Early autumn is my favorite time on Baikal. The crowds of tourists have already left, and the water is still giving off the accumulated heat, prolonging the summer for the whole of September.

And then the fluffy larches begin to turn yellow, Baikal becomes bright blue, the steppes become soft sand...

In addition to the saturation of colors and the pristine desert of the coast, there is another plus in autumn on Baikal: crystal clear air , which allows you to see for many kilometers. In summer, due to the difference in water and air temperatures, there is always a light milky haze over Baikal, and often thick fogs. In autumn, temperatures even out, revealing distant shores in every detail.

This time, the autumn trip to Olkhon brought me not only the joy of communicating with Baikal, but also a new interesting acquaintance, which made me think about a lot.

Young man. My peer. Born and raised in Khuzhir (a village of 1300 inhabitants, located in the most beautiful place in Baikal in my opinion, in its Heart - on the island of Olkhon). A man of amazing purity and ingenuity - there are many of them here: the Baikal wind blows everything superfluous, unnecessary from the children of its shores, and the Baikal water washes their hearts and souls day after day.

Many of them, the children of Baikal, tried to live in the city, with difficulty endured a year or two and returned to their native shores. Here is my new acquaintance - he studied in Irkutsk, started working at an aircraft factory, but soon returned to his island: "Everything is different there, in your city."

Fortunately, now in Khuzhir, with the development of tourism, there are many opportunities for work. Therefore, there is no problem of alcoholism here - local residents always have something to do: in July-August they work from dawn to dusk with tourists, and the rest of the time they build and repair camp sites for the new season, and, of course, they go fishing. So young people do not leave the city. And who leaves - then only for the winter.

My new friend lives here all year round. Almost every day he goes to sea for omul, as his father and grandfather did. In the tourist season, he carries excursions on his UAZ. The car is his best friend and favorite pastime. He is also very happy that in his spare time he works on a water carrier (there is no running water on the island). With such sincere enthusiasm, he told me what a good job it is to bring water to every house: on Monday to these streets, on Tuesday to those ...

We walked along the deserted streets of the evening village. The full moon and millions of stars shone for us from the clear Baikal sky. Here one of them cut through the darkness right in front of us and went out. “I want to be born here, on Olkhon,” I thought.

My cherished dream is to move to live on Lake Baikal. But that evening, no matter how I tried, I could not imagine myself living here, in the village on the island. Yes, Baikal, it will always be there: the beloved Olkhon steppes, clean air and a clear starry sky, the smell of wild rosemary, thyme, and kind, sincere people... But something in this whole picture is not complete. Where am I in it? Oh, everything would be easier if I was born there.

In the meantime, I am returning to the city again and soon, once again, I will go to distant countries. To one day come back here, to the shore of Lake Baikal. And maybe find your home here. When the time comes.

Why can one get sick with Baikal for life? How do local shamans control the weather and what does the tiny golomyanka fish taste like? Valery Sokolenko, the creator of the Baikal Fan project, spoke about this and many other things during a lecture organized in the Museon art park by the Trip Secrets project together with the Afisha-Mir publication. Lenta.ru publishes excerpts from his speech.

Sea Baikal

Never say "Lake Baikal" - the locals really don't like it. Baikal is not a lake, but a sea. Its length is 625 kilometers, the maximum depth is one kilometer 652 meters, the width is up to 65 kilometers, and the wave height reaches 15 meters. 80 percent of the flora and fauna of Lake Baikal are endemic - living creatures that are not repeated anywhere else in the world.

Baikal is 25 million years old, and scientists have proven that it is literally in its infancy. The lake expands in width and length, goes to the Tunkinskaya valley, on opposite sides of which there are mountains. On Khamar-Daban, the ancient ridge, there is a chic freeride, magnificent ski slopes. In this regard, it is an order of magnitude better than the Caucasus. In Baikalsk, located near Khamar-Daban, low prices, free lifts and excellent infrastructure. Two years ago, the only enterprise in this city that somewhat spoiled the ecology of Lake Baikal was closed - a pulp and paper mill. Although in fact it is very difficult to spoil it, because it is a self-cleaning reservoir.

There are no mosquitoes on the shore of Baikal near Listvyanka (although it is possible in the forest), because the water temperature is plus four degrees. Mosquito larvae do not live at this temperature.

The strongest wind on Lake Baikal is called sarma, as it breaks out of the Sarma Gorge. Its speed is 250-300 kilometers per hour. He demolishes everything, it is impossible to stand. Ships that do not have time to land, sarma breaks and destroys immediately. At the same time, it appears and disappears instantly, for only three to five minutes. Sarma rarely blows in winter, most often it happens in the off-season - in early autumn and spring.

On the eastern coast of Lake Baikal there are warm beaches, sory bays with a water temperature of up to plus 20. Fish are perfectly caught there: large pikes, ides, perches (there is also a sturgeon, but you can’t catch it). There are mosquitoes here, but not as many as they say, and they are not as scary.

What to watch

Most of my acquaintances, who came for three days, put a tick “I was there”, and then they write down twenty other places on Baikal where they want to visit. My grandmother, who is 75 years old, said: "I'll come, I'll look - and that's it, bury me." Now she has plans, she paints where else to go on Baikal.

I don't know other such places in Russia. Sixty kilometers one way is kayaking, swimming, fishing, jeeping in winter. Sixty kilometers to another is mountains: skiing, snowmobiling, climbing and rock climbing. Twenty kilometers in the third direction are water sports, including extreme ones. All six levels of river complexity are represented on Baikal, from standing water to waterfalls. If you want to fly, you can do it on a paraglider and on Yak-12 aircraft.

