Polymers are relatively new materials that have steadily entered our lives. We use polymer products as decorations, dishes, glue, varnishes.
The rapid conquest of the market by polymers is observed due to their technical properties. High elasticity, water resistance, lightness. The material is capable of certain conditions change your physical form. In addition, the material is quite strong and light.
Basic properties
The first mention of plastic was recorded in the early 30s. German Fifi Rebinder developed clay for doll heads. Soft, pliable material for the release of products. It is very similar to plasticine in all properties. Has a specific smell. Retains its shape, hardens and loses its plastic qualities after processing high temperature(up to 130° C). When working with the material at home, an oven is well suited to achieve this result. As the temperature rises, an inconvertible process occurs. Subsequently, various paints and varnishes can be applied to the frozen work, and the parts can be joined together with glue.
Manufacturers immediately paint polymer clay in certain colors. There are sets of palettes with interesting effects: glitter, metallic, stone effect and even luminous.
For your product, you can easily choose exactly the type of color and additional effect, which corresponds to your idea of \u200b\u200bit - just a class.
FIMO- a company with a worldwide reputation for the production of polymer clay. On the this moment plastic is produced in several types with different properties, different colors, serially in blocks or individually.
Gallery: polymer clay products (25 photos)
Classification:
- FIMO classic. Color block of 24 shades. Available in 56 gr, 350 gr. Beautiful products from this brand are obtained using the kaleidoscope or kane technique. Initially hard, but after kneading it becomes more plastic. Experts advise starting kneading with a small piece. You can also use Fimo MixQuik softener. It does not change the color and structure. Direct sunlight destroys the structure and turns the clay into stone.
- FIMO soft. Ideal for children's play. soft, does not require special efforts. A very popular item. Available in the same configuration as the classic. Suitable for mixing with FIMO classic, thereby improving their qualities.
- FIMO effect. Improved soft. Set of 37 shades. The series is filled with color special effects. Effect natural stone, luminous, transparency, shimmer, metallic and many other color effects allow you to work and apply this type of plastic in many techniques.
- FIMO puppen. The name itself speaks of the purpose. In German it means doll. It has 4 main types of skin tones. Packing of 500 grams. The material holds the shape of small parts well. You can achieve additional colors by mixing previous brands.
- Gel. Allows you to simulate glass and other translucent parts. Bonding parts.
There are also less popular polymer clay companies on the market.
What can be made from polymer clay:
- Christmas tree toys.
- Decorative items for the home.
- Jewelry, bijouterie, hairpins.
- Author's works of designers (mini-sculptures, flower compositions, etc.).
How to produce and by what technology?
There are manufacturing technologies different kind crafts and decorations. And I must say that the ability of clay to convey all the elegance of color, the texture of the figures is simply surprising with its naturalness. Show the highest class when manipulating polymer clay within your strength with the acquisition of extensive experience. Material long time stored without loss of their qualities. Due to its availability and ease of use, clay has become a source of additional income for many people. Making goods in a simple way and putting them up for sale. There are no limits to fantasy. Almost every person wants to make a pendant, a photo frame, a toy or some other object with their own hands.
The needlewomen themselves choose the style and technique, how to make plastic jewelry with their own hands. Experiment with color and texture.
- the most common technique and very interesting topics that the pattern is achieved on the cut. The technique is called Sausage or Cane. Thanks to her, the same blanks for bracelets and beads are made. Ready-made blanks are available in stores, which will facilitate the work of young craftsmen. This technique allows you to make earrings, bracelets, rings as a set. Depending on the experience of the master, you can make a simple or complex drawing.
A simple polymer clay sausage modeling lesson, creating fruit canes, will help you achieve the desired result. Watching videos of master classes by different experts in making polymer clay jewelry with their own hands will help to increase the level of skill.
Color mixing technique(smooth transition). The same or different proportions of pieces in color and weight during subsequent mixing give a unique pattern to the product. Therefore, the products are highly individual.
salt technique. The finished product is well rolled with salt. After drying, the salt is simply washed away. The recesses that appear give an entertaining look.
Filigree. Modeling requires accuracy and care from the master. Very meticulous work with small details.
Making beads, the technique is great watercolor. Making a wide bracelet using the kaleidoscope method - great idea. Use your imagination and connect your hands.
A beginner, wanting to gain experience in making plastic jewelry with his own hands, can be guided by the advice of experts in this matter.
