Private bussiness
Born: 07/29/1973
Country Russia
Specialization: mountaineering
Achievements: conquered all 14 eight-thousanders of the world without oxygen tanks, the CIS record holder for climbing eight-thousanders (21 times)
Although K2 is 237 m lower than Everest, it is more difficult to conquer it. The slopes here are steeper, and the weather even in summer changes instantly and almost always for the worse. In winter, the mountain turns into a real ice hell. Wind speed - up to 20 m/s, temperature - -50°C. Under such conditions, none of the 11 known routes on K2 seems realistic, but Denis Urubko suggests the 12th - on the wind-sheltered, but extremely avalanche-prone northeast side. He is sure that this route will pass:
1. I'm sure, because I'm going to K2 in winter for the second time. Denis made his first attempt in a group with Krzysztof Wielicki, Piotr Morawski and Marcin Kaczkan in 2002–2003. At that time, only 750 m remained before the peak, when Kachkan became too ill and the climbers had to turn back. And it was already a record. Neither before nor after them did anyone manage to climb above the 7860 m mark in winter, although attempts were made. So, in the winter of 2011, the Russian expedition to K2 ended in the death of one of the participants.
2. I am sure, because behind him are ascents without oxygen to all 14 eight-thousanders of the Earth (Denis is the eighth in history who was able to do this). In total, Urubko climbed to a height of more than 8000 m already 21 times and did it more than once in winter. So, in 2009, for the first ever winter conquest of Mount Makalu (China-Nepal, 8485 m), he received the Eiger Award, nicknamed the mountaineering "Oscar"; in 2012 for a similar feat on Gasherbrum II (China-Pakistan, 8034 m) - Golden Piton.
He also has two Golden Ice Axes (Piolet d "Or - an international award for outstanding achievements in mountaineering, annually awarded by the French magazine Montagnes). In 2014, Denis was on the jury of Piolet d" Or. But in 2015, if the expedition to K2 is successful, he will receive this award himself - and, most likely, more than one.
Mount K2
She is Chogori, Godwin-Austen and Dapsang.
1856 An expedition exploring the Karakorum mountain system located between China, India and Pakistan discovers the second peak, which is designated on the map as K2 (Karakoram-2).
1954 First successful attempt to conquer K2 after many failures. The expedition of the Italian Ardito Desio ascended the peaks.
1987 An American expedition climbs K2 and declares it the highest mountain in the world. Their instruments showed a height of 8858 to 8908 m, which is higher than Everest (8848 m), but in the same year these data were refuted.
2007 Russian expedition conquers K2 from the western wall - the most difficult way up, where climbers have to overcome an almost sheer wall several kilometers high.
The complex “Ready for Labor and Defense” revived in Russia is a voluntary matter. No one has the right to send a schoolchild, student or employee of an organization to pass the standards for running, long jumps and pull-ups. However, in practice it happens otherwise. So, Russians who are far from sports are increasingly having to understand their rights and obligations in order to understand whether it is necessary to pass the TRP or not.
What is GTO
To register for the delivery of TRP standards, identification documents and a medical certificate are required
The law on the introduction of TRP standards in the country was signed by Vladimir Putin in October 2014. In fact, it was a revival of the “Ready for Labor and Defense” complex that already existed in the Soviet Union, which contributed to the familiarization of citizens with mass sports, the development of a system of physical education and the strengthening of the patriotic spirit. It was possible to pass the TRP standards in the USSR from 10 to 60 years. For each age group, the standards were different. Among the disciplines in which athletes could demonstrate their skills were:
- long jump and high jump;
- swimming;
- ball throwing;
- pull-up;
- ski racing;
- shooting.
For the successful delivery of these and a number of other standards, badges were relied - silver and gold. Those who successfully coped with the standards for several years in a row could count on the "Honorary TRP Badge".
In the Russian Federation, the complex was reanimated, restoring what existed before 1991. Even the details are preserved. At the same time, both the tasks and the content of the TRP remained the same. According to the new structure of the complex developed in the depths of the Ministry of Sports of the Russian Federation, which received a fresh decoding of the abbreviation (“I am proud of you, Fatherland!”), 11 types of test difficulty were identified:
- from the first to the fifth - for schoolchildren;
- sixth - for young people from 18 to 29 years old;
- seventh - for those who are from 30 to 39 years old;
- eighth - for 40-year-olds;
- ninth - for 50-year-olds;
- tenth - for 60-year-olds;
- eleventh - for those who are 70 years old.
