat carrier. At the same time, any product can burn in the firebox - from gas to peat. Therefore, before assembling the system, it is very important to select not only the power, but also the type of heat source. And you have to choose between three options:

• Gas boiler - it converts main or cylinder fuel into heat.
• Solid fuel heater - it is powered by coal, wood or fuel pellets (pellets, briquettes).
• An electrical source - it converts electricity into heat.

The best option of all of the above is a gas heat generator that runs on main fuel. It is cheap to operate and operates in a continuous mode, since the fuel supply is carried out automatically and in an arbitrarily large volume. Moreover, such equipment has virtually no drawbacks, except for the high fire hazard, which is inherent in all boilers.

A good option for a heat generator that heats a private house without a gas pipeline is a solid fuel boiler. Especially models designed for long burning. Fuel for such boilers can be found anywhere, and a special design allows you to reduce the frequency of loading from twice a day to one filling of the furnace in 2-3 days. However, even such boilers are not spared from periodic cleaning, therefore this moment is the main disadvantage of such a heater.

The worst choice of all is the electric boiler. The disadvantages of such a proposal are obvious - the transformation of electricity into heat carrier energy is too expensive. In addition, an electric boiler needs frequent replacement of the heater and the arrangement of a reinforced wiring line, as well as grounding. The only plus of this option is the complete absence of combustion products. The electric boiler does not need a chimney. Therefore, most households choose either the gas or solid fuel option. However, in addition to the type of fuel, the homeowner also needs to pay attention to the parameters of the heat generator itself, or rather, to its power, which should compensate for the heat losses of the dwelling in the winter.

The choice of a boiler in terms of power begins with calculating the footage of the heated premises. Moreover, for each square meter, there must be at least 100 watts of thermal power. That is, for a room of 70 squares, a 7000 watt or 7 kW boiler is needed. In addition, it would be nice to put a 15% reserve in the boiler's capacity, which will come in handy during severe cold weather. As a result, for a house of 70 m 2, a boiler of 8.05 kW (7 kW 15%) is needed.

More accurate calculations of the power of the heater operate not with squares of area, but with the volume of the house. In this case, it is generally accepted that the energy consumption for heating one cubic meter is 41 watts. And a house with an area of ​​70 m 2 with a 3-meter ceiling height must be heated by a heat generating device with a capacity of 8610 watts (70 × 3 × 41). And taking into account the 15% power reserve for extreme cold, the maximum heat generating capacity of such a boiler should be equal to 9901 watts or, taking into account rounding, 10 kW.

Batteries and pipes - copper, propylene or reinforced plastic?

To carry out the heating system around the house, we need pipes and radiators. The latter can be chosen even on the basis of aesthetic preferences. In a private house, there is no large pressure in the system, therefore, there are no restrictions on the strength characteristics of radiators. However, the requirements for the heat generating capacity of the batteries still remain. Therefore, when selecting radiators, it will be correct to focus not only on appearance, but also on heat transfer. After all, the power of the heating element must correspond to the area or volume of the room. For example, in a room of 15 squares, there should be a battery (or several radiators) with a capacity of 1.5 kW.

With pipes, the situation is more complicated. Here you need to take into account not only the aesthetic component, but also the ability to perform the installation of the network on your own with minimal knowledge and effort on the part of a home-grown locksmith. Therefore, we can consider only three options as candidates for the role of ideal fittings for wiring:

• Copper pipes - they are used in the arrangement of both home and industrial heating systems, but they are very expensive. In addition, such fittings are connected by soldering, and this operation is not familiar to everyone.
• Polypropylene pipes - they are cheap, but you need a special welding machine to install them. However, even a child can master such a device.
• Reinforced-plastic pipes - such a system can be assembled using a wrench. In addition, metal-plastic does not cost more than polypropylene pipes and allows you to save on corner fittings.

As a result, it is better to assemble home-made heating on the basis of metal-plastic fittings, since it does not require the performer to be able to handle a welding machine or a soldering iron. In turn, collet fittings of a metal-plastic pipeline can be mounted even by hand, helping yourself with wrenches only at the last 3-4 revolutions. Regarding the dimensions of the fittings, or rather the bore diameter, experienced specialists in the arrangement of heating systems have the following opinion: for a system with a pump, you can choose a ½ inch pipe - this throughput diameter is enough for a home system in excess.

Well, if pressure equipment is not used (water will flow through the pipes by gravity, prompted by gravitational and thermal convection), then a 1¼ or 1½ inch pipe will be enough for such a system. It is not necessary to buy reinforcement of a larger diameter under such circumstances. And what kind of wiring to choose - pressure or non-pressure, we will talk about this below in the text, at the same time discussing the optimal schemes for connecting batteries to the boiler.

Optimal wiring diagram for self-assembly

Home heating is based on two schemes: one-pipe and two-pipe. In addition, household wiring can be built on a collector basis, but it is difficult for novice craftsmen to assemble such a scheme, therefore, further in the text we will not consider this option, focusing only on one- and two-pipe options.

Single-pipe wiring assumes the following coolant circulation plan: the hot stream leaves the boiler jacket and pours through the pipe into the first battery, from which it enters the second, and so on, to the very extreme radiator. There is practically no return flow in such a system - it is replaced by a short segment connecting the extreme battery and the boiler. Moreover, when making a one-pipe forced circuit, pressure equipment (circulation pump) is placed on this segment.