The ice on Baikal is transparent. In Moscow ponds, its thickness is 10-15 centimeters, and fish with algae under it is not visible. The thickness of the Baikal ice is from a meter to one and a half, it can withstand an excavator. But if a fish or seaweed swims under you, you will see it.

However, it should be remembered that Baikal is a living organism, and its ice walks. Today you can drive through one section - and nothing will happen, and tomorrow a dead crack will form at this place. Given the thickness of the ice and the depth of the reservoir, you are unlikely to be pulled out. Therefore, it is worth driving a car around Lake Baikal only with trusted people - “ice captains”.

There is a myth that the season on Baikal is only in summer. This is not true. Summer on Baikal is the high season - for tourists who like to warm their belly. First of all, such tourists go to the village of Listvyanka - as everyone calls it, "the tourist Mecca of Baikal." The water is cold, they don’t swim there, 10 meters from the shore the depth is already 150 meters.

Photo: Alexander Miridonov / Kommersant

You go and think: what is there to see? ABOUT! Fish market. You see an omul, you want to buy it, and the seller asks: “Where are you from?” - “From Moscow” - “350 rubles head” - “How 350 ?!” - "Well, take the tail for 350." Walk a little further from the main road, and there will be huts of local residents. They catch this fish themselves and sell it for 50 rubles.

The coolest Baikal delicacy is omul. No matter how it is cooked: smoked, and dried, and omul on horns are the highlight. It is prepared as follows: sticks are stuck on the sides of the fire, salted fish is planted on them, on which cuts are made, and fried.

In Baikal there is a golomyanka, an endemic fish so transparent that you can literally read through it. It is worth leaving it on a stone under the rays of the sun, it will disappear - only the eyes and bone formations on the fins will remain. Forty percent of the fish is fish oil, and it tastes like candy. This is not a commercial fish, it is not harvested. Golomyanka is caught only by local residents as an exception.

But the most popular endemic is still not the golomyanka, but the seal, the Baikal seal. This is a real miracle, and its pups cause special tenderness. They are born in winter, white in color to blend in with the snow and avoid being eaten by predators. On the one hand, the seal is plump (after all, it lives in cold water), on the other hand, in terms of briskness it will not yield to a torpedo. When we were kayaking, a boat overtook us, and suddenly we saw a seal overtaking the boat. For 15 years, a ban was imposed on catching this animal. But if at the time of its introduction there were about 200 thousand heads of seals, now there are more than one and a half million. It is now being removed from the Red Book and they are starting to catch it.

In early spring

Until June, the water in Baikal is very cold, you can not swim. Ice drift begins here at the end of April and ends just in time for the end of June. The world's only official journey on an ice floe is held here - not along the reservoir itself, but along the Angara River, at the beginning of the ice drift. It begins in Listvyanka, which is located at its source. An ice floe breaks off there and goes downstream for a distance of 30-40 kilometers. Nearby, of course, a hovercraft is sailing and the Ministry of Emergency Situations is watching all this.

The Angara is a non-freezing river, besides it has the largest source in the world. 336 rivers flow into Baikal, and only one flows out - the Angara. Why doesn't she freeze? Let us recall that the water temperature of Lake Baikal is plus four, and it is this temperature that makes up the course of the Angara.

I recommend coming to Baikal from early March to mid-April. At this time, a huge number of winter sports festivals are held there. You need to go to the Small Sea (near Olkhon, this is the center of Baikal) - there you will find ice jeeping, ice skating, skysurfing. Finally, you can just walk on the Baikal ice.

Photo: Vladimir Smirnov / RIA Novosti

Olkhon and Tazheran steppes

The plane does not fly directly to Lake Baikal, it flies either to Irkutsk, located 60 kilometers from the western side of the reservoir, or to Ulan-Ude, located about the same distance from the eastern coast. If you want to see the island of Olkhon, Arshan, the most beautiful Peschanaya Bay in Russia, go to the Tunka Valley and go skiing, I recommend getting through Irkutsk. If you want to swim in warm waters - go through Ulan-Ude.

If you have ever seen Martian landscapes - the Tazheran steppes, lying along the last section of the road to the Small Sea, are very similar to them. There are several caves from the Neolithic period (one and a half to two million years old). The largest cave in Russia - Okhotnichya - is located on Lake Baikal. It has not yet been fully explored, but skeletons of prehistoric animals have already been found there.

There is also Mount Yohe Yordo with a perfectly round foot, where the Mongolian-Buryat Olympic Games are held. One of the sports presented at this "Olympiad" is throwing stones, and these are not just stones, but boulders of 50-70 kilograms. The games are held every two years in mid-June.

From the Tazheran steppes, you can get to Olkhon only by ferry, which is located in the village of Sakhyurta. It is free, as this route is considered federal.

Photo: Vladimir Smirnov / RIA Novosti

In addition to the original nature, Olkhon Island is the center of Russian Buddhism and shamanism. Many people imagine shamans as dense people in strange clothes who heal from diseases. In fact, only one thing is true: they heal. These people are also among the most educated.

A real shaman lives in Olkhon (believe me, there are not so many of them in the world) - Valentin Khagdaev, we often communicate with him. He has two educations - Oxford and Moscow State University. He can control the weather with his tambourine (this may seem ridiculous, but when you see for yourself, you will understand that this is so). Khagdaev is a shaman of the fifth level out of nine possible. The fifth level is two tambourines, clothes and the ability to predict rain and read any person.

