Redevelop an apartment, divide the space in a private house, or simply implement an original design solution - a plasterboard wall is a versatile option. And thanks to the ease of installation, even a beginner can handle its installation!
What you need to know about profiles and drywall?
The desired dimensions of the rooms will differ slightly from the planned ones, because part of the area will be “eaten up” by a new wall. To understand what to expect in the end, you need to know the width of the profiles and the thickness of the drywall sheets (GKL).
Profile characteristics and their purpose
Before buying materials and starting to mark up rooms, you need to understand the purpose and differences of profiles. So, according to their intended purpose, they are guides (PN) and rack-mount (PS).
As the name implies, the guide profile is attached to the floor and ceiling and vertical posts are already inserted into it.
- D - rack and guide profiles 60x27 mm and 27x28 mm, respectively, intended for fixing drywall on one side only;
- W - profiles for forming a full-fledged wall, sewn on both sides;
- C - rack profiles with a rib height of 50 mm;
- U - guides with a rib height of 40 mm;
- 50, 75, 100 - the width of the profile, which must match at the racks and guides.
For example, the CW 100 marking means that this is a rack-mount wall profile with dimensions of 50x100 mm. It requires a guide profile UW 100 (40x100 mm). When choosing a profile, you need to focus on the desired thickness of insulation / sound insulation. So, for profiles with a width of 75 mm, a standard insulation, laid in one layer (for example, mineral wool), is suitable.
The length of the profiles also depends on their purpose. The guides are available in the same length - 3 m, but the racks can be 3, 3.5 and 4 m. The fact is that it is highly discouraged to "build up" the guides in height - this will weaken the entire structure and can lead to cracks. Therefore, before buying racks, you need to measure the height of the ceilings.
Plasterboard sheets - thickness, dimensions and characteristics
Wall drywall is produced with a thickness of 12.5 mm - this is its minimum allowable value. In this case, the load on the wall cannot exceed 40 kg per square meter. Such a sheet is quite enough for finishing for painting or even laying tiles with your own hands. If you plan to install heavy equipment, shelves or other interior elements, you should choose sheets:
- 15 mm thick - for loads from 40 to 50 kg;
- 18 mm thick - for loads up to 70 kg;
- double sheets - for heavy loads from 70 kg.
The dimensions of the sheets are standard - width 120 cm, and the height can be from 2 m to 3 m in increments of 0.5 m. Also, do not forget that only moisture-resistant gypsum board is suitable for the wall in the bathroom. Also, fire-resistant sheets are becoming more and more popular - they do not flash, but slowly smolder and quickly go out in the absence of a fire source.
Based on these data, it is possible to determine the dimensions of the future room - from the initial marking, you need to retreat inward at least 8.75 cm (7.5 cm for the profile + 1.25 cm for drywall). If it is necessary to lay water pipes or cables in corrugations of large diameter in the walls, the walls are built from two rows of CD and UD profiles, and the width of the wall will depend on the selected distance between them.
Plasterboard wall installation
Often there are no perfectly flat walls, especially in old buildings, therefore, when dividing a room, you need to bind not to one, but to two opposite walls. This will minimize the visual unevenness of the future space.
If all surfaces will be sheathed with plasterboard, before making a new wall, first, using profiles and gypsum boards, the existing ones are maximally aligned. This will allow you to achieve even right angles, which will greatly simplify the finishing work in the future.
Installation of profiles
Setting the profiles is quite simple, but requires a lot of precision. To align the racks, it is advisable to purchase a laser level to speed up the process, but you can limit yourself to a conventional plumb line. Installation is carried out in stages:
- The profiles adjoining the walls, floor and ceiling are pre-pasted with sealing tape. It has a shock-absorbing and sound-insulating function.
- On the floor and ceiling along a pre-marked line, PNs are attached with a step of up to 1 m. To a wooden surface - with self-tapping screws 50 cm long, and to concrete - with dowels 75 cm long. In the second case, it is necessary to pre-drill holes with a puncher.
- Both the bearing and the rack-mount profile can be fixed to the walls. It is important to remember that it must be continuous, therefore, with a ceiling height of more than 3 m, only longer PSs will have to be used.
- If a doorway is provided, a gap is left in the floor profile in this place for the width of the opening. It is important to decide in advance on the width of the door - if the standard canvas is 80 cm, then the doorway must be 88 cm (to install the door frame).
- SS begin to install from the doorway - they will determine its width. First, the profile is fixed to the floor, after which it is leveled and fixed to the ceiling.
- The step of installing the racks is any convenient. Often they are placed for fixing sheets along the edges and in the center - therefore, you need to know in advance the dimensions of the gypsum board. The joints of the sheets should be in the middle of the PS, this should be taken into account when installing the profiles.
- The more often the step of the racks - the higher the strength of the wall, but also the higher the final cost. Also, to give it greater rigidity, a wooden beam or a supporting profile is inserted into the profiles that limit the doorway. For the same purpose, PS transverse struts are used, reinforced with the same bar. They are installed in the places of horizontal joints of the gypsum board.
- A lintel is also installed above the doorway. The height depends on the size of the door. For a standard two-meter canvas, the height should be 205 cm.
- The jumper is made of PS, which is cut 20-30 cm longer. On each side, retreating from the edge 10-15 cm, respectively, 45⁰ cuts are made on the side walls so that the bevel is directed outward. The cut sides are folded down, giving the profile a U-shape. (9) The vertical sides are put on the posts and fastened with self-tapping screws for metal. The corners protruding after cutting on the horizontal part are also screwed to the posts - this ensures maximum fastening reliability.
Important nuances of plasterboard installation
The sheets are attached to the profiles with special self-tapping screws with a press washer - they do not pierce the cardboard, but they sink well into the sheet. To improve the quality of the sealing of seams, all cut edges are chamfered from the upper side (for factory edges, this is not necessary, it is already there).
