The cable cutter looks like wire cutters, but on closer inspection, the biting part of such a tool is built a little unusual. What is it for? This and more will be discussed below.
A variety of cables - a large selection of tools
Deciding to do repairs in the house, you notice that the wiring is already very old, the cables are heating up, and the plugs or machines are constantly knocking out. After that, a decision is made - to replace all the wiring in the house or apartment. What do you need from the tools? These are side cutters, or, as they are also called, wire cutters, tape measure and screwdrivers of various sizes. I would like to focus on what the wire cutters are.
In fact, these tools can be used not only in electrical wiring, but also in other works, for example, depending on the size and shape, they can even bite through rebar up to 6 mm. What do ordinary electrician's side cutters look like? These are two parts, each of which consists of a handle and an edge sharpened inside. Their connection takes place in the center through a special hole using a rivet made of durable material. Their purpose - again, depending on whether they are small or large - is to bite the cable or individual cores, as well as thin wire.
For example, a conventional tool can work with a section of about 3x1.5. A larger cable may no longer be able to be processed, or it may need to be cut into pieces. At the same time, there are also such wire cutters with which it will be easy to cut even thick high-voltage cables. If the action of the first type of wire cutters can be compared with the principle of operation of scissors, then the working part of the second is somewhat reminiscent of an excavator bucket. Such a tool is used near the reinforcing unit, where frames and meshes are assembled by attaching joints with knitting wire, and not by welding. In this case, they are very convenient for even segments that will be needed to tie the reinforcement.
In a word, when buying a tool, we choose what we need it for, because the design and its price depend on it. Bolt cutters can also be attributed to wire cutters, also called reinforcing wire cutters or pin pliers. This useful tool is intended for cutting, or, in other words, biting bar metal. The most commonly used option is that you can work if you need to cut metal up to 1 cm thick.
Cable cutter design
Now about the design of the tool handles. Ordinary wire cutters can go without insulation, as no live work is required. And an electrician's tool must have protective handles made of non-conductive material so that current does not beat on his hands. Also among these handles there are those on which, above the place where we will hold on to the hand, there is a limiter that prevents the hand from jumping off the wire. Tools with this type of handle are undoubtedly very convenient, because they provide reliable protection for the performer of work, protecting against all sorts of surprises.
Moreover, when the tool is checked at the enterprise by a firefighter or a commission, no problems or claims should arise. With regard to safety (regardless of whether we work at home or the tool is used in the workplace), we can say the following. Wire cutters without insulation, with a broken handle where the metal is visible, are not allowed. Alternatively, you can wrap the handles with several layers of electrical tape, but then there will be no limiters on them and aesthetics will be lost, although working with electrical tape will be no less convenient than with wire cutters with ordinary handles.
Some tools have a spring that automatically pushes the handles back into place. But usually such a device has small wire cutters designed for delicate work. Since the spring is not everywhere, consider how to properly hold the tool while biting the cable. With the little finger and middle finger we grab one of the handles below from the inside, and hold it near the rivet with the big one. The working half will be the one that is taken with the index (outside) and middle finger (inside). In this case, the middle finger will play the role of the same spring, pushing the handle.
Types of cable cutters - manual and hydraulic drive
What are cable cutters? This tool is also known as a cable cutter. Thanks to its device, it is possible to cut the most popular types of cable: copper, with a cross section of 3x400 mm and below, or aluminum, with a cross section of 200 mm and thinner. If we talk about the ways in which they are activated, there are such options. We can mention a mechanical sector cable cutter, where the work is done more often by hand. They have a manual drive, in which there is a ratchet drive mechanism for the cutting sector element, which allows you to cut cables of a sufficiently large diameter with little effort.
An equally popular variety is the hydraulic cable cutter (manual and machine type): in them, forces are transferred to the part being cut using a hydraulic drive. Among this type, electro-hydraulic ones can be distinguished, in which there can be a drive for controlling both hands and feet. These hydraulic cutters, connected to the mains, have been specifically designed to work quickly and conveniently. At the same time, they can work not only from electricity, but also from batteries.
In addition to cutting wires, such cutters are also used for cutting cable cores. These include the following brands: LK125(work with a cross section up to 125 mm²); LK250(the cross section is already twice as large - up to 250 mm²); LK500(the largest size is a section up to 500 mm²). Sector shears are also used when there is a need to cut a piece of cable (option with copper and aluminum is possible) or cut cores, already up to 32 mm². We also include sector cable shears designed for cutting a section from 50 to 70 mm² in an armored cable.
