Or felting) allows you to create fancy figures, jewelry, interior items, toys and accessories. For beginners, this topic is completely incomprehensible, but those who have already tried to create their first craft or even several in practice do not see anything complicated.
Principle of wool felting technique
The dry felting technique arose due to the special structure of wool. Hair (both human and animal, that is, wool) is covered with small scales that can protrude, interlocking with each other. Sheep wool (like the wool of a camel, llama, angora, mohair) in normal condition looks about the same as heavily split human hair, it forms tangles and becomes matted. It is this structure that allows you to use the dry felting technique.
Selection of materials for felting
The quality of any handmade item depends not only on the accuracy of execution and skills of the needlewoman, but also on the correct choice of materials. You need to be careful when purchasing materials and tools, especially since dry felting toys doesn’t require much.
You will need a backing to protect your fingers and the surface of the desktop from possible punctures during work, natural wool of different colors, and special needles. You can purchase a plastic backing, a thick felt backing, or use a regular foam sponge.
The whole secret of dry felting from wool lies in special faceted needles, with the help of which a shapeless skein of wool is transformed into a dense figure. To decorate the finished figurine you will need sheet felt, beads, ribbons, buttons, and various accessories. Don’t forget about ready-made plastic eyes for toys. All decorative elements can be sewn, felted or glued to the finished product.
You can purchase a ready-made kit for dry felting toys or all the materials separately.
Special faceted needles
In general, a small toy can be felted with almost any needle. The only question is ease of use, quality of the finished product and speed of the process. But still, for needlework it is better to purchase several special needles that differ in cross-sectional shape and thickness.
Felting needles can be thin or thick (coarse), this determines the needle number. The coarsest is marked “19”, and the thinnest is number 42. You can also find ultra-thin needles with number 43 on sale. Thick tools do most of the work, and thin ones are needed to level the surface of the finished product and work out details.
In terms of cross-section, the most convenient are star-shaped and triangular needles. In addition, these types of options are easier to find on sale. The tool can have cuts in the forward or reverse direction. Using needles with straight notches, the upper villi are tangled inward. A tool with reverse notches will allow you to create the effect of fur or felt wool in hard-to-reach places. The reverse needle is also convenient for working out details.
To work, you will need at least three or four needles: thick (No. 36) with a triangular cross-section for initial felting of wool, medium (No. 38) for intermediate stages, star-shaped (No. 40) for final finishing of the product.
You can simply hold the tool in your hand, but it is much more convenient to use a special handle. This will speed up the process of dry felting toys and make the work convenient. Some needles are sold with a holder and an ergonomic handle.
Wool, decor and accessories
To make crafts, accessories and interior items, you will need raw wool (usually sheep's wool) of different colors. Handicraft stores have a large selection, so it’s easy to get lost in this variety. The main types of wool that are suitable for felting toys are:
- Sliver- coarse, undyed and unbleached wool. Suitable for creating blanks for toys, the inner layer of slippers or bags, and stuffing rag dolls instead of padding polyester.
- Carded wool- very soft wool with randomly mixed fibers, similar to cotton wool. Suitable for all felting methods.
- Rowing tape - wool with fibers aligned in one direction. Suitable for felting toys, but less convenient than carding.
- Fine and semi-fine wool- used to create decorative elements and finish finished products.
- Coarse wool- an analogue of sliver, coarse fluff can only be used for felting the base of a future toy.
In handicraft stores you can find Russian “Troitskaya” and “Semyonovskaya”, Italian wool from the “Yarna” company (inconvenient for dry felting), and New Zealand “Merino”.
Accessories and decorative elements give the finished look to the work. You can use beads, buttons and various accessories. To dry felt toys, you will need colored felt in sheets and ready-made plastic or glass eyes.