Using drywall for redevelopment of movements is an excellent choice in favor of quality and easy installation. And GKL sheets are cheaper than glass, forged metal or natural wood. Installation of drywall partitions is easy to carry out on your own, if you choose high-quality materials and tools that facilitate the process.
Before planning and destroying old floors, it is necessary to obtain permission from the house management, otherwise independent intervention in the apartment scheme may affect the safety of the whole house. If the redevelopment is planned in a private cottage, then there is no need to approach the process so strictly.
The main material for installing a plasterboard partition is sheets. They are divided into several types according to different indicators. The main one is thickness. If the structure is being erected for purely decorative purposes, there will be no doors in it, and shelves and other heavy parts are not provided on the sides, then the thickness of the product may be minimal.
Important! The thickness of the sheets is selected not "by eye", but according to calculations: the sum of the thickness of the insulation layer, all layers of drywall and frame.
Regardless of the type of drywall used, builders highlight a number of advantages of this material:
The optimum thickness for sheets is 12 mm. Such material is used in rooms with normal humidity levels. If the partition is made in a bathroom or shower, you need to take moisture-resistant drywall (it has a delicate mint color).
Types of drywall The next most important material is the profile. Conventional ceiling profiles cannot be used as they lack reliability. Most often, reinforced guides and metal rack profiles are used. They come in different types and thicknesses - from 50 x 40 mm to 100 x 40 mm.
Additional materials:
- dowels;
- self-tapping screws with a press washer;
- self-tapping screws for metal;
- sealing tape and reinforcing tape for seams;
- acrylic primer;
- putty;
- serpyanka mesh for sealing seams.
The tools required for the construction of the partition are marked with a separate item.
Tools required for work
When installing the plasterboard partitions, construction tools are used.
It is better not to replace them with improvised means, but to prepare everything in advance:
This set of tools and equipment for the installation of a partition is used if it is straight, without curves and additional angles. Additionally, you can buy a riveter for processing metal profiles.
How to install a drywall partition
Before installing a drywall partition, you must make sure that you have all the tools. It is better to start the process in the daylight. Do-it-yourself installation of a partition takes place in several stages, and one of the most important is marking. Never miss it, especially if you are installing such a structure for the first time.
Marking
It is necessary to start the installation of plasterboard partitions with marking. Do this on the floor using a long ruler, level and building angle.
The line should be perfectly flat, because subsequently the profile guide is attached to it:
It is necessary to make markings on the ceiling with special accuracy, otherwise the structure will turn out to be a curve, which will lead to its premature wear and the impossibility of installing the door.
Installing the frame
After you have applied the markings and made sure it is even, install the guide profiles. First, they put the part on the floor and fix it with dowels, bypassing the place for the door.
Advice! Holes for fasteners are made when the guides lie on the floor strictly according to the markings, after which the guides can be moved.
Having removed the guides, the master drives the plugs-dowels into the holes in the floor. Then the guide profiles are put in place and screwed on with self-tapping screws. After that, they make a final reconciliation of the markings, comparing the floor profile with the line on the ceiling. To do this, use a plumb line.
Next, the rack-mount profile is fixed along the lines on the walls, constantly checking the position of the metal in level so that there are no deviations to the side. The bottom of the vertical element is set to the horizontal guide. If the attachment is to concrete walls, use the same method as on the floor. If the walls are wooden, then the screws are screwed in without dowels. After installing the side strips, proceed to the installation of the ceiling guide.
Advice! It is necessary to screw in self-tapping screws at a distance of up to 300 mm from each other.
Fixing to the ceiling is done in the same way as to the floor. The next step is to determine the position of the door on the ceiling profile. To do this, use a plumb line, checking the floor markings with the ceiling. Height measurements are taken for the frame parts that will frame the door. The required workpieces are cut with scissors.
The vertical profile should be perfectly straight at this point.
The height of the door is marked on it, a crossbar from the profile is screwed according to the marks and reinforced with a wooden bar. Vertical racks are attached to it. Self-tapping screws are installed in the end.
If the ceilings in an apartment or house are high, then the installation of interior partitions is accompanied by the use of additional vertical profiles. They are attached approximately every 500 - 700 mm.
Now you need to measure the space between the door and the openings, calculate how many vertical racks are required. They are attached at a distance of 300-600 mm from each other. The required number of racks are cut out of the metal profile, then their ends are installed inside the guides. The process is controlled by the building level. It is necessary to fasten the profiles with self-tapping screws with larger caps.
Electrical wiring
When the frame is completely ready, electrical wiring is done inside. You can do this after the installation of plasterboard partitions - sheets - on one side is completed. In the profiles, you need to make holes through which the wires are pulled. All wiring must be covered with corrugated or smooth tubes to protect against possible damage.
Sheathing the frame with plasterboard
The big stage is the sheathing of the frame according to the size of the gypsum board with sheets. It is necessary to fasten drywall with prominent self-tapping screws (most often they use black ones, created specifically for fixing gypsum boards). The fastener heads are deepened by 1 mm.
If the sheet sizes are too large, they are cut off:
If the sheets are cut, they lose their chamfer. This impairs the installation of a plasterboard partition. You can use a beveled knife to make a chamfer.
Advice! If elements are used in the partition to turn on electricity, then holes in the sheets are cut out with crowns of the required diameter. Through them, wires are led out after complete installation of the structure.
Can also be installed on a ready-made half-box for a switch or socket. As soon as one side is installed, insulation is laid out in the space: isover, mineral wool, expanded polystyrene. You cannot leave empty space, otherwise it will lead to the appearance of an echo in the room and other undesirable consequences.
Door frame installation
The remaining empty doorway is processed last:
- A door jamb with hinges is installed according to the level, using larger self-tapping screws.
- The heads of the self-tapping screws are deepened into the wooden racks of the box.
- The door is suspended (it is advisable to choose the lightest canvas possible).
If problems arise due to insufficiently even installation of the profiles, or if the opening is slightly larger, use wooden spacers. The remaining gaps are filled with polyurethane foam. When it is completely dry, the protruding parts are cut out with a knife.
