There are a large number of different stoves that can serve both for heating and for heating the house and cooking. Some are quite voluminous and massive, others are compact, and for a particular room, the desired option is selected that will be most effective for a given area. In addition, any of the furnaces must be installed with the obligatory consideration of the requirements developed by specialists in accordance with SNiP 41-01-2003.
In the conditions of the modern information space, brick ovens for the home, drawings with orders can always be found on the Internet. However, it must be remembered that building this structure on your own is quite difficult, since each stove-maker has his own experience and professional secrets, which are acquired only with work experience.
Criteria for choosing a brick oven
If, nevertheless, it is decided to do such work on your own, then you need to decide on the model - with knowledge of the matter, paying attention not only to the appearance and design of the furnace, but also to its heating abilities in relation to the room that it will have to heat.
When choosing a furnace by size, it must be taken into account that its side walls give off more heat than the front and back. This factor must be taken into account when planning the installation of the stove in one place or another.
Furnaces are divided not only by functionality, but also by its form. They can be rectangular, T-shaped, with a ledge in the form of a stove bench or stove, and others.
Stoves can only be used for heating living rooms and can be installed, for example, between the living room and the bedroom, perform several functions and serve as a dividing wall between the living rooms and the kitchen.
For rooms with a small area, you should not choose too massive buildings. Although many of them are multifunctional, they will take up too much useful space that can be used for other needs.
Naturally, the location of the heated room in the house, as well as the degree of insulation of the entire building, also plays a big role.
Stove selection table depending on the heated area and the location of the rooms:
| Room area, m² | Furnace surface, m² | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Not a corner room, inside the house | Room with one outside corner | Room with two outside corners | Hallway | |
| 8 | 1.25 | 1.95 | 2.1 | 3.4 |
| 10 | 1.5 | 2.4 | 2.6 | 4.5 |
| 15 | 2.3 | 3.4 | 3.9 | 6 |
| 20 | 3.2 | 4.2 | 4.6 | - |
| 25 | 4.6 | 6.9 | 7.8 | - |
All these criteria must be predetermined, and based on them, a choice should be made in favor of one or the other model.
Types of brick ovens
As mentioned above, the design of furnaces can be different - both very difficult to build, and quite simple. The most famous of the models are "Dutch", "Swede", "Russian". Modifications named after their designers are widely popular. So, the furnaces of Bykov, Podgorodnikov, Kuznetsov and other masters are very common.
- There are heating stoves that do not have a hob and other elements, but consist only of walls in which flue ducts, furnaces, blowers and cleaning chambers pass.
- Heating and cooking stoves have in their design a stove for cooking, sometimes an oven, a hot water tank and a drying chamber.
- Another type of heating structure is a fireplace stove, which has two fireboxes in its design - a fireplace and a stove. This model can be used by heating only one of the fireboxes or both at the same time.
- There are also stoves that include the entire complex necessary for human life both in summer and in winter. Often they are equipped with a heated bed, which may well serve as the basis for the bed.
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Prices for finished heating stoves
heating furnaces
Choosing a place to install the oven
It is also important to provide for the correct installation location of the furnace. The best place is the crosshairs of the walls of the house. If it does not have a large area, then such a stove can heat all rooms at the same time. It is desirable that the structure is located near the entrance to the building, since the heat emanating from it will create a barrier to the cold air coming from the front door. In addition, if the firebox door opens into the hallway, it is easier to deliver fuel to it without carrying it through the whole house.
When choosing a place, you need to take into account several more factors that are important for the operation of the furnace:
- The building must be installed in such a way that there is free access to any of its walls - this must be taken into account for unhindered control of the integrity of the walls and for cleaning the chambers.
- When erecting a furnace, it is necessary to provide for a separate foundation for it, not connected to the base of the house.
- The chimney must pass between the attic floor beams and not stumble upon them when it is raised - this is provided for when building a house, and if the stove is being built in a finished building, then before laying the foundation for it.
- For fire safety purposes, a heat-resistant flooring made of metal sheet or ceramic tiles must be placed on the floor in front of the furnace door.
Basic design of a brick oven
To know how each of the elements of the furnace works, and what it is intended for, you need to consider the basic design of the heating structure:
- The fuel chamber is designed for laying and burning fuel. It is separated from the blower chamber by a grate and connected to internal channels, through which smoke and hot gases follow through the entire furnace, redirecting to the chimney pipe.
- The blower chamber provides an adjustable air supply to the furnace and is a collector of ash from burnt fuel, therefore it requires periodic cleaning.
- An oven, a hob and a tank for heating water - these elements are built into heating and cooking stoves.
- Cleaning chambers are necessary, as soot collects in them, which crumbles from the walls of the chimney channels passing inside the furnace. With the help of them, periodic cleaning of the furnace is carried out to maintain normal traction.
- The chimney channels passing inside the furnace may have a different configuration in different models. Hot gaseous products of combustion, passing through them, heat the walls of the furnace, which give off heat to the room.
- Channels direct smoke with combustion products into a chimney located at the very top of the furnace and then going outside the building.
One of the most important conditions for the efficient operation of the furnace is good traction, which is achieved by high-quality masonry in compliance with the ordering scheme and periodic cleaning of the structure during operation. In addition, it is necessary to observe the required height of the chimney and its correct location on the roof.
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Materials for building a furnace
An important issue for the long-term functioning of the furnace is the choice of high-quality materials for its masonry, so you should not save on them. To build a building you will need:
- Red refractory brick, the quantity of which is determined by the selected model. It must be remembered that this material is quite fragile, so its transportation and unloading must be carried out very carefully.
- Fireclay bricks are used for laying a combustion chamber in direct contact with fire. It will take from 40 to 200 pieces, but the exact amount can be found in the diagram of the selected model. This type of brick is able to withstand temperatures of 1450-1500 °, it keeps heat for a long time, gradually giving it to the walls of the furnace.
- You can’t do without raising the oven without mortar for laying bricks, which is made on the basis of clay. The stove-makers are advised to use the Borovichevsky composition of the solution - it is quite plastic during the laying process and refractory during operation.
- Cast iron elements are doors for the firebox, blower and cleaning chambers, valves and a grate. If the heating and cooking stove is raised, then one or more two-burner stove, oven and water heating tank provided by the design.
- Steel wire for fixing cast iron elements in masonry.
- Asbestos cord or sheet - for laying between brick and metal parts.
You might be interested in information on how to make a cast iron stove out of it
Now, having become acquainted with some of the nuances of building a furnace, we can consider several models that should be available for masonry even for beginners.
Heating stove by V. Bykov
This oven is for heating purposes only as it does not include a stovetop or oven. However, despite this, it is quite popular for houses with a small area, as it is compact - it takes up little space, but at the same time it is able to heat even three rooms.
The size of the building is 510 × 1400 mm, while its height without a chimney is 2150 mm. If we take the size in bricks, then it is 2 × 5½ bricks.
The stove is quite simple in laying, as it does not have complex internal configurations. In appearance, it generally resembles a thick wall, so the designer himself called it a "thick warm wall." Heat transfer from the entire structure is 2400 kcal/h, but at the same time, 920 kcal/h fall on the side walls, and only 280 kcal/h on its front and back parts. The cross section of the flue duct is 130 × 260 mm.
Due to its small width, the stove fits perfectly between two rooms, opening into a third room, for example, into a hallway, and is not only a separator for two rooms, but also a source of heat for them.
