It's time ... It's time to start visiting all sorts of different shops and shops selling roots, bulbs, fertilizers, secateurs! Although, what am I talking about? Probably, already half of the usable area of ​​​​the balcony is bought for future use and waiting to be sent to the dacha.

And what is there in this dense pile: film, agrospan, mulch, coconut briquettes, props ... Yes, you never know what turned up useful for the long winter months, you can’t remember everything. And how many more different pounds and bags are hiding in the secluded corners of the apartment, in the bookshelves, in the far corners of the cabinets.

This is a necessary measure, because I'm tired of catching the mocking glances of relatives, or listening to advice that it would be better to buy something more practical, aesthetic and pretty.

And now the most pleasant moment has come - you can start buying future inhabitants of your gardens. Everyone has different tastes, to predict what you want to buy is a very small probability, but you can still think about how to save what you bought before landing in the ground.

And this is our main task, however, only the third, because the first task is to choose the best, and the second is to stop in time in the “grab-buying” process.

Sometimes insomnia overcomes me, if by the night I suddenly remember inopportunely how much I managed to buy and how many seats I have ready.

So, lily bulbs. Having chosen the largest, cleanest and strongest lily bulbs, even if for this you have to turn over the whole box if they are in a package or torture the seller if they are in bulk, we bring the prey home. On the way, we convulsively recall whether we have Maxim or brilliant green, sphagnum, coconut flakes, simple newspapers and bags.

By the way, about bags. You can collect apple bags, lately perforated bags have often come across, they are clean, only a sticker with a weight, but you can also use it - write something you need.

First of all, we once again inspect the lily bulbs. Then there are several options:

You can immediately pickle the bulbs in "Maxim", dry them, wrap them in sphagnum, a newspaper (be sure to sign !!!) and put everything in a perforated bag and in the refrigerator, in the vegetable box, and so that the temperature is from 0 to +3 C.

You can check the onions, anoint doubtful places with brilliant green, wrap in a newspaper, in a bag, in the refrigerator. Then you can hold it in "Maxim" already before landing in the ground, and if the lily bulbs are wilted, then also in "Epin".

But these are already worries about landing, and we are talking about conservation. In both options 1 and 2, the newspaper needs to be slightly sprinkled with water.

Once a week or less, this is how patience is enough, the bulbs must be checked.

In this way, packed lilies can lie for a long time, which is good. Who else can endure “preliminary confinement” in a refrigerator chamber without harm?!

The most persistent hostas and daylilies. They can safely lie in the refrigerator for a long time, even if sprouts have appeared. It is necessary to plant them in the ground if the leaves of the host are trying to turn around, and daylilies when the sprout reaches a length of 15 cm or more.

After planting, put it on a bright but cool window, or on a glazed balcony, cover it for the night (some with bottles, some with milk bags, some just twisting pounds from newspapers) and on top of what is - lutrasil, a thin old sheet.

But, of course, placing pots on the balcony largely depends on the temperature outside the window. Be sure to put the pots on something, and not just on a cold stone floor. Of course, what began to grow on the balcony can only get into the open ground when the leaves of the country plantations are the same as those of the home ones. You can't plant before!

If the purchased roots are in the supplier's packaging - in a bag, with perforation, with peat or sphagnum, then these bags should also be periodically removed and checked: if the peat is very dry, then you can lightly spray the peat with a syringe, shaking the bag slightly, evenly distribute and lay again in the refrigerator, in the vegetable drawer.

bearded irises overexposed in the refrigerator is also good, but they should be kept dry rather than wet.

Tradescantia unpretentious and grows well on the windowsill. If it stretches out very much, you need to cut it off and put the shoots in water - it takes root perfectly.

The most capricious when overexposure - Siberian and Japanese irises, phloxes, hellebores, poppies, speedwells, mekonopsis, anemones. Just look, they will rot, and there are usually few roots, and they are thin.

They can be washed in a solution of "Maxim" (in fact, this is not harmful to everyone), immediately planted in pots with light soil and barely watered, be sure to dry the soil between waterings, just so that they do not dry out. For many of them, if planted and left warm, only the leaves will grow, and the root will sleep. The leaves eat up all the stocks, and everything is thrown away money, the plant died. So, be sure to choose a place that is cold + 10-15 and below, make sure that mold does not appear.

And in general, if there is a balcony or loggia, where the temperature is about +10, then you can buy almost everything. And, if it starts to germinate strongly and quickly, plant it on the balcony.

