Original LED RGB lamp designed for the widest range of applications. It will decorate a holiday, a home party, a children's room, a cafe, draw attention to a shop window, create a New Year's mood and much more! As they say, everything ingenious is simple, you just need to screw the light bulb into the socket for an ordinary light bulb and turn on the light. Thanks to the shape of the lamp and the rotation of the base with many lenses that refract the LED light, an extraordinary kaleidoscopic effect of the movement of many colored rays and highlights in the room is created! The lamp is easily screwed into a socket for an ordinary lamp, or plugged into a socket using an additional adapter!
Peculiarities:
Long service life, low power consumption
No UV rays, no mercury, safe for people and the environment
High impact resistance, does not break when dropped
Almost does not heat up during operation
Silent motor, automatic rotation
Socket adapter included
Universal application
Characteristics:
● Original name: Dancing RGB LED Full Color Rotating Lamp E27
● LED power: 3x1 W
● LED color: green, red, blue
● Service life - up to 20,000 hours of continuous operation
● 80% energy saving.
● Power: 85V - 260V
● Housing material: plastic, plexiglass, aluminum
● Size: 17x9cm
● Weight 100 g
● Certification: CE RoHS
Equipment:
RGB lamp E27
Adapter fork euro standard/cartridge E27
Packing/box
Due to low power consumption, theoretical durability and lower prices, incandescent and energy-saving lamps are rapidly replacing. But, despite the declared service life of up to 25 years, they often burn out without even having served the warranty period.
Unlike incandescent lamps, 90% of burned-out LED lamps can be successfully repaired with your own hands, even without special training. The presented examples will help you to repair failed LED lamps.
Before undertaking the repair of an LED lamp, you need to present its device. Regardless of the appearance and type of LEDs used, all LED lamps, including filament bulbs, are arranged in the same way. If you remove the walls of the lamp housing, then inside you can see the driver, which is a printed circuit board with radio elements installed on it.
Any LED lamp is arranged and works as follows. The supply voltage from the contacts of the electric cartridge is supplied to the terminals of the base. Two wires are soldered to it, through which voltage is applied to the input of the driver. From the driver, a DC supply voltage is supplied to the board on which the LEDs are soldered.
The driver is an electronic unit - a current generator that converts the mains voltage into the current required to light the LEDs.
Sometimes, to scatter light or protect against human contact with unprotected conductors of a board with LEDs, it is covered with a diffusing protective glass.
About filament lamps
In appearance, a filament lamp is similar to an incandescent lamp. The device of filament lamps differs from LED ones in that they do not use a board with LEDs as light emitters, but a glass sealed bulb filled with gas, in which one or more filament rods are placed. The driver is located in the base.
The filament rod is a glass or sapphire tube with a diameter of about 2 mm and a length of about 30 mm, on which 28 miniature LEDs coated in series with a phosphor are fixed and connected. One filament consumes about 1 W of power. My operating experience shows that filament lamps are much more reliable than those made on the basis of SMD LEDs. I think over time they will replace all other artificial light sources.
Examples of repair of LED lamps
Attention, the electrical circuits of the LED lamp drivers are galvanically connected to the phase of the electrical network and therefore care must be taken. Touching exposed parts of a circuit connected to an electrical outlet may result in electric shock.
LED Lamp Repair
ASD LED-A60, 11 W on SM2082 chip
Currently, powerful LED bulbs have appeared, the drivers of which are assembled on microcircuits of the SM2082 type. One of them worked less than a year and got me to repair. The light bulb flickered randomly and came on again. When tapped on it, it responded with light or extinction. It became obvious that the problem was a bad connection.
To get to the electronic part of the lamp, you need to use a knife to pick up the diffusing glass at the point of contact with the body. Sometimes it is difficult to separate the glass, since silicone is applied to the retaining ring when it is seated.
After removing the light-scattering glass, access to the LEDs and the microcircuit - the current generator SM2082 was opened. In this lamp, one part of the driver was mounted on an aluminum printed circuit board of LEDs, and the second on a separate one.
External inspection did not reveal defective rations or broken tracks. I had to remove the board with LEDs. To do this, the silicone was first cut off and the board was pushed over the edge with a screwdriver blade.
To get to the driver located in the lamp housing, I had to unsolder it, heating two contacts at the same time with a soldering iron and moving it to the right.
On one side of the driver PCB, only an electrolytic capacitor with a capacity of 6.8 microfarads for a voltage of 400 V was installed.
On the reverse side of the driver board, a diode bridge and two series-connected resistors with a nominal value of 510 kOhm were installed.
In order to figure out which of the boards was losing contact, they had to be connected, observing the polarity, using two wires. After tapping the boards with a screwdriver handle, it became obvious that the fault lies in the board with the capacitor or in the contacts of the wires coming from the LED lamp base.
Since soldering did not arouse suspicion, I first checked the reliability of the contact in the central terminal of the base. It is easily removed by prying it over the edge with a knife blade. But the contact was reliable. Just in case, I tinned the wire with solder.
It is difficult to remove the screw part of the base, so I decided to solder the solder wires suitable from the base with a soldering iron. When touching one of the rations, the wire was exposed. Found "cold" soldering. Since there was no way to get to strip the wire, I had to lubricate it with the FIM active flux, and then solder it again.
After assembly, the LED lamp emitted light steadily, despite being hit with a screwdriver handle. Checking the luminous flux for pulsations showed that they are significant at a frequency of 100 Hz. Such a LED lamp can only be installed in luminaires for general lighting.
