Home Blanks for the winter Do-it-yourself undercutter for a bottom fishing rod. Bottom fishing rod and feeder hooks. Making a self-chock for a feeder with your own hands

Blanks for the winter

Do-it-yourself undercutter for a bottom fishing rod. Bottom fishing rod and feeder hooks. Making a self-chock for a feeder with your own hands

It is not so difficult to make a hook for a bottom fishing rod with your own hands. But then a reasonable question arises, why is it needed? After all, all the pleasure of fishing lies precisely in hooking and playing fish. Here it is worth understanding the purpose of the bottom fishing rod as an auxiliary tool when fishing with several rods.

Often, when bottom fishing, you have to place the rods at a decent distance from each other due to the certain terrain.

In such a situation, an automatic undercutter will do a good job. You will be able to do something in parallel with fishing. For example, if you need to readjust one of the gear in the event of a break.

The autoswitching scheme is pretty simple. A typical drawing can be found on the Internet. If you nevertheless decide to make an automatic undercutter, pay attention to its design.

Auto-deflectors can be roughly divided into two classes:

The first ones are installed directly on the rod or next to it. Their essence lies in the tension of the main line with a rubber cord. In its absence, you can use several bank (stationery) rubber bands. A small lever is made of steel wire (an ordinary paper clip is suitable). A fishing line is attached to one side of the lever, and an elastic band under tension on the other. The lever is located in the first ring of the rod. When you pull the line horizontally, the lever pops out of the ring. Further, the elastic begins to contract, dragging the fishing line along.
In the second method, the undercutting mechanism is placed on a leash. The auto-landing takes place directly in the water. The essence of the method is again reduced to a spring mechanism. When biting, the fish releases one end of the lever, which is under tension. Straightening, the lever makes a sharp jerk of the main line, thereby hooking the fish.

An auto-deflector will help increase your catch. It will fire faster than you get near the rod.

Unusual options

We should also mention the interesting species invented by the people.

For example, the float's auto-choke:

in this case, the upper antenna is removed from the float;
a homemade foam rubber ring with a diameter slightly larger than the thickness of the antenna is put on it;
then the antenna is glued into place. The ring should move freely along the antenna;
a bead is attached on top;
when biting, the ring prevents the float from submerging into the water, hooking the fish.

If the fish is lifting, this method will be useless.

Self-chopper for a feeder, its use in fishing

The self-undercutting device for the feeder, as well as for other types of fishing tackle, refers to auxiliary devices, whose usefulness and effectiveness are determined by the time and circumstances of fishing. Such devices appeared not very long ago.

At first it was a variety of homemade gadgets, which savvy fishermen invented and manufactured for their fishing rods and zakidushki. Nowadays, many devices that facilitate automatic fish hooking are produced by industrial enterprises.

Purpose of automatic undercutters

As you know, the most active and interesting part of fishing begins at the moment when the fish bites. Some types of fish are careful, others are not very, begin to taste the bait. It is at this moment that you need to make effective striking... Such a hooking is quite possible if you fish with one rod, and even better - if you constantly hold it in your hands.

If you fish with several tackles, which is often the case in feeder fishing, you simply may not have enough time to react to the bite, run up to the desired rod and hook.

Self-guards for fishing, just in such cases, will be very useful. Their main purpose is hooking the fish on time and with the right effort, even without the participation of the fisherman in this process. These devices, during a bite, provide necessary jerk of the rig in automatic mode... Quite often, experienced anglers, on the basis of a self-developed design, make a self-propeller for spinning with their own hands.

Absolutely any fishing rods and bottom tackle can be equipped with such devices, designed for hooking fish without the participation of an angler. Most often, these mechanisms, depending on its device, equipped with ordinary zakidushki, feeder tackle and even float rods.

There is also a self-landing gear designed for spinning, although many anglers doubt its need, because fishing with a spinning rod assumes that the blank is in the hands of the angler all the time. It is rational to use an auto-set for spinning only when trolling or if the spinning rod is adapted for a feeder tackle.

An automatic fishing rod with an auto-saver comes in handy when long fishing, when the angler cannot constantly be with her, as well as in the case when fishing is carried out with several (sometimes 4 - 5) rods.

Depending on their design and manufacturer, these devices are divided into the following types:

Improved gear. This type includes floats and hooks, which, by making certain changes in their design, allow you to hook the fish without the participation of the fisherman.
Various homemade designs. As a rule, a do-it-yourself automatic fish trimmer and the scheme of its operation are based on the same principle of operation as a conventional mousetrap. The main driving force in them is either dense rubber or a tensioned spring of the required power.
Industrial devices. This type includes technological mechanisms that were originally designed for a particular tackle.

Fishermen often improve industrial designs of self-thrusters to suit their requirements, increasing or, conversely, somewhat weakening their sensitivity and force of action.

Features of different types of undercutters

The most important characteristic in the action of any automatic stripper is undoubtedly the force with which it acts on the prey. In accordance with the required impact force, the tension power of the springs or rubber used in the device is calculated. It is, as a rule, the more significant, the heavier the tackle for which the mechanism is intended. For example, a feeder stripper requires more actuation force than a donkey stripper with a short or no stick.

It is also important to consider the strength that is needed to removing the device from the safety lock and initiating the actual sweep. Stoppers and triggers, depending on the tackle, also come in different designs and power, but, what is imperative, they must all be sensitive enough to ensure that the device responds to any, most careful bite.

It should be borne in mind that an industrially manufactured fishing striker is designed for a specific tackle, with specific requirements, only if it comes with this tackle. The rest of the industrial mechanisms, which have different principles of operation and power, need to be matched to your gear yourself and, if necessary, modified.

A self-made undercutter always takes into account the characteristics of that rod, that tackle for which it was conceived and made. For example, a do-it-yourself spinning rod should take into account the following factors:

The weight and length of the spinning rod.
Approximate casting distance of lures. This is important for the approximate calculation of the weight of the rig in the water.
When fishing by trolling - the force of the current and the speed of the boat.
The size of the alleged trophies, their type, as well as how the bite of this type of fish usually occurs (carefully or quickly).

If an angler who makes his own automatic undercutter for his tackle manages to take all these factors into account and make a suitable device, the number of unnoticed or empty bites will be significantly reduced.

