Underfloor heating from hot water in a city apartment - the contour of the underfloor heating in the bathroom. Underfloor heating due to hot water is legal. Do-it-yourself installation of a water-heated floor in the bathroom

Do you want to install underfloor heating from central heating? This is real! Let's take a look at all the points regarding the installation of such floors in apartments with central heating. In principle, it is allowed to use water floor heating where the heating circuit is carried out with a special wiring. Where there is one main heating medium in the whole apartment, which is distributed throughout all rooms and large sizes return main pipeline. Accordingly, if you have installed heat metering devices, then you can safely count on the installation of warm water floors in your apartment.

Warm water floor scheme

The only thing to remember is that a sufficient amount of heat was completely allocated to the entire apartment. Otherwise, a situation may arise when the energy consumption will be more than expected, which can significantly disrupt the balance of heat exchange between neighboring apartments. But such a destabilization of the balance can be eliminated by the regulators, which, in turn, forces the underfloor heating system from central heating to consume a metered amount of water volume.

When is it forbidden to install warm floors in an apartment?

It is forbidden to install underfloor heating from heating, if you thereby lead to the destabilization of the warm and hydraulic balance between neighboring apartments on a common heating riser. In other words, this is when each room has a separate heating riser.

If it is so that it is strictly forbidden to install warm water floors, as this can lead to the fact that your warm water floor connected to this riser is able to take off the temperature so much that it will significantly reduce the heat that passes to other apartments using this riser. But, practically and theoretically, water heated floors can be installed anywhere and anywhere, the main thing is that the balance of the water flow is not disturbed, and the conditions for dosing the heat consumption are observed.

Installation schemes for underfloor heating, where its use is prohibited

Let's take a little look at those schemes, thanks to which they install underfloor heating directly in the apartment.

Cheap and angry

Here we will consider the option of installing underfloor heating, where it is forbidden to install water underfloor heating. To use this scheme, it is necessary to use a very weak pump (Flow rate - 5-10 l / min, pipeline - 16mm, pipeline length - no more than 70 meters). This scheme has one drawback - such floors are practically not regulated. Also, if there is a small heat loss on the floor, then in the end you can get very cooled radiators.

Balancing adjustment circuit

In the installation diagram of a warm water floor, a balancing tap is shown, due to which the flow rate in the water heated floor is reduced, which means that the temperature of these floors can be reduced. In order to reduce the temperature of the underfloor heating water, you need to open the balancing valve to the appropriate pass.

Reducing the effect of heat consumption

"K2" - a three-way valve with a temperature-sensitive mechanism. It gives a constantly unchanging temperature at point "3". In other words, if your water-based floor heating consumes a large number of energy, then this creates a high probability of causing the arrival of almost cold water in the riser. That, in turn, can cool the radiators down the riser in the neighboring apartments.

Scheme of a warm water floor with a three-way valve

This three-way valve can be purchased at specialized plumbing supply stores. It is called: "Mechanical three-way mixing valve for water supply with a thermostat ". That is, the presented valve is necessary for us in automatic mode, in order to regulate temperature regime flow hot water in the contour of the warm water floor of the apartment.

Three-way valve

In the presented diagram, you need to adjust the tap so that at point "3" there is a warm, very high temperature. But if the warm floor from the central heating is very weakly heated, you can lower the temperature of the valve, thereby increasing the heat loss in the warm field. Here, to adjust the floor temperature, you can use the balancing valves "K1" and "K2". If it suddenly turns out that the radiator begins to cool below the set temperature, then the temperature will not pass into your warm floor. The circulation in the warm floor will simply stop.

Scheme for discerning consumers

К1 "- bypass balancing valve. "K2" and "K3" are differently connected three-way valves. The "KZ" valve is used to stabilize the temperature of the underfloor heating from the central heating by means of the return temperature from the circuit. It is this scheme that makes it possible to make the so-called "climate control". If it gets hot in your room, it will reduce the flow of hot water in the underfloor heating circuit, accordingly reducing the release of heat energy into the room. The warmer it is in the room, the faster the hot water passes along the circuit and cools less and reaches the thermosensitive element of the three-way valve, which, in turn, does not allow liquid to flow at a very significant rate.

