Kumihimo is the Japanese art of cord weaving. Japanese women tied their kimonos with these cords made of silk threads, and samurai attached their swords to it. We can use this technique to make shoe laces, decorate gifts, and the same belt for a dress or trousers. The kumihimo bauble was often woven by followers as a mandatory attribute on their wrist or hair. And you can weave such a decoration for your daughter. By the way, those who are seriously into kumihimo weave entire canvases.
The technique of weaving kumihimo is complex and varied. Round, flat and hollow cords can be obtained. We offer you kumihimo for beginners; 16 threads will be used, resulting in a round cord-amulet.
Weaving kumihimo cords: necessary materials
Weaving requires a special device. The kumihimo machine, marudai, used by the Japanese in the Middle Ages was large and made of wood. Nowadays, lovers of cord weaving use small round devices with a diameter of 10 cm made of plastic or thick cardboard. You can easily make it yourself. Having cut out a circle, make a hole with a diameter of 1 cm in its center, and 32 notches with curves along the edges so that the threads fit there better. Don’t forget to also mark with a pen 16 sectors on the marudai and a diamond indicating the start. It is quite convenient to use cardboard spools when weaving kumihimo so that the threads do not get tangled. In addition, you will need threads, for example, iris, in two colors, ours is green and red.
The fashion for baubles began in the era of hippies, who hung themselves with all kinds of decorations made from ribbons and ropes. They, in turn, adopted this tradition from the American Indians, who, by exchanging woven bracelets, confirmed their friendship. In the modern world, there are a large number of types of similar baubles, which are woven using various technologies that have come to us from different parts of the planet.
The history of kumihimo
Kumihimo is one of the oldest types of weaving that was invented in Japan. It appeared during the period of the spread of Buddhism in this country in the 550s. Literally translated, “kumihimo” means “to weave a lace” (or rope). They were made for special ceremonies and rituals. Subsequently, they were used for a belt in a kimono and for tying samurai weapons or any heavy objects.
The laces were made from thick and durable material. But later the masters began to think about how to weave kumihimo from thinner threads. For this purpose, a small round machine called marudai was developed. This greatly facilitated and accelerated the work of the craftsmen. Since it was difficult to weave flat kumihimo on such a device, they came up with another square-shaped loom - takadai.
Kumihimo machine
The designs of machine tools, invented in ancient Japan, are still popular. But since weaving kumihimo became a popular activity, a very simple device was invented. It is a small circle or square cut from solid material. It can be cardboard, plastic, polyurethane or foam. The cuts are evenly spaced around the circle. On a square machine there are 12 slots on one side, and the same number on the opposite side. 4 cuts each on the remaining two. Such machines are more primitive, but easy to use and transport.
First steps in weaving kumihimo
In order to understand how to weave kumihimo, you need to try it once. You should start with a small number of threads. For example, you can take 4 threads, the length of which should be twice as long as necessary. Preferably in different colors to make learning easier.
These threads must be folded in half. Tie tightly in the middle with any strong rope. And we distribute such a bundle, in which there are 8 threads, throughout the machine. This is done as follows. You can mark numbers on the machine, like on a watch dial. We thread the tail of the future kumihimo lace (the place where the threads are tied) into the central hole of the machine. Next, two threads of the same color must be threaded into the hole at 12 o'clock, following to where the number 6 is located on the dial. The remaining two sets should be distributed by tone at 3 and 9 o'clock on the machine.
Weaving
Weaving should begin with threads that are located at the 12 o'clock position. Take the top right one and lower it to the opposite side in the direction of the arrows. It is placed in the cell adjacent to the right thread, which is located at the 6 o'clock position. We also raise the left thread from the bottom pair along the dial to the lonely thread at 12 o’clock and thread it into the adjacent right cell.
Next, scroll the dial so that the pair at 3 o’clock becomes the top. We do the same with these threads and those lying opposite. And so on, each time turning the machine a quarter turn, we work with each pair in turn. The main thing is to remember that the upper thread must be taken on the right, and the lower thread on the left. You can weave in the opposite direction and turn the machine counterclockwise, you will get the same rope. The main attention should be paid to how to weave kumihimo correctly and in which direction the work was started, especially if the process was interrupted.