The whole design of this model is conditionally divided into two compartments - this is the upper gas outlet and the lower one is the furnace. In the lower part there are two channels - ascending and descending. They help heat the furnace part of the furnace and equalize the temperature throughout the building, preventing it from overheating.
The upper part of the furnace is made in the form of a cap, divided into five vertical, descending and ascending channels, which are overlapped by ⅔ of bricks laid horizontally in the masonry. They create a kind of sieve that delays the release of heat directly into the pipe. The walls of the channels not only direct the heated air in the right direction, but also significantly increase the internal surface area of the furnace. These factors increase the efficiency of the heating structure, which leads to greater heat transfer. It is also facilitated by a valve installed in the upper part of the building, which regulates the exit of warm air into the pipe.
For this oven model you will need the following materials:
- Red refractory brick - 407 pcs.
- White fireclay brick SHA-8 — 197 pcs.
- Furnace door 210×250 mm - 1 pc.
- Cleaning doors 140×140 mm - 2 pcs.
- Grate 250×252 mm -1 pc.
- Chimney damper 130×250 mm -1 pc.
- Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox, size 500 × 700 mm - 1 pc., ceramic tiles can be laid instead of the sheet.
Prices for ready-made furnaces for brick ovens
Firebox for brick ovens
Bykov furnace ordering
The laying of the furnace takes place on the foundation prepared for it, which should have a size larger than the base of the furnace by 100 ÷ 120 mm in each direction. The height of the foundation must be two rows of masonry below the finished floor. Before laying, it is laid with a layer of waterproofing - roofing material.
| ordering | Description of works |
|---|---|
 | According to this scheme, two zero rows are presented, which are below the level of the finished floor. Each row will require 22 red bricks. |
 | Masonry, located on the same level with the finishing floor, as well as a metal sheet mounted in front of the firebox. The floor surface around the stove is lined with heat-resistant ceramic tiles. |
 | 1 row - a blower chamber is formed. At the entrance to it, a hewn brick is installed, which facilitates the selection of combustion waste. For laying this row, 21 bricks are needed. |
 | 2nd row - when laying it, the blower door is installed and the chamber itself continues to form. For laying this row, 20 bricks are required. |
 | 3rd row - the blower chamber continues to form. The wire attached to the ears of the door is embedded in the seams of the masonry. For a row, you will need 19 whole bricks and 2 ⅓ bricks, which are stacked near the installed door. |
 | 4 row - the front part of the blower chamber is blocked with bricks together with the installed door. At the rear of the structure, the base of the swivel well begins to form. This row will take 12 whole, 6 in ¾ and 2 in ½ bricks. |
 | 5th row - the base of the fuel chamber is formed from fireclay bricks above the blower chamber. Hewn bricks are laid in the front and rear parts of the base, along which the combustion waste will slide into the ash-blowing chamber through the grate installed on the same row. A gap of 5 mm must be left between it and the bricks. The fuel chamber door is mounted on the same row. It will take 17 whole and two ⅓ bricks. |
 | 6 row - the walls of the fuel chamber begin to form, the chimney well continues to lay out. 11 pieces of fireclay bricks are used. |
 | 7 row - the chimney well is divided in two by two bricks. The bricks above the well must be hewn. As a result of masonry, the base of two vertical channels is formed - ascending and descending. In this row, 11 whole, 2 in ½ and 4 fireclay bricks cut obliquely across the entire width were used. |
 | 8 row is laid according to the scheme, repeating the previous one, the only difference is the direction of the brick. A row will take 15 bricks. |
 | 9th row - the door of the fuel chamber is blocked with two bricks. This row will require 16 fireclay bricks. The back of the oven is placed according to the scheme. |
 | 10 row - bricks are laid according to the scheme in compliance with their direction. This row needs 16 bricks. |
 | 11 row - a brick on the back wall of the furnace and at the entrance to the drop-down channel must be hewn from above, otherwise the work is carried out according to the scheme. A row will require 12 whole, 2 in ½ and 4 in ¾ fireclay bricks. |
 | 12 row - there is a combination of a falling chimney channel and a fuel chamber. For a row, you need 13 whole and 2 in ½ fireclay bricks. |
 | The 13th row is laid, according to the presented scheme, and it uses 10 whole, 2 in ½ and 4 in ¾ fireclay bricks. |
 | The 14th row also fits according to the scheme, it will take 10 whole and 6 in ¾ bricks. |
 | 15 row - using prepared bricks, ¾ in size, a narrowing of the fuel chamber, combined with a descending channel, is arranged. The total number of bricks used is 7 whole and 14 pieces in ¾. |
 | 16 row - the combined descending channel and the fuel chamber are completely blocked with bricks. This and the next row divide the structure into two parts - the upper gas-air and the lower fuel. For a row, 17 whole, 4 in ¾ and 2 in ½ bricks are used. |
 | 17th row is laid out of red brick. An opening of the ascending channel is left in it, along its edges hewn obliquely bricks are mounted. Used 14 whole, 6 in ¾ and 2 in ½ bricks. |
 | 18 row - a horizontal channel of the furnace is formed, it is the basis for mounting five channels that will go vertically. The cleaning chamber door is installed on the same row. For a row, you need 8 whole, 2 - ½, 2 - ¼ and 4 in ¾ bricks. |
 | 19 row - the formation of the first vertical channel, the upper part of the building, is underway. It will be a continuation of the ascending channel of the lower furnace part of the furnace. The bricks that form this channel must be cut obliquely from below. Used 11 whole and 4 in ¾ bricks. |
 | 20 row - the second vertical channel begins to form in the same way as the first. Half a brick is mounted between the first and second channels. This part in this row and in the subsequent ones has a dual purpose - it is the basis for the next row and forms windows in the masonry for heat exchange with the walls and maintaining normal traction. In a row, 7 whole, 3 in ½ and 8 in ¾ bricks are used. |
 | 21 row - the third, fourth and fifth channels are formed in it. Bricks placed at the base of the walls separating the channels are pressed together from below, as in previous cases. For a row, you need 11 whole, 5 in ½ and 4 in ¾ bricks. |
 | The 22nd row is placed according to the scheme in compliance with the formation of channels. For a row, you need 11 whole and 4 pieces of ½ and ¾ bricks, for a total of 17 pieces. |
 | The 23rd row is also laid according to the scheme and for it you need to prepare 12 whole, 4 in ½ and 4 in ¾ bricks. |
 | 24 row - on this row, the laying of the wall between the second and first vertical channels is completed. The upper brick in the wall is hemmed from the two upper sides obliquely. For a row, you need 9 whole, 3 in ½ and 8 in ¾ bricks. A total of 18 bricks need to be used, some of which split in two. |
 | 25th row - it completes the laying of the walls between the second and third vertical channels. The upper brick in the wall from above is pressed together on both sides. For masonry, you need 10 whole, 4 in ¾ and 5 in ½ bricks. |
 | 26th row - completion of the wall masonry between the third and fourth vertical channels. The upper brick of the wall is also pressed on both sides. You need to prepare 10 whole, 4 in ¾ and 4 in ½ bricks. |
 | 27th row - work is proceeding according to the scheme, and it requires 9 whole, 4 in ¾ and 4 in ½ bricks. |
 | 28 row - it uses bricks made in ¾ of a solid brick - they form a horizontal channel for flue gases, which is called a cap. For a row, 4 whole ones are used, 14 pieces - ¾, 4 hewn obliquely over the entire thickness. |
 | 29 row - in it, the channel formed in the previous row is completely blocked, with the exception of the opening left for the chimney pipe. For its masonry, 17 whole, 4 - ¾ and 2- ½ bricks will be required. |
 | 30 row is also laid out solid, according to the scheme, except for the opening for the chimney. It uses 6 whole and 20 in ¾ bricks. |
 | 31 rows are laid out according to the scheme and 17 whole, 4 in ¾ and 2 in ½ bricks are prepared for it. |
 | 32 row - the first row of the chimney begins to be laid out, for it you will need 5 whole bricks. |
Stove-fireplace "Swede" A. Ryazankin
Quite popular, due to its efficiency, the heating and cooking stove of the "Swede" type. Its design contributes to the rapid heating of the premises and allows not only to heat the house, but also to cook dinner.
