We bring to your attention a master class on the manufacture of plasterboard partitions. In the article you will find all the information necessary for a novice installer. We will also indicate the technological and operational features of the gypsum board walls.
Partitions made of plasterboard panels, assembled on a metal frame, have long been considered classics of the genre. Such constructions have been successfully used abroad for several decades. They appeared here in the nineties and with their functionality literally fascinated developers and professional builders. At first it was difficult to find all the necessary materials, and there was almost no information about the technology for installing frame partitions (the craftsmen had to work using their general construction knowledge and often primordially Russian ingenuity). Now we have at our disposal fully complete systems and the most detailed technological maps from manufacturers. The organization of internal space has never been so simple. These are truly versatile systems that are especially good for redevelopment during renovations.
Now, after many years of trouble-free operation of drywall walls, we can safely say that the fears of skeptics about reliability and durability have not materialized. Such partitions can be enclosing structures inside any heated premises, including where it is humid, fire resistance and protection against penetration are needed.
Ten reasons to choose drywall partitions
Let's look at the main advantages of plasterboard partitions. We will limit ourselves to ten points, but in fact this list is much longer:
- The technology is dry. Okay, almost dry - there is no getting away from puttying, but this is nothing compared to any other options that require full plaster or so-called leveling. In addition, brick or block masonry itself must be dried.
- The weight. Again, no competitors. The load on the subfloor or overlap will be minimal (for one-layer sewing, the mass per square meter is about 25-30 kg). You can safely mount such a partition on top of wet and dry screeds, wooden floors, on weak Khrushchev slabs, etc.
- Load bearing capacity. There has never been such a thing that it was impossible to reliably hang something on a plasterboard wall. Bulk dowels for hollow structures work wonders - on a sheet with a thickness of 12.5 mm, one attachment point holds up to 30 kg. Officially (according to the company "Knauf"): a kitchen cabinet 30 cm deep and 80 cm wide, suspended on two fasteners (one layer of gypsum board) can be safely loaded up to 50 kg. It is anywhere on an unprepared wall. The figures are much more interesting if you fix objects to rack profiles or with multi-layer frame cladding. Very heavy things (up to 150 kg) can be mounted on such walls if wooden or steel embedded elements are provided inside the partition. Boiler, cast iron radiator, ceramic washbasin - no problem. How to do it - we will tell below.
- Soundproofing. It is always possible to insert acoustic insulation materials between the bearing profiles. For a typical living space, the right rock wool will provide the best sound absorption of air waves among all partition options of the same thickness (insulation index 44 to 56 dB). Impact noise is localized by the use of damping pads under the guide rails. A properly assembled plasterboard partition does not "bunch", the profiles do not "rumble" when the interior door is closed. If you need to create a super-protected space, you can apply multi-layer lining, cladding with special panels, assemble a complex frame (two rows of racks). You cannot achieve the same results with an array.
- Moisture resistance. Moisture-resistant drywall works great in bathrooms, especially if covered with special mastic. Excellent performance is demonstrated by all kinds of cement-based water panels. If there are very unsuccessful neighbors upstairs, then the "green" GC can be applied throughout the apartment, and to protect the cotton wool from getting wet, the mats can be wrapped in polyethylene. The profiles for the subsystem are also not afraid of moisture, as they are galvanized.
- The presence of cavities. It is very convenient to carry out various engineering communications inside the frame partitions. This is a great way out for the kitchen and bathroom, where it is necessary to dilute the sewerage system, water supply, heating, and electrics. For the convenience of mounting tracks in metal racks, there is a special perforation, additional windows can be cut out with a grinder. Mortise electrical boxes and shields, plumbing boxes, etc. can be easily placed in the partition.
- Any configuration. Partitions of any shape are available: round, wave, with oblique corners, niches, arches, openings. Possible height up to 9.5 meters, length - not limited (only expansion joints are needed every 15 meters). The partition can be fixed to the suspended ceiling and to the sheathed walls (both along the frame and on mounting glue).
- Ingress protection. A topical issue in public spaces - offices, warehouses, classrooms, etc. The problem is effectively solved by the more frequent arrangement of racks (30 cm along the axes), multilayer cladding and screwing to the frame (immediately along the profiles or between the cladding layers) galvanized metal sheets with a thickness of 0.5-1 mm.
- Low cost. With traditional single-layer cladding, a plasterboard wall is about half the price of a brick one (with plastering) and about 15-20% compared to tongue-and-groove gypsum systems. This applies to both the cost of materials and installation prices.
- Ease of installation. Anyone can master the technology, it is much easier than sheathe walls or ceilings. The fact is that there is no need to expose the frame along the threads, which is usually a real stumbling block for beginners. Although the installation is scheduled by the developers inside and out, in fact, frame GKL partitions forgive their builders a lot of shortcomings and mistakes. Cracks and flat drops on partitions are very rare. And yet, from a power tool, you only need a screwdriver and, possibly, a light puncher. The construction speed is record-breaking. Two qualified people (a master installer and an assistant) will easily assemble the frame and sew a partition with an area of about 15-20 m 2 in an eight-hour shift.
Technology for the construction of plasterboard partitions
It is best to start installation after the subfloor is installed (it is easier to mark out the contours on good planes) - although technologically wet and dry screeds can be done after the partitions. As we have already said, the wall frames can be fixed to the ceilings and walls sewn with gypsum boards. In other words, there are no restrictions in this regard. One person can erect the frame of the partition and make the cladding, but the marking has to be done together, since the chopping cord and plumb line are commonly used. The most productive work will be in the link master + assistant.