Crimp for twisted pair - sysadmin's nippers
At the same time, tools aimed at removing semi-conductive screens can also be called a cable cutter or wire cutters.. They are applicable to plastic cables and are easy to use due to the fact that they have an adjustment that is adjusted to the depth of cut and occurs very smoothly, and not abruptly. Undoubtedly, in any inventory, a tool is useful that can remove the outer sheath and insulation from a cable or wires of different sections. Permissible cross-sections range from 35 mm² at 10kV to 500 mm2 at 35kV.
System administrators are familiar with the twisted-pair crimp tool. These are also a kind of cable cutters, but they also have a tricky device that will allow you to close a special clip on the system channel wiring arranged by color. This, of course, can be done with a screwdriver, but rarely this method gives a good result, and many times more time is spent on it. But with the crimp function, the wire cutters will do this job in one click, and the clamp will be strong, but when working manually with a screwdriver, clamping each wire separately, and there are at least 6 of them, the fastening is unlikely to be uniform and uniform.
Cutting a power cable is one of the most frequently performed operations in the reconstruction of power networks, in the construction of new energy facilities, as well as in the construction of large industrial buildings and structures, shopping and entertainment and business centers with an extensive power supply structure. With modern approaches to the organization of such work, the process of cable cutting is accompanied by additional requirements, namely, the need to perform large amounts of work in a short and well-defined time frame. An even greater intensity of cable cutting is typical for such production tasks as the dismantling of cable routes and preparing the cable for disposal. Therefore, the question is so relevant: what is better to cut?
When looking for an answer to this question, maximalism prevails in most cases: tools for cutting cables must provide a solution to the problem, firstly, quickly, secondly, as safe as possible, and, thirdly, as least as possible. Alas, practice shows that in life these three criteria are practically not realizable at the same time. But, of course, options are possible.
Economy option - cutting the cable with a grinder. Pretty fast and very inexpensive. And in practice, alas, this option has a lot of supporters. But let's ask any safety specialist, is everything in order on his part? It's no secret that sparks flying when cutting an angle grinder are a common cause of fires. And this tool itself is one of the most traumatic. Many work foremen probably get a cold shiver at the thought of what cutting a cable with a grinder can lead to if a worker with a tool turned on in his hands stumbles and loses his balance, or if a disk shatters ...
An even less expensive option is cutting with a hacksaw. Quite cheap and cheerful. You can try and work carefully, without injury. It just happens very slowly! And it takes a lot of physical strength. Large volumes of work cannot be done in this way. Yes, and not everywhere with a hacksaw you can get close, and it often happens that the work needs to be done in cramped conditions. And, finally, in enclosed spaces, metal shavings from such cutting are far from always harmless for electrical devices.
It remains to cut the cable with specialized tools, i.e. cable cutters. The range of manufacturing companies includes many tools of this type, differing in design, performance and price. Can be found for any need with any purchasing budget. But if we are talking about the case when the criteria for efficiency, reliability and ergonomics are at the forefront, then it is worth taking a closer look at the tools manufactured by the German company KLAUKE.
KLAUKE is known as a manufacturer of a wide range of cable lugs and crimping tools. But besides them, the company's catalog contains a lot of cable cutters, both mechanical and hydraulic. We will not consider mechanical ones now, because they are less suitable for the task of cutting power cables in large volumes. But let's talk about electrohydraulic in more detail.
What are these tools? We can say that they are, in fact, the pinnacle of the evolution of specialized tools for cable cutting. The cutting head is equipped with two blades driven by a hydraulic cylinder rod. In a relatively small body of the tool, a hydraulic system, an oil pump and a miniature electric motor powered by a battery are assembled together. The oil pressure in the hydraulic cylinder can reach several hundred bar, and the cutting force can reach several tons, which allows you to cut cables with a diameter of up to 120 mm! And in order to activate this power, it is enough to press the control button. You can make dozens or even hundreds of cable cuts a day, since physical effort is expended only on holding the tool in your hands.