Driver circuit diagram
LED lamp ASD LED-A60 on the chip SM2082
The electrical circuit of the ASD LED-A60 lamp, thanks to the use of a specialized SM2082 microcircuit in the driver to stabilize the current, turned out to be quite simple.
The driver circuit works as follows. The AC supply voltage is fed through fuse F to the rectifier diode bridge assembled on the MB6S microassembly. The electrolytic capacitor C1 smooths out the ripple, and R1 serves to discharge it when the power is turned off.
From the positive terminal of the capacitor, the supply voltage is applied directly to the LEDs connected in series. From the output of the last LED, the voltage is applied to the input (pin 1) of the SM2082 microcircuit, the current in the microcircuit stabilizes and then from its output (pin 2) it goes to the negative terminal of the capacitor C1.
Resistor R2 sets the amount of current flowing through the LEDs HL. The amount of current is inversely proportional to its nominal value. If the value of the resistor is reduced, then the current will increase, if the value is increased, then the current will decrease. The SM2082 chip allows you to adjust the current value from 5 to 60 mA with a resistor.
LED Lamp Repair
ASD LED-A60, 11W, 220V, E27
Another LED lamp ASD LED-A60, similar in appearance and with the same technical characteristics as the repaired one, got into repair.
When turned on, the lamp lit up for a moment and then did not shine. This behavior of LED lamps is usually associated with a driver malfunction. Therefore, I immediately began to disassemble the lamp.
The diffusing glass was removed with great difficulty, since it was heavily lubricated with silicone along the entire line of contact with the case, despite the presence of a retainer. To separate the glass, I had to look for a pliable place along the entire line of contact with the body with a knife, but still there was a crack in the body.
To gain access to the lamp driver, the next step was to remove the LED printed circuit board, which was pressed into the aluminum insert along the contour. Despite the fact that the board was aluminum, and it was possible to remove it without fear of cracking, all attempts were unsuccessful. The pay was held tight.
It also failed to remove the board together with the aluminum insert, since it fit snugly against the case and was planted on silicone by the outer surface.
I decided to try to remove the driver board from the side of the base. To do this, first, a knife was pulled out of the base, and the central contact was removed. To remove the threaded part of the base, it was necessary to slightly bend its upper shoulder so that the punching points disengaged from the base.
The driver became accessible and freely extended to a certain position, but it was not possible to completely remove it, although the conductors from the LED board were soldered.
There was a hole in the center of the board with the LEDs. I decided to try to remove the driver board by hitting its end through a metal rod threaded through this hole. The board advanced a few centimeters and rested against something. After further blows, the lamp body cracked along the ring and the board with the base of the base separated.
As it turned out, the board had an extension, which rested against the lamp body with its hangers. It looks like the board was shaped in such a way to restrict movement, although it was enough to fix it with a drop of silicone. Then the driver would be removed from either side of the lamp.
The voltage of 220 V from the lamp base through the resistor - fuse FU is fed to the MB6F rectifier bridge and after it is smoothed by an electrolytic capacitor. Next, the voltage is supplied to the SIC9553 chip, which stabilizes the current. Resistors R20 and R80 connected in parallel between terminals 1 and 8 MS set the amount of current to supply the LEDs.
The photo shows a typical electrical circuit diagram given by the manufacturer of the SIC9553 chip in the Chinese datasheet.
This photo shows the appearance of the LED lamp driver from the installation side of the output elements. Since space allowed, to reduce the ripple coefficient of the light flux, the capacitor at the output of the driver was soldered to 6.8 microfarads instead of 4.7 microfarads.
If you have to remove the drivers from the body of this lamp model and you cannot remove the LED board, then you can use a jigsaw to cut the lamp body in a circle just above the screw part of the base.
In the end, all my efforts to extract the driver turned out to be useful only for knowing the device of the LED lamp. The driver was correct.
The flash of the LEDs at the moment of switching on was caused by a breakdown in the crystal of one of them as a result of a voltage surge when the driver was started, which misled me. We had to ring the LEDs first.
An attempt to test the LEDs with a multimeter did not lead to success. The LEDs didn't light up. It turned out that two series-connected light-emitting crystals are installed in one housing, and in order for the LED to start flowing current, it is necessary to apply a voltage of 8 V to it.
A multimeter or tester, switched on to the resistance measurement mode, outputs a voltage in the range of 3-4 V. I had to check the LEDs using the power supply, supplying 12 V to each LED through a 1 kΩ current-limiting resistor.
There was no replacement LED available, so the pads were closed with a drop of solder instead. It is safe for the driver to work, and the power of the LED lamp will decrease by only 0.7 W, which is almost imperceptible.
After the repair of the electrical part of the LED lamp, the cracked body was glued with fast-drying Moment super glue, the seams were smoothed by melting the plastic with a soldering iron and smoothed out with sandpaper.
For interest, I performed some measurements and calculations. The current flowing through the LEDs was 58 mA, the voltage was 8 V. Therefore, the power supplied to one LED is 0.46 W. With 16 LEDs, it turns out 7.36 watts, instead of the declared 11 watts. Perhaps the manufacturer indicates the total power consumption of the lamp, taking into account losses in the driver.