The strength of Baikal energy is such that you are charged with energy for a year. You will get sick of Baikal and will dream there again.

Unfortunately, when mentioning the possibility of a tourist trip not only to Baikal, but also to Siberia in general, many residents of our country have associations that immediately eliminate the desire to get acquainted with the rest on Baikal.

Let's try to figure out whether it is really worth making plans for a vacation on Lake Baikal and what costs it can cost you. What is the truth and where is the error?

Again, I took the Internet as a source of information. Tourists planning to spend their holidays on the shores of Lake Baikal share their thoughts and plans on the pages of websites.

Here is a list of doubts and questions that are heard most often

1. Very far to go.
2. There is almost nothing to see on Baikal and it is not worth wasting time.
3. A trip to Baikal is a very expensive pleasure.
4. There is almost no tourist infrastructure there.
5. On Baikal, insects will eat you, and if not, then bears will attack.
6. It makes sense to go on vacation to Lake Baikal only in summer
7. The water is cold, even in summer you can't swim.
8. It's scary to go to Baikal on your own! It is not known how to get to the sights, where to drive, where to stay, how many days to plan a trip.

So, on these points in order.

Yes, Baikal is far away, but not the edge of geography

How to watch more. For some, Crimea is very far away, for some, Moscow, for others. Our country is great. If you look at the map of Russia, you will see that Lake Baikal is actually located almost in the middle between Moscow and Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky.

The distance from Moscow to Lake Baikal is about 5000 km, which is equal to 5 hours of flying on a salome. This is more than to the most popular Antalya (3.5 hours), but the difference is not huge. Moreover, departure from Moscow is late in the evening, and arrival in Irkutsk, respectively, in the early morning according to local time. Conveniently.

By plane, you can fly directly to Irkutsk, which is the most popular starting point directly to the lake, from Moscow, from St. Petersburg and from other cities: Yekaterinburg, Novosibirsk, Rostov-on-Don, Samara, Perm, Tyumen, Surgut, Omsk , Krasnoyarsk, Mirny, Tomsk, Barnaul, Blagoveshchensk, Vladivostok, Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk and Yakutsk.

There are also flights from Moscow and St. Petersburg to Ulan-Ude, which is also located near Lake Baikal, but on the other side of Irkutsk.

But many travel by train. Along the lake is the Trans-Siberian. People go to Irkutsk, Ulan-Ude, Baikalsk or Severobaikalsk. From the same Moscow, the road will take up to 4 days one way. But for many it is not convenient to fly through Moscow, you still have to get there. Rail transport is still more developed and cheaper.

There are also enough auto tourists. This is primarily residents of the adjacent regions of Russia, of course.

Holidays on Baikal are chosen annually by more than a million people. Not many tourist destinations can boast of such a figure and it says a lot!

What to see on Baikal

Yes, stop looking! You won't even be able to see everything at once. Baikal is very versatile in terms of options and places for recreation. Its beauties and all sorts of corners are not possible to explore even in a few holidays! There are both summer and winter activities here. And someone also highlights the spring period! Only autumn turns out somehow not in favor of tourists - the winds blow and it's cold.

I'll start with a beach holiday on Lake Baikal. He exists! The most popular are the bays (this is such a strait) and the East coast from the side of Ulad-Ude. The water there is warm and especially clean, the sand is white, there is a lot of sun and amazing landscapes around.

Active rest on Baikal

For lovers of active or even extreme recreation, Baikal offers a variety of opportunities. Many rivers and streams flow into the lake. In general, the lake is located among the mountains. So for lovers of rafting on mountain rivers, kayakers, divers and cyclists there is where to strain your muscles.

Jeeping, ATV or snowmobile trips are available. In winter there is a place to slide down the mountain, the most famous place is Mount Sobolinaya near Baikalsk.

Wellness rest on Baikal

There are also water clinics on Baikal, if semi-wild places, for example,.

Anyway, this is Siberia. There are many protected areas around Lake Baikal, where the state of nature is monitored. Therefore, rest on Lake Baikal promises not only clean water, but also clean air, as well as many positive emotions from contemplating the majestic landscapes of the Baikal region.

In all the resort areas that exist around Lake Baikal, you can find a route for an active search for adventures, or you can stay in one place and calmly enjoy nature, absorbing the special energy of these places.

And there are so many natural, cultural and historical attractions on Baikal that no one probably knows all the secrets that the shores of the lake and its waters keep. There are many places of worship here, several of them are on the island, others are along the land coast. Archaeologists have found many sites of ancient man and will surely find more. Shamans and Buddhists on Baikal here and there. In short, there are enough sights for you.

And once again I remind you that the mountain slopes themselves around the lake with their vegetation are already a tourist attraction.

Is it expensive to go to Baikal

Most of those who come to rest on Baikaal are a low-budget, as they say, category of citizens - students and pensioners. The very fact that they come here speaks of the accessibility of the resort areas of Lake Baikal in terms of the cost of recreation.

Rest on Baikal, like rest in other places, is costly in terms of the road. Many travelers have long noticed that the most expensive thing on any trip is the way there and back.

If we take Moscow as a starting point, then a round-trip flight will cost about 25 thousand per person. From our Omsk to Sochi in the season - for comparison, the same 25 thousand, but if you take a ticket in advance, yes, 2-3-4 months. Otherwise it will be 30-35 thousand. And this despite the fact that the flights are non-stop, and the distance from Omsk to Sochi is less than from Moscow to Irkutsk.

The plane is for you as a guideline for the maximum program. By train, by car, and even more so by hitchhiking, it is cheaper, but it takes a long time to get there.

