Home Diseases and pests Patterns for removable collars. How to sew a detachable collar? DIY decorative collars

Diseases and pests

Patterns for removable collars. How to sew a detachable collar? DIY decorative collars

When creating a new item, most stylists place emphasis on some small details: neckline, sleeve length, cuff width or collar model. Such small details can set a particular style for a piece of clothing and indicate certain character traits of its owner.

Recently, special attention has been paid to collars, which can revive and update even the most boring and out-of-fashion dress. Even if the outfit itself does not require its presence, a collar can be sewn if you have a pattern and small pieces of fabric on hand. Let's learn how to create a pattern yourself and sew a decoration for a dress with a round neckline.

Traditionally they are divided into 3 categories:

According to the shape, a piece of clothing is divided into:

Which collar suits a dress with a round neckline?

For dresses with an open round neckline, a set-in Peter Pan turn-down is best." The main feature of this type is the presence of protruding rounded edges. The edges are wide in front, they narrow only towards the back.

Items decorated with a Peter Pan turn-down collar look very sophisticated. Such dresses are worn by both little girls and schoolgirls, as well as older young ladies.

Making a collar pattern for a dress

The Peter Pan pattern is very easy to make. The whole process, even for the least experienced needlewoman, will not take more than 5 minutes.

Process step by step:

As a basis for the pattern, you will need a pattern of the main parts of the dress.
The measurements that will be required are the sum of the neck lengths of the front and back pieces.
The first point is placed in the upper left corner.
From it to the right, the length of the back neck is set aside with an increase of 1 cm.
From the original point, lay 3 cm down and put a mark. It is connected to the rightmost point of the straight segment.
The width of the product is laid down vertically from the original point.
A smooth bend of the lower part is laid along the formed lines.

The pattern is transferred to the fabric, not forgetting to leave some fabric for the seams.

Advice! If you need the collar to be rigid, a more stable and dense material, for example, non-woven fabric, is hemmed under the main fabric.

How to sew a collar for a dress with your own hands

Once the pattern is ready, you can proceed to sewing the collar. To do this, use the following instructions.

The pattern must be transferred to both the main fabric and the interlining. As a result, you should get 4 parts from non-woven fabric and 4 parts of the product itself.
The parts are glued with non-woven material.
Having placed the parts with their front sides facing each other, they are stitched along the outer bend.
The parts are turned inside out, thoroughly ironed and stitched along the outer curve, retreating approximately 2-3 mm from the edge.
The inner bend line is processed using an overlocker or a zigzag stitch.
On the dress, for which the collar is being prepared, marks are made using small pins.
The collar is attached to the dress along the neckline.
To securely fix the accessory, it is attached along the entire line of the neckline.

A sewn collar can be decorated with lace or braid sewn around the edges. You can attach a large brooch or a small rhinestone in the middle, which will shimmer when exposed to the rays of light.

A collar is a functional and decorative element of clothing that borders the bottom of the neck of shoulder garments. Its usual design is just a strip of fabric. Varieties consist of an upper and lower part, which are usually sealed from the inside. In addition to fabric, knitted, felt and leather, models are lace and knitted.

Before sewing a collar, you need to decide on the cut and style.

Collar types

One-piece.
Set-in.
Removable.

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Basic collar styles

Rack.
Shirt.
Flat turn-down.
Raised turn-down.
Shawl.
Jabot.
Clamp.
Designer.

The most common are standard shirt collars with a one-piece or cut-off stand. Such a detail can become part of the patterns of both women's and men's shirts.

Sewing a collar

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Depending on the model and shape of the neckline, the pattern can be one, two or four parts. You need to connect a part that has a fold with other cut parts so that its edges meet at the cut. The cut usually accompanies the fastening of the garment. The two parts are sewn from the inside out on three sides, and then turned inside out.

Before transferring the pattern onto the fabric, it is recommended to measure the neckline. This value should be equal to the length of the paper collar configuration (it is measured by the stitching cut), or exceed it by 0.5-1 cm. If necessary, the patterns are lengthened.

If you are sewing a collar with a partial stand-up, make the upper part slightly larger than the lower one in length and width - then the part will fit better.

Collar reinforcement

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Almost all fabric collar models are reinforced from the inside with a special cushioning material. This adds strength to the edges of the collar and hides seam allowances that can sometimes be visible. Gaskets are made of adhesive sealant (for example, non-woven tape), rigid or light materials, and fabrics of intermediate density. The cut of the compacting layer must take into account the direction of movement of the grain of the model.

