Hugo Boss began his career in 1902 as a worker in a garment factory in Metzingen. In 1908 he became the owner of a textile shop, which was left to him by his deceased parents. He fought on the fronts of the First World War. In 1923 he created his own sewing company, which was on the verge of bankruptcy in 1930. To save his business, Hugo joined the Nazi Party in 1931. At his factory, uniforms are sewn for SS assault units (Adolf Hitler's personal security), SA stormtroopers and the Hitler Youth youth movement.
The Wehrmacht uniform during the Second World War was sewn at the Hugo factory. He was the official tailor of the Nazis. Slaves from the Baltic countries, Russia, France, Belgium, Italy, Austria, Poland, Czechoslovakia worked for him. After the end of the war, the seamstress drastically reorganized his business into a workwear and civilian uniform market. He was recognized as an accomplice of the Nazis and died in 1948. The sewing business passed to his son-in-law Eugen Holi. Since 1985, Eau de Toilette has been produced with the American company Procter & Gamble.
Several years ago, a scandal erupted around the published facts about the involvement of the world famous brand "Hugo Boss" in the creation of military uniforms for soldiers and officers of the Wehrmacht. Famous designer Hugo Bossa accused of aiding the Nazis and personal ties with Hitler. The company even turned to historians for help to sort out the issue. Although the results of scientific research refuted many of the popular myths about the designer, the company had to admit the fact that the Nazis created the uniform and apologize for the exploitation of prisoners of war and prisoners from concentration camps in the factories.
In those days, the name of Hugo Boss was not yet a well-known brand. He began his professional career as an employee of a garment factory in 1902. 6 years later he inherited a textile shop from his parents, and in 1923 Hugo Boss opened his own sewing enterprise - a workshop for sewing workwear, windbreakers, overalls and raincoats for workers ... In 1930, his firm was on the verge of bankruptcy. To save her from ruin, he started sewing Wehrmacht uniforms.
Rumors that the world famous company "Hugo Boss" profited from cooperation with the Nazis, appeared in the late 1990s, stirred up society and caused a scandal. In 1997, the company publicly acknowledged its collaboration with the Nazis. Since this negatively affected the brand's image, the company sponsored a scientific study of these facts, which was carried out by the Munich historian Roman Kester. In 2012, he published a book called Hugo Boss, 1924-1945. A garment factory between the Weimar Republic and the Third Reich ”, in which he detailed the results of his research.
As it turned out, Hugo Boss was really engaged in sewing military uniforms for the Wehrmacht and received large profits from these orders. And the factory used the forced labor of 140 immigrants from Poland and 40 French prisoners. However, no written evidence has survived that Hugo Boss was Adolf Hitler's personal tailor. In addition, the designer did not participate in the development of sketches and the creation of patterns, and his factory was one of many, far from the largest, of all the companies that were engaged in sewing uniforms.
In fact, the designer of the black SS uniform was not Hugo Boss, but Karl Diebitsch, a German artist, designer and SS officer, and the SS emblem in the form of two runes "Sieg" was designed by graphic artist Walter Heck. The black color of the uniform of the SS officers was intended to inspire respect and fear, but it soon turned out that this color has a significant drawback: in the summer, it absorbs solar radiation and provokes profuse sweating. Therefore, the black color was soon replaced by gray, although black continued to be used in the ceremonial uniforms of officers of the highest echelon of the SS. Hugo Boss's factory was only engaged in sewing uniforms designed by Karl Diebitsch.
But the fact that Hugo Boss collaborated with the Nazis not under duress, but out of personal convictions, was confirmed even by his son. In 2007, Siegfried Boss publicly admitted that his father was a member of the Nazi Party and commented on this fact: “ And who was not a member at the time? The whole industry worked for the Nazis". Back in 1931, the designer voluntarily joined the National Socialist Workers' Party of the NSDAP and was himself a staunch Nazi. This was the main reason why his factory was registered as an important military enterprise and received a large order for tailoring the Wehrmacht uniform. German historian Henning Kober claims that all of the Hugo Boss leadership were Nazis and Hitler supporters.
After the end of the war, the factory again began to manufacture overalls for postmen, police officers and railroad workers. And its owner was tried, he escaped prison, but was sentenced to a fine of 100 thousand marks. However, later Hugo Boss was partially rehabilitated, and his status was changed: from the "accused" he turned into a "sympathetic". In 1948, the designer passed away at the age of 63. His company became a world famous brand after his death.
Following the publication of Roman Kester's book, Hugo Boss posted a statement on its website stating “ deep regret for the suffering suffered by those who had to work in the factory of Hugo Boss under the Nazis", Which recognized the legitimacy of the conclusions of the historian.