The vast majority of tourists get to Baikal through Irkutsk. Then who is in, who is on, who is on the Small Sea, and who is just in the forest.

You can even get from Irkutsk to Baikal by minibus, or by boat or regular bus. Here you need to specify depending on the place where you are going.

About accommodation

The most budget tourists or just lovers of communication with nature go on vacation to Lake Baikal in the summer and with tents. There are many paid campsites, there are places where they won’t take money at all (but you have to look).

If the tent is not your choice. I want more comfort - either renting a room in the private sector or a room at a recreation center or in a guest house. The private sector is cheaper at prices, but even here it is preferable to book in advance. A million tourists a year is no joke. The demand for accommodation is great, the locals are building, of course, but in the high season it is better to take care of housing in advance.

Ways to go on vacation on Lake Baikal

If you are full of doubts and insecurities, then this is the best option for you. through a travel agency. Now probably already in all corners of Russia such tours are offered. But there are two points here:

• do not forget that you are in Russia, where the all-inclusive system has not taken root yet. Find out in detail what you pay for and what you will have to pay extra for
• more often, the tour package does not include the way there and back. They meet you in Irkutsk or Ulan-Ude, and only from there they lead you under the arms, they tell and show everything.

The advantages of such a holiday on Lake Baikal, as elsewhere, are that the tour operator decides all the organizational issues of the holiday for you. You can choose a route in advance, see a lot, but as always in these cases, run.

And the prices on the websites of travel agencies look really frightening - 50,60,70 thousand per person, and this is without a road. Perhaps that is why many associations about the high cost of recreation on Lake Baikal. People first of all now go to the Internet, and see such price tags - and that's it, the desire is gone! Rest on Baikal in any case is not the cheapest of all possible options, but read on…

Independent rest on Baikal

Anyone who decides to take on all the difficulties of organizing a trip can save a lot. And according to statistics, more than 70% of tourists who come to Baikal choose an independent vacation.

Obvious pluses - you choose the route and the level of expenses yourself. At the same time, you can spend prices from 500 rubles per day without meals (at camp sites) for accommodation. And even less in a tent on any part of the Baikal coast that you like. You don't need to bring a lot of groceries with you. There are shops in all settlements.

Medium-cost option - around Baikal with a guide

Option for the rational. There are also private guides on Baikal. True, no one has registered on my site yet (at the time of this writing). But suddenly! - check by . This option is good because you will be supervised, and a private guide will not take as much as an agency. Although of course it all depends on your interests ... ..

The guide will work out the route for you, making it as informative and interesting as possible. He will book places, call a helicopter and arrange with a shaman to take you to the most secret place (this is my fantasy, just kidding).

Volunteering to Baikal

This option is more for young people. But in this way it is possible not only to see Baikal in all its grandeur, but at the same time not only not to spend money, but even earn money. The volunteer movement on Baikal is actively developing. There are many protected areas, for example,. Helpers are needed at any time of the year.

Since 2003, the international project "" has arisen and is being implemented on Baikal. Within its framework, a trail is being laid for hiking. And there is no end of work. After all, who does not know, most of the coast of Baikal has not yet been developed, there are no roads and villages - only taiga and rocks.

In short, volunteers have a lot to do. And in the evening, rest on Lake Baikal or near it.

About the tourist infrastructure on Baikal

Well, of course, not Greece, and not even Turkey, and perhaps this topic on Baikal does not reach Sochi. But it's more of a plus! If you need only comfort, a bathrobe in your room, and a sun lounger on the beach, then Baikal is not for you.

The more actively the introduction of tourism industry technologies into the organization of resorts on Baikal, the stronger will be the influence of man on this unique natural complex. And people go to Baikal exactly to nature, which is still clean and full of light energy and strength.

As for the tourist infrastructure, on the very coast of Lake Baikal it is no less than in Altai or Kamchatka. As in any tourist place, there are always recreation centers, cafes, guides, ATMs and transport.

Well, if you are going to Baikal to see its wild and pristine nature, why do you need infrastructure at all. Somewhere in the depths of your mind, hold the thought that there is a village along the compass to the southwest and that's it! Live like a savage in nature for these few days (but take care of provisions and don't forget the tent!).

About mosquitoes and bears

There are no mosquitoes on the coast of Baikal at all! They don't have a climate here. In the winter-spring period, the water in the lake is cold, and mosquitoes do not have the opportunity to breed here, because these insects breed precisely through warm water.

There are bears, yes, but they do not wander around the villages. And they are actually found only in the northern part of the territory. So the bear is not a fool, he needs you very much! If only awake, after hibernation (April-May) what will confuse. In recent years, there have been isolated cases of tourists meeting a bear and not a single one with major troubles for a person (rather, the bear will not be lucky).

Is it only possible to visit Baikal in summer?

Not! Holidays on Baikal have acquired a year-round character! At any time of the year there is something to see and do on Baikal. As I already wrote, there are fewer tourists in autumn, but this does not mean that there are none at all.

The most popular months of course are summer - July and August. The winter season is in February-March, when the lake is shackled by the strongest ice, and the views of these ice floes excite the mind.

Someone loves March on Baikal -. At this time, without strong winds and frosts, you can get directly on the ice to the Baikal Islands, see mythical and religious places, easily move from the west coast to the east (and in summer you will have to go around the lake for a long time or wait for the ferry).

About cold water on Baikal and beach holidays

Baikal is certainly not the Gulf of Thailand in Thailand. The lake is deep. One of his mysteries is that at the depth of Baikal at any time of the year constant water temperature + 4 degrees. So swimming among the lake is probably very cold even on the hottest days.