The appearance of the "Swede" Ryazankin
Such a stove is usually installed between the kitchen and the living area of the house, positioning it so that the hob and oven are turned towards the kitchen. In some Swede designs, a fireplace is provided on the side intended for heating the living room or bedroom. It is this option that is worth considering, since it is perfect for both a spacious and a small building, and, as you know, many owners of private houses dream of a fireplace in one of their living rooms.
This stove model is heated with wood, has a size of 1020 × 890 mm around the perimeter and 2170 mm in height, excluding the pipe. At the same time, it is necessary to provide for the fact that the fireplace portal will protrude 130 mm beyond the building. The foundation must be larger than the size of the base of the furnace and be 1040 × 1020. The power of the Swede reaches 3000 kcal / h.
For the construction of this model of the furnace, the following materials will be required:
- Red brick, excluding pipe laying - 714 pcs.
- Blower door 140×140 mm - 1 pc.
- Door for combustion chamber 210×250 mm — 1 pc.
- Door for cleaning chambers 140×140 mm — 8 pcs.
- Oven 450×360×300 mm - 1 pc.
- Two-burner cast-iron stove 410 × 710 mm - 1 pc.
- Grate 200×300 mm - 1 pc.
- Chimney damper 130×250 mm - 3 pcs.
- Steel corner 50×50×5×1020 mm - 2 pcs.
- Steel strip 50×5×920 mm - 3 pcs.
- Steel strip 50×5×530 mm - 2 pcs.
- Steel strip 50×5×480 mm - 2 pcs.
- Fireplace grate, you can make it yourself from reinforcing bars.
- Metal sheet for flooring in front of the firebox 500 × 700 mm - 1 pc.
- Asbestos sheet or cord for laying between metal elements and masonry bricks.
Furnace masonry
The presented diagrams show in detail the location of all the cast-iron elements of the fireplace stove, and the description of the masonry will help to avoid mistakes at some rather complex stages of work.
Experienced master masons recommend laying the entire oven dry to begin with, that is, without mortar, adhering to the scheme and understanding the configuration of each of the rows. This process is especially important for beginners who are barely familiar with the work of the stove.
Another trick of experienced craftsmen is the preliminary adjustment and laying of each of the rows without mortar during work. Any row is first laid out, and, if necessary, individual bricks are cut or hemmed, and then they are laid on the mortar.
This approach will slow down the work somewhat, but will allow it to be done much better, without errors that could negatively affect the creation of normal traction.
When performing masonry, you need to keep at hand not only the diagram of each of the rows, but also a sectional drawing of the furnace. It will also help - it will allow you to present all the channels passing inside and the design of the furnaces.
So, the laying is done as follows:
Ordering - from 1 to 6 row
- The first, continuous row of the furnace, is laid on onlaid on ready ruberoid foundation. It is very important to lay out the row perfectly evenly and correctly, since the quality of the masonry of the entire structure will depend on it. Therefore, first it is worth marking the roofing material with a ruler, square and chalk, drawing on it the shape of the base of the furnace, observing the dimensions. Then, relying on the scheme and observing the brick laying configuration, the first row is assembled dry, and then - laying on the mortar.
- 2 row. Metal elements are laid in it, consisting of pieces of reinforcement, on which a fireplace grate will later be fixed by welding, or this decorative element is completely leveled. The rest of the laying is carried out according to the scheme.
- 3 row. At this stage, the doors of the first cleaning and blowing chamber are mounted, previously wrapped with asbestos rope or lined with asbestos pieces. To fix the doors in place, a wire is used, which is threaded into special eyelets of a cast-iron frame. Further, the wire is placed in the seams of the masonry, where it is fixed with mortar and pressed against the top row of bricks. Temporarily, until the final fixing, the doors are supported on both sides with bricks.
- 4 row. The work is proceeding according to the scheme, but the series is notable for the fact that the doors on both sides are fixed with masonry, which must be brought out perfectly evenly. The seams in this area can be two to three millimeters wider due to the wire embedded in them.
- It is recommended to lay out the 5th row using fireclay fire-resistant bricks, as well as all the walls of the combustion chamber. On the same row, a grate and an oven box are mounted, which are wrapped or lined with asbestos in order to avoid premature burnout.
- 6 row. On this row, a furnace door is installed, wrapped with an asbestos cord, and with pieces of wire fixed in it.
- 7 row. The masonry is carried out according to the scheme, a steel strip is mounted above the laid out walls of the fireplace, which will serve as a support for the next row of masonry. It is laid flat or in the form of a semi-arch, giving it the desired shape in advance.
- 8 and 9 rows are laid out according to the presented scheme.
- 10 row. The front wall of the furnace is being strengthened, since a cast-iron hob will be mounted in this part of the building. A steel corner is fixed to the wall with the help of two wire hooks, then pieces of asbestos sheet are laid on the place of installation of the plate, and the plate itself is installed. In the same row, the door of another cleaning chamber is fixed.
- 11 and 12 rows are laid out according to the scheme without installing metal elements. On the twelfth row there is an overlap of the cleaning chamber door.
Ordering - from 13 to 24 row
- From 13 to 15 rows are laid according to the developed scheme, strictly adhering to the brick laying configuration.
- 16 row. The device of the walls of the chamber is being completed, located above the hob, which is covered with metal strips. They will serve as the basis for laying bricks for the next row.
- 17 and 18 rows are stacked according to the scheme.
- 19 row. At this stage, two more cleaning chambers are mounted, which are fixed in the same way as the previous ones.
- 20, as well as 21 rows are placed according to the scheme.
- 22 row. Two more doors of the cleaning chambers are being installed.
- 23 row. The laying goes according to the scheme.
- 24 row. A chimney valve is being installed, the frame of which is installed on the solution.
- 25 row. Next to the first, on the adjacent chimney channel, a second chimney valve is mounted.
- 26 row. The cleaning chamber door is being installed.
- From 27 to 30 rows are laid out according to the scheme.
- 31 row. At this stage, the third, last chimney valve is installed.
- 32-33 rows. In this area of \u200b\u200bthe design, there is a transition to laying out a pipe that rises to the ceiling.
When laying a pipe through an attic floor, it is necessary to isolate combustible materials of construction from it. To do this, a metal box is arranged around the chimney with sides 100 ÷ 120 mm higher than the thickness of the ceiling. This "difference" remains in the attic.
If the walls of the furnace are not covered with decorative material, then when laying bricks, the still wet mortar in the seams is embroidered with a special tool, that is, it is given a neat convex or concave shape.
The oven - "Swede" can be supplemented with a warm stove bench. This interesting project is presented in the video.