And in the world of fashion, the uniforms of the Third Reich, created by the "Hugo Boss" company, are considered the most beautiful and stylish military uniform. In the 1990s. even a new movement was born - Nazi chic - Nazi chic. It was especially popular in Japan, where neo-Nazi organizations appeared. True, such a fashion is dictated rather not by aesthetic preferences, but by socio-political views, and is very far from ethical considerations - what is called "beyond good and evil."
Similar rumors circulated about the founder of another famous brand:
Hugo Boss was born on July 8, 1885 in Metzingen, Baden-Württemberg. He studied at the People's School (German Volksschule) and until 1899 attended the Real School (German Realschule). For three years he studied merchant business in Bad Urach.
In 1902 Boss went to work in a weaving mill in Metzingen. After completing military service from 1903 to 1905, he worked at a weaving factory in Constanta.
In 1908, after the death of Hugo's parents, Boss took over their textile shop in Metzingen. In the same year, he married Anna Katharina Freysinger. From this marriage was born a daughter, Gertrud (Gertrud), who in 1931 married a sales agent Eugen Holy (German Eugen Holy).
In 1914, Hugo Boss went to the front with the rank of Obergefreiter and retired from the army in the same rank in 1918. Nothing is known about his active participation in the First World War. In 1923, Hugo Boss founded a small garment factory in Metzingen for the production of workwear and sportswear.
In 1930, his company was threatened with bankruptcy. On April 1, 1931, Hugo Boss joined the NSDAP (membership number 508889) and thereby saved his factory, having received a party order for the production of uniforms for the SA, SS and Hitler Youth, other Nazi paramilitary structures and the Wehrmacht.
These are the black uniforms for the SS (SchutzStaffel), the famous brown shirts for the SA stormtroopers (Sturmabteilung), and the black and brown uniforms for the Hitler Youth.
Karl Diebitsch became the author of the black SS uniform, as well as many regalia of the Third Reich. He was born in 1899. Will die many years after the end of World War II in 1985. He also served in the SS as Oberführer. He designed the SS uniform with graphic designer Walter Heck. Diebitsch also designed the Ahnenerbe logo and crosses for SS officers. By the way, Diebitsch was also the director of the Porzellan Manufaktur Allach porcelain factory in 1936 before the factory was transferred to the SS and moved to Dachau.
Walter Heck, graphic artist, was also SS Hauptsturmführer. It was he who, in 1933, developed the SS emblem, combining two "Zig" runes (the "zig" rune - lightning in ancient Germanic mythology was considered a symbol of the god of war Thor). He also designed the CA emblem.
The company soon became one of the main manufacturers of military and paramilitary uniforms. With the outbreak of World War II, his factory was declared an important military enterprise and received an order for the manufacture of a Wehrmacht uniform. However, Hugo Boss was only one of 75,000 German private tailors who were lining up the army.
Production continued throughout the war. The firm received colossal profits from the National Socialist state.
According to one of the versions, Hugo Boss and his team could have been the personal tailors of the Fuhrer and the Reich hierarchs, at least it is clear that the company enjoyed their patronage.
The expansion of production and profits of the factory was facilitated by the use of slave labor by citizens of the occupied countries, who were kept in inhuman conditions and exploited in the most inhuman way. During the war years, the company used the forced labor of 140 Poles and 40 French prisoners. After the defeat of the Reich in 1945, the Allies tried Hugo Boss. But he, having convinced the court that he became a Nazi but necessary, escaped prison, he was sentenced to a huge fine of 100 thousand marks. “Of course my father belonged to the Nazi Party,” says 83-year-old Siegfried Boss today. "But who didn't belong to her then?"
Boss Work SA Assault Units
Caps SS and GESTAPO designed by Hugo Boss
Collection autumn 1934-winter 1935
Collection 1935, Berlin
Hitler's costume, designed by Hugo Boss, 1935, from a women's magazine
After the war, Boss quickly switched to sewing uniforms for police officers, railroad workers and postmen, as well as work clothes. After the death of Hugo Boss in 1948, his son-in-law Eugen Holi took over the firm. In 1953, Hugo Boss launched the first men's suit. In 1967 the company passed into the hands of Eugen Holi's children, Uwe and Jonen.
1946: The factory nearly burns out again: Hugo Boss is accused of collaborating with the Nazis, fined 80,000 marks and deprived of the right to vote.
1948: Hugo Boss dies and the company is headed by his son-in-law Eugen Holi. Hugo Boss again specializes in railroad and postman uniforms.
1953: Hugo Boss launches the first men's suit. This is a turning point in the history of the company: it begins to move away from the mass production of clothing and gradually move closer to the world of Haute Couture.
1967: Uwe and Jochen Hawley, children of the former CEO and grandchildren of the founder, take over at the head of the company. They are the ones who turn the brand into a world famous fashion brand.