This system is very easy to assemble. To do this, you need to install the boiler, hang up the batteries and route one wiring thread between each pre-installed heating circuit elements. However, for the ease of installation, you will have to pay off the lack of mechanisms for controlling the heat transfer of radiators. In this case, it is possible to regulate the temperature in the room only by changing the intensity of fuel combustion in the boiler. And nothing else.

Of course, given the high cost of fuel, this nuance will suit only a few homeowners, so they try not to use single-circuit wiring in rooms with an area of ​​50 square meters or more. However, for small buildings, such a wiring is just ideal, as well as for the natural circulation pattern of the coolant, when the pressure is generated due to temperature and gravitational induction.

The two-pipe system is arranged a little differently. In this case, the following flow pattern of the coolant operates: water leaves the boiler jacket and enters the pressure circuit, from which it is drained into the first, second, third batteries, and so on. The return in this system is implemented in the form of a separate circuit, laid parallel to the pressure branch, and the coolant that has passed through the battery is drained into the return line, returning to the boiler. That is, in a two-circuit scheme, the radiators are connected to the pressure and return pipes using special branches cut into the two main lines.

To make such a circuit, you need to use more pipes and fittings, but all the costs will pay off in the near future. The dual-circuit version assumes the ability to adjust the heat transfer of each battery. To do this, it is enough to install a shut-off and control valve in the branch connected to the radiator from the pressure line, after which it becomes possible to control the volumes of the coolant pumped through the battery without interfering with the general circulation. Thanks to this, you can protect yourself not only from overheating of the air in a particular room, but also from senseless excessive consumption of fuel and personal funds allocated for its purchase.

This version of the wiring diagram has only one drawback: on its basis it is very difficult to assemble an effective system based on the natural circulation of the coolant. But on the basis of a pump, it works much better than a single-circuit analogue. Therefore, further in the text we will consider step-by-step instructions for assembling a single-circuit system on natural circulation and a two-circuit network on the forced movement of the coolant.

Assembly of the natural circulation heating system

The construction of a natural circulation system begins with the selection of a site for. The heat source should be in the corner room at the lowest point of the wiring. After all, the batteries will run along the inner perimeter, along the load-bearing walls, and even the last radiator should be located slightly higher than the boiler. After the place for the boiler is selected, you can proceed with its installation. To do this, the wall in the placement area is tiled, and either a galvanized sheet or a flat slate panel is stuffed onto the floor. The next stage is the installation of the chimney, after which you can install the boiler itself, connecting it to the exhaust pipe and the fuel line (if there is one)

Further installation is carried out in the direction of movement of the coolant and is implemented according to the following scheme. First, batteries are hung under the windows. Moreover, the upper branch pipe of the last radiator should be located above the pressure outlet from the boiler. The amount of elevation is calculated based on the proportion: one linear meter of the wiring is equal to two centimeters of elevation. The penultimate radiator is hung 2 cm higher than the last one, and so on, up to the first battery in the direction of the coolant movement.

When the required number of batteries already weighs on the walls of the house, you can proceed to the assembly of the wiring. To do this, a 30-cm section of the horizontal pipeline must be connected to the pressure connection (or union) of the boiler. Further, a vertical pipe, raised to the level of the ceiling, is docked to this section. In this pipe, a tee is screwed onto a vertical line, providing a transition to a horizontal slope and arrangement of the expansion tank tie-in location.

To mount the tank, a vertical tee fitting is used, and the second horizontal section of the pressure pipe is screwed to the free outlet, which is pulled at a slope (2 cm by 1 m) to the first radiator. There the horizontal passes into the second vertical section, descending to the radiator pipe, with which the pipe is joined using a collet fitting with a threaded drive.

Next, you need to connect the upper pipe of the first radiator with the corresponding connector of the second radiator. To do this, use a pipe of the appropriate length and two fittings. After that, the lower radiator pipes are connected in the same way. And so on, until the penultimate and last batteries dock. In the end, you need to mount a Mayevsky faucet into the upper free union of the last battery and connect a return pipe to the lower free connector of this radiator, which is led into the lower branch pipe of the boiler.

To fill the system with water in the return pipe, you can equip a T-piece with a ball valve on the side outlet. We connect the outlet from the water supply to the free end of this valve. Then the system can be filled with water and the boiler can be turned on.

Forced circulation heating in 8 steps

It will be justified in the case of single-circuit wiring. However, the maximum efficiency of the system with forced circulation will be provided only by two-pipe wiring, equipped according to the following rules:

1. 1. The boiler can be installed on the floor or hung on the wall in any room without monitoring the level of the heater.
2. 2. Further, two pipes are lowered from the pressure and return pipes of the boiler to the floor level, using either couplings or corner fittings.
3. 3. Two horizontal lines are mounted to the ends of these pipes - pressure and return. They run along the load-bearing walls of the house, from the boiler to the location of the extreme battery.
4. 4. At the next stage, you need to hang up the batteries, not paying attention to the level of the branch pipes relative to the adjacent radiator. The inlet and outlet of the battery can be located at the same level or at different levels, this fact will not affect the heating efficiency.
5. 5. Next, we cut into the pressure and return branches along the tee, placing them under the inlet and outlet of each battery. After that, we connect the tee of the pressure pipe to the inlet to the battery, and the fitting on the return line to the outlet. Moreover, this operation will have to be done with all batteries. In a similar scheme, we also mount taps for connecting a warm floor in the system.
6. 6. The next step is to install the expansion tank. To do this, we cut a tee into the section of the pressure pipe between the boiler and the first battery, the outlet of which is connected with a vertical pipe to the entrance to the expansion tank.
7. 7. Next, you can start installing the circulation pump. To do this, we mount a valve and two tees in the return line between the first battery and the boiler, collecting the bypass for the pump. Further, from the tees, we take two L-shaped segments, between the ends of which we mount the pump.
8. 8. In the final, we equip the outlet for filling water into the system. To do this, you need to embed another tee between the pump and the boiler, connecting a hose from the water supply to its outlet.