Cost of materials and tools
A set of needles for felting of three pieces (initial, main and finishing) costs about 100 rubles, and of five (in addition to the initial, main and finishing, there is also a crown needle, used for felting very small elements, and an intermediate one, which levels the surface before the next stages work) - 150 rubles. A set of three reverse needles costs a little more than 150 rubles.
One hundred grams of “Semyonovskaya” wool will cost approximately 120-220 rubles, depending on the color. To create products in the same range, sets of five different colors are sold (from 130 rubles per 10 grams). Sliver costs about 100 rubles per 50 grams.
Basics of dry felting techniques
Having mastered this simple technique, you can create real masterpieces using an ordinary needle. First, you need to draw the future product on paper and “break it down” into smaller parts. If the craft is more than fifteen centimeters in length, it makes sense to make blanks from sliver or coarse wool.
Secondly, the wool needs to be prepared for felting. Afterwards you can start working. The dry felting master class for beginners is simple - you just need to frequently stick a needle into a ball of wool, using your hands to give it the required shape.
The finished parts need to be connected, the product must be polished, and given expressiveness and volume using tinting. The process is long and painstaking, but very exciting and creative.
Preparing material for felting
Dry felting of toys requires mandatory preparation of wool for further work. From the general skein you need to separate the fibers for the future part with a good margin. During the needlework process, the initial volume of wool will decrease by three to four times.
The strands need to be disassembled, separated in different directions until they are mixed again into a homogeneous mass. Long fibers will create unsightly furrows in the future, so you need to separate the material into small ones from the very beginning and mix them well together.
If you need to make two identical parts (for example, paws), you must initially take equal balls of wool for each. If you start felting the second part only after the first is completed, there will be very little chance of making the same ones.
Rules
The technique of dry felting toys is quite simple, but you still need to take into account certain rules. You should always felt only on a substrate. This is a safety requirement. Otherwise, you can prick your fingers (and barbed needles seriously damage the skin) or damage the surface of the table.
Work should always start with a thicker needle, gradually moving to thinner ones. The tool must be stuck into the material at a right angle, movements must be frequent and quite fast. The part must be constantly turned over, simultaneously processing the entire surface of the product.
At the initial stages of work, you need to stick the needle quite deeply in order to properly felt the core of the toy. As long as six is soft enough, the material can be shaped into the desired shape with your fingers. The part is considered ready when it acquires noticeable density. There should be no voids inside, and the toy should not be deformed when pressed.
Connecting parts together
The head and body or other large parts are usually thrown together, but small elements (nose, paws, tail, ears) need to be made separately. If you plan to join parts in the future, you should leave loose wool fibers at the joints. To reliably connect the parts of the toy, the free ends must be well rolled to the base.
Sanding the finished product
Any dry felting master class for beginners ends with sanding and tinting the finished product. Sanding will make the surface of the toy uniform, dense and lint-free. You need to separate several fibers from the main skein of wool, separate them (fluff them) and roll the resulting “cloud” onto the main part with the thinnest needle. So you should work the entire surface of the toy until it becomes smooth. This is very labor-intensive and painstaking work, but the result is worth it.
Tinting with pastel crayons
To give the toy more expressiveness and emphasize volume, it is better to use the tinting technique. You can use both acrylic paints diluted with water and crushed pastel crayons. Pastel is simpler and suitable for beginners. You need to apply colored crumbs to the surface of the toy with a dry brush; for smooth transitions, you can shade the color with your fingers.
Master class for beginners
How to learn to dry felt toys? Of course, you need to try it in practice. Schemes of toys (dry felting) are given above. It’s enough to just make, for example, a small penguin. You will need white or gray wool, a sliver for the body of the bird, some black wool for the back, felt for the wings, small black eyes and a piece of yellow wool for the beak.
You need to start making a do-it-yourself toy (dry volumetric felting) with a base of white or gray wool. First you need to form the body and head of the penguin. The back and head can be covered with black wool at the sanding stage. It is recommended to roll felt wings onto the main figure (they can also be made from wool), glue the eyes, and attach the beak in any convenient way.
