A wide-angle lens is a device that has a shorter focal length than a normal lens. Such devices cover a much larger angle of space than is accessible to the human eye. Due to the fact that the frame is no larger in size than usual, all objects in it will be smaller than when shooting with a traditional lens. In terms of expressiveness and optics wide angle lens allows you to get noticeably more interesting result, since with its help, when shooting, the effect of moving plans away from each other is much more noticeable. Such devices are characterized by a greater depth of field than standard models.
Peculiarities
A wide-angle lens is characterized by such basic features as a wide viewing angle, as well as a shorter minimum focusing distance. The main characteristics cannot be called unique. This category of lenses also includes ultra-wide-angle lenses. This type does not have any restrictions, but photographers usually classify it as those devices for which the focal length is below 24 millimeters. Due to certain specific properties of this category of devices, shooting with their help has a number of features. Perspective distortion is considered one of them, that is, objects located closest to them appear much larger than those located in the background. This effect will be maximum if you get close to the main subject, while also including the one in the foreground in the photo. This distortion is especially appreciated when shooting landscapes, which allows you to give the scene additional volume. But because of this feature, you cannot take pictures of people, since the proportions of the body and head will be significantly distorted.
Usage
A wide-angle lens is useful for photographing architectural objects, but it is important to remember one detail. The axis must not be allowed to tilt relative to the horizon, otherwise due to large number vertical lines the space will be noticeably distorted. The photo will produce the so-called effect of falling buildings. Professionals often use this technique as an additional one to get an interesting photo. Architectural structures It is worth shooting using a special type of lens that can change the optical axis by tilting or shifting, thereby correcting the perspective distortion. For example, a Nikon wide-angle lens is capable of efficiently coping with such a task. Such devices are almost indispensable for shooting in confined spaces, since the photographer will not have the opportunity to step back to properly capture the scene.
The wide-angle lens for Canon has design features and technical capabilities that make it vulnerable to flare and extraneous light. Because of this, you have to use a protective lens hood when shooting, which protects the front lens from sunlight and also reduces the likelihood of glare appearing in the picture.
Under ultra wide angle For the purposes of this article, we will mean any lens with a focal length of less than 20 mm (film equivalent). There are two types of lenses that fall into this category - a regular ultra-wide angle and a fisheye. The article will not talk about the technical capabilities of these lenses, but about the creative capabilities - “ultra-wide” opens up the opportunity for us to see the world from a completely unusual perspective, which is undoubtedly fertile ground for various creative experiments.
"Eyes Wide Open"
I have experience with two ultra wide angle lenses - fisheye Zenithar 16/2.8(on crop and full frame) and with lens Samyang 14mm f/2.8. I’ll say right away that both of these lenses the best way manifest themselves on a full-frame camera, however, there are “ultra-wide” lenses on sale specifically for cropped lenses - their focal length is 8-10 mm on short end, which in terms of a full frame gives 12-16 mm, so my experience will be quite applicable to these lenses. However, let's immediately agree that in what follows I will operate with “full-frame” focal lengths.
What is the insidiousness of an ultra-wide angle?
At first glance, it may seem that a wide angle is a huge advantage when photographing architecture and other large objects at close range. It would be very convenient to take photographs during excursions! While owners of standard lenses squeeze into the walls to fit the entire object into the frame, you photograph with complete peace of mind architectural ensembles and the interiors of cathedrals and museums. But you have to pay for convenience... To begin with, I will give two examples of photographs of a certain object, which were taken using 14 mm and 50 mm lenses so that the scale was approximately the same.
How different are photographs of the same object! As you probably already guessed, the left photo was taken almost point-blank with a 14mm lens. Perhaps, for such “creative” objects, this shooting style is acceptable, but when photographing classical architectural compositions, such an aggressive perspective quickly begins to irritate.
The photo on the left was taken with a 14mm lens, the right - with a 16mm fisheye.
Of course, using Adobe Photoshop Lightroom you can partially compensate for the perspective effect...
But at the same time, objects turn out with terribly distorted proportions - implausibly elongated upward and flattened on the sides! In addition, to maintain the proportions of the frame, it had to be significantly cropped. Thus, the resolution of the photo suffered.