Acting according to this plan, you can assemble a two-pipe wiring in a house of any size. After all, the design of such a system does not depend on the number of batteries - the installation principle will be identical for both two and 20 radiators.

How to improve system efficiency - battery or bypass?

To improve the efficiency of heating systems in everyday life, either heat accumulators or bypasses are used. The first ones are mounted in boiler rooms of a large area, the second ones - in small rooms where, in addition to the boiler, there is other equipment. The heat accumulator is a container filled with water, inside which the pressure and return lines of the heating system are laid. As a rule, such a container is placed immediately behind the boiler. Safety valves, expansion tanks and circulation pumps can be cut into the section of the pressure and return pipelines located between the heater and the accumulator.

In this case, the pressure line heats up the water in the tank, and the return line heats up from the liquid poured into the battery. Therefore, when the boiler burner is turned off, the system can work for some time only from the heat accumulator, which is very beneficial if it is used in a circuit that generates excess energy at the start of combustion of a portion of firewood or coal laid in the firebox. The capacity of the heat accumulator is determined by the proportion of 1 kW of boiler power = 50 liters of tank volume. That is, for a 10 kW heater, a 500 liter battery (0.5 m 3) is needed.

A bypass is a bypass pipe that is welded between the pressure and return branches. Its diameter should not exceed the radius of the main line. Moreover, it is better to insert a shut-off valve into the body of the bypass in advance, blocking the circulation of the coolant.

When the valve is open, part of the hot flow does not go into the pressure circuit, but directly into the return. Thanks to this, it is possible to reduce the heating temperature of the battery by 10 percent, reducing the volume of the coolant pumped through the radiator by 30%. As a result, using a bypass, it is possible to regulate the operation of the radiator in both double-circuit and single-circuit wiring. In the latter case, this is especially important, since the bypass embedded in the first two batteries provides a stronger heating of the last radiator in the line and makes it possible to control the temperature in the rooms, although not with such efficiency as in the case of two-pipe wiring.

Any heating system should reduce heat losses to minimum values ​​and at the same time give off the maximum amount of heat. In this case, it is very important to choose the right materials for the manufacture of the system, the boiler and heating radiators. For self-installation of a heating system in a private house, you do not need to undergo special training. When carrying out a project, you need to follow a number of certain rules, with the help of which you can not only prepare for work, but also do all the work with your own hands.

In the process of preparing for installation work, it is very important to correctly determine the type of heating system; the choice of the boiler and radiators depends on this. In addition, the design phase cannot be neglected. Only after that you can safely go to the trade organization for the purchase of materials and proceed to the direct installation.

The simplest option is a hot water heating system, which consists of a boiler, pipes and heat exchangers. The operation of the system involves the initial heating of water in the boiler, its movement through pipes and entry into radiators, from which heat is transferred to the room. The cooled coolant is returned to the boiler through the return pipe and the process is repeated. Heating of premises according to this scheme is considered the simplest, most reliable and least costly to operate.

Varieties of heating systems in private houses

For heating a private house, in most cases, two types of pipe routing are used: one-pipe and two-pipe. Both schemes have their own advantages and disadvantages and are suitable for different cases.

Single pipe system

This scheme is a cheaper and simpler solution to the problem of how to properly mount the heating system. Installation is carried out in the form of a closed ring, where all the batteries are connected in series with each other, and the coolant moves through the batteries and returns to the boiler.

This arrangement allows for some savings due to simple installation and design. However, one significant drawback very often makes the choice in favor of a two-pipe system. The fact is that the coolant gradually cools down in the process of moving through pipes and radiators. This leads to the fact that in the last radiator the water is at a lower temperature. An increase in the boiler output leads to a strong heating of the first batteries. Adding a certain number of sections on the last battery is also not effective. This causes some inconvenience, which is why very often homeowners refuse simple and cheap one-pipe wiring.

A pump for forced circulation of the coolant helps to solve the problem of such a plan. The device is connected to the boiler, and the liquid moves through the system, practically without changing the temperature.

However, this case also has its drawbacks:

• Firstly, the purchase of a pump is an additional cost, which leads to an increase in the cost of installing a heating system in a private house.
• The pump must be connected to the power supply, which causes an increase in the consumed electricity.
• The dependence on electricity makes the pump ineffective during a power outage, therefore, there is no light - there is no heat in the room.

Thus, a one-pipe heating system can be used in houses of a small area, where no more than three heat exchangers are connected in series. Therefore, for premises of a large area where a large number of radiators are required, a simple and reliable one-pipe system is not suitable.

Two-pipe distribution of the heating system

Do-it-yourself installation of solid fuel heating of a private house according to this scheme is considered more effective than the previous option. Despite the complexity of execution and high cost, the system has a significant advantage: an even distribution of heat across all batteries and the creation of comfortable living conditions.

A two-pipe system involves bringing a pipe with hot water to each heat exchanger and removing the cooled coolant through a separate return pipe. In this case, the simultaneous supply of the coolant allows each radiator to be evenly heated, regardless of its location relative to the boiler.

Such a scheme requires more materials due to the complexity of the pipe routing scheme.

The work of a two-pipe system can be organized according to a collector or beam scheme. In any case, the distribution of heating from a boiler in a private house should be carried out by an experienced specialist.