Features of working with a collar

The reinforcing material is attached to the underside of the upper part if we are sewing a turn-down model. A sewn-in hard seal is attached to the necks of products made from light, thin fabrics using a low-heat iron. The gasket must first be basted to the underside of the upper part of the structure.
If you are using a turn-down collar, the seal is placed from the inside of the upper part - where the fold runs.
The stand-up style is strengthened from the outside. In this case, the seal is cut out for the whole part and attached from the inside, along the fold. Adhesive pads in these models are used only to add density to the upper part, up to the fold line.
The pattern of the seal usually matches the configuration of the collar parts. Gaskets made of medium and low density material, as well as adhesive seals, are cut taking into account allowances. They are cut off after applying the stitching as close to it as possible. On dense gaskets, excess material is cut off immediately before applying the stitching.

A simple version of a sewn-in collar is the “stand-up” collar. The model with a placket with a lapel is called a cowl collar. The strip is attached directly to the seam line of the neckline, along the entire circumference of the product. The sharp corners of the plank, on which the cut is usually made, can be rounded.

The pattern of the model is made from a single piece with a fold and is a rectangular piece.

Processing technology

Cut out the part and the seal.
Fold the inside neck seam allowance inside out along the line along which the garment will be sewn. Trim off excess, reducing to 6 mm.
Fold the product along the fold line facing inward. Make the spare edges of the outer part wider.
Cut the corners along the folding line diagonally.
Press the seams at the ends of the strip. Fold in the seam edges, directing them towards the inside of the model. Iron.
Sew the finished collar with the outer part to the neck.

Two-piece stand-up collar

The pattern of the model on a standing bar consists of external and internal fragments. The ends can be joined at the front or back. In this case, the seal is cut according to the contours of the external part. To avoid excessive density, excess corners are cut off diagonally from the upper edge of the seal.

Fold the neck seam allowance inward along the bottom edge of the garment diagonally. Trim excess material to 6 mm.

Align the top cuts of the workpiece and its ends facing inward. Sew the details along the top edges.

Trim the seam, allowing for enough material for one more on the outer piece.

In places where V-shaped bends are formed, cuts are made. Corners are removed diagonally.

Place spare material inside the part. Machine stitch along the entire top.

Turn the product right side out. Move the top seam inward slightly. Iron and sew to clothing.

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The classic collar model is a turn-down shirt collar on a stand. The standard shirt fabric pattern consists of two main pieces and two support pieces. The margin in both cases is left at 0.8-1 cm.
It is not recommended to raise the collar higher than 1-1.5 cm above the bar. Its length in this case is equal to the length of the neck of the product itself.
An adhesive gasket is used as a seal. The seal patterns are one support piece and one turn-down piece with no stock.
If the drawings of the stand and base are combined into one configuration, the sewing process will be greatly simplified.

Processing technology

Align existing collar pieces with right sides facing inward.
Fold the material with pins at the corners so that the top piece is a couple of millimeters larger than the bottom. This is necessary for more accurate processing of the outer seam.
Go through machine stitching. The stitch size when approaching the corners should be 1.5 mm. After the stitch reaches the corner, apply one stitch across - this will make the corner sharper.
In order for the outer seam to be made with high quality, the stitching is done not along the very border of the interlining fabric, but at a distance of 1-1.5 mm from it.
Trim the corner reserves of material one above the other (in a cascade), retreating 1 mm from the line.
Turn the model out by hand, without using any tools that could tear the corners. It is important to maintain the symmetry of the ends.
Machine stitches of equal size at equal distances from the edge.
Sew the placket, folding the seam allowance.
Pin the face of the outer post to the face of the lower main piece. The stitch should go along the very border between the gasket and the supporting part.
To ensure that the model's curve takes the shape of the neck, the bend is fixed and connected to the collar along its entire length.
On the wrong side, mark the border of the future plank. The length of this line should be equal to the length of the neck.
Attach the right side of the support piece to the wrong side of the shirt. The spare edges should lie on the face of the product. Connect the inner and outer parts of the plank.
Form a bend and steam the part.

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The flat turn-down collar rests completely on the shoulders of the product without rising above them. An example of such a style is the “sailor jacket”.

The model, which includes a front clasp, is one solid piece. The back clasp option consists of two parts with excess material and two sealing parts (no stock as standard).