Markup
To take out the dimensions and location of the partitions from the drawings in nature, as a rule, they are repelled from some kind of load-bearing wall. If our frame runs parallel, we simply put off two points for the required distance and connect them, it is a little more difficult to achieve perpendicularity. Very short partitions can be marked with a large square, or if you attach a sheet of drywall in place.
However, for large structures, errors from hand tools can be critical, and it is better to use a laser tool (square, builder). A good way to get an accurate right angle is to draw an Egyptian triangle, in which the mutually perpendicular sides are multiples of 3 and 4, and the diagonal is 5.
We recommend making marking lines for plasterboard partitions with a chopping cord, a tracer. First, the contours of the partition are measured and marked on the floor, and only then they are transferred to the ceiling, although in some manuals they suggest doing the opposite. When working with the tracer, be very careful that the cord does not cling to anything, be sure to carefully sweep the floor.
Now, using a plumb line, we transfer our markings to the ceiling. For each line, it is necessary to have two risks, which we will also connect with a tracer. One person presses the plumb line to the ceiling and, at the command of the assistant, smoothly displaces it until the point is aligned with the bottom line. Anyone who corrects the weighing at the floor should carefully stop the cone with his fingers, preventing it from swinging. When everything has come together, a mark is placed on the axis of the thread.
It is interesting that some installers mark the ceiling from the already drilled profile, but the PN shelves are often bent somewhere, which significantly distorts the picture.
At this stage, we propose to immediately mark the points on the floor that indicate the edges of the doorway, if any. Most importantly, do not forget to leave a 20-30 mm margin, so that then an assembly gap of 10-15 mm on each side forms near the door block.
We strongly recommend (although very few people do this) with a tracer to connect the ceiling line to the floor line on the wall - at this stage this is done quickly and easily. This will give us a vertical layout to control the installation of the wall profile.
Assembling the frame
The width and length of the profiles used are selected depending on the required parameters of the partition. In most cases, the optimal width will be a frame made of PN-75 and PS-75 profiles, which, with single-layer sewing, form a wall 100 mm wide. It makes sense to apply the fifties profiles only if the cladding will be made in two layers.
Profile PN (guide profile or UW) must be pasted over with damper tape from below before installation. Also, for anti-vibration decoupling of partitions with enclosing structures, a sealant can be used, which is applied from the back side with two threads into special grooves.
We lay the prepared sections of PN along the marking lines and fix them through the mounting holes. Fastening to the mineral massif is made with dowels "quick installation" 6x40 mm - it is necessary to drill holes with a perforator. In hollow structures, holes are drilled with a drill and special expanding dowels are used. For metal and wooden bases, self-tapping screws with a press washer are used.
During fixation, in addition to control along the line, be sure to apply the rule to the PN from the side, since even a high-quality and wide profile can be easily bent with an arc. In the area of the doorway, the profiles are fixed with two dowels, you can install even more fasteners for reliability.
Attention! The installation of the guide profile on the floor should be done first of all so as not to fill up and not trample the marking line.
The vertical end profiles are inserted into the ceiling and floor guides. Sometimes here, by analogy with false walls, a PN is put, but it is more technologically advanced to apply a PS, since two guides superimposed on each other in the corners of the frame then slightly distort the plane. Then the extreme PSs are pressed against the wall, in accordance with the markings and with the obligatory use of the rule, they are fixed.
Now that the full perimeter of the partition is in place, you need to mark the installation points for the posts. The step of the PS (UW) profiles should be a multiple of the sheet width (1200 mm) - 30, 40, 60 cm along the axes. The first option is anti-burglary, the third is for ordinary walls in residential premises. The second step of 40 cm is the most common, it is also mandatory for arranging partitions that are tiled, as well as if three-layer sewing is used.
The marks along which the PS are installed in the design position are placed with the help of a tape measure on the shelves of the guide profile, and on both sides of it. Unlike the arrangement of false walls, these marks do not denote the centers of the rack-mount profiles, but their edges. We recommend that the first marks on the ceiling and on the floor be correlated with each other using a plumb line, and then measure the rest from them, so all the racks will become strictly vertical.
We procure PS-profiles piece by piece along the length and insert them into the guides. The length of the uprights should be 10 mm less than the height of the room at a particular point, for sagging slabs and in seismic zones this gap should be 20 mm. If utility lines run inside the partition, then insert the rack-mount profiles so that the perforation windows are opposite each other - then the route will run strictly horizontally.
Attention! The shelves of all substations must be oriented in one direction, with the exception of only one rack that forms the doorway.
The rack profiles are fixed to the PN shelves using punching pliers or self-tapping screws LN 9 mm with a drilling end. This is done on both sides of the partition, near the floor and near the ceiling.
The next step is to form the frame of the opening. If a door block is installed here, then the racks need reinforcement. For this, two PS profiles are assembled in a rectangular box. As an addition, a dry, even timber is inserted into it to the full height on one side of the 40 mm section (it will freely enter the box). After inserting the timber, the prefabricated element of the opening is scrolled with self-tapping screws LN from the side of the cladding and with self-tapping screws TN 25 - from the side of the opening (the wooden timber is attracted to the metal). If you use a perfectly prepared timber that will fill the PS from shelf to shelf, then there is no point in assembling a box-shaped structure to organize the opening.
A jumper should be installed between the posts at the required height (be sure to take into account the level to which the finished floor will rise, and make a margin of 2-2.5 cm above the door). The jumper is made of PN trim, which is cut in the form of a double-sided "stick". Also, the short parts of the "club" can be bent downward. We fasten this element strictly horizontally through the lugs to the posts, using four to five self-tapping screws on each side.