Video: brick "Swede" with a stove bench
And at the end of the article - one more good advice. Before deciding on an independent construction of the furnace, without having sufficient experience in this work, it is recommended that you first practice in the usual laying of bricks on the mortar. Believe me, this process is not as simple as it seems at first glance.
Evgeny AfanasievChief Editor
Publication author 27.08.2015
At a time when a stationary solid fuel stove was the only existing means of heating a house, the profession of a stove-maker was very popular and respected. Today, for the arrangement of individual heating, you can use many different units operating on a wide variety of fuels, but brick ovens are still in demand.
Nowadays, finding a truly competent stove-maker is not an easy task. Yes, and you don’t need to do this, because you can lay out a full-fledged stove with your own hands.
Before proceeding with the self-laying of the furnace, familiarize yourself with the features of the existing varieties of such units. The ovens are:
- heating. Designed exclusively for heating. Such furnaces have an extremely simple design and are laid out in the shortest possible time and with the least effort compared to other types of structures;
- heating and cooking. The most popular and demanded option. At the same time they heat the house and allow cooking;
There are also improved varieties of heating and cooking stoves with a built-in stove or even a full-fledged oven.
Fireplace stoves belong to a separate category. This is a great option for a modern private home. Such designs perfectly cope with the tasks of space heating and have an attractive appearance. A properly laid out and finished fireplace stove will be a worthy addition to the interior of both a small country house and an expensive private villa.
Schemes of modern furnaces distinguish them not only by purpose, but also by the features of the form. Most often, units of rectangular and square shape are installed in private houses. But if you wish, you can lay out a round oven. Select the specific option taking into account the characteristics of the room and your own preferences.
The oven, of course, can be laid out with your own hands and numerous schemes will help you do this in the shortest possible time. However, when performing such work, remember that any furnace, regardless of its purpose, shape and other characteristics, must fully comply with current fire safety standards.
The choice of location and type of foundation for the stove
Before starting the laying of the furnace, pay due attention to finding a place to place it. For example, if the unit is placed in the middle of the room, it will be able to give off much more heat, warming up from all sides and evenly heating the air around.
If you place the stove against the wall (and this option is used most often), cold air will constantly “walk” near the floor. Therefore, in this regard, you need to make your own decision.
Pre-determine the installation location of the furnace door. This element must be installed so that in the future you can load fuel into the stove as conveniently and quickly as possible without spreading garbage from firewood or coal throughout the house. Usually the furnace door is located on the side of the kitchen or some little-visited room.
The finished brick stove will have a fairly impressive weight. In order for the device to stand as reliably and for a long time as possible, an individual concrete foundation must be prepared for it.
Furnace Design Features
Traditional brick ovens have a fairly simple design. However, the simplicity that seems at first glance makes it possible to achieve very high rates of productivity and efficiency.
The main elements of the body of a brick oven are the firebox and the chimney. Cooking ovens are additionally equipped with stoves and / or ovens, it is also possible to install a tank for heating water.
The firebox is the main part of the furnace unit. It is in the firebox that firewood or other fuel used for heating is loaded. The firebox can be of various sizes. When determining the appropriate dimensions, several important factors must be considered, such as:
- type of fuel used. If you will heat the stove with wood, make a firebox 50-100 cm high;
- required performance;
- required volume.
To equip the firebox, use refractory bricks. The wall thickness of the structure under consideration cannot be less than half a brick.
The chimney is also one of the main elements of any heating furnace. The chimney is designed to remove flue gases with various harmful inclusions formed during the operation of the furnace.
At the design stage of the chimney, try to think through everything so that its design has a minimum number of bends and turns. Ideally, the chimney should be completely vertical. Any kind of bends will lead to a deterioration in traction and a decrease in the efficiency of heating the room.
Among the important structural elements of a brick oven is the ash pan chamber. Ash will collect in this compartment. Also, air is supplied through the ash pan to the inside of the unit, to the fuel. The ash chamber is arranged under the grate of the grate and is equipped with its own door. Traditionally, the height of the ash pan is 3 bricks.
What mortar to use for masonry?
The quality of the masonry mortar directly affects the reliability and durability of the finished furnace. Masonry will be carried out using a sand-clay mortar.
There is nothing difficult in preparing the solution. Take clay, fill it with water and soak it. Sift the mixture through a sieve and then stir into "clay milk". Finally, add some water to get a sufficiently viscous and plastic solution.
Remember, the reliability and strength of the furnace directly depends on the correct preparation of the masonry mortar. Do everything right - the stove will effectively heat your home for many years. Break the technology or decide to save a lot on materials - the thermal unit is unlikely to be able to fully reveal its potential and stand for at least a long time.
The main stages and important features of laying the furnace
From the moment the foundation is poured to the start of construction, 3-4 weeks should pass. During this time, the base will gain the necessary strength and be able to withstand the weight of a brick oven. The work in question requires maximum responsibility and concentration on the part of the performer. Any mistakes can lead to irreparable consequences, so tune in to work in advance and allocate enough time to complete it.
The laying of the furnace is carried out in several stages.
First stage. Lay out the ash pan and the lower part of the first cap from the brick. Carry out masonry using the previously discussed sand-clay solution.
Second phase. Install the ash pan door into the masonry. Use galvanized wire to fix the door.
Third stage.
Fourth stage. Mount the firebox. Surround the inside of this compartment with refractory bricks. Bricks lay out "on edge". At this stage, you need to use a special masonry mortar. It is prepared in the same way as the standard one, but instead of simple clay, refractory clay is taken, i.e. fireclay. Secure the combustion chamber door with a steel plate and the wire you already know.
Fifth stage. Continue the standard laying until you reach the 12th row. Having reached this row, close the combustion chamber and evenly lay the tiles with burners. This plate must be made of cast iron. Check the evenness of the laying using the building level.
Sixth stage. Lay out the first cap. It is built in the left edge of the stove. At the same stage, a canal for the summer course is being equipped.
Seventh stage. Install the stove and lay out the walls of the cooking compartment. Keep the calculation of the lower cap mentioned earlier.
Eighth stage. Install a gate valve for the mentioned summer run channel. This valve is located in the inner corner of the brewing compartment.
Ninth stage. Lead the laying to the 20th row. Having reached this row, close the cooking compartment and the first hood. Be sure to leave in the solid masonry the required number of openings for the summer run and the lifting channel, as well as the vents of the cooking compartment. Place bricks on steel corners - this way you will ensure higher strength and reliability of the stove.
Tenth stage. Close the portal of the brewing compartment with hinged fireplace doors. It is better that the doors have heat-resistant glass inserts. This solution will allow you to monitor the process of fuel combustion and admire the flame.
Eleventh stage. Install cleaning doors for easy soot removal. For installation, choose a place to which it will be easiest for you to get to.
Twelfth stage. Lay out the walls of the cap almost to the top edge of the wall opening. At the top, block the stove with a couple of rows of bricks. Fill the gap between the top of the stove and the jumper with mineral wool. This will provide additional thermal insulation and slightly increase the heating efficiency.
Thirteenth stage. Lay a decorative band around the upper perimeter of the unit.
Fourteenth stage. Proceed to the device of the chimney pipe. It is better that the chimney was brick. This design will last much longer than the same metal or asbestos pipes.
In the end, you just have to lay out the chimney to the end and, if desired, finish the exterior of the stove. The easiest option is plastering. Otherwise, be guided by your own preferences and available budget.
