The optimum comfortable temperature for adenium is the temperature of the content +25 +35 ° С. At room temperature below + 15 ° C, the plant will shed its leaves.
Watering: in summer, moderate, with drying of the substrate for 2-3 days, in winter - minimal. During the vacation period, adenium is removed from the sun in a brightly lit place with diffused light.
In general, since light, temperature, and watering are interrelated in plant care, watering should be reduced as light and temperature decrease and increased as light and temperature increase.
Adenium transplant. The main reasons for the transplant
When is a transplant necessary?
Firstly, transplanting is necessary if the plant is planted in a cramped pot.
Why can't a seedling be planted immediately in a large pot?
A non-drying substrate can affect the fact that the roots of the plant begin to rot.
It is better if you transplant the seedling during the growth period every 2-3 months, and the pot should be with a small margin. Only under these conditions will the plant develop well.
Young adeniums need transplanting during active growth once a year, older plants - less often - once every 2-3 years.
The roots of an adult plant are so strong that the pressure of the pot often does not withstand them, as a result of which it is not uncommon for the pot to burst.
Secondly, transplantation is necessary as a result of decay of roots and caudex. In this case, the adenium must be dug out, cut off the affected areas to healthy tissues, treated with a fungicide, thoroughly dried and planted in a new mixture.
In this case, replanting can save your plant from disease.
Thirdly, a transplant is needed if you initially got a flower planted in an unsuitable earthen mixture.
During the rest period, it is better not to take risks, it is better to start in the period before the beginning of the growing season.
Fourth, if initially, for example, adenium was planted in an oversized pot. Then the plant must be planted in a pot of a suitable size.
Once the conditions for transplanting meet all the requirements, water the plant about 2 days before transplanting. Moisture-infused flower, easy to transplant.
If it happens that during transplanting you damaged the roots or caudex, sprinkle the damaged areas with charcoal powder, or sulfur, Teovit Jet. Around 2-3 days, when the wounds dry up, a transplant is possible.
In a young adenium, the roots grow in breadth. With each transplant, the planting line is lowered by 2-3 cm, leaving part of the roots above the ground. This will give you a bansai plant.
When transplanting a young adenium, it is recommended to disturb the earthy ball as little as possible so as not to harm the roots.
When transplanting an adult plant, the roots of the plant are washed, they see if they are not damaged, and they are dried.
If you were planting a plant in a universal soil, then the recommendation would boil down to the following: take a handful of the mixture, squeeze and open your palm. If a slightly compressed lump of soil has formed on the palm of your hand, touch it with your finger, if it falls apart, it means that the earth corresponds to the required moisture. Only in this case should a transplant be done.
But specifically for the planting mixture for adenium, this method is not entirely suitable, since there are many rippers in the soil, which can lead to the collapse of even moderately moist soil.
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After transplanting, the plant should not be watered. Watering for adult adenium should be resumed a week after transplanting.
A young plant is watered after 3-4 days, seedlings - somewhere on the 2nd day. So that the top layer of the earth does not dry out, you can slightly moisten it once a day from a spray bottle if there is no damage to the caudex.
The plant does not need spraying.
Pot
Pot shape- another subtlety associated with the cultivation of adenium.
Since the adenium root is long in the first year of life, it is advisable to plant seedlings in a deep dish, for example, you can use a plastic cup. In a young plant, the roots, being in the ground, grow in breadth, moreover, they are thick and fleshy. Then use a regular standard pot of normal size. For bonsai cultivation, a bonsai pot is used.
The size of the seedling pot suggests that the distance from the widest part of the caudex to the side of the pot should be 2 to 3 cm.
The diameter of the pot should be such that it matches the diameter of the caudex of the roots at its widest point.
For a young plant, it is enough to choose a pot with a diameter of 3-4 cm, for an adult - 4-7.
Pot material
Better if it is plastic or clay without glaze.
A clay pot without glaze has water and air permeability, which is very important, since the likelihood of the plant being flooded is reduced. In addition, harmful salts are released through the walls, and plus, such a pot is stable.