You can also “straighten” a photo from Zenithar16 in Lightroom by applying a lens profile to it Canon 15mm f/2.8 fisheye. The result will be approximately the same, but with noticeable blurring of the corners (actually because of this, I changed the fisheye to an ordinary ultra-wide angle, which initially gives a “smooth” picture).
Ultra-wide angle for architecture - are you sure this is a good idea?
Often on lens review sites, in particular on photozone.de, ultra-wide angle lenses are positioned as almost special lenses for photographing architecture. Personally, I don't think this idea is very good.
As already mentioned, if you photograph buildings from a close distance and from a low point using a wide-angle lens, they will appear to be “falling” backwards. One more example:
Perspective can be leveled in Photoshop, but this does not always work out well - with strong compensation for the effect, the shape and proportions of objects in the upper part of the frame will suffer greatly.
If you really need to get high quality photos architectural objects, if possible do not use an ultra-wide angle. Look for a shooting position that will fit your subject into the frame when using a “normal” lens (40-50mm) or even a telephoto lens. Horizon line - the closer to the middle of the frame, the less perspective distortion.
Here is an example of a photograph of an architectural object taken at a focal length of 105 millimeters from a distance.
No falling walls, crooked lines or distorted proportions! Agree, looking at such photographs of architectural objects is much more pleasant than these:
Or these:
Of course, using a long lens to photograph architecture is not always possible. It often happens that architectural objects are located very poorly - they are obscured by trees, billboards, and other buildings. There is nothing to do here - salvation is only in the wide-angle. But still, try to shoot at the maximum focal length possible under the given conditions.
p.s. It's not about artistic photographs, in which perspective distortions play the role of an artistic device.
Nature photography
Landscape photography is the true strength of ultra-wide-angle optics! The field of view of a 14mm lens at full frame is about 120 degrees horizontal - this is approximately what a person sees with both eyes.
When photographing nature, as opposed to cityscapes, severe perspective distortion is not as critical as when photographing buildings. On the contrary, an aggressive perspective gives the photo additional dynamics and depth.
When composing a shot with an “upper horizon,” a large number of foreground objects (sometimes even the photographer’s feet) fall into the frame. This forces you to take a more responsible approach to choosing a shooting point. But the photographer has the opportunity to convey in one frame all the splendor of the landscape in all details - from the grass or water under your very feet to the horizon line.
When shooting a landscape with an ultra-wide angle, background objects turn out to be very small - this is the specificity of such a small focal length, but this often turns into a huge advantage. Landscapes with clouds are especially good with the ultra-wide angle. If with a regular lens the clouds were just a background that complemented the composition, then with an ultra-wide angle they often become full-fledged key objects.
But this photo was taken with a 24mm lens:
Agree, it turned out more interesting with a 14mm lens!
Even if there is no foreground as such, make the “cloud pattern”, slightly enhanced in Photoshop, the main motif in the landscape.
Of course, with this angle we will encounter vertical objects being blocked due to the perspective effect. The original version of this photo looked like this:
The perspective distortion at the bottom of the image seems catastrophic! What did you expect? No one has repealed the laws of optics. About how to fix such a problem without cropping the edges of the picture (as in the photo with the bell tower), you can ask me a question at Photography Courses, I will gladly tell you everything and show you. Perhaps video tutorials will appear in the foreseeable future.
Is the horizon in the middle a deviation from generally accepted rules of composition or a useful artistic technique?
You may have read or heard that you should avoid the horizon in the middle of your frame at all costs. By at least, in many textbooks the middle horizon is characterized as a flaw in composition. But photography is not physics or mathematics! You can and should deviate from the rules. But still, this should be done with caution, carefully weighing the pros and cons.
For a long time I was an opponent of the middle horizon in the landscape, however, relatively recently I changed my mind on this matter. The main reason for this was to add an ultra-wide-angle lens with a focal length of 14 mm to my arsenal. In a short period of time, many successful photographs were taken with this lens, the horizon in which was located, as if in a mockery of all the rules and canons, exactly in the middle of the frame. Here are some examples:
Gorokhovets, view from Lysa Mountain:
Evening in Vorsma (1):
Evening in Vorsma (2):
I tried to understand why the middle horizon in these photographs does not hurt the eyes at all, but on the contrary, provides a certain effect of presence? And it looks like he figured it out...