The structure of the bypass balancing unit

The "K1" valve is required to operate in a closed circuit of the warm water floor of your apartment. Such a valve can reduce or completely close the flow of the circuit so that it can cause very favorable performance for the pump being used. Therefore, this valve is necessary in order to balance the flow for the pump. It is worth remembering that the pump is operated on a closed circuit, which can cause it to overheat, and therefore increase the power consumption, and the "K1" valve is in fact a regulator of the pressure of hot water in the circuit. The higher the pressure of hot water, the faster it will go along the entire contour of the underfloor heating.

Underfloor heating installation schemes, where its use is permitted

Now we will consider the option that must be used in apartments where it is allowed to use such heating, the water heat-insulated floor of which will become the main source of heat.

A balancing valve or flow regulator must be installed at the inlet of the mixing unit. Of course, better than the second option. Such a valve will regulate the required energy consumption, and therefore the room temperature. An auto-valve can also be supplied to stabilize the differential working pressure, which is also able to stabilize the flow. Such heating with a warm water floor is able to provide heat to the entire apartment, provided it correct installation and subsequent operation.

The consumption of hot water for hot water heating, the underfloor heating of which is the main source of energy, should be so minimal as not to increase the standardized water consumption that was used before the installation of the underfloor heating system.

If you increase this expense, then the relevant services will immediately know about it. It is worth using the special schemes described above and not increasing the flow rate of the coolant, as this can spoil the normalized flow of hot water in the radiators of your neighbors.

Underfloor heating from central heating, water heating at home

Underfloor heating from central heating. Various schemes for connecting a warm floor to a central heating system. Description of the main units.

Warm floor from hot water in the apartment

For a bathroom, a liquid underfloor heating is the best option. Conduct warm floor from hot water supply in the bathroom, there are several ways: connect to a heating riser or to a heated towel rail if, of course, it functions from the heating system. The same principle applies to other types of premises.

Water floor: pros and cons

The most basic drawback that prompts to abandon liquid heating is that a permit is required for a water-heated floor in an apartment, and this is also a laborious process that requires duplication and a large consumption of material (but then these costs justify themselves). However, if the work is done by a team experienced craftsmen, then they solve all these issues independently, including obtaining permission. And trusting the conduct of communications to private dubious persons is dangerous in every sense.

TO negative side it should be attributed to the fact that there is a high probability of pipe leakage. The Colmart online store offers only high-quality goods made in Italy, Austria, Germany, which exclude such problems. All products are provided with a manufacturer's warranty.

Water heating benefits

As for the advantages, they significantly exceed their disadvantages. The liquid principle of heating is the most profitable in comparison with other types, even if a warm floor is installed in an apartment with individual heating.

Warm floor from hot water in an apartment - comfort, warmth, savings

Warm floor from hot water in an apartment - comfort, warmth, savings. Buy components for underfloor heating in the online store Ukraine, Kiev, Kharkov - colmart.com.ua

How to make a warm water floor yourself and without problems

Underfloor heating is ideal for heating a room, as it distributes heat evenly throughout the room. They can be used as the main source of heat in the house, and as an additional one.

There are two types of underfloor heating: water and electric. The first ones are heated due to the circulation of hot water, the second ones work as heating electrical appliances. In this article we will look at how to make a water heat-insulated floor.

In which rooms can it be installed?

Water heat-insulated floor

Installation of underfloor heating can be done in any room, but it must be taken into account that any underfloor heating system dries the air, therefore, residents will not feel comfortable in rooms with poor ventilation.

This problem can be easily solved with a humidifier, but it is still not recommended to install them in bedrooms, because fresh and cool air is needed for normal sleep. Warm floors are great for bathrooms and kitchens, as there is enough ventilation and humidity.

Room preparation

In the room where the installation is planned, the old floor covering is removed.

It should be remembered that when all the work is completed, the floor level will rise by 5-7 centimeters, so that the door frames will also need to be raised. In the bathroom, an old screed is being disassembled, under which, most likely, there will be a filler (expanded clay, for example).

When making a new fill, experts advise making it a couple of centimeters lower than the general floor level. To do this, you can make a smooth transition or step.

This is done with the purpose that in case of flooding the bath, water will not enter other rooms in the apartment. If there is waterproofing in the bathroom, then it may not be removed, but it is better to put it in bags for the duration of the work.

Preparation of risers for installation of floors

If you plan to connect a warm floor to central heating, then the entire riser does not need to be changed, since they rarely break. However, it is better to replace the hot water riser with polypropylene pipes, because they are not subject to corrosion.