Anglers often use a variety of runners in combination with rubber bands or redesigned mousetraps when making undercutters for bottom gear. Also common are vertical struts, which are fixed in the ground or at the side of the boat, with powerful springs and appropriate stoppers.

Apart from all the devices for automatic fish hooking, there are floats and hooks.

A float that helps fish self-float is, as a rule, a regular float with an elongated central rod, supplemented by a disc of non-sinking material with a hole in the center for the upper part of the float rod and a special stopper (thickening) in the upper part of this rod. When biting, the main part of the float's body goes under the water, but at the end the stopper interacts with the disc, which sharply slows down its going under the water and contributes to the fish self-undercutting.

Self-locking hooks have a modified shape, somewhat similar to a spring, which contributes to its deep penetration into the fish's pharynx and its detection. Such hooks are produced by only a few foreign enterprises and are rarely found on sale. Their main disadvantage is that it is very difficult to free the caught fish from such a hook.

An example of a self-made self-chopper for a feeder

Let us examine one of the options for an automatic undercutter for a feeder, in which the rod is attached to the swinging element of the rack, like a rocker arm, and the undercutting occurs due to the compression of the spring. Such a mechanism can be done by hand. Its design and principle of operation is easy to understand by understanding the following diagram:

The numbers in the diagram indicate:

Rod (spinning).
The front bracket of the rocker arm on which the fishing rod is attached.
Rocker body.
Fastening the axis of the rocker arm to the rack around which it rotates.
Rear rocker bracket. The upper part of the spring is attached to it.
Spring.
Main undercutter post. It needs to be made from a stainless steel angle.
Holes on the main post. They are needed to strengthen or weaken the tensile force of the spring.
Shock absorbing rubber. It is necessary to soften the action of the spring.
Fastening the rubber to the bracket body.
Staple axis.
Trigger. It is made of steel and must have a certain bend in the upper part in order to be able to slide off the axis of the shackle during striking (it must be selected empirically).
Fastening the shackle axis to the rocker arm body.
Main line with rig.
Coil.

The mechanism is set up after fixing the main strut in the ground. Trigger sensitivity depends on the upper curvature of the trigger.

Useful video

In the video below, let's see an example of a self-chopper for a feeder in action:

Any self-chocking devices, industrial or self-made, are designed to help the angler when fishing and not allow the prey to leave when biting. But nevertheless, it is worth using them only under certain circumstances, when they cannot be dispensed with. After all, the joy of capturing a trophy that was cut independently is incomparably higher. And the kind of fishing in which such devices are used can in no way be called sports, but rather semi-automatic.

Simple undercutter for bottom tackle

Greetings to all DIY anglers. Today we will make a simple donkey self-chopper. The main advantage of this design is ease of manufacture; it can be made from available materials with a minimum set of tools. The disadvantages include the size and the need to level the site on the shore of the reservoir for its installation. This design has already been tested and proven to work. It may seem to someone that the spring is too powerful and the lever is triggered very sharply, but this is not so. In real fishing conditions, when the tackle is thrown into the water, the hook looks very different than in the workshop. It even seems that the power should be increased.

1. Vise.
2. Hammer.
3. Pliers.
4. Screwdriver.
5. Hacksaw for metal.
6. Hacksaw for wood (if necessary).
7. Drill and drills (optional).
8. Roulette.

1. Board.
2. Steel spring wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm.
3. Bicycle spoke.
4. Galvanized metal with a thickness of 0.7 mm.
5. Nail.
6. Eraser.
7. Self-tapping screws.

We take a 40 x 12 cm board as a basis for the undercutter. 1 cm thick. I will make a reservation right away, all sizes are very arbitrary and can vary.

The most time consuming part of the job is to bend the spring wire line catcher. We mark from the edge of the wire 5 cm.

We clamp it in a vice and bend it under 90 degrees.

We trim the resulting bend with a hammer. The main thing is to do everything slowly so that the wire does not burst at the bend.

Now we mark 8 cm from the bend, we also clamp it in a vice and bend it in the opposite direction.

The most important part of the job is to bend the wire 180 degrees. Mark 5 cm. Clamp it in a vice and, for a start, bend it under 90 degrees.

Now, using a screwdriver and a hammer, carefully bend the wire 180 degrees.

If everything works out, mark the center of the line catcher and bend it a little.

We apply the resulting blank to the base and mark the beginning of the spring bend.

We clamp with a vice and bend under 90 degrees. in the direction of the line catcher.

We mark the size approximately equal to half the width of the board and bend it under 45 degrees. to the plane of the undercut arm.

Mark 5 cm and cut off the excess with a hacksaw.

The lever with the spring is ready, now we will make a gate from a bicycle spoke.

We mark from the edge of the knitting needle 5 times, 2 cm.

We bend with pliers, forming a part, as shown in the photo.

On the other edge of the knitting needle, bend the hook for attaching the eraser.

Now you need to fix the resulting parts to the base. To do this, we will make four clamps from galvanized metal with a thickness of 0.7 mm.

We mark four segments of about 4 x 1.5 cm and cut off with a hacksaw.

Bend the lines in the center using the remaining piece of wire as a template. Also, if you have something, you can round off the edges.

Of course, it is better to drill holes in the clamps for self-tapping screws, but if there is nothing, then you can pierce it with a nail or a dowel.

We fasten all the parts to the base with self-tapping screws. It is better to put one clamp all the same on the screws and make it removable, although this is not necessary.

We bend the lever of the undercutter, mark the location of the gatehouse and screw it on.

To prevent the edge of the spring from pushing through the board, we install another metal plate. On the top of the gatehouse, we install an eraser with a slot to fix the fishing line or cord.

The self-propeller is almost ready, it remains to install one more detail, without which it will not work. Here's a hook.

It can be bent from a nail and hammered into the base. We found the finished one and will screw it into the base in the center of the line catcher.

Our undercutter is ready to go.
A little advice. To avoid accidental triggering of the undercutter when alerted, it can be fixed, for example, with a nail.

This design of the undercutter is designed for bottom tackle such as a zakidushka or an elastic band.

The principle of operation is as follows. We throw the tackle into the water, alert and fix the undercutter, thread the line into the hook.

We fix it in the slot of the eraser.

We remove the retainer and wait for a bite.