Thus, laying the stove, although not a simple event, but it is quite possible to do it yourself. It is enough to simply understand the technology and follow the instructions in everything. Remember, the materials for work should be of the highest quality. And the schemes of furnaces tested over the years will allow you to independently build a unit that will heat your house for many years without any problems and complaints.
Successful work!
Video - Do-it-yourself laying stoves
Brick has been around for more than a century. From it they built houses in different countries and even parts of the world, having come up with many different methods and types of brickwork. And although there are a lot of secrets and features in the technology itself, you can understand everything. First you need to familiarize yourself with the basic provisions and terminology, without which it will be impossible to understand what is at stake. Then, choose the masonry technique and the type of dressing, and then begin the practical development of skills. Do-it-yourself brickwork can be done at least as well as that of professionals. The only thing in which an amateur will definitely concede is in speed. All other parameters, subject to technology, will certainly not be worse.
Basic terms
Let's start with general concepts. Everyone knows exactly what a brick looks like, that it is ceramic, and there is silicate - too. But not many are aware of how the edges of this material are correctly called. And in the description of masonry technology, they are very common.
The largest edge is called pastel", middle - lateral - " spoons", and the smallest -" poke«.
The dimensions of a brick, in principle, are standardized (250 * 125 * 66 mm - single and 250 * 125 * 88 mm - one and a half), but the technology for its production is such that they can differ significantly from different manufacturers: by 2-3 mm in each of faces, and this is a rather significant difference, given the number of pieces in one row. Therefore, before ordering a batch, it is advisable to measure samples from several firings in order to determine how accurately the technology is maintained.
It is also important to pay attention to the geometry: the edges must be located strictly at 90 °. Otherwise, bursting loads will occur, and the wall may crumble.
Types of masonry
Brick walls can play a different role. In some cases, this is only decoration, in some - partitions, and sometimes - load-bearing walls. Based on the purpose, as well as the required thermal conductivity of the walls, the type of brickwork is selected:
- In half a brick. Most often, this is how cladding is done. The thickness of such a wall is 125 mm. To save money, you can put the material on a spoon, then you get a wall a quarter of a brick. When arranging such (in 1/2 or 1/4) in each 4-5 row, a reinforcing mesh is laid. It is necessary to increase the rigidity of the wall and create additional bonds that increase the strength of the masonry.
- Into a brick It can already be partitions or two load-bearing walls of small buildings. Wall thickness - 250 mm.
- One and a half, two and two and a half bricks are already load-bearing walls.
Dressing and row names
Although a brick wall is made up of many small elements, it should work as a monolith. To provide increased strength, the seams, which are the weak point in this system, are made with an offset. Experts call this technique "dressing". It seems to connect different elements into a single whole, allowing you to redistribute the load on large surfaces.
To ensure the necessary displacement of the seams, the bricks are arranged in different ways:
- if they are turned to the front side by the smallest part - a poke, such a row is called tychkovy;
- if turned with a long side - a spoon - a row is called spoon.
Moreover, the first in the masonry - on the foundation - lies the bonder, they also finish the masonry. And for him it is necessary to use solid bricks.
Single row dressing
Alternate alternation of such rows gives a very good result. This type of ligation is called single-row or chain ligation. It is practiced on walls that are not planned to be finished: it looks neat. According to such a system, both external and load-bearing walls can be folded.
Wall masonry schemes
Examples of a single-row brick wall in 1.5 and 2 bricks are shown in the photo below.
Single-row dressing in the wall of 1.5 and 2 kripich
In the case of laying a wall in two bricks, two more terms appear. Two outer spoon rows are called versts - outer verst directed to the street inner verst- into the room. They use even, good material, especially carefully choosing those that are directed outward. The space between them is called backlog. Since this element is closed on all sides, you can use a lower grade material, for example, second-hand.
Please note that with this masonry, sawn bricks are also required: halves and three-quarters. Three-quarters in the diagram are crossed out crosswise, halves - with one diagonal stripe. How to make the adjunction of partitions to walls made using this technique is shown in the photo below.
Corner schemes
The laying of the corner in this case is very important. According to the method, the corners are first driven out, a cord is pulled between them, and then the wall is laid according to the scheme. But the corners are put first, on how correctly and evenly they are driven out, it depends on how even the whole building will be. The scheme of laying a corner in 1 brick with a single-row dressing is located below. Masonry begins with the installation of two 3/4 pieces, then the whole ones go.
See the video for the sequence of actions. Very detailed explanation with step by step demonstration of the procedure.
The same system, but in a wall of 1.5 bricks. In addition to whole pieces, 3/4 pieces and quarters are required. Spoon row alternately on the inside, then on the outside verst.
How this scheme is put into practice, see the video.
When laying a corner of 2 bricks in the first row, all the same two three-quarter pieces are required, and another 6 quarters or, as they say, checks. In the second one, one for 3/4 and two checks are already required.
Multi-row dressing
With multi-row dressing, several spoon rows - 6 (for a single brick) or 5 (for a one-and-a-half) - are interspersed with one bonder. The first and last are also placed with pokes. This method is also suitable for laying exterior and interior walls. Only they are usually planned for insulation or decoration.
Wall masonry schemes
So that with such a system, free-standing columns do not turn out, the spoon rows inside are also tied up. To ensure the displacement of the seams, crushed bricks are used.
Do-it-yourself brickwork: multi-row dressing scheme in 2 and 2.5 bricks
The adjunction of walls with this method also occurs with a dressing. This ensures increased strength of the abutment of the walls. Schemes - in the photo below.
Corner masonry patterns
And again about how to lay corners, but with multi-row dressing. If the wall is one brick, even and odd rows (except the first) are the same.
You will see all this in the video.
If the wall is 1.5 bricks, in the first and second rows with bonders, but located either in the outer or in the inner verst. The third and fourth rows are exclusively placed on a spoon.
The fifth row is laid similarly to the third, the sixth - to the fourth. The system then repeats. At times, not a multi-row (with 5 spoon poisons), but a three-row system is required. Then from the fifth row, the clack is repeated.
Mortar for masonry
The brick is placed on a cement-sand mortar. Cement is used not lower than M400, sand is clean, ravine. The proportions for the specified brand are 1 to 4 (for m500 - 1: 5). The batch is done manually or with a concrete mixer, but the order does not change.
First, sand is sifted, a binder is added to it, everything is mixed in a dry state until a uniform color is achieved. Then water is added. Its amount is 0.4-0.6 parts, but they look at the plasticity of the solution. It is more convenient to work with a plastic mortar than with a rigid one, but when laying a hollow brick, in this case the consumption of the mortar greatly increases: it fills the voids. In this case, it is more practical to make a hard solution.
To improve plasticity and more convenient work, lime, clay or liquid detergent are added to the composition (you can use hand soap, there are in large flasks). The number of additives is quite small - no more than 0.1 parts, but the characteristics of the solution improve significantly: it is easier to stack, it does not delaminate for longer.
Immediately it is worth warning: do not knead large volumes at once. The batch must be used within two hours. And in the last half hour, it can be difficult to work with him: the separation of water may begin, or it may begin to seize. It depends on the weather conditions and the quality of the cement, on the thoroughness of the kneading. If do-it-yourself bricklaying is your first experience in this area, it will turn out slowly. Therefore, it is better to make portions of the solution small.
