Regulations on technical competitions rope access
1. Goals and objectives:
- Prevention of injuries in industrial mountaineering.
- Determination of the best participant, taking into account the specifics of the profession.
Learning new ways of working. * I removed a healthy lifestyle, because PA is not healthy. Erase this phrase in parentheses *
Gaining rich experience in rope work.
2. Time and place of the event:
Vladivostok Marine College, Vladivostok
February 23, 2013 09:00 - 19:00.
24 February 2013 10:00 - 18:00
3. Competition management:
The general management of the organization and conduct of the competition is carried out by the Promalp Far East Training Center, Vladivostok. The direct conduct of the competition is entrusted to the main panel of judges, approved by the organizing organization. For the organization and holding of the competition, contact email: ***** @ *** ru tel. + 7 * is it worth leaving these data, or is it better to put additional soap and bodies of the head judge or organizer, if it is not one person. Erase this inscription in brackets *
4. Competitors:
Persons who have turned 18 years old at the time of the competition and who have no medical contraindications are allowed to participate in the competition, upon presentation of a valid certificate (or copy) of an industrial climber. Those who submitted an application within the allotted time and provided an action plan within the allotted time (for the distance "Spassraboty") * you need to change this name to something like "Pair Technique", "Group Work", "Team Work", "Team Work" or something like that, otherwise we limit ourselves to rescue work. Remove what is in parentheses *
5. Conditions of carrying out:
Some points of the condition may change during the preparation of the course
5.1. Competitions are held in accordance with the requirements of the POT RM, the current GOST, "Temporary safety rules in industrial mountaineering", the Code of practice IRATA, as well as this Regulation. Each participant must have 2 belay points independent of each other at any given time that meet the technical requirements.
5.2. All Participants will pass stages in basic kits equipment. If a participant wants to go the distance in his kit, the kit must meet all the requirements and pass the technical commission 30 minutes before the start. During the stages, it will be possible to use additional equipment, but for separate penalty points.
5.3. Competitions are held in two types: personal championship (access technique) and team (rescue) * I think it's worth removing this. Don't forget to delete what I wrote *
5.4. Competitions are held according to the penalty system.
5.5. Distance "Personal technique" consists of theoretical and practical tests.
The result of theoretical testing will be summed up over time on the practical part, and will affect the place taken at the "Personal technique" distance. If the participant is not present at the test, he receives the maximum penalty (10 minutes).
5.6. The start of the participants at the distance "Personal equipment" is carried out by a compulsory drawing of lots. At the “Rescue” distance, the participants choose their starting number in the order of the places occupied in the “Personal equipment” distance, if the sum of places is equal, the highest place is given preference. * I think it is worth removing this item and setting that they start according to the draw *
5.7. Competitions will be held in a warm room.
6. Security
The organizers of the competition are responsible for the safety of the courses, the referees' harness and the issued personal equipment. Participants are responsible for the safety of personal equipment.
Representatives of sending organizations and team members are personally responsible for compliance with safety regulations, discipline and environmental standards at the competition venue.
7. Sample competition program
February 23:
9: 00-11: 00 - Credentials Commission.
11: 00-11: 15 - Opening. All those who did not appear will be removed from the competition.
11: 15-11: 30 - Testing.
11: 30-12: 00 - Show the track.
12: 20-12: 40 - Receive a list of additional equipment.
13: 00-15: 00 - Distance "Personal equipment".
15: 00-15: 30 - Break.
15: 30-18: 00 - Distance "Personal equipment".
18:30 - Draw and display of the "Spaswork" distance.
24 February:
10: 00-10: 30 - Reception of the plan for passing the distance "Rescue" and a list of additional equipment.
10: 30-14: 30 - Distance "Rescue" (team of 2 people).
17: 30-18: 00 - Awarding of the winners, closing of the competition.
8. Summing up:
For each distance, the results are summed up separately:
8.1. The test result is summed up with the time of the "Personal technique" distance. The winner is determined by the lowest amount of time.
8.2. "Rescue": a team of -2 people, the winner is determined by the least amount of time.