Among the world's tool manufacturers, very few companies are able to produce tools of this class. And KLAUKE, as a developer and manufacturer, occupies a leading position among them both in terms of the number of models, and in terms of their reliability and functionality.
KLAUKE electro-hydraulic cable cutters have a range of design and performance features that make them stand out from the rest. The metal of the knives is made the way it is done in Germany, famous for its metalworking traditions. The chemical composition, geometry, bulk strength, sharpening and hardening of the cutting edges - everything is calculated and optimized so that the tool works efficiently and lasts a long time.
These knives, by the way, can always be ordered separately - in advance or as they wear out. The heads in these cable cutters can be rotated around their axis, allowing convenient positioning of the tool relative to the cut. And they can be either closed or open type. Each of them has its own advantages. The former, with the same drive power, have relatively higher cutting abilities, since the force on the hydraulic cylinder rod is directly applied in the direction of movement of the movable knife. In open heads, the force on the cutting edges is somewhat lower, but this design allows you to perform "serial" cutting faster, since there is no need to constantly open and close them, as in closed heads. The consumer himself chooses what is more important for him in his particular case: higher cutting parameters or speed.
Another plus of KLAUKE electro-hydraulics is a good balance of tools relative to the center of gravity and comfortable two-component handles with soft inserts. All this allows you to securely hold the tools in your hand, and in combination with their compactness and low weight, it makes it possible to work for a long time without accumulating fatigue.
By pressing the start button, we set the knives in motion. The cutting cycle lasts an average of 10-20 seconds, depending on the design and cable section. After cutting is completed, the convergence of the knives stops and they automatically return to their original position. But even at any moment of cutting, the convergence of the knives can be instantly stopped by simply releasing the "start" button, and after that, either continue cutting again, or forcibly spread them by pressing another button - "return". The ability to instantly stop the knives is the most important component of the safety system when working with KLAUKE cable cutters.
Safe work is also facilitated by the fact that the worker can clearly see what is happening in the cutting area even in low light conditions, since this area is illuminated by a powerful white LED on the body. Another LED, but red, informs about the need to charge the battery and even that the tool has already worked out the prescribed number of work cycles and needs to be serviced.
Charging Li-Ion batteries MAKITA with a voltage of 18 V, which are equipped with KLAUKE tools, is enough for several tens or even hundreds of cuts, depending on the type and section of the cable. Li-Ion battery has the ability to lose charge very slowly, so the tool is always ready to work. It takes only 15-20 minutes to charge such a battery. If the production conditions allow the use of a voltage of 220 V, then an adapter for mains power can be installed in place of the battery. Thus, versatility is ensured: you can work with the battery "outdoors", that is, where there is no power supply, or you can work indoors with power from the mains without thinking about recharging the batteries.
Let's take a closer look at several KLAUKE electro-hydraulic cable cutters that are of the greatest interest for our task.
| Name | head type | Cutting force kN (tons) | Cutting parameters max. Ф in mm | Weight with battery kg | Peculiarities | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| ESG25L | Closed | 50 (note 5) | 25 | 2,1 | Exceptionally light weight and dimensions. Cuts almost any cable that will fit in his head. It can be copper and aluminum cable, including armored with steel tape, aluminum-steel conductors and even some solid products made of copper, aluminum or steel, for example, a steel bar with a diameter of up to 10–12 mm | |
| ES32 | open | 15 (approx. 1.5) | 32 | 1,8 | These two models have the same cutting head design. They are designed for cutting copper and aluminum cable with stranded conductors of flex class 2-4. The difference between the tools is a different drive. The ES32 has a KLAUKE-Mini series drive that uses 9.6V Ni-MH batteries. The ES32L with Mini+ drive has a Li-Ion battery, cuts faster and can be powered by a 220V adapter | |
| ES32L | open | 15 (approx. 1.5) | 32 | 2,0 | ||
| ESG55L | Closed | 120 (ex. 12) | 55 | 8,0 | This tool is unique in its own way - its cutting force of 12 tons allows you to cut almost any cable with a diameter of up to 55 mm, including armored with steel tape and reinforced with steel, for example, VBBSHV 4x240 mm 2 |  |
| ES105L | open | 74 (note 7) | 105 | 9,4 | Designed for cutting copper and aluminum cables, including those armored with steel tape up to 105 mm in diameter, for example NYY cable 4 x 240 mm 2 |  |
KLAUKE offers more than 15 models of electro-hydraulic cutters, which allows you to choose the most suitable tool in terms of size, cutting parameters and price. But if necessary, for example, in the event of a complete lack of electricity, you can pick up manual hydraulic cable cutters. Or cut the cable with hydraulic cutting heads powered by hydraulic foot pumps.