If the rastyushki-roots lay in the refrigerator until warm and remained dormant, then in late April - early May, everything can be planted in the ground.

Of course, it is better to start with something that is easy and simple to store, but if you really want to, then you can buy and go out a lot.

One more moment. Surely on March 8 someone will be brought flowers as a gift, but not simple ones, but, knowing your passion for gardening, in a pot: miniature rose, primrose or gerbera. And this is even wonderful, because they, too, can then be planted in the garden!

What are your actions in this case? We thank the donor, digress from all affairs and deal with the gift. We get the earth, drainage, breed "Epin". We quickly equip a workplace on the kitchen table - a newspaper, scissors, a pot.

Gently and carefully (a gift after all!) We shake out our flower from a purchased pot, shake off ALL the earth from the roots, cut the roots, soak them in Epin.

It is necessary to try to wash off all those remnants of peat on the roots that could not be shaken off. Otherwise, poor flowers are planted in bare peat with phyto-additives of such concentration and power that the plant does not have enough strength to live for a long time. After all, the main task of sellers is to expel them by the deadline and sell them in bloom, but no one thinks about the long-term preservation of the life of a flower.

By the way, if you plant a rose in the ground, then don’t expect to get a miniature - this is a lottery, but it’s so exciting!

While the roots are in Epin, we are preparing a drainage pot, earth. We plant in our own pot, with fresh soil, and in the summer it will be possible to plant our flower in the garden. Miniature roses, petunias, primroses can be planted in this way in open ground. Gerberas are purely domestic flowers. They should be left on the windowsill.

In February, garden centers are already receiving planting material from Europe. There, spring begins earlier, and plants can be planted in the garden. And what about us? The best thing to do is to forego early purchases and wait until our garden shows are open and seedlings from local nurseries go on sale. But sellers of planting material are well aware of the psychology of an amateur gardener. Love for plants is a “disease”, and we simply cannot refuse to buy another seedling, especially when it can be held in our hands, especially when it is in such a colorful package! Sometimes we ourselves do not notice how we buy plants and “come to our senses” only when we bring them home. Winter outside. What to do with them before landing in April?

In the language of gardeners, the storage of planting material when purchased early is called "overexposure." Different types of plants require different conditions.

Consider what is now on sale and how to save it if you could not resist buying.

VISUAL INSPECTION

To begin with, any planting material must be removed from the package and carefully examined. In a store, through a bag and a layer of peat, it can be difficult to see damage and small pockets of decay.

If they are found, then measures must be taken immediately: darkened roots, broken tubers cut to healthy tissue. Burn small specks of rot with a strong solution of potassium permanganate or brilliant green, or put the whole plant in a fungicide solution. After that, decide what to do with the plant: store it in the refrigerator or plant it in a pot.

For storage, do not use the old package in which you bought the plant!

TO EACH HIS OWN

So what can you buy in February. BULB CROPS: gladioli, acidantera, lilies, tigridia and others (photo 1). It's easier with them. Most of them just need to be put in the refrigerator (after inspection). Check from time to time, as gladioli and lilies may begin to sprout and the sprouts will be crooked.

If the bulbs begin to grow, you need to put them in a box so that the sprouts look up. At low temperatures, the growth process can be slowed down. However, this is not always possible. Most often, lilies wake up early, and the sprout begins to grow uncontrollably. Then there is only one way out - to plant in a pot, and - on the windowsill!

TUBERS - dahlias, begonias, cannes. They can also be stored in the refrigerator, but be sure to isolate from moisture. It is better to wrap first in paper, and then in a clean bag.

Of these plants, the cannes are the most impatient. If it was warm in the store, then the growth process has already started and, as a rule, it cannot be stopped. Cannes will have to be planted.

ROOMS OF PERENNIUMS: these are irises, as well as herbaceous and tree-like peonies (photo 3, 4). Herbaceous peonies and irises can lie in the refrigerator. Well, if you have moss in stock. Wrap the root in slightly damp moss and place in a bag. Instead of moss (for peony), you can use a damp cloth or paper. It is better to moisten not with ordinary water, but with a solution of phytosporin (squeeze well!). Irises are best stored in a bag with peat. Excess moisture is useless to them.

Tree peonies wake up early. Already in the store, leaves are blooming at the ends of the branches (photo 3). Tree peonies should be planted. The root is large. It is convenient to plant in five-liter cut-off cans. They clearly show how wet the soil is and how roots develop in it.