In case of equality of results, the participant or team has the advantage:
With fewer penalty points
Girls
Those who started earlier
9. Awarding of winners:
Prizes and diplomas are awarded to participants who took 1,2,3 places at the distance "Personal equipment".
Prizes and diplomas are awarded to teams that took 1,2,3 places at the "Rescue" distance.
10. Acceptance of applications:
To participate in the competition, you must download and fill out a special form from the official website of the training center "Promalp DV" http: // www. ***** and send it by e-mail ***** @ *** ru, until February 10 inclusive. The number of applications for "Personal Distance" -60 participants (changes are possible), for "Rescue" -30 teams. The application must indicate: full name, city of b., Place of residence, sports category (mountaineering / rock climbing / speleology, if any), certificate number (where and when received, where and when extended), distance, in which I intend to speak (Personal equipment, Rescue). If accommodation is required, it must be notified by 10 February.
11. Financing:
The costs associated with organizing and holding the competition, awarding the winners are borne by the organizer of the competition - the training center "Promalp DV"
The costs associated with the participation of teams in the competition are borne by the sending organizations or the participants themselves.
at the distance "Personal equipment" -100 rubles per person,
at the "Spaswork" distance - 300 rubles per team.
To accommodate nonresident participants, rooms can be booked in a hotel. In the preliminary application, it is necessary to indicate the need to provide a place in the hotel before February 10.
Price per seat per day | ||
2-seater | 5 5 0 RUB | |
3-seater | 50 0 RUB | |
4-bed room | 4 7 0 RUB |
12. Additional information:*This item needs to be inserted somewhere above*
If the participant does not submit on time a list of additional equipment used at the "Personal equipment" distance (in writing), then it is automatically considered a starter in the basic set.
At the “Personal Technique” distance, before the start is announced, it is forbidden to carry out any (except for untangling) manipulations with the ropes and part of the polygon involved in the distance. It is allowed to carry out any manipulations with the basic set and taken additional equipment. * Maybe write something differently here, I don’t know. Erase what is written in parentheses here *
If the team does not submit the plan for passing the "Rescue" distance (in writing) in time, the team is removed from the distance. If the team does not submit on time a list of additional equipment used at the "Rescue" distance (in writing), then the automatic equipment is considered to be starting in the basic set.
At the "Rescue" distance, before the start is announced, it is prohibited to carry out any (except for untangling) manipulations with the ropes and part of the polygon involved in the distance. It is allowed to carry out any manipulations with the basic set and taken additional equipment.
** Here something else can be added, it will be later, while I can not imagine what else will be there **
In rope access, we use various devices for descent, ascent, positioning, one might even say moving in a three-dimensional projection if required by the task (). But everything and everyone obeys certain laws, for example, the laws of physics. In our activity, everyone is very vividly imagining and feeling Newton's law of universal gravitation, therefore, the desire and desire for the safe performance of work at height is a completely logical and healthy desire.
But this is not about Newton. So I want to be confident in the equipment that you use!
Make sure of reliability, help various markings, design terms, standards that are driven into the framework, allow
use equipment within the aisles of permissible norms, of course, if there is no purpose, to destroy something, break it.
In order for an element of our equipment to be published, in other words, to fall into our hands, a number of different tests are carried out. One of the calculated values obtained by testing is the ProofLoad (PL) test load. PL is the ultimate load applied in order to establish whether an item of equipment (equipment) has permanent deformation after this load for a specified period of time. Thus, the result of the test load can theoretically be related to the characteristics of the item of equipment under test in accordance with the expected operating conditions. For example, a test load of 6 kN per anchor bolt (in accordance with BS 7883). Under this load, the anchor bolt should not receive deformations that violate its functional properties, otherwise the use may lead to consequences that are contrary to safe operation. Directly on the product, the PL marking may not be indicated, but the main thing is not to forget, to help us with the standards (EN-s)
But the MBS marking, the manufacturers of equipment for rope access more often indicate the products, also in the certificates of conformity, with the unit of measurement kN.
Minimum Breaking Strength (MBS) - the minimum breaking strength, such a marking, indicates the minimum breaking load, the effect of which on a piece of equipment can lead to its destruction.