Andrey BONDARENKO,
Klauke brand manager
Company "UNIT MARK PRO"
official distributor of Klauke in Russia
+7 495 748-09-07
www.umpgroup.ru
How to cut wires under voltage 220v?
Well, according to the mind, you still need to turn them off first. As a rule, if you do not have such an opportunity and do not have access to the switch (knife switch), then these wires are not yours and it is better not to touch them at all. However, if that's what it takes...
About dielectric wire cutters in the first answer has already been said. Additionally, you can put on special dielectric gloves, put a dielectric (rubber or thick plastic) mat under your feet and / or wear rubber shoes, and it is better to ground the wire cutters.
It has already been said about the fact that it is necessary to cut the wires one at a time and at different distances from the attachment point. But at the same time, try to cut in such a way that the part of the wires that is closer to the source of electricity and remains energized after cutting remains hanging in the air, preferably high enough, and not lying under your feet. If you don’t know which side the electricity comes through the wires, it’s better to cut a piece out of them so that all the scraps hang in the air. Well, do not forget to insulate the place of the cut. It is necessary to isolate those ends of the wires that come from the source of electricity, and if this is unknown, then all ends.
By the way, there is also a very original way of cutting such wires, but it is only suitable if you are absolutely confident in yourself, in the reliability of the circuit breaker or fuses and you have all the necessary dielectric protection equipment plus, for example, eye protection glasses, and the wire cutters are securely grounded. Then you can just cut both wires (phase and zero) at the same time with wire cutters in one place. The wire cutters close the wires to each other, a short circuit will occur and the automatic protection will turn off this section of the network. So, for example, firefighters and rescuers sometimes do it when they need to quickly turn off unknown wiring at the scene of a fire or emergency rescue work ...
It is very simple to check whether the automation has worked - you need to cut off another piece of wiring in the same way from the side of the energy source or, if its location is unknown, from both sides. If at the same time there is no re-closing, then the section of the network of interest to you is de-energized.
I remind you - the wires must be cut as it is said in the first option, so that there is no live wire under your feet. what else have you turned off - there can always be a kind soul who, suddenly left without light, can turn the machine back on without any ulterior motive ...
A good electrician has a variety of tools in his arsenal. After all, high-quality wiring installation often depends not only on knowledge and skills, but also on the availability of certain devices, as well as skills on how to handle them.
Even a seemingly simple question, how to strip a wire from insulation, requires a certain set of tools. An experienced electrician has a tool for high-quality stripping of wires of any type and section.
The importance of proper cleaning
For a high-quality and reliable electrical connection, it is important not only to correctly twist or solder. It is equally important to carefully clean the core from insulation. In a hurry or improper use of the tool, it is easy to damage (cut) the conductive core itself. This leads to a decrease in the cross section of the wire and a faster failure of the junction: breakage or burning.
As a rule, wires and cables used in everyday life have a single-core or multi-core structure. Depending on this, various tools and methods can be used to release the core from insulation. Let's consider the most commonly used of them, which are used by home and professional electricians to remove insulation.
professional tool
Professional electricians use a special device called a stripper (KSI). Such a tool can be of three types:
- Manual;
- semi-automatic;
- Auto.
Let's consider their device in more detail.
The handheld device is perhaps the most common stripper option. Several positive factors come into play here:
- Light weight;
- Compact size;
- Several additional features that make this tool more versatile.
Such a stripper has several (usually up to seven) fixed gaps, which allow you to quickly strip the wire with a cross section of 0.25 to 2.5 mm. Of the additional features, cable cutters and the crimping function of the lugs are the most useful.
One of the varieties of a manual stripper, allows you to remove insulation from wires with a cross section from 0.6 mm to 2.6 mm
Semi-automatic KSI
This tool also has a certain number of holes in which you need to insert a wire to strip it. After that, it is enough to squeeze the handles: the sponges will close and hold the wire, and the knife will cut the insulation. As a result, the stripper will open, removing the insulation.