Short PS profiles are inserted between the lintel and the ceiling PN, they must be spaced from other frame elements with a predetermined pitch in order to ensure the joining of the sheathing sheets. It is also necessary to orient their shelves in the right direction.
Sheathing the subsystem with sheets
Cladding panels with long edges with a thinned edge must necessarily be joined in the middle of the upright profiles. The sheets are installed in the direction where the shelves of the PS profiles are looking, then the shelves will not bend under the action of the self-tapping screws. If the sheets are not enough in height to close the entire partition, then they must be installed with a spacing of the joints in height.
Plasterboard is placed in the design position and scrolled with TN self-tapping screws for metal with an interval of not more than 250 mm. From the edge of the short side, 15 mm should be removed, and from the edge of the thinned edge - at least 10 mm. At the joints of adjacent sheets, self-tapping screws should be spaced 10-20 mm apart. All fasteners are screwed in strictly at right angles to the frame so that the head sweep does not break through the top cardboard layer.
Attention! A gap of 7-10 mm should be maintained between the sheet and the enclosing structures, therefore, in the floor area, temporary lining of suitable thickness is used.
So that the short joints of the sheets are also on the metal, measured sections of the CD or PN / PS profiles are screwed to them between the posts. The screw-in self-tapping screws of the additional short sheet must not be strongly pressed on the jumper, so as not to tear it off the panel on which it is already fixed.
If the stitching is carried out in several layers, then the vertical joints of sheets of different tiers must be made on different racks.
A very important point is the docking of drywall on the opening. To avoid cracks, the sheet must always be wound on a short stand located above the door (at least 20 cm).
When the facing of the partition on one side is made, you can carry out the necessary communications, insert the embedded elements. It is convenient to use moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of 20-30 mm as inserts for heavy objects, OSB and dry timber can also be suitable. Plywood sheets of a suitable size are screwed with a large number of self-tapping screws through the body of the drywall (between the posts) in the specified places. The inserts for low weights (eg radiators) can be supported against the floor.
At this stage, a sound-insulating layer is placed in the cavity of the plasterboard wall, after which the frame is sewn on from the other side. Sheets entering the opening are cut off with a saw and a knife, the cut edges of all panels are sewn.
Attention! The joints of the sheets, which are sheathed on different sides of the partition, should not fall on the same bearing post.
Arrangement of corners and abutments
Docking of plasterboard partitions (T-shaped and angular) should be done only through a sheet of drywall. It is recommended to fasten the mating frame with self-tapping screws for metal (35 mm long) to the embedded post of the adjacent wall, therefore, additional PSs should be provided in the right places.
A tricky knot is an indirect angle. To organize it, the extreme profiles of the PS of the mating planes are installed in the guides as close as possible to each other, and then twisted on both sides of the corner with curved strips of galvanized metal with a thickness of 0.5 mm. The bandwidth must be sufficient to reach neighboring substations. The corner is tied to the full height of the seam.
Round plasterboard partition
To make a curved partition, the guide profile is cut with a grinder into sectors 5-10 cm wide. Along the outlined radius, the PN is fixed with a large number of fasteners - at least one dowel / self-tapping screw must be used for each sector.
Racks on roundings are inserted at intervals of not more than 300 mm and are fixed in the design position according to the general rules.
Radius sheathing can be done in three ways:
- Two layers of 6 mm thick arched plasterboard are placed horizontally. The conjugation of two-layer sheathing with flexible sheets and single-layer sheathing of the main partition must be brought out to the plane of the main wall.
- A 12.5 mm wall gypsum board panel is pricked with a needle roller, sprayed and deformed on a template, after which it is screwed horizontally (the minimum permissible radius is 1000 mm). Rolling is performed from the front side for the outer arc and from the back side of the sheet for the inner arc.
- A 12.5 mm wall sheet is cut into sectors with a width of about 5 cm (the remaining layer of paper cannot be damaged) and screwed vertically to the frame. Then the structure is pulled out with putty.
As you can see, the technology for manufacturing drywall partitions is quite simple. If you perform all the operations carefully and follow the rules we have indicated, you can assemble piers of any complexity, because this is just a constructor.
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A partition made of plasterboard makes it easy to divide one room into the required number of rooms. Since this work is not very difficult, any home craftsman with a minimum of basic skills can do it.
Required materials and their price
For a partition erected from plasterboard (gypsum plasterboard) for the purpose of zoning a room, first of all, you will need gypsum plasterboard sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm or more. Sheets of thinner thickness can be useful for sewing curved sections, if any.
The price of one sheet of plasterboard with a size of 1200 × 2500mm and a thickness of 12.5mm starts at 100 rubles and depends on the brand and type of material.
Types of drywall that can be used as part of the partition
To form the frame, the following metal profile elements are required:
- guide profile, which is a thin-walled channel, necessary for fixing the racks that form the partition;
The appearance of the guide profile
- rack profile, equipped with special locks in the form of bends and intended for fastening gypsum plasterboard sheets;
The elements of the rack profile are equipped with special bends
- corner profile required to protect drywall sheets from damage;
This is how the elements of the corner profile look
- arched profile, the need for which arises in the presence of curved shapes;
The design of the arched profile allows for easy shaping
- lighthouse profile, characterized by its T-shape and required during the alignment of the walls.
T-shaped beacon profile
All of these elements are sold in lengths from 2.75 to 6 m. It must be remembered that their thickness affects the strength of the finished partition and, of course, the price.
Development of a drawing of a plasterboard partition
To achieve the required level of strength, you should consider the design of the partition, which at the same time will allow you to determine the required amount of starting materials. The design diagram is carried out on the required scale. It reproduces the dimensions of the future partition and reflects the placement of drywall sheets. A horizontal lintel must be planned at each joint.