Strong divisions of tree peonies may bloom. Cut off the bud or let it open, but then immediately cut it into a vase.

DIVISIONS OF PERENNIUMS: astilbes, phloxes, hosts, daylilies, eryngium and others. Here, look at the thickness of the roots and the condition of the kidneys. Daylilies with thick cord-like roots can be kept in the refrigerator (photo 2). But it is desirable that the kidneys are small and have not yet begun to grow. Only in this case, the plant can be stored without planting it in a pot.

If sprouts have appeared, then during storage they will stretch out without access to light. In addition, take food from the roots, which will completely weaken them. This means that delenki with sprouts are subject to mandatory planting in the ground so that the roots receive nutrition from the ground.

Plants with thin roots, such as phlox, are best planted immediately (regardless of the size of the buds). If stored for a long time, they can dry out and become unviable.

SHRUBS: roses, spireas, forsythia, lilacs, action, etc. It is better to choose those whose buds are dormant. They are easier to keep until spring.

But you can’t put such plants in the refrigerator (too large). And they can only be stored at low temperatures close to zero. If the loggia is more than four degrees Celsius, then it is not suitable for storage (without landing). The buds will definitely wake up and begin to draw juices from the seedling.

All shrubs must be planted in the ground! This also applies to roses. Their roots are tightly tightened into the bag (photo 6). Soak them in warm water before planting. Trim the ends with sharp scissors. Plant so that the roots do not bend. Do not remove the wax layer from the branches.

Thoroughly water the planted plant with a fungicide. You can use Vitaros, Fitolavin, Fitosporin.

Coconut substrate is suitable as a soil for planting roses, peonies and other plants. It has a lot of air, fewer pathogens, and the roots develop well (photo 5).

After planting, all plants (roses, peonies, phloxes) should be placed in a cool, bright place. The loggia is perfect. But you can't put it on the floor! There is not enough light. Raise the plants higher, at least on a stool.

Otherwise, the shoots will stretch out a lot and it will be very difficult for such a plant to come out. In the spring, it can burn out in the sun, and in the first winter it can die from frost.

Water very sparingly. Periodically (every 10-14 days) add Fitosporin to the water. Spray the plants with the same solution during the day on the leaves and sprouts that have emerged from the ground.

If the seedlings are in a room where the temperature is much higher, water as the soil dries. Spray the shoots as well, otherwise a spider mite may start from the dryness of the air.

By following all these rules, you will keep your plants until spring. But still, try to refrain from buying early. It is justified only if you come across rare plants or novelties.

It has begun... It's still February on the calendar, and the first plants have already begun to arrive in stores selling planting material. First, timidly and timidly, gladioli, dahlias, buttercups, lilies and begonias. But the closer spring, the wider the river of supplies. And now hostas, daylilies, geraniums, tradescantia, astilbes, roses and much, much more. If you don't buy now, you might not buy at all. Unfortunately, this is true. Some varieties come in limited quantities, some simply do not wait for us and quietly die from heat, humidity or any other reasons.

So we bought a plant. And the spine started to grow, and in the yard - a deep minus. And planting in a pot will not correct the situation - the plant sprouts, the first leaves ... even buds - and dies.

And this is what happened - growth began due to the reserves accumulated in the tissues, and the roots did not “turn on” - a “forcing effect” turned out, something like the regrowth of shoots of cut roses in a vase.

Be careful when purchasing anemones, geyhera, geleniums, Siberian and Japanese irises, bathing suits, poppies, monards, hellebore, phlox, echinacea long before planting - it is much more difficult to keep them alive.
For planting material of these plants, cold storage (at a temperature not higher than +5 °C) and the so-called "cold start" are especially important: planting in the ground as soon as possible, preferably under cover.

Phlox and echinacea, according to experience, it is better to buy in general in summer or autumn, with a closed root system (in pots). The same applies to lumbago - this plant does not tolerate transplantation, and storage in the form of open roots is completely contraindicated for it.

Anemones should not be bought in the spring at all. And if you already managed to - a cold start is vital for them! Plant the plants in a container in a slightly damp substrate, and bring it into the garden - warm the earth with boiling water, drop the container and fill it with sawdust and thoroughly with snow.

A cold start is also required for delphinium and aconite.

What can you buy without fear?