A 14 mm lens at full frame has a field of view angle comparable to that of a person (with two eyes, taking into account peripheral vision) - 115-120 degrees. In our normal state, we hold our heads straight and, quite obviously, we are used to seeing the horizon line in the middle! That's the whole solution. That is why, in photographs taken with such a wide angle, the horizon line dividing the frame in half is a completely reasonable compositional move.
From this we can safely conclude that classic rules compositions (which came into photography from painting) on ultra-wide-angle lenses are not so unshakable! It’s the same as Euclid’s geometry and Lobachevsky’s geometry, or classical mechanics and quantum mechanics :)
Conclusion
In conclusion, I want to say that photographing with an ultra-wide-angle lens is not as easy as it might seem at first glance. You will almost always encounter such difficulties. Many people are disappointed in such optics due to a number of its features:
- Severe perspective distortions(you need to learn to correct them in the editor, or use them as a creative technique)
- Distortion(relatively easy to edit in Adobe Lightroom)
- Lack of dynamic range(due to the angle of the large field of view, well-lit objects, as well as objects in deep shadow, will fall into the frame - master HDR)
- When using manual lenses you need to get used to manual mode
If you successfully master the ultra-wide angle and “get into” it, enormous creative possibilities will open up for you!
Wide-angle lenses are often misused or chosen for the wrong reasons. Many newbies really buy good lens a wide angle, a 50mm (because someone suggested) and a longer zoom lens. But the biggest mistake is not understanding how they work, why you need each one specifically and for what situation.
In this article we will look at wide angle lenses. What they do, how to use them, and how to avoid the following five most common mistakes photographers make.
- Everything in the image is the same distance from the lens.
- There is no clear subject.
- A wide-angle lens is only used to fit more objects into the frame.
- Taking bad photos of people.
- Shooting with a wide-angle lens for no reason.
What is a wide angle lens?
Technically, it is any lens that has a wider field of view than the human eye. Back in the days of film, a 50mm lens was considered "normal" because it produced a picture that was closest to what a person sees. Now with digital it's a little more complicated - 50mm is considered normal for full frame cameras, which corresponds to approximately 35mm for APS-C or crop sensors (for the same viewing angle).
Thus, focal lengths greater than 50mm (full frame) or 35mm (APS-C) are considered wide-angle lenses. The shorter the focal length, the wider the frame will be, for example; 15mm, which is ultra-wide (full frame) or 10mm (a special lens made only for APS-C cameras). Even wider lenses are considered fisheye lenses, which make the image almost circular when shooting.
What does a wide angle lens do?
Wide-angle lenses distort objects and improve perspective: objects closer to the camera appear larger than those further away, even if they are the same size in reality.
Look at the photo of the subway sign above; notice how much larger the part closest to the camera is compared to the part further away. This is the result of a wide-angle optical lens. The same thing can be seen in the photo with the Brooklyn Bridge above and the buildings below.
Let's compare the images below taken with a wide-angle and telephoto lens respectively.
17mm lens on a full frame camera (to get this angle of view you need to use 11mm on APS-C)
A 75mm lens on a full frame camera (a 50mm lens on an APS-C camera will give you roughly the same angle of view)
Look at the size of the tractor in the two images. Notice how visually larger the tractor is in the first photo compared to the object in the background. See how the size ratio has changed in the second image? The tractor did not move between pictures, and the distance between objects did not change either. The only thing that changed was the lens the photographer used and the distance between the subject and the camera.
5 Beginner Mistakes When Using a Wide Angle Lens
- Everything in your image is the same distance from the lens
To use a wide-angle lens properly, you need some object close to the lens.
This was shot with a 24mm lens. There is no object here because all the elements are at the same distance from the camera. Compare with the image of the tractor above, especially the wide-angle shot: the tractor literally comes to life in this one
Now let's look at the two images of the bike below. There's nothing that stands out in the photo on the left. As he gets closer, he switches to a bicycle. The photographer was only inches away from the front tire when he took the second photo.
You can't stay hidden when you're shooting wide-angle. To make your photos more interesting, have more depth and perspective - you need to get closer to the objects you are shooting. Try to find an object very close to the lens, something else in the middle distance, and leave the background further away. This will add depth to your photo.
