Many people ask me what kind of circuit I put in my controllers for wind generators. Of course, I already answered, filmed a short video on how to use it, and mentioned it in articles. But in this article I want to tell you more about the voltage relay, and describe some of the applications and features.
In general, voltage relays are different, some work as time relays, and at a given time they turn something on and off, notify with a sound signal. There are relays that operate on temperature, time, or voltage. What are the voltage relays you can see here Voltage relays, I have been buying in this store for a long time, the prices there are the cheapest, and the quality is normal. But these are far from all types of relays, there are others, they can be found by searching on aliexpress, below is a screenshot from the store ...
I use such a voltage relay in controllers, it is the very first in the store - Voltage relay 12v... It works only on voltage and has nothing superfluous, although there are versions with four and seven work programs.
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There is also an option in a plastic case, but I buy without it. The voltage relay has two buttons, "SET" and "ENTER". The "SET" button scrolls through the parameters one by one, at first the relay switching voltage is set. Three digits on the screen are blinking alternately, and the "ENTER" button scrolls from 0 to 9 each digit that is blinking. Having set the desired number, you need to press "SET" and then set the second number, then the third. Further, the next three digits are the voltage at which the relay is turned off, they also blink alternately, we set them and go further by pressing the "SET" button. When you circle everything in a circle, the parameters will take effect and the relay will display the current voltage.
So the same relay can work as if in a mirror image. If you hold the "SET" button for 5 seconds, then the relay, on the contrary, at the first set voltage will turn off the relay, and at the second, on the contrary, turn on the relay. This can also be useful when you need to disconnect something when the voltage is exceeded, for example, a charger. I think you can figure it out by poking the buttons. Also, there is a third parameter there - this is the delay in turning on or off the relay, and the fourth parameter is the duration of the relay turning on, but I did not use them and I can not say anything about it.
Specifications:
Working voltage 10-16 volts.
The voltage that this board can measure is 0-99.9 volts.
Built-in contact relay parameters, 277V 10A AC, 30V 10A DC
Power consumption 16mA when the contact relay is energized, consumption 45mA
The lower voltage threshold of 10 volts is associated with a contact relay, it does not turn on if the voltage is below 10 volts, and the board itself works from 5 volts, I checked. The upper voltage threshold is also associated with a contact relay, if the voltage is more than 16 volts, then the relay coil, when turned on, consumes too much energy and will not withstand the transistor that turns on the relay. But in general, I applied more than 30 volts and the board worked.
In my controllers, I soldered the built-in contact relay, and brought out the wires to turn on the solid-state relay, it does not create a load when turned on, so the circuit works and at 24 volts it is normal.
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The contacts on the back of the board are signed, so there should be no problems with the connection. Plus and minus for powering the board. And the plus and minus of ADS is for voltage measurement. Yes, the board is powered separately and measures the voltage separately, while it can measure the voltage with which it is powered. I did not use the plus and minus IN terminal, but it seems to be for connecting a temperature sensor to measure the temperature. To do this, you need to rearrange the chip on top of the board and connect a temperature sensor so that the relay works according to temperature, it will show the temperature.
What can you use it for? Well, I put it in a controller for a wind generator, and by voltage it includes a powerful load to the batteries so that there is no overcharge. When the voltage on the battery exceeds 14.6 volts, then this board turns on the relay, and powerful light bulbs are connected through the relay to the battery, which burn excess energy until the voltage drops to 13.5 volts, and turn off until the voltage again exceeds 14.6 volts.
And so you can use such a board with a charger, so that when the battery is fully charged, the charger is disconnected, and automatically connect the charger when the voltage drops to the threshold set in the settings. You can automatically turn off the music in the car if the voltage on the battery drops below 12.2 volts, so that there is energy left to start the engine. There can be many options. There is also a voltage relay with two relays on board, the operation of which can be configured separately, and 16 programs of work by time, voltage and by event (contact closure-opening).
Voltage relay video review
What kind of load are we talking about? Yes, about any - reels, light bulbs, solenoids, motors, several LEDs at once or a heavy-duty power LED-floodlight. In short, anything that consumes more than 15mA and / or requires a supply voltage of more than 5 volts.
Take, for example, a relay. Let it be BS-115C. The winding current is about 80mA, the winding voltage is 12 volts. Maximum contact voltage 250V and 10A.