In the first case, a collector is installed in the attic, thanks to which the working medium is evenly distributed through the pipes of the heating system. Cranes designed to cut off contours are also mounted here. This allows repairs to be carried out in any area without compromising the operation of the entire system.

However, such a reliable and efficient system still has a drawback. It consists in the need to use a large number of materials, including valves, pipes, sensors and monitoring devices.

The radial wiring option involves the installation of the supply pipe at the highest point of the room and the installation of taps to each radiator.

The two-pipe heating system can work without a circulation pump due to its design, while the operating efficiency is at a high level.

Rules for choosing equipment for a heating system in a private house

To answer the question of how to properly mount the heating, it is important to choose the right equipment.

The basic element of any heating system is the boiler. His choice depends on the preferences of the consumer and his financial capabilities.

Hybrid boilers can be safely called universal, since they operate with the same efficiency on gas or solid fuel.

Boilers equipped with a set of automation show a higher efficiency.

Each boiler model is characterized by a certain power, therefore, you should choose the device that is most suitable for specific conditions. In this case, the material side should also be taken into account.

Drafting a project

Before installing heating in a private house, it is necessary to draw up a heating project. For this purpose, perform the following actions:

• Sketch the house.
• They divide the house into zones depending on the degree of comfort in each room.
• Determine the indicators of heat energy losses separately for each room.
• Calculate the number of sections individually for each battery.
• Select the type of heating system.
• Calculate the power of the boiler and the required amount of materials.

House sketch

Every homeowner has a plan of the house, so drawing a diagram of the premises is quite simple. This stage is performed independently.

Zoning

To stay in the house comfortable and cozy, and the consumption of thermal energy was economical, it is necessary to properly distribute heat throughout the premises. In this case, the following rules can be taken as a basis:

• The average comfortable temperature in the premises should not exceed 24 0 C.
• In the bedroom, comfort is felt at a temperature of 22 0 C -25 0 C.
• For bathrooms and lavatories, the indicators are reduced to 21 0 C. The same indicator is set for guest rooms.
• In the kitchen, dining room and work areas, the temperature can be reduced to 18-22 degrees.
• For a comfortable stay in the hallway, garage and walk-through area, you can set the temperature within 12 0 C.

Calculation of heat losses

At this stage, all external walls and corners are taken into account, since there are large heat losses in these places. The calculation takes into account the thickness of the walls and the thermal resistance of the material from which they are made.

Each element of the house fencing has its own heat loss values. For example, at a temperature of -30 0 С through a double-glazed window, up to 135 W per 1 m 2 goes out. With the same temperature indicators, heat losses through solid double wooden doors are up to 234 W per 1 m 2. Through the attic ceiling at -30 degrees, up to 35 W of heat is lost per square meter. 1 m 2 of wooden floor above the basement deprives the room of 26 watts of thermal energy.

The choice of radiators and the number of sections

Radiators are quite an important part of the heating system, as they determine the amount of required heat in the room and affect the durability of the entire system.

Batteries can be:

• Cast iron.
• Steel.
• Aluminum.
• Bimetallic.

Cast iron batteries are characterized by high heat transfer, but at the same time they have a rather large mass.

Durability and good heat dissipation are characteristic of bimetallic radiators. However, the cost of such elements is too high, which forces most consumers to refuse such an option.

Aluminum radiators have a short operating life, and steel heat exchangers do not heat the room well in severe frosts.

The calculation of the number of sections is carried out as follows: heat losses are determined and multiplied by the safety factor, which is 1.2. Then the resulting value is divided by the heat output of one section of the radiator. When receiving a fractional number, round up.

A simplified version of determining the number of battery sections involves the use of the following scheme: one radiator section is capable of heating about two square meters of a room up to 3 meters high. With high heat losses, it is necessary to purchase sections with a small margin.

The optimal place for installing radiators of the heating system is the area under the window. In this case, less heat is lost through the window opening. However, it is possible that some of the heat from the battery will be spent on heating the wall. This can be prevented by installing a foil "screen" on a section of the wall behind the radiator. Reflecting from the foil, the heat flux returns to the room, while not the wall heats up, but the air in the room.

Heating system selection

Based on the calculations performed, the type of piping of the heating system is selected. This takes into account many factors, but it is best to give preference to a two-pipe system.

Determination of boiler parameters for installation

In order for the boiler to cope with any emergency, it is necessary to select equipment with a power reserve. In this case, the room temperature will be comfortable even in severe frosts.

The required power is calculated as follows:

• The power of each device connected to the boiler is determined, including radiators.
• The resulting values ​​are summed up.
• The sum is multiplied by the ventilation heat loss factor equal to 1.4.
• The result is divided by the power utilization factor and the boiler efficiency.
• According to the obtained value, the appropriate equipment is selected.

Purchase of materials

At the final stage, measurements are made of the room, according to which they acquire the required amount of pipes. At the same time, we must not forget about a small stock, as for all materials, without exception, and sections for radiators, and other consumable items.