Masters are happy to share their work with the help of master classes on the Internet. In the video tutorials on creating jewelry from polymer clay, the master class is conducted by people who themselves started with modeling sausages and simple beads. It is possible to enroll in jewelry modeling courses, if such exist in your city. On the Internet, you can take a whole course of training to make various kinds of items with your own hands from polymer clay, which are used in the jewelry market. good demand because of its uniqueness.
Every fashionista needs an accessory to complete her look. Top notch when made by yourself. You can not only brag new thing but also show your taste and style.
Expert advice on how to make polymer clay jewelry. be guided step by step instructions masters. View the master class "Polymer Clay. Jewelry pendant. Turn on your imagination and get started.
To get started, a beginner needs to have:
- clay (at least 2-3 colors);
- knife (blade);
- smooth surface for processing (plastic board, oilcloth, sheet of paper);
- a pin with a loop;
- a piece of wire 5-10 cm;
- varnish or transparent gel;
- thin rubber gloves;
- oven to complete the process.
Bend the wire to any shape you like, give it the appearance of a frame. Take clay of two colors and combine it arbitrarily. Roll up the sausage. Mash this sausage with a 2.5 mm flatbread. Press the wire into the clay with a rolling pin. Trim the edges along the iron contour. Make a ball or drop and attach at the top of the product. Poke with a pin. You will get a clasp fastening. Put in the oven at the temperature indicated on the package of clay. Cover the completely cooled pendant with varnish. You've got a beautiful piece of jewelry.
Business idea for organizing small-scale production of products from various molding materials at home. Thanks to innovative technologies today, in the manufacture of plastic products, you can do without expensive injection molding machines. Moreover, you can set up small-scale mini-production right on your desktop. This business idea can be considered in two directions:
- As the main business for the manufacture of finished products and molds by casting from: liquid:
- plastic;
- silicone;
- polyurethane;
- transparent resins and other materials.
- Mold making as an effective addition to other types of business in the area:
- construction;
- Food Industry;
- soap making.
In the first and second cases, casting at home does not require large investments. financial resources. You can start an injection molding business just now.
Manufacturing with Liquid Plastics
The manufacturing process is carried out using liquid plastics and silicone molds. Now it is possible to produce plastic products in small batches at home:
- souvenir products;
- toys;
- bijouterie;
- spare parts for autotuning;
- spare parts for various mechanical devices;
- shoes;
- dishes.
There are components for the manufacture of parts from thin-walled plastic, which can significantly expand the range of products and produce parts of any complexity. For example, mixing two components of the Axson FASTCAST F32 brand from a French manufacturer produces a super-liquid plastic that flows into the smallest folds of the relief of the model's shape. In addition, it is harmless to children and has no smell.
Preparation for production
To organize production, first of all, a sample model is required. According to it, you first need to make a mold from special silicone or polyurethane components. With experience and the quality of materials, you can learn how to remove molds from models at such a high level that you can even see fingerprints on products (if necessary). That is, a copy will turn out at the level of identity, which cannot be distinguished with the naked eye. Plastic products can be given complex compounds with any relief. If there is no ready-made model for a sample, but you need to make unique products, you can order it from the owners of a 3D printer. By the way, injection molding significantly exceeds the productivity of 3D printing from plastic.
When your product is ready, you can decorate it with the help of related products that are attached to liquid plastics:
- paints for artistic effects;
- primers;
- glue.
Naturally, in some cases, creativity is indispensable, and you will have to manually paint the products, which may affect performance. But the creation of each business is undoubtedly a creative process. After all, financial management is an art.
We make a product from liquid plastic
Technology for creating an ideal small relief in the manufacture of a silicone mold with your own hands. First you need to prepare all the components and materials. We will need:
- Silicon Platinum.
- Liquid plastic Axson FASTCAST F18 (white color, has the consistency of water, odorless!).
- Dye for scarlet silicone.
- Polyurethane varnish.
- Scales.
- Syringe.
- File-buff.
We securely fix the model-sample at the bottom of the formwork to form the form, using neutral wax clay (to avoid silicone leakage). We paint the silicone, from which the finished form will turn out in scarlet color, so that the quality of mixing the components of the liquid, white to the color of the plastic can be clearly seen on the form. Useful advice: in order for the shape to be perfect, the sample model should first be smeared with silicone using a wide brush. In this way, carefully fill in all the recesses of the relief of the compound. Only after that, fill the form completely. We fill the entire formwork with silicone. We leave to fix the structure of the form for 7-8 hours. The hardest part is over.