Seam sealing
The final stage of installation of partitions made of gypsum plasterboard is the sealing of all seams, including caps of screws and nails. At this stage, a serpyanka mesh is applied. It is best to choose a material with glue applied, then the installation will be faster:
After all the procedures, they proceed to the stage of finishing the finished partition.
Finishing
Careful final processing is necessary so that the decorative materials lay flat and correctly on the sheets. A sloppy look will nullify all the efforts of the builder.
The finishing is completed with a final layer of putty, after which it is processed with fine-grain sandpaper.
After cleaning the wall from dust, apply an additional layer of primer and wait until it dries completely. Now you can apply wallpaper or other decorative elements.
Making a drywall partition with your own hands is not only a simple, but also an exciting process that even a beginner can handle. The main thing is to strictly follow the recommendations and not skip the steps.
The layout of any living space is a purely personal matter, and what one likes may not suit others fundamentally. In order to be able to make your own adjustments, to reshape the space for yourself, there is a simple but reliable method, which involves the use of drywall sheets, with which even a beginner can work. The main thing is to know exactly how to make a wall from this material.
Peculiarities
The house is a real fortress for everyone, therefore it is so important to equip it in such a way as to feel confident, comfortable and good in it. Buying a new home or changing the number of residents of an old one may require redevelopment of the space so that everyone is comfortable in it. An additional room may be needed in an old house if the family is replenished or one of the relatives needs a private enclosed space in which to be alone.
Particularly acute is the issue of planning in new free-type buildings. where there is no clear framework for the premises, and each tenant can make the design that he likes. It is possible to erect brick walls, this has its advantages, because such a structure will last a long time and nothing will happen to it. But it is not easy to build such walls, and most importantly, it requires a large amount of materials. For those who have never laid a brick, it will not be easy to cope with this task and make a high-quality and durable partition.
In view of all these circumstances, one of the simplest and most convenient options is the construction of drywall walls. Such designs are easy to make on your own and this process is within the power of even non-professionals. In this matter, it is important to know what is needed to build a wall and what difficulties you will have to face.
Plasterboard wall has a number of important advantages compared to brick - it is easy to install, does not create a lot of weight on the floor due to the frame made of thin profiles and simple sheets, the thickness of which does not exceed a centimeter.
Another factor that can be considered an advantage of such structures is the possibility of erecting partitions, walls and walls without obtaining the appropriate permission for redevelopment, which will speed up the process and save you from unnecessary procedures. To work on creating new boundaries of the room, you need to determine what and where will change, mark the territory and calculate how much materials will be needed.
Plasterboard sheets are quite compact in thickness and when stacked one on top of the other, you can bring a lot of material at once. Its weight is also small.
In order for the new walls to be warm and not to allow sound to pass through, insulation and sound insulation are placed inside the structure. It is possible to carry out wiring in it, install a switch and an outlet so that the functionality of the room does not suffer from its redevelopment.
When planning the alteration of large-scale objects, it is important to understand how justified the use of this or that material will be, therefore you just need to clearly understand what the pros and cons of drywall and what exactly it will allow you to create in a living room.
Advantages and disadvantages
The use of drywall made it possible to obtain fantastic opportunities that were previously extremely difficult, if not impossible, to achieve using brick as the main material and erecting walls, piers and partitions from it.
From this material indoors you can make:
- a wall that will divide the room;
- a partition that will allow you to zone the space or give a decorative effect due to an intricate design;
- a complex decorative concept and achieve original shapes and textures in the room.
A feature of drywall is the ease of working with it. In order to build a wall, you need to form a frame and sheathe it with sheets. The frame structure can be either metal profiles or wood. The resulting structure is sheathed with plasterboard on both sides.
Sheets can be regular, waterproof and fire resistant, their choice will be dictated by the place where the new wall or partition is created. When one wall is sheathed, glass or mineral wool should be placed inside the structure, so that the piers not only help divide the room into two parts, but also perform the function of heating and sound protection.
Among the advantages of this material are:
- ease of installation of structures of any type and complexity;
- the ability to erect structures of any shape and type;
- when carrying out work on the construction of walls or partitions, you do not need to have any special or expensive tools;
- inside the wall, you can place wiring, telephone cable, air duct, which also makes it functional;
- the resulting wall will be absolutely flat and smooth, therefore, the work on its leveling will be reduced to grouting the joints between the plates and puttying the entire surface for further decorative work;
- after all the preparatory work, the finished wall can be painted in any color, pasted over with wallpaper or even tiled.
This material also has its drawbacks, which include:
- change in the properties of the material upon contact with water, drywall from this can swell;
- any load must be thought out in advance and the place of attachment of the picture, sconce, lamp or lamp must be initially reinforced;
- too heavy objects should not be installed on this surface, which should be taken into account initially when planning and determining the places of each decor element.
So, with the help of drywall, you can make a wall of any shape and appearance that you can imagine, while sound insulation and heat in the room will be at a high level, because for this, an appropriate filling is placed inside the structure. Sockets with switches allow you not to limit the possibilities of a new space.
Materials and tools
When planning the construction of a drywall wall, you need to choose the right materials and have all the necessary tools with you so that the work process takes as little time as possible and does not take up a lot of effort and energy. In order for the wall to be strong enough, a frame is erected for it from a metal profile. There are different profiles for different purposes.
Most often, two options are used for such structures:
- A profile, but which will be attached directly to the drywall itself. It is smaller and is conventionally referred to as "D".
- The profile with which the main frame of the wall will be erected. It should be more powerful and larger, conventionally designated as "W".
For each of the above profiles, there are two more options, one of which is support and is designated as "C", and the second is a guide and is designated as "U". The guide profile is simpler, it looks like a U-shaped structure and smooth walls. The support profile is inserted into it with the end. It also has an additional difference from the guide in the form of ribbing, which gives greater strength to the material and does not allow spontaneous bending.