Approximate solution consumption
Often for beginners planning to lay bricks on their own, the question arises: at what temperature can you work. Without special additives, it is possible to work at positive temperatures. In the best case - not lower than + 7 ° C. This is the threshold at which the cement normally sets. At lower temperatures, the hardening process practically stops, as a result, the mortar may crumble, and the strength of the wall will be low. To lower the bar, there are special antifreeze additives, but the cost of such a solution is already high: the price of these additives is considerable.
Before use, the solution is stirred, as heavy particles can sink down, and water can rise to the top. The mixed solution is put into buckets and transferred to the masonry site, where it is distributed. Immediately put a strip of mortar - a bed - for one row. Under the tychkovy row, the width of the bed is 200-220 mm, for the spoon row - 80-100 mm. If the seam is completely filled, about 10-15 mm recede from the edge, the mortar height is 20-25 mm, which during laying provides a seam of 10-12 mm. Before installing the brick, the mortar is leveled with a trowel.
There are three techniques for doing brickwork. On a hard low-plastic solution, the “press” technique is used. In this case, the seams are completely filled. If the solution is plastic, use the "butt" technique.
Brickwork technique "butt"
As already mentioned, this method of laying bricks is used with plastic mortar. It should be mobile, easy to apply and move. This is achieved by adding additives. You can spread the solution immediately on the entire surface of the wall: additives allow you to extend the time before setting begins.
The bed is laid with a thickness of about 20 mm, an indent of about 15-20 mm remains from the edge. Such an indentation avoids squeezing the solution onto the front surface, but at the same time, the edges of the seams often remain unfilled. This significantly reduces the strength of the wall, therefore, in regions with seismic activity, the laying of verst rows (outer and inner) by this method is prohibited.
When laying a spoon row, they take a brick, holding it with a slight slope. Bringing to the already laid, at a distance of 8-10 cm, they begin to rake up the solution with an edge (poke). When docking, it turns out that the seam is already partially filled. The brick is pressed down a little (sagging), pressing it to the bed. The excess is removed with a trowel and sent either to a bucket or to a wall.
Brick laying technique "butt"
With this technique, it often turns out that the vertical seams are only partially filled. Therefore, this method is also called "wasteshovka". They are filled when laying the bed for the next row. If the technique is not yet very well developed, it is better to fill the seams before laying the next row: voids reduce strength and thermal insulation characteristics.
When laying the bonder row, everything is exactly the same, only the solution is raked with a spoon edge. The backing is laid, like the tying rows, and then pressed with the palm of your hand. It is necessary to ensure that all the stones are on the same level. This is done using the building level, and the verticality of the wall is checked with a plumb line every 3-4 rows.
Technique "squeeze"
When working with hollow bricks, as a rule, hard mortars are used. In this case, a brick is used with the “press” technique. In this case, you also have to work with a trowel.
The bed is laid at a distance of 10 mm from the edge, the thickness is still about 20 mm. Since such a composition does not stretch well, it is raked to the edge of the laid brick with the edge of the tool. They take a brick with their left hand and press it against the trowel, while pulling it up. At the same time, they continue to press with a brick, achieving the required thickness of the seam (10-12 mm).
Technique "end-to-end"
Excess solution is picked up with a trowel. Having laid several fragments, they take the level, checking the horizontality of the row, by tapping the handle of the trowel, straightening the position. The solution squeezed out is selected. It turns out dense masonry, but the process takes longer: more movements are required.
Butt with undercut
The average performance method - butt with cutting seams. With this method, the bed is laid out close to the edge (10 mm), as when laying, pressing it, and the laying technique is close-fitting: they raked the mortar with a brick, put it down, pressed it down, and removed the excess. If the wall is subsequently not planned to be finished with anything, after several rows it is necessary to take the jointing - a special tool and give the seams the required shape (convex, concave, flat).
As you can see, this is a kind of symbiosis. To make it more convenient to work, the solution is also made with "intermediate" plasticity. If it is too liquid, it will flow down the wall, leaving streaks, so it needs to be kneaded a little tighter than when laying back to back.
DIY brickwork: tools, order and features
Now, how to lay a brick with your own hands, you have an idea, you need to talk about the procedure as well as some technical nuances.
Let's start with the tool. You will need:
- mason's trowel - apply and level the mortar on the bricks;
- concrete mixer or container for mixing mortar;
- mortar shovel - for kneading and periodic mixing;
- two or three buckets for the solution;
- plumb - check the verticality of walls and corners,
- building level - to check the horizontal laying of the row;
- mooring cord - for beating rows;
- jointing (for forming seams);
- hammer-pick for beating undersized bricks (halves, 3/4 and checks - 1/4);
- the rule is a metal or wooden flat bar to check the plane of the wall.
Next, we talk about the features of the technology. First: it is advisable to soak the brick before use. This is especially true in hot dry weather. Then it will “pull” less moisture from the solution. If there is not enough moisture, the cement will not be able to gain the required strength, which will affect the strength of the building.
Second: the corners are driven out first. First two first. They are connected with 2-3 rows of bricks according to the chosen masonry pattern. Then the third corner is expelled. The second and third are also connected by several full rows. After the fourth corner is placed and the perimeter closes. This is how walls should be erected, bypassing them around the perimeter, and the walls will not be kicked out in turn. This is one of the most common mistakes.
Third, there are two row control technologies. The first is that nails are inserted into the seams of the corners, to which fishing line laces are tied. It must be stretched so that it marks the upper edge of the brick, and also limits the outer (and, if necessary, inner) surface of the wall.
The second way is to use wooden or metal orders. This is a flat bar or corner, on which marks are made every 77 mm - risks on wood or cuts on metal. They mark the required row thickness: brick height + seam. They are installed using flat mounting brackets that are inserted into the seam. If necessary, they are then simply removed and rearranged higher.
There is another way - a bricklayer's corner. It has a slot on one side into which the mooring is inserted. "Sits down" on the corner on the solution.
The disadvantage of this method is the same as just a nail in the seam: the height of the row must be controlled "manually" when deriving corners. With a lack of experience (and where to get it if brickwork is being done for the first time with your own hands), this is difficult. Having (having done it yourself) ordering is easier.
Fourth: preparation of incomplete bricks. As you saw, when laying, they use halves, three-quarter bricks and checks - 1/4 of the part. So that the work does not slow down, before starting the masonry, it is required to prepare them. This is done with a pickaxe. When preparing, high accuracy in size is required, otherwise the dressing will fail. To make it easier to control the length, marks of the appropriate length are made on the handle. Having attached the pen to the brick, marks are made on it on both sides of the spoon. Then, having applied the pick blade to the mark, they beat on the reverse side with a hammer, making notches. Having made notches on both spoons, the picks break the brick with a strong blow.
Since ancient times, it so happened that the stove in the house served not only for heating. She could feed, and provide hygiene, and put to bed. The stove is the warmest and most privileged place in the house, not without reason in all fairy tales old people and children sat on the stove - those who most of all needed comfort and warmth. Today, the functions of a traditional heater, Swedish or Dutch stove are reduced mainly to a heating and decorative function, which does not prevent them from being used for preparing fragrant and healthy dishes from the arsenal of many world cuisines. The article will focus on brick ovens for the home.
Folding the oven is a whole science that has been known for more than one year of study. If there is no qualified stove-maker among your friends, and you really want to have a hearth in the house, then you will have to take on the implementation of a bold idea yourself. Here's what you need to know before you get started.
We decide on the design of a brick oven
Depending on what hopes real estate owners have with their home, it is worth considering the options that satisfy all desires. Do not forget about the dimensions of various furnaces and their weight. It is necessary to calculate not only your own forces and means, but also the strength of the foundation.