Congratulations!!! Now you have a ready-made form for the repeated production of copies of the sample model. Make sure the mold is completely dry before casting to avoid bubbles. Then we very carefully mix the plastic components 1: 1 by weight (for this it is better to use a pharmacy or laboratory electronic scale). The setting time is 7 minutes, but it will take another 20 minutes to fully consolidate. This plastic is neutral to silicone and does not stick to it. But after repeated use of the compound over time, you may need a lubricant release agent with the protective properties of EaseRelease. After the required time has elapsed, we take out the finished product, which is copied exactly according to the model.
Polyurethane molds for construction
Injection molds can be produced together with plastic products. The use of injection molds in construction is now very popular. It is possible to produce compounds for the production of building materials. They are durable and do not require treatment with special separating lubricants during manufacture. After all, concrete is absolutely neutral to polyurethane. For example, liquid polyurethane compounds allow you to make molds for pouring:
- concrete decorative products (tiles, fences, etc.);
- plaster elements of interior decoration (balusters, moldings, etc.);
- liquid plastic when creating a variety of products (souvenirs, toys, figurines, etc.).
Silicone molds for confectioner and soap making
The use of mold casting technology in the food industry is quite obvious. New innovative solutions in the field of chemistry today offer liquid: plastics, silicones, silicone masses that comply with all health standards and have the appropriate certificates. Such safe components can be used to produce molds for the food industry. For example, for production:
- chocolate
- caramel;
- isomalt;
- ice;
- mastics.
Compounds are also in great demand among soap makers. They are always in need of new original molds to create salable souvenirs made from soap. It is not at all difficult to find a customer who wants to make their products with a unique shape.
small business idea opportunities
This business idea makes it easy to create popular products with your own hands. Finished works can be sold through the online store. It is also possible to provide services or sell finished compounds to other manufacturers in other industries. Most importantly, with all these wide range of home business opportunities, the cost of the components is more than affordable. The range of components is wide and allows you to select the necessary materials for creating forms or filling them. All that is required is a sample model from which the form will be removed. Such a business idea is quite attractive for a home based business. It does not require a lot of costs, allows you to produce useful goods and captivates creative process production.
(polymer clay, fimo) - a plastic material based on polyvinyl chloride for modeling (small products, jewelry) and modeling, hardening in air or when heated (depending on the type of plastic).
Without delving into chemistry, polymer clay is a plastic mass, most of all appearance and tactile sensation reminiscent of plasticine. It contains a special plasticizer that evaporates either in air or in an oven (usually at 130°C). According to the method of removing the plasticizer from the material, plastic is divided into two main types - baked and self-hardening. After polymerization, the material becomes durable - and this is the main difference from plasticine. At the same time, self-hardening polymer clay is made similar to gypsum or wood and can be processed with the appropriate tool. Baked clay is harder, and resembles plastic. Finished products can be painted acrylic paints, stick together and with other materials.
Baked polymer clay comes in a wide range of colors. These are ordinary colors, and with the addition of sparkles, and translucent, and fluorescent. Self-hardening plastics are much narrower in color - white, gray, terracotta.
Plastic from different manufacturers is somewhat different from each other, both in work and in the final product. When sculpting, it can be harder or softer, after polymerization it can have a glossy or matte surface, there are some other differences. Over time, everyone who is passionate about sculpting from this material chooses the most suitable brands for themselves, or else finds their own “formula”: clays from all manufacturers mix well with each other, which can give very interesting effects when sculpting and at the end. For beginners, we recommend buying Fimo - the de facto standard in polymer clay.
How it was...
The triumphal procession of this material, invented in the thirties of the last century in Germany, began in 1964, when the Fimo trademark appeared. At the moment, the German company Eberhard Faber is the largest manufacturer of polymer clay, and the word "fimo" itself has become a household word. Also in Runet you can find the terms "plastic" and "thermoplastic", which are synonymous with the general designation of the material. It's under different trademarks- for example, Cernit, Sculpey - produced by several American and European manufacturers. In Russia, there is the only plastic manufacturer in St. Petersburg. The “Artifact” and “Sonnet” produced by him are currently somewhat inferior to foreign brands, but the recipe is constantly being improved, while the price of domestic polymer clay is significantly lower.