As the main supporting element of the frame, you need to use a support and a smaller profile, to which the drywall sheet will be attached. Its size is 60 by 27 millimeters. As guides for securing such a structure, you need to use a narrow guide profile with dimensions of 28 by 27 millimeters. In order to form the wall frame, you need to take a support and a large profile with dimensions of 50 by 50, 50 by 75 or 50 by 100 millimeters. As a guide for this design, a large guide profile with dimensions of 50 by 40, 75 by 40, 100 by 40 is used.
There is another version of the profile, which is a thicker and reinforced version of the supporting large profile. For the construction of simple walls, only wide profiles are used, but for more complex structures in which it is planned to lay any communications, it is already necessary to use thin profile options.
In order for the profile to be connected into a frame, you need to have a direct suspension or use a universal connector. The twisting process is carried out using small self-tapping screws, which have a drill at the end. In addition, special self-tapping screws for metal are used, which have a countersunk head. To fix the frame to the wall, you cannot do without plastic dowels and shock self-drilling.
The optimal thickness of drywall sheets for a wall is 12.5 millimeters. An obligatory element should be a wide bevel on the side of the sheet. Depending on the room, you need to choose the appropriate material - a moisture-resistant sheet is needed for the kitchen and bathroom, and an ordinary one is also suitable for an ordinary room. A distinctive feature will be the color - for moisture-resistant sheets it is green, for ordinary sheets it is gray.
Thus, the crate of a drywall structure is most often made from a metal profile, but in some cases wood can also be used. Depending on the type of construction, it will be possible to choose one or another material and select its thickness.
Tools that will be needed during the construction of walls from plasterboard sheets:
- tape measure at least 3 meters long;
- level 80 or 120 centimeters;
- plumb lines;
- fishing line with rope;
- cordless or cordless screwdriver, impact drill with attachments for self-tapping screws;
- puncher;
- scissors with which you can cut metal;
- construction knife for cutting drywall sheets;
- plasterboard float.
Frame
In order to make a high-quality and even drywall wall, first of all, it will be necessary to erect a metal frame, on which the sheets will already be attached. For the installation to be carried out correctly, certain patterns must be taken into account. The first step will be to mark the area where the construction is planned. The next step is to check the evenness of the corners.
Due to the fact that the walls in the room are often not too even, when building a new wall, you need to focus not only on one wall, but also take into account two opposite sides. If the walls have too uneven corners, the easiest way is to cover each of them with drywall, which will allow them to be aligned. Only after that, approach the installation of a new profile.
A laser level is best to level the posts., but if not, a simple plumb line can be used. Before mounting the profile for walls, ceiling and floor, you need to paste over it with a special sealing tape. It will help in shock absorption and sound insulation. Before you start attaching the profiles, you need to make a clear marking of the places on the floor, wall and shelf, where the base for the frame will be attached.
When everything is ready, you can begin to secure the guide profile, taking a step up to one meter. If the fastening goes to a wooden surface, then the distance is 50 centimeters and the adhesion is with self-tapping screws. If the work is done with a concrete surface, then the frame is screwed with dowels in 75 centimeters increments. In this case, it is important to make the holes in advance.
Both the bearing and the rack-mount profile can be attached to the wall, but it is important that it be solid. If the height of the canvases is more than three meters, then longer materials will have to be used for the structure. In the event that a door is planned in a new wall, it is important for it to leave an opening of the required width on the floor. In the case of standard door dimensions of 80 centimeters, it is important to make the opening 8 centimeters wider in order to be able to install the door frame.
The rack profile is installed from the doorway and determines its width. The first place for fixing the profile is the floor, then the level of the entire structure is checked and it is attached to the ceiling. Racks can be installed in any step, it depends on the drywall sheets. Most often they are installed as a fastening tool for sheets at the edge and in the middle of the entire structure. The joint of two sheets should lie clearly in the middle of the profile.
If the racks are installed frequently, then the strength of the wall increases, it will withstand a lot, but the cost of the work also increases. As for the profile framing the doorway, for greater rigidity, a wooden block or a bearing profile can be placed in it. You can also use transverse spacers, which are also reinforced with a bar and installed where there is a horizontal drywall joint.
The doorway from above is additionally equipped with a lintel. The installation height depends on the dimensions of the door. If it is two meters, then the jumper should be installed at a height of two meters and five centimeters. They make it from a rack profile, which needs to be cut off longer - not 20, or even 30 centimeters. After stepping back 10 or 15 centimeters from each side of the profile, you need to make an incision at 45 degrees. The bevel must point outward.
The sides that have been trimmed must be bent down and give the structure a U-shape. The vertical parts must be put on the racks and fixed with self-tapping screws for metal. When working with drywall sheets, it is important to use only special self-tapping screws that have a press washer. It is she who helps to easily pass through the canvas, while not damaging the cardboard and allowing the cap to go deeper to the required distance.
Step-by-step installation instructions
If you need to create a drywall structure with your own hands, you need to properly organize the course of work. The first thing that is necessary is to level the floor and walls to which the structure of the future wall will be attached. Only then can you make the markings on the floor, taking into account both parallel walls to derive the correct angle for the structure. If the adjacent walls will also be covered with plasterboard, then initially a crate is erected for them, and only after that the installation of the frame for the new wall begins.
According to the markings that are applied to the floor and walls, only the profile needs to be leveled, and the width of the entire wall will increase after installing the gypsum board and putty. Be sure to note the location of the doorway, if provided. After the markings are completed on the floor, the next step is to mark the wall and ceiling. To make everything perfectly accurate, it is better to use a laser level. If one is not available, a simple plumb line will do.
When everything is ready, a metal frame is erected. The first profile is fixed to the floor with dowels. The second stage is the erection of a part of the structure on the ceiling. When both parts are ready, they are connected to a common structure using CW support legs. If there is a door or window, you need to use the same racks for them. Installation takes place from the bottom up, the front side should be directed inside the window or door openings.