Connecting a relay to a microcontroller is a task that has arisen for almost everyone. One problem is that the microcontroller cannot provide the power required for normal operation of the coil. The maximum current that the controller output can pass through itself rarely exceeds 20mA, and this is still considered cool - a powerful output. Usually no more than 10mA. Yes, the voltage here is not higher than 5 volts, and the relyushka needs as many as 12. There are, of course, relays for five volts, but they consume more than two times the current. In general, where the relay is not kissing - everywhere is an ass. What to do?
The first thing that comes to mind is to put a transistor. The right decision - the transistor can be selected for hundreds of milliamperes, and even for amperes. If one transistor is missing, then they can be switched on in cascades, when the weak one opens the stronger one.
Since it is accepted in our country that 1 is on and 0 is off (this is logical, although it contradicts my old habit, which came from the AT89C51 architecture), then 1 will supply power, and 0 will remove the load. Take a bipolar transistor. The relay requires 80mA, so we are looking for a transistor with a collector current of more than 80mA. In imported datasheets, this parameter is called I c, in ours I c. The first thing that came to mind is KT315 - a masterpiece soviet transistor that was used almost everywhere :) Orange is such. It costs no more than one ruble. Also, KT3107 will ride with any letter index or imported BC546 (as well as BC547, BC548, BC549). For a transistor, first of all, it is necessary to determine the purpose of the terminals. Where is his collector, where is the base, and where is the emitter. This is best done using a datasheet or reference book. For example, here is a piece from the datasheet:
If you look at its front side, the one with the inscriptions, and keep the legs down, then the conclusions, from left to right: Emitter, Collector, Base.
We take a transistor and connect it according to the following scheme:
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The collector to the load, the emitter, the one with the arrow, to the ground. And the base on the controller output.
A transistor is a current amplifier, that is, if we pass a current through the Base-Emitter circuit, then a current equal to the input multiplied by the gain h fe can pass through the Collector-Emitter circuit.
h fe for this transistor is several hundred. Something about 300, I don't remember exactly.
The maximum output voltage of the microcontroller when applied to the unit port = 5 volts (a voltage drop of 0.7 volts at the Base-Emitter junction can be neglected here). The resistance in the base circuit is 10,000 ohms. This means the current, according to Ohm's law, will be equal to 5/10000 = 0.0005A or 0.5mA - a completely insignificant current from which the controller will not even sweat. And the output at this moment in time will be I c = I be * h fe = 0.0005 * 300 = 0.150A. 150mA is more than 100mA, but this just means that the transistor will open wide open and give out as much as it can. This means that our relyukha will receive nutrition in full.
Is everyone happy, everyone is happy? But no, there is a zapadlo here. In the relay, a coil is used as an actuating element. And the coil has a strong inductance, so it is impossible to abruptly cut off the current in it. If you try to do this, then the potential energy accumulated in the electromagnetic field will come out in another place. With a zero breakage current, this place will be voltage - with a sharp interruption of the current, there will be a powerful voltage surge on the coil, hundreds of volts. If the current is cut off by a mechanical contact, then there will be an air breakdown - a spark. And if you cut off with a transistor, then it will simply be ditched.
It is necessary to do something, where to put the energy of the coil. Not a problem, close it to yourself by putting a diode. During normal operation, the diode is turned on against the voltage and no current flows through it. And when turned off, the voltage across the inductance will be in the other direction and will pass through the diode.
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True, these games with voltage surges in a disgusting way affect the stability of the device's supply network, so it makes sense to screw in an electrolytic capacitor a hundred different microfarads near the coils between the plus and minus of the power supply. It will take over most of the ripple.
The beauty! But you can do even better - reduce consumption. The relay has a rather high breaking current, but the holding current of the armature is less than three times. Anyone else, but the toad crushes me to feed the coil more than it deserves. After all, this is heating and energy consumption and much more. We also take and insert into the circuit a polar capacitor for a dozen other microfarads with a resistor. Now what happens:
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When the transistor is opened, the capacitor C2 is not yet charged, which means that at the moment of its charging it is almost a short circuit and the current through the coil goes without restrictions. Not for long, but this is enough to disengage the relay armature. Then the capacitor will charge and turn into an open circuit. And the relay will be powered through the current limiting resistor. The resistor and capacitor should be selected in such a way that the relay works clearly.
After closing the transistor, the capacitor is discharged through the resistor. From this follows a counter zaplo - if you immediately try to turn on the relay when the capacitor has not yet been discharged, then the current for the jerk may not be enough. So here we have to think at what speed the relay will click. Conder, of course, will discharge in a split second, but sometimes this is a lot.
Let's add one more upgrade.