From the plumbers who are maintaining your home, you need to find out what kind of riser spill. If the spill is top, then tap 2 will be the inlet warm water, and the tap has 3 outlet. For a bottom spill, the placement is reversed.

Laying waterproofing

Water flows through the pipes in the underfloor heating system, therefore, in theory, a leak may occur. Naturally, all manufacturers claim that their products are of high quality and durable, but no one is immune from possible factory defects.

In this regard, waterproofing is done.

On the market there are different kinds waterproofing, but it is best to use linokorm insulation or the like for simplicity.

Connecting underfloor heating

The insulation is overlapped by 10 centimeters, and the seams are soldered with a blowtorch or a hair dryer. On the walls, it should go above the level of the warm floor. It is recommended to prime the bottom of the wall for better soldering.

Filling the rough screed

If the floor covering in the apartment lies directly on the floor slabs, or the future floor will not be higher than 10 centimeters above the level of the slabs, then you will need to make a rough screed.

With the help of a level, markings are made around the perimeter of the room. After that, the most high point slabs and from it the level of the rough screed is marked.

The level should be 7 centimeters lower than the finished floor. This level depends on the diameter of the pipes. So, if the diameter is 16 millimeters, then the screed is made by 5 centimeters, the diameter is 25 millimeters - the screed is at least 7 centimeters.

Basically, a rough screed is made from a mixture of expanded clay and cement-based mortar. If the dimensions of the room are not large, then it is not necessary to install beacons, and they are guided by the marks on the walls. The mixture is leveled by a long rule. With large areas of the premises, beacons still have to be installed.

Note! Any object of sufficient length can be used to level the mixture.

Experience shows that it is quite difficult to mix the solution and expanded clay. Expanded clay dust, mixing with the solution, makes it less durable, and a large amount of such a solution will be needed for a normal screed.

In this regard, it is better to do a rough screed in another way.

Piles of solution are poured and paint beacons are placed on them. If the distance from the base slabs to the floor is large, then heaps can be poured onto the previously laid bricks. Further, below the level of the lighthouses, expanded clay is poured and leveled. After that, the welded mesh is laid down and the screed is poured.

Pipe laying

Filling the contours with concrete

Before laying the pipes, a flooring is made of foil insulation, which acts as a heat shield. The joints of the sheets are glued together with aluminum tape. The edges of the insulation should extend 4 centimeters to the walls.

Bending of pipes is carried out by a spring into which pipes are inserted. However, this should be done carefully, since bending the pipes is strictly prohibited. The pipes are attached to the screed with special plastic fasteners.

Fittings are put on the pipe leads, and the connection is lubricated with a sealant that can withstand temperatures up to 95 degrees Celsius. Further, with special collapsible joints, the fittings are attached to the risers. All threaded connections are assembled on flax, as this is the most durable material.

Test run of the system

After the sealant has dried, carry out a test run of the underfloor heating. Use a Mayevsky tap to remove air from the system. If the system is powered from a riser, then use a hot water tap.

This is done in the following sequence: valves 1 and 2 are opened, and valve 3 is closed. Next, the hot water tap is closed and time is given for it to glass. After that, the first tap closes and the third opens.

Thus, the system is kept under pressure for several days to check the strength of all connections and that there are no leaks anywhere. After the test run, the entire system is turned off, the taps are turned to reverse order, and time is given for it to cool down.

Pouring a fine screed

The finishing screed is poured in the same way as the rough one: a masonry mesh is laid down, beacons are placed, and pouring is performed. If a worm screed was made, then the masonry mesh does not need to be laid. When preparing the screed, make sure that its surface is flat.

After the screed has dried, remove any unevenness on the surface with a construction float. Then let the screed dry completely.

Note! A well-dried screed becomes light gray in color.

Conclusion

In order not to depend on utilities, connect the system to a hot water riser. The ball valve is used to prevent mixing of industrial and drinking water.

How to make a water-heated floor: connection diagram

How to make a warm water floor yourself? What you should pay attention to? Tips, recommendations, technologies

Which warm floors are better, water or electric - 2 factors of choice.

What do you need to know?

First of all, decide on the type of underfloor heating. They can be of two types:

Where to use which and why?

Warm floors as the main and additional view heating is most often used:

• in a country cottage or cottage

• in the apartment multi-storey building

In a private house, you are your own boss and are free to choose any type, option and any heating scheme. There are no prohibitions here. But nuances and restrictions are already appearing in the apartment.