The service life of the LED lamp ASD LED-A60, 11 W, 220 V, E27, declared by the manufacturer, is very doubtful to me. In a small volume of a plastic lamp housing with low thermal conductivity, significant power is released - 11 watts. As a result, the LEDs and the driver operate at the maximum allowable temperature, which leads to accelerated degradation of their crystals and, as a result, to a sharp decrease in their MTBF.
LED Lamp Repair
LED smd B35 827 ERA, 7 W on BP2831A chip
A friend shared with me that he bought five light bulbs as in the photo below, and all of them stopped working after a month. He managed to throw away three of them, and, at my request, he brought two for repair.
The light bulb worked, but instead of a bright light, it emitted a flickering weak light at a frequency of several times per second. I immediately assumed that the electrolytic capacitor was swollen, usually if it fails, the lamp begins to emit light, like a stroboscope.
The light-scattering glass was removed easily, it was not glued. It was fixed by a slot on its rim and a protrusion in the lamp body.
The driver was fixed with two solders to a printed circuit board with LEDs, as in one of the lamps described above.
A typical driver circuit on a BP2831A chip taken from the datasheet is shown in the photo. The driver board was removed and all simple radio elements were checked, everything turned out to be in good order. I had to check the LEDs.
The LEDs in the lamp were installed of an unknown type with two crystals in the case and the inspection did not reveal any defects. Using the method of serially connecting the leads of each of the LEDs to each other, he quickly identified the faulty one and replaced it with a drop of solder, as in the photo.
The lamp worked for a week and again got into repair. Shorted the next LED. A week later, I had to short-circuit another LED, and after the fourth I threw out the bulb, because I was tired of repairing it.
The reason for the failure of light bulbs of this design is obvious. LEDs overheat due to insufficient heat sink surface, and their life is reduced to hundreds of hours.
Why is it permissible to close the terminals of burned-out LEDs in LED lamps
The LED lamp driver, unlike the constant voltage power supply, outputs a stabilized current value, not voltage. Therefore, regardless of the load resistance within the given limits, the current will always be constant and, therefore, the voltage drop across each of the LEDs will remain the same.
Therefore, with a decrease in the number of series-connected LEDs in the circuit, the voltage at the output of the driver will also decrease proportionally.
For example, if 50 LEDs are connected in series to the driver, and a voltage of 3 V drops across each of them, then the voltage at the output of the driver was 150 V, and if 5 of them were shorted, the voltage would drop to 135 V, and the current would not change.
But the coefficient of performance (COP) of a driver assembled according to such a scheme will be low and power losses will be more than 50%. For example, for an MR-16-2835-F27 LED bulb, you will need a 6.1 kΩ resistor with a power of 4 watts. It turns out that the driver on the resistor will consume power that exceeds the power consumption of the LEDs and it will be unacceptable to place it in a small LED lamp housing, due to the release of more heat.
But if there is no other way to repair the LED lamp and it is very necessary, then the driver on the resistor can be placed in a separate case, all the same, the power consumption of such an LED lamp will be four times less than incandescent lamps. At the same time, it should be noted that the more LEDs connected in series in the light bulb, the higher the efficiency will be. With 80 serially connected SMD3528 LEDs, you will need an 800 ohm resistor with a power of only 0.5 watts. Capacitor C1 will need to be increased to 4.7 µF.
Finding faulty LEDs
After removing the protective glass, it becomes possible to check the LEDs without peeling off the printed circuit board. First of all, a careful inspection of each LED is carried out. If even the smallest black dot is detected, not to mention the blackening of the entire surface of the LED, then it is definitely faulty.
When examining the appearance of the LEDs, you need to carefully examine the quality of the rations of their conclusions. In one of the light bulbs being repaired, four LEDs were poorly soldered at once.
The photo shows a light bulb that had very small black dots on four LEDs. I immediately marked the faulty LEDs with crosses so that they could be clearly seen.
Faulty LEDs may or may not change appearance. Therefore, it is necessary to check each LED with a multimeter or arrow tester included in the resistance measurement mode.
There are LED lamps in which standard LEDs are installed in appearance, in the case of which two crystals connected in series are mounted at once. For example, lamps of the ASD LED-A60 series. To make such LEDs ring, it is necessary to apply a voltage of more than 6 V to its outputs, and any multimeter gives out no more than 4 V. Therefore, such LEDs can only be checked by applying a voltage of more than 6 (9-12) V through a 1 kΩ resistor from the power source. .
The LED is checked, like a conventional diode, in one direction the resistance should be equal to tens of megaohms, and if you swap the probes (this changes the polarity of the voltage supply to the LED), then it is small, while the LED may glow dimly.
When checking and replacing LEDs, the lamp must be fixed. To do this, you can use a suitable size round jar.
You can check the health of the LED without an additional DC source. But such a verification method is possible if the light bulb driver is working. To do this, it is necessary to apply a supply voltage to the LED lamp base and short the leads of each LED in series with each other with a wire jumper or, for example, metal tweezers sponges.
If suddenly all the LEDs light up, then the shorted one is definitely faulty. This method is useful if only one LED out of all in the circuit is faulty. With this method of verification, it must be taken into account that if the driver does not provide galvanic isolation from the mains, as, for example, in the diagrams above, then touching the LED solderings with your hand is unsafe.
If one or even several LEDs turned out to be faulty and there is nothing to replace them with, then you can simply short-circuit the pads to which the LEDs were soldered. The light bulb will work with the same success, only the luminous flux will decrease slightly.
Other malfunctions of LED lamps
If the check of the LEDs showed their serviceability, then it means that the reason for the inoperability of the light bulb lies in the driver or in the places where the current-carrying conductors are soldered.