When the relay is opened, the energy of the magnetic field is released through the diode, only at the same time the current continues to flow in the coil, which means it continues to hold the armature. The time between the removal of the control signal and the dropout of the contact group increases. Zapadlo. It is necessary to make an obstacle to the flow of current, but such that it does not kill the transistor. Let's insert a zener diode with an opening voltage below the breakdown voltage of the transistor.
From a piece of the datasheet, you can see that the Collector-Base voltage for the BC549 is 30 volts. We screw in a zener diode for 27 volts - Profit!
As a result, we provide a voltage surge on the coil, but it is controlled and below the critical breakdown point. Thus, we significantly (several times!) Reduce the shutdown delay.
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Now you can quite stretch out and start painfully scratching your turnips on the subject of how to place all this rubbish on the printed circuit board ... You have to look for compromises and leave only what is needed in this circuit. But this is already an engineering flair and comes with experience.
Of course, instead of a relay, you can plug in a light bulb and a solenoid, and even a motor, if it passes through the current. The relay is taken as an example. And, of course, the entire diode-capacitor body kit is not required for the light bulb.
Enough for now. Next time I'll tell you about Darlington assemblies and MOSFET switches.
Hello everyone.
In today's review, I will share with you my impressions of a 5-pin automotive relay purchased on eBay, and also show you one of the possible options for its use.
The relay was ordered almost simultaneously with the DRL kit, which I talked about a few days ago. What for? Because when using a standard connection, when the dimensions or low / high beam were turned on, the DRLs still continued to glow. I did not find anything good in this, and therefore began to think about automating their shutdown when turning on the dimensions or low beam. The simplest and most logical option seemed to me to use a relay. 
By the way, this is one of the few purchases I made before going to my local auto parts store. Imagine my surprise when I saw the price in the VAZ store: a relay - 5 rubles (about $ 2.5), a block for it - 2.5 rubles ($ 1). In total, we have $ 3.5 for an offline kit without waiting, versus $ 1.66 for them. The choice is obvious :) I ordered 2 relays at once, as I originally planned to install one for each light bulb.
The seller sent the parcel a few days after payment, assigning it a track, all available events for which you can view.
It took about a month for the parcel to get from China to Belarus, after which it was safely received at my post office. They are delivered in ordinary plastic bags without any identification marks and inscriptions (except for the barcode sticker). 
Outwardly, the relays are not much different from those that can be seen on the shelves in native stores. I have no particular complaints about their workmanship. The relays themselves look very decent in general. The contacts are securely sealed with a very resin-like sealant: 
As you can see in the photo, each contact is signed, so there shouldn't be any connection problems :)
Above the relay, the principle of operation of the relay is shown, as well as the manufacturer and brief characteristics. 
As you can see, this relay is designed for a voltage of 12-14 V and a maximum current of 40A. Whether it is really capable of surviving such a load I cannot say, since I did not have anything suitable for checking this parameter at the time of connection: (I have a maximum load on the network of about 4A, so there are no problems with this.
For fastening the relay, a metal plate is provided in the design, which can be removed without problems if necessary. 
The delivery set includes the relay itself and a block for it. The block comes immediately with wires, which greatly facilitates the installation process. The workmanship of the pads will be somewhat worse. The main disadvantage is the abundance of flash that was not removed after the outflow of the pads. The length of the wires going to the block is about 15 centimeters. 
But here the appearance suffers more likely, since this does not affect the functionality in any way. If you believe the description, then each relay is capable of working 10,000 on-off cycles, which is quite good.
In principle, there is nothing more interesting in the appearance of the relay, which means that you can proceed to checking their performance. But before doing this, I think it will not be superfluous to remind why these relays are generally needed.
In the normal state, in relay 2, the contacts are permanently closed. These are the contacts designated on the relay by the numbers 30 and 87a (in some cases 88). When voltage is applied to pins 86 and 85, circuit 30-87a is broken, and 86-85 is closed. Free contact (87) has a free plus (we don't need it). So we remove from the block the wire going to pin 87. 
So let's get started. First of all, we cut the positive wire going to the DRL. Since it is common in mine, you can get by with one relay, installing it near the place of its connection. In the cut, we connect the wires going to contacts 30 and 87a. Contact 86 connected to ground, and 85 to the positive wire going to the side lights. We insulate the wire connections and attach the relay somewhere under the hood. I got it like this (the ground wire was brought to the mounting bolt): 
The only thing left to do is to check how everything works. We turn on the ignition and see that our DRLs are glowing. So they didn’t make it worse. 