Russian stove
- Suitable for connoisseurs of tradition. This design performs the maximum number of functions, so it will take up a lot of space in the house. Traditionally, it is placed in the corner closer to the door, but in modern interiors it can also be placed in the center of the room.
- The lounger is provided for rest; Depending on the dimensions of the stove, it can have impressive dimensions. The crucible (or otherwise the firebox) is located directly below it. A continuous air supply for better fuel combustion is provided by a blower. The hearth and the stump are the compartments preceding the mouth of the furnace. Cooked food left in this area is guaranteed to stay warm for a very long time. The undercoat and the underplate were used to store kitchen utensils, tongs, pokers. Pechurki are recesses of small diameter located along the side wall of the stove. They served to dry small things, for example, mittens covered with snow dried out very quickly in them.
- Those who wish to lay down a Russian stove in the house will have to provide for it a place of at least two meters in height, one and a half meters in width and two and a half in length. A design with such dimensions will easily provide uniform heating of rooms of 30-40 m². But such a furnace also requires a lot of fuel. Those owners who cannot boast of significant volumes of the room or are not fans of the traditional color should pay attention to another version of the stove.
Brick oven photo
Swede
- A model that is more compact than a Russian stove, designed for space heating and cooking, is Swedish.
- She has the same height requirements - two meters. But the dimensions in length and width are reduced to one meter. The firebox provides enough heat to cook food on two burners of a cast iron stove at the same time.
- There is also an oven, which the housewives will appreciate. The Swede has many modifications, they are named after the developers (a stove designed by Potapov, Buslaev, Kuznetsov). Each one is slightly different in size, appearance, heat dissipation, so choosing the right option is not difficult.
Brick oven video
Dutch
- It will serve only for heating the house. It, contrary to its name, has Russian roots, as it is an invention of domestic stove-makers. Its main advantages are high heat transfer with compact dimensions. If there are no severe frosts outside the window, then the Dutch woman is able to keep warm for a day. Design features include a winding chimney and a low (compared to a Russian stove) located firebox. Thanks to this, the Dutchwoman warms up evenly from the bottom up.
- Its walls are thin - one, less often two bricks, the base in the form of a circle or rectangle fits on an area of 1 m². To heat a medium-sized room in a country house, this is more than enough. And in terms of weight, it is noticeably lighter than its competitors, and in terms of fuel consumption it is the most economical. The design of the firebox is not complicated by the abundance of details, but this only plays into the hands of the issue of increasing thermal conductivity. The silhouette of the Dutch stove is very attractive; to improve its appearance, it is often finished with tiles.
Preparatory stage before making a brick oven
At the preparation stage, you need to take care of finding a brick wall project that is suitable in all respects, consider its location, and take into account all fire safety requirements. You will need to pick up tools, purchase the right material and invite assistants.
The draft scheme can be ordered from specialized agencies or trusted resources on the Web. For those who wish, detailed courses are even filmed on video.
Of the tools you will need:
- a mesh (sieve) for sifting sand, with a mesh size not exceeding 2 mm;
- shovel;
- grinder (you have to cut a brick);
- a pickaxe hammer will help chop a solid brick into small pieces and hew them to the desired shape and size;
- stitching for seams. This is a special tool that allows you to give the seams between the bricks a neat and aesthetic look. If the stove is planned to be subsequently plastered or covered with decorative tiles, then this device will not have to be used. And when the master wants to leave the brickwork in its original form, the jointing will ensure the same density and width of the seams;
- trowel (trowel) for applying the solution;
- nozzle-mixer on the perforator. The solution will be needed in large volumes, and such a mass can be evenly mixed only using a power tool;
- tape measure is better to take with a margin of length. Five meters will be more than enough;
- a plumb line will help control the verticality of the masonry in the corners;
- a rule is needed to check the evenness of the masonry. A flat wooden lath more than a meter long is also suitable;
- the building level checks whether the masonry has “fallen” relative to the horizontal;
- the work will be “dirty”, so cleaning equipment: buckets, rags, rags and mops should be kept ready. It is better to clean the solution before it dries.
The list of materials will not differ in variety (depending on the chosen furnace configuration). Significant changes will only be in the number of bricks and additional accessories: a cast-iron stove, the number of doors. Brick, sand and clay are the main items of expenditure.
- Sand must fall under the following characteristics: clean, fine, uniform. This result can be achieved by sifting.
- Clay is skinny, normal and oily. The proportions of the preparation of the working solution depend on its variety. Many experts advise choosing the "golden mean", that is, clay of a normal degree of fat content.
Brick is produced in four main types.
- Ceramic. This is a classic among materials for housing construction. Lay the foundation, build a load-bearing wall, build a country house - all this can be done from red brick. True, now it is produced not only in red and orange, but in almost any shade.
- silicate brick has a different composition and color than ceramic. It is less moisture resistant, but dampens sounds well. But these characteristics are completely irrelevant for the construction of foundations, pipes and furnaces.
- Refractory brick type used in industries where constant heating to high temperatures is the norm. Metallurgists and glassblowers, for example, work with furnaces built from this material. Its high thermal conductivity and ability to withstand extremely high temperatures make refractory (fireclay) bricks the best for building a furnace. It is divided into four types:
- carbon steel is rarely found in free sale, it is intended for the use and construction of highly specialized production facilities;
- lime-magnesia brick is used in metal smelting enterprises;
- the quartz look, for all its fire resistance, is very unstable to the effects of alkalis or iron oxide. But for walls and vaults of furnaces it can be used;
- alumina fireclay brick is the most common, but it will not withstand heating over 1300 ° C.
Refractory bricks are more expensive than conventional ones. Russian manufacturers offer this building material at prices lower than those of foreign competitors.
Facing brick, as the name implies, is used only for decoration. To improve the appearance of the furnace, it is used quite often. The variety of shades makes it possible to fit the stove into any interior.
Foundation for the installation of a brick oven
- The furnace foundation is formed (ideally) at the stage of laying the foundation for the house. They must be independent of each other. This requirement is explained by the difference in the level of natural shrinkage. It will arise in any case, and the loads on both bases and temperature effects will be different.
- The base should exceed the dimensions of the future structure by about 15 cm in each direction. Waterproofing is a mandatory requirement for the base of the furnace.
How to lay a Russian brick oven
- What else needs to be considered before starting work? A classic Russian stove will require about 1,700 bricks, a view with a half-door that will regulate access to it, a valve (hole dimensions 26 × 24 cm), sand and clay in sufficient quantities. You will need to make about 80 buckets of mortar.
- As for the layer of the applied mixture, in this case the rule is more - it means better, it does not work. A masonry seam of moderate thickness will help the bricks to grasp faster and stronger.
- According to the classical canons of laying out the furnace, the vault of the furnace should go at an angle relative to the mouth. A protrusion in the form of a nut cuts off sparks from the crucible on the pipes and traps soot.
- Orders have been developed to help the master. Thanks to these cuts, you can clearly imagine how the laying of a particular row should be done. The top view allows you to understand when you need to use a whole brick, and where you need to beat off a half. The orders also indicate the installation locations of cast iron and other parts of the stove.
Drawing of a brick oven
- The base of the furnace must be covered with a layer of waterproofing material. Roofing felt or roofing material is quite suitable. The first row will be laid out directly on it. Burnt (overheated) bricks at this stage of masonry will be more preferable, as they are not afraid of moisture.