For example, in this light bulb, a cold soldered conductor was found that supplies voltage to the printed circuit board. The soot released due to poor soldering even settled on the conductive tracks of the printed circuit board. The soot was easily removed by wiping with a rag soaked in alcohol. The wire was soldered, stripped, tinned and re-soldered into the board. Good luck with this lamp.
Of the ten failed light bulbs, only one had a faulty driver, the diode bridge fell apart. The repair of the driver consisted in replacing the diode bridge with four IN4007 diodes, designed for a reverse voltage of 1000 V and a current of 1 A.
Soldering SMD LEDs
To replace a faulty LED, it must be desoldered without damaging the printed conductors. From the donor board, you also need to solder the replacement LED without damage.
It is almost impossible to solder SMD LEDs with a simple soldering iron without damaging their case. But if you use a special tip for a soldering iron or put on a standard tip a nozzle made of copper wire, then the problem is easily solved.
The LEDs have polarity and when replacing, you need to correctly install it on the printed circuit board. Typically, printed conductors follow the shape of the leads on the LED. Therefore, you can make a mistake only if you are inattentive. To solder the LED, it is enough to install it on a printed circuit board and heat its ends with contact pads with a soldering iron with a power of 10-15 W.
If the LED burned out on coal, and the printed circuit board under it was charred, then before installing a new LED, it is imperative to clean this place of the printed circuit board from burning, since it is a current conductor. When cleaning, you may find that the pads for soldering the LED are burned or peeled off.
In such a case, the LED can be installed by soldering it to adjacent LEDs if the printed tracks lead to them. To do this, you can take a piece of thin wire, bend it in half or three, depending on the distance between the LEDs, tin and solder to them.
Repair LED lamp series "LL-CORN" (corn lamp)
E27 4.6W 36x5050SMD
The device of the lamp, which is popularly called the corn lamp, shown in the photo below, differs from the lamp described above, therefore the repair technology is different.
The design of LED SMD lamps of this type is very convenient for repair, as there is access for LED continuity and replacement without disassembling the lamp housing. True, I still dismantled the light bulb for interest in order to study its device.
Checking the LEDs of the LED corn lamp does not differ from the technology described above, but it should be noted that three LEDs are placed in the SMD5050 LED housing at once, usually connected in parallel (three dark dots of crystals are visible on the yellow circle), and when checking, all three should glow.
A defective LED can be replaced with a new one or shorted with a jumper. This will not affect the reliability of the lamp, only imperceptibly to the eye, the luminous flux will decrease slightly.
The driver of this lamp is assembled according to the simplest scheme, without an isolation transformer, so touching the LED terminals when the lamp is on is unacceptable. Lamps of this design are unacceptable to be installed in fixtures that can be reached by children.
If all the LEDs are working, then the driver is faulty, and in order to get to it, the lamp will have to be disassembled.
To do this, remove the bezel from the side opposite the base. With a small screwdriver or a knife blade, you need to try in a circle to find a weak spot where the bezel is glued the worst. If the rim succumbed, then working with the tool as a lever, the rim will easily move away around the entire perimeter.
The driver was assembled according to the electrical circuit, like the MR-16 lamp, only C1 had a capacity of 1 µF, and C2 - 4.7 µF. Due to the fact that the wires from the driver to the lamp base were long, the driver was easily pulled out of the lamp housing. After studying his circuit, the driver was inserted back into the case, and the bezel was glued into place with transparent Moment glue. The failed LED was replaced with a good one.
Repair of LED lamp "LL-CORN" (corn lamp)
E27 12W 80x5050SMD
When repairing a more powerful lamp, 12 W, there were no failed LEDs of the same design, and in order to get to the drivers, I had to open the lamp using the technology described above.
This lamp gave me a surprise. The wires from the driver to the base were short, and it was impossible to remove the driver from the lamp housing for repair. I had to remove the plinth.
The base of the lamp was made of aluminium, rounded and held tight. I had to drill out the attachment points with a 1.5 mm drill. After that, the plinth, which was hooked with a knife, was easily removed.
But you can do without drilling the base, if you pry the edge of the knife around the circumference and slightly bend its upper edge. A mark should first be placed on the plinth and body so that the plinth can be easily installed in place. To securely fix the base after repairing the lamp, it will be enough to put it on the lamp body so that the punched points on the base fall into their old places. Next, push these points with a sharp object.
Two wires were connected to the thread with a clamp, and the other two were pressed into the central contact of the base. I had to cut these wires.
As expected, there were two identical drivers, feeding 43 diodes each. They were covered with heat shrink tubing and taped together. In order for the driver to be placed back into the tube, I usually carefully cut it along the printed circuit board from the side where the parts are installed.
After repair, the driver is wrapped in a tube, which is fixed with a plastic tie or wrapped with several turns of thread.
In the electrical circuit of the driver of this lamp, protection elements are already installed, C1 for protection against impulse surges and R2, R3 for protection against current surges. When checking the elements, resistors R2 were immediately found on both drivers in the open. It appears that the LED lamp was supplied with a voltage exceeding the allowable voltage. After replacing the resistors, there was no 10 Ohm at hand, and I set it to 5.1 Ohm, the lamp worked.
Repair LED lamp series "LLB" LR-EW5N-5
The appearance of this type of light bulb inspires confidence. Aluminum case, high-quality workmanship, beautiful design.