Next, turn on the dimensions / low beam: 
As you can see, everything works as intended. When you turn on the dimensions / low beam, the DRL light is turned off. For greater clarity, I shot a short video on how it looks live:
Summing up everything that has been written here, I can say that I was pleased with the purchase. First, everything works the way I wanted it to. Secondly, the price of a purchased relay with a block is two times lower than ours. Thirdly, one more relay remained in reserve :) And the idea arose to power the DRL from the generator so that they would start working only after starting the engine, and not turning on the ignition. Since if you are waiting for someone sitting in the car and listening to the radio, the DRLs light up. True, with a total load of 0.4A, they shouldn't put the battery down, but still somehow I don't really like it ...
The relay can be used in a wide variety of variations if desired. As far as I know, some of them even collect anti-theft devices :)
This, perhaps, is all. Thank you for your attention and your time.
I plan to buy +14 Add to favourites I liked the review +23 +37
An electromagnetic relay is actively used to control various actuators, switch circuits, and control devices in electronics.
The relay design is quite simple. Its basis is coil consisting of a large number of turns of insulated wire.
Inside the coil is installed kernel made of soft iron. The result is an electromagnet. Also in the design of the relay there is anchor.It is attached to spring contact... The spring contact itself is fixed on yoke... Together with the rod and the armature, the yoke forms a magnetic circuit.
If the coil is connected to a current source, the resulting magnetic field magnetizes the core. He, in turn, attracts the anchor. The anchor is mounted on a spring contact. Further, the spring contact is closed with another fixed contact. Depending on the design of the relay, the armature can mechanically control the contacts in different ways.
In most cases, the relay is mounted in a protective housing. It can be either metal or plastic. Let's consider the relay device more clearly, using the example of an imported electromagnetic relay Bestar... Let's take a look at what's inside this relay.
Here is a relay without a protective case. As you can see, the relay has a coil, a rod, a spring contact on which the armature is fixed, as well as executive contacts.
In schematic diagrams, an electromagnetic relay is indicated as follows.
Relay symbol in the diagram consists of two parts. One part ( K1) Is a symbol for an electromagnetic coil. It is designated as a rectangle with two pins. Second part ( K1.1; K1.2) Are the groups of contacts controlled by the relay. Depending on its complexity, a relay can have a fairly large number of switched contacts. They are divided into groups. As you can see, the designation shows two groups of contacts (K1.1 and K1.2).
How does a relay work?
The principle of operation of the relay is clearly illustrated in the following diagram. There is a control circuit. These are the electromagnetic relay K1 itself, the SA1 switch and the G1 battery. There is also an executive circuit that is controlled by a relay. The executive circuit consists of load HL1 (signal lamp), relay contacts K1.1 and battery G2. The load can be, for example, an electric lamp or an electric motor. In this case, the signal lamp HL1 is used as the load.
As soon as we close the control circuit with the SA1 switch, the current from the G1 battery will go to the K1 relay. The relay will work, and its contacts K1.1 closed the executive circuit. The load will be supplied with voltage from the G2 battery and the HL1 lamp will light up. If you open the circuit with the SA1 switch, then the supply voltage will be removed from the K1 relay and the contacts of the K1.1 relay will open again and the HL1 lamp will turn off.
Switched relay contacts can have their own design. So, for example, there are normally open contacts, normally closed contacts and changeover contacts (changeover). Let's figure it out in more detail.
Normally open contacts
Normally open contacts - these are relay contacts that are in an open state until a current flows through the relay coil. Simply put, when the relay is off, the contacts are also open. On the diagrams, relays with normally open contacts are indicated like this.
Normally closed contacts
Normally closed contacts - these are relay contacts that are in a closed state until a current begins to flow through the relay coil. Thus, it turns out that when the relay is off, the contacts are closed. Such contacts are shown in the diagrams as follows.
Changeover contacts
Changeover contacts Is a combination of normally closed and normally open contacts. Changeover contacts have a common wire that switches from one contact to another.
Modern widespread relays, as a rule, have switching contacts, but relays can also be found that have only normally open contacts in their composition.
For imported relays, normally open relay contacts are indicated by the abbreviation N.O... A normally closed contacts N.C... The common contact of the relay is abbreviated COM.(from the word common- "general").
Now let's turn to the parameters of electromagnetic relays.
Parameters of electromagnetic relays.
