For lovers of original jewelry, rose earrings made of polymer clay, made with your own hands, would be an excellent option. This material can be easily found in craft and creative supply stores, and working with it is as simple as modeling plasticine figures. That is why almost anyone can make such a decoration from polymer clay if they have the desire. After all, such exquisite and cute roses will always please the eye and lift your spirits.
Required materials and tools:
- polymer clay;
- oven;
- baking sheet;
- parchment paper or foil;
- glue;
- chains with crystal;
- base for earrings;
- barrette;
- wire cutters
Making flowers for earrings
So, to make rose earrings from polymer clay, first, roll out a tiny ball into a disk and press down well. Roll this disk into a tube and you will have the base for the flower. Make another ball, straighten it, thinning out the edges. Squeeze between your fingers and wrap around the center of the rose. Continue rolling out the balls and wrapping new petals around the bud. When you are finished, your rose will have a long base that needs to be cut off. Do this with a knife. Make the required number of roses.
Bake flowers
Place all the flowers on parchment paper and bake them in the oven according to the instructions for your polymer clay. Once you have made the roses, we offer several options for using them.
Rose earrings made of polymer clay
Option number 1 - earrings. First of all, measure the required length for the earrings from the crystal chain. We cut off 4 cm, and you can experiment with the length of future products. Bite off the excess from the chain and repeat for the second earring. Apply some strong glue to the base of the earring stud. Press the base of the clay rose against it. Let the workpiece dry. Glue the ends of the crystal chain to the base of the flower on the carnation. Repeat these steps to create a second earring. Set the finished decorations aside for some time to dry.
Hairpins
Option number 2 - hairpins. Place a bead of glue on top of the base of the hair clip. Press the polymer clay rose onto it well. Set aside to dry. Repeat this step for the desired number of hair clips. If desired, you can decorate the finished accessories with rhinestones or glue several flowers to the hairpin. For our roses we chose red, and you can choose any color of polymer clay you like and use it.
For sculpting I use three colors of DMO polymer clay.
- 810-026 - corporal,
- 810-033 - cherry,
- 810-029 - pistachio green.
To tint the polymer clay I will use dry pastels.
I used gold colored ball pins as the base of the buds as I plan to pair these buds with gold colored connectors.
From the tools we will need a stationery knife and dots (I buy the simplest ones from Fixprice), as well as a soft and fluffy brush.
So, let's start sculpting. I held a real dry rose bud in front of my eyes and it seemed to me that the petals of the buds would look better if I made a color transition. For an understated pink, I mixed cherry, nude, and some pistachio polymer clay together. I rolled out the layers and cut them into a trapezoid, folded them together as shown in the photo. Then I started making color transitions. The rule for the transition is simple - fold the layer in half, red to red, flesh to flesh, and roll it in a machine or with a rolling pin so that there is one color on one side and the other on the other. If you roll it incorrectly, the layer will become long and the transition will not work. The layer will still increase a little, but this is normal. If you are just starting to sculpt, you don’t have to do a color transition, just get by with tinting:
The next step is to make a kane (sausage) from this layer of clay - the simplest petal. To do this, I fold the layer of polymer clay narrower as for mixing and roll it in the direction of one color on top, another color on the bottom, I get a long layer with a color transition.
Then I fold this layer like an accordion and compress it to the desired size, my kane turned out to be about 1cm long:
Now you can form the petals. I cut the kane into slices approximately 2 mm thick. Then on the palm, as shown in the photo, I give it the shape of a petal. The design of the palm produces a beautiful pattern, similar to the mold of a real rose. I process the edge of the petal and the base in two stages. At the first stage, I use a small ball to thin the edge so that it even tears a little, then with a larger ball I form the base and smooth the edge.
I tint the resulting rose petals with dry pastel. I rub a piece of pastel on the paper and paint each petal along the edge with a soft brush:
I start assembling the rosebud. I attach a pear-shaped piece of polymer clay to the pin and attach three petals so that they slightly overlap each other. In the photo from left to right all stages of sculpting. If you want to make a rose, then simply add more petals, gradually increasing their angle of inclination so that the bud ends up looking like a cup on a saucer.
Bake the finished buds so as not to be afraid of ruining their shape. 4 petals are usually enough for a bud
All that remains is to mold the sepals. We attach a small piece of green clay to the base of the bud. We tear off small pieces from a piece of clay, roll them into sausages and flatten them. We attach it to the base and smooth it with dots. We string a larger ball onto a pin and also smooth it onto the petals with a dot, trying not to spoil the shape of the ball. The tips of the petals can also be tinted with pastels:
I used crystals in the setting to assemble the earrings. We have been looking for a suitable supplier for a long time. And now these wonderful crystals can be bought from us. They are so beautiful that, to tell the truth, this whole master class was born when I decided that I definitely needed jewelry with these crystals. If anyone hasn’t seen them, be sure to check them out on our website, I’m sure they will enchant you too. In addition to those used in the master class, I also saved other colors for myself, and the article number for these pink ones is 112-063.
