Assembling a soldering station on Hakko T12
The article briefly describes the prerequisites for choosing a soldering station specifically based on Hakko T12 tips, then provides a comparative analysis of several versions available on the market, and also discusses some features of assembling the soldering station and its final setup.
Why all the hype around the Hakko T12?
To understand why many radio amateurs Lately so interested in these Chinese stations, we need to start from afar. If you have already come to this decision yourself, you can skip this chapter.For anyone starting to learn to solder, the first question that arises is choosing a soldering iron. Many people start with cheap fixed-power soldering irons available at the nearest hardware store. Of course, some simple work, such as soldering wires, can be done even with a Soviet soldering iron with a copper tip, especially if you have the skill. However, anyone who has tried to solder something more technologically advanced with such a soldering iron, the problems become obvious: if the soldering iron is too weak (40W or less) - some parts, for example the leads connected to the ground pad, are very inconvenient to solder, and if the soldering iron is powerful (50W or more) ) - it overheats very quickly and instead of soldering, ritual burning of the tracks occurs. Based on the above, even if you are just learning to solder, it is advisable to still buy a soldering iron with the ability to adjust the temperature. However, more often than not, soldering irons with simple controls built into the handle are products of extremely low quality, so if you are already wondering about choosing a normal soldering iron, you should most likely look in the direction of soldering stations.
Most often, the next question is which soldering station to choose. There may be variations here, since professionals mainly work with rather bulky stations combined with a soldering gun, such as PACE, ERSA, or, at worst, Lukey. I don’t need a hair dryer at home, but at the same time I want to have a reliable, powerful and compact station with the ability to adjust. Because workplace not rubber, the station must be really small, so many stations are out of size. Plus, of course, you always want to stay within a reasonable budget. And here our Chinese friends come onto the scene with their stations designed to work with tips from the Japanese company Hakko. Original soldering stations from this brand cost some inadequate money, but Chinese crafts for these tips, oddly enough, have enough high quality, at a very reasonable price.
So, why the stings from Hakko? Their main trump card is a ceramic heater combined with a temperature sensor. Actually, for a finished soldering station, all that remains is to “add” a PID controller and sufficient power to such a tip, which allows you to achieve fast heating and high-quality maintenance of the set temperature. Well, wrap it all in a convenient case. Actually, in soldering station designs, which can be found in abundance on Aliexpress for queries like "diy hakko t12", all this is implemented, and the Chinese usually include one or two Hakko tips in the kit (there is an opinion that these are mostly copies, however, even the copies have the same quality).
Choosing a kit for assembly
If you have already tried to search for a similar soldering iron on Ali, you were probably surprised by the variety of options that the search produces.At the beginning of 2018, searches on Ali most often come up with offers from the “firms” Quicko, Suhan and Ksger. Moreover, in the descriptions they sometimes even refer to each other, so it is quite obvious that they are the same thing, so from now on I will, if possible, skip specific names"manufacturer", referring only to the versions of specific stations, because a quick analysis of photographs suggests that if the versions match, then the circuitry is approximately the same.
In fact, there are generally not as many variations as it might seem at first glance. I will describe the main significant differences:
An approximate table of soldering iron power, depending on the voltage of the power supply:
- At 12V - 1.5A (18 W)
- At 15V - 1.88A (28 W)
- At 18V - 2.25A (41 W)
- At 20V - 2.5A (50 W)
- At 24V (max!) - 3A (72 W)
note, for some versions it is indicated that when using a power supply higher than 19V, it is advisable to unsolder a 100 Ohm resistor labeled something like “20-30V R-NC”. This resistor is paralleled with a more powerful 330 Ohm resistor and together they form one 77 Ohm resistor connected in front of the 78M05 chip. Having soldered off 100 Ohms, we will leave one resistor at 330. This was done in order to reduce the voltage drop on this regulator at a high input voltage - obviously to increase its reliability and durability. On the other hand, by raising the resistance to 330 we will also limit the maximum current along the +5V line. At the same time, taking into account that the 78M05 itself can easily handle even 30V at the input, I would not solder off 100 Ohms completely, but would replace this resistor with something in the range of 200-500 Ohms (the higher the voltage, the higher the value). Or you can not touch this resistor at all and leave it as is.