- In order for the dressing of the seams in the initial and subsequent rows to be of high quality, in the corners starting row lay three bricks ¾ in size. That is, a triangle is formed from these incomplete bricks: one in the center and one on the sides. They need to be made on a bevel to ensure maximum fit.
- Second row serves as the initial for laying out the guard.
- Since masonry involves the installation of bricks apart, in order to avoid the coincidence of the seams, third row will require the presence of four bricks in the corners with dimensions of ¾.
- When laying fourth row you need to take whole bricks. A pair of bricks that are stacked opposite each other, forming the entrance to the under-furnace, should have beveled corners. Thus, support for the arch will be obtained. In order for the stove to turn out to be even, a wooden formwork is built in its opening.
- When the arch is completed, you can return to laying fifth row. Three ¾ bricks are placed in the corners. The peculiarity of laying bricks in this row is that 20 of them (those that form the side walls) must be beaten off with a hammer with a pick so that they form a support for the vaults of the furnace.
- Sixth row provides for laying the side walls in one brick, and the back and front in two. It is important that the formwork is designed in such a way that, after completion of work, it can be easily removed through the entrance to the underfurnace. If you can’t give the bricks the desired shape, you should use the usual ones, and fill the voids with mortar and pieces of broken bricks. But ideal strength is ensured when laying a whole brick with neatly made bevels.
- Seventh row in terms of execution technique it resembles the first one, for the eighth solid brick is used. The eighth row involves arranging a platform for a cold stove.
- Ninth row- as the first, connected with the walls of the stove. Dry sand is placed between the walls.
- Eleventh row must completely cover the sandy backfill and the stove itself.
- Thirteenth row involves the start of work on laying the walls of the hearth and furnace. A strip of metal passes between them, which in its shape exactly repeats the furnace mouth. You can fix it in the masonry as follows: the strip should be with holes through which steel wire is passed.
- All other rows are performed in order to build up the walls of the firebox and hearth up to up to the seventeenth row. It requires that pre-chip and hewn bricks in the amount of eight pieces become a support for the vault of the furnace. The crucible-furnace itself is laid out similarly to a guardianship.
- The completed arch of the crucible is an occasion to start laying eighteenth row. A pair of heels - supports is fixed on the side of the hearth window. The arch, of which they are the beginning, will be small. When laying out the next rows, do not forget that the free space must be filled with a mixture of well-dried sand, brick, gravel and broken glass.
- twenty first row serves as a cover for the backfill and the crucible, and twenty second forms an additional layer.
- twenty third row should strengthen the shield walls and the retube. In the last element, a stuffing box is fastened, it is needed to connect a samovar pipe to it, if it is planned to heat it indoors. When the subsequent rows are laid, another hole for the view is formed in the overtube. And the next two rows fix the half-door of the view.
- Laying technology thirty-first row requires that a gutter be formed next to one of the walls (an additional row of three bricks). The next row can completely block the overtube. The only caveat is that on the right side it is supposed to leave a hole in it, blocked by a valve.
- From the thirty-fourth row you need to build up the walls of the chimney. Almost at the very ceiling, cutting is carried out in order to let the bricks in a little. This achieves two effects: decorative and practical. The last value is that the groove increases heat transfer and serves as a barrier separating the ceiling structures from the pipe itself.
- After the masonry dries, they proceed to the final finishing of the brick oven, make a trial heating (not at full strength) and enjoy the work done.
Do-it-yourself Dutch brick oven
The Dutch oven is much simpler than the Russian one, but it has its own nuances. The classic version looks like this:
- the design has a rectangular shape (even if it is different, the configuration of the firebox will not change and remains rectangular);
- there is no grate;
- structural elements:
- a firebox, which is located at the base in the lower half of the furnace;
- a chimney consisting of an exhaust pipe with a six-channel passage of gases through the system: three lowering and three lifting channels;
- cleaning door;
- blew.
You will need to purchase:
- refractory bricks - 200 pcs;
- well bending wire;
- a piece of roofing material for waterproofing;
- crushed stone, clay, sand and cement;
- masonry glue;
- firebox door, blower, valve;
- a standard set of level, tape measure, trowel, plumb line.
Scheme of a Dutch brick oven
Stages of work
When the foundation for the stove dries out, it is covered with roofing material, and that, in turn, is covered with a layer of clay mortar. Preparation: clay is soaked in water for at least two days, after which it is taken in a volume of 8 liters, 0.9 kg of glue for laying stoves, two buckets of sand are added. The resulting consistency should resemble thick sour cream. Let the solution dry.
- First row spread over a layer of sand moistened with water. A sand cushion is poured over the entire surface of the foundation. Without forgetting the rules of dressing, two continuous rows are laid between the bricks.
- In the third row begin to form an ash chamber, the door is installed later.
- Fourth row perform in order to build up an array of the furnace, the door is immediately installed. To fix it in the masonry, a metal wire is used. If the first three rows of bricks were laid out flat, then in the fourth row they are placed on edge until the firebox door is closed.
- The ash pan is installed in the fifth row, and sixth row- simple increase in the height of the walls. When the lining of the ash pan door is finished, it is covered with the seventh row, and the bricks are again laid flat. Eighth row- Height increase.
- Some homeowners equip a hob in a Dutch stove. If it is provided for by the project, then ninth and tenth row are shifting back. At the top of the ninth row, an asbestos cord is laid around the perimeter, on which a cooking surface is installed. The tenth row involves the beginning of laying the foundation of the chimney. To facilitate the design, a metal chimney is sometimes mounted.
- AT eleventh row a valve is being installed (using an asbestos cord), and the masonry is made in a quarter of a brick.
- AT fourteenth row the firebox is covered from above, a hole is formed along the back wall for the exit of excess smoke. Similar work is done in the next row.
- AT two rows, sixteenth and seventeenth form a cleaning door. You can simply leave a brick in its place without bonding it with mortar.
- Eighteenth row- this is the basis of the chimney. When all the bricks in this row have taken their places, they install the finished pipe or continue to form it through masonry.
- Experts advise soaking the brick in water for some time (until air bubbles stop actively entering the surface). It is believed that a wet brick will not absorb water from the mortar, it will grab better, and in the future the seams will not collapse under the influence of heat.
- For maximum heat transfer, the walls are laid out in one brick. It is not recommended to drown the Dutch woman with those types of fuel that are characterized by rapid combustion (brushwood, straw, dried reeds). The furnace does not have time to warm up, and all efforts literally fly out into the chimney.
- Fuel, which forms a lot of ash during combustion, will also not contribute to heating the room, but it forms a lot of soot in the chimney. This increases the risk of fire.
- The best option is a fuel that can smolder for a long time.
- It is worth adding to the issue of fire safety that the Dutch oven cannot be heated too much. It will emit carbon monoxide when overheated. The degree of heating is checked by the usual touch of the palm to the masonry: if the hand tolerates heat, then the temperature is about 50 ° C. This is the norm.
- For those who are laying stoves for the first time, it is worth doing a test laying in a “dry” way. That is, to perform all the work in stages, without fastening the bricks with mortar. So you can fill your hand and at the same time decide whether you need outside help.
Making a stove with your own hands is not the kind of activity that can be submitted the first time. A careful study of the schemes, trial masonry without the use of mortar, the advice of experienced craftsmen will make the task easier. Work and patience, according to the saying, greatly contribute to the positive outcome of any business.