In the apartment, you can take it from two sources:

The radiator heating system is inconvenient for two factors:

Accordingly, your warm floors will be idle for most of the year.

First, it's not cheap. And secondly, it takes up significant space in the room.

In theory, it is possible to connect, but it is necessary to provide a sufficiently low temperature for underfloor heating. A direct connection will be accompanied by temperatures of 70 degrees and above, and this will simply overheat the flooring.

You will not be able to legally formalize your connection in any instances. And if you discover such a fact during the check, you can easily run into a fine. Plus they will force to dismantle everything at their own expense.

Therefore, most competent specialists do not recommend installing water-heated floors in an apartment building:

• heating systems are inconvenient

• from DHW it is impossible

You can, of course, come up with an autonomous container with water, but do not forget that the rules prohibit placing "wet zones" above the living quarters of neighbors. A warm water floor will be considered such a zone. Unless you live on the ground floor.

There remains only the option with electric underfloor heating.

But if you have a private house, then there is already a wider choice. You can dwell on both electric heating and hot water. But which one is better to choose?

Many people still in such a situation make their choice in favor of water-heated floors. This is explained by the fact that people are afraid of the influence of electromagnetic radiation on the body, which supposedly has electric warm floors.

Meanwhile, all manufacturers have long been required to have certificates and papers confirming the safety of their products. And all heating cables are made shielded.

Considering how many WiFi, GSM and other networks are around us, e-floors are not the biggest evil. However, most of this does not convince them that they are right.

In their opinion, this may also work for the bathroom, but if this is the main heating in all rooms, then any headaches or illnesses will be automatically recorded about electric warm floors.

Well, the second important point is the absolute maintainability of water floors anywhere. Moreover, you can make such repairs yourself, at home.

In case of damage to the heating cable of the electric mat, you will either have to strip off the entire tile and change it entirely, or call specialists with equipment for burning, and search for a short circuit with a thermal imager, followed by installation of couplings.

Moreover, the search for some accidents, even for them, can cause certain insoluble difficulties.

Therefore, safety and maintainability are two factors that make the choice for many in favor of water underfloor heating as the main source of heating. The electric option remains only as an additional source of heat.

But here are the factors that can scare away from water heated floors:

You need a boiler, a mixing unit, a manifold and much more, without which electric heating can easily do.

• constant revision work

Replacing water, limescale on heating elements, pump breakdowns, leaks from poor-quality pipes. In short, many water floor installers earn significantly more money, not only for installation, but also for further maintenance.

Naturally, it is profitable for them to convince their clients about the dangers of electricity and underfloor heating based on them.

Personally, your choice should depend on two variables:

• installation budget and required follow-up maintenance

If there are no problems with this, then go ahead to the store behind the water floors.

• lack of prejudice and belief in modern technology

If this is about you, then the electric underfloor heating is exactly what you need.

The two most popular varieties are:

Infrared film

What to look for when choosing an infrared film?

It is a sheet with soldered copper conductors... Between them, with a very small gap, current carbon paths are laid, which are the heating element.

Look at your contacts first. They must be soldered.

If they are made with pistons, such a connection is extremely unreliable. Excessive heating will occur here, creating a potential fire site.

The film acts as a separator between the base of the warm floor and the decorative coating. Therefore, it cannot be laid where the screed will be poured.

It will not fit under the tiles. But it fits perfectly:

• under the carpet

• linoleum

If you lay a heating cable under the same materials, then due to the distance between the turns (laying step) you will clearly feel the border of heat and cold - a thermal zebra.

The film heats the entire surface evenly. True, some are afraid that with such heating of the laminate, harmful substances will be released from it. Therefore, you need to buy a special product labeled "for warm floors".

This is not true. The sun heats up the laminate much more when it shines directly through the window. And nothing harmful is emitted at the same time.

There are also concerns about dry air and dust, which warm floors inevitably lift up. It all depends not on the heating operation mode, the presence or complete absence of radiators in the rooms, but on the ventilation.

Provide a regular supply fresh air and there won't be any problems. And if you block up all the windows, then you will suffocate with the central heating batteries.

Approximate calculation of electricity consumption when heating a house with heated film floors:

Where is the best place to use the heating cable? Where you will have a minimum screed, or tiles with glue - i.e. kitchen and bathroom.

As a rule, after the completion of the work by the builders, there can no longer be any talk of a full-fledged screed. The maximum is 5-6cm.