At the moment of a bite, the gatehouse disengages and the spring is triggered. Fish on the hook!
One clamp was made removable in order to fold the undercutter arm and make it convenient to transport it. We unscrew the clamp, move the lever to the edge of the base and put the clamp in place.

Nodes in more detail.

No tail or scales for everyone!

Watch a video about the manufacture of a mono self-deflector here.

Self-chopper for donkey

Fishing is a great leisure activity, but it takes a lot of time to be ashore and hold a fishing rod in your hands. Fishermen often go out for a snack, chat with friends or just relax. And at such moments, fishing stops. In order to be able to sometimes move away and not observe the bite, automatic hooks were invented. One of them is a donkey self-chopper.

What is an automatic fishing striker for?

If several bottom tackles are used when fishing, or the fisherman is simply distracted, you can miss the moment of a good bite. This is where donkey self-deflectors come in handy. They will be able to hook the fish in time without the participation of the fisherman - the construction will make an automatic dash. Fishing experts are able to make a bottom fishing rod with their own hands.

Types of automatic cutters

Such devices can be installed on any rod. Most often they are installed on simple zakidushki, feeders or fishing rods with floats. An automatic spinning guard becomes appropriate if a feeder tackle is installed on the rod.

Auto-deflectors can be installed:

On or near the rod. With this option, the line will be stretched using a rubber cord. If not, a simple rubber band will do. You will also need steel wire (or a simple paper clip) to make the lever. A fishing line will be attached to one side of it, and a stretched rubber cord on the other. The lever will be in the first ring of the rod. If the line pull is horizontal, the lever will pop out of the ring. Then the elastic will contract, and the fishing line will reach behind it.
On a leash. The sweep takes place right in the water. The jogging mechanism will be created on the basis of rubber or a spring. At the time of the bite, one of the taut ends of the lever will be released. After the lever is straightened, it will make a sharp dash, and the fish will be out of the water.

Both options allow you to increase the fish catch several times. The main thing is that the mechanism for their work is installed correctly.

Fishermen are constantly improving designs, making them as comfortable as possible for their rod. Some make them with their own hands from improvised means, others buy ready-made undercutters to modify the mechanism.

There are several types of automatic sub-slicers:

Improved tackle. Some changes are made to the design of the hook and float, thanks to which the hooking will be automatic.
Homemade construction. A self-made autoswitch is similar in principle to a mousetrap: its movement is based on either rubber or a spring.
Industrial undercutters. These designs are made for specific gear.

Anglers can buy an industrial kit and modify it as they wish.

Self-chopper for donkey do it yourself

To assemble the mechanism you will need:

Fishing rod;
Mount that will hold the rod (consists of two parts - the front bracket, and the main part);
Anchoring part (connects the bracket and the main part, is responsible for lifting the fishing rod);
Rear bracket;
Spring of a certain power;
Shock absorbing rubber;
Holes on the main part of the mount;
Shackle axis;
Rubber that attaches to the body of the staple;
Steel trigger (with a bend at the top so that the bracket can slide off when hitting);
Fastening the staple to the main part;
Fishing line;
Coil;
Tackle.

The entire structure is anchored in the ground. Sensitivity will depend on the trigger.

Materials (edit)

List of tools and materials for the manufacture of a self-chock on the bottom:

Aluminum plate;
Wire with a diameter of 2 mm;
Hardened plate;
Wooden plank;
Pliers;
Screwdriver;
Nippers;
Rubber or spring;
Plastic (computer disks are suitable);
Aluminum rod;
Pin;
Bolts and nuts.

Naturally, you need to prepare the rest of the necessary fishing attributes:

Manufacturing

Bend the aluminum plate in the shape of the letter P with sides of 2 cm.
Drill 2 holes up to 2 mm in diameter on each folded side.
Screw about three turns of wire onto the hardened plate. It will act as a spring.
Bend the end of the wire to form a large hook.
Install the wire in the aluminum plate, put on the spring. Put on a cambric on the opposite end. He will be the retainer. Bend the end of the wire.
Now you need to loop the long end of the spring around the wire.
Fix the mechanism at the very end of the board along with the wire ring.
Substitute the folding structure so that it touches the gatehouse.
Using a few self-tapping screws, attach the plate to the wooden board. The construction is ready.

When installing an automatic undercutter, you need to be careful and careful. The force of the undercut, the tension of the rubber or the spring is always high. If the runner bounces off the base, there is a risk of injury.
If the water is calm or the current is minimal, it is recommended to set the trigger force to a minimum. This will increase the sensitivity.
To attract more fish to the bait, you can attach a rubber band with a feeder.

Bottom fishing rod and feeder

Many anglers are fond of several types of fishing. To combine walking fishing with spinning on a predator from the shore and a quiet sit-down hunting for white fish with bottom or float gear, you need to be a rare lucky or professional. When you are on the sidelines, trying to lure out the predatory fish, to keep track of the bite on the triggered bottom tackle, to react in time, then it is practically impossible to reach the place where the fishing rods are exposed. There is still a way out of this situation - this is an automatic hooking when biting without the participation of an angler. You can make and install the undercutter for a bottom fishing rod with your own hands right on the shore of the reservoir.

Types of auto-undercutting devices

The practice of using rod-mounted auto-safety devices has been around for decades. The self-propulsion design is offered:

industrial manufacture. Such options have a complex structure, often large dimensions, high prices;

homemade production. They are represented by a large number of versions, for which inexpensive materials at hand are used. There are freely available drawings and assembly procedures for such devices.

Industrial undershoes replace the stand, are used to install a rod in them. They require personal care, are prone to corrosion, have complex technical solutions for undercutting. The moving parts of the auto-jump mechanism are clogged with dirt, sand, the springs are deformed, which leads to missed bites and idle sweeps.

Self-made self-choppers, unlike purchased ones, have a budgetary cost. Misfires during their use are practically excluded. The simplicity of the design allows the use of such structures in any natural conditions, does not require additional maintenance and care.

Simple and budget-friendly design

A homemade feeder stripper is easy to make with two rubber bands and a paper clip. Such a device, after throwing the donkey, fixes the main line, and during the bite it hooks the fish at the right time.