Installation work

Every homeowner wonders how to properly heat the house. Do-it-yourself installation of a heating system in a private house is carried out in several stages:

• First, they equip the room where the boiler will be installed. The interior decoration of this part of the house must be made of fireproof materials. You should also take care of good ventilation.
• When installing the boiler, remember that the equipment should not stand firmly on the floor, press against the wall and reach the ceiling. All measurements must be slightly indented. In addition, it is important to ensure free access to the boiler.
• Having installed the boiler, you can connect a circulation pump to the system or install a collector. The actions depend on the type of heating system selected.
• Further, the necessary control sensors and metering devices are mounted and fixed, as well as elements that allow regulating the operation of the entire system or its specific section.
• At the next stage, the installation of trunk pipelines is carried out. To fix the pipe elements in the walls, holes are made using a perforator. In the process of work, you should adhere to the basic rule for installing the heating system: for each running meter, a slope of 5 mm is made. Neglecting this rule can reduce the efficiency of the entire heating system, so you need to take a responsible approach to this stage.
• Completion of installation work can be called the installation of radiators. To fix them on the wall, make marks with a pencil or a marker and punch holes with a puncher into which the brackets are inserted. When making markings, adhere to the following: the distance from the floor to the lower level of the radiator should be 10 cm, from the wall to the rear surface - 2 cm, from the window sill - 10 cm. The inlet and outlet of each radiator is equipped with a valve for easier replacement or repair.
• After installing all the elements of the system, a check is performed. When installing a gas boiler, the presence of a gas service representative is required.

From the foregoing, we can conclude that the installation of heating systems in a private house is not a difficult process, which allows you to do most of all the work yourself. The main condition is compliance with the rules and unhurried installation. However, this is possible if you have a lot of free time. If the terms for the installation work are short, then you can entrust some of the steps to specialists. In some situations, this can save both time and money.

In order for the heating system to function flawlessly for a long enough period, it is necessary to purchase only high quality materials. By purchasing high-quality radiators, you can maximize the efficiency of the heating system and reduce fuel costs.

Despite the seeming simplicity, competent and correct organization of heating is a rather difficult task, especially for non-professionals. If you do not have the necessary skills, surprises in the form of the need to redo the work in the future, contacting specialists in the installation and design of heating systems for houses will help - in Moscow and the regions it should not be a big problem to find qualified installers. Therefore, you need to decide for a start whether it is worth developing a scheme for heating a private house with your own hands or contacting professionals.

It is very difficult to perform calculation and installation without specialized education.

In general, in order for a well-made heating to appear at home, you can go in the following ways:

Contact a specialized service that will perform both the creation of a heating scheme for a private house by the designer and installation work;

Order partial execution of installation work by specialists;

Get professional advice, and install heating in a private house yourself.

Regardless of which option you choose, you should imagine the entire mounting process in stages. Even if you do not have to do anything on your own, it will never hurt to monitor the progress of the work being performed.

What is home heating?

This is a set of engineering components designed to generate heat, transport it and maximize efficiency in the desired room, to maintain temperature conditions in it at a given level. Consists of:

The converter of the stored energy of fuel into heat (boiler);

Heating agent transportation systems (pipes)

Shut-off and control valves (taps, manifolds, etc.);

Devices for transferring heat to air or a hard surface (battery, heated towel rail, warm floor).

A sample project for the arrangement of a heating system for a private house

What is burned in boilers

The choice of the boiler is initially made according to the type of fuel from which it extracts heat energy:

Gas is a simple and inexpensive heating solution. The use of this type of fuel allows you to fully automate the heating process, subject to high-quality installation and adjustment of equipment;

Solid fuel is most often used in settlements where there is no gas pipeline. Used: firewood, briquettes, coal or pellets. These types of boilers have a drawback - it is impossible to fully automate the heating process. They require manual filling of the combustion chamber every 10 hours and a separate storage area for fuel. It is also necessary to periodically clean them. An intermediate solution is the use of an automatic dispenser - autonomy in this case depends on the size of the hopper. In some cases, it turns out to increase the operating time of the boiler without adding fuel to 5-12 days;

Electricity is the leader in terms of cost, and at the same time convenience and environmental friendliness of use. The main advantage of such devices is the ability to fully automate control. Also, such boilers practically do not need maintenance;

Liquid fuels (gasoline, diesel) are most often used in places where other sources of energy are not available. The efficiency of such boilers is about 80%, which makes them relatively economical.

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer heating and water supply services country houses. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the Low-Rise Country exhibition of houses.

Video description

Comparison of fuels in the video:

Heating medium transfer devices

For use as a heat transfer medium, the use of ordinary water will be a universal solution in terms of price and efficiency. True, such heating systems in private houses will require additional equipment to be installed. It includes the following elements:

Capacity to compensate for the expansion of the liquid when heated (open or membrane type);

Circulation pump;

Hydrostrel;

Buffer tank;

Collector. Needed if a beam wiring system is used;

Tank for indirect heating;

Sensors and devices for taking their readings (if automation is used).

Note. The expansion tank is an integral part of the water heating system. It must be installed without fail.

When heated, water increases in volume, which in a closed space increases the pressure in the pipes and often provokes their rupture. An expansion tank helps to avoid such consequences, into which excess water is displaced.

This is how the expansion tank looks in the system

The circulation pump ensures the movement of the coolant through the pipe network. The use of several pumping units for a large number of circuits is possible due to the installation of a separating hydraulic arrow, or a buffer tank, which simultaneously serves as a reservoir that accumulates heat. Especially the use of such equipment is shown for multi-storey private houses.

Distribution manifolds are most often installed to supply warm floors or when connecting radiators in a beam pattern. As for the tank for indirect heating, it is a tank with a coil that heats water for the needs of hot water supply.

Measuring devices are installed for visual control over temperature indicators and pressure in pipes. To ensure the automation of the heating process, pressure sensors, temperature regulators and controllers are installed.

Varieties of batteries in shape and material

There are various types of heating devices on the market, each of which has its own design features and characteristics. During the installation of heating in a private house, an important condition for the correct operation of the entire installation is the correct selection of the heating block.