And along the entire coast of Lake Baikal there are many bays and bays, where the depth is acceptable for swimming and the temperature in the summer season is higher. From mid-July to the end of August, the average water temperature reaches +20 degrees, and in some places especially favored by tourists - up to 25 degrees.

As for tanning - it's even easier. Baikal is one of the sunniest places in Russia.

Beach holidays on Baikal, as already mentioned, are developed on the shores of the Maloe More Bay (including on the side of Olkhon -) and on the East coast.

Is it scary to go to Baikal on your own?

Probably the first time! Where is it not scary? It is only experienced travelers who have visited different countries and situations that take a new trip calmly. For the vast majority of people, this is perhaps the most burning question.

Now it’s easier to travel anywhere, because there are a lot of information resources on the Internet. One such resource is the website My geography". A lot has already been written about Baikal here. Read, get acquainted, look for fellow travelers. In short, get ready mentally and technically.

All the best in your choice of vacation!

The topic of space aliens, supposedly living in the inaccessible depths of Lake Baikal, arose almost simultaneously with the landing of an unidentified flying object in Kudara-Somon in 1990.

Disturbing news began to spread among local fishermen that in different parts of the water area they were sometimes frightened by certain humanoid creatures in brilliant costumes, like dolphins jumping out of the water around their boats and longboats. One of the fishermen, Nikolai Kireev, even showed me a place in the south of Lake Baikal, where he and his comrades from the village of Kultuk encountered a stunning vision.

When the fishermen arrived in the evening at the fishing site near the Circum-Baikal Railway, they were met by several such "ichthyanders" in metallic-looking robes. One can imagine the horror of people when, here and there, from the depths in the evening darkness, one by one, as if playing, “human dolphins” began to jump out and immediately noisily go into the water, raising fountains of spray. Having abandoned their nets, the Kultuchites fled home in a motorboat, accompanied by mysterious pursuers for a long time. More they did not swim in that terrible place with depths of up to 1400 meters. And Nikolai Kireev generally abandoned night fishing. I met with other participants in that long history, until they suddenly passed away one by one.

When a three-year international expedition of limnologists on the Mir deep-sea manned submersibles began work on Baikal, I invited Nikolai Kireev to repeat his story to scientists who were preparing to explore the bottom of the lake approximately in the place of the water area where he met with "ichthyanders" three meters tall. The rescuers of the Irkutsk Ministry of Emergency Situations also wanted to hear this story: it turns out that their comrades in the service were also surrounded under water by some “human fish” in space suits, and when they tried to capture one of them with trapping nets, they were thrown out of the depths by an unknown force ... And it was as if the Minister for Emergency Situations, Sergei Sho-ygu himself, instructed to use the services of the "Worlds" to examine the area of ​​​​underwater contact of extraterrestrial beings with people.

These messages were important to the hydronauts, but sounded cautionary. And although scientists were skeptical about information about paranormal phenomena, nevertheless, when descending into the abyss of Lake Baikal, we anxiously glanced out the windows and listened to the outboard noises. However, the meeting with the mysterious "ichthyanders" did not happen. I prepared more thoroughly for the next summer season of deep-sea diving (on the topic of contacts with extraterrestrial civilization). He brought a large article from the New York newspaper "New Russian Word" entitled "Combat Contacts with UFOs." Its author, former Soviet military man Mark Shteinberg, told how unidentified flying objects behaved when they met with units of various branches of the Soviet Army. At the same time, he claimed that until the beginning of the 90s, this information was classified, and even today the military is reluctant to share it.

“In the summer of 1982, together with Lieutenant Colonel Gennady Zverev, I held a gathering of reconnaissance divers from the Turkestan and Central Asian military districts in Issyk-Kul. Suddenly, the head of the diving service of the engineering troops of the USSR Ministry of Defense, Major General V. Demyanenko, flew to us. He informed us about an emergency at the same gathering of the West Siberian and Transbaikal military districts, which were held at about the same time on the western shore of Lake Baikal.

There, reconnaissance divers during combat training dives repeatedly met unknown divers, similar to people in everything, but huge, almost three meters tall, in tight-fitting silver overalls, despite the icy water of the lake. At depths of about 50 meters, they did not have scuba gear, or any other apparatus, only a spherical helmet hiding their heads. They moved at great speed.

Alarmed by this, the assembly command decided to detain one such "Ichthyander", for which they sent a special group of seven divers led by an officer. However, when trying to throw a net at this creature, the entire group was thrown out by some powerful impulse to the surface. And since the autonomous equipment of reconnaissance divers does not allow climbing from such a depth without observing the decompression stops, all members of the ill-fated capture group were stricken with decompression sickness. There is only one remedy for treatment - an immediate decompression regimen in a pressure chamber. There were several of them at the assembly, but only one was in working order, capable of accommodating no more than two people. They put four people in there. As a result, three, including the officer, died, the rest became disabled.

Subsequently, already at the headquarters of the TurkVO, we received an order from the commander-in-chief of the ground forces with a detailed analysis of the Baikal state of emergency and the distribution of appropriate slaps in the face to the military. An information bulletin of the headquarters of the engineering troops of the USSR Ministry of Defense was attached to the order, which listed, in particular, deep-sea lakes where anomalous phenomena were recorded, the appearance of underwater creatures similar to the Baikal type, descents and ascents of huge disks and balls, a powerful glow from the depths, etc. All these documents were of high secrecy, brought to the attention of a limited circle of people and had the goal of "preventing and not allowing in the future."