MATERIALS
baked plastic
Plastic, or, as it is also called, polymer clay, is a plasticine-like synthetic material that hardens after heat treatment at temperatures from 100 to -150 C. In other words, you can bake it in a conventional oven. There are quite a lot of such plastics now, I will tell you about those that I am familiar with.
fimo- at first glance it seems hard and brittle, but if it is properly warmed up in the hands, it becomes quite plastic. Based own experience I will say that it is difficult and unpleasant to work with him, you mold like from bitumen. It is difficult to smooth out, there are folds and seams. But after firing it becomes quite durable, this is a plus. In addition, this material does not lose fine details in the process. Good for shaping clothes folds, etc.
Fimo Soft- very soft, not suitable for fine work. But when mixed with Fimo, it makes it possible to obtain plastic with excellent (as they say, I have not tried) qualities. Actually, for these purposes it is usually used.
Cernit- plastic with a translucent, wax-like structure. It quickly reacts to the warmth of the hands, “floats”, I do not recommend it for beginners. But mixing with other plastics to give the desired color is quite. Friends with Fimo, Fimo Soft, Super Sculpey. After baking, it becomes quite strong.
Super Sculpey- in my opinion, almost perfect. Moderately soft, moderately hard, holds its shape well, does not float, is friendly with all of the above plastics, and can be mixed in any proportions. I recommend.
To the everyday question: How much? I answer - expensive. On average, a box of good plastic costs 300-400 rubles, and it is enough for a maximum of three dolls. That's if you're lucky. But recently we have small packs, 60-90 rubles each. One in a good scenario for a small doll is enough.
So, we figured out the import. Now with regard to the fatherland. Here the choice, alas, is small - Plastic (St. Petersburg), white and terracotta. If you mix them (a lot of white and a little terracotta), you can get a good flesh color. There is also a color of six colors - but the shades are very poisonous, so it's more for children's creativity. Although, if you dilute it with white, maybe something worthwhile will work out, but I have not tried it. And more recently, another material has appeared (also from St. Petersburg) - Miracle plasticine "Flower - six, eight or twelve flowers" In this set, the colors are more pleasant, and there is black and dark brown. The processing mode is close to "Plastic", and, what is most pleasant, these two materials are mixed in any proportions. But my advice to you, do not mess with our plastics unless absolutely necessary. You can buy them only if there is absolutely nothing to choose from. It sticks to hands, does not hold its shape, you can sculpt from it only if you periodically put it in the freezer (I'm not kidding). The fact is that from the warmth of the hands it almost instantly begins to melt, and it is impossible to mold from it for more than 10-15 minutes. Yes, and you will have to wash your hands 20-30 times in the process, this plastic absorbs dirt very well. You don’t need to buy it in order to learn from a cheap one (it costs 150 rubles), you won’t learn anything worthwhile from this rubbish.
Self-hardening plastic
Not all plastics need to be baked in the oven, and there are some that harden on their own, usually within a day or so. From which it follows that it is impossible to store a pack of plastic open. After you have finished sculpting, wrap the remaining plastic in a damp cloth, put it back in the pack, wrap it up and clamp it with clothespins. So it can be stored for quite a long time.
So, you can buy from us:
paperclay- "plasticine from paper", or improved papier-mâché. A white mass that hardens in air in about a day. It is very plastic, light, practically does not stick to hands, it is a pleasure to work with it. In the package is already ready for use, if it is a little dry and hard - you can slightly moisten it with water, and everything will be fine. After drying, it is light and quite hard - you can sand, cut, saw, etc. But you also need to handle such a doll gently - press a little with your fingernail - a scar will remain. You can sand with sandpaper (just don't overdo it, if you polish too long with a zero, the doll will become too smooth, marbled, which looks unnatural). You can slightly moisten the already polished product with water so that the top layer is slightly limp, and walk a little with your fingers. The result is a texture close to human skin. This material is painted with anything, from oil to acrylic, but watercolor is most often used. Be careful, you can not wash off the applied paint! It is relatively inexpensive - 200 rubles per package, which is enough for a doll of 20-25 centimeters tall, if made entirely of plastic. Highly good stuff, I recommend to all.