This is how weaving occurs. The finished rope will come out of the hole into which the tail of the product was threaded at the beginning of the work. When the required length is ready, the threads are removed from the loom and tied. The excess must be cut off with scissors. Learning how to weave a kumihimo bauble is a simple task, but it requires a little attention and perseverance.
Weaving a flat kumihimo cord
A square machine is designed for flat cord. For beginners, it is better to start weaving with a small number of threads. For example, you can take 8 threads of yellow, 7 of green, and 2 of blue. Tie a bunch of threads. Thread the tail into the central hole. A large number of threads are inserted into the machine cuts. On one side - yellow, on the other - green, where there are most holes. They must be positioned in such a way that on one side of the machine there is a free cell on the right or left edge. Two blue threads are distributed one at a time onto two free sides.
near the yellow one, it must be moved to the vacant place in the opposite row. And so one by one, changing places, the green ones move to the yellow ones and vice versa. After this, the blue threads, which are also located on opposite sides, are swapped. And the change in the arrangement of large rows of threads begins again. You need to start from the corner of the machine that has a free cell on the opposite side.
For professionals and those who know how to weave kumihimo, the patterns are much more complex and more colors are involved in production. For beginners, it is important to learn the basics, and the rest will come with experience.
Products
Basically, such products are worn as bracelets. Often they are hung with decorations in the form of various figures or letters. Many people use such cords for bag handles.
You can also weave kumihimo with threads on which beads are attached. In this case, you can make both bracelets and neck jewelry. They look especially beautiful when made entirely of beaded threads.
Kumihimo literally means "rope weaving" in Spanish. This technique originated in Japan back in the middle of the 6th century, when it was used to make strong and flexible ropes that were used to secure weapons on samurai belts and tie up kimonos. In those days they were woven from silk threads or leather strips. Modern needlewomen continue to expand the variety of kumihimo weaving patterns, because the ability to vary the number of threads, shapes and colors helps create many fashionable handmade jewelry. For example, baubles, bracelets, belts, and also make interesting decorative elements, like curtain garters.
Kumihimo ropes are knitted from various threads, you can use silk and even floss folded in 6 layers, in general, any one you wish. The set can be made starting from the number of 4, 8 threads and then in geometric progression equal to 2. If you are interested in how to weave kumihimo, for beginners this article will tell you the initial basics of this ancient Japanese skill.
Tools for work
For this technique, special devices or entire machines are used; the most common and universal one is called marudai. It is a smooth wooden structure made of a circle with a hole in the middle on legs with a stand. A weight with the required number of threads is suspended inside it, the other ends of the threads, in turn, are wound on special spools and laid out from the middle. Further actions depend on the type of rope. On such a machine you can weave round, square and flat ropes of various patterns. It is possible to make Marudai yourself from available materials, but it is necessary to observe the condition of smoothness so that the threads do not cling to anything.
Instead of a marudai machine, you can use a pocket device in the form of a circle made of dense material with a hole in the middle and notches along the circumference. The diameter of such a circle can be small up to 15 cm, the hole from 1 cm, but there should be 32 compartments for threads, located at the same distance from each other. On such a “loom” cords of up to 16 threads are woven. During the work, the threads are moved along the notches in a circle, weaving a pattern. The work is painstaking, but not difficult.
Where to begin
To delve into the process itself, let's look at one example of weaving. Whatever color you choose, first you need to decide what scheme you will work with. Usually, if you learn the very principle of weaving, you can come up with patterns using different colors.
How does this happen on the mini version of the Marudai machine? First you need to mark where the start will be and place it on top. In the notches we fix a bundle of 16 threads, 2.5 times longer than the desired length of the finished cord. We place the beam node in the middle of the circle. At the start, we fasten 2 threads in adjacent notches, then alternate through 2 empty notches. Further steps are shown in the photo:
As you can see, everything is quite simple, but this is only one type of pattern; its pattern varies depending on the number and arrangement of colors on the circle itself.