The main thing to remember is that the MBS installed by the manufacturer is indicated exclusively for new equipment. Provided that we have made good use of any equipment, it is worth considering the percentage of equipment degradation. For example, the influence of ultraviolet radiation and organic matter on nylon equipment. We can learn the MBS requirements for the equipment we use from the standards. For example, you can take carabiners, in the requirements for connecting elements, in the EN 362 standard, minimum breaking load ↔ 20 kN. The carabiner stretches longitudinally between two 12mm diameter pins with a closed carabiner latch, as tested by UIAA.
There are two more accompanying markings that I would like to consider in more detail: SWL and WLL.
I would like to first consider WLL (WorkingLoadLimit), which in Russian sounds like the ultimate workload. The WLL marking is usually installed by the manufacturer in order to protect an item of equipment, our equipment itself, from extreme loads that lead to permanent deformation, severe fatigue, and sometimes invisible changes in the properties of the materials from which the equipment is made. WLL is a value, one might say the manufacturer's recommendation, for the normal use of equipment. For example, for carbines, the maximum working load will be about 4 times less than its MBS value, if you give a load to a higher WLL value, then you should not be surprised why you cannot unscrew the carbine coupling by hand.
SafeWorkingLoad (SWL) is a safe working load that is determined under specific conditions, taking into account a strength factor (SF). Also (SafetyFactor) the safety factor depends on what kind of equipment we use, or rather what material it is made of. Correspondingly, for rope access, SF for metal is 5: 1 and for nylon 10: 1. In this case, SafeWorkingLoad (SWL) can be set by the equipment manufacturer, or calculated by the end user, taking into account the usage configuration based on MBS.
For example: We need to calculate the SWL for a loop that I made myself (highly not recommended), from a 6 mm cord and the junction is tied with a grapevine knot. MBS of the cord is declared by the manufacturer 1200 kg, we subtract 30% from this value - this is the loss of strength due to knots and that 840 kg and taking into account SF = 10 for nylon we get 840/10 * 2 = 168 kg
But it should not be overlooked that the safe workload is determined in specific conditions, that is, it depends on the configuration of the use of equipment. For example, in the figure, initially the MBS of a sling is 22 kN, but depending on the use in a particular configuration, the safe workload also changes.
All these abbreviations SWL, WLL, MBS, PL - help us correctly, and most importantly, it is safe for us and those around us to use the equipment in our very interesting and varied activities.
Experienced hikers and climbers know that often only the presence of a rope and special equipment can make a route accessible and relatively safe to pass. Most trekking routes around the world allow you to navigate them without using a rope. Sometimes, in dangerous places on the routes, special cables, braces or railings are fixed.
In such cases, a helmet, protective gloves, sometimes a belay system and a lanyard mustache are sufficient for safe movement. This equipment has already been covered in previous articles.
But on difficult hikes or ascents, highly rugged terrain may require more equipment. First of all, it is a rope and means of descent and ascent along it, as well as everything necessary for belaying. In this article, I want to talk only about the most basic points that will make it easier for a beginner to take the first steps in the world of extreme tourism, especially if he does them without detailed training by an instructor. Indeed, it often happens that tourists are faced with the use of such technical means on commercial ascents, where one guide / instructor for several people does not have the opportunity to conduct high-quality training.
Rope
Depending on the possibility of use, two types are distinguished - the main and auxiliary . Main rope is used for:
- insurance,
- hanging railings,
- with its help, participants move in places with difficult terrain.
Auxiliary rope (repsnord, paracord) is used for:
- organizing a bivouac,
- on the construction of ferries,
- insurance of personal belongings and equipment,
- insurance of participants by making the so-called prusik (Prusik knot),
- rescue work and in other situations.
For both uses, it is best to use only certified products, the characteristics of which meet or exceed those required in each situation. This rule is must be adhered to for all applications related to the safety of participants.
The main rope is of two types - dynamic("Dynamics") and static("statics").
Dynamic rope made in such a way as to stretch significantly under significant load. Thus, smooth shock absorption is achieved. The invention of the dynamic rope has greatly improved safety in the world of extreme sports. The person using it receives significantly less damage as a result of a strong fall than when using a static rope.