The advantage of such a tool is the simplicity of design and ease of use. The disadvantages include some bulkiness and impracticality: additional functions are not provided. That is why such a device has not been widely used even by professionals.
Semi-automatic stripping pliers KBT WS-03A
KSI-machine
Deservedly popular with electricians who have to make a large number of different connections every day, automatic strippers are used. Such a tool is extremely easy to use: just insert the wire into the work area and squeeze the handles. The device will carefully remove the braid from the wire, automatically determining the cross section of the core.
Without tuning, such a tool works with a wire with a cross section of 0.2 to 6 mm 2. It is worth noting that modern strippers have an adjustment screw that allows you to adjust the device to work with a smaller diameter wire.
KBT WS-03A pliers automatically determine the wire cross section
In addition, the popular WS-04 stripper model has many additional features:
- Combs on the inside of the handles allow crimping of cores in round terminals;
- Cable cutters are installed next to the combs, allowing you to quickly cut the ends of the wire;
- If necessary, you can set the limiter for stripping, for example, 2 cm.
The multifunctional automatic stripper is designed for stripping both single and double insulation. But it is worth noting that one layer of braid is removed in one operation. That is, in order to remove double insulation, it is necessary to perform two manipulations.
improvised means
But not everyone needs to strip dozens of wires every day. In addition, a quality professional tool costs decent money. Therefore, in everyday life, when it is necessary to clean several ends, it is quite possible to get by with improvised means and a tool that any owner has.
Stripping with a knife
The most popular tool for one-time cleaning of insulation is a regular knife. But its use is fraught with damage to the cable core. Therefore, the knife should not be held straight, but at an acute angle to the wire and "cut off" the insulating layer. When using a knife, care must be taken as it is easy to cut yourself. A clerical knife is also often used, but it is even more inconvenient to work with them, and it breaks easily if the sheath is very hard.
A hook-shaped knife is often used to cut cables. This knife has a wider blade and is designed to cut the insulation along the cable.
Hook-shaped knife for stripping KNIPPEX KN-1220165SB is used for longitudinal cutting of insulation
A knife is also available in the form of a special clip. The wire is inserted under the clamping bar where the blade is installed. Pressing the bar with your thumb, the knife is drawn along the braid, cutting it, after which the insulation is easily removed. Such a knife costs about 200 rubles and is a fairly versatile tool.
Such a knife is often used to strip the insulation from a UTP cable. Also on this device there is a device for clamping the UTP cable into sockets and cross-panels
It is very convenient to use wire cutters, which are also called side cutters. In order to quickly strip the wire from insulation, the wire cutters must be correctly taken in hand. It is better to take the wire cutters with the reverse side: so that the cutting edges are directed against the stroke. This will allow the blades to easily cut into the sheath without violating the integrity of the strand. This method is easy to implement, and every owner has wire cutters. Therefore, this method of stripping wires has found wide application.
Side cutters are an essential tool for any electrician.
Reflow method
The insulation melting method is most suitable for cleaning old wiring. The fact is that over time, the winding loses its elasticity, becomes rigid and at the same time fragile. If you use a mechanical tool, such as wire cutters or a stripper, the braid can crack anywhere.
In this case, you can use a soldering iron or a wood burning device. With a heated soldering iron, the braid is melted in a circle, after which it is easily removed with wire cutters or pliers.
The advantages of this method include the ability to remove the insulation from very thin wires without the risk of damaging them. Of the minuses, we note the presence of acrid smoke during reflow and, of course, electricity is required.
It is not recommended to use teeth to remove insulation. Not only does this damage tooth enamel, but it can also cause damage from static electricity accumulated during wiring. It's not fatal, but very annoying.
How to strip some types of wire
Sometimes there is a need to connect not an ordinary soft-braided wire, but a conductive core with a specific coating. Removing such isolation requires extraordinary approaches. Let's look at some options.
enamelled wire
To strip such insulation, two methods are used:
- mechanical method. For this method, it is best to use fine sandpaper. A piece of paper is folded in half, then the wire is inserted into the sheet. Lightly squeezing the sandpaper with your fingers, the wire is pulled over the free end. Such manipulations should be continued until the enamel is completely erased. This method is suitable for enameled wire with a cross section of more than 0.2 mm 2;
- The thermochemical method is often used by radio amateurs to clean enamel from wires with a cross section of less than 0.2 mm 2. Its essence lies in the use of a soldering iron and vinyl chloride material (an ordinary electrical tape with such a coating is suitable). A piece of tape lies on a flat surface, a piece of wire is laid on top. A heated soldering iron should be slowly drawn through the wire. The chlorine released at the same time perfectly removes the enamel coating from the wire.