The facts and events set forth in Mark Steinberg's article probably took place, since the message was not classified as conjecture. In January 1993, it was reprinted on the pages of such a serious all-Russian social and political publication as the Federation newspaper (that is, in government media). No official denials were received, as well as comments from the Ministry of Defense. Then I saw reprints in other newspapers and magazines of the country, already with the addition of new details of the event that took place on Lake Baikal.

Employees of the Irkutsk Ministry of Emergency Situations, seconded to the expedition on the Mir deep-sea manned submersibles, explained that the meeting with the Baikal Ichthyanders actually took place in the waters of northern Baikal during joint exercises with the military. Now I’m starting to guess what kind of military I met in the Barguzinsky Bay in the summer of 1982-1983, who answered my questions about the purpose of their work on Baikal that they were studying the depths of the Siberian reservoir, and that limnologists know far from everything about its underwater life . But it would be logical in this regard to see sailors in the military unit, and not officers with signs of belonging to the engineering ground forces. In addition, if the conflict between the submariners and the Ichthyanders took place in the north of Baikal, then whom did the Kultuk fishermen see in its southern half? Or are they the same humanoid creatures of unknown origin, who have mastered the entire water area of ​​​​the lake, and who knows where "living" on its inaccessible bottom?

I don’t know whether it was from these newspaper and magazine publications, or from some other sources, that a Moscow group of ufologists from the NTV television company arrived at Baikal with the assurance that local Pomors from time to time see unidentified flying objects diving or soaring into the sky from the depths of the lake - balls and plates of various sizes. As if at the bottom there is a hidden base of aliens who do not want to make contact with people, considering them to be "subhuman". And as if the captains of the ships at night even see a kind of glow in the water column, reminiscent of searchlights, accompanied by frightening "unearthly" sounds.

What to say? The glow is indeed fixed in different layers of deep water. In salty seas and oceans, it is created by animals with luminescence. Are there similar organisms in fresh water conditions? Frightening sounds from the depths of Lake Baikal are not new, especially in winter. But they are associated with tectonic processes leading to earthquakes. The uterine heavy sound of underground bowels during catastrophic movements of the earth's crust is not for the faint of heart. In winter, a beginner can go into shock when a deafening rumble is heard and a one and a half meter thickness of ice breaks before our eyes.

And what about the fireballs or disks wandering over the water area? And it's not a fantasy either. They are talked about by many who spent nights by the fires on the coast in the summer. Here are two observations from my personal experience.

Warm August evening. The sun has almost set behind the Baikal ridge of the "Irkutsk" coast. Looking out the window from my dacha at the Boyarsk railway station, I suddenly noticed a luminous ball almost in the middle of the lake. Through binoculars, it was clear that this was not a flame of a gas ejection (which is not uncommon on Baikal), but a perfectly round physical body. It had nothing to do with the shape of a surface ship. On the waves raised by the wind, it held firmly and confidently, it did not drift anywhere. When it got dark, its lower base began to emerge: like a second, but underwater ball. I attributed this vision to the reflection of a floating luminous apparatus.

The second incident occurred at Tankhoi station. A group of sightseers and I walked along the embankment of the Trans-Siberian railway line. It was such a warm evening. Several fishermen with fishing rods were sitting in boats near the shore. Out of the corner of my eye, I noticed that something small, black, fell from the sky at high speed, but, before reaching the surface of the water, it went low over the waters of Lake Baikal along the coastline. Another moment, and this "something" will crash into one of the boats with fishermen. But, before reaching a few meters from the target, the vision disappeared in an instant, as if it had never existed. Stunned, I asked the companions: "Did you see?" - "Yes, what was that?" - “It is clear that it is not a bird: the form is not the same and did not wave its wings. And most importantly, where did she disappear without a trace?

Maybe it was just a dream. But after all, my companions of dozens of people noticed the same thing! They agreed that it could be some kind of space probe of aliens. Here it is appropriate to recall another vision of early autumn half a century ago that struck me in my youth. Walking along the abandoned track of the Circum-Baikal Railway late in the evening, I suddenly felt a certain unease and noticed a sharp darkening of the atmosphere, as during fog or smog. Not having time to understand anything, he was immediately stunned by the appearance of a cigar-shaped object in the sky. It flew from the side of the Tunkinsky Alps to the village of Kultuk and continued to move through the southern tip of Lake Baikal towards the Khamar-Daban mountain range. The object had the correct geometric shape of a cigar-airship, flew against the wind, leaving behind a contrail, like a jet aircraft. Its color was the same as the body of the flying object: silver-orange, luminous and similar to a gaseous formation. Its dimensions were approximately determined at 200 meters long and 50 meters wide along the central part of the hull.

As soon as the object appeared on the horizon, my body was paralyzed with fear. It's as if nature has frozen. But, most likely, this was the result of a sudden onset of deafness. I saw the leaves on the trees trembling, but I did not hear their noise. On Baikal, waves rose, crashing onto the rocky shore, but they were silent and did not seem to make a rumble. I wanted to take cover in the nearest tunnel, but I couldn't move my legs. The hair on my head stood on end, and I stood, dumbfounded, opening my mouth in surprise. The only thing that was in my power was to follow with my eyes a flying apparatus of unknown origin, rapidly moving at a high altitude.