Correctly selected batteries are the key to uniform heating of the room.

There are the following types:

Sectional cast iron batteries. Their disadvantages are bulkiness, unprepossessing appearance, possible violation of the integrity of the joints between the sections, as well as a low degree of heat transfer; Instead, they are characterized by resistance to pressure drops and an impressive service life.

Sectional batteries made of bimetallic materials. The radiator sections are made of light-alloy metal, and the inside is lined with stainless steel. They are distinguished by their durability, practicality and aesthetic appearance. Unlike cast iron radiators, bimetallic ones are able to withstand higher pressure;

Sectional aluminum batteries are made of light alloy metals without the use of steel. They have high rates of thermal conductivity, and the working pressure is comparable to that of cast iron radiators;

Panel batteries made of steel. They are non-separable welding structures with decorative cladding and have high heat transfer rates. The disadvantages include low operating pressure, which limits the scope of application.

• The convector is a finned tube designed for the same pressure as in the main pipelines.

Important! The use of steel pipes for concealed installation of the liner is strongly discouraged. It is also forbidden to dock different materials with each other - a common mistake is connecting copper pipes to aluminum radiators.

The pipelines through which the coolant enters the heating devices can be made of polymer and combined materials, copper or steel.

Pipelines and splitters made of various materials

The basis for choosing any autonomous heating circuit is the purchase of a boiler with the required design and operating on a certain type of fuel. The main selection criteria:

Reliability and safety;

Operation on commonly available fuel;

Compact dimensions;

Ease of maintenance, adjustment;

Maintainability;

Safety is an absolute advantage of a hot water heating system. But in addition to the positive aspects, it has disadvantages:

• The difficulty of heating large rooms due to significant heat loss during the circulation of the coolant through the pipes;

Additional costs for hiding the branched network of pipes and heating devices under the cladding to preserve the aesthetics of the appearance of the rooms;

Large size batteries;

Possible problems after draining the coolant from the pipes, in the form of air jams.

What the thermal imager shows if there is air in the sections

What heating systems are used by the wiring method

Structurally, a water heating system can be implemented in the following ways:

Single-circuit. It is closed and focused only on space heating;

Double-circuit. Requires the installation of a boiler of a certain design. It is focused on both space heating and hot water supply to taps.

According to the method of distributing heating from the boiler in private houses, the following types are distinguished:

One pipe connection

The pipes are looped here, and the batteries are connected one after the other. The coolant moves from the boiler to each radiator in turn. Its significant drawback is the uneven heating of heating devices. The further they are from the boiler, the lower the temperature in them. Moreover, such a heating arrangement is quite common due to its economy and simple design.

Difference between one-pipe and two-pipe connections

The following tricks can be applied to reduce heat loss:

Install the last radiators with an increased number of sections;

Increase the temperature of the coolant, but this will increase costs;

Install the pump - go from gravity water circulation to forced water circulation. In this case, the water will flow faster through the system and return to the boiler.

Two-pipe connection

Here, additional branch pipes are used, which take the cooled coolant from the batteries back to the boiler. Hot water transfer takes place without heat loss.

Also, parallel connection makes it possible to save on material.

Radial heating distribution

This type of heating distribution in private houses is essentially a set of small autonomous circuits. The water pressure and temperature in each of them can be adjusted separately. It is still used quite rarely due to the complexity of the execution. In addition to a large number of pipes, it requires the installation of additional equipment, namely a collector, which plays the role of an accumulator with the subsequent distribution of the coolant.

Video description

An example of a radial heating system in the video:

Liquid circulation methods

The movement of the coolant through the pipes is carried out by gravity (convection and expansion), or by force. In the first case, the liquid heated in the boiler, due to convection, moves through the pipe network to the radiators. This movement of water is called direct current. Further, the coolant cooled down in the batteries moves back to the heating boiler, after which the cycle is repeated. This segment is reverse current.

To increase the rate of circulation of the heat carrier through the pipes, specialized pumping units are used, installed between the return flow pipes. There are models of heating boilers with built-in pumps.

Natural way to circulate

The movement of the coolant here is carried out in a natural way, without the application of extraneous forces. Here, the simplest physical principle is used, due to which water is heated in a kettle, and this happens because its hot layers are lighter than cold ones and rise to the top.

An example of natural circulation of a heating medium

This is how the whole process takes place - the water heated in the boiler rises to the highest point of the distribution and then moves by gravity under its own weight (the pipes are at a slope of 3-4 degrees). Passing through the batteries, the water cools down, its density increases, and when it comes to the heating boiler, it displaces the already heated layers upward.

Heating systems based on this type of circulation are quite simple and do not require the installation of additional equipment, which simplifies the installation process. But they are only suitable for houses with a small area due to restrictions on the length of the circuit of 30 meters. Also, the disadvantages include the need to install pipes with a large diameter and low pressure indicators.

Artificial way of circulation

The implementation of the forced movement of liquid through pipes requires the mandatory installation of a pumping unit that provides increased circulation. The circulation of the coolant is provided by the difference in pressures of the forward and reverse stroke. The installation of such structures does not require the calculation and observance of the inclination of the pipes, which is an undoubted advantage.

With forced circulation, pipe slopes do not need to be done

The disadvantages include volatility - if the electricity goes out in winter, then without a generator, water simply will not move through the pipes. This is an important point that must be taken into account when choosing the type of coolant circulation.

Installation of heating with forced movement of the coolant can be carried out in houses with any quadrature. The power of the pumping unit is selected individually.