An example of a drawing of a partition created from drywall
The number of racks and their location is determined by the likely load that will be applied to the future wall.
Those places where it is planned to hang furniture structures or decorative elements must have additional reinforcement.
Installation of the partition frame
Frame installation process
To complete the work, the following materials and tools should be prepared, some of which we have already talked about earlier:
- roulette;
- level and plumb line;
- stationery knife;
- hammer;
- with dowels;
Work begins with markings on the floor, walls and ceiling. The elements of the guide profile are fixed according to this marking with a preliminary laying of a sealing tape under them.
The first post is placed directly against the wall, and the rest are installed in increments:
- 1200 mm, if no objects will be suspended on the partition;
- 400 mm if you plan to hang shelves or cabinets.
The racks are fastened in the guides using a cutter.
Plasterboard sheathing
Sheathing the frame with plasterboard
Fixing the gypsum board is performed using self-tapping screws with a length of 25 mm, and their laying should be carried out according to a previously developed scheme. Self-tapping screws along the edges of the sheets are screwed in with a step of 150-200mm, and in the middle - 300mm.
Having sheathed one side, cotton wool or polystyrene and the necessary communications are placed in the partition. After that, the second side is cladding.
How to equip a doorway in a plasterboard partition
If there should be a door in the partition, then work must begin with the arrangement of the doorway.
The best option is to install a wooden beam in the cavity of the profile elements that form the doorway. The timber is fastened to the profile with screws.
A doorway created with a wooden beam
If the use of a wooden beam is not possible, then the supporting column can be reinforced with a guide profile.
Finishing the plasterboard partition
After finishing the installation, the plasterboard partition must be prepared for exterior decoration. For this:
- at the joints, the serpyanka tape is strengthened and sealed with putty;
- outer corners are reinforced with a perforated corner profile;
- the caps of the screws are covered with putty.
After that, the entire surface of the gypsum board sheets is putty and sanded. At the end of all the above operations, the partition is completely ready for the type of finishing that will allow it to fit into the overall interior of the apartment.
Do-it-yourself partition made of drywall: video
From the above, we can conclude that it is quite possible to equip the plasterboard partition on our own. To make it easier for you to complete this task, we suggest watching the following video:
The modern choice of finishing materials allows you to easily carry out repairs of any complexity in your own apartment or house. The main thing is that the necessary set of tools and detailed instructions are available.
Delimiting space in a room has long ceased to be a problem, since you can easily make a simple plasterboard partition with your own hands. Drywall is a fairly affordable and easy-to-work material. It has a lot of pluses and practically no minuses.
- Light weight.
- Low price.
- Ease of processing.
- Good soundproofing.
- Lack of "wet" and dirty work during installation.
- Variability of the finish of the outer layer.
- A frame that allows the laying of any communications.
Plasterboard structures of any configuration are usually mounted on a metal profile. It is impractical to use a wooden frame structure: the tree rots, deforms over time, working with it requires additional efforts and the presence of a special tool. And the cost of wooden bars is not lower than a metal profile.
Other required materials
- Sealing tape.
- Reinforcing tape for bonding seams.
- Self-tapping screws for metal.
- Self-tapping screws with a press washer.
- Dowel nails.
- Putty for sealing joints between drywall sheets.
- Acrylic based primer.
- Plasterboard sheets 12-14 mm thick.
What is the profile for drywall
Conventional and familiar ceiling siding profiles cannot be used for plasterboard installations. They are too fragile and unreliable. For drywall, special fittings are used: reinforced guides and rack metal profiles. The runner hardware is used to secure drywall to ceilings or walls. There are 4 markings of the guide profiles, depending on the thickness of the material. The thinnest are 50 by 40 mm, the widest are 100 by 40 mm. The length is the same for all sizes - 3 meters.
Rack fittings are also divided into 4 types: from 50 to 50 mm to 100 to 50 mm. As you can see from the markings, the widest profile is the strongest and most reliable. The length of the rack profile varies from 3 to 4 meters. The rack profile, from which the vertical frame of the plasterboard partition is formed, is not recommended to be extended in length, otherwise the structure will not have sufficient strength.
Tools that are required for the construction of a plasterboard partition
After all the necessary tools and materials have been purchased, you should carefully consider the future design of the partition and its location in the room.
Exactly such marks are made on the second wall. They must match. You can check the accuracy of the markings as follows: you need to draw a straight line along the floor from one mark on the wall to the second. If the lines match, then the marking is applied correctly. Along these lines, the plasterboard partition will be attached to the wall and to the floor.
The marks on the ceiling are measured in the same way. It is important that the line on the floor is strictly perpendicular to the markings on the ceiling. In this case, the future partition will not tilt or skew in any direction.
After the markup has been applied, you can start installing the profile on the walls, floor and ceiling. A guide fittings are screwed onto the ceiling. A rack-mount profile is attached to the walls and floor.
A rubberized sealing tape is placed between the wall and the profile. This material is intended for tight coupling of load-bearing wall structures with a partition. Also, the sealing tape acts as a buffer when the temperature and humidity climate in the room changes, due to which the plasterboard structure may shrink or expand slightly. The tape will protect it from cracks and deformation.
To get into a room fenced off by a partition, you need a passage, under which profiles are specially mounted. If you plan to insert the door into the partition structure, then the doorway needs to be reinforced. This can be done in several ways.
- Insert into each other and fasten the rack profiles.
- Insert a wooden bar inside the profile.
- Reinforce the profile with a steel frame.
- Place two rack profiles side by side.