So, we’ve decided on the general package, now let’s take a closer look at the boards themselves of various versions.
Comparison of some versions
Nowadays you can find on sale a car from various stations under different names, it is unclear how they differ. I already wrote above that I bought myself a station on STC, so I will only compare the versions on this controller.The circuit design of all boards is quite similar, minor nuances may differ. I found a diagram online, drawn by a Wwest user from ixbt.com, for the version F. In principle, it is quite enough to understand the operation of the station.
Mini STC T12 ver.F soldering station diagram
To begin with, under the spoilers below are comparative photos of two versions of the Mini STC T12 ver.E And ver.F :
Appearance of Mini STC T12 ver.E
Appearance of Mini STC T12 ver.F
The first thing that catches your eye is the absence of an electrolytic capacitor between the indicator and the encoder in the version F, as well as a slightly smaller number of parts. It seems that the electrolyte was replaced with ceramic closer to the output of the 78M05, but it is difficult to estimate the capacity of the ceramic from a photograph. If there is something like 10 uF or more, then, given the small load power, this is quite acceptable. In the diagram for the version F This capacitor is designated as 47 uF tantalum, probably the author of the circuit had a board from Diymore (see below). Also, in more new version changed the contact pads for the NTC thermistor (in the version E it is designated as R 11) to a larger standard size, and they reduced the number of individual resistors by assembling them into another assembly - this simplifies the purchase of parts, reduces the likelihood of installation errors and increases the overall manufacturability, which can clearly be considered a plus. In addition, the electrolytic capacitor, which could be dispensed with, can also be written down as a minus for the version E.
In summary, the following can be concluded as an intermediate conclusion: if you have the opportunity to replace the electrolyte with a polymer, then it is better to take the version E. If you don’t care what to change, it’s better to buy more capacious ceramics and take the version F. And if you don’t want to change anything at all, then the question comes down to what will fail faster, the electrolyte, or the controller with unstable power supply. Considering that the version F The overall manufacturability is higher, I would probably recommend it.
Two more board options are less common - from Ksger and Diymore, and from them it is clear that the board routing has been further developed.
Appearance of Diymore Mini STC T12 (version unknown)
Appearance of Ksger Mini STC T12 LED (version unknown)
Personally, I like the version from Ksger best - it’s clear that it was created with love. However, the previously mentioned capacitor here is definitely no more than 1206 - there are practically no 10 μF ceramics available on the market for this standard size with a voltage of more than 20 V, so most likely, for the sake of economy, something small is worth it here. This is a minus. In addition, the AOD409 power mosfet was replaced with some kind of transistor in a SOIC package, which, in my opinion, has worse heat transfer.
The version from Diymore contains tantalum and the usual AOD409 in the DPAK case, so despite the fact that it is less visually attractive, it is clearly preferable when choosing. Unless you are ready to solder these elements yourself.
Total: If you don’t care at all what to buy and you don’t want to resolder anything after purchasing, I would advise looking for a version similar to the photo of the board from Diymore, or, if you’re too lazy to look for it, take the version F and change capacitors as described above.
Assembly
In general, assembling the soldering iron is trivial, except for the fact that for assembly you will need another soldering iron (smile). However, as usual, there are several nuances.Soldering iron handle assembly. The connector contacts on the board and in the handle may have different markings. This is unlikely to be a problem, since there are only five wires anyway:
- Two power wires - plus and minus
- Thermal sensor wire
- Two vibration sensor wires (the order is not important)
If the contacts on your handle are not labeled in any way, it is enough to know that there are only three contacts on the tip itself: plus (closest to the end on the tip), then there is a minus and the output of the temperature sensor. For clarity, I buried the diagram with Ali.
The Chinese sometimes label the thermocouple output as ground, but in the controller itself E is connected to ground - as far as I understand, this is not entirely correct, although I’m too lazy to figure it out, and I don’t have a ground anyway.