However, over time, the air permeability decreases, which leads to a deterioration in the growing conditions of the plant. In addition, if the plant is on a cold windowsill, then clay, as a natural conductor of cold, can contribute to hypothermia of the roots. And in summer, summer overheating is possible, since clay is a good conductor of both heat and cold.
The release of salts required by plants does not decorate the aesthetic appearance of the pot.
A plastic pot is a poor conductor of both heat and cold, so a plant in a plastic pot is not threatened by temperature extremes. The roots are easily removed during transplantation, since they do not stick to the walls. Calcium salts are flushed out through the drain hole, so the appearance of the pot does not deteriorate. The price of a plastic one is much lower than a clay pot.
However, plastic pots give less moisture than clay pots, so you need to be careful with watering.
On the south window, brown plastic can become very hot, so it should not be placed there.
A plastic pot is more suitable for an adult plant than a young one, in which the caudex is not very developed and, due to this, the pot may be unstable.
When using this or that pot, you need to pay special attention to watering, light and take into account the thickness of the caudex of the plant and the diameter of the pot.
Substrate
Whatever mixtures are taken for planting, the main thing is that they are breathable, loose and quick-drying.
In the percentage composition, baking powder can be placed in the following order: somewhere 50% should be perlite; 20% vermiculitis; up to 20% small expanded clay; about 25% - expanded clay aggregate; 20% brick chips; 25% foam balls; coarse sand - 20%; clay granulant - 20%; small pieces of charcoal up to 20%.
The pot plays an important role in the composition of the mixture. In plastic pots, moisture lingers longer than in clay pots, so you should not get carried away with vermiculite in this case, but vermiculite will be very useful for clay pots.
The same must be taken into account for specific climatic conditions. Where the climate is cool, you should not get carried away when mixing components that retain moisture, but in hot climates the situation is the opposite.
The mixture must be safe.
The drainage should be a few centimeters. In this capacity, brick chips, expanded clay, pieces of polystyrene are suitable. Since pebbles are cold-conducting materials, they cannot be used as drainage, since root rot may occur.
An example of one of the best mixtures for growing adenium:
- for cool climates:
50% coconut fiber, 30% perlite, 10% expanded clay, 10% coal; - for hot climates:
50% coconut fiber, 20% perlite, 20% vermiculite, 10% coal
Sterilizing the soil
What is it for?
Since young plants are very sensitive to all kinds of diseases and pests that may be contained in the substrate intended for planting and sterilize the soil.
At home, this procedure can be carried out using a microwave oven, by heating in an oven, disinfecting over steam, in a saucepan, using chemicals, by freezing.
In a microwave oven, the substrate is disinfected either in a glass container or in a plastic pot. It is best not to put the factory bag in the microwave.
With this method of processing, you need to make sure that the average power is set, the processing time should be 10-20 minutes. Since the moisture goes away when heated, you need to pour some water into the container before the procedure, and also cover the container with a lid.
When heated in the oven, the substrate is spread on a baking sheet, do not forget to moisten it, cover it with foil, warm it up for 1 hour to 1.5 hours at a temperature of 150 degrees.
If you want to heat the substrate over steam, then you will need a colander, or an iron sieve. To prevent the earth from spilling out through the holes, cover it with a cloth. Heat the substrate over steam for at least 1 hour, making sure to add water to the pot as it evaporates.
A fairly simple method is to heat it in a saucepan. The substrate is poured into a saucepan, into which a small amount of water is poured. The pot is placed on the gas stove. After the lid of the pan starts to "bounce", reduce the gas a little and steam for 30 minutes. Do not remove the lid until the pan has cooled completely.
Fungicides (Maxim and Fitosporin) and insecticides / acaricides (for example, Intavir) are used as chemicals. After a week, it is advisable to repeat the procedure.
Freezing the substrate involves leaving the soil on the balcony for the winter, or placing it in the freezer. However, it must be remembered that frost does not affect all pests, therefore, the substrate is also treated with chemicals.