The procedure for using and making a homemade undercutter for a feeder:
the elastic bands are connected into one by threading into each other and fixed at one end by the leg of the coil;

the paper clip is straightened into a flat wire, with the help of pliers bends are formed in the form of hooks along its edges;

after casting the bait into the water, the modernized wire hook is fixed to the first ring of the rod with one hook;

with the help of the main line, the self-locking device is cocked, the free wire hook of the automatic safety device is fixed.

Float based

People's ingenuity and ingenuity has shown itself in fishing with float gear. It happens when the bite is activated, and it is physically impossible to fish with two or three rods. A bite occurs, but the angler does not have time to hook. For such situations, a float-based self-throttle was invented. The manufacturing principle is simple:

a flat foam rubber cylinder is cut out, the size of which is determined empirically by the diameter of the float;
the selected piece of foam rubber is put on the tip with free movement along it and fixed with a bead with a cambric.

When biting, the modified design goes under the water. In this case, the cylinder creates significant resistance to immersion, and self-chopping occurs.

Industrial analogue

As a rule, commercially available auto-strike holders are expensive and not always made of durable material. Therefore, having the necessary set of tools and a sufficient budgetary amount of funds, you can make such a device yourself.

List of tools required for manufacturing:

pliers;
grinder with cutting wheels;
welding machine, electrodes;
drill;
hammer;
yew;
marker or chalk;
paintbrush.

fittings with a diameter of 8-10 mm for the manufacture of legs;
sheet metal with a thickness of 2 mm and 5 mm;
door spring 50 - 80 cm long.

The procedure for making a self-undercutting device with a rod holder:

according to the drawing, the reinforcement for the manufacture of legs is measured, cut off with a grinder;
prepared rods are formed with a hammer and yews;
staples holding the rod, spring and undercutting mechanism are cut out of sheet metal (thickness 2 mm);

holes are drilled in the spring holding bracket;
the tongue of the undercutter is made of iron 5 mm thick;

cut and prepared parts are welded in the right order;
the structure is painted.

Conclusion

The use of automatic strikers is advisable and confirmed by the amount of fish in the catch. With their help, it is possible to combine fishing and recreation, as well as different types of fishing. The proverb "You will chase two hares, you won't catch a single one" with such assistants is refuted.

Types of auto-undercutting devices

The practice of using rod-mounted auto-safety devices has been around for decades. The self-propulsion design is offered:

industrial manufacture. Such options have a complex structure, often large dimensions, high prices;

When purchasing an industrial self-choker for a donkey, it is necessary to upgrade the rod specifically for this device.

Simple and budget-friendly design

The procedure for using and making a homemade undercutter for a feeder:
the elastic bands are connected into one by threading into each other and fixed at one end by the leg of the coil;

the paper clip is straightened into a flat wire, with the help of pliers bends are formed in the form of hooks along its edges;

Paper clips are of low cost, so there is an opportunity to practice making a quality fixture without worrying about breaking one or two pieces.

after casting the bait into the water, the modernized wire hook is fixed to the first ring of the rod with one hook;

The sensitivity of the auto-choke operation can be adjusted empirically using the fictitious bite method.

with the help of the main line, the self-locking device is cocked, the free wire hook of the automatic safety device is fixed.

After cocking the undercutting mechanism, it is necessary to check its operability once, then put it back into automatic mode.

Float based

a flat foam rubber cylinder is cut out, the size of which is determined empirically by the diameter of the float;
the selected piece of foam rubber is put on the tip with free movement along it and fixed with a bead with a cambric.

When biting, the modified design goes under the water. In this case, the cylinder creates significant resistance to immersion, and self-chopping occurs.

The sensitivity of the hooking is easy to adjust by moving the foam rubber along the antenna of the signaling device.

Attention! When fishing for crucian carp, this modification does not work. The main feature of his bites is the raising of the float, and not a sharp drowning, like in other fish.

Industrial analogue

A simple design is the key to accurate response and minimal maintenance.

List of tools required for manufacturing:

pliers;
grinder with cutting wheels;
welding machine, electrodes;
drill;
hammer;
yew;
marker or chalk;
paintbrush.

Materials used:

fittings with a diameter of 8-10 mm for the manufacture of legs;
sheet metal with a thickness of 2 mm and 5 mm;
door spring 50 - 80 cm long.

The procedure for making a self-prying device with:

The simplicity of the self-locking device allows you to measure and draw up a drawing according to the attached photograph.

according to the drawing, the reinforcement for the manufacture of legs is measured, cut off with a grinder;
prepared rods are formed with a hammer and yews;
staples holding the rod, spring and undercutting mechanism are cut out of sheet metal (thickness 2 mm);

The undercutting process is based on the principle of the trigger supporting the tongue holding the stand.

holes are drilled in the spring holding bracket;
the tongue of the undercutter is made of iron 5 mm thick;

The tongue is pinned or twisted with a bolt, but has free play.

cut and prepared parts are welded in the right order;
the structure is painted.

Conclusion

Rods

Purpose of automatic undercutters

If you fish with several tackles, which is often the case in feeder fishing, you simply may not have enough time to react to the bite, run up to the desired rod and hook.

Types of automatic cutters

Depending on their design and manufacturer, these devices are divided into the following types:

Improved gear. This type includes floats and hooks, which, by making certain changes in their design, allow you to hook the fish without the participation of the fisherman.
Various homemade designs. As a rule, a do-it-yourself automatic fish trimmer and the scheme of its operation are based on the same principle of operation as a conventional mousetrap. The main driving force in them is either dense rubber or a tensioned spring of the required power.
Industrial devices. This type includes technological mechanisms that were originally designed for a particular tackle.

Fishermen often improve industrial designs of self-thrusters to suit their requirements, increasing or, conversely, somewhat weakening their sensitivity and force of action.

Features of different types of undercutters

The weight and length of the spinning rod.
Approximate casting distance of lures. This is important for the approximate calculation of the weight of the rig in the water.
When fishing by trolling - the force of the current and the speed of the boat.
The size of the alleged trophies, their type, as well as how the bite of this type of fish usually occurs (carefully or quickly).

Apart from all the devices for automatic fish hooking, there are floats and hooks.

An example of a self-made self-chopper for a feeder

The numbers in the diagram indicate:

Rod (spinning).
The front bracket of the rocker arm on which the fishing rod is attached.
Rocker body.
Fastening the axis of the rocker arm to the rack around which it rotates.