In some versions, in addition to the vibration sensor, you also need to solder a capacitor into the handle. I don’t know for sure, but the condenser may be between the plus and minus of the heater - so that it makes less noise in the RF range. It could also be a conductor between the temperature sensor and the ground - again, so that the temperature sensor readings are smoother and less noisy. I don’t know how practical all this is at all - for example, there was no room for a capacitor in my pen at all. In addition, some users wrote that the accuracy of thermal stabilization with the capacitor terminals closed was higher. In general, if this capacitor is provided in your model, you can try this and that.
Judging by reviews on the Internet, some pens, in addition to a capacitor and a vibration sensor, also had a thermistor, supposedly to control the temperature of the cold end. However, then the manufacturers realized that it was logical to place the cold side sensor directly on the controller board and they no longer suffer from such garbage.
About the vibration sensor. As a vibration sensor in such stations, either SW-18010P vibration sensors (rarely) or SW-200D (mostly) are used. Some craftsmen also use mercury sensors - I am not at all a supporter of using mercury in households, so I will not discuss this approach here.
SW-18010P is a regular spring in a metal case. They write that such a sensor is much less convenient for a soldering iron than the SW-200D, which is a simple metal “cup” with two balls inside. I had two SW-200Ds in my kit, and I advise you to use them too.
A vibration sensor is needed to automatically switch the station to standby mode, in which the temperature of the tip decreases until the soldering iron is picked up again. The function is ultra-convenient, so I highly recommend that you do not give up the sensor.
Judging by the picture with the connection diagram of the handle, the Chinese advise soldering the sensor with a silver pin towards the tip. Actually, that’s exactly what I did and everything works very conveniently for me.
However, for some reason this sensor does not work normally - they write that the soldering iron has to be shaken to wake it up from sleep mode and they explain this with a picture from which it is obvious that if the sensor is tilted towards the handle, there can be no contact until it is not shake it. In general, if in your case the station does not wake up from sleep mode when you just take the soldering iron, try re-soldering the vibration sensor with the reverse side.
There is one more hint - some cunning people advise soldering two sensors in parallel and in different directions, then everything should work in any position of the soldering iron. Indirectly, this assumption is confirmed by the fact that in many kits the Chinese put two sensors, and on the handle itself there are two places nearby where it is very convenient to solder them - most likely for this very purpose. Everything worked right away for me, so I didn’t check the hint.
If you still don’t want to use the auto-shutdown function at all or you don’t like the way the vibration sensor rattles, you can turn it off simply by closing SW and + on the controller board, and do not solder the wires going to the handle at all.
About the body. As I wrote above, I chose the standard aluminum housing that is offered for these stations. And on the whole, I am satisfied with my choice. There are several points to pay attention to.
First, you need to somehow secure the power supply to the case. I solved this simply by drilling four holes in the case and attaching the power supply to the screws. In my case, the power supply was simply a separate board with radiators, and since... The case is aluminum, it was necessary to make some bosses so that the power supply board does not lie directly on the case. To do this, I cut out two strips of plexiglass, in which I drilled two holes for screws, and this solved the problem. You can, for example, cut out insulating rings of the required height from some polymer tube, but it seemed to me that the idea with strips of plexiglass was simpler.
Secondly, I relied on the gloomy Chinese genius and did not check the dimensions of the case and power supply. This was a mistake. As you can judge from the photo below, it turned out that after installing the controller, my unit fits into the case almost flush, which is not good. I had to unsolder the output terminals of the unit and solder the wires to the controller power connector directly onto the power supply board. If there were no connector on the controller board, the unit would have been non-separable, which would have been much less convenient. On the 220V side I added additional insulation with heat shrink and a drop of hot glue. You can also see a strip of hot-melt adhesive on the 220V connector - so that it dangles less.
In general, despite the fact that everything fit with minimal gaps, it turned out acceptable, but a sediment remained.
About the power supply and controller improvements. As I wrote above, I had a version station E with regular electrolyte. Everyone knows that ordinary electrolytes tend to dry out over time, so I replaced the electrolyte with a polymer capacitor that was lying around. I also soldered the encoder contacts - many users noticed that without this the button in the encoder did not work (if you noticed, in the photographs given earlier, you can see that on three of the four boards the central contact of the encoder is not soldered at all).