The image above was shot from the hip (literally) as the photographer crossed a street in New York City. The finished image was cropped and processed as follows.
True New York is a bustling hub of activity. And the perspective achieved with a wide-angle lens takes the viewer right into the thick of it. Do you feel the chaos through the photo?
One more example.
Beautiful sunrise, but it may seem like it's missing something
It's best to add a person into the frame, proximity to the camera adds depth
- There is no clear object in the image
This error is closely related to the first one. When everything is at an equal distance from the lens, . As soon as you zoom in to make an object appear larger in the frame, it will begin to stand out visually.
In these examples, the photographer started with 17mm and a very low angle. He wanted to emphasize the perspective through the converging lines of the railroad tracks.
The first image (above) fails to achieve this as there is no clear subject for the viewer to linger on. The focus was then on a nail that was sticking out of the board. It turned out better, but then it was discovered sticking out of the rotten boards yellow leaf. Backlit by the sun, it really stood out in the photo. The leaf became the focal point of the image not only because of its size in the frame, it is a bright warm color, not centered, and also looked at in a certain way.
What story do you want to tell in your photography?
Use all your senses to take in what is happening around you as you take photographs. How can you relate this to your image?
The image above was taken at Notre Dame Basilica in Montreal.
A wide-angle lens was used to focus more attention on the statues and pulpit and less on the main altar. The viewer's eye "goes" to them due to their size in the frame.
Finally, consider composition and lighting. If the subject is placed off-center, the photo will be more interesting. Make sure it is well lit and the background does not distract the viewer.
- Mistake #3 - Trying to fit too much into a frame
Street vendor in Havana, Cuba; 17mm lens (full frame)
Choose something interesting on the counter to focus on while the rest of it acts as background. It is necessary to select one object, and not the entire room, market or other place. Your message will be diluted if you try to fit as many things into the frame as possible.
Simplify - simplify - simplify. Often in photography, less is more. Say more with less in your images. Look how simple, yet graphic, the photos are below?
- Taking bad photos of people
Wide-angle lenses distort objects in the frame. Thus, the nose of the person in the photo will lengthen, the jaw will stick out, and the head will look simply huge!
17mm lens - not a very good photo of the model
This type of photography is generally not suitable for most people. If you want to photograph a person well, simply don't use a wide-angle lens. You need to understand what effect it will have in the photo and use it wisely.
35mm is a little better
70 mm is another matter. 85mm is a common focal length for portrait photographs. The face looks nice, less background is displayed, the viewer's attention is focused on the model's face
160mm - great for head shots
Experiment with all the lenses you have, think about it, if you were being photographed, what lens would you want to end up with? Take photos with him.
Use a wide-angle lens to photograph people who show their surroundings (think of the store owner in the example above), add fun or even a little humor, and tell a story. But know that this photo probably won't be flattering on the model.
If you intend to take a portrait that is flattering to the model, choose a lens slightly longer than usual in the short telephoto range (85-135 mm in full screen mode, 60-90 mm APS-C).
The wide-angle view shows the whole picture. This is a guide and shaman to Peru playing Machu Picchu. Background in in this case very important - it tells part of the story
Humor and wide angle shooting go well together
Children are very important object shoots that you can have a little fun with. Let the spirit of explorer awaken in them and they approach the wide-angle lens. This will add a sense of playfulness and fun to all your photos.
- Shooting with a wide-angle lens is good simply because it's good.
The final mistake is using a wide-angle lens just because "it's cool." Often, when people buy a new lens, they only use it for a while, where they need it and where they don’t need it.
Success with a wide lens
Choose your lens based on the effect you want in your photos.
Converging lines of a long corridor lead the viewer to the stage
Get closer, find a clearly defined and understandable subject, don't try to fit as many things into the frame as possible, photograph people correctly with a wide-angle lens, and make informed decisions about its use in general.
First, let's take a look at some of the surprises and shortcomings of this lens.
- If used correctly, this lens can make the viewer feel like they are in the middle of the scene.
- You, as a photographer, can get much closer to get fantastic pictures. If you can't get close enough, forget about wide angle.
- This lens tends to exaggerate things, including objects, phenomena, and emotions. People, faces, or terrain - they all seem to overwhelm the frame if it is framed and processed correctly.