According to experts, the first method is the most optimal, but only if the intended door is made of lightweight materials, and the estimated weight does not exceed 45 kg. For heavier door leaves, it is recommended to purchase a special reinforced post profile, the thickness of which exceeds 2 mm.
Under the doorway, you need to leave the desired width (size of the canvas) and add another 8 cm to the existing size, for the door frame.
After the door profile is exposed, the upper lintel is exposed and fastened between them.
The next step is to reinforce the structure with reinforced rack profiles. From the mounted doorway, a vertical crate is made of fittings, from floor to ceiling, a step of 40-50 cm. After the completion of the work, a kind of cage is obtained, with a vertically attached profile.
It's important to know
It is required to mount rack profiles in a specific order: the stiffening rib should be directed in the direction from which the plasterboard cladding of the frame will begin. This is due to the fact that the first sheets of drywall need to be fastened from the side of the rib, the subsequent ones - to the rest of the rack profile. If you do not follow the recommended frame sheathing technology, the partition will turn out to be convex or deformed.
If you plan to lay communications (electrical wires, computer and television cables), it is desirable that the holes for the wires are at the same level.
If you plan to hang a picture or a lamp on the partition, then a transverse lintel from the profile must be installed in the metal frame in advance. The place of the jumper should be marked in order to further attach the accessory to the profile using self-tapping screws.
The width of the baffle can be varied. The thinnest partition consists of a single frame. If a stronger and more reliable structure is required, then the profile can be mounted in several layers. Thanks to this, the soundproofing and heat-saving performance of the partition can be improved.
Facing the erected frame from the profile with plasterboard
Rules for cutting sheet material
When attaching the material to a metal profile, the sheet should be less than the height of the walls and 1 cm away from the floor. When cutting the facing material, make sure that the cardboard and gypsum core are cut off with a special knife for cutting drywall. This will save the material from cracking and breakage during cutting into fragments of the required size.
It is advisable to process the edges with a roughing plane, then using an edge plane, a chamfer is cut out at the ends, having an angle of 20-22 degrees.
It is worth knowing that the sheets can only be joined on a metal profile, therefore, when cutting drywall, you should take into account the step between the rack fittings.
The sheets obtained after cutting are attached to the metal profile using self-tapping screws, at least 3 cm long.It is necessary to screw the screws to the profile after 15-20 cm; on the jumpers and joints of the sheets, this distance can be reduced to 10 cm.It is also impossible to fasten the screws near the very edge of the sheet , optimally 15 mm from the edge.
When attaching the facing material, it is not necessary to sink the caps of the self-tapping screws into the drywall too much, maximum by 1 mm. The sunken caps can be putty in the future.
After one side of the partition is lined with plasterboard, you can proceed with the installation of soundproofing material and laying communications inside the structure.
Communication wires are routed through special holes in the metal profile.
For sound insulation, you can use mineral wool, polystyrene foam, expanded polystyrene, isover. Each type of material has a whole range of useful properties, for example, expanded polystyrene can be used in rooms with high humidity.
For soundproofing the partition, the material is cut into fragments and placed inside the sections from the profile. It is important to choose a material of a certain thickness that will not bulge out due to the edges of the metal profile. After placing the soundproofing material, you can proceed to facing the second side of the partition.
After the construction of a plasterboard structure, it is required to give it a presentable look. For this, a layer of primer is applied to the surface of the material, which will protect the wall from moisture and corrosion.
After priming, the drywall is putty, leveling all the irregularities, hiding the fastener caps, seams. A putty is applied to the seams between the sheets, leveled, then, while it is not dry, a reinforcing tape is attached to the putty upstairs and sunk with a spatula.
Video - Installation of a large partition in a private house
It is worth knowing that if the plasterboard partition is covered with wallpaper, then its surface must be completely putty. This is due to the fact that seams can show through through thin wallpaper and spoil the entire look of the structure. There is another reason: the surface of the material is made of cardboard. If you stick wallpaper on cardboard, then after a while nothing can be removed. We'll have to glue the new wallpaper on top of the old one.
Do not use facade plaster for interior work. This material can release toxic substances and be harmful to health.
For the construction of a partition in places with unstable humidity and temperature indicators, it is recommended to use special sheets of drywall. They are colored green and have good moisture resistance. Tiles can be laid on this material.
Video - Installation of a plasterboard partition from KNAUF
the wall for some families becomes the only way out. Children grow up, and only a few can buy new housing. How to make separate rooms for children? Do not lay out the same wall in the middle of the apartment. They will make a do-it-yourself solution, the step-by-step instructions for the manufacture of which will be discussed in today's article. Let's try to understand how difficult it is to do this kind of work on our own: from selection to finishing. Let's figure out how to lay electrical wiring in the partitions and provide sound insulation so that the room becomes complete.
We have already talked about dividing the room into two parts. However, a baffle will be needed in other cases as well. It can be a semblance made according to the same principle, or perhaps a decorative plasterboard for decorating a woman's boudoir. Consider the advantages and disadvantages of GCR partitions.
Positive and negative qualities of plasterboard walls
Installation of drywall partitions is so simple that a home craftsman can handle this work without such experience. You just need to know some of the nuances that we will try to highlight today. Of the advantages of working with such material, in addition to ease of installation, it is possible to note the low cost of time and money. GKL is not expensive, except for well-known brands. It allows you to bring to life many of the most daring ideas, it can be bent, if necessary. For example, a drywall doorway when installing interior partitions can be made in the form of an arch or traditional.