Processing technology

Attach the seal to the two upper parts of the base.
Connect all parts of the model, machine stitch the outer edges.
Trim seam allowances. At the bends along the entire perimeter of the pattern, make V-shaped cuts. Bevel spare edges and trim corners.
Smooth the replacement material towards the bottom of the product.
Sew along the previously placed face seam of the lower piece, taking in the seam allowances.
Turn the collar and its corners right side out.
You can manually roll the seam towards the lower part. The model is ironed.
Sew on the collar, placing it between the garment and the inner facing.

Raised turn-down collar

A raised turn-down collar with a partial stand-up collar is a model in which the lower part imitates a supporting part, and the upper part bends down. At the back, the bar may be slightly raised. Used for modeling coats, raincoats, jackets, jackets.

The stand of a raised collar is sewn to the collar, not the other way around. The pattern consists of two parts for the upper collar and two parts for the lower supporting base. The lower collar and upper placket are cut out in one copy.

Processing technology

Connect the bottom bar to the bottom of the base. Start stitching from the center of the stand to the edges. During the sewing process, the base material is pulled back with your free hand.
The second edge of the support also begins to be sewn from the center. Connect the bottom bar to the top of the model.
Cut allowance reserves. Reduce the size of the lower collar. To do this, connect the seams along which the stand was previously attached. Shape the product so that it follows the curve of the neck.
Cut off the resulting excess at the edge of the lower collar (3-5 mm).
Place the pieces facing each other. The top part should be larger than the bottom.
The model begins to be sewn from the centers of the parts to the edges. Having brought the stitch to the corner, lift it with your free hand so that the stitches merge into an arc. Make sure that the corners are bent towards the lower collar part.
Move the seam to the lower part by 1-3 mm. The size of the roll increases with increasing tissue density.
Sew the edges of the product. Connect the seams to the strips.
Form a collar and sew it into the product.

Collar in 5 minutes

A patch collar is an independent detail of an outfit and an accessory. Sometimes it is a type of costume jewelry. The model is not sewn into the product, its production does not require special skills, and sometimes does not require stitches (holes are made using an awl). It can be completed even in 5 minutes.

It is made by cutting off the collar of an old shirt. A fastener in the form of a button or ribbon is attached to the part, either front or back. Decorated with rhinestones and beads.

They are made according to neck measurements from various types of fabric, as well as from felt or leather. The pattern of a turn-down product with a fastener to the top or to the bottom can be lengthened, making the collar dimensionless.

Good afternoon our dear readers!

In the next modeling lesson, we will look at one of the most interesting and extensive topics in design - collars.

To start modeling collars, we need to have (Fig. 1). To do this, there is no need to perform calculations and build it using rulers and a pencil - just go to the main page of our website, select “basic dress pattern” and indicate your measurements. Then the program will instantly create your individual pattern, you can even print it on an A4 printer. Instructions on how to do this are on the page.

Let’s start our “immersion” into the topic of modeling collars with the simplest and most understandable - stand-up collars.

All stand-up collars are built in the same way, sequentially, they just have different values and line configurations. Collars can have rounded or straight ends, overlap each other and be modeled end-to-end, more or less adjacent to the neck. The clasp can be located both at the front and at the back.

Let's now look at the construction of the stand-up collar as on a green blouse (Figure 2a).

To build a stand-up collar, you need to measure the length of the neck of the back and front. We get a specific number (for example 20 cm). Then subtract 0.5 cm from this value and plot this value along a straight line. To ensure that the stand does not move away from the neck, we raise the front angle by 3-4 cm (the larger the value, the closer the stand will fit to the neck). Now set the desired height of the stand (3 cm). And we draw the smooth lines of our stand-up collar. Don't forget to keep the height of the stand constant! The blue reference notch separates the front and back of the collar - when sewing the stand collar, you will line it up with the shoulder seam.

Figure 2b shows a drawing of a stand-up collar like on a blouse with an ornament.

The sequence of drawing the collar remains the same. In a straight line, we set aside the length of the back neck minus 0.5 cm. We raise the front corner by 2-3 cm. We set the height of the stand according to the model - this value is arbitrary (4-6 cm). And we draw a beautiful stand! Also, don’t forget to check the height of the stand.

You can often see sweaters and coats with a one-piece stand. This collar fits well to the neck due to the transition of the darts into the stand-up lines.