It should be understood that a stretching rope also has its drawbacks for certain types of use, primarily as vertical or horizontal railings, tension crossings, and lifting heavy loads. The rubber band effect makes the rope uncomfortable to operate in such cases. Plus, dynamic rope is not cheap.
In such cases, irreplaceable static rope. On commercial routes to the highest mountains in the world, such as Mount Everest, kilometers of rope are fixed each year. Usually made of static ropes. They are more convenient, cheaper, and have a very high wear resistance. Rope railings are also used when hiking Elbrus, its highest western peak.
All types of ropes now have a strong, wear-resistant upper sheath, and the inside consists of a large number of strong fibers. The braid is usually made in bright colors. If you need multiple ropes, use different colors to avoid confusion. The condition of the rope must be carefully monitored, in the mountains it can be damaged as a result of the influence of aggressive environmental factors and the human factor. The instructor must assess the nature of the damage to the rope. It is better for a beginner to immediately give up the thought of using a damaged rope.
Today the average diameter of the main rope is about a centimeter. This thickness provides a balance of strength, durability on the one hand, and weight, compactness and ease of use on the other. In the last decade, there has been some tendency towards a decrease in the diameter of dynamic ropes. However, a single main rope is rarely thinner than 9mm.
Rope belay
The points related to self-insurance were considered. On difficult terrain, lanyard alone is often not enough. Then the group is divided into ligaments, in which the participants belay each other with a rope, being tied with it.
Insurance can be simultaneous and alternating.
Simultaneous insurance used on relatively simple, but potentially dangerous terrain. The most common example is traveling in a bundle on a glacier. Participants move all at the same time, while they are tied together with a rope and are at a safe distance from each other - on average, 15-18 m. In the event of a sudden fall into a crack of one of the bundles, he is delayed due to the weight of other people in the bundle and the resistance of the rope cutting into the edge of the crack. Also, simultaneous belaying is widely used on narrow dangerous ridges, where it is possible to lay the rope separating the participants behind the relief ledges. Sometimes artificial rope anchorage points are used for simultaneous belaying, which requires more serious skills.
Alternating insurance it is used where the simultaneous movement of participants becomes dangerous. In this case, one of the participants moves along the terrain, if possible, threading the rope through the belay points (if any), and the other carefully belays him. Typically, a fall arrest device is used. The belayer carefully observes the ligament partner moving along the relief, gives out the amount of rope necessary for free movement or takes out the slack.
The belayer must be ready at any time to take all measures to arrest the first number that has fallen off.
This is the so-called " bottom belay", Since all the points of secure anchorage of the rope are below the climber. Moving with bottom belay the most risky and requires good preparation.
After the first number moves along the relief for the entire length of the rope or to a convenient / agreed place, it stops and organizes the base station at reliable belay points (large stones, teeth, stationary hooks or shackles, mobile belay points) and prepares to accept the second number to yourself, providing it top belay.
Top insurance more reliable and less traumatic due to the fact that in the event of a breakdown (with the correct organization of the process), there is no significant fall of the breakdown participant. In this case, the belayer can be relative to the climber both above (during ascents) and below (during training). In this case, the rope must pass through a special ring or carabiner at the top of the route.
Railing insurance. Railing.
It is necessary to mention this type of insurance, which is very popular on commercial and sport ascents, and is considered a group one.
By handrails, as a rule, we mean a rope fixed on both sides (above and below), which, often, also has additional anchorage points along its length (this is especially true for horizontal or diagonal railings). Such points of additional anchorage of the rope are obligatory at the bends of the trajectory of the handrail.
They usually move along the handrails by fastening the mustache of a self-belay with a carabiner (link) in the event that the relief is simple. If the terrain is difficult for the climber, then special clamps are used to prevent slipping down. The simplest and most affordable clamp is Prusik knot(cm. 
Fall arrest devices
For reliable alternating belay, the use of special devices is necessary. Currently, a great variety of them have been invented. The main types will be discussed here, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages.