I used brass earrings, they are very beautiful. Their article number is 011-117. Since the fastening loop of these earrings is one-piece, I additionally used two connecting rings KSZ2-06-10 (Russian gold color, 6 mm in diameter).
Delicate roses of a pleasant shade will perfectly refresh and complement a romantic image, and modeling from polymer clay will bring joy not only from the appearance of the thing itself, but also from the process of working on it.
We will need:
Let's get started:
1. Mix a piece of floral clay with a small amount of white paint, then add just a little red and yellow paint. Use the tip of a toothpick to add color so you don't overdo it. Mix the clay thoroughly. The color should be peach. Now place a small piece of peach clay on the tip of a toothpick and give it the shape of an oval bud with a pointed top. The height of the bud should be about 0.7 cm. Make several small petals from peach clay, coat their base with glue and glue to the bud.
2. Make a few more rows of petals, gradually increasing their size until you have formed a rose with a diameter of 2 cm. Remove the rose from the toothpick, being careful not to press on the petals. If necessary, use small scissors to trim off any excess clay from the bottom of the rose.
3. Using two toothpicks, make two small half-opened buds 1cm high. Now set the rose and buds aside. While the roses are drying, let's continue modeling from polymer clay and work on the leaves. To do this, mix unpainted clay with green paint. If your paint is too bright, you can add a little red paint to get a natural shade. Then mold a thin oval leaf 1-1.5 cm long with a small petiole. Use small scissors to cut out notches on the edges of the leaf. For this purpose I did not use scissors, but a strip of aluminum folded at an acute angle.
4. Attach the leaf to the mold with the texture of the leaf veins and press it down. The tip of the sheet should be tinted with red-brown pastel using an elastic brush. On some floral clays, pastels do not adhere very reliably, so the hardened product must be coated with a special varnish for such clays, or the petals should not be tinted at this stage with pastels, but tinted with oil or acrylic paint when the leaves are already dry.
5. Lubricate the lower part of a polymer clay rose leaf along the vertical vein with glue and attach a piece of thin wire to this place. Lightly press the wire onto the leaf, then pinch the leaf from the back so that the wire becomes invisible. Roll the petiole of the leaf between your fingers so that the wire is inside it.
6. Then trim off the excess wire. For earrings you need to make two antennae twisted with a spring. To do this, roll a flagellum with a diameter of 0.1 cm from green clay and wrap it around a toothpick. You should get a spring 2cm long. When the springs are dry, remove them from the toothpicks.
7. Using the method described above, you need to make 16 leaves 1-1.5 cm high and 2 springs.
8. Form the green clay into a flat circle 0.1cm thick and 1.5cm in diameter or slightly larger. Then take a short jewelry pin, bend the end with pliers and place it on the green circle so that the loop of the pin is on the edge of the circle. Press the bottom (curved) side of the loop into the circle.
9. Spread glue on the green circle and glue 8 leaves to it. You may need to trim their petioles a little first. Thinly roll out a strip of green clay 1cm wide and cut it into narrow triangles with a knife.
10. Take a half-opened polymer clay rosebud and coat its underside with glue. Attach 5 triangles to it with sharp edges facing up. Now remove the bud with triangles from the toothpick. Stick the bottom sides of the triangles together and roll them between your fingers until they take the shape of a stem.
All of them are sold on our KalinkaPolinka website:
- 810-026 - corporal,
- 810-033 - cherry,
- 810-029 - pistachio green.
For tinting polymer clay I will use.
I used gold colored buds as the base as I plan to pair these buds with gold colored connectors. In the store website, pins with a ball are available in all colors at a very reasonable price.
From the tools we will need a stationery knife and dots (I buy the simplest ones from Fixprice), as well as a soft and fluffy brush.
So, let's start sculpting. I held a real dry rose bud in front of my eyes and it seemed to me that the petals of the buds would look better if I made a color transition. For an understated pink, I mixed cherry, nude, and some pistachio polymer clay together. I rolled out the layers and cut them into a trapezoid, folded them together as shown in the photo. Then I started making color transitions. The rule for the transition is simple - fold the layer in half, red to red, flesh to flesh, and roll it in a machine or with a rolling pin so that there is one color on one side and the other on the other. If you roll it incorrectly, the layer will become long and the transition will not work. The layer will still increase a little, but this is normal:
The next step is to make a kane (sausage) from this layer of clay - the simplest petal. To do this, I fold the layer of polymer clay narrower as for mixing and roll it in the direction of one color on top, another color on the bottom, I get a long layer with a color transition.
Then I fold this layer like an accordion and compress it to the desired size, my kane turned out to be about 1cm long:
Now you can form the petals. I cut the kane into slices approximately 2 mm thick. Then on the palm, as shown in the photo, I give it the shape of a petal. The design of the palm produces a beautiful pattern, similar to the mold of a real rose. I process the edge of the petal and the base in two stages. At the first stage, I use a small ball to thin the edge so that it even tears a little, then with a larger ball I form the base and smooth the edge.