As shown in Figure 3, we will initially set the width of the side (this is the amount by how much one part of the shelf will overlap another). Usually this is about 2 cm for a central fastener (buttons in one row as in the photo) and 4 cm for the so-called double-breasted fastener (two rows of parallel buttons). To prevent the collar from cutting into the neck, you need to widen the neck of the front and back by 1-1.5 cm and deepen it by 0.5-0.7 cm. Connect the resulting points with lines (red).

We decide on the height of the stand. In the example with a one-piece cut stand, the height of the stand gradually decreases - the largest value is deposited along the middle seam of the back 5-7 cm, along the shoulder section it is already 4-6 cm. Along the middle seam of the back we set aside the height of the stand along the continuation of the line, and in the area of the shoulder seam, draw perpendicular to the red auxiliary lines. We understand that the line of transition between the stand and the shoulder seam should be smooth, so we adjust the line by cutting off the corners a little (green lines). The final step is to draw out the top cut of the stand, rounding it in front.

Now it's time to turn flat collars. Also one of the easiest to build.

Let's pay attention to the jacket in the first photo. Initially, we need to transfer the shoulder dart on the back and the chest dart on the front into the armhole line - this way it is much more convenient to draw a flat collar. Now we place the back piece on the shelf, extending 1-1.5 cm along the shoulder section. We decide on the width of the collar and draw it directly on the folded parts (blue line)! Along the middle back seam we set aside the largest value (5-6 cm), a little less along the shoulder seam (4.5 -5 cm) (Figure 4 and 5).

Stand-up collars. Probably each of us has some item with such a collar. Most often they can be found wearing shirts. To simplify sewing, the collar is made with a one-piece stand.

Let's start drawing a stand-up collar like on a blue blouse. As in stand-up collars, we initially draw a straight line for the length of the neck minus 0.5 cm. From one edge (where the middle back seam will be) to set the required bend of the bottom line of the collar, we set aside 3-4 cm perpendicularly, then the stand-up value (2. 5 – 3 cm), and the so-called “back width of the collar” (5-7 cm). To draw the front corner of the stand-up collar, set aside 5 cm to the left and about 9 cm up (the values may be different - it depends on the height of the stand and the width of the rise you have chosen). And we try to follow the pattern, draw out the collar!!! The stand can be either cut-off or one-piece (Figure 6).

Shawl cut collar. These collars are very impressive and are not labor intensive compared to jacket ones. The upper collar is cut together with the collar, which greatly simplifies the whole job. So if you want to sew a jacket for the first time, we recommend starting with this model.

Pay attention to the configuration of the lines on the last two models of jackets - we see clearly prominent corners. This type of shawl collar is called apache

Let's make a model design of the shawl collar as in the first model. First, let's set the width of the side to about 2-2.5 cm (Figure 7). Now, based on the model, you need to determine the depth of the cutout and place point x. We expand the neck of the shelf (and back) by 2.5-3 cm - we get point a. Then, in the opposite direction, set aside 4 cm - put point b. We connect x and b with a line and continue this straight line a little to the top. The resulting line is called the collar inflection line (red). Now we measure the length of the back neckline and, using a compass from point a, make a notch (point c) on the inflection line of the collar. The segment ac is equal to the length of the back neck.

To determine the position of the lower point of the middle of the collar (point d), from point c, tangentially, we plot the amount of the collar’s offset plus 0.8 cm. (For example: the offset width is 6 cm, then the segment cd = 6.8 cm). We put point d. Now we connect points d and a with a smooth line, end the line at the neck - we get the bottom cut of the shawl collar.

Set aside the width of the shawl's flap perpendicular to the lower edge of the collar (6-7 cm).

The last step is to draw a smooth line for the top cut of the shawl collar (green line) from point x to the middle seam.

Now let's figure out what parts we finally got (Figure 8).

Picking. We need to draw an internal hem line to which the lining is sewn (blue dotted line), draw it in a straight line, at a distance of 3 cm from the midline, and then with a slightly convex line and end at the shoulder seam, at a distance of 3-4 cm from point a. On a separate sheet of paper we transfer the part along the green line, then from point a along the shoulder seam (it is important that there is a right angle in the area where the hem transitions into the back facing (Figure 8a)), along the inner and outer hem lines (blue solid and dotted lines) .

The lower collar in shawl-type collars is cut off. Also, on a separate piece of paper, we transfer the upper part of the collar (green lines) bounded by a blue dotted line.