Heating system calculation

To make the correct installation of heating, it is necessary to calculate the basic parameters, which will make it possible to determine the required boiler power, the size of the pipeline and the capacity of the radiators.

To begin with, the dimensions of all rooms are calculated. To maintain a moderate temperature regime, a boiler with a power of 70 W / m³ should be installed, including a mandatory reserve of 20% to reduce the load.

Video description

For questions regarding air heating, see this video. :

The capacity of the required batteries is calculated individually for each room. The initial power indicator of the heating boiler is multiplied by the dimensions of the room. To the obtained value, 20% are added and divided by the power indicators of one battery section. The result is rounded. It shows the required number of battery ribs per room.

Errors made during installation

The most common mistakes when performing calculations or installing heating are:

Incorrect determination of the required boiler power;

Incorrect strapping;

An illiterate choice of the heating scheme itself;

• Incorrect installation of all elements.

Insufficient boiler performance is the most common error. It is done when, during the selection of a heat generator for heating and the needs of hot water supply, the required additional power for heating water is not taken into account.

Incorrect selection of the heating scheme leads to additional costs for reworking the entire structure. Such a mistake is made when installing a single-pipe wiring with more than 6 radiators. A large number of batteries do not allow them to warm up.

The last heating elements in the chain will always remain cold

Also, during installation, the slopes of the pipelines are not respected, pipes of poor quality are connected and inappropriate additional equipment is being installed.

When installing underfloor heating, pipes are insulated without fail, in order to avoid heat loss on the way to the heating "snail".

A common mistake during the connection of pipelines is the excess of the time required to obtain a reliable joint for the action of the soldering iron on the pipes. As a result, their inner diameter decreases and a bottleneck forms.

Conclusion

A correctly selected heating scheme in a private house and its correct installation will provide heat to all rooms during the cold season. You can install heating in a private house yourself, but if you have doubts about your abilities, then it will be more economical to turn to professionals.

Today, there are many technologies and methods for heating a private house. You need to choose the best heating option for your home, which will provide a comfortable indoor climate and save costs. It is important to correctly install turnkey heating systems so that during operation you do not have to carry out repair work to ensure a long service life.

Heating system in the house

Heating system classification

There are the following types of heating systems:

1. Water heating of a private house. Hot water in a closed loop is used as a heat carrier. Heating is done with a boiler.
2. Steam heating. The water is heated to the boiling point and enters the pipeline in the form of steam, heating the heating devices; it returns back in the form of condensate.
3. Air heating. Such a system can only be installed during construction. The boiler heats up the air that rises through the heat channels and, displacing the cold air, heats the room.
4. Electric heating can be in the form of electric heaters, underfloor heating, infrared film, or an electric boiler that heats the coolant using electricity. The cost depends on the electricity tariff.

There are also schemes for the device of heating systems:

• A single-pipe system is a circuit consisting of one pipe of a sufficiently large diameter, to which heating radiators are connected in series.

Some sources claim that if one of the radiators is shut off or if it fails, the entire system is shut off. In fact, such a scenario is possible only in the case of incorrect design of the heat pipe.

• The two-pipe system consists in the fact that the supply of the coolant to the radiator is carried out through one pipe, and the "return" returns through the other, passing nearby. The cooled water is returned to the boiler and sent to the supply.
• The collector heating system consists in the fact that the hot coolant is supplied to the collector, and from it is distributed to each radiator separately.

There are ways of circulating the coolant in the system:

1. Natural circulation is carried out due to the physical properties of water to expand under the influence of high temperature. The hot coolant expands and, displacing the cooled water, enters the heating radiators.
2. Forced circulation is carried out by forcing the coolant in the system using a pump.

Training

Before starting the installation of heating, you will need to perform preliminary work and prepare the necessary material:

1. A tool is being prepared, the type and scheme of heating is determined, according to the calculation, a boiler is purchased.
2. The type of radiators and their volume in each room are determined.
3. The calculation of the need for materials (pipes, fittings, taps, fasteners, etc.) is performed.
4. Everything you need is purchased at a point of sale.

Tool

To carry out a high-quality installation of heating, any specialist will need tools:

• level;
• metric tape measure;
• pliers;
• screwdriver with various attachments;
• wrench (different sizes);
• adjustable or gas wrench;
• cutter for polypropylene pipes;
• soldering iron for pipes;
• Bulgarian;
• puncher;
• a hammer.

Piping Installation Tools

Heating circuit

1. Boiler. Carries out heating of the coolant.
2. Heating radiators. Heating the room directly.
3. Expansion tank. The heating medium expands during heating, and its excess accumulates in the expansion tank.
4. Boiler safety group: pressure gauge - monitors the pressure in the system, the air vent - automatically releases air from the system, the safety valve is used when the pressure is critical.
5. Pump. Provides forced circulation of the coolant through the system.
6. Collector. Distributes the coolant to heating devices.
7. Temperature regulator. Sets the required room temperature.
8. Air vents. Air accumulated in the system is released.
9. Water heater. As a backup heating method.
10. Chimney. It removes from the boiler the gases formed in the course of fuel combustion.

Choosing a heating boiler

The boiler is selected depending on the source of heat energy.

• A gas boiler. Most often, such a boiler is used as the main source of heating. The fuel for such equipment is natural gas, so it is installed only if there is a gas pipeline nearby, to which you can crash. There are many models on the market, but the cost of heating in a particular region depends on the price of gas.

Advantages:

1. Work automation.
2. No combustion products remain.
3. High efficiency.

Flaws:

1. Danger due to open flames and possible gas leakage.
2. The need for a chimney.
3. A gas pipeline is required.

• Solid fuel boiler. Such a unit is used for main or additional heating. Firewood, eurowood, coal, etc. are taken as fuel.