The next step is the installation of vertical supports from the same CW profile with a distance of 55 and 60 centimeters from each other. When everything is ready, all supports are checked by the level. After that, work is underway to set the horizontal edges with the UW profile. When all this work has been completed, you can begin to fasten drywall sheets.
Based on the fact that this material has standard sizes of 2 by 1.20 m, 2.50 by 1.20 m and 3 by 1.20 m, different dimensions will be needed for different ceilings. If the room is not high, then the sheet will most likely have to be cut; the same principle is used for ceilings over three meters, when the length will have to be increased.
In order to cut the sheet, use a construction knife.
The cutting process consists of the following stages:
- laying the sheet on a surface that should be as flat and firm as possible;
- you need to draw a line along which the cut will go with a pencil;
- you need to cut it carefully and only the cardboard itself;
- the sheet is shifted to the edge of an even support to the drawn line, by pressing it is necessary to make a break along it;
- turn the drywall over and draw the same line on the back side, along which to make the same incision;
- displace along the notch line, push and completely break the gypsum board.
The next step will be to attach the plasterboard sheets to the finished frame.
This requires:
- On the first sheet, a side chamfer is removed, for which a strip of 55 millimeters is cut.
- Fastening of sheets is carried out from the bottom corner of the wall. It is important to make a small indent from the floor of 10 or 15 millimeters.
- Fastening the sheet to the crate using self-tapping screws 3.5 x 35 mm. The edges are attached first, and then they move to the middle. The width from the self-tapping screw to the self-tapping screw should not exceed d25 centimeters. The hats must be slightly deepened into the surface of the sheet.
- After installing the first drywall element, you need to measure the distance that remains to the ceiling and cut off the corresponding piece.
- Forming a chamfer on a sheet.
- Install it on the frame.
- It is important to fasten the following sheets in a checkerboard pattern, but there is no need to cut the chamfer. This is how the whole sheet is fastened, without trimming. The fixing goes from the ceiling to the floor. Thus, the entire side of the future wall is sheathed.
Once the work on one side has been completed, it is important to consider whether wiring and telephone cables will be needed in the new room. If so, the next step is to install them. For wiring, it is necessary to prepare corrugated pipes and bring wires into them. After that, it is necessary to make holes with a diameter of 3.5 cm in the profile and thread pipes with wires through them. It is important to decide on the holes for the sockets and the switch and make them in advance.
To build a high-quality wall, you need to supplement its interior with appropriate materials., which will have sound insulation and make it possible to feel confident and comfortable, as if behind a stone wall. This must be done correctly, using a roll of mineral wool 6 or 12 centimeters thick. The cotton wool fits tightly between the profiles, this will be enough for good fixing. After everything is done, you can put up a second wall.
The technology of its sheathing is the same. As soon as all the installation work is completed, it begins a new stage where the finished wall is processed:
- the joints between the drywall sheets are glued with a serpyanka;
- processing the wall with starting putty;
- finishing the wall with finishing putty, leveling the places where the screws are located;
- grouting the putty with sandpaper;
- decorative wall decoration.
A false wall can be ready quickly enough, it all depends on the skill of the master and his experience. A beginner can also assemble such a structure, it just will take him more time.
Interior walls will serve for a long time, the main thing is to monitor the conditions of their operation. As a decor for such elements, you can use paint, wallpaper or tiles, it all depends on the room, interior and the wishes of the owners themselves.
Design
Drywall is a very convenient material for work, especially for creating interesting and unusual images in the interior. This becomes possible due to the fact that sheets can take on a wide variety of shapes, they can not only be cut, but also bend, for which it is enough just to wet the sheet and give it the desired shape.
You can use this material anywhere- both in a private house and in an apartment, and in each case, the design can be completely different. The options for how a particular space might look can differ in style, shape, and texture. It is possible to erect structures with gypsum plasterboard in the bathroom, bedroom, corridor and any other room, only the finishing material will differ. For rooms with a high level of humidity, moisture-resistant sheets are used.
A false wall is completely similar to a conventional one, moreover, it can be equipped with a door and fully serve its owners to separate certain areas of the room. To fulfill such an idea, when designing, they leave room for an opening and later place doors in it.
For zoning space, it is not necessary to erect entire walls; you can limit yourself to a small partition that will look spectacular with backlighting from above and decorative boxes. The implementation of the partition as a non-continuous sheet allows to give the structure lightness. Equipped with shelves will help add coziness and hide small things in a secluded place. This option works best for the living room, but you can use it in the hall as well.
A distinctive characteristic of drywall is the ability to apply any decoration methods to it. To create a cozy atmosphere in living rooms, you can glue the wallpaper on the finished wall or paint it in any color and even overlay it with natural or artificial stone. The latter option is especially well suited for a fireplace, which can also be made from gypsum plasterboard. In the kitchen or bathroom, the dyeing option is also suitable, but you can also put tiles to precisely protect the walls from excess moisture and create a full-fledged feeling of a real brick wall.
When planning the construction of a plasterboard wall, it is initially necessary to prepare the room. There should be nothing superfluous in it, because it will not be easy to place a sheet 2 or 3 meters long in it. The room should be clean enough so that the drywall sheets do not get dirty, because then you will need to get rid of the stains so that they do not appear on the surface of the wallpaper or paint.
It is important to plan the room correctly, take into account the heating system, and if necessary, bring the batteries into the new living space. It is also necessary to take into account the light that will be blocked by the new structure. If the windows are located only on one side, it is important not to completely block access to them.
If not a wall is formed, but a partition, it is better to make it with shelves, and not a solid structure, which will allow both the space to be divided, and the storage area to be made, and the access of light to the second part of the room to provide.
Examples in the interior
A plasterboard wall can become a real highlight in the interior, the main thing is to correctly approach the process of its design, choose the right materials that will help decorate the room and emphasize its features.
In the bedroom, using drywall, you can create an original and unique design. The wall by the bed is designed with flowery lines, soft shapes add coziness and promote good rest. The presence of shelves allows you to store small things there and use them as a place for lamps.