As a rule, the dimensions of the relays themselves allow their main parameters to be applied to the case. As an example, consider an imported relay Bestar BS-115C... The following inscriptions are applied to its body.
COIL 12V DC- this is rated operate voltage relay ( 12V). Since this is a DC relay, the abbreviation for DC voltage is indicated (abbreviation DC stands for constant current / voltage). English word COIL translated as "coil", "solenoid". It indicates that the abbreviation 12VDC refers to the relay coil.
Further, the relay indicates the electrical parameters of its contacts. It is clear that the power of the relay contacts can be different. It depends both on the overall dimensions of the contacts and on the materials used. When connecting a load to the relay contacts, you need to know the power for which they are designed. If the load consumes more power than the relay contacts are designed for, then they will heat up, spark, "stick". Naturally, this will lead to an early failure of the relay contacts.
For relays, as a rule, the AC and DC parameters are indicated that the contacts can withstand.
So, for example, the contacts of the Bestar BS-115C relay are capable of switching alternating current of 12A and voltage of 120V. These parameters are encrypted in the inscription 12A 120V AC (reduction AC stands for alternating current).
Also, the relay is capable of switching direct current with a strength of 10A and a voltage of 28V. This is evidenced by the inscription 10A 28V DC ... These were the power characteristics of the relay, or rather its contacts.
Power consumption of the relay.
Now let's turn to the power consumed by the relay. As you know, DC power is equal to the product of voltage ( U) to current ( I): P = U * I... Let's take the values of the rated actuation voltage (12V) and the consumed current (30 mA) of the Bestar BS-115C relay and get its power consumption (eng. Power consumption).
Thus, the power of the Bestar BS-115C relay is 360 milliwatts ( mW).
There is one more parameter - the sensitivity of the relay. In essence, this is the power consumption of the relay in the on state. It is clear that relays that require less power to operate are more sensitive than relays that consume more power. A parameter such as the sensitivity of a relay is especially important for self-powered devices, since a switched on relay consumes battery power. For example, there are two relays with power consumption 200 mW and 360 mW... Thus, a 200 mW relay is more sensitive than a 360 mW relay.
How to test a relay?
The electromagnetic relay can be checked with a conventional multimeter in ohmmeter mode. Since the coil winding of the relay has an active resistance, it can be easily measured. The resistance of the relay coil can vary from several tens of ohms ( Ω ), up to several kilo-ohms ( kΩ). Usually miniature relays have the lowest winding resistance, which are rated for a nominal voltage of 3 volts. Relays with a nominal voltage of 48 volts have a much higher winding resistance. This is clearly seen from the table in which the parameters of the Bestar BS-115C series relays are indicated.
| Rated voltage (V, constant) | Winding resistance (Ω ± 10%) | Rated current (mA) | Power consumption (mW) |
| 3 | 25 | 120 | 360 |
| 5 | 70 | 72 | |
| 6 | 100 | 60 | |
| 9 | 225 | 40 | |
| 12 | 400 | 30 | |
| 24 | 1600 | 15 | |
| 48 | 6400 | 7,5 |
Note that the power consumption of all types of relays in this series is the same and amounts to 360 mW.
An electromagnetic relay is an electromechanical device. This is probably the biggest plus and at the same time a significant minus.
With intensive use, any mechanical parts wear out and become unusable. In addition, the contacts of powerful relays must withstand huge currents. Therefore, they are coated with alloys of precious metals such as platinum (Pt), silver (Ag) and gold (Au). Because of this, quality relays are quite expensive. If your relay is still out of order, then you can replace it.
The positive qualities of electromagnetic relays include resistance to false alarms and electrostatic discharges.
We supply and manufacture automotive time switches, timers powered by 12 volts and 24 volts.
In the automobile miniature ragtime timer, a program has been developed that controls the microprocessor, which implements an accurate time relay (timer) of direct counting, made on the basis of a programmable microcontroller with a 12V or 24V power supply. The timer is produced in a simplified version for a mini size. The time relay is powered by 12V, 24V 15%. Produced in a miniature case, without control buttons and digital indicator, with time setting using a screwdriver on a multiturn variable resistance. Switching is performed by an electromechanical-type executive relay. Status monitoring is indicated by an LED indicator. The timer is made in the case of a standard automotive power relay and with leads for an automotive relay for installation in a standard automotive terminal block.