There are special applications of the program where you just need to select the colors of the threads, and it shows what kind of pattern you will get. But with sufficient visual imagination, you can calculate everything yourself.
Clue. To create diagonal lines in a spiral, place threads of the same color parallel to each other.
The marudai machine is mastered by more “involved” craftsmen who are constantly passionate about this activity - weaving ropes. Creativity requires only careful distribution, monotonously repeating movements in a circle. As you work, it becomes clear how the threads fit on top of each other and how they will combine the desired pattern. Working on a universal machine does not complicate a person’s posture, and he can easily relax in this way, weaving thread by thread to his favorite music and movies.
Meet Japanese baubles, or the kumihimo weaving technique.
In earlier times, kumihimo laces were used to tie kimono belts or use them as belts for samurai swords. But fashion does not stand still. Kumihimo crossed the threshold of their homeland, came to the West - and became laces on sneakers, baubles on the wrists of hippies, fashionable woven belts for Rastafari and even... scarves for football fans with slogans like “Zenith is a champion!”
Some archival facts
Kumihimo means "rope weaving" (kumi (組)) in Japanese.- weaving, folding together, himo (紐) - rope, lace). Despite the fact that historians stubbornly insist that similar weaving can be found among the Scandinavians and Andean inhabitants, the Japanese art of kumihimo is truly one of the most ancient types of weaving. The first mention of it dates back to 550, when Buddhism spread throughout Japan and special ceremonies required special decorations. Later, kumihimo laces began to be used as a fastener for the obi belt on a woman’s kimono, as ropes for “packing” the entire samurai arsenal of weapons, and also for tying together heavy objects.
In the Middle Ages, kumihimo cords were used to beautifully decorate gifts for royalty.
At first, the inhabitants of the Land of the Rising Sun wove braids from strong threads and leather ropes. But later, special machines appeared to make the work of kumihimo masters easier and allow them to use more delicate material. The most popular of these machines is marudai 「丸台」 , or, translated from Nihongo, “round stand”. This miracle of technology appeared around 1575. Another, less popular machine is takadai 「高台”」 , or "square stand".
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Typically the machines have 32 divisions. And this is the beginning of “kumihimo arithmetic”.
Kumihimo
I lied a little. At first it will seem that the additions in kumihimo are simple. But appetite comes with eating, and, having learned to handle four threads, you will already want to handle eight and sixteen, and then it’s not far to two to the fifth power, i.e. thirty two. In other words, kumihimo arithmetic consists of actions with the number 2. Either the number of threads is taken to the power of 2. Or the same thread can make 1, 2, 4, 8 movements before giving way to the remaining ones. Or the divisions along which the thread makes its rounds will be divisible by 2. It is better not to bother with this and not look for the Fibonacci series again. The main thing is to practice and try to remember the scheme. Next, the hand itself will begin to involuntarily pull the thread to the desired division.
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In fact, if in algebra, or even better in computer science, you had a grade above the score in the school magazine, then you can easily cope with any mathematical kumihimo pattern. Be that as it may, first you will have to master the simple, most primitive weaving.
As already mentioned, kumihimo requires a special machine. For example, marudai. Its main device is a stand, the surface of which is called kagami (「鏡」－“mirror”), omori weights （錘） for simplified work with silk threads, tama bobbins, a separating stick (you can steal it from a Chinese restaurant - just kidding), s-shaped hook and special clamps. The machine looks simpler than its description, doesn’t it?
Just don’t rush to run and order it from your friends abroad. Such machines can cost about 50 conventional units and more. Instead, you can print out a picture, or at least from this page, stick it on cardboard, slightly cut the divisions, and - forward to repeating arithmetic powers of two!
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Please note that round and square plates are different from each other. Round is more versatile. On it you can create flat and voluminous baubles, laces, napkins and even weave lace. On square plates you can weave mostly flat ribbons or baubles.
The advantages of records or cardboards compared to machines are obvious: you can take them on vacation and calm your nerves while waiting for a grade on the next exam. This is definitely not something you can do with traditional machines.