Although the summer season is still far away, feel free to buy hosta rhizomes, daylilies, astilba, bergenia, stonecrop (sedum), lily bulbs. These plants will tolerate home "overexposure" well. Even if you don’t have room in the fridge or they have already begun to unfold their leaves, you can plant them in pots and put them on a bright, cool windowsill. True, many hostas in room conditions do not acquire the leaf color characteristic of the variety, so final conclusions about sorting will only have to be made after the plant has acclimatized in the garden. Yes, and plants with overgrown leaves will have to be planted in the ground late, after the end of all frosts, besides carefully shading.

Fairly undemanding in storage and bearded irises. But their plots require drier conditions, and in dampness they can rot.

Waiting for spring. Planting material is most often stored in a refrigerator or basement at a low positive temperature.
Rhizomes are transferred with slightly moistened peat, coconut fiber, sawdust, light earth, and even better - sphagnum moss and placed in loosely covered plastic bags or plastic containers. Plants with small, thin, quickly drying roots can be planted in pots with soil, but they are stored in the same conditions. A very good solution would be to take the planting material of frost-resistant plants to the country house and bury it in the snow. Choose a shady place in the garden where there is no water in the spring, and dig the snow to the ground. Remove the rhizomes from the package, lay them on the ground, cover with peat, earth or sawdust, and on top with snow. But this can only be done with completely “sleeping” plants, with unopened buds. If the leaves begin to unfold, negative temperatures are contraindicated for them.
After the snow melts, plant perennials in the ground. It is useful to use film or other shelters.

About the storage of some perennials in more detail:

daylilies

root neck - carefully inspect for rot. If necessary, treat with antifungal drugs or root rot agents.
Daylilies are perfectly overexposed in the refrigerator at a temperature of +1 + 4. The roots must be placed in a slightly damp substrate, it is better to store wrapped in paper (newspaper) or a perforated plastic bag. There is no need to plant daylilies at home in pots with a sprout length of up to 10 cm (personal experience). But if the sprouts are longer, then the daylily can be planted in a pot and grown as a houseplant, as this unpretentious plant easily tolerates home conditions. The only difficulty is that it is possible to plant a plant from a pot in the ground only after the threat of return frosts has passed, gradually accustoming it to sunlight. (For Ukraine - after May 25.) After planting in a permanent place, the plant should be shaded from direct sunlight.
Daylilies that were stored in the refrigerator after purchase can be planted in open ground at the end of April (according to the weather, focusing on the daylilies already in the garden, covering them from frost with a plastic bottle, lutrasil).

What you should pay attention to when examining: roots - cut rotten ends, remove old, dry, rotten, damaged roots.
Root neck - carefully inspect for rot. If necessary, treat with antifungal drugs or root rot agents. They are perfectly overexposed in the refrigerator at a temperature of +1 + 4. The roots must be placed in a slightly damp substrate, better stored wrapped in paper (newspaper) or a perforated plastic bag.
There is no need to plant hostas at home in pots with a sprout length of up to 5 cm (personal experience). Personal experience: they were sent to the pit when the ground was still frozen, poured with boiling water to dig a hole. I poured coconut substrate at the bottom of the pit, laid the hostas, covered it with coconut substrate, then earth. Perfectly overexposed from the end of March to May.
It can be planted in open ground at the end of April (according to the state of the plant, the smaller the sprout, the earlier it can be planted; according to the weather, focusing on the hosts already in the garden, covering it from frost with a plastic bottle, lutrasil).
Prefer neutral or slightly acidic soil. Depending on the size of the variety / type of hosta, the root neck is buried from 1.0 to 5.0 cm during planting.
If necessary, you can plant them in a pot at home, as the hosts easily tolerate the warm and dry air of the room. But we must keep in mind that such plants will have to be kept at home until the beginning of June, and only then planted in open ground, gradually hardening the plants.

What you should pay attention to when examining: roots - cut rotten ends, remove old, dry, rotten, damaged roots.
Root neck - carefully inspect for rot. If necessary, treat with antifungal drugs or root rot agents (Epinom).
They do not tolerate overexposure in apartment conditions on the windowsill, since the plant at the first stage of development requires a lower temperature, lower at night and slightly higher during the day. It is advisable to keep the rhizomes in the refrigerator at a temperature of 0 to +3, wrapped in sphagnum moss and a perforated plastic bag before planting in the ground.
If you still have to plant the plants in a pot, then you need a "cold start". We plant in a poor substrate - 2/3 sand, 1/3 earth, put it in the refrigerator. Watch for leaves. They begin to grow - we take them out, put them in a cool place +10 +12 during the day, and put them in the refrigerator at night. Do not flood! We plant in open ground in May, be sure to shade the planted plants.