The design of the light bulb is such that it is impossible to disassemble it without the use of significant physical effort. Since the repair of any LED lamp begins with checking the health of the LEDs, the first thing that had to be done was to remove the plastic protective glass.
The glass was fixed without glue on a groove made in the radiator with a shoulder inside it. To remove the glass, you need to use the end of a screwdriver, which will pass between the fins of the radiator, to lean on the end of the radiator and, as a lever, lift the glass up.
Checking the LEDs with a tester showed their serviceability, therefore, the driver is faulty, and you need to get to it. The aluminum board was fastened with four screws, which I unscrewed.
But contrary to expectations, behind the board was the plane of the radiator, lubricated with heat-conducting paste. The board had to be returned to its place and continue to disassemble the lamp from the side of the base.
Due to the fact that the plastic part to which the radiator was attached was very tight, I decided to go the proven way, remove the base and remove the driver for repair through the opened hole. I drilled out the punching points, but the base was not removed. It turned out that he was still holding on to the plastic due to the threaded connection.
I had to separate the plastic adapter from the radiator. He held, as well as protective glass. To do this, washed down with a hacksaw at the junction of plastic with a radiator and by turning a screwdriver with a wide blade, the parts were separated from each other.
After soldering the leads from the printed circuit board of the LEDs, the driver became available for repair. The driver circuit turned out to be more complex than previous light bulbs, with an isolation transformer and a microcircuit. One of the 400 V 4.7 µF electrolytic capacitors was swollen. I had to replace it.
A check of all semiconductor elements revealed a faulty Schottky diode D4 (pictured below left). There was a SS110 Schottky diode on the board, I replaced it with the existing analog 10 BQ100 (100 V, 1 A). The forward resistance of Schottky diodes is two times less than that of ordinary diodes. The LED lamp lit up. The same problem was with the second bulb.
Repair LED lamp series "LLB" LR-EW5N-3
This LED lamp is very similar in appearance to the "LLB" LR-EW5N-5, but its design is somewhat different.
If you look closely, you can see that at the junction between the aluminum radiator and the spherical glass, unlike LR-EW5N-5, there is a ring in which the glass is fixed. To remove the protective glass, just use a small screwdriver to pick it up at the junction with the ring.
Three nine crystal superbright LEDs are installed on the aluminum circuit board. The board is screwed to the heatsink with three screws. Checking the LEDs showed their serviceability. Therefore, you need to repair the driver. Having experience in repairing a similar LED lamp "LLB" LR-EW5N-5, I did not unscrew the screws, but soldered the current-carrying wires coming from the driver and continued to disassemble the lamp from the side of the base.
The plastic connecting ring of the plinth with the radiator was removed with great difficulty. At the same time, part of it broke off. As it turned out, it was screwed to the radiator with three self-tapping screws. The driver is easily removed from the lamp housing.
The self-tapping screws that screw the plastic ring of the base cover the driver, and it is difficult to see them, but they are on the same axis as the thread to which the adapter part of the radiator is screwed. Therefore, a thin Phillips screwdriver can be reached.
The driver turned out to be assembled according to the transformer circuit. Checking all the elements, except for the microcircuit, did not reveal any failed ones. Therefore, the microcircuit is faulty, I did not even find a mention of its type on the Internet. The LED bulb could not be repaired, it will come in handy for spare parts. But studied her device.
Repair LED lamp series "LL" GU10-3W
It turned out, at first glance, that it was impossible to disassemble a burned-out GU10-3W LED bulb with a protective glass. An attempt to remove the glass led to its puncture. With the application of great effort, the glass cracked.
By the way, in the marking of the lamp, the letter G means that the lamp has a pin base, the letter U means that the lamp belongs to the class of energy-saving light bulbs, and the number 10 means the distance between the pins in millimeters.
LED bulbs with a GU10 base have special pins and are installed in a socket with a turn. Thanks to the expanding pins, the LED lamp is clamped in the socket and is held securely even when shaking.
In order to disassemble this LED light bulb, I had to drill a hole with a diameter of 2.5 mm in its aluminum case at the level of the surface of the printed circuit board. The drilling location must be chosen in such a way that the drill does not damage the LED when exiting. If there is no drill at hand, then the hole can be made with a thick awl.
Next, a small screwdriver is threaded into the hole and, acting like a lever, the glass is lifted. I removed the glass from two light bulbs without problems. If the test of the LEDs by the tester showed their serviceability, then the printed circuit board is removed.
After separating the board from the lamp housing, it immediately became obvious that the current-limiting resistors burned out in both one and the other lamp. The calculator determined their denomination from the bands, 160 ohms. Since the resistors burned out in LED bulbs of different batches, it is obvious that their power, judging by the size of 0.25 W, does not correspond to the power released when the driver is operating at maximum ambient temperature.
The printed circuit board of the driver was solidly filled with silicone, and I did not disconnect it from the board with LEDs. I cut off the leads of the burnt resistors at the base and soldered more powerful resistors to them, which were at hand. In one lamp, a 150 Ohm resistor with a power of 1 W was soldered, in the second two in parallel 320 Ohm with a power of 0.5 W.
In order to prevent accidental contact with the output of the resistor, to which the mains voltage is suitable with the metal body of the lamp, it was insulated with a drop of hot melt adhesive. It is waterproof and an excellent insulator. I often use it for sealing, insulating and securing electrical wires and other parts.