For the living room, especially when it borders on the kitchen and is not separated by walls, you can use the original semicircular structure, which rises from the wall to the ceiling. The space is divided into two zones. In this case, using white is the best way to increase the space of both zones.
A plasterboard wall can be designed immediately with a doorway to divide the space between two rooms. Doors can be single or double, with glass or dull, it depends on the design of the room.
For information on how to make a drywall partition, see the next video.
Many modern apartments do not have a layout and therefore the owners independently divide the total area into rooms using interior partitions, or use decorative ones.
The easiest, fastest and most affordable way to create interior partitions are plasterboard structures... Such partitions can be either solid or with a door, and if you have the desire and time, then you can make them yourself.
Drywall is a versatile building material that is used both for decorating a room and for creating new structures in it, including interior partitions, and for creating an apartment. Only the following can compete with him in terms of characteristics: or
Benefits of using drywall if it is necessary to create an interior partition with a door, they will be as follows:
- it is light material, therefore, the load on the structure of the house will be insignificant;
- all work with it is done by hand, without the involvement of assistants, since the material is light;
- the cost of drywall is low, as well as the materials needed to create the frame and surface finish ;
- material is easy to cut, it bends easily, therefore, even arched structures are created with its help;
- installation of the frame and sheets is simple and quick;
- finishing of such structures is carried out with various materials;
- gypsum plasterboards are made of natural materials, therefore they are safe for human health.
There are different types of drywall, therefore, before buying it, you need to decide which one you need:
- normal, most often gray, used in rooms where the humidity is not more than 70%;
- moisture resistant, has a green or blue color and is used in those rooms where the humidity is constantly high;
- refractory, usually used in the kitchen, where there is a possibility of strong heating of the wall, fiberglass and other additives are present in its composition, it is red or gray;
- fireproof moisture resistant, it is rarely used in rooms with difficult conditions.
Normal sheet thickness is 12.5mm, and to create arches, sheets with a thickness of 6.5 mm are used; to give them flexibility, they are pre-moistened.
Interior partition device
At the first stage of the work, it is necessary to determine the location of the future partition. To carry out the marking, use a plumb line and a cord, parallel lines are applied on the floor and on the ceiling.
It is much easier to work with a laser level, but buying it only to create a drywall wall is impractical.
Given the presence of a door, the profile is not laid on the floor for the entire length of the partition, but space is left for the doorway. When laying the profile, keep in mind that the distance left for the door is 1-2 cm larger than its width in order to be able to install the door frame.
When marking, the width of the partition is also taken into account., if it is sheathed in one sheet, then add 2.5 cm to the thickness of the frame, and if the gypsum board is laid in two layers, then add 5 cm.
To carry out the specified work, you will need the following tools:
- building level;
- measuring instruments;
- a cord and a plumb line, or as their replacement - a laser level;
- corner;
- electric drill;
- scissors for metal or jigsaw;
- pencil;
- stationery knife;
- putty knife;
- container for plaster.
After marking, we cut off the profile of the required length, we glue the back walls with sealing tape.
Installation of profiles
Work begins with laying and securing the guide rail to the floor., after which it is installed around the entire perimeter of the future partition. The profile is fixed using screws or dowel nails, it all depends on the material of the walls.
Now using the rack profile we form a doorway, this must be done carefully and carefully, so that the distance between the posts above and below is the same... The verticality of the racks is checked by level, after which they are fixed.
To increase the strength of the doorway, it is recommended to put wooden blocks of the appropriate size in the racks and fix them with self-tapping screws.
At the next stage, the rest of the rack profiles are mounted., if you have a standard width gypsum board, then the distance between them is 60 cm. 
To increase the strength of the future partition, between the vertical posts, it is necessary to fix horizontal jumpers, which are cut from the same profile.
A wooden block is also installed and fixed in the transverse profile located above the doorway, it should easily enter it, so as not to disturb the shape, using a square check that the angles are 90 degrees.
The rest of the transverse profiles are attached to the racks; for this, special short self-tapping screws are used.
After the frame is created, you will see that its structure is quite rigid and strong, start laying electrical wiring... The rack profiles have holes through which it will be convenient to thread the wires.
The wiring is placed in a special corrugated non-combustible insulation.
Fastening drywall
At home you can use a utility knife to cut drywall and a long ruler or rail. To do this, a ruler is applied to the sheet, a cut is made several times along the line, the deeper it is, the better, and then gently break the gypsum board and get the required size.
To simplify finishing work, at the cut point, make a chamfer at an angle of about 45 degrees, for this use a plane or knife.
During settlements, it is necessary to foresee in advance the places where it is planned to mount hinged furniture or equipment.
Here additional profiles, reinforced with wooden bars, are necessarily installed, it all depends on the weight of the hinged structures.
Left attach the sheet to the racks, and fix it, this is done using self-tapping screws, they are installed with a step of 20 cm and slightly recessed in the sheet.
If you forgot to make chamfers on the sheets before installing them, then this is done with a knife when they are installed on the wall.
Carrying out finishing works
Installation of the frame and gypsum board is only the beginning of creating a drywall partition. In the next step all seams are sealed. To do this, use a serpyanka tape and putty. Putty is also carried out on the entire surface of the wall. 
After the base is dry, they begin to level the surface. The wall is covered with a primer, which will allow the plaster to gain a foothold and provide additional protection to the gypsum board. Leveling is carried out with a wide trowel and finishing plaster. 
Door block installation
In the prepared opening, door frame installation, do it with wedges, self-tapping screws and foam... First, the frame is exposed with wedges and fixed with self-tapping screws, after which they proceed to the installation of the door leaf.
The correctness of the work is being checked, while the door should be easy to open and close. If everything is normal, then the remaining gaps are filled with polyurethane foam.
At this time, the door is in a closed position, or spacers are inserted into the frame so that when the foam hardens, it does not deform it.
Cut off the foam after it has completely solidified, if the canvas was removed, then hang it only a day after the installation of the box.