Sterilization of rippers and drains
Since for transplantation, in addition to the substrate, drainage and rippers are used, they should also be sterilized. The best way to do this is to sterilize it in a microwave oven. The ripper must be thoroughly wetted, use ceramics or glass for the dishes, set the temperature to the maximum, depending on the volume, the heating time should vary from 5 to 10 minutes. Sand and brick chips can be calcined in a non-Teflon skillet, and all other methods can be used to sterilize drainage as for soil.
Crown formation
Starting from 2-3 months, a young seedling should be pinched - it is necessary to remove from 0.5 to 2 centimeters of the top of the central conductor or side branches, and at the age of 12-18 months, you can already trim, that is, partially or completely remove shoots, branches, roots.
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Pruning is done in the spring 2-4 months after transplanting. During the rest period, neither pinching nor pruning is performed.
2 days before the beginning of crown formation, adenium should be watered so that the plant does not experience a water deficit.
The cut is done either with a paper cutter, a blade, or a stainless steel knife.
The cut is made 3-4 mm above the dormant kidney.
Wipe the blade with alcohol after each cut.
Wipe the juice secreted by the plant with a napkin.
As soon as the adenium ceases to produce juice, treat the cut site with garden balsam or RanNet garden paste.
After cutting, water should not get into the wounds, which can lead to decay of tissues.
If, 2-3 weeks after pruning, the number of replacing shoots does not suit you, the procedure can be repeated, but remember that the maximum pruning depth should be above the buds of the first pair of true leaves.
When forming the crown, do not forget that the plant produces poisonous juice and therefore hands must be washed with soap and water. And if you have wounds or abrasions on your hands, use gloves.
The neighbor decided to throw out her adenium, she says that it disappears anyway. I simply could not allow this, and took the flower for myself, because it seems to me that the land in which he grew up simply does not suit him. Unfortunately, I do not have such flowers, and what kind of soil this plant loves, I do not know. Tell me, what composition should the soil for adenium have?
When growing adeniums, correct watering alone is indispensable. Indeed, even if all the recommendations for caring for a plant in unsuitable soil are followed, it can not only refuse to grow and bloom, but also die.
In addition to the fact that the soil mixture should be nutritious, the balanced composition of the soil for adenium depends, first of all, on such indicators as:
- acidity,
- moisture and air permeability,
- sterility.
Basic soil requirements for adeniums
The land for planting the plant must have a neutral acidity level. When choosing ready-made substrates in stores, you must carefully read the information on the packaging. Acidic soil (with acidity below 5.8) or alkaline (with acidity above 7) is not suitable for. In the case of making an earthen mixture for a flower at home, special strips can be used to determine the acidity level.
The composition of the soil for adeniums should contain about 50% of baking powder.
In too dense and heavy soil, when irrigated, water passes very slowly through the layers of the earth. Such soil prevents air access and dries out for a long time, as a result of which moisture stagnates in the pot and leads to rotting of the root system.
However, when the proportion of disintegrants in the soil is too high, this significantly reduces its moisture capacity. Through such soil, when watering, water immediately flows out of the flowerpot, depriving the adenium of moisture and nutrients.
And of course, when preparing the soil mixture yourself, special attention should be paid to its sterility. So, when using sand and garden soil, they must first be disinfected (calcined or spilled with a solution of potassium permanganate).
Variants of soil mixture preparation
In the base for the mixture, you can use a ready-made substrate for succulents, provided that a sufficient amount of baking powder is added to it. So, adenium grows well in soil consisting of the following components:
- 50% soil for cacti,
- 25% perlite,
- 15% vermiculite,
- 10% sand (river).
Florists often use peat-based soil as well:
- 50% peat,
- 30% garden land,
- 20% vermiculite or river sand.
Video about the choice of soil for adenium
According to experts, there is no universal composition of soil for growing trees. However, there are several rules to consider when compiling a substrate:
- The soil should have a light structure, good water and oxygen permeability.