- Composition really matters when it comes to this lens, minimal movement with the camera and positioning yourself within the scene can give sudden change in photography. Avoid grabbing your legs while shooting while framing.
- Shooting portraits with wide-angle lenses, of course, requires large quantity practice and certain skill. Believe me, even professionals sometimes find it difficult to get a decent portrait shot. It is necessary to take into account that a person may lose proportionality and take measures to prevent such a phenomenon. Remember this is not a portrait lens.
In this article, we'll discuss the pros of wide-angle photography, as well as some interesting shooting techniques and the negative aspects of wide-angle photography.
Distortion
Distortion in the lens causes a defect in the image. There is virtually no optics that does not cause some amount of distortion in the image. But when we're talking about Regarding wide-angle lenses, you should pay particular attention to this point. Typically, stretching occurs in the corners of a photograph, causing the object or subject to lose its true shape and appear deformed in the photograph. It is quite difficult to avoid this, but you can still use such a disadvantage to the advantage of the image. In addition, this issue can be easily resolved if we resort to better equipment. There are many methods available to correct distortions in frame processing.
Photo: Todd & Sarah Sisson
Framing
Clearly imagine what your object is inside, that is, what frames it. The ideal placement of the subject is the center of the frame. This way you can avoid huge amount distortions that are characteristic of the angles of the image. In addition, a clearer understanding of the nature of the image arises and an excellent wide-angle photograph is obtained.
Photo: Kevin McNeil
Photographer's position and composition of the frame
You can move a little or tilt the camera minimally and still get significant changes within the frame. This is a good opportunity to improve the look of the scene. To do this, keep experimenting and take more test shots to get great results. The ability to introspect and be patient will also come in handy.
Photo: Jared Ropilato
Stunning Examples of Wide Angle Photographs
Photo: Mac Danzig
Photo: Willie Huang
Photo: Joshua Cripps
Photo: Philip Eaglesfield
Photo: Chip Phillips
Photo: Michael Ryan
Photo: Brent Pearson
Photo: Jason Theaker
Photo: Jeffrey Schmid
Photo: Joserra Irusta
Photo: Joshua Cripps
Photo: Lars van de Goor
The world does not stand still, every day something new is created, incomprehensible, but necessary. Therefore, you have to learn to understand technical innovations.
When it comes to camera lenses, Canon has long made sure that there are no limits to studying and comparing their equipment.
Choosing a wide-angle lens for Canon is quite an expensive undertaking, but now we will sort out all the nuances so that you are happy with the purchase and do not regret the money spent.
For those who have a question about what a wide-angle lens is for, we answer that they allow you to capture a wide viewing angle and as a result they can produce very interesting photographs.
Wide-angle lenses are lenses whose focal length is less than the diagonal of the film frame or matrix (viewing angle from 52 to 82).
Lens overview
Prices are current for 2015
Let's take a look at some Canon wide-angle lenses.
Canon EF 16-35 mm F 2.8 L USM II (from 79,990 rubles)
The lens that replaced the sensational first version.
It is believed that he The best wide-angle lens for Canon in its class.
Dust- and waterproof allows you to shoot in any weather. Due to the unique geometry of the images, great depth sharpness at an open aperture and interesting background blur out of focus, has won the love of many photographers, including wedding ones. High aperture ratio The lens makes it possible to shoot in low light conditions, for example, a city at night without flash.
Stunning rendition of colors and shades. Clear, error-free aiming, fast autofocus, with the ability to switch to manual at any time during shooting. Pleasant tactile sensations due to a seriously elaborate design. It is lightweight (635 grams), so it is convenient to carry in a backpack.
The ultrasonic motor ensures silent shooting, which does not affect the high speed of autofocus. A special lens coating protects photos from glare and flare.
Canon EF 17-40 mm F 4 L USM (from 34,999 rubles)
An ultra-wide-angle lens that is not much inferior to the class leader. It does not lend itself to autofocus speed and accuracy; it has large range Zuma. Ultrasonic drive. Counts the best representative class in price/quality ratio. Optimal aperture (aperture 4.0). High picture sharpness.
Ultra-low glass dispersion reduces out-of-focus background sharpness, resulting in a more natural-looking image. Covers exactly the range needed for everyday shooting.