Advantages:

1. Ease of operation.
2. Versatility for different fuels.
3. Independence from trunk communications.

Flaws:

1. Large dimensions.
2. Requires control of the heating process.

Leaves combustion products. It needs to be cleaned periodically.

• Electric boiler. This equipment converts electrical energy into heat. The coolant in the expansion tank is heated by heating elements and supplied to the heating system.

Advantages:

1. Easy to install.
2. Compact dimensions.
3. Ease of operation.
4. No combustion products remain.
5. Low cost of equipment.

Flaws:

1. High electricity consumption.
2. The electric wire must meet the requirements of the electric boiler.
3. High cost of ownership.

Range of heating boilers on the market

Pipeline layout

The developed diagram indicates where the pipes pass. Now the layout is carried out on the walls of the room according to the specified scheme. Places are marked where it is necessary to make holes in the structure for laying pipes. Also, the places for the device of fasteners (clips) are marked, their size depends on the diameter of the pipe and brackets for mounting radiators.

To route pipes through walls and ceilings, it is necessary to make holes in the structures using a perforator. The hole should be slightly larger than the pipe diameter. To make holes in a wooden structure, a drill with a drill for wood is used.

For the installation of clips and brackets, holes are drilled in the walls according to the already made markings.

While the pipe is being routed through the hole, its end must be covered with a film in order to avoid debris and dust getting into the pipe.

Nowadays, polypropylene pipes are most often used for the installation of a heating pipeline. There are many types of them, they have different cost, diameter, wall thickness, design and technical characteristics.

Pipes with thin walls are not able to resist high pressure and high temperature of the coolant, therefore they are not used in the heating system. For this, polypropylene pipes are used, reinforced with aluminum foil or fiberglass, capable of withstanding pressures up to 25 bar and temperatures up to 90 ° C.

Appropriate fittings are required to install polypropylene piping. There is a huge variety of them, they also differ depending on the purpose. Use fittings for splicing pipes, elbows, triple and cross joints; as shut-off valves, etc.

Polypropylene pipes and fittings

Brazing pipes

To connect the elements of the pipeline, a special soldering iron is used, which has two nozzles. Each pair of nozzles corresponds to a specific pipe diameter. One nozzle heats the outer surface of the pipe, while the other simultaneously heats the inner surface of the fitting. The heating process takes no more than 7 seconds. Then the elements are connected.

During heating and connection, it is forbidden to rotate the installed elements of the pipeline.

After connecting, it is necessary to hold the parts for up to 30 seconds in order for them to cool down, and the soldering was performed evenly. Consistently connecting the elements of the pipeline, it is installed on a turnkey basis.

The following types of radiators are used as heating devices for heating a private house:

• cast iron;
• aluminum;
• bimetallic;
• steel panel;
• steel tubular.

Types of heating radiators

The choice of a radiator is influenced by: the wish of the owner of the house, design solution, cost of equipment, technical characteristics.

Turnkey installation of radiators has a certain sequence of work:

1. The radiator must be installed strictly horizontally; for this, brackets are arranged according to the markings made earlier.
2. The necessary plugs, gaskets, a thermostat to correct the required temperature and a Mayevsky valve for air removal are installed on the radiator.
3. Stop valves are installed on the supply and "return" lines.
4. The radiator is connected to the pipeline.

Cast iron radiators are heavy. To hang them on the wall, you need to use powerful brackets.

Mounting

Heating system installation sequence:

1. Boiler installation. It is unacceptable to install wall-mounted boilers in a niche, and floor-standing ones close to the wall. A gas pipeline is connected to a gas boiler, and a separate cable to an electric one.
2. A chimney pipe is connected to a special outlet and secured with clamps. The pipe is arranged vertically and led outside the house. If the pipe is tall, it must be attached to the building structure at a certain pitch.
3. The boiler is piped. The piping is the installation of the necessary components of the heating system located near the boiler.

The harness includes:

• Installation of coolant supply and outlet.
• A coarse filter device that cuts into the pipeline.
• Installation of a circulation pump. Before and after it, shut-off valves are mounted in case of easy dismantling of the pump.
• The expansion tank is installed in the attic of the house and, with the help of pipes, cuts into the system between the boiler and the pump. It is necessary in case of expansion of the volume of the coolant.
• The boiler safety group is mounted at the coolant outlet. This group includes a pressure gauge that controls the pressure in the system, an automatic air vent to remove accumulated air and a safety valve that releases excess coolant when the pressure in the system is increased.
• The ball valve makes it possible to connect a hose in order to make up for the lack of coolant if necessary.
• In wall-mounted boilers, all piping components are also present, but they are compactly located inside the body.
• If a collector system is arranged, then a collector is mounted. It is fixed to the wall using a special mount and connected to the pipe using shutoff valves.
• The pipeline is being laid in the building using the above technology.
• Heating radiators are mounted to the pipeline. The technology is shown above.
• After complete installation, the system is filled with coolant, and a test run of heating is carried out.

After the installation of all components of the heating system, the work can be considered completed.

With your own hands. Video

The video below is about installing a home heating system with your own hands.

Thanks to modern technologies, the installation of a turnkey heating system is carried out very quickly. Experienced specialists are able to complete all technological processes during the day. But even for a person who does not have proper experience, it is quite possible to do the installation work with his own hands. To do this, you need to purchase or rent tools, carefully study the method of performing the work and observe the installation technology.

In contact with