Efaplast holsy. It comes in white, yellow, pink and terracotta colors. The packaging says "plastic-wood". Indeed, it becomes like wood when it hardens. Working with him is not easy, not easy at all. Heavy, hard, terribly sticky to hands and dries for a very long time. But this is her floor of trouble. It shrinks, and unevenly, it leads quite strongly in a spiral, so it has to be sculpted in layers. First, a skull with eyes built into the eye sockets, then, two days later, cheeks, a nose, a chin, etc. It takes me from four days to a week on my head, mainly due to the fact that the blank dries for a very long time. And after sculpting, also sand it with a sandpaper (you can’t polish it with water, it shrinks from this!). Why am I suffering, you ask? Because you like the end result. The doll is VERY strong. Of course, it is not worth throwing it against the wall, but it will withstand a fall from one and a half to three meters, it has been verified. The texture is smooth, pleasant to the touch, and not as sensitive as Paperclay. Not porous, dust-dirt does not absorb, it is very well painted with any paints. In short, this is one of my favorite plastics, and is relatively inexpensive - from 80 to 200 rubles. But you shouldn’t take it right away, it’s better to gain experience, on the same Paperclay, for example.
Efaplast classic very similar to the one described above, with the only difference being that it practically does not shrink. But a little more fragile and heavy. It comes in pink, white and terracotta colors. I do not recommend the latter, it has a very unpleasant orange tint. Only if it is for painting,
Efaplast easy. It does not stick to the hands, it is pleasant to the touch, it is light in work and in weight. Very good for children's creativity. The disadvantage is loose. Again, if you press something sharp, a trace will remain. But in principle, the trouble is not great. It comes in white, black, blue, red and, in my opinion, green. From 80 to 200 rubles.
Papier mache. Served in powder, which must be diluted with water. It is very difficult to mix and knead it to the desired consistency, so that it is not too liquid and not too hard. The surface is porous, for small dolls I would not recommend it. But for large, like theatrical, or masks - that's it. Colored for everyone. It costs differently.
In the departments of stationery, you can sometimes find the so-called masses for modeling on a ceramic basis, in other words, clay. For example, Jovy, I started with him. In its own way, very good material. It does not require firing, but it is possible, when the details of the doll have already dried up, to hold for 15 minutes in the oven at a temperature of 150 degrees. So it will be stronger. You can grind, cut, paint - too. You can’t drop it, clay is clay in Africa too. How much it costs - I do not know, I have not bought it for a long time. Also about 200 rubles, I think.
EYES
Problem from problems at least, for me. I know of three types. There are plastic eyes for textile doll, which are very well suited for plastic dolls. They have a flat oval shape and very limited color scheme. They can “leak” in the oven, although this has never happened in my practice. Not too expressive, so you will need to carefully work out the cut of the eyes, glue the eyelashes and draw shadows, otherwise the doll will look cheap. By the way, they really cost a penny, 40-50 rubles, depending on the size.
Another variety is the eyes, which are brought from Japan (the name is not known to me), they can be identified by a plastic case. They are made in the shape of an eyeball, the iris is deep, transparent, they look very natural. The richest color scale, is red, yellow, lilac. Not eyes, but a dream. The iris is made of glass, the apple itself is made of plastic, so they can theoretically leak, but again, I have never had this happen. In fact, they have one drawback - the price. From 320 rub. up to 600. Murder.
And the last - the eyes of the glass. They will not melt under any circumstances. Also in the shape of an eyeball. But unfortunately, their proportions are not always clearly observed, sometimes the iris of the eye is obviously “large”, so you can only make a very anime doll. There is also a color scheme, but boring, the choice is usually small. They cost from 350 to infinity.
If all this music is too expensive or not for sale anywhere, you can make them yourself. To do this, you will need to make balls of the desired size from plastic (any), then paint and cover with glossy varnish.
By the way, you can buy special eyelashes for dolls for the eyes, they cost about 70 rubles a ribbon, which is enough for four dolls. They are glued to the eyelids with superglue, you can cut it, paint it - no. By the way, ordinary false eyelashes for dolls are not suitable, don't even waste your money. Too rough. Although you might be lucky to find something worthwhile. Again, it depends on the size of the doll.
HAIR
Yes, almost anything. Fur, woolen threads, silk, mono-thread for beads - no one limits your creative freedom. I love working with wool blend yarn. The thread must be dissolved into fibers, which are then wetted and ironed with an iron so that they are even, and not “zugzig”. The resulting strands can be wound, fixing with hairspray. Glue to the head with superglue, very thin strands.