I tint the resulting rose petals with dry pastel. I rub a piece of pastel on the paper and paint each petal along the edge with a soft brush:
I start assembling the rosebud. I attach a pear-shaped piece of polymer clay to the pin and attach three petals so that they slightly overlap each other. In the photo from left to right all stages of sculpting. If you want to make a rose, then simply add more petals, gradually increasing their angle of inclination so that the bud ends up looking like a cup on a saucer.
Bake the finished buds so as not to be afraid of ruining their shape.
All that remains is to mold the sepals. We attach a small piece of green clay to the base of the bud. We tear off small pieces from a piece of clay, roll them into sausages and flatten them. We attach it to the base and smooth it with dots. We string a larger ball onto a pin and also smooth it onto the petals with a dot, trying not to spoil the shape of the ball. The tips of the petals can also be tinted with pastels:
I used crystals in the setting to assemble the earrings. We have been looking for a suitable supplier for a long time. And now these wonderful crystals can be bought from us. They are so beautiful that, to tell the truth, this whole master class was born when I decided that I definitely needed jewelry with these crystals. If anyone hasn’t seen them, be sure to check them out on our website, I’m sure they will enchant you too. In addition to those used in the master class, I also saved other colors for myself, and the article number for these pink ones is 112-063.
I used brass earrings, they are very beautiful. Their article number is 011-117. Since the fastening loop of these earrings is one-piece, I additionally used two connecting rings KSZ2-06-10 (Russian gold color, 6 mm in diameter).
Happy sculpting! If you have any questions, be sure to write in the comments)
The master class was conducted by Veronica Batchenko, Kyiv.
Many women love roses - luxurious and unique. Bright earrings with scarlet roses will perfectly complement your evening outfit, and you will become the queen of any ball!
Materials:
Polymer clay (Fimo, Cernit or their analogs) of a rich scarlet color;
Working surface - glass or plexiglass;
Plastic knife (or regular stationery knife);
Matte acrylic varnish for plastic;
Assorted red beads (faux pearls, clear plastic, crystals);
Accessories for assembling earrings: earrings, jewelry pins and rings, chain fragments;
Assembly Tools:
mini-drill with a 1-1.5 mm drill, wire cutters, round nose pliers.
Progress.
Before working, you must wash your hands well with soap, since dust and lint stick to the plastic, and as a result, the color takes on a dirty tint. In this case, it is better to work without gloves: fingerprints, which we try in every possible way to avoid when making plastic products, on the rose petals will be very similar to natural veins, and the flowers will turn out as if they were alive.
Carefully knead a small piece of scarlet plastic. Roll sausages of approximately the same diameter. Three sausages are enough for the set of earrings presented here.
Using a blade, cut the sausages into approximately equal pieces. And it’s not scary if these fragments don’t turn out identical, because in nature every flower is unique, inimitable.
Now start sculpting the rose. For the base you will need a larger piece. Form a ball by flattening it with your fingers and stretching it a little to make an oval cake (here the layer of plastic is needed very thin so that the petals look like real ones).
Make the base of the future rose. To do this, carefully roll the resulting workpiece.
Doesn't look much like the middle of your favorite flower? Correct the workpiece, giving it a “natural” look.
It's time to make the rest of the petals. Take a piece of sausage, roll it into a ball, flatten it and carefully stick it to the base of the rose. Adjust the petal by lightly pinching its edge.
As the petals attach, twist the rose a little with your fingers - then the excess material will go into the “leg”. Hold the rose by this, and when the work is finished, cut off the excess material.
Add petals in random order until the flower is finished and the desired size.
Using a blade, carefully cut the leg under the base. The plastic in your fingers is warm and soft, so act carefully but confidently.
Similarly, you need to make 6 roses: 2 large, 2 medium and 2 small.
Congratulations, your efforts have been crowned with an excellent result: all the roses are ready! The next step is to bake or boil these beautiful flowers to make them durable. (Refer to the instructions included with the type of plastic you are working with.)
In roses, drill a hole with a diameter of 1-1.5 mm. I recommend that you first manually mark the location of the holes with a drill and only then use the mini-drill.
Carefully coat the roses with polymer clay varnish and let them dry.
When the blanks are drilled and varnished, proceed to assembly. I used 10 jewelry pins, 2 studs, 4 jewelry rings, several chain links, 6 beads, a couple of earrings. The assembly diagram is simple - linear. The basic principle is the alternation of elements: bead, rosette, bead, rosette, etc.
Take a small rose and insert a jewelry pin into the drilled hole.
Cut off the excess end with wire cutters and twist it into a loop using pliers. Hang a bead on this loop.
Take a plastic crystal, insert a jewelry stud into it, cut off the excess with pliers, and bend the end into a loop with pliers.
Hang the crystal on one of the loops of the rose. This is the bottom part of the earring.
Next, take an artificial pearl and attach a pin to it (with one loop you attach it to the small rose, and the second to the medium one). Then, proceeding in the same way, attach a plastic round bead.
The last rose is large, with a large diameter. If you attach it like the previous elements, it will cover the beads. Therefore, I used a fragment of a small chain, only two links (it can be replaced with several jewelry rings, connecting them in series), and only after that I attached a large rose to the chain.