Directly above the water area of ​​Lake Baikal, three luminous balls (silver, reddish and yellow colors) unexpectedly fell out of the bottom of the UFO and scattered in different directions at the same speed, and the giant extraterrestrial structure continued its path further along the chosen trajectory. As soon as the UFO disappeared behind Khamar-Daban, the numbness began to recede, the ability to hear returned, I hurried to the village with unsteady steps, all the time looking back at the place in the sky where the UFO had hidden, and looking with my eyes for the small devices that had scattered from it, clearly reconnaissance purposes for the alien crew .

Many years later, in some scientific publication, I saw a message about how an unidentified flying object of a large size flew over Ulan-Ude. Comparing the dates and trajectory of the recorded flight, I realized that it was the same UFO that I had to observe over Baikal. Then, in archival documents, I found a mention of another similar case for 1909: a similar device flew over the Trans-Baikal Railway to Lake Baikal, having the shape of a ball, side windows and a contrail jet trail. Before the appearance of the first balloons and aircraft in this region, there were still 10 years left.

But back to the "ichthyanders". Folk tales about “mermaids” on Baikal are also known, but they are clearly associated with the unusual body shape of the seal (seal). But here is another story from a hundred years ago, which gives an idea of ​​some other aquatic creature of the mysterious depths of the Siberian lake. The Tobolsk peasant Kuzma Morokov spoke about his interlocutor, the Baikal coast-dweller (“The World of Baikal”, No. 2, 2004): “Fedchi Tarazan said that pharaohs live in Baikal. One day, the efti pharaohs played out and drowned the ship; so the inhabitants of the eftov place guessed - they threw a net and pulled out the eftikh of the pharaohs up to 50; a man at all, a head, hands and everything human and legs, only where the paws (traces), here the tail of a fish has grown together; here the inhabitants of the eftii imposed twigs and all the pharaohs were lashed and thrown into the sea; after it was gone by hand, the pharaohs were gone, they went to another place.

Aleksey Tivanenko, local historian, candidate of historical sciences.

Leisure

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"The Blue Eye of Siberia", "The Diamond of Russia", "The Well of the Planet Earth", "The Sacred Sea"... This is the name of the deepest freshwater reservoir in the world - Lake Baikal. The cleanest and most beautiful lake, recognized as one of the "Seven Wonders of Russia", is located almost in the very center of Asia, on the border of the Irkutsk region and the Republic of Buryatia. The majestic and bewitching nature of the region, which has the status of a reserve of planetary significance, defies description. To visit the Baikal region, to see the mysterious lake with your own eyes is everyone's dream. For those who have decided to turn a dream into reality, we present our review of what you definitely need to do when you arrive at Lake Baikal.

Extreme

The largest lake on the planet is attractive and accessible for travel at any time of the year. In winter, the nature of Lake Baikal and its environs will delight visitors with the splendor of its landscapes and fresh lake air. Riding on sleds along the Baikal bounded by a thick layer of ice along the Circum-Baikal Railway will give you incredible impressions. Friendly Siberian Huskies will rush you past fabulously beautiful ice grottoes, viaducts and tunnels carved into the rocks. In such an original way, you can also cross the Pearl of Siberia. The route will take several days, including stops in coastal settlements. The purest blue ice, transparent hummocks, the wide expanses of a winter lake surrounded by mountains, the receding horizon fascinate and endow with inexhaustible inspiration and energy.

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Dog sledding

Lake Baikal

Museum, Landmark

The multinational culture of the Baikal region appears in all its diversity in the Taltsy architectural and ethnographic museum, which is located in the village of the same name on the banks of the Angara, flowing from Lake Baikal. The original exposition of the museum is located in the open air and includes several historical and thematic zones dedicated to the indigenous peoples of the region - Buryats, Evenks, Tofs, as well as traditional Russian culture. Here you can see authentic examples of wooden architecture of the Baikal region of the 17th - early 20th centuries - religious, civil and defensive structures, which together make up a single historical and architectural ensemble. In the exhibition halls of the museum there are collections of items of peasant and urban life, a collection of Siberian iconography, works of fine and decorative art, collections of numismatics and bonistics.

In addition to interesting thematic excursions, Taltsy hosts exciting interactive programs and master classes in ancient crafts. Here you can celebrate a birthday or a wedding, as well as become a member of a fun folk holiday.

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Hunting and fishing

The history of the development of fishing on Baikal goes back to ancient times, as evidenced by numerous archaeological finds, rock paintings, stone sculptures. From time immemorial, fishing has been considered one of the main crafts of the inhabitants of the Baikal villages. Today, industrial fishing is carried out on the lake, but traditional fishing is also popular here. Even if you are not a big fan of this type of recreation, do not miss the opportunity to catch your Baikal trophy. Fishing on the "Glorious Sea" will not leave anyone indifferent and will certainly be promising.

Over 50 species of fish live in Baikal, including commercial ones - omul, grayling, whitefish, sturgeon, burbot, lenok, taimen, perch, pike, roach and others. Fishing on the lake is possible throughout the year. In the summer season (from June to mid-autumn), fishermen can use almost all gear. In winter (February - March), ice fishing is popular. It should be borne in mind that each type of fishing on Baikal, as well as hunting for a specific fish, has its own subtleties, which must first be known in order to choose the right gear.

An amazing combination of fresh air, beautiful nature and abundance of fish makes fishing on Baikal very attractive. We also note that the taste qualities of Baikal fish are at the highest level.

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Fishing in Bakyal

Sight

Baikal is surrounded on all sides by high mountain ranges and hills. To the south of the lake is the mountainous country of Khamar-Daban, one of the peaks of which is Chersky Peak. The name of the highest point of the Komarinsky Range was given in honor of the outstanding Russian geographer, explorer of Siberia Ivan Dementievich Chersky (1845–1892).