Wet felting from wool is used to create flat fabrics, which is why it is sometimes also called flat felting. Flat felting with wool for beginners may seem narrow-minded, but it's not!
Using this technology, you can make not only plain canvases and colored panels, but also handbags, covers for homemade notebooks, scarves, mittens and even flowers! Interesting? Then let's try it.
What do you need for wet felting?
Unlike dry felting, wet felting requires quite a lot of materials. But you can probably find them all at home. So, you will need:
- bedding made of waterproof material (usually bubble wrap is used);
- soap;
- warm water;
- net (for example, mosquito net);
- towel;
- spray bottle or sponge;
- bamboo napkin or washboard;
- decorations for your future masterpiece (optional).
Where to begin?
Wet felting lessons from wool for beginners usually involve creating simple things. For example, you can make a small panel - see the instructions for creating it below.
Lay out the bubble wrap with the bubbles facing up. Now take the wool for felting. Holding it with one hand, pull out small bunches from the tape. How small? Imagine that you are pulling out a fluffy bunch from a faded thistle flower - this is approximately the volume the bunches should be.
Lay the bundles parallel to each other, overlapping the thin edges. When you have covered the intended area of your workpiece, begin the second layer. Lay the second layer perpendicular to the first. Then repeat again, and again. The result should be 4 layers, and each subsequent one is perpendicular to the previous one.
Now it's time to check the quality. Gently pressing the wool, look for any gaps. Clearances are “blanks” for future holes in the canvas. If there are gaps, they need to be covered with tufts of wool.
How to wet felt wool?
Wet felting involves moisture. For this you need a soap solution. The technique of wet felting wool for beginners allows preparing a soap solution from ordinary soap, although professionals often use expensive ready-made felting solutions. So, take two glasses of warm water and dissolve two tablespoons of grated baby soap or three tablespoons of liquid soap in the water. Pour the solution into a spray bottle, but if you don’t have it, it doesn’t matter. A sponge will also work for moisturizing.
Cover the workpiece with a net. It should cover it entirely and be even larger than it. Starting from the middle, moisten the surface with soapy water. To ensure that the solution penetrates deeply, press the product with your hands. How to understand that the workpiece is moistened enough? It is quite wet, but when pressed, no water comes through under your fingers. If water appears, blot the surface of the future panel with a towel. Balance is very important here: wool that is too dry will not mat, but wool that is too wet will unravel.
Happened? Now let's finish the product. Remove the mesh. Decorate the surface of the panel with beautiful woolen threads (if so intended), and trim the fluffy edges, tucking them into the total mass of the canvas.
Now let's start felting.
Wet felting with wool may seem uncomfortable for beginners. To prevent your first time from turning into a tragedy, use gloves. Cover your future masterpiece with the mesh and smooth it with light circular movements. You don't need to press too hard. After some time, check whether the workpiece is falling against the mesh. In this case, the pressure must be reduced. When the top layer falls off, the mesh can be removed.
When will it be ready? Easy to check. Pinch the surface of the workpiece. If hairs of fur come off, it's not done yet. When is it ready? When the entire canvas follows your fingers.
When the front part is felted, start working on the back side. Turn the workpiece over and continue felting on the other side.
When the other side is ready, take the workpiece in your hands and rub it with your hands. The first stage of felting is completed.
Now take a bamboo napkin. Place it so that it is convenient to roll it up. Place the canvas on a napkin and roll it into a roll. Place a towel on the table so that the napkin does not slip, and roll the roll over the towel. Then unroll the roll, flip the piece over at a 90-degree angle, and repeat.
If you don't have a bamboo napkin, you can roll the fabric on a washboard. To do this, spread the product on a board and rub it as if washing. When it wrinkles, smooth it out, turn it at a right angle and rub again.
And now that the panel has fallen off, it needs to be rinsed. Place it in the sink or bathtub and run hot water over it. Rinse until the water runs clear. Then rinse with cold water and dry by rolling it in a towel. Then lay it out on a horizontal surface to dry completely.