What you should pay attention to when examining: roots - trim rotten ends, remove old, dry, rotten, damaged roots.
Root neck - carefully inspect for rot. If necessary, treat with antifungal drugs or root rot agents.
They do not tolerate overexposure in apartment conditions on the windowsill, since the plant at the first stage of development requires a lower temperature, lower at night and slightly higher during the day. It is advisable to keep the rhizomes in the refrigerator at a temperature of 0 to +3, wrapped in sphagnum moss and a perforated plastic bag before planting in the ground. If you still have to plant the plants in a pot, then you need a "cold start". We plant in a poor substrate - 2/3 sand, 1/3 earth, put it in the refrigerator. Watch for leaves. They begin to grow - we take them out, put them in a cool place +10 +12 during the day, and put them in the refrigerator at night. Do not flood!
However, it is better to take it to the dacha as soon as possible and dig it in (if the earth has not yet thawed, then you can use purchased land for this).

What you should pay attention to when examining: remove loose scales (if they are hard and not rotten, they can be used for reproduction).
If there is rot, remove to healthy tissue. If necessary, treat with antifungal drugs or root rot agents.
Overexposure: Perfectly overexposed in the refrigerator. Use a preparation recommended for preplant treatment / storage. Dry. Place in a dry substrate, wrap in newspapers and store in the refrigerator at a temperature of +1 + 4. It is advisable to place the bulbs with the sprout up, then even if the lilies begin to grow, the sprout will not be bent. If the sprout exceeds 10-15 cm, it can be planted in a pot. It is only necessary to remember that lilies grow roots at a temperature not higher than 10-15 degrees. Therefore, the pot must be placed on a glazed balcony or in the refrigerator. It is possible to plant a lily from a pot in open ground only after the threat of returning frosts has passed. Lilies stored in the refrigerator are planted in May.

Clematis:

Clematis with 1-2 eyes or, if the purchased clematis is frail, planted in long pots without a bottom, usually use rose pots. You can use pots for clematis, those that are larger. Sometimes I plant at home in not very large pots, and when I bring them to the dacha, I plant them in large ones. Why do I plant in a pot without a bottom, but because only for a single season, the roots of clematis in good conditions go beyond the pot. If the pots have a bottom, then as a rule I get a twisted lump of roots, some of the roots come out of the drainage holes and when digging these roots break off, and the tangled ones have to be untangled when planting, which is not good, because in the fall I try to transfer the clematis from the pot to a permanent place rather than replant.
So, I planted it in a pot (I buy land, if it is not possible to buy, you can use the land from the garden) and I dig the pots into the ground in a stationary greenhouse. If there is no stationary greenhouse or there is no place for pots, then you can build a greenhouse from arcs. The main condition is that there is constant humidity, warmth and there is no stagnation of water at the roots.
That's when clematis grow by leaps and bounds and in one season you can get decent bushes already with several buds or even sprouts. I never put pots on the ground, I always dig them in, so there is more opportunity to keep moisture inside the pot at the roots.
Peonies - a separate conversation.
About buying peonies. The life cycle of these plants is such that transplantation and division are best tolerated in the fall. Rhizomes planted in spring take root worse, lag behind in growth, and are more susceptible to disease. In fairness, it must be said that it is not easy to completely ruin the peony root - they are very unpretentious - but on the other hand, you can easily lose a year, or even two, before full flowering. Experienced pion growers advise immediately planting the rhizomes acquired in the spring in large (3-8 l) pots and placing or dropping them in the garden, and in August-September, at the optimal time for peonies, plant them in a permanent place

Daylilies have been leading the rankings of popular perennials for many years. They have undeniable advantages: they are unpretentious in cultivation and care, decorative throughout the season, bloom for a long time, and the collection of varieties and hybrids includes tens of thousands of plants with flowers of various shapes and colors.

Selecting a landing site

It is believed that daylilies can grow anywhere, because in their homeland - in the Far East, they feel great in shady forest corners.

But in the temperate climate of central Russia, daylilies in partial shade will not have enough heat for luxurious flowering, and such a planting will not allow the plants to show all their capabilities. It is better for them to choose sunny, wind-protected areas.