Is it necessary to pass the standards: pros and cons
You can apply for testing via the Internet, indicating your data, preferred place and time of the event
The norms "Ready for work and defense" in today's version have both supporters and opponents. At the same time, the appearance of the latter is primarily due to the fact that the voluntary surrender of sports standards in the field is increasingly becoming mandatory-compulsory.
Hence the many disadvantages of the complex:
- the pursuit of mass character to the detriment of attention to specific people;
- an attempt to repeat what was once in the USSR, without serious adaptation of a number of moments of the TRP to the realities of the modern world;
- excessive requirements for participants in the delivery of standards;
- insufficient development of sports infrastructure (remoteness of sports facilities and poor organization at the delivery sites);
- difficulties with organizing a reward system for those who rent the complex (much of what was announced in 2014 remained in the plans);
- insufficiently clearly done work to promote the complex.
Another disadvantage is the regularly arising scandalous situations associated with the complex. Outraged parents report such facts on social networks. Moms and dads complain that in some educational institutions it is necessary to pass the standards not only for excellent students in sports, but for everyone without exception. Even for those with health problems. Otherwise, students may face some difficulties: low marks in physical education and conflicts with the leadership of the educational institution and the class teacher.
The teachers, however, are not happy with this either. In many educational institutions, teachers go to the trick. Schoolchildren are encouraged, if not to try to pass the standards, then at least to register on the official website of the complex as those who want to compete for a gold or silver badge (and thereby increase the performance of their school).
A similar incident happened in Orsk, Orenburg region. Here, parents of students from one of the local educational institutions received text messages from teachers demanding that they immediately register their children for passing the standards. In another class of the same school, children complained that they were forced to submit applications for passing the TRP standards directly from the classroom - from their smartphones.
Alas, such cases are no exception. In addition to schoolchildren, students of some colleges and higher educational institutions are required to pass the standards.
It is possible that the roots of this are connected with the statement of the former Minister of Education of the Russian Federation Dmitry Livanov. Being an active supporter of the return of the standard, the ex-minister once mentioned that in 2016 all Russian schoolchildren would have the opportunity to pass the standards of the complex. And his words were immediately replicated with some distortion of meaning. So, the ex-head of the Russian Ministry of Education was credited with the assertion that "for all schoolchildren, the possibility of passing the TRP will become mandatory." Although, in fact, there was not a word about the acquisition of a mandatory status by the complex.
Therefore, the correct answer to the question about the obligation to pass the standard “I am proud of you, Fatherland!” - one: for all in a row it is optional. To pass or not to pass, the person himself decides, as well as the doctors who will check the health of the athlete before going to the start.
Rewarding for passing TRP standards makes sports and recreation events look like the Olympic Games for everyone
By the way, a positive answer to the question “Is it necessary to pass the TRP standards?” also has a right to exist. And these moments are connected with the advantages of the complex.
For example, passing the standard is mandatory for those who want to get additional points to the results of the school exam (back in 2015, several constituent entities of the Russian Federation took such a measure as an experiment in order to increase the number of passing standards). At the same time, the number of points awarded in all areas for schoolchildren is different. But often they are just enough for admission to a budget place in the university of interest.
Passing the TRP is mandatory for those who:
- in a few years he expects to receive a special insignia - gratitude from the President of the Russian Federation for the regular delivery of standards;
- counts on an increased scholarship in a higher educational institution (a number of state institutions and universities already pay it in a larger amount to holders of gold badges);
- I would like to have an increase in salary (in some organizations, on their own initiative, it was established for employees who earned a gold or silver badge - for example, in the capital's DOSAAF, such an allowance is 10% of wages);
- studies at the sports faculties of universities (the presence of a gold or silver badge in the asset for passing standards will help in exams).
In addition to the listed advantages of the complex, we can name the following advantages:
- increasing the interest of young people in sports;
- an opportunity for participants to evaluate their capabilities and improve their health;
- a chance to get rid of stress during the competition and relieve tension, which are many in the lives of adults and young athletes.
Passing the TRP standards cannot and should not be mandatory for everyone. This is stated in all Russian centers where testing takes place. Moreover, in many cases, attempts to achieve mass character and force everyone to pass the standards without exception can even be dangerous. This applies to moments when schoolchildren or students who do not have the necessary physical form are sent to difficult tests.