Tatiana Labazova
Dry felting of wool, felting, felting is a technique for creating toys, shoes, clothes and various decorative items from unspun wool. This art allows you to display all the fantasies of needlewomen.
For beginners, it is important to know exactly what tools are needed, what types of wool to use in the technique of felting toys, what varieties of angora and merino are used for felting a picture.
Types of wool
For felting, only natural fleece is used, without synthetics.
Cardboard, or wool wool, falls very quickly and does not require additional chopping, because the fibers are short and mixed together. Combed tape, or tops, is combed with high quality, so the long fibers lie in one direction, without impurities.
Sliver is an unprocessed wool fiber used for the base of the product. Angora or merino is used for decoration and small details in the product.
Felting needles
There are 4 types of needles used in felting. Each has nicks, thanks to the nicks the wool becomes felted.
Needles are sold as a set, under a specific marking:
- No. 36 triangular (main), dumps the drainer;
- No. 38 has a star shape, creating a relief on the product;
- No. 40 triangular, for working with thin and small parts;
- No. 38 crown (has 4 sides), for decorating the product.
When working with needles, follow safety rules and do not work with weights. Use a support (foam sponge, hard bristle brush). The brush (sponge) will protect your fingers and work surface from punctures.
Try the dry felting technique for beginners
To start using multi-colored unspun fleece, remember 11 dry felting lessons for beginners:
- the idea that has arisen must be sketched, the drawing will be your guide;
- work only on the substrate;
- take 3 times more wool; when felting, the volume will decrease;
- divide the material into small fibers and mix together;
- threading begins with the thickest needle, gradually changing it to a smaller diameter;
- punctures in the part must be made from all sides, only vertically, deeply and quickly;
- the finished parts look smooth in appearance, without protruding fibers, and do not deform when pressed;
- While the surface of the elements is still loose, you can change the shape and dimensions of the product;
- to join the finished craft, you should leave strands of unfelted wool in small parts, thanks to them the connection occurs;
- when sanding crafts, the sharpest needle is used;
- It is advisable to do paired parts (wings, legs) at the same time.
For training, you can take a padding polyester, tear it with your hands and a 38-gauge needle, and, for example, make a ball on a backing. Perpendicular to the working surface, pierce the padding pad as deeply as possible.
Slowly but surely the padding polyester will turn into a tight ball. When it is no longer possible to puncture, the product is ready. You can also check by sound whether the ball has fallen off or not. There should be a dull sound, like hitting wood.
Based on the felting technique, anyone can learn how to felt small and large items.
This is painstaking, but very exciting creativity!
All products created by you will be unique and will surely delight your family and friends!
Dry felting a small wool toy for beginners
Chick
You will need a universal needle number 38, which does not require replacement. Angora red and yellow, felt, transparent glue, black beads or large beads and all the tools necessary for felting. This craft is done within 4 hours.
Distribute the material into small fibers, the smaller the better. Having formed an oval, felt the body with vertical punctures. Make the head and wings in the same way. Attach the head and wings to the body using small pieces of wool. Make indentations for the eyes on the head and glue beads.
Felt the red beak and roll it to the head. Make chicken legs from wire. Cover the frames of the legs with red angora and stick them into the body. Use red felt for the chicken's scallop, glue it or attach it with a needle. Sand the finished craft with a fine needle. The craft is ready!
If you involve your child in the activity, felting toys will become your common favorite pastime!
Felting lessons
Drawing or layering of wool is done with minimal use of needles, merino or angora is placed on top of each other and joined together with light pressure from the palms.
Be sure to apply glass to the picture, all the nuances will be visible under it. Also, through the glass the entire color scheme of the design will be visible more clearly. It is most convenient to work with thin and superfine wool.
The richer the palette, the more picturesque the picture. If there is a shortage of shades, you can mix different coat colors to achieve the desired result.