Hotmelt adhesive is available in the form of rods with a diameter of 7, 12, 15 and 24 mm in different colors, from transparent to black. It melts, depending on the brand, at a temperature of 80-150 °, which allows it to be melted with an electric soldering iron. It is enough to cut off a piece of the rod, place it in the right place and heat it up. The hot melt will take on the consistency of May honey. After cooling it becomes solid again. When reheated, it becomes liquid again.
After replacing the resistors, the performance of both bulbs was restored. It remains only to fix the printed circuit board and the protective glass in the lamp housing.
When repairing LED lamps, I used liquid nails "Installation" moment to fix printed circuit boards and plastic parts. The glue is odorless, adheres well to the surfaces of any materials, remains plastic after drying, has sufficient heat resistance.
It is enough to take a small amount of glue on the end of a screwdriver and apply it to the places where the parts come into contact. After 15 minutes, the glue will already hold.
When gluing the printed circuit board, in order not to wait, holding the board in place, as the wires pushed it out, fixed the board additionally at several points with hot glue.
The LED lamp began to flash like a strobe
I had to repair a pair of LED lamps with drivers assembled on a microcircuit, the malfunction of which consisted in flashing light at a frequency of about one hertz, like in a strobe.
One instance of the LED lamp began to flash immediately after being turned on for the first few seconds and then the lamp began to glow normally. Over time, the duration of the lamp flashing after switching on began to increase, and the lamp began to flash continuously. The second copy of the LED lamp began to flash continuously all of a sudden.
After disassembling the lamps, it turned out that the electrolytic capacitors installed immediately after the rectifier bridges failed in the drivers. It was easy to determine the malfunction, since the capacitor cases were swollen. But even if in appearance the capacitor looks without external defects, it is still necessary to start repairing a LED light bulb with a stroboscopic effect by replacing it.
After replacing the electrolytic capacitors with serviceable ones, the stroboscopic effect disappeared and the lamps began to shine normally.
Online calculators for determining the value of resistors
by color coding
When repairing LED lamps, it becomes necessary to determine the value of the resistor. According to the standard, the marking of modern resistors is carried out by applying colored rings to their cases. 4 colored rings are applied to simple resistors, and 5 to high-precision resistors.
As I wrote earlier - I love all sorts of luminous things) And after I read the review on this lamp, I decided to order one for myself. I plan to use it at home parties. But when I received it, I was a bit disappointed...
But more on that later…
For those who are not yet familiar with the principle of operation of the lamp, I will describe it: inside there is a circuit with three LEDs: red, green and blue. They burn constantly, and the upper part of the lamp rotates with the help of a motor and has a crystalline surface, which refracts light at different angles when moving. The effect of movement is created, it looks very much like disco color music. This is what it looks like at work:
Here is her box: 
It's well made, the plastic is thick. At the first installation, it slipped out of my hands and fell from a 2-meter height onto the tile. I stood in a chair in horror and thought that it was a shame that I had not even checked it. But when I picked it up, I did not find any scratches on it, and when I connected it, it worked as if nothing had happened.
During operation, a slight buzzing of the motor is heard, which becomes inaudible at a distance of a couple of meters, or is drowned out by quiet music.
Additional information: "illumination angle" - 120 degrees. Power consumption - 3W, 1W for each LED.
I wanted to take it apart - it didn’t work out, but I took a picture of the circuit through the glass. It is not very visible, but still gives an idea of the operation of the lamp. 
More photos 
Now for the disappointment. When ordering a lamp, I did not pay attention to the dimensions stated on the website. But in vain)) It turned out to be just huge, so I had to shoot a video of an example of work in the toilet))) It didn’t fit into any lamp in the apartment)) Here you can see how much larger it is than an ordinary light bulb: 
She is huge. Not what I expected to see upon receipt)) When I received the package in the mail, I thought for a long time what they sent me - I didn’t even think about the light bulb. 
In addition, the “baby” also weighs impressively and may not fit some lamps by weight: 
In general, now you need to buy some kind of table lamp or build the simplest one yourself from a cartridge and improvised materials. Despite the surprise in the form of a lamp size, I am satisfied with the purchase.
P.S The lamp does not have a sound indication, that is, it is constantly on - it does not blink to the music.
I plan to buy +28 Add to favourites Liked the review +22 +45Today in our review there will be a rather unusual product - a rotating disco lamp Rotating Lamp. I first came across this product a year ago, but I didn’t even save the link, this offer was so irrelevant for me then.
When my wife decided to turn the celebration of her own birthday into a disco party in the country, I was responsible for creating the entourage. If basically everything was done without additional costs, then the disco lighting clearly had to be bought. After rummaging around on the net, I was somewhat discouraged by the cost of the equipment. Fortunately, I remembered the Full Color Rotating Lamp, and immediately placed an order.
Our Review of Full Color Rotating Lamp
Characteristics
There is nothing special to tell about placing an order, everything was without surprises, at an acceptable level for Russia. True, they delivered with a delay of a day, which was not critical, but still not very pleasant. About the rear 
Rzhke was warned in advance, which, in principle, removed all claims on my part.
The LED Full Color Rotating Lamp is an extremely compact device that can transform any room. The packaging made a favorable impression, thick cardboard, good printing. The instruction is true in English, but all the basic information is duplicated in the form of pictograms, so it's easy to figure it out.