You need to understand that only the most affordable and popular devices for use in hiking are described here.
Knot UIAA (UIAA)... This abbreviation stands for "International Mountaineering Federation". It is the standards of this organization that are taken as the basis for the certification of almost all devices for extreme activities. The UIAA node is perhaps the simplest way of relatively safe insurance. It can also be used for rappelling. All that is needed for this is a reliable carabiner, preferably steel, of a round cross-section (a carabiner made of light alloy will quickly start to wipe). This knot works "in two directions", has two positions, in one of which the rope is easily extended through the carabiner, and in the other, it has great resistance to passing through it.
The main advantage this method of insurance is simplicity.
Disadvantages more. The main one - the knot twists the rope very strongly, which after one pass through the karabiner with the knot becomes unsuitable for further use without alignment. Therefore, this method should be known rather "just in case."
« Eight". This type of trigger is very simple and reliable to use. Still would! There is simply nothing to break here. In addition to the figure eight, a carbine is also needed.
The main dignity- lightness, simplicity, cheapness. The ability for most structures to work with a double rope, thick, stiff or very dirty rope that may "refuse to cooperate" with more delicate devices.
From disadvantages- "twists" the rope, although not as much as the UIA knot. Requires increased care in use, since it does not have a self-locking effect. A certain paradox occurs - a device that requires clear skills and is potentially one of the most dangerous, most often ends up in the hands of beginners due to its low cost ...
« Cup". A technically more advanced group of devices. As light and almost as simple in design as eights, but with a partial self-locking effect. There are many designs for double rope. Ideal devices? If only ... They work poorly with rigid ropes and ropes of increased diameter ...
On a principle similar to a glass, many home-made or original devices of small-scale manufacturers work - all kinds of "insects", "fungi", "swallows" and other works of irrepressible engineering thought.
The devices listed above are convenient in that they can be used with equal success both for belaying and for rappelling. However, they are lightweight, compact, cheap and best suited for beginners. Nevertheless, I find it difficult to recommend the G8 as the first belay device for a beginner.
There are a number of more bulky and specialized devices used mainly in industrial mountaineering and speleology. They are bulky, heavy, and expensive. Therefore, they are more suitable for professional use and will not be discussed in this article.
I cannot ignore one more iconic belay device, which, however, can be used to a limited extent also for descent - gri-gri (GriGri) from the renowned French equipment manufacturer Petzl. Over time, the principle of operation of the device was adopted by other manufacturers with varying degrees of success.
First of all, the device is popular with rock climbers and mountaineers. Its peculiarity is semi-automatic operation. The action of the device is somewhat similar to the action of inertial seat belts in a car - if you pull smoothly, the rope (belt) comes out freely, but if you pull it sharply, the mechanism is blocked. However, there are some nuances in using the device. However, it significantly increases the safety of the insurance. Unfortunately, limited use, high price (about $ 90) and the need for certain skills do not make this device the best choice for a beginner.
Also worth mentioning separately Prusik knot ... This ingenious invention is more than eighty years old and, despite significant advances in technology during this time, it is still widely used in mountaineering, tourism and other types of extreme activities. This knot is a kind of stranglehold - a type of grasping knot that has a pronounced self-locking effect (if used correctly). Allows the climber to linger on an unexpected fall. At the same time, it is very simple, weighs almost nothing and takes up exactly the same space as a two-meter cord, from which it is most often made.
I think the reader understands that any information in any of the most beautiful articles is just food for thought. It cannot be the only reason for using special equipment in extreme travel or other circumstances. I highly recommend hands-on activities in extreme activities of your interest with a knowledgeable instructor. It also makes sense to conduct potentially hazardous hikes under the guidance of an experienced guide or people who have the necessary skills behind them more complex actions than those required for the event.
I wish you a fun, rewarding but safe adventure! The road will be mastered by the walking one.
Since May 6, 2015, the activities of companies providing industrial mountaineering (rope access) services have changed dramatically. New labor protection rules have come into force when carrying out work at height.
Rope access: the origins of terminology
In the article devoted to, we dwelt on the question of the origin of the new terminology. The source was the legal acts regulating the activities of industrial climbers in Europe and the United States.