If viscose is used in the painting, it is better to mix it with wool 1:2 to avoid excess shine.
During the work process, it is best to iron the painting to fix the wool and align the details. If you want to cut wool fibers into large and dense pieces, keep the scissors close to the picture, and if it is crumbly, then vice versa.
To make it easier to pinch angora or merino with small transparent “webs”, the combed tape needs to be felted a little.
Use only the sharpest scissors with sharp ends. The best ones are hairdressers. In addition to scissors, you will need tweezers. It is needed for decorating paintings (remove lint, crumbs or for laying out small details).
Handicraft is a world of wonders and flights of fancy. There are many techniques and ways to create a masterpiece. Each master has his own favorite type of activity in this area, but there are hardly those who are indifferent to wool felting. Cute little animals, felted from soft material, instantly captivate hearts. They also inspire you to try your hand at working with wool and beyond.
For dry felting, natural unspun alpaca, camel or llama wool is used. Due to the special structure of the animal's hair, it becomes tangled, forming so-called tangles. It is this property that allows the scraps to be given a certain shape.
Felting, as felting is often called, is an interweaving of wool fibers to create a dense fabric structure. There are several felting techniques: dry felting, wet felting, nun-felt method and felting of knitted fabrics.
The most popular today is the dry method. It is quite simple and allows even novice hand makers to create real masterpieces. You don't need complicated tools for the job. The master's arsenal is simple and laconic.
Equipment for work
To dry felt wool, a beginner will only need a few tools. It is important to take into account that the work tool is very sharp, so it is better for children under 12 years of age to do needlework under adult supervision.
What you will need:
Scissors and other cutting objects are not needed for work. The wool is pliable, so it can be torn off by hand. In addition, a cut tuft loses its structure, while a torn tuft keeps the hairs intact.
Since the felting needle is quite dangerous, it is better to choose a radio as background noise when working. Being distracted by TV can cause you to cut your hands. Wounds caused by metal barbs take a very long time to heal.
Master class for beginners
The wool felting technique allows you to create real masterpieces. These are toys, brooches, and even appliqués on clothes. But in order to learn how to create beautiful things, you need to learn the basic points of working with a needle.
Before starting work, you should find a comfortable place with a flat surface. A desk or kitchen table is ideal.
It is recommended to learn how to felt wool by starting with simple shapes. For example, from a ball:
To get ahead of the readiness of the figure, press on it with your fingers. If the lump does not change its shape due to this, then it is felted enough.
To felt a flat part, a ball of wool is flattened on foam rubber and rolled onto a sponge, periodically turning it over to the other side. Felting flat elements can be compared to drawing on a sheet of paper: you can apply a design only on the front and back of it.
To give a flat element a certain shape, you can use paper patterns, to which the workpiece is periodically tried on during work.
Woolly good monster
Having become familiar with the dry felting technique, hand makers will definitely try to make felt toys with their own hands. For beginners, step-by-step master classes may seem simple, but working with a needle requires experience and dexterity, so you should understand that the first creations of a newly minted master will be far from masterpieces, but you should not give up. It’s better to try to dump a hero who will only benefit from absurdity. For example, a cute monster.
Any creative task begins with creating a sketch. The future hero is drawn on a sheet of paper, observing approximate proportions, but without going into small details.
When the sketch is ready, it is divided into main parts. In the case of a monster, the process is divided into creating the torso, limbs and decoration.
In the proposed example, the head and body of the monster smoothly flow into each other, so there is no point in laying them separately. If the sketch requires a clear and graceful neck, you can break up the diagram differently.
Torso and head
Work on the monster begins with the largest detail. To do this, pinch off a large ball of wool and roll it into a ball. You shouldn't make your debut work too miniature. Small parts are difficult to work with.
So, the body is rolled up. Now its outlines are beginning to form. Sticking a needle in, they make a small pear. To do this, as the ball narrows, more and more injections are made.