PTFE Coated Wire
Fluoroplastic is a polymeric material, for a protective coating of wires, it is produced in the form of a narrow tape, which is tightly wound on a conductive core. Such insulation has high thermal stability (up to 300°C), does not let moisture through and is suitable for use in various difficult operating conditions.
Such a braid can only be removed mechanically. To do this, on one side along the wire, the insulation is carefully scraped off with a knife so as not to damage the core. As soon as the wire is exposed, the insulation is laid aside and cut to the desired length.
I’ll dilute the reviews of flashlights, watches and batteries with a not quite ordinary thing :)
I warn you right away - the thing is quite specific and it is unlikely that the figure in “I plan to buy” will begin to grow by leaps and bounds :) But suddenly it will come in handy for someone. And it will be simply interesting for someone to look and read, for a personal outlook.
The product being reviewed is a desktop automatic wire cutting and stripping machine. Yes, there are such :) If you're interested - continue under the cut. Lots of text!
background
It turned out that one of the developments “for myself and friends” turned out to be in demand a little wider than expected. And more than 30 wires of different lengths are involved in the device - from 10 cm to 1.5 m. Some of them need to be cleaned longer, some shorter, some generally require cleaning the section in the middle, separate groups of wires should be as uniform as possible in length ... And it became not interesting to do all this with your hands :) Plus there were ideas for the future that would increase the number cut and stripped wire at times. The question arose about automating this process.
A cursory googling showed that there are such machines, they are sold even here in Russia ... for 100+ thousand. A little less fluent googling showed that in China these same machines are an order of magnitude cheaper. And it was decided to risk contacting Tao and the intermediary (he also delivers to Russia).
What is this chr ... thing (characteristics)
As the name implies, this is a machine that can cut wires of the desired length and strip them. The principle of operation is simple: two rollers that clamp the wire can drive the wire in both directions with decent effort. Between these rollers is a knife mechanism, consisting of two V-shaped sheaths facing each other with cutouts. These blades can move a predetermined distance towards each other, making it possible to cut the insulation or cut the wire - depending on how close they move. For stripping, the machine pulls the wire to the desired length, cuts the insulation with knives and, without opening the knives, pulls the wire. The notched part of the insulation moves.
Characteristics:
Power - 110/220 V 50 Hz
Power consumption - 160 W
Weight - 30 kg
Dimensions - 390x350x255 mm
Wire cutting length - 1-9999 mm
Cutting length accuracy - 0.2 (+-0.2%) mm
Cross-section of the processed wire - 0.1-2.5 sq. mm
Stripping length - in the middle of the wire up to 60 mm, ends up to 35 mm
Permissible wire insulation - PVC, fluoroplast, silicone, fiberglass.
What can:
- Cut wires (and thin heat shrink) to a specified length from 1 mm to 10 m.
- Strip both the ends of the wire and expose up to 10 points in the middle of the wire.
- Stop operation when the specified total number of cut wires is reached.
- Suspend work for a short time upon reaching the specified number of cut wires in the batch.
What is configurable:
- Wire clamp separately on each pull roller.
- Wire core diameter.
- The thickness of the wire insulation (the depth of the notch when stripping).
- The length of the cut wire.
- The stripping length of each end and the distance that the cut insulation is moved.
- The position and width of the exposure of each of the 10 sections in the middle of the wire.
- The total number of cut wires.
- Number of wires to be cut per batch (for example, you need to cut only 1000 wires, but distribute them in batches of 100 pieces).
- Delay in seconds after the end of the next game.
- The speed of the broaching mechanism.
All of these settings are stored in programs, and a total of 99 programs can be configured. Programs have only numbers, no text description can be given to them. Moreover, the program numbers are divided into certain ranges: 1-59 - general programs with stripping only the ends, 60-89 - programs for stripping in the middle of the wire, 90-99 - programs for cutting ultra-short wires.
Who cares - here from the manufacturer's website.