In fact, there are 32 divisions - on square and round plates. There are no divisions on the machines. Therefore, you can use as many threads as you like on the stands and braid them however you like. For beginners, it is better not to use machines at all. Difficult. And you can also spend as much nerves as you like.
If you absolutely want to start with professional looms, order the correct weaving instructions. They are usually included with the order. The following markings are adopted in the manuals: K1 - weaving for beginners, K2 - advanced level, K3 - kumihimo expert.
Weaving the first lace
To begin, take 4 threads of different colors and a disk. The length of the threads is based on the “desired length of the cord + another 30 cm.”
Let's tie the threads into a knot: this will be the beginning of the work. And then we will thread them into divisions according to the compass principle (north-south-west-east). First, two opposite threads make their “move” vertically, then horizontally.
Each of the threads moves to the opposite position diagonally, i.e. rotates 180 degrees.
When all four threads were in opposite positions, the first round of weaving was completed. And then we repeat everything again: first, vertical threads move into opposite divisions, then horizontal ones. You will get a braid of four threads.
Now let's stop and think. What's next? You can weave the same braid from threads of other colors or replace silk threads with cotton ones. Or you can even weave the same braid from threads of beads, of course, in four colors. From the same braid, if you vary the thickness of the threads, you can also make a belt and a cell phone strap. Are you tired?
Then let's get to the palettes!
Is Kongoo gumi a construction company or a type of weaving?
The most popular palette set for beginners is called kongoo gumi. This system is designed for 8 or 16 threads. Using different options for traversing the threads along the disk, you can get the shape of hearts, triangles, diamonds and even roses with six petals on the laces. It is better to start with threads of two colors. And the usual disk with 32 divisions can be divided into 16 sectors. The principle of weaving is similar to the weaving of the first lace (above), that is, each thread goes only to the opposite division.
Kongō gumi （「金剛組」）- one of the most popular types of kumihimo weaving. It is named after the oldest construction company in the country. This organization custom-built the famous Osaka Castle back in 578. Therefore, when asking this term in a search engine, take care not to end up on the construction company’s website.
To get patterns, you just need to remember the positions of the thread colors and move the dial counterclockwise.
For example, if you want to get a pattern with diamonds in a kongoo gumi lace, the thread of the first color is placed in the divisions on the disk with numbers: 1, 6, 7, 16. The second color is placed in the serifs of the disk with numbers 2, 3, 4, 5, 8 , 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15.
For the hearts you also need to take threads of two colors. Place the first color in divisions 1, 3, 5, 8, 9, 10, and the second color in all others.
If your soul asks for feats and is not looking for easy ways, you can try to weave rose flowers. Here you will have to take three colors of thread. Place the main background color in serifs 1, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 14, 16. Thread the thread for the petals in positions 2, 3, 5, 6, 13, 15. And place the center of the flower in the slot number 4.
What are the powers that be doing in the Kumihimo world?
In the West, the fashion for kumihimo spread like a chain reaction. For some reason, the largest number of followers of this art are in Great Britain and the Commonwealth countries. British kumihimo guru Keri Jackie has published a huge number of books on different types of weaving. However, the Japanese themselves prefer to come and share their experience with a master from California, Rodrick Owen.
Rodrik is famous for the fact that he prefers the not so popular square takadai to the widely used round loom marudai. But with his author’s brand the famous Itsukushima films and not only them are released. In addition to producing products on the Takadai machine, the master gives a huge variety of video lessons, thanks to which everyone can find their niche in this art and start creating at any level.
Itsukushima are traditional Japanese ribbons made from a large number of threads. They have been known since the 7th century.
Japanese craftsmen and regulars of Owen's workshop, Makiko Tada and Tamaki Hirata, also published a huge number of books on the topic “How to make a beautiful scarf or weave something out of the ordinary.” But it’s best to look for their books last. After all, these maestros use more than 80 threads in their works! It is clear that such manuals are clearly not for beginners, but for those who are okay with logical and arithmetic thinking. You have to keep a very complex scheme in your head and remember, without taking notes, at what stage the work is now!