At the stage of forming the body, a flat surface is not as important as the density of the element. It is important to knock down the tight pear-shaped lump, in which there will be no cavities.
To form a small belly for the monster, a ball with fluffy edges is made from a small tuft of wool of the same color. Using a needle, roll it onto the pear, paying attention to the edges. The contour of the belly should not stand out.
To level the surface of the future body, the thinnest needles are used.
Preparation of symmetrical limbs
The limbs of the future hero must be the same, so they are rolled simultaneously from equal lumps of material. If you completely form one leg, it will be difficult to find the right amount of wool for the second.
Felt two identical pieces of wool. Periodically, the workpieces are turned over and compared in size.
The upper parts of the arms will be attached to the body, so there is no need to knock down the hair in these places. It should be fluffy and fleecy. The shape of the hands can be any. The master class suggests making long paws with large palms. The limbs are made from large locks of wool so that they are elastic and not “dried.”
After the outline is formed, the fingers are drawn. To do this, longitudinal grooves are made along the edges of the workpiece.
All small details are worked out at the preparation stage. Forming fingers and other indentations on the arms attached to the body will be very difficult. Therefore, before fitting the limbs, they are detailed as much as possible.
The finished arms and legs should be fluffy on top and dense at the ends. Then they begin to roll them to the body. To do this, they place the fluffy fur of the monster’s hands in the right place and begin to insert the needle, piercing it approximately to the middle of the body.
Gradually, the edges of the limbs will begin to merge with the main part. There should be no sharp transitions or joints.
Design of the character's face
To complete the craft, you need to choose a facial expression for it. The monster's face in the instructions is kind and mischievous. It was performed by attaching woolen eyes to the hero’s head, and also by embroidering the mouth with thread. You can use other techniques, as well as combine them.
Step-by-step design of the toy's face:
You can give any accessories to the monster. They are made from the same wool or other materials. How the craft will be decorated depends only on the imagination of the needlewoman.
If inaccuracies were made during work, you can hide them with a toy outfit. The same felting from wool will help you create a wardrobe for your character. The clothing is formed from thin sheets of felted wool. By pinning it over the entire surface, you can dress the toy in pants or a sweater. A crocheted suit will also work as clothing.
A toy with a secret filling
From felt you can create not only cute animals, but also other interesting crafts. But some toys are too bulky, so it will be difficult to make them from wool alone. Even if the needlewoman acquires a sufficient amount of material, it is possible that the needle simply will not pierce large parts to the required depth.
Therefore, to create three-dimensional crafts, the filling method is used. As a filler, you can use synthetic winterizer or foam blanks. Soft padding can be used to form any curves, but foam elements can only be wrapped in a woolen shell.
Working with fillers is as simple as regular dry felting. With the help of a needle, the pile becomes tangled, penetrating into the workpiece. The finished felted product resembles a whole woolen craft and does not give away its secret filling. At the same time, the weight of the toy will be small.
Wool in combination with polystyrene foam is often used to make Christmas tree decorations and other round things. You can purchase the blank at a craft store. The craftswoman will be able to decorate the finished craft using any technology - beads, patterns, rhinestones or artificial snow.
Felting wool will help you make unique Easter eggs and a felt chicken for the holiday. The nest for the composition can be made from real straw.
Felting is an activity that wins hearts. Therefore, you need to be extremely careful, because the first toy on the shelf is very insidious, because it will definitely “call” its comrades with it, and the hand-maker will wake up, having already created a whole zoo of cute woolen animals. And dry felting ideas for beginners will help him with this.
Felt (English) – [noun] felt, felt; [verb] to felt wool, to knock down felt
I think, first of all, it wouldn’t hurt to find out the answer to the most important question - why does wool fall off? It's all in its structure! Remember, not so long ago there was an advertisement on TV for a shampoo that made your hair smooth and silky? Then they showed the ugly split ends in close-up. So, sheep's wool in normal condition looks about the same =)
Comparison of human hair and sheep wool. Are there many differences?