If you don’t want to do it with pens, there is also a factory version. You can buy the so-called wefts - thin goat hair, which is sewn on a ribbon that is almost invisible to the eye. It must be laid on the scalp in the likeness of a wig, fixing everything with the same superglue. There are tresses different colors, but if a suitable one was not found, you can buy white ones and dye them with any cream hair dye. They are expensive - about 200 rubles per meter, but guaranteed to be worth it. They look very natural. Not so long ago, I met in the store "All for Needlework" a braid made of goat hair - 70 rubles each. meter. Haven't tried it yet, but it should work.
Another option is synthetic doll wigs. I do not recommend, because they look exactly like synthetic wigs, and the size is very large.
You can buy a cheap synthetic chignon and make a wig out of it, but keep in mind that the fiber there is quite stiff, and you still won’t do a graceful styling. And yes, it is very difficult to put them on the head.
Human hair (some puppet makers are ready to cut both themselves and their neighbors for the sake of a good doll) I would not recommend. For superstitious reasons. A doll is a mystical creature, and then there is organic matter, and even her own or a friend-relative. Who knows, suddenly voodoo will work? Seriously, better not.
TOOLS
All that is dear to the heart. Stacks, small scissors, toothpicks, hairpins, manicure tools. Start sculpting - you will understand what you need.
WHERE COULD I BUY?
This is very difficult. There are only two places in Moscow where you can buy something for puppetry:
First - Central Children's World, fourth floor, a specialized store of the Russian Doll House, there is also a department of goods for artists. Yes, on the first floor in the stationery department, there are also plastics sometimes.
The second is a store for artists next to the Central House of Artists (more precisely, to the left of it, if you stand facing). There are no more outlets in Moscow, I don’t know how things are in Russia. Browse the Internet, go to the departments of stationery and toys, look for products for children's creativity. I can't help anymore.
MODELING TECHNOLOGIES
baked plastic
It is impossible to sculpt a doll entirely from any Super Sculpey. Firstly, fly out into the pipe, and secondly, a piece of plastic 5-7 cm thick will never be baked to the end. Outside, it will burn, but inside it will remain soft. So some kind of foundation is needed. It is best to use food foil for these purposes. Form a dense ball out of it, better approximated in shape to the human skull, fix the eyes with small pieces of plastic, and start sculpting. But you need to remember that the plastic layer must be at least 4 mm. (the foil may shine through or the plastic will crack) and no more than 7 (does not harden to the end). Modeling ... well, here I am, alas, not an assistant to you, myself-herself-herself (s). Experience and training, otherwise nothing. What is important - the plastic must be very carefully smoothed, and it is better to cut off pieces from it, if possible, than to sculpt new ones. The fact is that if air remains between the layers, a crack will inevitably form in this place during baking, and maybe a bubble. In addition, do not forget that before heat treatment, products are very afraid of dust and dirt, they cling to and absorb it with all their pores. But this minus is also a plus - the product can be tinted with any powder dyes. The easiest way is to take ordinary decorative cosmetics for these purposes, you can get the cheapest one. The main thing is that it would not be mother-of-pearl - it will look ugly. Before sculpting, the plastic needs to be kneaded well, but if it is in contact with the hands for too long (and this is a temperature of about 37 degrees), the clay begins to “partially burn”, in other words, it becomes hard, so you shouldn’t squeeze it in your hands for too long either. By the way, storing plastic for decades is not recommended - plastic properties deteriorate.
When firing, you must strictly observe temperature regime. That is, if the temperature of 130C is indicated on the package, then you need to adjust the oven as accurately as possible, otherwise it will either burn out or not bake to the end. My advice to you - if you bake - do not go far from the kitchen. And it’s better not to leave at all - 15-20 minutes, during which the plastic hardens, can be tolerated. Sit in front of the oven in the lotus position and follow the process. Anything can happen: the eyes, if they are plastic, sometimes “flow”, it happens that the doll falls and crumples, but you never know what else. Yes, and yet, it is better not to put the doll or its parts on the iron bottom of the oven, but put it on a ceramic stand or a regular plate.