Rear rocker bracket. The upper part of the spring is attached to it.
Spring.
Main undercutter post. It needs to be made from a stainless steel angle.
Holes on the main post. They are needed to strengthen or weaken the tensile force of the spring.
Shock absorbing rubber. It is necessary to soften the action of the spring.
Fastening the rubber to the bracket body.
Staple axis.
Trigger. It is made of steel and must have a certain bend in the upper part in order to be able to slide off the axis of the shackle during striking (it must be selected empirically).
Fastening the shackle axis to the rocker arm body.
Main line with rig.
Coil.

The mechanism is set up after fixing the main strut in the ground. Trigger sensitivity depends on the upper curvature of the trigger.

Useful video

In the video below, let's see an example of a self-chopper for a feeder in action:

klevyj.com

Currently, there are many designs of self-deflectors, which are designed to catch the biting fish in time. I would like to note the fact that it is advisable to use these mechanisms only with poor bite or when fishing for large fish, when bites do not occur as often as we would like. As a result, we have free time to experiment with other gear and fishing methods. Having considered some designs of such mechanisms, the authors of this article came to the conclusion that many of the proposed solutions are of a narrow nature of their field of application.

In our opinion, some designs of self-thrusters are excessively rigid and can only work when biting large fish, while others, on the contrary, are intended only for hooking a moth of an unworthy size. Some known variants of such devices are excessively cumbersome and difficult to manufacture, while others, even outwardly, do not inspire any confidence and may well work when hitting the water when casting gear. Below there will be a detailed description of a self-undercutting device that successfully works with gear intended for bottom fishing (donka, feeder, picker, etc.). In addition, this mechanism can be used for winter fishing from under the ice, after a little modification. Let us remind home-made craftsmen that all the designs we cite, although they are quite workable by themselves, should not be taken as an unshakable truth.

Remember - there are ALWAYS OPTIONS !!!

In our opinion, the self-chopper described below is very versatile and can be used for fishing a wide range of sizes and "weight categories". Using materials with different parameters of elasticity and rigidity in the manufacture of this mechanism, you can end up with a product that works on a very small fish or make a "monster" that can easily pierce the mouth of a huge catfish with a hook.

The dimensions and design parameters given below work correctly for fish from 100 grams. up to 5 kg. The disadvantage of this design We consider the inconvenience associated with the need to manually remove the line from under the guide bracket after the trigger is triggered. However, the very high sensitivity of this mechanism to fish bites will not allow even the most careful underwater inhabitant to leave with impunity.
At the same time, it is absolutely not necessary to sit next to the tackle, peering intently at the behavior of the nod, and the tackle itself (feeder, picker) may, in this case, be more budgetary. In our opinion, a more successful self-locking device can only be a design that provides for its installation directly on the blank of a rod, if you use one. But more on that later. And now we will consider a detailed description of the manufacture of a stationary self-propulsion system with our own hands from improvised material.

From any suitable material (chipboard, plywood, board, etc.) we cut out the base of the self-securing device 250-100 mm. (photo 1). For the manufacture of a self-locking lever and a stopper-gate, we need a steel bar with a diameter of 3-4 mm. In this case, we use the pull of the door lock from the "Oka", purchased in a car dealership. And for the manufacture of the lever spring, we use steel wire extracted from the cable. This wire has good stiffness and elasticity (see photo 2).

Photo 1 Photo 2

With the effort of the hands, keeping the parts from turning with the pliers, we wrap the spring wire around a 3 mm rod, stepping back from the edge of 5-7 cm. It is necessary to make ten turns, trying to lay the wire tightly, coil to coil. The direction of the curling is of no fundamental importance. If you curl clockwise, you get a lever with a left position relative to the axis of the mechanism, and if counterclockwise, then with the right one (photo 3). Then we fold 3 mm. the rod at an angle of 90 degrees, stepping back 6 centimeters from its edge (photo 4).

Photo 3 Photo 4

After curling the spring, its opposite ends should look in different directions (120-180 degrees). It should be borne in mind that a spring twisted at a large angle, due to the inertia of the lever, is capable of breaking the lip even of a large fish. Before continuing to work with the spring, it is necessary to make a bracket for attaching the lever to the base of the self-propulsion system. In this case, we bent a piece of thin sheet metal 80x40 mm. in half, having received a strip of 80x20 (for rigidity). Then they formed two ears about two centimeters high by bending the ends of the strip at an angle of 90 degrees. In the next step, we drilled two holes with a diameter of 3.2 mm coaxially to each other in the opposite lugs of the bracket, obtaining the axis of rotation of the lever.

For the convenience of further installation, we shifted the holes somewhat forward relative to the axis of the bracket itself. Then two more holes were drilled at its base for attachment to the self-propulsion system, shifting them slightly backward relative to the axis. To avoid injury, round off the sharp edges of the ears with scissors and the bracket is ready (see photo 5). A more successful option for attaching the lever to the base would be a console mount (see photo 6). In this option, it will always be possible to remove the lever from the bracket during fishing and by winding the spring in one direction or the other to achieve the required hook power, based on the size of the intended fish.

Photo 5 Photo 6

Now, at a distance of 7-8 cm from the bend of the lever, we wind its rod with a spring two or three times (see photo 7). At the next stage of working with the lever, we need to form a line catcher at the other end of it, which will not allow it to go to the side during the triggering of the self-seeker and remain uncontrolled. To do this, at a distance of 15-16 cm from the axis of the lever, we make a bend at an angle of 180 degrees. Then we will successively make four two-centimeter bends, forming a kind of slingshot with the groove of the timber receiving center directed downward. Photo 7 and 8 show the final result of these actions from different angles.

Photo 7 Photo 8

Now you can screw the bracket with the lever to the base of the self-securing device in such a way that the groove of the timber receiver is located along the axis of symmetry of the mechanism, and the end of the lever is located two centimeters from its outer edge (see photo 9).

Now let's start making a lock, which will directly react to fish bites and hold the self-locking lever in the cocked position. Photo 10 shows the shape and dimensions that must be adhered to.

Then we need to mark the place of attachment of the guard-lock on the base of the self-securing device. To do this, press the self-locking lever in the working (cocked) position with a latch-lock and mark with a pencil on the base the axis of the gate fastening (see photo 11). The latching guard is a lightly loaded element, therefore, you can not try too much with its fastening. It is enough to fix it at two or three points with staples made of 40 mm galvanized nails with bitten off caps (photo 12).