The power supply that was sent to me complete with the station was defective - one of the diodes of the “hot part” was soldered with the wrong polarity, which is why the power mosfet burned out already the third time the soldering station was turned on and I had to figure out what the reason was, spending another half a day on repairing the power supply . It was also lucky that the PWM Controller did not die after the mosfet. What I mean is that it may make sense to assemble the block yourself, or use one that has already been tested.
As a minimal modification to the power supply, low-capacity ceramics from those lying around were soldered in parallel to the output electrolytes, and the interwinding capacitor was also replaced with a higher voltage one.
After all the fiddling around, the result was a fairly powerful and reliable unit and controller, although clearly more effort was spent than I had planned.
Setup after assembly
The station does not have many settings; most of them can be configured once.Directly while the soldering iron is operating, you can change the temperature adjustment step and perform software temperature calibration - menu items P10 and P11. This is done as follows - press the encoder knob and hold for about 2 seconds, get to point P10, briefly press to change the order (hundreds, tens, units), turn the knob to change the value, then press again for 2 seconds. hold the encoder knob, the value is saved, and we go to point P11, etc., the next 2s. pressing returns to operating mode.
To get to the extended software menu, you need to hold down the encoder knob and, without releasing it, apply power to the controller.
The most common menu is the following ( short description, default values are given in parentheses):
- P01: ADC reference voltage (2490 mV - TL431 reference)
- P02: NTC setting (32 sec)
- P03: op-amp input offset voltage correction (55)
- P04: thermocouple gain factor (270)
- P05: PID proportionality gain pGain (-64)
- P06: integration factor PID iGain (-2)
- P07: PID differentiation factor dGain (-16)
- P08: time to fall asleep (3-50 minutes)
- P09:(in some versions - P99) reset settings
- P10: temperature setting step
- P11: thermocouple amplifier coefficient
To move between menu items, you need to briefly press the encoder button.
The following menu configuration is also sometimes encountered:
- P00: restore default settings (select 1 to restore)
- P01: thermocouple amplifier coefficient (default 230)
- P02: thermocouple amplifier bias voltage, I don’t know what it is, the seller advises not to change without measurements (default value 100)
- P03: thermocouple °C/mV ratio (default value 41, it is recommended not to change)
- P04: temperature adjustment step (0 locks tip temperature)
- P05: time to fall asleep (0-60 minutes, 0 - disable falling asleep)
- P06: shutdown time (0-180 minutes, 0 - shutdown function inactive)
- P07: temperature correction (default +20 degrees)
- P08: wake-up mode (0 - to wake up from sleep you can rotate the encoder or shake the knob, 1 - you can only wake up from sleep by rotating the encoder)
- P09: something related to the heating mode (measured in degrees)
- P10: time parameter for the previous item (seconds)
- P11: the time after which the “automatic saving of settings” should work and exit the menu.
It is worth noting that, unlike board tracing, there can be many more firmware options, so there is no single correct description of menu items - there can be many options, even in the same version of the board they can differ. Is it possible to still recommend taking models with a text display, and if it doesn’t exist, look at the recommendations of the seller from whom you bought it.
conclusions
Conditional disadvantages:- Out of the box, the temperature of the tip does not necessarily correspond to reality; I had to tinker a little with the thermocouple to get an acceptable result.
- For each tip you have to calibrate the station again. I don’t change tips often, it’s not critical for me. In addition, some firmware versions provide the ability to save multiple profiles, so this minus is not relevant in some cases.
Total: Overall, the station works great and I think that the hemorrhoids with the assembly are completely worth it. A little later I will compare several different stations, and there I will describe all the advantages/disadvantages.
That's all, thanks for reading!
Electronic components are sensitive to high temperatures. This means that for each component there is a temperature above which it should not be heated.
Overheating of a component can occur both during operation of the device and during the soldering process. There are many reasons that lead to overheating during operation, which are not of interest to us today, since we will talk about soldering and soldering irons.
What is soldering?
Soldering call the method permanent connection several parts using a metal with a lower melting point than the parts being joined.