Free translation of foreign terms has led to the appearance in the above-mentioned normative act of the concept of "rope access".
New requirements for labor protection have completely removed the term "climbing work" from the official circulation. In colloquial speech, climbing work was not mentioned before.
The terms “work at height” and “climbing work” are combined by the normative act by absorbing the second concept by the first.
All workers performing work at height are divided into two categories:
- Workers admitted to work at height. Within the meaning of the norm, this group includes "high-altitude workers" who use scaffolding, all kinds of lifts and towers, suspended cradles and other similar devices in the production of work.
- Workers allowed to work at height without the use of inventory scaffolding and scaffolding, using rope access systems.
Note. The regulation refers to rope access in the context of the use of a special access system for the performance of high-rise work.
The term "rope access" is not the same as the term "industrial mountaineering".
Industrial alpinism Is an industry, a kind of activity in the field of construction.
Rope access system- personal protection system against falls. And nothing more.
Our position on this issue is based on the terminology of GOST R EN 12841 -2012:
The Promalp-Center company is ready to perform any work at height, performed using rope access systems. Specific proposals for the implementation of certain types of high-rise work are on the main page of the site.
- Similar posts
Going down into a mine shaft without a ladder, overcoming a high drop in a river or urgently descending from the roof of some unfinished building or a factory - all this requires the skills of mountaineering and working with a rope, the ability to knit the necessary knots and use launching devices, as well as know some tricks for quick rappelling and ascent without descenders. This article will describe in detail and show all of the above, as well as a lot of interesting things ...
So the first thing to know is the nodes. I will show only those nodes that are really needed and are constantly used in practice. The most commonly used knot is the figure-eight loop. It is mainly used for attaching a carabiner to a rope or attaching a rope to a pole using the "Eight noose". To do this, a figure eight is knitted at one end of the rope, and the free end bends around the object to which the rope is attached and enters the loop. Next, you need to pull the free end and the rope will tighten.
Important so that the figure eight is formed and there are no overlaps, if they are, then the knot is prohibited to use and it must be tied up.
1. Eight:
2. Eight noose:
How to knit:
The next knot, no less common, is a double conductor, or hare ears. Reliable knot, used in the same place as the figure eight, only when you need to have 2 loops on the knot.
The knot also has 2 drawbacks - it is that after a long application of a strong load it is very difficult to untie it, and the fact that it uses a lot of rope. Important so that both loops on the knot are of the same length, because when one carabiner is inserted into both loops, the load on the loops will be unevenly distributed.
3. Double conductor
How to knit:
4. Node "Grapevine"
Quite difficult to knit, but one of the most reliable knots for tying two ropes of the same or different diameters. Personally, when I need to reliably tie two ropes, I always use this knot, and for 5 years it has never let me down. In the photo, two ropes of different diameters are tied with a "grapevine".
How to knit:
5. Arbor knot, or "bowline"
One of the universal knots, knits simply, does not untie and does not tighten under load, after application you can simply untie. For what it is not used, starting from attaching a carbine to a rope and a gazebo, ending with an almost ideal knot for rescue and self-rescue, with a certain preparation, you can quickly tie a knot around yourself with one hand. There is, of course, one drawback, with a variable load, the knot begins to "crawl", but this is solved by tying a "control" knot at the small end of the rope.
Even in folk art this knot was mentioned :)
Bowlin is not a woman's fun, but you took it up to knit,
Get out of here, woman, before the blood is shed!
The bowline will be untied noiselessly, and the scream will melt into silence.
Don't trust the young maiden to hang the belay on the wall.
How to knit:
6. Grasping knot, Prusik knot
One of my favorite sites because it is very simple and very useful. With the help of two such knots, you can easily and relatively safely climb the rope (as I will tell you at the end of the article), the knot is also used for belaying when descending on a rope, working at height, etc.
To do this, the Prusik from the safety rope is tied to the main one, and the free ends of the safety rope are tied and fastened into a carabiner attached to the gazebo. As you descend or ascend, Prusik moves by hand along the main rope, and when falling (jerking, applying a load to Prusik) immediately clamps the rope and prevents it from falling.