Remember that during baking in the oven, the product becomes very “loose”, fragile, and therefore, under any part that is on weight, it is necessary to make a backup (foil roller, faience mug). You can take out the figurine only together with the stand and very carefully, and in no case do not touch it until it has cooled down! You don't have to take it out either. After the time has elapsed, turn off the oven and open the door. Hold the doll inside for another three minutes, so that there is no sharp temperature drop. And only then carefully, with a stand, into the fresh air.
“After heat treatment, clay can be washed, sawn, drilled, cut out of it, polished.” - says the instruction. Don't believe!!! It is forbidden. Dust wipe with a soft dry cloth, nothing more. Sawing - in no case, it is very fragile, everything will fall apart. Grinding baked plastics is possible, but it is better not to. There will be traces and scratches on the dark one, the light one is also not always well polished. But you can paint with almost anything - tempera, acrylics, gouache (only then it will need to be covered with some kind of fixative. You can use ordinary colorless nail polish, you can buy a special coating for plastic, about 100 rubles.) Nitroenamel, water emulsion, paint on glass - anything. BUT! If it is possible, and even necessary, to tint a doll with cosmetics BEFORE baking, then paints should be applied to the surface only after the plastic has hardened.
But back to the modeling process. The easiest and most pleasant thing is head sculpting, this process is loved by everyone without exception. With the body, things are much more complicated. First you need to form a skeleton - a wire frame. The wire can be taken aluminum or thick copper. The latter is even better, it is more durable. Now you need to figure out which parts of the doll's body will be naked and which ones will be hidden by clothes. As a rule, the arms (hands or up to the elbows) and legs (feet or up to the knees) are open to the eye. These parts will also need to be sculpted from plastic. Feet and hands can be sculpted without foil, because they are small, but for the shins and forearms, a base is needed. Do not forget to make holes in the limbs into which you can then insert the frame wire. The body, hips and shoulders can either be formed from cotton wool or padding polyester, wound around the frame and fixed with threads, or, if you want the doll to be rigid, stick around the wire with something self-hardening like papier-mâché (this will be discussed below). Elbows and knees must be left free, so that later the doll can be given desired pose. Just keep in mind that you can bend the wire three or four times, then it can break, so don't torture your little man too much.
When the doll is ready, remember to handle it with extreme care. It cannot be repaired, drop it - most likely to death. And one more unpleasant moment: her age is relatively short. A plastic doll "lives" for 30-40 years, then it begins to collapse. So no matter how carefully you handle it, your grandchildren will not get it. That's why I don't like baked plastics. And I love self-hardening plastics, which will be discussed in the next chapter.
Made of self-hardening plastic
This I love. Baked plastic restricts the freedom of the artist at least a little, but absolutely everything can be made from self-hardening plastic. Any size, any pose, any color. Contrary to popular belief, you can sculpt from it for as long as you like. Actually, sculpting in stages is even better - it is difficult to immediately give a large piece of plastic the desired shape.
So head. The skull can be made from styrofoam (pressed is better, but a regular one will do), but I prefer to make a whole doll from plastic, since it is relatively inexpensive. The easiest way is to first form the skull (not forgetting to leave a hole for the “spine”, because the head will still need to be fastened to the body), mount the eyes into it, outline the facial features and let it all dry. Then moisten the workpiece so that the surface is slightly sour, and add everything you need.
Body. Just like for baked plastics, a framework is needed here. If you want the flesh to stick well to the bones, then you need to wrap the wire with threads, and then, after moistening them, cover the frame with a thin layer of plastic and let it dry. And this skeleton can already be clothed with muscles from new layers of plastic, without fear that the structure will crack. The neck section of the wire should be somewhat longer than necessary, and 10-15 millimeters should be left free. We will put the head on this pin. You can fix it on your neck with superglue, and seal the joints with the same plastic and sand it with sandpaper.
You can make a "self-hardening" doll without a frame, I do this sometimes. For example, if the doll is without clothes, or I have thought out the pose one hundred percent. The head, body, arms and legs in this case are molded separately, and then assembled on superglue. The joints are sealed with plastic and polished. An amateur method, personally invented by me. I just don't like wire.
That's all. Guys, I came up with all this on my own, no one taught me anything. And if I could do it, you can too. And outdo me ten more times. Forward! Good luck and creative success!
The original article is on the website
Among needleworkers, such material as plastic is gaining popularity. For modeling dolls, flowers, jewelry, crafts with children and so on - you can use this material everywhere. We invite you to take a closer look at it.