Finishing
At the last stage of creating a drywall wall, its finishing is carried out, for this usually use paint or wallpaper. The frame is trimmed with platbands, which help to hide the door attachment points.
Features of insulation and sound insulation
It is not recommended to leave the hollow partition; it will be filled with sheet or roll insulation. They are laid after one side of the wall is sheathed with plasterboard., and only then it is sheathed on the other side. 
If it is planned to install utility lines or a sliding door in such a wall, then the insulation is not laid in the place where they are located.
To create sound insulation, use mineral wool or isover. At the bottom, when installing the sheet, you need to leave a small gap, therefore, stands of the appropriate thickness are installed.
In order for you to independently create a drywall wall with an opening for doors, you must adhere to the following expert advice:
- During the installation of partitions, in the room should be at least 10 degrees Celsius.
- You need to calculate the required number of guides and rack-mount metal profiles, only then purchase them. You can cut them to the required size with a jigsaw or metal scissors.
- The sheets are stacked tightly to each other.
- To create holes for sockets, you must use special drill bits.
- At the junction of the sheets, be sure to use a serpyanka and well seal the heads of the self-tapping screws with putty, after which they putty the entire wall.
- As finishing materials, you can use paint, wallpaper, tiles, cladding panels and others.
Output
Now you see that there is nothing complicated in the construction of drywall partitions and all the work can be done independently. Having studied the technology for performing the work, the advice of specialists and having prepared the necessary tools, feel free to start performing these works.
Useful video
How to make a plasterboard partition with your own hands, step-by-step instructions on the video:
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In new apartments with a large area and in old apartments with outdated layouts, there is a desire to remake the premises for themselves. You can always make two smaller rooms from one large room. For these purposes, interior drywall partitions are used. They are an effective solution in this situation due to their lightness and ease of installation. Also, their construction does not need to be coordinated with anyone.
Such partitions can be used to separate the nursery where children of different sexes live. Alternatively, the living room can be converted into two bedrooms. Regardless of the situation, the process of erecting plasterboard partitions in the room will be the same.
Any design must have a number of positive qualities so that it can be used in practice. Consider the benefits of drywall partitions that are used in the room of the apartment.
Selection of basic materials
Having decided on the need to use partitions to divide the space in the room, you should figure out the tools and materials that will be required to carry out the work.
Drywall is of course number one. A typical 12.5 mm thick plasterboard wall is used. The sheets have a standard width of 1.2 meters, and the lengths are 2.5 and 3 meters. There are other options, but these are standard. It is better to take those sheets that are shorter, since they are easier to bring into the house. You can take fire-resistant sheets (they have pink cardboard). In this situation, they will be appropriate if the children's room is divided, and power cables will be laid in the partition itself.
Sound insulation material is fixed thanks to metal profiles An interior partition made of plasterboard with sound insulation will allow neighbors to comfortably listen to music, watch a movie or talk calmly. Since the room is divided into two parts, the use of soundproofing materials is necessary. They are installed in a metal frame.
Various profiles that can be used to assemble the frame
To assemble the frame, metal profiles are required. The standard length of such profiles ranges from 3-4 meters (short ones are more convenient, since it is more realistic to bring them into the apartment without cutting or bending). What profiles might you need?
- Guides are classics of the genre. They are fixed to the surface and serve as the basis for attaching other profiles. It is convenient to cut jumpers from the guides.
- The post profile is a thrust element of the supporting structures. It seems to support the entire frame, because it is used as a vertical support.
- Corner and ceiling profiles are not used when creating interior partitions.
Installation of interior drywall partitionsinvolves the creation of a frame from profiles. But which profiles to take, because they all have different sizes? It is necessary to select the size so that the rack profile fits tightly into the guide. You need to look at this first. And then if you take guides 28x27 mm and racks 50x50 mm, then nothing will come of it. If a 50x40 guide profile is used, then the 50x50 mm racks will be just right.
Selection of fasteners and tools
To fix all elements of the interior partition made of gypsum plasterboard you will need:
- dowels 6x40 mm for fixing the frame to the floor, wall and ceiling;
- self-tapping screws phosphate black. The length of the self-tapping screw should be 25 mm if the wall plasterboard is attached in one layer. Sometimes, for greater reliability and better sound insulation of the interior partition, sheets of plasterboard are attached in two layers on top of each other. In this case, self-tapping screws 3.5x35 mm will be required for the second layer;
- bugs (small screws with a drill and a press washer) are used to fasten the profiles to each other. They should be as short as possible (for example, 4.2x19 mm), and the head should be as flat as possible. The presence of the "bugs" drill simplifies their passage through two profiles.
- the sealing tape must be used. It is installed between the surface and the frame, thereby improving the sound insulation characteristics of the assembled structure.
In addition to fasteners, you will need special tools for the job. Without them, the installation of an interior plasterboard partition will not succeed. These tools include a screwdriver, a drill, a level, a plumb line, metal scissors, a construction knife, a hammer, and a tape measure. However, this list is not complete or mandatory. Some tools are not required, but others may be useful instead (hole saw, cutter, chop cord, hammer drill, edge planer, etc.).
When the partition for dividing the room is assembled, it will need to be prepared for finishing. For these purposes you will need:
- primer;
- a roller with a container for it;
- putty;
- serpyanka;
- a set of spatulas;
- reinforcing corners;
- sandpaper.
Room layout
The quality of the partition depends on the correct layout of the room. It is necessary to decide on the place where the partition will pass. With the help of a laser level, lines are drawn on the ceiling, walls and floor. If it is not there, then you will need to draw the first line on the ceiling. This requires a water level and a long ruler (guide profile).
Using a plumb line, the extreme points of the line on the ceiling are transferred to the floor. Now there are two points on the floor, between which another line is drawn. Upholstery cord can be used. Next, it's up to a little, draw lines on the walls in a similar way, focusing on the mark that is already on the floor and ceiling.