Photo 11 Photo 12

Next, we cut a regular rubber eraser in half (any other rubber will do), cut grooves in it and install the lock-lock in the fork with an interference fit (see photo 13). Then we will make a longitudinal cut in the rubber (8-10 mm) to clamp the main line of the tackle in it (photo 14).

Photo 13 Photo 14

For a more reliable fixation of the elastic in the fork of the gatehouse, you can wrap it with several layers of electrical tape. Now we will mark the location of the guide bracket, which should be on the same axis with the groove of the arm's receiver (see photo 15). The remaining half of the rubber band can be used as a shock-absorbing buffer by screwing it under the self-locking lever with a self-tapping screw (see photo 16).

Photo 15 Photo 16

Photo 17 shows how to fill the fishing line with the tackle in the working position. Now it remains for us to drill one or two holes in the base of the self-propeller so that we can fix the self-propeller on the shore of the reservoir. Through the holes, you can drive pegs into the shore, which will reliably lock our product and prevent it from "running away" into the water when a large fish jerks. In addition, you can tie it to any stationary object on the shore through these holes (for example, to a bracket on the slabs, if you are fishing on a dam). That's it - the self-locking device is ready to go (photo 18).

Photo 17 Photo 18

Now a few practical tips for using this self-propulsion design. This self-safety device is recommended for use in conjunction with bottom rigs equipped with a sliding weight of 40 grams or more. The weight of the used sinker depends on the size of the intended production and, accordingly, on the angle of twisting of the lever spring. The weight of the load should be such that the fish cannot pull it from its place when pulling the bait. The paternoster with an asymmetric loop has proven itself very well when working with this device (see homemade products, asymmetric loop). In the case of using such a tandem, the fish will be hooked, regardless of the further direction of movement of the fish, after it has taken the bait. Moreover, the fish practically does not feel any resistance from the tackle and the self-propeller itself. It is enough for the fish to apply an effort of a few grams on the latch-lock, and a lightning-fast sharp hooking will take place.

Figure 1 shows a diagram of the self-propulsion system.

First, we cast our tackle in the usual way and take out the slack in the line. We put the rod on the stands intended for this, located at some distance from the water's edge. Remember - the drag of the reel must be set up as in normal fishing. Then we cocked the self-locking lever to the working position and fix it with a stopper-gate.

Holding the stopper-gate with one hand to prevent spontaneous operation, with the free hand we put the line under the guide bracket, and then into the slot of the elastic band of the stopper-gate. Then we pull the line in the area between the guide bracket and the rod tulip towards the rod until the line stretches in the area between the weight and the lock-gate. After that, grasping the gum of the gate with one hand (keeping it from moving forward), with the other hand, by the fishing line, pull 2-10 centimeters towards the bait, loosening the tension of the rig. It should be borne in mind that this is the distance that the fish will travel after taking the bait and that this is the distance that the hook will travel during the hook in the direction opposite to the movement of the fish. If we do not weaken the line, then when biting, our prey will immediately feel the weight of the load and throw the bait.

And even if the self-locking device works, it will “fight” with the weight of the load, and not with the thickness of the fish's lip. Thus, in order for the self-propeller to work correctly for medium-sized fish, we weaken the tackle by 2-5 cm when catching medium-sized fish and by 5-10 cm when catching trophy specimens.

And at the end of all the manipulations, we move the lock-gate to the very edge of the self-locking lever so that it barely keeps the lever from dumping, and we wind the excess fishing line onto the rod reel, leaving a little slack, which is necessary for the free movement of the lock-gate (3- 5 mm.). We tried to describe in detail all these manipulations, and this description took quite a few lines. However, if you understood everything correctly, you can competently "charge" the self-throttle while fishing in 20-30 seconds.

This device can also be used for winter fishing from under the ice. If you install a wire coil directly on the base of the self-securing device, we have a fully equipped tackle with a self-securing device. To catch fish from the hole, you need to bend the stopper a little forward (see Fig. 2), while you do not need to "overdo it" with the bending angle, because the self-securing device can start to work even from the weight of the eraser, fixed in the stopper-gate.

When fishing in the summer with the help of a feeder or picker, at a certain moment of self-chopping, part of the energy is absorbed by the tip of the rod, cushioning the shock load. Thanks to this, the probability of the tackle breaking due to the forces that arise during the operation of the self-propeller disappears. With the winter version of using this device and incorrect adjustment of the angle of twisting of the spring, there is a high probability of line breakage, in addition, the undercut is excessively sweeping.

Therefore, it is recommended to equip a self-locking device for winter fishing with a simple lever travel stop. If someone is interested in this device, he can contact the Site Administrator, and we will be happy to tell you: "How it works!" For the convenience of working with this self-securing device, you can attach another elastic band to the lever of the device, as shown in photo 19. In this version of the self-securing device, the guide bracket will no longer be needed, and after the device is triggered, the fishing line will easily be released from both rubber bands (on the stopper-gate and on the lever). As a last resort, it will be easy to release the line by pulling the rod in hand, away from the self-locking device. In most cases, the line will free itself when you jerk the fish caught on the tackle.

http://all-fishing.pp.ua/

fishbook.com.ua

Option 1

The self-choker is designed for use with a fishing rod or spinning rod and the spring properties of the rod. During the bite, the bent rod is released by the undercutting mechanism, as a result, the fish is automatically caught without any action by the fisherman.

In the image, we can consider a general diagram of the principle of operation of such a system.

To connect the structural parts of the self-prying device, wire bushings are used, which are soldered, or bolts - you can choose one of these solutions.

Different options are suitable as a material - steel with or without galvanizing, preferably brass. In general, what will be at hand.

All homemade elements must be connected and at the same time monitored - moving parts must move easily, not get stuck anywhere. You can drop on them to a minimum of machine oil.

We now have one piece of homemade autoswitching. A holder for installing a fishing rod or spinning rod can be made by hand or you can buy a ready-made glass. Or take some other object of a suitable shape to attach the rod to. For example, you can use the diagram below.

The auto-deflector is ready. You can put the homemade hooking mechanism in the working position and wait for the fish to be on the hook.