Purchase, delivery
The site was chosen for Tao for several reasons. The most important of them is that such machines are presented in a much more diverse way than on the same Ali. In addition, more tasty configurations and lower prices are offered.
A seller was chosen not with the lowest prices and with a seemingly satisfactory bundle (we and Google could not achieve a clear translation of the different bundle options, but we liked the pictures). The carrier was given a link to the product page and asked questions: what does he think about this seller (rating, reviews, etc.) and how are the hieroglyphs deciphered, indicating different configurations. The carrier rather quickly replied that the seller had a good rating and positive reviews and painted humanly what is what in the configurations.
Having received approval from us for the purchase and delivery of the selected kit, the carrier issued an invoice, we paid it and began to wait, instructing him to take a picture of the machine and everything that comes with it in the kit and check the interface of the machine by turning it on.
After 20 days (the delay was the fault of the bank, the money could not reach the carrier's account for a very long time), the carrier reported that the machine had been received at its warehouse in China and attached photos. The machine, as it turned out, could only speak Chinese. On its own initiative, the carrier contacted the seller and demanded from him a chip for a machine with English (a controller programmed for English) - free of charge :)
After another 7-8 days, the machine set off slowly along the rails by the Russian transport company to my city. Slowly - this means that he traveled for almost a month from Blagoveshchensk to Krasnodar (Zheldorekspeditsiya, damn it) :)
Outcome:
Link given to the carrier - 28.10.2013
The machine was handed over to Zheldorexpedition - 03.12.2013
The machine was received in Krasnodar - 12/21/2013
Weight - more than 32 kg.
Unpacking, completeness
It was packed to the conscience - a solid wooden box, the machine itself was lined with foam inside. Unboxing photo, alas, not preserved :)
In addition to the machine itself, the kit includes: several spare fuses, three hexagons, several guide tubes for different wire diameters, spare knives. 
The machine itself is delivered assembled and ready to work.
The box also contained a package with a chip flashed with an English-language interface. Moreover, the Chinese even attached a new film panel with English signatures. The chip was changed without problems, it takes about 5 minutes with a coffee break and studying the insides of the machine :) And I decided not to touch the panel - there, in general, there are not so many inscriptions that need to be translated. So let it be as a spare. 
External and internal views
The machine is assembled soundly. I did not find any obvious flaws either on the body or inside. Only the film panel raises some doubts - who knows how long it will last, and even in places where the bolts are screwed in, it swells slightly. 
On the panel, in addition to buttons and indicators (of which, by the way, half do not work), a 30 cm ruler is also applied. Sometimes it helps when setting up the next program.
On the front there is the broaching mechanism itself, the knife mechanism and the roller pressure regulators (twists in the upper corners). These regulators are needed to adjust the broaching mechanism to the diameter of the wire. If you clamp too hard - the wire will flatten between the rollers, if you clamp it weakly - the broaching mechanism will not be able to pull the wire, shifting the insulation, it will slip.
On the right, a bunch of rollers is a device for aligning the wire (eliminates kinks, residual deformation after the bay). Surprisingly quite effective, though not very well executed.
Inside, everything is simple to disgrace: a controller and display board, a power supply, three stepper motors and drivers for them. Two motors rotate the rollers of the broaching mechanisms, and one compresses and unclenches the knives. 
Management is built on the basis of some 51st controller. With a strong desire, you can completely replace the entire control board with your own, but I have not yet had such a desire :)
Management, interface
The machine is equipped with a membrane keyboard, several LED indicators and a graphical monochrome display. For some unknown reason, the indicators do not light up under any circumstances :) This did not upset me too much and I just scored on them (it is possible that they are not soldered on the board at all).
The keyboard has a block of digital buttons with a dot and an "Exit" button, arrows, "+", "-", "Start" and "Stop" buttons. This is quite enough for convenient management and for setting up programs. What is missing is a large emergency stop fungus button. Maybe I'll do it later :)
Although the display is graphic, the programmers did not go out of their way - all information is displayed only in the form of text.
The numeric values of the parameters can be changed using the + and - buttons, or you can enter the number directly from the numeric keypad. The up and down arrows move the cursor between the program parameters, the "Exit" button exits the program settings (with saving changes), the "Start" and "Stop" buttons respectively start and stop the machine.