You will learn why lens distortion occurs when photographing with wide-angle lenses.
Search best schemes light or shooting technique, or just inspiration? Current selection of famous photo sites for photographers at:
Canon EF-S 17-55 mm F 2.8 IS USM (from 41,240 rubles)
Wide-angle EF-S series. Great option for everyday shooting. This model The lens, in terms of its characteristics and the quality of the resulting images, is almost equal to its professional relatives - “elks”.
Of the advantages, especially noteworthy is the presence of a stabilizer, which copes well with blur in fast shooting conditions. Again, due to the stabilizer, there are no problems when working indoors, even without flash. The pictures are contrasty and clear.
There is virtually no need for technical post-processing of photographs. Just like the representatives of the L series, the glass has a special coating that allows it to combat glare. Fast in terms of zoom speed.
Ultrasonic motor, ultra-fast autofocus, with the ability to switch to focus at any time manual mode. Its weight (645 grams) is considered by many photographers as an advantage because it shakes less in the hands.
Canon EF 35 mm F 2 (25,990 rubles)
Wide-angle fixed lens. Convenient compact design, light weight, only 210 grams. But at the same time the lens very durable, made with high quality. Great option for beginners and amateur photographers. Ease of use when shooting and the absence of unnecessary bells and whistles make this lens attractive in the eyes of those who are just learning how to take proper pictures. The model combines affordable price And good quality images.
Sufficient aperture allows you to take pictures indoors and outdoors, and the coverage angle is also pleasing. Among the models in its series it has the most fast speed autofocus The shortest focusing distance is 24 cm. Also, among the advantages is a built-in image stabilizer.
High sharpness of images, good contrast. Ideal for universal use, you can shoot from close distances, reportage shooting and more. Convenient to carry. This “baby” will fit anywhere.
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Canon EF 28 mm F 2.8 (from 34,290 rubles)
A classic wide-angle prime lens, the main advantages of which are its compactness and low price. Despite the cost, it is assembled of very high quality.
If you are a beginner or an amateur, then it is worth considering this option, due to the fact that the resulting images will be of excellent quality and at a reasonable price. The model is very light (185 grams) and small, so you can carry it with you absolutely everywhere, take it on trips and trips.
High resolution and expressiveness of images, deep contrast, sharpness, color and shade reproduction at the level. Despite its compactness, the lens provides the ability to take wide-angle photographs with large ranges of values.
A small number of elements makes it affordable for a wide range of people. The ultrasonic drive operates almost silently, although it is slightly inferior in this regard to a more expensive copy. But this can hardly be considered a drawback, given its reasonable price and quality.
Choose a lens that suits your skills and habits. As practice shows, what is an advantage for one photographer can be a disadvantage for another.
Consider your needs and capabilities so that the purchase brings you joy and you don’t have to regret the money spent. Although, the latter is unlikely. Good luck with your choice!
Canon EF-S 10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 IS STM (from 17,990 rubles) - an ideal camera option
The weight of the lens is light, which is what attracts many photographers. Don't worry about whether you need to take the lens with you, as they often take up a lot of space. Moreover, this camera has a common diameter size that fits almost all lenses.
The minimum focusing distance is 22 cm and is calculated from the matrix of our lens, this is what allows us to create very interesting shots. After all, we see the world from a different angle, and this is reflected in your creative process.
Canon EF-S 10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 IS STM (from 17,990 rubles) - an ideal option for your camera
If you are interested in photographing architectural buildings or have your own studio, then the Canon EF-S 10-18mm lens is exactly what you are looking for.
The weight of the lens is light, which is what attracts many photographers. Don't worry about whether you need to take the lens with you, as they often take up a lot of space. Moreover, it has a common diameter size that fits almost all lenses.
As for noise, the lens produces very quiet sounds, which can only be heard by holding your camera close to your ear. Also, the camera stabilizer helps you shoot smoothly, and you don't have to carry a tripod with you.
The minimum focusing distance is 22 cm and is calculated from the matrix of our lens, this is what allows you to create very interesting shots. After all, you see the world from a different angle, and this is reflected in your creative process.
As for the image quality, it is usually sharp and high. Sometimes there may be barrel distortion, which can be easily corrected in a photo editor. Despite its compact size, the lens has many advantages.