When solder is heated to the melting temperature, it spreads over the surface of the parts being joined, envelops the protrusions and fills the gaps between them. After the solder cools, a strong connection is formed. Soldering allows you to connect parts made of different metals. The main thing is that these metals are wetted with solder.
For example, tin-lead solder is well wetted precious metals, copper, nickel, brass, bronze and steel, aluminum, cast iron, iron are poorly wetted. Therefore, for high-quality soldering, it is imperative to select the right solder.
Solders
In the production of electronics, tin-lead and lead-free solders are used. The obvious disadvantage of tin-lead solders is lead. Lead-free solders do not contain lead, but this does not make them any less toxic. In addition, lead-free solders suffer from the formation of tin whiskers. So if you still think that ROHS is about improving the environment, it is not. I would suggest that the directive serves to mask the reduction in the lifetime of the email. devices of mass production.
Solder may additionally include cadmium, bismuth, antimony, zinc, and copper. They are included in the solder composition in order to give it additional properties. Cadmium to improve anti-corrosion properties. Antimony to add gloss. Solders with zinc are used where the soldering surface is exposed to moisture. Etc.
Solders are also divided according to their melting point into low-melting and refractory. The temperature after which solders are considered refractory is 450 C o. Among radio amateurs, the most common tin-lead solders are POS-40 and POS-60. The numbers 40 and 60 indicate the percentage of tin in the solder. The lower the number, the higher the melting temperature of the solder.
Soldering fluxes
For high-quality soldering of a component to a printed circuit board track, solder alone is not enough, since the soldered surfaces are oxidized, and oxides spoil the quality of soldering. To remove oxides from soldered surfaces, fluxes are used - substances that remove oxides and fats and improve wettability.
The use of a good flux makes the soldering process easier and also improves its quality. The fluxes themselves can be divided into those that require rinsing after soldering is completed and those that do not require rinsing. Washless fluxes are very convenient for use when soldering components that you can’t get under later. Such as microcircuits in BGA packages
Soldering tools
The main tool is a soldering iron. It comes in adjustable, non-adjustable, large, small, induction or regular. For manual assembly of electronic components, you should use adjustable soldering irons, which quickly heat up to a given temperature and maintain it during the soldering process, when heat from the tip is transferred to the solder, the conductor on the board and the soldered component and it cools.
Clones of Hakko stations are common among radio amateurs. They are many times cheaper. They often also have a soldering hair dryer on board. These stations use a copy of the 900M type tip. Copies of these tips have a birth defect in the form of an air gap between the heater and the inner surface of the tip. The original tip also has a gap, but it is designed so that during the heating process the gap will disappear due to thermal expansion metal, but in copies this is not taken into account. The result was a bad copy, since the tip takes a long time to heat up and cools down quickly when soldering massive elements. These stings will no longer be discussed.
Tips of the 900M type have been replaced by T12 cartridge tips, which do not have problems with the air gap. They are available in 84 types. I will consider the most interesting and popular ones.
How do T12 tips work?
The peculiarity of this tip lies in its structure: a capsule, inside of which a temperature sensor is located as close as possible to the tip. The station takes information about the tip temperature from the sensor and, using a PID controller, automatically adjusts the energy supply to the heating element.
Types of stings T12
The original developer of these stings is the Japanese company Hakko. She produces many interesting instruments. There are more than 30 species of stings alone. One of them is the T12 series, which became widespread due to the fact that the Chinese began to rivet these tips en masse and sell them at bargain prices.
The picture above shows examples of T12 tip types. The most popular: BCM/SM, BC/C, B, D, I, J, K. Tips of the SMD TYPE Quad/Tunnel type are quite exotic in the everyday life of a radio amateur. Now let's figure out what purposes which stings are intended for.
Type T12-K
Knife-shaped sting. One of the most versatile tips, as it can be used in different ways and work either with the tip or the flat part with the left or right side, or end. The choice of method of use depends on the soldering conditions.
The cutting length is 6.65 mm. With such a tip you can crawl into narrow spaces between components, solder several component pins at once, or tin the pads of a printed circuit board or wire. T12-K comes with right edge: T12-K, T12-KR,T12-KRZ; left: T12-KL; double-sided: T12-KF, T12-KFZ, T12-KU. All Chinese tips actually have double-sided sharpening.