It is desirable that the plants are fully lit for at least 5-6 hours a day. Daylilies with a delicate color of flowers need light throughout the day, and varieties with a rich and dark color in the heat need midday shading from fading.

The soil

The soil for daylilies should be neutral or slightly acidic. The land for plants is prepared in advance and carefully, because daylilies have to grow in a permanent place for a long time - 6-15 years.

The soil is dug up to a depth of 30–35 cm. Compost, peat, and sand are added to heavy clay soil so that moisture does not stagnate. Sandy soils, on the contrary, are light and poorly retain water and nutrients, so they are enriched with humus and clay is added.

With a close occurrence of groundwater, daylilies are planted on ridges 10–15 cm high.

How to choose high-quality planting material when buying?

Planting shops and garden centers offer daylily rhizomes. Before buying, you should carefully inspect the transparent plastic packaging and make sure that the root system is alive, healthy and dense. It should be noted that if there are few roots and they are weak and thin, then such a plant will gain strength for flowering for another 2-3 years. The rhizome should not have soft and rotten parts.

When buying new products, you should find out how the variety or hybrid is adapted to the local climate. Hundreds of new daylilies appear on the market each year. Most of these plants are bred in the subtropics of the United States and it may happen that in the middle Russian latitudes their acclimatization will be difficult, so often experts advise flower growers not to forget about old reliable and proven varieties.

Landing

An important point in the cultivation of daylilies is planting in the ground. It is held in the spring in May or early September. Spring planting is preferable, such plants take root better.

If the seedling was bought late in autumn or winter, then until planting, a healthy rhizome can be stored without loss for several months. Plants are placed until the awakening of the kidneys in a cool place with a temperature of 4-8°C.

Before planting, the dead and rotten parts of the roots are removed, for disinfection they are treated with a solution of any fungicide. If the planting material has been stored for a long time and the roots have dried up, then it is soaked for several hours in a solution of humate or root. Healthy roots with this treatment will quickly come to life, the withered parts will also be visible - they are cut off.

Landing holes in diameter should be larger than the root system. The distance between them, depending on the degree of growth of the bushes, is 0.5–1 m.

A nutrient mixture of compost, garden soil, peat is added to the prepared wells. Additionally, you can add mineral fertilizers and ash. The day before planting, it is advisable to shed the soil so that the earth settles a little.

In the center of the planting hole, a small hill is formed, on which the root collar is placed. It can not be deepened much, it will have a bad effect on flowering. The depth of the root collar should not be more than 2.5–3 cm. Roots are freely distributed around in the hole. The rhizome is carefully covered with earth, compacting the soil around the seedling and watered. In the first days after planting, the roots continue to be watered regularly.

Care

Watering

Moisture is especially important for plants in the spring when flower stalks are laid and in summer during flowering. Regular deep watering is preferable to frequent and superficial. Depending on weather conditions, the plants are watered once every 7–14 days. This mode of watering is enough for the roots to accumulate moisture. Watered in the morning or evening, trying not to get water on the delicate flower petals. After watering, the plants are weeded and loosened.

top dressing

If young daylilies are planted in fertile soil, then they do not need additional feeding in the first year. Due to excess nitrogen fertilizer, the plant will grow green leaves at the expense of flowering.

Fertilizers are applied in phases: at the beginning of spring growth, in the summer before flowering and at the beginning of autumn. In summer and autumn, top dressing should contain potassium and phosphorus, important nutrients necessary for laying future flowers in all peduncles.

Daylilies are very fond of liquid fertilizing with organomineral fertilizers. Dry mineral fertilizers are scattered around the bushes, then embedded in the soil and watered. The dosage depends on the age of the daylily and the type of soil.

Particular attention should be paid to old overgrown bushes, the soil around which is exhausted by flowering.

In old, overgrown bushes, the root neck becomes exposed over time, therefore, every year, humus is poured around the base with a layer of 2–3 cm.

Plants benefit from mulching around bushes. This improves the composition of the soil, prevents overheating, protects against frost and weeds. Dry peat, compost, crushed pine bark are used as mulch. Do not use fresh sawdust. To prevent wood mulch from becoming a haven for slugs, granules of pesticides or superphosphate are scattered around the plantings.