- The soil should not cake, so you need to add baking powder to it.
- The substrate should be selected moisture-consuming, while it is important to carefully choose the components that do not overmoisten the soil.
- The acidity of the earth should be closer to neutral.
Important. The correct choice of soil, if necessary, can compensate for the lack of light and humidity.
This will allow the plant to actively develop and bloom profusely, despite the small imperfections of the microclimate (at home?).
What kind of land should you plant?
Not only at home, but also outdoors. The requirements for the soil in both cases are practically the same, it is enough to comply with the criteria described above.
Planting at home
For growing Adenium at home you can prepare the soil yourself or use specialized substrates.
Stores offer a large selection of ready-made soil mixtures suitable for planting succulents.
Let's consider some of them:
- Universal primer for indoor flowers. Sold in all gardening shops, is fairly cheap, but may be of poor quality. Such substrates have a fairly dense structure and require a large number of leavening agents. The mixture is nutritious, but the composition of trace elements is not always suitable for Adenium.
- Special soil for succulents. It has an optimal composition and neutral acidity, but it is not sterile, it needs disinfection. It is quite expensive and is not sold in all stores. The mixtures are dense and water-absorbing, they require irrigation adjustment.
- Coco soil as a basis for self-preparation of soil for Adenium. Sterile substrate, sold in all specialized stores at an affordable price. Lightweight, breathable, durable, non-caking, with neutral acidity. The mixture is inert and requires the addition of fertilizers.
- Deciduous-humus earth... You can buy or get it yourself. When preparing the substrate, it is mixed with coco-soil and baking powder. Ideal for succulents but requires sterilization.
Attention. Adenium requires loose soil, so all the mixtures presented are mixed with baking powder.
Each grower has his own preferences, the main thing is to choose the right ratio. As baking powder, you can use:
- Perlite.
- Vermiculite.
- Zeolite.
- Coarse sand.
- Charcoal.
- Pumice.
- Brick chips.
When preparing the soil on your own, it must be disinfected from harmful microorganisms by calcining or treated with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate.
Landing on the street
- peat;
- coarse river sand;
- perlite or vermiculite.
DIY substrate preparation
Attention. The composition of the mixture for planting Adenium directly depends on the microclimate in which the plant will grow.
- Hot temperatures above +25 degrees all year round and bright light. In such conditions, nutrient-rich mixtures are better suited to maximize the full potential of the tree.
When composing the substrate, mix:
- 50-70% universal mixture for flowers or deciduous-humus soil.
- 20-30% vermiculite in half with perlite.
- 10-20% charcoal.
Organic additives can be used.
- A warm, bright room with a temperature of 22-25 degrees, additional lighting is used in winter. Less nutritious soil rich in minerals is used.
To do this, mix:
- 30% specialized mixture for succulents;
- 30% coco soil;
- 30% vermiculite and perlite in equal amounts;
- 10% charcoal.
- A darkened room with a temperature of up to 20 degrees. It is not recommended to grow a plant in such conditions, a suitable soil cannot always compensate for the lack of heat and light.
Suitable inert mixtures consisting of:
- 60% coco soil;
- 30% perlite and zeolite;
- 10% charcoal.
Important. The less light and heat, the poorer the soil should be.
Consequences of the wrong choice
- Strong acidity of the soil or, conversely, an alkaline environment leads to a disease of the tree (you can learn about possible problems, diseases and pests of adenium, and from you you will learn about the causes of diseases of the desert rose and methods of treatment). The plant cannot absorb nutrients and trace elements and stops developing.
- In moist and dense soil, the tree begins to rot, conditions favor the development of harmful microorganisms.
- Excessive nutritional value of the soil leads to lush foliage growth, with little or no flowering.
Adenium is an unusually beautiful plant that pleases with its flowering for a long time. The main condition for this is the choice of quality soil. Whether you buy a substrate in a store or cook it yourself, compliance with all the requirements for its composition will give you the opportunity to enjoy the view of a flowering plant all year round.
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