The disadvantage of the material is its susceptibility to mechanical damage. It is easy to break on impact. Also, the soundproofing qualities are poor. To ensure them, additional work will be required. One should not hope that massive objects will be possible later. To ensure such an installation, it is necessary to lay stiffeners in the right places, reinforcing the structure.
Important information! When installing partitions, you should not hope that the room is dry. At any time, the neighbors from above can flood, which will lead to rather unpleasant consequences and unnecessary costs. It is better to purchase a more expensive moisture resistant material. This will not completely eliminate its swelling, but it will significantly reduce the damage.
What material is required to make a drywall partition with your own hands
The GKL partition consists of a frame that gives the main strength and plasterboard sheathing. The frame is made from a metal profile, wooden blocks or a combination of both materials. Also, dowel-nails are used to attach the guides to, and and, with which the jumpers and gypsum boards are attached to them.
Drywall sheets can be divided into types:
- Standard- gray color, blue marking. The most common material. Subdivided into (slightly thinner and tougher) and wall;
- Moisture resistant- green color, blue marking. Do not think that he is not at all afraid of moisture, yet gypsum is hygroscopic, but more resistant to moisture;
- Refractory- pink color, red marking. and high temperatures.
Related article:
GVL, GKLV and other types, their characteristics, sizes and areas of application - we will talk about all this in full detail in this publication. We will also consider how GVL and GKL differ and for which work it is better to use each of the options.
Optimal thickness of drywall partitions
The thickness of the gypsum board for the interior partition depends on the purpose of the wall. If it is a decorative false wall, the minimum sheet thickness will be 12.5 mm. If a full-fledged partition is planned, in which installation or various souvenirs is possible, then some calculations will be required:
- If the load is 40 ÷ 50 kg / m², you need a sheet with a thickness of at least 15 mm;
- Over 70 kg / m² provides for the use of double sheets, and reinforcement of the frame structure.
When sheathing the frame, you should not make the joints of gypsum plasterboard sheets of opposite walls at the same level. This will lead to a weakening of the structure and the appearance of cracks at the seams. But the choice of gypsum board is not the most important thing in such an installation. Before you make a plasterboard partition in a room, you should understand which metal profile to choose for one purpose or another.
The main types of partitions: features and markings
| Image | Construction type | Options | Some characteristics |
 | S111 | Weight of 1 m³ is equal to 28 kg, recommended height - up to 8 m | Single frame made of galvanized steel profile, which is sheathed on both sides with sheets of waterproof plasterboard in one layer. The inside is filled in the form of mineral wool. It is used as partitions in rooms with low requirements for sound insulation and fire resistance. The thickness of the partition depends on the dimensions of the profile and the gypsum board. |
 | C112 | Weight 1 m³ - 53 kg, height 4 ÷ 9 m | Single metal frame with two-layer plasterboard cladding on both sides. The filler is mineral wool. The design provides high sound insulation characteristics and fire resistance (up to 1.25 hours). It is used for redevelopment or capital construction. |
 | S113 | Height up to 9.5 m. Weight 1m³ - 78 kg | A single frame is sheathed on both sides with sheets of waterproof plasterboard in three layers. By increasing the number of layers of gypsum board, sound insulation is increased. |
 | S115.1 | Height - 6.5 m, weight 1 m³ - 57 kg | Double frame, sheathed with gypsum board in two layers. Along with strength, it has excellent fire resistance indicators. |
| S115.2 | Weight 1 m³ - 69 kg. Height up to 9 m | In addition to the two-layer cladding, the double frame is divided by an additional sheet of drywall (spaced frame). Due to this, strength increases, as well as thermal insulation properties. Mineral wool slabs are laid inside. | |
 | S116 | Height 4.5 - 6.5 m, weight 1 m³ - 61 kg. Minimum wall thickness 220 mm | Double metal frame, sheathed with two layers of drywall is convenient for. Fire resistance - 1.25 hours. Sound insulation up to 50 dB. |
 | S118 | Weight 1 m³ - 86 kg. Height up to 9 m | Partition of the class "Protection of the premises from penetration". Made according to type C113 with a single metal frame, sheathed with a three-layer plasterboard coating. A feature of the product is galvanized steel sheets, 0.5 mm thick, inserted between the gypsum board, which significantly increases the strength and fire resistance of the structure. It is most optimal for creating a plasterboard partition with a door in the warehouse. |
 | S121 | Weight 1 m³ - 32 kg. Height up to 3.1 m | The frame is made of wood with a moisture content of 12% and sheathed on both sides with one layer of gypsum board. |
 | S122 | Weight of 1 m³ - about 57 kg. Height up to 3.1 m | Two-layer "upholstery" of the GKL wooden frame. The insulating material of the partition is made of mineral fiber boards. The advantages are high strength and good sound insulation. |
Related article:
What materials can be used for manufacturing, how to choose the shape of the partition and expert advice on its installation - read all this and much more in this material.
Profile types for GKL partitions
To assemble a frame for an interior plasterboard partition, you will need three types of profiles - rack, guides (main) and lintels.
Guides - U-shaped profile with standard dimensions in width - 5; 6.5; 7.5 and 10 cm. Height - 4 or 4.5 cm. The main (guide) profiles are attached to the ceiling and walls, giving the structure stability. Marking - PN or UW.
Rack elements are labeled as PS or CW. The dimensions in height and width are identical, because they must be inserted into one another. But the length of the rack-mount profiles is more varied. If the guides are produced in 3 m each, then the rack ones can also be 3.5 or 4 m. The reason for this was that the racks cannot be built up - this harms the strength of the frame structure.
Lintels are made independently from any type of profile and serve to increase the strength of the frame. Typically, scraps left over from rack or main elements are used. The method of bending (internal or external) depends on the wishes of the master, but the internal one is more durable.