Option 2

Somehow I met an American-made self-propeller for fishing. It is made in a fairly simple design, as with other options, so there will be no difficulties in its manufacture.

The principle of operation of such a device and how to use it - you can find out from the above images.

Don't be afraid to experiment. Fishing is a creative hobby.

Option 3

The original float - and auto-choke

Depending on what kind of fish you are going to catch, you should choose one or another tackle for your fishing rod - fishing line, hooks, float. Some fish species are very voracious. The peculiarity of catching such fish is that you can not even blink an eye - and the fish has already fallen on the hook, deeply swallowing it with bait. In this case, the hook is not easy to pull out. To remove it and free the fish, you will have to take tweezers or some other object.

To avoid such inconvenient situations, you can make a kind of self-chopping in the form of an improved conventional float.

To do this, you need to take an ordinary store float, it should have a thin and long upper rod, at the end of which there is a thickening in the form of a head. To perfect this float, you need to take a small piece of Styrofoam or a crust plug.

First, we take a cork (or foam) and cut off a fragment in the form of a circle, its thickness should be 5–10 mm. After that, you need to take a drill and make a hole in the center of the circle. Its diameter should be such that the circle put on this rod moves freely up and down, while the head of the rod will serve as a limiter of its movement. When the hole is ready, you need to take a razor blade or sharp knife and cut a slot from the hole to the edge of the circle.

This is necessary so that the circle is aimed at the float, or remove it, if necessary. It is better not to cover the circle with paint, since due to foreign odors the fish in the water can simply bypass the bait.

The work of such an improvement is based on the following principle. Some fish - for example, perch or rotan - have such a feature - they seize the bait very sharply. In the event of a sharp bite, the float goes under the water, and the circle is locked on the water by the float head - and thus hooks the fish. In such a simple way, with a modified float, the catch increases significantly. As practice shows, such a self-prying device works with your own hands, even if you are not near the fishing rod.

www.umeltsi.ru

Automatic catching is often used when fishing - it increases the catch, allows you to fish with a large number of tackle, allows you to do something else in parallel with fishing, and also realizes the opportunity to catch fish without being present at the time of the bite. Of course, you will not achieve 100% catch when taking a bite using auto-hooking, but even without it, the bite does not always end with fish in the cage. But with a good bite, the chances of catching the fish when using the automatic hook are often more than when manually hooking, when you can simply miss the optimal hooking time. That's what fishing is for, anything can happen. There are various auto-jumper schemes, they are all easy to make, so it's not difficult to make them yourself, but you can also look in stores for the lazy. Further material for those who want make an auto-hooking for a fishing rod or spinning rod yourself.

Option 1

Auto hook that can be used with any rod or spinning rod using the spring properties of the rod itself. The undercutter, or rather a mechanism that, when biting, releases the bent rod, and thereby allows you to auto-fish the fish without your intervention.
The general scheme of the principle of operation of this option is shown in the figure.

Auto-jogging construction parts are connected with wire bushings and soldered or bolted - whichever you prefer

Any material can be used - steel, galvanized steel, or better brass. In general, that there is.

Connect all the parts of the homemade auto jogging, pay attention to the fact that the moving parts move easily, they do not get stuck anywhere, you can lubricate with machine oil (just a little).

Actually one part of the auto-cut is ready. The glass where the fishing rod or spinning rod is installed can also be made by yourself or you can buy a ready-made holder. Perhaps you already have something like this for securing the rod - any option will do. For example, you can do it according to the scheme below.

Everything is ready. Bring the do-it-yourself hooking mechanism to the "firing position" and wait for the fish on the hook.

Option 2

I caught the eye of an American-made autoswitch. The design, like the others, is quite simple, so you can also make it yourself.

The principle of operation and method of application for fishing is clear from the above pictures.

Don't be afraid to experiment - fishing is not only a hobby, but also creativity.

Option 3

The original float with auto-choke

Depending on what kind of fish you catch, the tackle for the fishing rod is selected accordingly - fishing line, hooks, float. Sometimes the fish is quite voracious, greedy. Its peculiarity is that you might not even notice that the fish is already on the hook: it pulls once, and the float stands rooted to the spot. You start to choose the line from the water, and the fish has been sitting on the hook for a long time, so it deeply swallowed the bait along with the hook. It is already difficult to get the hook. You have to use tweezers, or something else, to get it and free the fish.

In order not to experience such inconvenience, and to make a kind of auto-choke, it is proposed to improve the usual float.
We take a regular store float. Required with a thin and long top shaft that ends with a thickened head. To upgrade it, you need a piece of Styrofoam or a cork stopper.

First, a circle with a thickness of five to ten millimeters is cut from the cork (or a piece of foam). Then in the center we make a hole with a drill. The hole should be of such a diameter that if you put this circle on the float rod, then it should move up and down freely, and the head on the rod should restrict its movement. After the hole is made, you need to make a slot from the hole to the edge of the circle with a blade or sharp knife. This is done so that the circle can be put on the float if necessary or removed as unnecessary. It is not advisable to paint the circle, as foreign odors in the water can scare off fish.

This improvement works as follows. Some fish, such as perch or rotan, have a tendency to grab the bait very sharply. With a sharp bite, the float goes under the water, and the circle is locked on the surface of the water by the head of the float, thereby making the fish hook. Such a simple modification of the float significantly increases the catch. Quite often, the hook is triggered when you are not near the rod at all - checked. It is often useful for inexperienced, novice fishermen, as it hooks without you, especially with sharp, fast and strong bites, which are easy to miss, and then “excruciatingly sorry”. Good luck.

bazila.net

Purpose and execution

Often, when bottom fishing, you have to place the rods at a decent distance from each other due to the certain terrain.

In such a situation, an automatic undercutter will do a good job. You will be able to do something in parallel with fishing. For example, if you need to readjust one of the gear in the event of a break.

The autoswitching scheme is pretty simple. A typical drawing can be found on the Internet. If you nevertheless decide to make an automatic undercutter, pay attention to its design.