Transfer

In one place, daylilies can grow for a long time up to 15–20 years. During this time, the bush grows, ages, the flowers become smaller. This is noticeable after 7-8 years. Therefore, every 5-6 years, plants need to be rejuvenated. Daylilies can be transplanted throughout the season, but it is preferable to do this at the beginning of spring leaf growth - in April-May or in August-September with the onset of a dormant period. With a spring transplant, rooting will be faster and more successful.

How to cover flowers for the winter?

Daylilies tolerate wintering well in central Russia. Most people have enough natural snow cover. But for the reliability of planting heat-loving daylilies in the fall, they mulch with a layer of 2-3 cm or cover with spruce branches. Also, bushes can be spudded with earth up to 15–20 cm in height. Previously, the entire dry aerial part is cut off. Shelter is especially important in the first year for young fall plantings.

With the advent of spring, the shelter is removed, the mulch is raked from the base of the bushes so that it does not interfere with the growth of new shoots.

reproduction

Daylilies are propagated by dividing the bush, seeds, stem cuttings.

The division of the bush

This is the most common way in which the plant retains all parental characteristics. There are several ways to separate daylilies: with digging up bushes or without extracting it from the ground.

The bush is completely dug out along with the root. The rhizome is washed with water. It is so easy to get rid of pests, all parts are clearly visible and it is convenient to divide the plant. Then the peduncle and leaves are removed, leaving shoots 10–15 cm high. The old bushes are dried, then the plant is cut into pieces so that each has a part of the root neck with a bud. In order for delenki to form more decorative greenery, 3-5 shoots are left on them.

It is problematic to divide strongly overgrown bushes. In such plants, young roots grow along the edges of the bushes, and these parts, after separation, will quickly take root. Delenki from the middle of the bush without young roots need time to grow, because these parts are more injured. There are more dead and long roots that are cut. Delenki from the middle of the bush are planted on a temporary bed, and after 1-2 years - on a permanent place.

Young rosettes can be separated from loose daylily bushes at the end of summer without resorting to digging up the mother bush. To do this, choose two or three-year-old bushes with their own roots.

Without digging in the spring, it is possible to divide not very growing varieties of daylilies. With a sharp shovel from a vertical position, cut a bush along the marked lines, then cut it from below and remove the pieces from the ground. This method requires experience and skill. Places of cuts on the roots are sprinkled with wood ash.

Reproduction by seeds

This method of reproduction is more often used by breeders to obtain new varieties and hybrids. Daylily seeds do not last long. Planting is carried out before winter with freshly harvested seeds or in the spring of the next year. Daylily seeds need cold stratification. With winter sowing, this procedure will take place in the soil in a natural way. In spring, the seeds are preliminarily kept at low temperatures of 2–3 ° C for a month. They are closed to a depth of 2–3 cm. Flowering in daylilies grown from seeds begins at 2–3 years.

Propagation by stem cuttings

In some varieties that bloom in August, 1-3 new bushes form in the axils of the peduncles. When they grow, they will have several pairs of leaves and root tubercles. After the peduncle has dried, the rosettes are carefully separated from the mother bush. You can cut off the cuttings with a piece of stem 3–5 cm. The leaves on the rosettes are shortened by a third, then the cuttings are planted in a nutrient substrate for rooting. At first, they make sure that the soil does not dry out, periodically spray it, shade the plants.

Diseases and pests

Daylilies are lucky, they are in good health, resistant to diseases and rarely affected by pests.

Of the diseases, the main danger for daylilies is. Its pathogens can be bacteria or fungi, and the cause is waterlogging of the soil.

Signs of the disease are stunted growth and yellowing of the leaves. They become lethargic, sticky, easily detached from the base. Urgent measures are taken immediately at the first symptoms of the disease. The plant is completely dug up. The roots are washed in a solution of potassium permanganate, all the affected parts are cut out with a sharp knife, and then the sections are sprinkled with a fungicide.

Of the pests before flowering, it causes problems daylily mosquito. It reproduces by laying eggs in buds. Damaged buds do not grow, they are deformed. They are cut off and destroyed.

Wintering in the soil scoop caterpillars in early spring, they can damage and destroy young shoots and plant buds. Pests are destroyed by weeding aisles, treating daylilies with insecticides. The use of poisoned baits is also effective.

In any garden you can find a small corner for daylilies. This is a grateful plant. For minimal care, it will delight its owners with beautiful flowering. Daylilies are good not only in flower beds, in borders or on, in bouquets they look no less festive and luxurious!

You can find out the tips of experienced flower growers on growing daylilies by watching the video.