Main features of my Rotating Lamp: 
- size - slightly smaller than the palm of an adult male, 16 - 18 centimeters;
- the colors used in the LEDs are emerald green, Prussian blue, Falun red;
- the bulb with the lamp is mounted on a reliable steel pin that provides rotation;
- the diameter of the flask - centimeters 8 - 9;
- cartridge - standard E27;
- warranty service life - 8000 hours;
- mains power.
I liked the scheme of the Full Color Rotating Lamp. No need to worry about the installation, just screw it into the cartridge, the lamp itself starts to shine and spins, creating the atmosphere of disco parties in Miami of the late 70s.
Principle of operation
The rotating colorful lamp is easy to install and use. In my case, I first checked at home how it would look and made sure that my wife would approve of such a purchase and the atmosphere it creates.
Experiment decided to do in the kitchen. Observing safety precautions, I unscrewed an ordinary LED lamp and inserted a rotating LED lamp into the cartridge. Turned it on, and my wife and I were transported to the dance floor! Flashes, spins, shines - a real disco ball, only more compact and cheaper than 10 times. 
The effect itself is very natural. The design of the flask includes lenses that refract light and create the same disco effect. The rotation itself occurs quite smoothly and silently, although it looks somewhat unusual at first.
Usage rule
Full Color Rotating Lamp comes ready to use. All you need to do is follow a few simple procedures and enjoy the effect: 
- after making sure that the cartridge is not energized and mindful of the danger of electric shock, we take out an ordinary lamp from the cartridge;
- we screw in the LED Full Color Rotating Lamp instead, trying not to twist the lamp itself in the cartridge;
- turn on the light switch, and get on the dance floor!
Everything is extremely simple and works like clockwork. The use of LED lamps reduces energy consumption. Can work for a long time. At my holiday, a rotating lamp shone for an hour and a half in a row - and nothing, it works as it worked.
Advantages
Based on the results of several intended uses, I can reasonably say that we are more than satisfied with the purchase of a rotating LED lamp. Its use on the dance floor made it possible to turn the cottage courtyard into a full-fledged disco venue with an excellent atmosphere.
What is important, not only adults were delighted, but also our little guests, on whom the spectacular use of a rotating multi-colored lamp made an unusually vivid impression. 
Summing up, my wife and I identified the following points for ourselves, why we would recommend buying such a lamp to other people. So, if you love the holiday atmosphere, buy the FNA-027 disco lamp and enjoy the following benefits:
- low cost in comparison with analogues, not to mention full-fledged disco balls and professional equipment for dance floors;
- ease of installation. Suitable for any cartridge of the corresponding type;
- low energy consumption achieved by using LED light source technology;
- full-fledged disco light, achieved by the constant rotation of the lamp and the refraction of light fluxes;
- can work for a long time without overheating or other troubles, heats up a little;
- great resource use. I doubt we're using all the 8,000 hours guaranteed by the manufacturer;
- simple and durable design of the lamp, ensures that the holiday will not be spoiled at the most inopportune moment.
With a variety on the shelves of the country, they remain out of competition due to efficiency and durability. However, a quality product is not always purchased, because in the store you cannot disassemble the goods for inspection. And in this case, it is not a fact that everyone will determine from what parts it is assembled. burn out, and it becomes expensive to buy new ones. The solution is to repair LED lamps with your own hands. This work is within the power of even a novice home master, and the details are inexpensive. Today we will figure out how to check in which cases the product is being repaired and how to do it.
It is known that LEDs cannot work directly from a 220 V network. To do this, they need additional equipment, which, most often, fails. We'll talk about him today. Consider the scheme, without which the operation of the lighting device is impossible. Along the way, we will conduct an educational program for those who do not understand anything in radio electronics.
driver gauss 12w
The 220V LED lamp driver circuit consists of:
- diode bridge;
- resistance;
- resistors.
The diode bridge serves to rectify the current (turns it from AC to DC). On the graph, this looks like cutting off a half-wave of a sinusoid. Resistances limit the current, and capacitors store energy by increasing the frequency. Consider the principle of operation on the diagram of a 220 V LED lamp.
The principle of operation of the driver in the LED lamp
| Diagram view | Operating procedure |
 | The 220V voltage is applied to the driver and passes through a smoothing capacitor and current limiting resistor. This is necessary in order to secure the diode bridge. |
 | Voltage is applied to a diode bridge, consisting of four multidirectional diodes that cut off the half-wave of the sinusoid. The output current is constant. |
 | Now, by means of a resistance and a capacitor, the current is again limited and the desired frequency is set to it. |
 | Voltage with the necessary parameters is supplied to equidirectional light diodes, which also serve as a current limiter. Those. when one of them burns out, the voltage rises, which leads to the failure of the capacitor if it is not powerful enough. This happens in Chinese products. High-quality devices are protected from this. |
Having understood the principle of operation and the driver circuit, the decision on how to fix a 220V LED lamp will no longer seem difficult. If we talk about quality, then you should not expect trouble from them. They work all the prescribed time and do not fade, although there are “diseases” to which they are also subject. Let's talk about how to deal with them.