1970s: Hugo Boss is growing rapidly. First, the firm becomes Germany's largest manufacturer of menswear. Secondly, the company is becoming an influential fashion house.
1972: Hugo Boss sponsors the first Formula 1 races and golf and tennis championships.
1975: The talented fashion designer Werner Baldessarini starts working with Hugo Boss.
1984: launch of the brand's perfume line.
1993: the company becomes the property of the Italian holding Marzotto SpA (currently Valentino Fashion Group). The Hawley brothers leave the facility. Peter Littman becomes the CEO of the company. He splits the brand into lines with different target audiences: Boss with classic clothing, Hugo with bold youth models, Baldessarini with luxury products.
1996: Appearance of the Hugo Boss Award for Achievement in Contemporary Art.
1997: the company receives a license to manufacture watches together with the Swiss brand Tempus Concept.
2000: The men's brand begins producing collections of clothing for women. Hugo Boss, again accused of collaborating with the Nazis, joins the Remembrance, Responsibility, Future Foundation. It is providing £ 500,000 in compensation to former forced laborers.
2002: the emergence of the brand's children's line.
2004: opening of a boutique of 1,100 m2 in Paris at 115 Champs Elysees.
2005: Launch of the Boss Skin line of cosmetics for men and obtaining a license for the production of glasses.
2006: First collaboration between Folker Kahele, creative director of Hugo Boss and leader of the Jamiroquai group Jay Kay. The joint JK for Hugo collection includes biker jackets and gloves, trousers, jersey items.
2007: Private equity firm Permira acquires a majority stake in the Hugo Boss Group. The Baldessarini brand is bought by Werner Baldessarini. Hugo Boss launches Boss Selection line, replacing the brand sold.
2008: Obtaining a license for the joint production of women's jewelry with the Swarovski brand.
2009: Launch of the Samsung Hugo Boss mobile phone.
2009: The number of people employed at Hugo Boss exceeds 9 thousand.
2012: publication of the book by Roman Kester “Hugo Boss, 1924-1945”, ordered by the company management. The work tells about the times of the factory's collaboration with the Nazis.
Today Hugo Boss is one of the most recognizable fashion houses. The main shareholder of the company is Valentino Fashion Group. The general manager is Bruno Sälzer. The company's designers were Werner Baldessarini, Andrea Canelloni, Jose Hang, Volker Keichele, Bruno Peters, Graham Black, Eian Allen, Karin Busnel, Bart de Becker.
Abstracting from all world conflicts, during the forties of the last century, and paying attention to the appearance of German soldiers, it is worth noting that they paid enough attention to this aspect.
It is worth paying tribute to those people who created the uniform for soldiers and officers. They did it with taste and not without some panache. The German form of the Nazis compares favorably with many armies in the world.
In particular, it is worth noting the SS units, the so-called guard detachments. In which the officer corps stood out among the rest. But at the same time, an ordinary ordinary soldier, against the background of ordinary soldiers, was noticeable.
Black SS uniform and its history
The security detachments themselves (later they began to be called punitive) appeared in the twenties. And their original purpose related to Hitler's own protection. The unit was a kind of special forces. At that time, the uniform of an SS officer was not very different from that of a regular army. The main insignia were shoulder straps and stripes.
Closer to the forties, the battalions grew and took on more responsibilities. At the same time, their appearance changed. The dress uniform of the SS has become everyday. Changed color, sewing uniforms and insignia.
A black uniform was sewn for the SS officers.
The war swept across Europe and the Soviet Union. And the fascists, almost everywhere, were remembered as occupiers and conquerors. And the punitive detachments were deposited in the memory of the Soviet people with great hatred. The black uniform of the SS troops caused fierce anger among the partisans in Belarus.
At the beginning of the formation of security battalions, a special distinctive feature was one shoulder strap. But with the beginning of military operations, the German SS uniform received two shoulder straps. They now belonged entirely to military formations.
Also, a feature that distinguished the uniform of the Wehrmacht and SS soldiers was the wearing of insignia. For SS-ts, they were attached exclusively to the left buttonhole. And the officer's headgear had edging. Since the mid-thirties, the eagle has become the badge.
Untersturmführer's tunic of the infantry unit Since the head of the SS, Heinrich Himmler, was an inveterate Nazi and divided the whole world into Aryans and not, a soldier of non-German origin did not have the right to wear some chevrons and signs. Black uniforms were forbidden to them.
At the same time, the "true" Aryans wore a metal fleece on their left breast pocket. And depending on the rank - some special stripes.
The shoulder straps of the SS troops were not much different from the shoulder straps of the regular army. Only the officers had small differences, in the form of a metal edging.
Wehrmacht and SS uniforms
The military uniform of the Wehrmacht and the SS was very different. The outfit of the latter can rightfully be considered special. Unlike the usual form of Nazi Germany for soldiers, not to mention the field divisions, the SS form stood out with a certain originality.