Easy to set up. The up or down arrow is pressed, the program number becomes highlighted (the speed is already highlighted in the photo): 
This is the first settings screen. It is configured for:
PRG - current program number
SPD - machine speed
LEN - length of cut wire in mm
AMT - total counter of cut wires
A-C - stripping length of the beginning of the wire in mm
A-S - shear length of the stripped insulation at the beginning of the wire in mm (if equal to or greater than A-C, then the insulation is completely removed)
B-C and B-S are the same for the end of the wire.
PS: why is it necessary not to completely remove the insulation from the stripped tip, but only slightly shift it? So that later, when storing these segments, the stranded wire does not fray at the stripped ends :)
Second settings screen: 
TOT is the total number of wires cut before the machine comes to a complete stop.
GRP - number of wires after which the machine will pause (batch)
DLY - pause duration after the next game in seconds
M S - enable stripping in the middle of the wire
DIA - wire diameter in some conventional units
RTL - insulation thickness, also in some units
There is something in the manual about setting up DIA and RTL, but I still don’t understand. It was easier to choose them experimentally for the desired wire :)
When choosing a program with a number from 60 to 89, the possibility of stripping in the middle of the wire is enabled: 
OPN - stripping length (insulation shear)
MS0-MS9 - distance of the next stripping section from the end of the wire.
Use plus or minus to select the number of the desired program (or enter it directly with numbers), then use the plus and minus arrows to navigate through the parameters and use the plus-minus buttons or numbers to change the parameter values. When finished, click "Exit" and all parameters are saved to the program under the current number.
Machine operation
First, here's an example of what it can do: 
The lower two segments are "combat" modes, such segments are cut for work. The top one is just a demo :)
The video below will show the process of work, but for now a few words in writing :)
The machine is quite noisy. And during operation - the engines are noisy - and during downtime - the cooling fan is noisy.
The second point - the machine needs to feed the wire. That is, he himself cannot wind the wire, for example, from a reel hanging on the axis. This is due to the fact that he starts pulling the wire abruptly and the heavy bobbin does not have time to turn due to its inertia. Because of this, the wire begins to slip between the broach rollers and the length of the wires begins to fluctuate greatly. It is required to ensure that the wire is fed freely. This, by the way, is not a disadvantage of the machine, it is a lack of equipment - special machines are sold for feeding wire from a reel :) But for now, the toad is choking to buy one :)
A bunch of leveling rollers on the right of the machine does its job, but on this machine they are disgustingly assembled. In theory, they sit on bearings and should rotate freely, but due to a design flaw (or washers? ...) when you pull the roller with a bolt, its bearing stops rotating normally. It turns out that the bolts are not normally tightened and from time to time they get out from the vibrations.
Another disadvantage of this model is that it does not detect the ended wire. The reel may be empty for a long time, and the machine will continue to buzz and click knives until it counts the specified number of cuts.
Setting the speed of the machine ... It would seem - why? Let it thresh at maximum. However, there are nuances :) Depending on the thickness and type of insulation and on the cross section of the wire, as the speed increases, the stripping can fail at high speed - on the stripped piece, the insulation is only slightly cut, but does not move, remaining fastened to the main insulation. Therefore, it is better to select the speed experimentally, starting from the maximum and reducing it, achieving a stable result.
Well, the video of the machine :)
Outcome
The machine in general works very well, I never had to regret buying it. During the work, more than 10 km of wire have already been cut and cleaned (knives, by the way, have not yet been sharpened or changed). In addition to its direct purpose, it also cuts thin heat shrink of 5 and 15 mm (as I cursed when I cut it with my hands) and wire for winding bundles of wires (the Chinese use this wire to wind bundles of wires on power supplies, for example).
Pros:
+ Reliability
+ Accuracy
+ Small size and weight
+ Relatively inexpensive
+ Does not cause a desire to modify or redo something, the settings and modes of operation are well thought out
Minuses
- Obscene execution of the part with leveling rollers
- Does not crimp contacts onto cut wires, does not insert them into connectors, does not solder them to boards, and in general - does not do all the housework :)))
PS: Well, a photo with fresh periodicals, so that they would not think that I am a Chinese who has known all the intricacies of the Google translator;))) 
If something is unclear or interesting - ask, I will try to answer.
I plan to buy +43 Add to favorites Liked the review +186 +339