Index U in the marking means a reduced tip diameter. This reduces its heat capacity. Index Z indicates that the sting has a thicker coating. This tip will last longer.
Type T12-BC/C
B.C. in the marking means that the tip has the shape of a truncated cone, and WITH denotes a sting in the shape of a truncated cylinder. The difference between them is their heat capacity. The stings Sun she's bigger. 
There are also variations of these stings: BCF/CF And BCM/CM. Stings with index F have a working surface only on the cut, and with an index M They have a small recess at the cut of the tip, which allows the tip to hold a drop of solder and soldering will be done with a mini-wave. All type stings BC/C There are diameters from 0.8mm to 4.2mm.
Stings type BC/C Designed for soldering heat-intensive components and leads between which there is sufficient distance so as not to get snot. Hakko also recommends using these tips for soldering chip components, as they allow you to form the correct solder joint fillet(s). older fillet).
Fillet(from German Hohlkehle - groove, recess) - a surface shape in the form of a groove, a recess on the outer or internal edge of a part.
When soldering surface mount components, properly made solder joints have a concave shape, which is ensured by the volume of solder and the process of wetting the contact surfaces. This shape ensures minimal solder consumption, as well as best conditions for uniform hardening to form a strong, defect-free joint.
Often the term "solder joint fillet" refers to the solder joint itself or the volume of solder in the joint.
Type T12-D
This type of tip looks like a regular flat-head screwdriver. You can work with such a tip either with the front side or the end side.
More than 10 subtypes of T-12D are available with tip widths ranging from 0.5 mm to 1.2 mm. What causes its heat capacity to change? The tip with a width of 0.5 mm has the smallest heat capacity
Most radio amateurs are accustomed to such tips, since the tips on ordinary soldering irons have a similar shape. Two more versions of such tips are available: with an extended service life (long life) and high-performance with increased heat transfer (heavy duty).
The index W is placed on a high-performance tip, the index L indicates that the tip has an elongated tip. For example, T12-DL. Such tips have a thermal capacity even greater than tips with index W
I talked about the most popular, in my opinion, stings. I myself use T12-B2, T-12K tips. By the way, when installing into a soldering station, new tips should be calibrated. Many stations allow you to calibrate tips and save a “tip profile” so that when replacing one tip with another you can switch the profile and not have to calibrate the tip again.
For my birthday I was given a soldering station with replaceable tips HAKKO T12. The kit included three tips, of which I use 2, and only because of poverty. Now we managed to take a set of stings for review - 10 pieces.
What are the benefits of this type of sting? Firstly, they heat up quickly - up to operating temperature heats up in 12-15 seconds.
Secondly, there is a built-in temperature sensor. If you have a normal soldering iron controller and an external temperature meter, it is possible to adjust it within +-7-10 degrees.
Thirdly, they are quick-release. Replacing one tip with another takes 5 seconds.
Fourthly - assortment
Of course, the Chinese brothers make copies, generally of good quality.
Why do you need such a set? Due to the wide range of parts, it is necessary to keep a wide range of tips. There is a universal type - but different sizes, there is one for soldering massive parts, a needle one - for small SMD parts, a poker - where it is inconvenient to get to the part...
As a result, if you solder different types of parts, you end up with 5-7 tips, which you use often.
But let's get back to the set.
It arrived in this form, packed in a cardboard box and bubble wrap.
The tips have 3 contacts separated by plastic rings.
The length of the tip in the set ranges from 147 to 154 mm - depending on the type.
Each tip has a sticker with the tip type and code.
Tip diameter 5.5 mm
Supply voltage - 24 volts
Power 70 watts
Temperature - up to 400 degrees (up to 450 is possible - but service life is reduced)
Compatible with lead-free solders
The set contains the following tips:
T12-B
T12-BC2
T12-D4
T12-C1
T12-C4
T12-D08
T12-D24
T12-IL
T12-JL02
T12-K
T12-K - convenient for heating several contacts or a massive part, for non-standard ones - welding polyethylene or cutting synthetic fabric.