Methods of soundproofing walls made of gypsum plasterboard
The most common method of soundproofing (as well as) walls made of gypsum board is the gasket between the cladding of mineral wool or foam. The denser and thicker this layer is, the better the wall or sound.
Do-it-yourself drywall partitions: step-by-step instructions for the main steps
Installation of a gypsum plasterboard wall is carried out in several stages. But first you need to figure out which one you may need for work.
First, one side is sewn up, and after filling the voids with mineral wool, the other Partition mounting tool
In addition to the main tool (punch, drill, etc.), you will need a GCR knife. With it, you can cut parts of the desired size. This is done as follows. Having marked the sheet, we apply a metal profile and draw the knife several times along the strip, cutting the surface as deeply as possible. We break the rest. It is not difficult, even a schoolboy can handle the job. The cut is leveled with a plane on the gypsum board or with the same knife so that the joint is as even as possible.
Need to know! There is no need to fit the slabs perfectly, because all imperfections will be covered with a putty when finishing. But before you make a drywall wall, you should practice on an unnecessary cut.
Calculation of consumables for a wall made of gypsum plasterboard
It is not difficult to calculate the required amount of GCR. It depends on the layers of the wall, and we will not dwell on it. But calculate the carrier profile more difficult. Calculations are made according to the formula Q = (P / 0.6 + 4) × K if the wall is less than 3 m high, and Q = ((P / 0.6 + 4) × H / 3) + P × K , if the wall height is more than 3 m, where:
- Q - the number of the bearing profile;
- K - coefficient for waste;
- P - the perimeter of the room;
- 0,6 - the value of the pitch of the racks in meters;
- 4 - the number of racks indicated in pieces that must be installed in the corners of the room.
However, there are also supporting elements of the frame. We perform calculations as follows. We divide the perimeter of the future wall by 3 (the height of one profile), and then multiply it by the overrun coefficient. For different areas, it is different, and is 1.075 for an area over 20 m 2, 1.175 for an area from 10 to 20 m 2 and 1.275 if the area is less than 10 m 2.
Frame installation: starting work
First, we will analyze the stages of work, how to make a plasterboard partition, superficially, and then we will try to understand all the technology in the photo examples in detailed step-by-step instructions. First of all, using a laser level, we mark the location of the main profiles - they are the basis of the future wall. In addition to fixing the dowel-nails to the walls and ceiling, we fix the profiles to each other with a special breakdown or self-tapping screws.
Having completed this work, we move on to the racks. If it is planned, then we install wooden bars in the rack profiles around it - they will add strength to the structure.
Good to know! If the wall is small, then horizontal bars can be dispensed with. If the dimensions are large, then the jumpers will have to be installed.
Before making a partition in the room, cutouts are made in the main profiles for wiring, into which it is dragged. After the main frame is assembled, one side of the partition is closed. In this case, drywall is attached throughout the entire area, not excluding the future doorway. It is much more convenient to cut it out later.
Having closed one side of the wall, on which sockets and switches will be installed, and having cut through the doorway, we install glasses for electrical fittings, stretch cables through them and fill the free space with mineral wool, which will provide noise and heat insulation. It remains to close the wall on the back of the gypsum board and cut through the doorway again.
Now let's look at how a drywall wall is mounted with our own hands in step-by-step instructions with photo examples.
Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for installing a GKL partition
| Illustration | Action being performed |
 | First, we measure the length of the main profiles and cut to the desired length. To do this, you can use metal scissors or a grinder. When working with a grinder, do not forget about protective glasses. |
 | Holes are cut in the lower profile for pulling cables (in our case, they go under the floor). |
 | The main profile is laid according to the pre-made markings and is attached to the floor. The cables are routed through the prepared holes. |
 | The same actions are performed with the upper profile and with the guides along the walls. |
 | This is how the main profile is attached if there is a doorway directly against the wall. |
 | We install a wooden block in the profile along the door jamb, which is attached to self-tapping screws. It will give strength to the structure and door hinges. |
 | The profiles are fastened to each other with self-tapping screws or by means of a special device - a breakdown. |
 | Be sure to check the position of each rack and rail with a mounting level. This will give you confidence that the wall will turn out flat, without tilting. |
 | We begin to sew up the plasterboard frame, along with the doorway. This is much more convenient than fastening the sheets in pieces. |
 | We coat all the seams of the first layer with putty and level. This will provide better heat and sound insulation. |
 | We proceed to cut the door. Here, breaking the sheet will not work, and therefore you will have to cut it completely, to its full thickness. In our case, this is 12.5 mm. |
 | We proceed to fastening the second layer of drywall. This time the sheets are shifted 60 cm, overlapping the first seam. |
 | Having closed one side in 2 layers, mark the location of the sockets and drill them with a wood crown ... |
 | … After which we mount the glasses and lead the cables into them. |
 | On the reverse side, we proceed to laying the insulation - mineral wool. It fills all the free space. |
 | The final result of insulation looks like this. It remains to close the second side of the wall. |
 | After completing this work and cutting through the doorway again, we get the following picture. But we still have one more blank wall not mounted. |
 | We assemble the frame from a metal profile in the same way ... |
 | ... and sew it up with drywall. All joints should be as smooth and neat as possible. |
 | Finally, we will close the ends of the metal profile, after which we can proceed to the finishing of the mounted wall. |
How to bend the gypsum board for mounting an arched passage
This work is quite simple to do. We cut the strip to size and put it on the floor, using a knife and a ruler, make transverse cuts every centimeter along the entire length. After the steps taken, the strip will easily bend and position itself as needed. It becomes clear that the question of how to make a drywall partition with your own hands is not so difficult.