The front is copied completely, only without the lower collar section.

And we saved the most interesting for last!

Jacket collars. Such collars are made of four parts - lower and upper collars and two stand parts. Sometimes the racks are made one-piece. The depth of the neckline varies - the first button can be located above or below the chest level, or completely go down to the waist. The width of the lapel is also varied - from very narrow to covering most of the front. The jacket type collar is a very important element. Such a collar must be made with special care, otherwise the appearance of the entire product will be ruined.

Let's make a model design of a jacket-type collar as on the latest model of a jacket made of black fabric with a white print. The first steps of construction are very similar to a shawl collar - we draw a border 4 cm wide (if the fastener is double-breasted) or 2-2.5 cm wide (for a central fastener). We expand the neck by 1-1.5 cm, we get point a. To determine the position of the collar inflection line, set aside 1.5-2 cm to the left and place point b. We decide on the desired depth of the neckline and draw the bend line of the collar. From point a we make a notch with a compass, the radius (segment ac) is equal to the length of the back neck - we put point c. Then from point c, tangentially, we plot the width of the collar at the back plus 0.8 cm. We get point d. Connect points d and a with a smooth line. Now, at point d we restore the perpendicular to line dа and on it we set aside, first, the height of the stand (2-2.5 cm), then the width of the collar (4-5 cm). (Figure 9 and 9a)

And now we will need to draw the departure lines of the collar, flap and lapel. To understand these concepts, pay attention to Figure 11.
To more clearly imagine how the collar will look in the finished product, let’s draw it on the right side on the front detail (blue lines). The depth of the lapel is about 5 cm, the width is set to 7 cm. The base point of the opening is 3 cm down from the neckline along the inflection line of the collar. After we like the configuration of the lines of our collar, we will reflect it relative to the inflection line (green lines). It is most convenient to do this using tracing paper.

Now all that remains is to draw out the entire stand. We draw the upper cut 0.5 cm below the inflection line, leaving a width of 2 -2.5 cm (blue line).

Figure 10 shows all the resulting parts:

Picking. The shawl collar is drawn similarly. Dotted line at a distance of 4 cm from the middle of the shelf.
Collar (lower and upper). Copied completely with stand.
Shelf. We translate everything, just without the collar.

The topic of collars is voluminous, varied and quite complex. So, if you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask them at

Any turn-down collar is cut from upper and lower parts. If the fastener of the product is located in the front, then the collar is represented by one solid part, and its ends are connected at the place of the cut for the fastener.

The turn-down collar on products with a fastener on the back consists of 2 parts - right and left, which are joined at one end in the center of the front neckline, and at the other end at the slit for the zipper.

Attach the seal to the wrong sides of the top 2 collar pieces, right sides together. Line up the cut edges and pin all the top pieces to the loose bottom pieces. Baste parts of the collar, but leave the edges of the neckline free, remove the pins.
Run the machine along the outer edges of all collar pieces. If the fabric is thin, then set the stitching to small stitches. When strengthening each side of the corner, step back 1.5 cm from the top. If the fabric is a little thicker, then make a few stitches across the tops of the corners to blunt them a little. Remove the basting.
Trim seam allowances. At the bends, make “V” shaped cuts into them around the bends (top). On 2 sides of each corner, bevel the seam allowances diagonally and cut off the corners. If the stitching gathers, smooth out the collar seam as you move the presser foot.
Using a sleeve ironing board, press the seam, opening the seam allowances with the tip of the iron. For rounded sections of the collar, it is better to use a curved section of the board. The seam allowances should be pressed towards the bottom of the collar, and remember to press the stitching seam again section by section.
Machine stitch along the collar seam, working from the right side of the bottom collar piece, taking the seam allowance close to the seam line. If, due to the shape of the collar, you cannot sew the entire seam, then sew while you can.
Turn the collar pieces right side out. Turn out the corners using a needle with a thread folded in half and a knot tied at the end, first passing the needle inside and then pulling it back out.
Try using your finger to roll the seam a little, moving it towards the bottom piece. Press the offset seam edge by running the tip of the iron along the seam, section by section. Then iron the collar from the front side through the fabric to prevent unwanted shine from appearing.

If ironing does not hold the seam offset towards the bottom piece, pin the collar pieces along the edge of the neckline. Baste along the outer edge. Remove the basting from the finished product.