Important: The Prusik knot must be knitted on the main rope (for example) with a diameter of 11 mm, with a cord with a diameter of 5-6 mm. If you tie a Prusik with a cord of 9-10 mm. on an 11 mm rope, it will not hold.
Prusik Knot:
How to knit:
7. Knot "Stirrup"
In my opinion, the simplest of all knots, since there is no need to knit anything, just fold the rope in a certain way. The stirrup is used to attach a rope or a rope to the leg when climbing on a rope with zhumar or Prusik's knot.
It does not untie and does not drag on, because there is nothing to untie and drag on.
Stirrup
How to knit:
8. Carabiner noose.
A knot used to attach a rope to a support (wood, metal structure, etc.). One of the simplest and fastest-tying (or rather, quick-fastening) knots. First, at the end of the rope an ordinary "Eight" loop is knitted, then the carabiner is fastened into the figure eight, the rope is looped around the object and the free part of the rope is fastened into the carabiner.
Carabiner noose
These are all the knots that I most often use in practice and which have proven to be reliable and good knots. Now let's move on to the next part of our article.
_________________________________________________
ROPES, SAFETY BELTS, LANDING DEVICES
With the knots finished, let's move on to another alps gear.
Of course, the main thing of all mountaineering equipment is the rope. The rope should be good, strong, the braid should fit tightly to the base of the rope, between the braid and the base should not be felt for a void. For descent / ascent / rescue or belaying a person, a special rope that has been tested and designed for this must be used. I know some comrades who used a rope from a hardware store for climbing rope, what to do strictly prohibited.
And after a week of using the "khoztovar" rope, one of these comrades flew merrily from a 6-meter height, and he was very lucky that he got off with bruises and slight fright. So a bad rope is the road to the next world, and the choice of rope must be approached thoroughly.
But what if in sports and climbing shops a good rope costs about 12-14 kilo rubles for 50-60 meters, a rope is needed, but there is no such money? For many years now I have been actively using the VPS-30 fire rope, 30 meters long (there is an option of 50 m.)
it is also used by the fire brigade and rescuers in Moscow. The rope is tested and designed for lifting, lowering, rescuing people and self-rescue of firefighters and rescuers, the rope is domestic, the workmanship is excellent. And its main feature is the cost, in 2013 I bought 30 meters for a thousand rubles, now 30 meters costs about 1,500, it is sold in stores of fire equipment.
VPS-30, fire and rescue rope.
Rope passport:
With the ropes sorted out, now let's move on to the descenders.
Personally, I like the standard figure eight (not to be confused with the knot) most of all, for its simplicity and reliability. An eight costs about 200-300 rubles, it is sold in any sports store where there are goods for mountaineering. It's easier to buy an eight than to go down on all sorts of knots that spoil the rope, such as "UIAA".
To descend in a figure eight, you need to thread a rope through it as shown in the photo, fasten with a carabiner into the gazebo and adjust the speed by holding the rope going down with your right hand to start the descent.
The more you pull the rope, the lower the speed.
You should never let go of the lower end of the rope, if you let it go, you will fall down. Therefore, when descending with a figure eight, it is recommended to use the belay using the Prusik knot.
The descender is an ordinary figure eight, with a carbine and a correctly threaded rope.
With the descent on the rope, everything is clear, but how do you climb it? For this, Zhumars are used. This is an expensive metal structure that acts as a rope clip. And how to get up in the absence of such, or in an emergency when the zhumar is not at hand?
The rope can be climbed using two prusik knots. One is knitted from the cord on the main rope and fastened into the arbor, the other, also from the cord, is knitted on the ropes below the level of the first one, and with the help of the "Stirrup" is put on the right leg. After the leg rises, the Prusik, which on the leg moves with his hand up and stops there, the leg straightens, the person seems to stand on the rope, and advances the upper prusik, attached to the harness even higher. And this cycle is repeated until the desired height is reached. For those who do not really understand how it is, I suggest watching a short video, where everything is explained in detail.
That's all, thank you all for your attention, observe safety precautions when working with alpine equipment!