Tsugunov Anton Valerievich
Reading time: 5 minutes
Installing a plasterboard partition in an apartment is the best solution for dividing the interior space. Due to its versatility, this material is in high demand and popularity in the field of apartment renovation. The options for its use are very diverse, but most often drywall is used for the construction of partitions with their subsequent decorative finishing.
Such structures are distinguished by an attractive appearance, ease of installation and the possibility of doing it yourself. And the opening design possibilities allow you to make the overall appearance of the apartment original, individual, stylish and extremely attractive.
The rigidity of the partition with plasterboard cladding is given by a frame made of wooden or metal profiles. In the presence of clear step-by-step instructions, the necessary materials and tools, its construction will also not take much time and effort.
Price
How much does a plasterboard partition cost? If you decide to contact a specialist, the construction of a partition without soundproofing with gypsum board sheathing in one layer will cost you, taking into account the cost of materials, 900–1100 rubles. for 1 sq. m in Moscow and 800-900 rubles. for 1 sq. m in St. Petersburg. The cost of a two-layer partition with noise and heat insulation will be from 1800 to 2100 rubles. for 1 sq. m in the capital and from 1200 rubles. for 1 sq. m in St. Petersburg.
If you plan to mount the partition yourself, it will cost you 2 times cheaper.
Where do we start?
Before you start installing a drywall partition with your own hands in the selected room, you need to carefully consider the future design, complete the basic drawing. It does not require specific knowledge and calculations from you, but it should reflect all the necessary parameters to the smallest detail.
- Let's start by reflecting on paper the dimensions of the room chosen for the partition in the selected format.
- We draw the place of the desired location of the future internal plasterboard partition.
- Similarly, we carry out the front drawing of the partition, reflecting the supporting structures and lintels.
- Determining the planned loads on the partition being performed using drywall during its operation will help to calculate the number of future racks. Additionally, keep in mind that the edges of the sheets of material are attached to different frame profiles. This will make it possible to evenly distribute the load over the entire plane of the frame, taking into account all the decorative elements used. You may decide to make a wall with drywall shelves.
What materials and tools will be needed
For the manufacture of a plasterboard partition, first of all, the construction of a rigid frame will be required. It is made from a 75 mm wide galvanized profile with additional elements and wooden blocks. You will need the latter to increase the rigidity of the structure in certain areas. The sheathing of the partition is made with standard sheets of 12.5 mm thickness, which are fixed with self-tapping screws. Soundproof material is laid between the gypsum board.
In addition to the materials listed, you will need your own or rented tool:
- or a drill with an appropriate attachment.
- Laser or hydro level. The first option is preferable, since it will greatly simplify and speed up your work on creating a partition, and will allow you to qualitatively beat off vertical and horizontal levels.
- Five- or ten-meter tape measure.
- Plumb line.
The process of arranging a partition using drywall can be conditionally divided into several stages, including:
- installation of a doorway;
- sheathing of the GKL partition;
- finishing.
Create the basis for the partition frame
Using drawing tools and a level on the ceiling and floor surfaces, we make markings, noting where the partition will be.
- We fix the guide profile to the floor with self-tapping screws.
- We insert vertical guides with a step of half a meter into the profile located on the floor, we fix them strictly vertically to the walls. At the joints of the profiles, to fasten them together, we use self-tapping screws or a cutter.
- Using a plumb line, we mount the guiding profile of the future partition on the ceiling.
As a result, having installed 4 profiles, we get a rectangular frame, which will serve as the basis for the future frame.
Making a doorway in the partition
If the design of the partition provides for a swing door, care should be taken to provide space in the frame for mounting the door block. The walls of the structure must be rigid enough to withstand the anticipated load.
Strengthening the profile with dry, straight wooden beams will help to give rigidity to the profile.
To install a doorway in the partition, we perform the following steps:
- We trim the rack profile to the required height, reinforce it with a wooden bar inserted inside.
- We install the finished structure inside the upper (ceiling) and lower (floor) guide profile so that the width is the same in the upper and lower parts of the opening. We check the verticality of the racks with a level, and fix them with self-tapping screws.
- To make a crossbeam, we cut out a piece of the rack profile corresponding to the width of the future doorway. We also strengthen it with a wooden bar.
- We set the transverse profile strictly horizontally to the required height.
The cross bar can be installed in two ways:
- Fasten the trims of the guides, corresponding to the width of the rack profile, on both reinforced racks, insert the prepared crossbar into them and fix.
- At the rack profile, which will serve as a crossbar, cut out the middle part, leaving the "antennae" for which it will be attached to the racks.
Important! In both cases, it is recommended to use a cutter when connecting the profile. This will help ensure a snug fit of the gypsum board and avoid "humps" from the screws on the surface of the partition.
Using nails, we fasten the wooden structures inserted into the profile.
Installation of uprights
We mount the rack profile, taking into account the standard width of the gypsum board (120 cm), there are 3 racks per sheet.
Since it is better to start the installation of whole sheets of drywall from the center, this makes it possible to most effectively "hide" the cutting points, then the installation of the racks is carried out accordingly - from the door to the walls. We check the verticality of each of the vertical profiles with a level.
Harness and horizontal beams
The connection of vertical post profiles with horizontal beams will add rigidity to the entire structure. The installation step is usually taken about 75 cm.
- Depending on the pitch of the uprights, we cut pieces of the upright profile of a suitable size.
- After assembling the frame, we lay the wiring wires (for this, the manufacturer provides special holes in the profiles).
Important! We place the wiring wires in the corrugated tube without fail.