If even less, then the choice is unambiguous - only the heating mat. It can be applied directly to the tile adhesive.

The disadvantage of an electric underfloor heating can be attributed to the fact that in addition to your room, you will also warm up the ceiling from below. At your own expense, you will also heat your neighbors.

You have a warm floor, they have a warm ceiling.

Comparison table of the effectiveness of heating cable and infrared film floors:

Compare current prices of warm floors with heating cables or mats and infrared films.

A cake with water floors should ideally look like this:

• pipes with a coolant are mounted on this surface

• then there is an adhesive layer in the cake and a tile or other coating

The approximate thickness of the entire slab is 130-140mm. Under this condition, all the heat will be spent on your room, and not go downstairs.

Don't waste your money. In addition, without reinforcement of the thin screed, as a result of the destruction of the foil insulation, subsidence and cracking of the floor covering can occur.

The best solution is to use extruded polystyrene foam with a density of 35 kg / m3 or multi-foil as insulation.

The base of the multifoil is air pockets in the form of pills or pimples. They are very durable and you won't be able to crush them just like that.

You can easily walk on them for as long as you like. Moreover, the aluminum coating is applied with back side, i.e. it is not possible to damage and corrode it with a screed.

2 Be sure to apply edge insulation.

This is a kind of damper that is laid along the perimeter of the slab with a warm floor. It is necessary to compensate for the expansion of the screed, which inevitably occurs when it is heated.

If this is not done, the concrete screed will rest against the walls and it will have two options, either to break these walls themselves, or to break itself. When pouring, the edge of the damper film should be higher than the screed, then the excess is cut off.

3 If you have a large pouring area (more than 20m2), it must be separated with a compensation tape.

Since all the expansion during heating of such a concrete layer, flanging alone will not be able to compensate.

4 The coil of a warm water floor should be made of a single piece of pipe, without connections.

5 Never use compression fittings, i.e. those connections where there are nuts and threads.

None of this should get into your screed.

6 If the customer and the contractor are poorly versed in the preparation of solutions, then the recommended height of a full-fledged screed should be 85mm or 7cm from the upper wall of the heating element.

Such a thickness of concrete will help save you from cracking, even with not very high-quality cement.

In addition, 85mm helps against striping (thermal zebra). And the last thing is the inertia of such a screed.

If your energy carrier is electricity, you can “disperse” the warm floor at a cheaper rate at night hours and not turn on the boiler all day. The stored heat should be enough until the evening.

This heating mode is about 3 times cheaper than usual.

7 Do not save money and add a special plasticizer for warm floors to the screed.

Ultimately, you want a concrete that can withstand thermal deformations with ease.

8 Reinforcement is done as a last resort.

First of all, when you are forced to fill in a screed of only 50-60mm instead of 85mm. But this should be avoided whenever possible.

9 It is not necessary to cut any holes in the substrate to the concrete base, supposedly for a good bond.

Even if this coupling occurs, everything will come off the first time the plate is heated. The heated floor slab, figuratively speaking, should "float" without connection with the base and with the walls.

10 Do not pour mortar with empty floor pipes.

The system must be filled and the pressure must be 3 bar. This is primarily due to the need to preserve the geometry and shape of the pipe. No pressure inside, easy to crush.

Water or electric underfloor heating - 10 mistakes and installation rules

Rules for installing water and electric floor heating. Heating cable and film - efficiency comparison. Is electrical magnetic radiation from underfloor heating safe? Screed thickness 85mm, why?

Warm floors water wiring diagrams in the apartment

The popularity of heating systems organized on modern principle heating of the floor surface is constantly increasing. In many countries, this technology has already become prevalent, and "warm floors", displacing the usual radiator schemes, are included in the projects of multi-storey buildings and are installed immediately, as the building is being erected. This is explained by the advantages of such heating in terms of creating the most comfortable conditions for living or working people - there is uniform heating from the bottom up with an optimal temperature distribution and without creating pronounced horizontal movements of air masses.

Warm floors water wiring diagrams in the apartment

Such obvious advantages of such a heating system make many owners of houses and city apartments think - is it worth it to switch to it? By revising possible options very often, electric underfloor heating is treated with some prejudice, which is explained by the high cost of electricity, and a water "warm floor" will clearly win in terms of economic operation. This is complemented by the fact that water heating pipes have already been laid in the apartment, and it is very tempting to simply connect floor heating circuits to them. Probably, this explains the fact that in the top search queries on the Internet on heating topics, there is always such as "underfloor heating, water wiring diagrams in the apartment."