Because of this “layering,” human hair can even form tangles and “fall off.” But what is not good for our hair is good for felting. It is this structure of sheep wool that allows you to create wonderful toys, clothes, felt boots, carpets and much more.
Naturally, not only sheep’s wool is suitable for felting. You can use alpaca, camel, llama and yak wool, as well as cashmere, anagora and mohair.
Who wants a sheep? =) Felting (felting, felting) is the process of creating various products from unspun wool by interlocking and interweaving its fibers in various ways.
There are many different types of felting - dry felting, wet felting, nuno felting, knit felting. Below I will discuss the main techniques.
Basic dry felting techniques for beginners
First of all, let's get acquainted with the technique of dry felting wool. Although it appeared much later than wet felting, it is currently gaining more and more popularity. With a regular needle you can create truly unique creations! Here, take a look at works of famous masters
I want to warn you that this type of creativity is not suitable for children under 10 years old and those who like to create while watching TV (although I do this). If you are too distracted, you can pierce your finger right through - the needles are very sharp, and the notches are good at tearing the skin.
I will briefly describe the process:
The wool layout is soaked in a hot soapy solution, then ironed and rubbed in different directions, gradually increasing the pressure. To facilitate work in the initial stages, a vibratory grinder is often used. You get a canvas - felt.
Advice. When making patterns for the desired product, keep in mind that when wet felting, the wool will shrink by 30-40 percent
Wet felting technique
This step-by-step description of the wet felting technique will help beginners understand (and, I hope, motivate to try and enjoy) the process =)
You will need:
- unspun wool,
- bubble wrap,
- bamboo napkin,
- soap,
- warm water.
- Separate identical shreds of wool about 8 centimeters long from the woolen tape. Place them on bubble wrap in one direction, slightly overlapping each other. Similarly, we lay out 3-4 layers, the wool fibers in each of which are perpendicular to the previous one.
- The last layer can be applied with a pattern made from scraps of woolen thread, scraps of wool, etc.
- Prepare a soap solution. To do this, dissolve soap in warm water (there is a special soap for wet felting, which is gentle on the skin of your hands, but you can also use baby soap, liquid soap, or even dishwashing detergent) - whatever you have on hand. We wet our workpiece and cover it with a net or bubble wrap.
Using soft circular movements, stroke the fur in all directions. Gradually increase the pressure. This stage can be completed when individual fibers no longer separate from our fabric. - Place the workpiece along with the film on a bamboo napkin and roll it into a tight roll. We wrap this structure in a towel - this will help remove excess water. We ride back and forth a hundred times. Then we unfold it, turn the canvas 90 degrees and make a roll again.
- When falling, the canvas will decrease by 25-30 percent. Rinse the finished canvas in warm water and leave to dry. Do not wring - just squeeze slightly to remove some of the water.
Carpets, paintings, clothes, bags, jewelry and accessories are made this way.
Visually about wet felting:
Felting in the washing machine
One of the techniques for wet felting wool is felting in a washing machine. It requires almost no physical effort and can be done in two ways:
- Using a deboning mold
Volumetric forms are covered with wool, fixed with nylon and sent to the washing machine.
Cute Easter gift - wool eggs felted in a washing machine - Felting knitted items
Currently, you can find special yarn for felting on sale. Using a crochet hook or knitting needles, you knit a product that is 30 percent larger than required (to know the exact shrinkage, a test sample is felted and the compression in width and length is calculated from it) and either sent to the washing machine or felted by hand. Looks very interesting, doesn't it? And it’s easier than wet felting, in my opinion.
Felting is for the laziest. I tied it into the washing machine;) That's all!
So, we looked at the basic techniques of felting wool - a very interesting creative process. If you are a beginner felter and there are some points you don’t understand, don’t hesitate to ask questions!
Don't be afraid to experiment!