Books by these and other masters, as well as master classes, can be found on this portal: http://www.squidoo.com/kumihimo.
Beauty is a terrible force. But don't let its arithmetic principles scare you. Experiment, come up with your own patterns - and everything will definitely work out like 2+2!
Now some comments and secrets about the article.
* I again deleted some transliterations according to Polivanov
* In the article I added my photographs of kumihimo, which were taken a year after writing the article. Black and red kumihimo (with violet, and similar ones) are the work of my hands, you can find photos on flickr from the user ... donkey-schon *))) I wove these laces directly according to the template given in the article. The diameter of the template was 16 centimeters
*Writing the article took about a month; in addition, I had to study a lot of literature and websites, of which there were few at that time; in 2008-2009 I had to compose an article from what was available. Previously, the article contained more understandable palettes; I painted them myself in Photoshop, using a small manual in English. I couldn’t find them, so I used what I had
* Some of the pictures in this posting are actually pictures that were in the article on Planet of Schools when it was first published. However, as stated above, I did not find everything
*The author of the publication is Laura Lokken, not Dunki Sean, because this nickname was created specifically for the “fashion and handcrafting” category on the planet of schools. The theme was considered more “crafts” than “Japan”, so Laura’s nickname was chosen. First two articles Laura Lokken in the “fashion” category on the planet of schools were written by another girl named Gulya, then she left for the USA, and I decided to “pick up a nickname” and retain this category.
*When the article was first published, not everyone could make kumihimo according to the schemes indicated at the beginning. Therefore, another girl named Katya, after some time, added a video from the site fene4ki.ru to the article. I decided to leave this video for my blog, because it really clearly illustrates the whole process
* After the main informational part of the article, there were a lot of collages and types of kumihimo, right down to wicker slippers with heels. I sat in Photoshop for a long time, preparing this type of content, but there was almost none of it left on the Internet, because both planetashkol.ru and soneta.ru, to which the “planet” later moved, no longer exist. And the pictures on other blogs were mostly copied from this resource. As a result, I removed this part of the article, although, of course, I tried to preserve it as much as possible.
* When I re-read the article, I was stopped several times by phrases like “cola in mathematics”, “with highly developed logical thinking.” These stop phrases make a negative impression, but I decided not to rewrite them, but to leave them as they were originally. So, I apologize in advance for such lines. Our lyrics always had to be daring and provocative *)))
We continue to study exotic types of needlework. Today we will get acquainted with such an original type of handicraft art as kumihimo. The word "kumihimo" literally translates to "weaving ropes." Thus, kumihimo is nothing more than a colorful Japanese lace woven from threads.
The art of kumihimo originated in the 6th century, and not among handicraft girls, but among stern samurai. Kumihimo cords, woven from strips of leather or silk, were used by brutal fighters for a variety of purposes, from girdling a kimono to creating complex and durable garters for all sorts of male purposes. It was only over time that kumihimo weaving expanded beyond the military camp. Noble ladies had already decorated kimonos with elegant multi-colored cords, and over time, needlewomen figured out how to weave bracelets using the kumihimo technique, make garters for curtains, etc.
What do you need to weave kumihimo?
Traditionally, special machines are used for knitting kumihimo. To weave a round cord, you need a machine that looks like a donut with legs, and for a flat one, you need a square machine. But in principle, you can completely do without a machine. Or rather, you can make a machine with your own hands.
Round kumihimo, as we have already said, is made on a machine that resembles a donut. However, modern needlewomen have adapted to weaving a spiral cord on a circle with a hole in the center. It's easy to make it yourself. For a circle you need to take something dense - hard cardboard, plywood, a sheet of plastic. On a circle (usually 10-15 cm in diameter), 32 slits are made along the edge, and a small hole in the center.
Flat kumihimo is made on a square machine, which can also be replaced with a homemade one made of cardboard, plastic or plywood. A square with a side of 15 cm is somewhat similar to a round machine - the same dimensions, the same hole in the center. Only its notches are located differently - 8 on opposite sides and one on the other two.