However, you need to immediately warn the apartment owner who wants to switch to water floor heating - not everything is so simple. The system itself is quite complex and requires large-scale work. And in the conditions of multi-storey buildings, the number of obstacles on the way to the successful implementation of such a project increases many times over. Moreover, these problems are very versatile - both of a technological nature and of an administrative nature.

Nevertheless, subject to certain conditions, such an opportunity exists. But first, perhaps, one should get acquainted with the difficulties that will inevitably have to be overcome. It is possible that, having seen the prospect and assessing the scale of the activities that will need to be done, some apartment owners will still decide to opt for an easier-to-install and safe operation electric "warm floor" system.

Do I need to coordinate the project with utilities?

In the event that the owner of the apartment intends to connect his system of water "warm floor" to the existing central heating system, he will almost certainly face a number of administrative problems.

Heating a multi-storey building is a complex ramified system, which was calculated in advance by specialists, and its possibilities are not limitless. When designing it, the power of the boiler room or local heat supply point, the diameters and length of the pipelines, the degree of their insulation, the required pressure and temperature of the coolant, the scheme of the apartment wiring and the connection of radiators, and many other criteria were taken into account. Self-introduction of any changes in the operation of this system can lead to imbalances, a decrease in overall efficiency.

It is clear that the design is always carried out with the necessary technological reserve, and the connection of one or two underfloor heating circuits, of course, will hardly be noticeable on the scale of the system. But, firstly, there are a lot of people who are sorry to embed this type of heating, most likely. And secondly, what is hardly noticeable in the volume of the entire local system may well be felt on the scale of an entrance or a specific riser. The connection of additional circuits, which usually have a very considerable length, can result in a drop in the temperature of the coolant in the radiators of neighbors. Surely, this will end with complaints about the work of the thermal power industry, and those, in search of a reason, will surely find it, and unauthorized connection will lead to serious administrative measures.

There is only one way out - to go through the procedure of agreement with management company or with heat suppliers. But whether they will give such permission is a big question.

In this case, the owners of apartments located at the very end of the heating riser are in an advantageous position. For example, with a lower supply, this will become the upper floor, and if the coolant is supplied from the top in the riser (this happens more often), then residents of apartments on the first floor will most likely be able to obtain permission. The extraction of thermal energy for floor heating will no longer affect the radiators of the neighbors in the riser.

But this, again, does not mean at all that no other technical conditions will be put forward by the utilities. So, almost certainly from their side there will be a demand for the mandatory installation of an individual metering device for consumed heat.

When agreeing on the connection, you will need to install an individual metering device for consumed heat energy

A proposal may come from utilities to organize their heating system on a semi-autonomous principle. In this variant, the heat carrier from the central system will not be used for circulation through the pipes of the "warm floor" - the circuit is completely closed. And the transfer of heat energy received from the boiler room. It takes place through a special device - a heat exchanger installed on the supply pipe.

Heat extraction can also take place through a heat exchanger

Of course, you will have to install optional equipment to organize the circulation of the coolant and prevent emergencies. In addition, such a scheme also does not relieve the owners of the need to purchase and install a metering device for consumed thermal energy.

Many problems can be avoided if you decide to completely transfer your apartment to autonomous heating. A similar trend is gaining popularity - the owners refuse heating and hot water services and install their own electric or gas boiler.

More and more owners of city apartments are trying to switch to full autonomy in matters of heating and hot water supply

Here, too, coordination with housing maintenance companies is required, but it is already of a somewhat different kind. But the owner autonomous system gets freedom in choosing the number and type of radiators, floor heating circuits, convectors, etc. Heat metering devices in this option will not be required - only the costs of the energy carrier - gas or electricity - will be paid.

This is not to say that the problems of apartment owners will end there - they will face a lot of difficulties of a technological nature. But in all they can be solved in one way or another.

The key issue is laying "warm floor" pipes in a city apartment

If the administrative stage has been successfully passed, permission to connect has been received, or full autonomy of the heating and hot water supply system is ensured, then it is time to move on to a phased solution of the problems of laying the contours of the "warm floor". Here it is necessary to determine the possible height of the floor level rise, with the method of closing the contours, so as not to exceed permissible load on interfloor floors. A very important point is high-quality thermal insulation of the created structure, reliability and durability of pipes and their connections. And, of course, at this stage you have to figure out the optimal laying scheme, the length of the contours, the step of their laying.