T12-D08, similar in shape T12-B and T12-IL differ in diameter and sharpening angle
T12-JL02 - used in hard-to-reach places
T12-D4, T12-D24 - Chisel sharpening
T12-BC2,T12-C1,T12-C4 “hoof” - diameter 1, 2 and 4 mm universal tip sharpening
All tips came with a tinned tip.
They solder well, when soldering with ordinary rosin at a temperature above 300, black carbon deposits form on the tip, it is better to use specialized fluxes.
Personally, the kit lacks a “microwave” tip and one with a recess for soldering lead elements.
After a month of use, I did not find any traces of burnout on the sting. The copper one would have to be sharpened twice already.
Nice set for a reasonable price.
The product was provided for writing a review by the store. The review was published in accordance with clause 18 of the Site Rules.
I'm planning to buy +24 Add to favorites I liked the review +13 +31The popular Hakko T12 kit allows you to make a good soldering station for little money. This set was already reviewed on Muska, which is why I decided to purchase it. Below is my experience of assembling a station in a housing from available components. Perhaps it will be useful to someone.
What happened in the end. 
The assembly of the handle is described in detail in the previous review, so I will not review it. I will only note that the main thing is to be careful when positioning the contact pads. It is important that both pads for soldering the spring-loaded contact are located next to each other on the same side, because if you make a mistake, it will be quite difficult to re-solder. I have seen this error from several reviewers on youtube. 
Since the Chinese picture with pinouts looks somewhat confusing, I decided to draw a more understandable one. The order of contacts from the vibration sensor to the controller does not matter.
There was a dispute in the comments about correct position vibration sensor, also known as angle sensor SW-200D. This sensor serves to automatically switch the soldering iron to standby mode, in which the temperature of the tip becomes 200C until the soldering iron is picked up again. The only correct position of the sensor was experimentally established. The transition to sleep mode occurs if no changes come from the sensor for more than 10 minutes and, accordingly, exit from sleep mode occurs if at least some fluctuations were recorded. 
In this sensor, vibration readings are possible only at the moment when the balls touch the contact pad. If the balls are in the glass, then no data will be received. Therefore, the sensor must be soldered with the glass facing up and the contact pad towards the tip. The glass of the sensor looks like a solid metal face, and the contact pad is made of yellowish plastic.
If you place the sensor with the glass down (towards the tip), the sensor will not work when the soldering iron is positioned vertically and you will have to shake it to wake up from sleep mode. 
The sleep timeout can be adjusted in the menu. To go to the configuration menu, you need to hold down the button on the encoder (press the temperature controller) with the controller's power off, turn on the controller and release the button.
The sleep mode transition time is adjusted in P08. You can set the value from 3 minutes to 50, others will be ignored.
To move between menu items, you need to briefly hold down the encoder button.
P01 ADC reference voltage (obtained by measuring the TL431)
P02 NTC correction (by setting the temperature to the lowest reading on the digital observation)
P03 op amp input offset voltage correction value
P04 thermocouple amplifier gain
P05 PID parameters pGain
P06 PID parameters iGain
P07 PID parameters dGain
P08 automatic shutdown time setting 3-50 minutes
P09 restore factory settings
P10 temperature settings stepping
P11 thermocouple amplifier gain
If for some reason the vibration sensor bothers you, you can turn it off by closing SW and + on the controller.
In order to squeeze maximum power out of the soldering iron, it must be powered with 24V voltage. For a power supply of 19V and above, do not forget to remove the resistor 
Components used
The soldering iron itself is a replica of Hakko T12 with a controller
The most useful was T12-BC1 
It turned out that the temperature for each tip needs to be calibrated separately. I managed to achieve a discrepancy of a couple of degrees. 
Overall I am very pleased with the soldering iron. Together with normal flux, I learned to solder SMD at a level I had never dreamed of before:
Good day to you, dear geeks and sympathizers! Read carefully these lines of the great poet:
I knew only the power of thoughts,Mikhail Yuryevich was able to accurately describe the mental torment that besets many radio amateurs in search of a powerful, fully automatic, accurate, universal, reliable and inexpensive soldering station.