Auto-deflectors can be roughly divided into two classes:

The first ones are installed directly on the rod or next to it. Their essence lies in the tension of the main line with a rubber cord. In its absence, you can use several bank (stationery) rubber bands. A small lever is made of steel wire (an ordinary paper clip is suitable). A fishing line is attached to one side of the lever, and an elastic band under tension on the other. The lever is located in the first ring of the rod. When you pull the line horizontally, the lever pops out of the ring. Further, the elastic begins to contract, dragging the fishing line along.
In the second method, the undercutting mechanism is placed on a leash. The auto-landing takes place directly in the water. The essence of the method is again reduced to a spring mechanism. When biting, the fish releases one end of the lever, which is under tension. Straightening, the lever makes a sharp jerk of the main line, thereby hooking the fish.

An auto-deflector will help increase your catch. It will fire faster than you get near the rod.

Unusual options

We should also mention the interesting species invented by the people.

For example, the float's auto-choke:

in this case, the upper antenna is removed from the float;
a homemade foam rubber ring with a diameter slightly larger than the thickness of the antenna is put on it;
then the antenna is glued into place. The ring should move freely along the antenna;
a bead is attached on top;
when biting, the ring prevents the float from submerging into the water, hooking the fish.

If the fish is lifting, this method will be useless.

Required tools.

1. Vise.
2. Hammer.
3. Pliers.
4. Screwdriver.
5. Hacksaw for metal.
6. Hacksaw for wood (if necessary).
7. Drill and drills (optional).
8. Roulette.

Materials needed.

1. Board.
2. Steel spring wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm.
3. Bicycle spoke.
4. Galvanized metal with a thickness of 0.7 mm.
5. Nail.
6. Eraser.
7. Self-tapping screws.

We take a 40 x 12 cm board as a basis for the undercutter. 1 cm thick. I will make a reservation right away, all sizes are very arbitrary and can vary.

The most time consuming part of the job is to bend the spring wire line catcher. We mark from the edge of the wire 5 cm.

We clamp it in a vice and bend it under 90 degrees.

We trim the resulting bend with a hammer. The main thing is to do everything slowly so that the wire does not burst at the bend.

Now we mark 8 cm from the bend, we also clamp it in a vice and bend it in the opposite direction.

The most important part of the job is to bend the wire 180 degrees. Mark 5 cm. Clamp it in a vice and, for a start, bend it under 90 degrees.

Now, using a screwdriver and a hammer, carefully bend the wire 180 degrees.

If everything works out, mark the center of the line catcher and bend it a little.

We apply the resulting blank to the base and mark the beginning of the spring bend.

We clamp with a vice and bend under 90 degrees. in the direction of the line catcher.

We mark the size approximately equal to half the width of the board and bend it under 45 degrees. to the plane of the undercut arm.

Mark 5 cm and cut off the excess with a hacksaw.

The lever with the spring is ready, now we will make a gate from a bicycle spoke.

We mark from the edge of the knitting needle 5 times, 2 cm.

We bend with pliers, forming a part, as shown in the photo.

On the other edge of the knitting needle, bend the hook for attaching the eraser.

Now you need to fix the resulting parts to the base. To do this, we will make four clamps from galvanized metal with a thickness of 0.7 mm.

We mark four segments of about 4 x 1.5 cm and cut off with a hacksaw.

Bend the lines in the center using the remaining piece of wire as a template. Also, if you have something, you can round off the edges.

Of course, it is better to drill holes in the clamps for self-tapping screws, but if there is nothing, then you can pierce it with a nail or a dowel.

We fasten all the parts to the base with self-tapping screws. It is better to put one clamp all the same on the screws and make it removable, although this is not necessary.

We bend the lever of the undercutter, mark the location of the gatehouse and screw it on.

To prevent the edge of the spring from pushing through the board, we install another metal plate. On the top of the gatehouse, we install an eraser with a slot to fix the fishing line or cord.

The self-propeller is almost ready, it remains to install one more detail, without which it will not work. Here's a hook.

It can be bent from a nail and hammered into the base. We found the finished one and will screw it into the base in the center of the line catcher.

Our undercutter is ready to go.
A little advice. To avoid accidental triggering of the undercutter when alerted, it can be fixed, for example, with a nail.

This design of the undercutter is designed for bottom tackle such as a zakidushka or an elastic band.

The principle of operation is as follows. We throw the tackle into the water, alert and fix the undercutter, thread the line into the hook.

We fix it in the slot of the eraser.

We remove the retainer and wait for a bite.

With what pleasure anglers hook the fish when, having settled down on the shore in good and not so good weather, they realize their hobby with a sporting passion. Emotions, adrenaline, rich catch! These are all components of a successful fishing trip. But what if you need to move away from the tackle for a while, have a quiet lunch and relax? For such a case, this tackle is provided. An automatic fish deflector is very necessary when there is no time to constantly monitor the fishing rod and watch the bite.

Homemade at work

Self-landing gear with aircraft rubber

In one of the simple and at the same time effective self-prying devices presented below, the basis of the mechanism is aviation rubber, a plastic profile, a piece of plastic from a DVD or CD-disk, an aluminum rod, an M6 bolt, two nuts (you can also use a wing, it is more convenient), pin. As you can see, scarce materials are not needed to make a do-it-yourself undercutter, you can assemble it from the parts at hand.

When catching fish with the help of a self-tapping device, you can use the donk without a rod and with it, attaching a device under it. After casting the fishing rod, you need to release the line a little and bring it into the slot of the gatehouse.

Now even simpler in design and operation of the autoshock and that, how the undercutter works... Such a device works great on a current, it is easy to use and can be used at any time of the year.

Unusual options

Self-chopper for a feeder, its use in fishing

Purpose of automatic undercutters

Features of different types of undercutters

An example of a self-made self-chopper for a feeder

Useful video

Simple undercutter for bottom tackle

Self-chopper for donkey

What is an automatic fishing striker for?

Types of automatic cutters

Self-chopper for donkey do it yourself

Materials (edit)

Manufacturing

Other solutions to the problem

Bottom fishing rod and feeder

Types of auto-undercutting devices

Simple and budget-friendly design

Float based

Industrial analogue

Conclusion

Types of auto-undercutting devices

Simple and budget-friendly design

Float based

Industrial analogue

Conclusion

Purpose of automatic undercutters

Types of automatic cutters

Features of different types of undercutters

An example of a self-made self-chopper for a feeder

Useful video

Option 1

Option 2

Option 3

The original float with auto-choke

Purpose and execution

Unusual options

Homemade at work

New on the site

Most popular

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