The easiest way to sew a turn-down flat collar is to place it between the garment and the inner hem and stitch together. A turn-down flat collar made of one or two parts is sewn in the same way, except that the collar from the one-piece part is turned with its ends toward the middle of the front.

Before you start sewing on the collar, sew down the shoulder seams and sew the darts running towards the neck line. Attach the zipper. Mark the middle of the front with a pin.
For a collar consisting of 2 parts, baste along the neck line, connecting 2 layers of fabric. At the junction of the front ends of each collar piece, overlap them when basting.
The collar must be pinned to the front side of the product. The top of the collar piece should be at the top, the raw edges should be aligned, and the markings should be aligned. Place a point where the collar pieces intersect with a pin and baste the collar. Remove the pins.
Cut out the inner facing and pin it to the top part of the collar along the neckline, right side inward. Align the edges of the neckline. Leave 1/2 inch ends on each side of the zipper cut. Baste. Machine stitch along the neckline through all layers of fabric.
Remove the basting. Trim the seam allowances, leaving the seam allowance on the product side a little wider. Trim the corners of the facing seam allowances diagonally at the cut area at the shoulder seams and at the back. Make “V” shaped cuts along the curves, making them more often on the more curved areas.

You can update your wardrobe in a variety of ways. This time the reader will be presented with 15 amazing ideas on how to do this for mere pennies.

1. Bright clutch

A bright and stylish clutch that can be made from a piece of polyvinyl chloride, most often used to make napkins for table settings, good glue and a thin black belt.

2. Children's cape

A stylish children's cape that you can easily make with your own hands from two small pieces of fleece and a satin ribbon. You just need to put two pieces of fabric together, make holes in them and put a ribbon through them. The edges of the fabric can be processed using a sewing machine or, if you lack the skills, using fabric adhesive tape.

3. Decorative scarf-snood

An unnecessary knitted T-shirt or skirt can be turned into a stylish snood scarf that is still relevant this season, which will be a wonderful addition to your autumn look.

4. Skirt

Anyone who knows how to sew buttons can make such a skirt in a way that does not require any special skills to create it. To implement this idea you will need thick fabric, scissors and a large button.

5. Jacket with a slit

If you have a jacket in your closet that has been collecting dust for several seasons without use, you can try to do a similar trick with it. Armed with a ruler and a textile marker, draw a triangle on the back of the pullover so that its tip matches the collar. Cut out, secure the edges with fabric tape, and sew Velcro or a hook onto the collar. The trendy jacket with a slit on the back is ready!

6. Sheepskin vest

All you need to create this stylish vest is a rectangular piece of dubbing and fittings. Using scissors, make neat cuts for the arms, sew the purchased accessories on the back and enjoy a cozy and unique item made with your own hands.

7. Sweater with patches

You can update an old, boring sweater with two curly patches on the elbows. Simply buy a small piece of knit or sequin fabric, cut two identical patches from it, and use a thread and needle to sew them onto the sweater.

8. Sweater with lace

A small piece of lace will help transform a sweater that is far from new. Carefully sew openwork fabric from the inside along the bottom seam of the item, and the dull sweater will turn into a charming and romantic product.

9. Stylish denim jacket

A wide lace insert will transform an ordinary denim jacket into a stylish and feminine fall wardrobe item.

10. Wool decoration

You can make a charming necklace from leftover wool yarn and accessories. This decoration can be sewn to the collar of a knitted sweater or worn with any other outfit as an independent accessory.

11. Sweater with an original collar

Small curly cuts will help to update and add charm to an old knitted sweater. The main thing in this matter is accuracy and imagination.

12. Petals

Petals cut from thick fabric of different colors and sewn onto a plain sweater will help turn an absolutely inconspicuous item into a designer item.

13. Cardigan with pearls

Pearl-like beads, which can be bought in craft stores, are an excellent material for decorating clothes. These beads can be used to decorate the collar, shoulders or the entire cardigan to give the product a truly luxurious and stylish look.

14. Jeans with leopard inserts

You can update old, but no less favorite jeans with the help of leopard print inserts. Pieces of fabric with an animal print that is trendy this fall will help give jeans a new stylish look and disguise various signs of wear, such as scuffs, holes and stains.

15. Charming collar

A simple collar decor will help to update and improve the appearance of shirts and blouses. Office blouses can be embroidered with beads or beads, and the collars of everyday shirts can be decorated with spikes, rivets or chains.

Continuing the topic, I would like to present some more with my own hands.