In addition, to weave a kumihimo cord, you need threads. Both thin knitting yarn and leather cord are perfect for these purposes. But usually kumihimo baubles are woven from floss folded several times, because these threads are easy to get, they are inexpensive, and the color palette is endlessly varied.
How to weave kumihimo?
Now we come close to the main question: how to weave kumihimo? Let's look at the techniques for round and square looms, and conduct three simple master classes on weaving different types of laces.
Traditionally, kumihimo is woven from 16 threads. Since you and I are not yet such great experts, we will not deviate from traditions. The easiest way is to weave your first kumihimo decoration according to the pattern. And so that weaving a bracelet does not turn into torture, you can immediately color the template in the desired colors using felt-tip pens. Also place the letter C on the template sector indicated in the diagram - this is Start.
How much thread does it take to weave a kumihimo? You can calculate it using a bead pattern - three wrist circumferences. Plus on the ties. In total, 40-50 cm is enough. Let's gather our threads together, tie a knot, leaving a tail of about 10 cm for the tie. Having straightened the tail into the central hole of the machine, tuck the long ends of the threads into it in accordance with the color.
The threads are tucked. We can start. How to weave on a kumihimo loom? Not as difficult as it seems. Find the thread on the letter C. Take it and move it to the opposite part of the circle, securing it to the right of the colored sector. Now transfer the thread that is on the left in this group at the bottom to the free slot at the top. Turn the machine clockwise and repeat this operation each time. In one revolution of the circle, this operation will become familiar. You see, patterns are already becoming visible!
In one and a half to two hours it is quite possible to weave a kumihimo 16-18 cm long. But it is better to do this intermittently so as not to tire your eyes.
The ties can be made in three ways - you can braid the ends with a rope, a pigtail, or put them in a loop with a button.
Now let's see how to weave on a square kumihimo. As you remember, flat lace is woven on such a machine. Contrary to logic, weaving a flat lace is more difficult. Today we will look at how to make kumihimo in 2 colors. For decoration we will need two meter threads and 15 half-meter threads.
The beginning of weaving a flat kumihimo is no different from weaving a voluminous cord - we find a pattern and color our loom in accordance with it. Weaving usually starts from the upper left slot. As usual, we tie the threads in a knot, leaving a tail of about 10 cm, and thread the threads into the machine in accordance with the color scheme. The warp threads are inserted into the side slits; they do not participate in creating the pattern. Then, placing the knot in the center of the hole, pull the threads taut in the loom.
So, you see that we only have one slot left empty. It is into this that we will move the thread from the first slot. Now take the thread to the right of this slit, and fasten it into the vacated slit at the top. Proceed in this way to the end of the machine. Now take the warp threads and simply swap them, pulling them up a little. Now turn the machine over - the lower left slot is empty, just like at the very beginning of weaving. Again, take the thread from the upper left slot, move it down, and, each time choosing the thread adjacent to the right, go again to the end of the row.
Braid the cord to the desired length, then remove it from the loom and make ties in any of three ways.
You can also make a spiral cord with visible relief. It looks as if it was woven from 4 threads, but in fact there are more of them: 4 by 100 cm and 12 by 70 cm. This type of weaving is something between weaving on a circle and weaving on a square, although it is done on a round kumihimo.
The beginning is classic: color, tie, tuck. Please note that the threads here are of different lengths. The longest threads should be placed so that they are to the right and left of you. This middle line will be very important: here the kumihimo weaving technique does not involve rotating the machine!
We take the thread from the start slot and move it down in a mirror image. Not in the slot strictly opposite to it in diameter, but in a mirror image relative to the center line! Then we move the left thread from below to the top. We do the same with the rest of the threads, passing to the other edge of the circle. Now we take the top left thread of the middle line and move it to the top right. We move the lower right thread down to the left. And again we pass from the left to the right edge with short threads.
So, today we learned what kumihimo is and conducted three short master classes on kumihimo for beginners. We hope you found it interesting!