One, but fiery passion:
She lived inside me like a worm.
Gnawed out my soul and burned it!
Thanks to the hardworking Chinese comrades, the dream described above (as well as many others) may well come true at relatively low financial costs. We will talk about a kit for assembling a soldering station using Hakko T12 tips. This kit costs less than 18 euros on Aliexpress and contains all the necessary parts except the power supply and case. You can find many reviews of this set online.
A compact 100-watt (not really) 24-volt power supply costs about 8 euros including shipping.
The problem with this power supply is significant heating when the load is more than 75 watts. Since the soldering station consumes significantly less power, this power supply can be considered a suitable candidate with a clear conscience.
Let's move on to the body: this is where the maximum scope for creativity opens up and there are significant difficulties for radio amateurs who do not have a 3D printer for personal use. As you know, a pig's house should be a fortress. electronic device serves not only as a container for its components, but also prevents foreign objects from getting inside. The housing also protects the user from electric shock. If the case of a soldering station has the ability to install a soldering iron holder, a “third hand,” an illuminated magnifying glass and the ability to place a sponge for cleaning the tip, then this is no longer a case, but a palace.
Some of the above parts are combined into the following remarkable device:
The only problem with this device is the thin and poorly routed cable to power the LED backlight. It is best to replace this cable immediately. Because the LED lights requires a 5 volt power supply, we will also have to purchase a voltage converter from 24 to 5 volts. Chinese comrades will part with the necessary device for a symbolic 1.8 euros.
Please note: this converter is based on the XL4015 chip. Despite the stated output current of 5 amps, this converter only operates without overheating at currents less than 2.3 amps. Since this converter implements output current regulation, for reliable operation you can simply set the maximum current to 2.2 amperes and forget about the problem.
As you know, there is no tube of toothpaste that you cannot squeeze out another drop from. This highly scientific observation gave me the idea to output the resulting voltages of 24 and 5 volts to external terminals and use the soldering station as a power supply. Naturally, two USB connector so they asked to be on the front panel. The Germans call it "Eierlegende Wollmilchsau" (egg-laying dairy pig).
All that remains is to purchase a power cable with rubber insulation (soft and does not melt), a power switch with an indicator light, some silicone-insulated mounting wire (soft and does not melt), a couple of USB connectors, a four-pin terminal block (these are used for connecting speaker systems), 20 self-tapping screws M3 and 8 M2 screws.
My home 3D printer fakeQR deserves the high honor of making the case. The material chosen for the body was PETG filament from the Chinese manufacturer Winbo (Chinese with Chinese in Chinese, or else it will be). PETG has many advantages over other materials: excellent interlayer adhesion, no warping (“shrinking”) when printing large objects, high strength and resistance to factors external environment. For example, Coca-Cola bottles are made from this material.
After some fiddling around in the wonderful free CAD DesignSpark Mechanical, the parts for the future super soldering station mega-frame were created.
Front panel. Serves to fix the electronic control unit of the soldering station on the main part of the body
Main part. All other parts of the case and electronic components are screwed to it.
The following elements are located on the front wall of the main part: two USB sockets. power switch (switches on the back are a bit of a crime against humanity in my opinion), tabs for securing the front panel with electronic unit. On the back wall there is a pocket for a voltage converter and ventilation holes. The hole for the power cable on the outside is funnel-shaped to prevent the cable from breaking. The power supply is located at a certain height from the bottom wall to ensure Free access air through the bottom vents.
The cover of the electronics compartment is designed in the form of a tray in which you can store various small items. The housing is designed in such a way that no drops of tin or any small objects can get into the electronics compartment.
Bottom part and a drawer. On the inside of the back wall of the lower part there is a pocket for a magnet; in the corresponding place of the drawer there is a hole for a screw made of magnetic material. Holding the drawer with a magnet is a cheap, reliable and simple solution, in my opinion.
After assembly, the soldering station looks exactly like the hedgehog from Ushinsky’s famous fairy tale. (the animal was “wrongly cut, but tightly sewn” and thereby avoided many troubles).
After assembling the first version, the 3D models were corrected, refined and simplified, you can download them