Automotive time relays are produced with power supply from 12 volts and 24 volts in several versions and various modifications with different time ranges: there are three models with adjustable operating time:
from 1 second to 60 seconds (0-60sec)
second model with a range from 60 to 600 seconds (60-600 seconds)
the third model with a range from 600s to 6000 seconds (600-6000s)
Models are also produced with a fixed operating time from 1 second to 6000 seconds and a supply voltage from 12 volts or 24 volts.
The power switching part of the product is made according to the scheme: time relays that control a power, executive relay with one changeover executive group with "NO" and "NC" contacts.
The maximum switched starting current of the contacts of the executive circuit is up to 25 amperes for timers powered by 12 volts and up to 20 amperes for time relays powered by 24 volts.
The timer case is made of heat-resistant plastic according to the overall dimensions of the automobile power relay, and for the connector of the standard 5-pin relay.
Timer 1 logic: Simultaneously with the power supply, the power relay is also turned on, and the countdown begins, after the set time (0-6000sec) the power supply of the power executive relay coil is turned off, the contacts of which turn on or off the load. The next cycle of work will take place after a short-term power failure on the power supply contact of timer No. 15. The diagram of the timer operation algorithm is shown in Figure 1.
Algorithm of operation of the time relay in version No. 2: After power is applied to the supply contacts of the timer, the set time starts to count (0-6000 sec), but the coil of the power relay does not turn on immediately and only after the set time has elapsed, power is supplied to the coil of the power executive relay and it is held, while there is power on the supply contacts of the timer and the executive contacts, respectively, enable or disable the load. The next time cycle will occur after a short-term power failure on the timer power contacts: No. 15. The diagram of the timer operation algorithm in version No. 2 is shown in Figure No. 2. 
The logic of operation of the time relay (timer) 12v version No. 3: When power is applied to the power contacts of the timer No. 15, the power executive relay turns on, but the time is not counted, after the power is turned off from the contact No. 15, the set time 0-6000 seconds starts When the set time expires, the power supply to the coil of the power executive relay is turned off and, accordingly, the load is turned on or off. Attentively!!! the timer circuit works only when there is a positive voltage on the power contact # 30. The diagram of the operation algorithm of the time relay in version No. 3 is shown in Figure No. 3. 
The logic of the timer in version No. 4: allows you to select the algorithm of the timer and the time range by the switching method and combines timers in version No. 1, No. 2 and No. 4. Operation in version No. 4 ("Start" button): When power is applied, nothing turns on, after pressing the "Start" button, the time starts counting, after the set time has elapsed, the power of the coil of the power executive relay is turned off, the contacts of which turn on or off the load. The next cycle of work will occur after a short press on the "Start" button. 
price 550r
Universal digital timer with 12 volt power supply. The time relay operates in dwell or cyclic mode in the time range from 0.01 seconds to 999 minutes.
LED digital indicator.
timer supply from 12 volts.
price 850r.
Photo timer UT12v
| Name | Price | Applicability | ||
| Block 45 7373 9007 s wires | 45.60 | 4-pin | ||
| Relay box 45 7373 9016 with wires | 49.10 | 5-pin | ||
| Relay box 45 7373 9078 with wires | 50.20 | 5-pin | ||
| Block 45 7373 9095 with wires | 50.20 | 6-pin | ||
| REGTAYM1-12- (0-60) (for on / off devices for 0-60s) | 350.00 | Cars of any brand and equipment with a voltage of 12V | ||
| REGTAYM1-24- (0-60) (for on / off devices for 0-60s) | 350.00 | For cars of any brand and devices with a voltage of 24 volts | ||
| REGTAYM2-12- (0-60) (for on / off devices in 0-60s) | 350.00 | Suitable for a car of any brand with an on-board voltage of 12 | ||
| REGTAYM2-24- (0-60) (for on / off devices in 0-60s) | 350.00 | Can be used in a car with a 24V on-board network | ||
| REGTAYM1-12- (60-600) (for on / off devices for 60-600s) | 350.00 | It is used for timing in a car with 12 volt on-board network voltage | ||
| REGTAYM1-24- (60-600) (for on / off devices for 60-600s) | 350.00 | Timer for a car of any brand with an on-board network voltage of 24V | ||
| REGTIME2-12- (60-600) (for on / off devices after 60-600s) | 350.00 | The time relay can be installed in any brand of car with a voltage of 12V | ||
| REGTAYM2-24- (60-600) (for on / off devices after 60-600s) | 350.00 | Cars of any brand with an on-board network voltage of 24V | ||
| REGTAYM3-12- (0-60) (for on / off devices after 0-60s) | 350.00 | Cars of any brand with on-board voltage 12V | ||