Possible obstacles - raising the floor level and making the structure heavier

The first thing that needs to be done is to assess how much the floor level in the apartment will rise after the installation of the "warm floor", and whether it is possible to specific conditions allow it. And the increase in thickness is inevitable, and it consists of three factors.

An approximate diagram of a water "warm floor" under the screed

• No one wants to pay money for anything, and therefore they will have to provide for a thermal insulation barrier (item 1), which does not allow heat to be spent practically in vain for heating the reinforced concrete slabs of the interfloor overlap.

If the premises are located above another heated apartment, then usually a layer of thermal insulation of 25 ÷ 30 mm of expanded polystyrene is sufficient. Under the most favorable circumstances, sometimes they are even limited to roll foil insulation (made of foamed polyethylene) with a thickness of about 5 mm. But if a cold basement or an uninsulated basement is located below, then you will have to use a layer of thermal insulation of 50 mm, or even more.

• The efficiency of the "warm floor" operation is ensured by pouring a screed with a thickness of at least 50 mm (pos. 2). A layer of concrete not only closes the pipes of the contours (pos. 3), but also becomes an accumulating and evenly distributing heat element of the entire system.

But not only will the screed raise the floor level by another 50 mm. The loads on the floor slab increase significantly, and it is imperative to consult whether this is permissible in a house of a particular series.

• And, finally, the thickness of the finishing floor covering itself (pos. 4) cannot be discounted. It is, of course, incomparable with the thickness of the screed, but it can also add 10 ÷ 15 millimeters, or even more, especially if a thick ceramic tile is laid on a layer of glue.

Some problems can be avoided by applying the "warm floor" installation method without concrete screed. In this case, to increase heat transfer, special metal plates with channels for pipe laying are used.

Heat exchanger plate with channel for pipe laying

Such plates can be placed in special modules (wooden or made of wood composite), in insulation mats of a special design, or you can make a wooden floor structure on logs, as shown in the figure:

Water "warm floor" on a wooden base without screed

Between the joists installed on the base base of the floor and aligned horizontally (pos. 1), a thermal insulation material (pos. 2) is laid. Boards are stuffed on top (pos. 3) with a step that ensures the laying of heat-exchange metal plates (pos. 4). The pipes of the “warm floor” contour (pos. 5) are placed in the channels of the plates, and then the entire structure is closed from above with sheets of plywood, OSB, drywall, etc. (pos. 6) - this will become the basis for laying the topcoat.

This method of laying is somewhat inferior to the screed in terms of heat transfer efficiency. However, in this way you can gain precious millimeters of height and prevent excessive loads on the floor.

But in any case, raising the floor level cannot be avoided. Hence, one should estimate in advance possible solutions and make the right choice.

Now let's go through the main components for laying the "warm floor" contour - insulation mats and the pipes themselves.

The choice of insulation mats

• As already mentioned, practically ideal conditions(the building itself and the floors in particular already have highly efficient insulation, and a well-heated room is located below) roll materials, for example, "penofol", can be used.

A roll of foil-clad insulation based on foamed polyethylene

In this case, the contour can be laid by tying pipe loops to a pre-laid reinforcing metal stack, or using special mounting rails with grooves for pipes.

• If a better insulation is required, then foam polystyrene mats (best of all - extrusion) are used.

Expanded polystyrene foam mat with marked marking lines

Such insulation can be in the form of separate plates, but it is better to purchase special mats that are laid out like "accordion" or "tractor caterpillar". Very often, such products have a grid applied, which will greatly facilitate the process of marking and laying out the contour. The foil surface will provide heat reflection towards the room, increasing the overall efficiency of thermal insulation.

Fixing the pipe to the mounting rail and with a plastic clamp

Fixation of pipes to such mats can also be carried out to a reinforcing mesh or using mounting rails, or special clamps with harpoon tips are used, which reliably hold the pipe in a given place.

• However, the best, albeit not cheap, solution would be to purchase special profile mats made of expanded polystyrene for a water "warm floor". The protrusions-bosses located on their surface allow you to quickly and reliably fix the contour loops without the use of any additional accessories.