The German officer uniform had a cap.
Namely, there are special seams on her ring. They differed in color, depending on the affiliation of the unit to certain troops.
On the crown was an eagle, and on the fringe was a skull with bones under it. A little below, there was a special lace, usually of a silvery color. It was fastened with buttons, the same as on the soldier's uniform.
The highest ranks of the SS wore about the same caps, but the band was made of black velvet, and the buttons, in some cases, were made of silver.
An ordinary SS-sheep, wore a cap only with ceremonial uniforms. And the cap was different in that instead of a lace, there was an ordinary leather train.
The form of Nazi Germany for the SS troops was developed especially carefully. Everything was foreseen in it. Even underwear was sewn on purpose so as not to hinder movement. The material of manufacture was, as a rule, cotton.
- Shirts they were made of wool and were cut so as to fully retain body heat. But at the same time, they were free and did not interfere with movement. But wool was soon abandoned. Such shirts were abolished and switched to cotton. The reason for this was the unusually strong thorniness of the material;
- Pants and tunic They were sewn quite elegant, among other things, they were durable. Since viscose was added to the wool from which they were made. That significantly increased the service life and service;
- Pants were with a high belt and were worn with suspenders until the forty-third year. The high waistband was designed to keep warm and was practical in terms of additional pockets;
- Overcoat since its inception, it has not undergone major changes. Closer to hostilities, only the color of her collar changed. Ordinary soldiers also wore a harness on top of their overcoat, on which all the necessary accessories were attached - weapons, ammunition, a flask, etc.
The shoes of the SS soldiers were ordinary boots. The officers had lacquered boots.
The distinctive marks were on the shoulders, sleeves and chest. They also stood out with edging on some elements of clothing.
Nazi female uniform
The German female form of the SS units was not much different from the male one. Because women tend to be engaged in auxiliary tasks. For example, communication.
They wore skirts instead of trousers. But if a signalman was needed in a zone of military conflict, then women also wore pants and boots.
The main difference from the male uniform was the headdress.
Women, for the most part, wore caps. They differed from men's only in the absence of sides. And it was made of black wool.
The unique insignia was a black silk cuff band. Which was worn on the left hand. Also, women wore special silver fasteners, which in their kind were a kind of insignia and were a reward for achievements.
Otherwise, there were no differences in colors, borders and edging. Both the rank and file and the officers of the female SS units.
Marks of Excellence
The insignia of the soldiers and officers of the SS units differed from the insignia of the regular army. Moreover, there were additional patches and emblems. By the way, later (already in the post-war years) they were inherited by the Bundeswehr divisions.
First of all, it is worth highlighting the emblems for hats. Cockades and additional signs. In the period from the twenties to the forties, they changed. For example, the imperial sign was replaced with an eagle, and a jaw was added to the skull.
The buttonholes and shoulder straps of soldiers and officers were very diverse. As well as senior command personnel. The difference in symbolism, in addition to everything, was supplemented by edging of different colors, which determined the belonging to one or another branch of the army.
In addition, along with the uniform, the officers were given a pennant and a cover for it. Such signs, without fail, had to be fixed on the cars of the officer corps.
Armbands were also the insignia of special SS units.
Fascist uniform, photo armband SS-Kampfbinde Above all, the soldiers had their own specialization. And each specialist was obliged to wear a special patch on his sleeve, which visually made it clear to which qualifying family the soldier belongs.
These insignia were special, in contrast to the regular troops of Nazi Germany. Otherwise, all military awards and badges were similar to the rest of the soldiers and officers.
Colors were also a distinctive feature of the SS uniform.
The color of the SS uniform determined the unit to which the troops belonged:
| Colour | Type of army |
| White | Staff |
| Red | Artillery |
| Black | Engineers and sappers |
| Yellow | Connection |
| Citric | |
| Golden | Cavalry and reconnaissance |
| Pink | Tank |
| Dark green | Specialist officers |
| Navy blue | Sanitary |
| Light blue | Supply |
| Orange | Field gendarmerie |
| Light brown | Employees |
| Light gray | Generals |
| Crimson | Veterinarians |
| Burgundy | Judges |
| Blue | Economic management |
Conclusion
During the existence of military units (almost twenty-five years), the uniform of SS officers and soldiers has changed more than once. But for the most part, the uniforms of the Wehrmacht and the SS remained the same. Only a few insignia were added or colors and materials changed.
During the war years, the officer and general uniform changed. Towards the end of the war, some components were canceled. For example, suspenders and wool shirts. And also added, some, pea jackets. For fighting in cold conditions.
But shoulder straps and officer insignia have always remained unchanged. Moreover, some of them exist in our time. But already in the regular troops of the German army.