Causes of failure of LED lighting devices
To make it easier to understand the reasons, we summarize all the data in one common table.
| Cause of failure | Description | Solution to the problem |
| Voltage drops | Such lamps are less prone to breakdowns due to voltage drops, however, sensitive surges can “break through” the diode bridge. As a result, the LED elements burn out. | If the jumps are sensitive, you need to install, which will significantly extend the life of the lighting equipment, but also other household appliances. |
| Wrong lamp selected | Lack of proper ventilation affects the driver. The heat generated by them is not removed. As a result, overheating occurs. | Choose with good ventilation, which will provide the desired heat transfer. |
| Mounting errors | Incorrectly selected lighting system, its connection. Incorrectly calculated cross-section of electrical wiring. | Here, the solution is to unload the lighting line or replace lighting fixtures with devices that consume less power. |
| External factor | Increased humidity, vibration, shock or dust due to incorrect selection of IP. | Proper selection or elimination of negative factors. |
Good to know! Repair of LED lamps cannot be done indefinitely. It is much easier to eliminate negative factors affecting durability and not to buy cheap products. Savings today will cost tomorrow. As economist Adam Smith said, "I'm not rich enough to buy cheap things."
Do-it-yourself repair of a 220 V LED lamp: the nuances of work
Before you repair the LED lamp with your own hands, pay attention to some details that require less labor. Checking the cartridge and the voltage in it is the first thing to do.
Important! Repair of LED lamps requires a multimeter - without it, it will not be possible to ring out the driver elements. You will also need a soldering station.
household multimeters
A soldering station is needed to repair LED chandeliers and fixtures. After all, overheating of their elements leads to failure. The heating temperature during soldering should be no higher than 2600, while the soldering iron heats up more. But there is a way out. We use a piece of copper core with a cross section of 4 mm, which is wound around the soldering iron tip with a dense spiral. The more you lengthen the sting, the lower its temperature. It is convenient if the multimeter has a thermometer function. In this case, it can be adjusted more precisely.
Soldering Station
But before you repair LED spotlights, chandeliers or lamps, you need to determine the cause of the failure.
How to disassemble an LED light bulb
One of the problems that a novice home master faces is how to disassemble an LED light bulb. To do this, you will need an awl, a solvent and a syringe with a needle. The diffuser of the LED lamp is glued to the body with a sealant that needs to be removed. Sweeping gently along the edge of the diffuser with an awl, we inject the solvent with a syringe. After 2÷3 minutes, twisting lightly, the diffuser is removed.
Some lighting fixtures are made without gluing with sealant. In this case, it is enough to turn the diffuser and remove it from the housing.
We identify the cause of the failure of the LED light bulb
After disassembling the lighting fixture, pay attention to the LED elements. Often burned is determined visually: it has tan marks or black dots. Then we change the faulty part and check the performance. We will tell you in detail about the replacement in the step-by-step instructions.
If the LED elements are in order, go to the driver. To check the performance of its parts, you need to unsolder them from the printed circuit board. The value of the resistors (resistances) is indicated on the board, and the parameters of the capacitor are indicated on the case. When dialing with a multimeter in the corresponding modes, there should be no deviations. However, often failed capacitors are determined visually - they swell or burst. The solution is to replace it with a suitable one according to technical parameters.
Replacing capacitors and resistances, unlike LEDs, is often done with a conventional soldering iron. In this case, care should be taken not to overheat the nearest contacts and elements.
Replacing light bulb LEDs: how difficult is it
If you have a soldering station or a hair dryer, this job is easy. It is more difficult to work with a soldering iron, but it is also possible.
Good to know! If there are no working LED elements at hand, you can install a jumper instead of the burnt one. Such a lamp will not work for a long time, but it will be possible to win some time. However, such repairs are made only if the number of elements is more than six. Otherwise, the day is the maximum work of the repair product.
Modern lamps run on SMD LED elements that can be soldered from the LED strip. But it is worth choosing the ones that are suitable for technical characteristics. If there are none, it is better to change everything.
Related article:
For the correct choice of LED devices, you need to know not only the general ones. Useful information about modern models, electrical circuits of working devices. In this article, you will find answers to these and other practical questions.
Repair of the LED lamp driver in the presence of the electrical circuit of the device
If the driver consists of SMD components that are smaller, we will use a soldering iron with a copper wire on the tip. During a visual inspection, a burnt element was revealed - we solder it and select the appropriate one according to the marking. No visible damage - it's more difficult. We'll have to solder all the details and call individually. Having found a burnt one, we change it to a workable one and. It is convenient to use tweezers for this.
Useful advice! Do not remove all elements from the printed circuit board at the same time. They are similar in appearance, you can later confuse the location. It is better to solder the elements one at a time and, after checking, mount them in place.
How to check and replace the power supply of LED lamps
When installing lighting in rooms with high humidity (or), stabilizing ones are used, which lower the voltage to a safe one (12 or 24 volts). The stabilizer can fail for several reasons. The main ones are excessive load (power consumption of luminaires) or incorrect choice of the block protection degree. Such devices are repaired in specialized services. At home, this is unrealistic without the availability of equipment and knowledge in the field of radio electronics. In this case, the PSU will have to be replaced.
Power supply for LEDs
Very important! All work on replacing the stabilizing power supply for LEDs is carried out with the voltage removed. Do not rely on the switch - it may be incorrectly connected. The voltage is turned off in the switchboard of the apartment. Remember that touching live parts with your hand is life threatening.
It is necessary to pay attention to the technical characteristics of the device - the power must exceed the parameters of the lamps that are powered by it. Having disconnected the failed unit, we connect a new one according to the diagram. It is located in the technical documentation of the device. This does not present any difficulties - all wires are color-coded, and the contacts are lettered.
The degree of protection of the device (IP) also plays a role. For the bathroom, the appliance must be marked at least IP45.
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