What is molding plastic?
With your own hands you can make crafts from different materials A: wood, cloth, clay, salt dough, wire, beads and so on. For modeling today are the most popular plasticine, salty dough and plastic.
Plastic is, in other words, a very convenient material for modeling. The plastic dries up and becomes as strong as plastic. When first used, it resembles a very elastic dough or plasticine. You can make toys, crafts, jewelry, decor elements and much more from it. Dry the finished craft in the air or in the oven.
The advantages of plastic:
- dries quickly;
- easy to work with;
- does not stain hands;
- does not soften during long work;
- the finished product does not lose shape over time;
- rich color variety;
- product can be dyed.
Where to get plastic?
There are many places where you can buy plastic for sculpting:
- departments for creativity in ordinary stores;
- children's shops;
- online shopping for creativity;
- specialized shops for creativity.
Do-it-yourself plastic for modeling is sold in different shades, but it is not cheap.
We do plastic surgery ourselves
If you do not want to go to the store, then we offer you an alternative option.
Plastic at home is made as follows:
- To get approximately 350 grams of material at the output, you need to take 250 grams (1 cup) of PVA glue, 250 grams cornstarch(if you do not need a snow-white color, then you can use ordinary starch), one tablespoon of petroleum jelly and hand cream (the most common low-fat and silicone-free), two tablespoons of lemon juice.
- From the dishes and tools, take a bowl in which the ingredients will be kneaded, a stirring spoon, a substrate, a piece of cling film or a bag, a piece of cloth that absorbs moisture well, a plastic spatula.
- Pour all the starch into a bowl and pour in the glue with petroleum jelly.
- When the ingredients are thoroughly mixed, add lemon juice.
- Set the microwave to maximum power and put a bowl in it for 30 seconds. Then move everything and turn on the stove again for half a minute. You can use a gas stove. Then stir the mass until thickened over low heat.
- Lubricate the substrate with hand cream and put the mass on it, after removing the upper frozen ball. It needs to be thrown away.
- Knead the mass as if you were working with dough. Knead for five minutes until the piece becomes elastic. Help yourself with a spatula. With its help, pieces are easily scraped off the substrate.
- Roll a piece of plastic into a sausage and place it on a cloth to remove excess moisture. Put everything in the refrigerator, as the material will harden in the air.
- After a while, remove the fabric and wrap it in a film or bag.
Do-it-yourself plastic for modeling is ready!
If you want to make the material multi-colored, then divide the dough into portions and add the desired shade of oil paints, fabric or food coloring to each.
simple plastic flowers
There are many types of flowers that a beginner in plastic modeling can make. For example, violets, cornflowers, peonies, daisies, roses and so on.
Basically, sculpting flowers from plastic is as follows:
- Very small balls are rolled.
- Petals are made from them.
- Then the petals are shaped.
- The petals are folded together.
- The product is baked.
You can add leaves and stems if you like.
Making dolls
Plastic for sculpting dolls should have a snow-white color or a slightly pinkish tint.
Work features:
- To make a doll, first form all the components from pieces of foil: legs, arms, body, head.
- Then roll out the plastic and stick around the foil parts with cakes.
- You can stick around the foil completely, bake the doll, and then leave it like that. And you can divide the parts in half, pull out the foil, and then glue the parts.
- Then all the parts are connected to each other and the doll is painted.
The second way to make a plastic doll:
- Make a frame for the doll out of wire.
- Make a foil ball on top.
- Cover the foil with plastic and form the head.
- Then make arms and legs.
- At the end, fashion the body.
- Sculpt all the details: face, fingers and so on.
- Bake the doll.
- Not to cook every time new portion plastics, you can stock up. The material can be stored for a long time in a tightly closed glass jar or plastic container in the refrigerator. When you want to mold something, then cut off from large stock a small piece and send the rest back.
- It is best to use a plastic board or silicone mat as a substrate. Then the plastic for modeling with your own hands will not stick.
- At the end of sculpting, all tools and the substrate must be thoroughly cleaned so that the plastic remains do not dry out and migrate to a new product next time.
- If the craft consists of several parts that need to be connected to each other, then it is best to use ordinary PVA glue for this.
- As additional tools and materials, as your plastic products become more complex, you may need molds (plastic or silicone), sticks (ice cream, lollipop, and so on), pen caps, rulers, rolling pins and much more.