Conquering the hill, 2090 meters high, is within the power of everyone, and everyone is guaranteed the brightest emotions and unique sensations. The length of the trail starting from Slyudyanka is 25 km. The route, although not difficult, is quite diverse. Numerous river crossings, ascents, a visit to the picturesque alpine Lake Heart, named for its unusual shape, are waiting for you.

The top is a fairly large, almost flat area. From here, an amazing panorama of the snow-covered and mighty Khamar-Daban ridges, the snowy peaks of the Eastern Sayan and, of course, Lake Baikal itself opens up.

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Chersky Peak

Slyudyanka

Zoo, Landmark

The fauna of Baikal is unusually diverse, moreover, more than half of all animals are endemic, i.e. found nowhere else in the world. Such an exceptional species is the Baikal seal - the most beautiful inhabitant of the famous freshwater reservoir, which has become its symbol. This mammal belongs to the family of true seals. We emphasize once again - you can see it only on Baikal!

In summer, seals can be observed on the islands of the lake, which become their natural rookery. The movement of animals to the islands begins at sunset. However, the easiest way to get acquainted with the charming animal is to visit the nerpinarium, located in the village of Listvyanka, at the source of the Angara. Here you will be presented with an amazing spectacle - the only show of trained seals in the world that can sing, dance, play with a ball and even count.

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nerpinary

Gorky, 101A, rp. Listvyanka

Museum

The most detailed and versatile information about the unique natural formation of Siberia can be obtained at the Baikal Museum, located on the very shore of Lake Baikal, at the source of the Angara. This is one of the three in the world and the only limnological museum in Russia; a museum entirely dedicated to the lake, its physical, chemical and biological aspects. The activities of the institution, established in 1993, are aimed at collecting, storing and exhibiting information and objects that characterize the legendary reservoir, as well as promoting the latest scientific research on the lake.

The museum's collections illustrate the most important stages in the development of the Earth from the "big bang" to the present, including materials on the origin of Baikal and the history of its study. The latest methods of exposure are used here: multimedia, holographic, on-line observations. The unique “water” expositions became the specificity of the institution. This is the “Aquarium complex”, consisting of 11 huge aquariums connected by water exchange with the lake itself, which allows you to visualize the Baikal fauna as clearly as possible. The virtual exposition “Dive to the bottom of Baikal” is no less captivating: in the model of a submarine, with the help of documentary video materials, which are shown on 9 plasma screens-portholes, a complete illusion of gradual immersion to a depth of 1637 meters is created. There is also an open-air natural exposition in the Baikal Museum - "Dendropark" with rare plants and natural Baikal landscapes.

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Skiing

All lovers of outdoor activities should definitely leave their mark on the mountain slopes of Lake Baikal, covered with a deep layer of pure snow. The Baikal region has all the conditions for skiing. The ski season starts here in mid-November and ends in mid-May. The Baikal slopes are especially popular in March, when there is still plenty of snow, and the air temperature during the day can rise above 0°, which makes skiing more comfortable.

Gliding at high speed from the top through the endless snow-covered surroundings of Lake Baikal is comparable to free flight. The duration of the descents can reach up to 10 km, and the drops - up to 1200 meters! The best ski resorts on Lake Baikal are Eastland near the village of Listvyanka, Baikalsk on Mount Sobolinaya, Mamai at the southern end of the lake, Mount Bull on the eastern shore, and the Davan region in the northwest of Baikal.

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Mount Sobolinaya

Red Key, md. Baikalsk

Restaurant

One of the assets of the Baikal region is the Buryat culture that originated here and still exists today, the originality of which is reflected in local gastronomic traditions. Since ancient times, the Buryats have been engaged in cattle breeding and fishing, so the main products of their national cuisine have become meat - lamb, beef or horse meat, and fish caught in Lake Baikal. The culinary brand of Buryatia is buuzes, which are called poses in Russian. A juicy meat dish resembling dumplings or manti is steamed. According to custom, they eat buuzes (poses) with their hands, while first biting the bottom and drinking the broth formed inside the poses. Among Buryat meat dishes, we also recommend trying the traditional lamb soup called “buhler”.

Dairy products occupy a special place in the Buryat diet. Buryats cook first, second courses and even bread from milk. You should definitely try shanan zohei (salamat) - a hot dish of sour cream and flour, khuruud - pressed dried cottage cheese, as well as green tea with baked milk in Buryat style. The alcoholic drink tarasun is also made from milk. Not a single local feast is complete without Buryat "milk vodka".

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Park, Zoo, Landmark

Birdwatching is one of the most popular ecotourism destinations today. Watching the life of beautiful and rare birds in their natural habitat is a truly fascinating experience. Therefore, not only specialists, but also amateur ornithologists, as well as everyone who is not indifferent to wildlife, will be interested in visiting the Zabaikalsky National Park, which is located in Buryatia, on the eastern shore of Lake Baikal.

The territory of the taiga complex is inhabited by about 250 species of birds. Its most striking and characteristic representatives are stone capercaillie, hazel grouse, black grouse, mallard, herring gull, marsh harrier and others. Of the birds nesting in the national park, 19 species are listed in the Red Book of Russia, including the white-tailed eagle, black stork, black crane, whooper swan, peregrine falcon, eagle owl. One of the best places for an ornithological tour is the wetland ecosystems of the Chivyrkui Isthmus and the Svyatoy Nos Peninsula, which are part of the park, where you can observe the behavior of swans, herons, loons, curlews.

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Zabaikalsky National Park

District Barguzinsky

Sight