When do-it-yourself drywall partitions are assembled, they usually have a doorway, although not always. The space under the doorway also needs to be marked out in order to know to what place to let the profile on the floor and where to insert additional posts with mortgages.
General rules for assembling a frame for a partition
The interior partition should not rest against the window The base of the frame is assembled from guide profiles that are attached along the perimeter of the future partition. The best place to start is from the ceiling. The guide is pressed against the ceiling and a hole is drilled with a drill. Then the dowel is hammered, which presses the guide to the surface. The fixing step is 0.5-1 meter, depending on the upcoming operational loads. Perhaps only a couple of hangers will be hung on the partition, or maybe it will be tiled and several massive book shelves will be attached to it.
Do not forget to use sealing tape wherever the profiles are in contact with any surface. This improves the soundproofing characteristics of the partition.
Similar to the guide, the rest of the profiles are attached to the ceiling. It is not necessary to dock them together in the corners. All the same, drywall in the corners is not attached with self-tapping screws. Now the perimeter of the future partition made of a metal profile and drywall is ready.
The location of the profiles in the frame It is necessary to insert racks to strengthen the structure. They are inserted in increments of 40 to 60, depending on how the drywall sheets will then be attached. The fact is that the joints of the sheets should fall on the profile. Usually, the racks are installed in 60 cm increments with the expectation that the entire structure will be additionally reinforced with jumpers.
The uprights should be installed sideways so that drywall can be attached to them from both sides. In other words, the ribs of the upright profile should run parallel to the plane of the frame.
When assembling an interior partition from drywall with your own hands, it is important that the gypsum board lies flat on the frame. Therefore, the racks are attached to the rails using a special cutter tool. If it is not there, then use small self-tapping screws for metal. Screw in two bugs in each place where the rack-mount profile enters the guide (a total of 8 self-tapping screws will come out for each rack). However, the caps stick out a little, which is why the drywall also does not fit perfectly flat.
Jumpers make the whole frame more durable If the vertical posts were installed in 40 cm increments, then jumpers can be dispensed with. If the step is 60 cm, then you need to install several horizontal jumpers for greater structural strength. A profile is simply cut from the guides, which are mounted horizontally between the vertical posts. The step of fastening is 50-60 cm. The lintels are also fastened with bedbugs or with a cutter.
Jumpers can be specially installed in the attachment points of future shelves, so that their installation is even more reliable. You can insert a wooden beam into such a jumper if you plan to hang something massive on the wall.
How to fill the void of the partition: sound insulation
Depending on the thickness of the drywall interior partition, you can choose how to fill the resulting void. The thickness is the sum of the width of the guide and two thicknesses of the gypsum board. The width of the rail is the same as the height of the rack-mount profile (not to be confused with the length) and is selected individually by everyone. This width gives a certain void inside the partition.
It is possible to assemble two frames for partitions at a distance of 10-20 cm from each other. They are then sheathed with plasterboard, and a thick partition is obtained. They go to this step when they are going to place a lot of things inside such a structure.
There is enough space inside the structure to extend the power cable for connecting an outlet or wall lamp. Such cables must necessarily go in a corrugation for fire safety purposes.
Soundproofing material should not be subject to combustion In most cases, the cavity is filled with soundproofing material. Therefore, vertical posts are often installed with a pitch equal to the width of the soundproofing material. Then it fits without the need for additional trimming and does not tilt to the side. Sound insulation of interior drywall partitions should be carried out after one side of the structure is sheathed with gypsum board.
The sound-insulating material fits comfortably into the grooves of the upper and lower profile. It will rest against the back of one rack-mount profile, but will fit well into the intercostal space of the second rack. For this reason, the racks are placed so that they all look in the same direction. Some people prefer to install two poles back to back so that the soundproofing goes into them and does not rest on anything.
The horizontal lintels also serve as an additional fixation for sound insulation. Although this is not so critical, everything will ultimately be pressed by sheets of drywall.
Installing a doorway
Separately, it is worth dwelling on those cases when a door is required to be installed in the interior partitions. We will not consider the process of installing the door itself, but we will focus on how to correctly make an opening for this very door.
The interior door is not heavy enough to damage the partition structure Before making an interior plasterboard partition, you need to decide where the door will stand. After calculations with the doorway, the points where it will be located are marked on the floor. It is necessary to take into account not only the width of the door leaf, but also the door frame itself, therefore the calculations are carried out carefully.
The floor profile is laid on both sides up to the doorway. A rack profile is inserted into each end of the rail, which goes all the way to the ceiling. There will be a doorway between these two profiles. To indicate the height of the opening, a horizontal lintel is installed between the two profiles. All actions are carried out using a level, because here errors are especially dangerous.
It is necessary to use wooden blocks that are inserted into the posts and the lintel. They should fit tightly into the profile, after which they are fixed with self-tapping screws. The upper jumper is additionally fixed with nails, which are driven into its end by two pieces. The resulting doorway, although it came out of the metal profile, is reinforced with wood bars.
Plasterboard step-by-step
When the frame of the interior partition is ready, then the matter is only small, because there is nothing complicated in plasterboard cladding.
Preparation for finishing
The resulting interior partition cannot remain in this form. It should be prepared for finishing.
Self-tapping caps do not need preliminary priming All caps of self-tapping screws must be puttied. The joints between the sheets of drywall are first primed, and then putty. In this case, the primer makes sense only if the edges of the sheets have been chamfered. The use of a primer will make the adhesion of the starting putty to the surface of the gypsum board better. After applying the putty to the joints, you need to use a serpyanka, which will prevent the putty from cracking in these places in the future. The corner parts of the interior partition must be putty and reinforced with a special reinforcing corner.
When the putty is dry, you will need to sandpaper it to remove the bumps and sagging that may have formed during the work. After that, the interior plasterboard partition is all primed and putty. If necessary, the second layer of finishing putty can also be sanded with sandpaper.
Now the interior partition can be painted or pasted over with wallpaper of your choice.