Profile mat with lugs and polymer coating

The optimal choice is polymer-coated profile mats with locking protrusions (shown by arrows in the figure). When laid, a solid surface is obtained, which becomes an excellent waterproofing. Thus, three problems are solved at once - insulation, creation of a waterproofing barrier and simplification of the pipe-laying process. In addition, there is no need for additional reinforcement of the screed - the protruding bosses themselves perform this role.

Heat transfer plates fit well in the profile mat

By the way, such mats can be used even if the decision is made to do without the screed. Heat transfer plates are installed between the bosses, and the circuit pipes are already cut into them.

The choice of pipes for the "warm floor"

There should be no simplifications in this matter - the circuits are mounted for a long time, hidden by a screed and an external coating, that is, it is necessary to have a guarantee of the safety and tightness of pipes and their connections. Any, even a minor leak can lead to catastrophic consequences and large-scale repairs with the obligatory opening of the floor.

What are the requirements for pipe circuits:

• Suture pipes are not allowed.
• It is forbidden to place pipe connections in the thickness of the floor - the circuit must be made from one solid coil. There are, however, exceptions - this will be discussed below.
• Resistance to corrosion, to possible aggressive chemical attack of the heat carrier, to the formation of scale or lime deposits on the inner walls. Ideally - pipes should also resist oxygen diffusion - many modern models provide for this function.
• Thermal and mechanical strength margin. The pipe material should not be afraid of high temperatures of the coolant and withstand a pressure of at least 8 ÷ 10 atmospheres.
• The pipes must have a smooth inner surface - to reduce the hydraulic resistance of the circuit and so that the flow of the coolant through them is not accompanied by noise.

Based on the specified criteria, steel pipes VGP are immediately excluded - they are seam, and they cannot be applied without creating joints.

Surely, the temptation is great to use polypropylene pipes, since they are inexpensive, easy to install. However, in our case, they cannot be used. First, they have a large coefficient of linear expansion when heated. And secondly, the assembly of the circuit will require a very large number welded joints... Although high-quality welded polypropylene joints are highly reliable, narrowing is possible in these places conditional pass, accumulations of solid precipitation, and the numerous rectangular turns themselves lead to a sharp increase in hydraulic resistance, which is unacceptable in the contours of a warm floor.

So, the choice can be made from the following types of pipes:

Special processing of polyethylene, which has a linear molecular structure, creates numerous cross-links (“crosslinking”, which will give the material completely new qualities. Pipes made of such cross-linked polyethylene are distinguished by their flexibility and strength, they can easily withstand temperature extremes, are not afraid of freezing.

Coil of pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene PE-Xa

The best performance indicators are for the material marked with PE-Xa - the degree of crosslinking is the highest, up to 90%. And if they are also supplemented with a special layer that excludes oxygen diffusion, then this is even better.

In addition, it is possible to purchase pipes from the most innovative polymer - PE - RT, in which the positive advantages of cross-linked polyethylene, especially in terms of thermal resistance, are expressed even more deeply.

As if specially created for a "warm floor" - light, have good heat transfer, allow you to lay complex contours with bends (subject to technology). However, when choosing them, you should be careful - there are too many low-quality goods on the market that do not withstand high temperatures and pressure surges.

In addition, the aluminum layer can be very unstable to oxygen corrosion, and this leads to pipe delamination and loss of its qualities. Therefore, if one chooses metal plastic pipes, then one should pay attention to the material of manufacture of the outer and inner layers, and, preferably, to the presence of an oxygen barrier.

Always pay attention to the quality of the multilayer pipe

The best option is seen as a pipe with PE-X-polyethylene outside and inside, and a layer of aluminum, welded using a special technology.

• Copper pipes

In terms of the degree of heat transfer and the durability of operation, such pipes probably have no rivals.

Layed copper pipe contour

The plasticity of the metal allows you to make contours of any level of complexity. Copper is not afraid of corrosion, water hammer, critical temperatures. The only thing that stops its massive use is the very high price.

Another modern approach is the use of corrugated stainless pipes. Their high flexibility is an excellent quality for laying the contour, and their corrosion resistance, also reinforced by an internal polymer coating, guarantees a long service life.

Modern corrugated stainless steel pipes show themselves well

In addition, this is the only exception to the rule that allows you to make butt joints under the floor surface - this is ensured by the highest reliability of standard fittings. And, despite the fact that the maximum length in the bay is 50 m, they can be safely used for laying and longer contours.

The only drawback in using such material is the very high price.

We decide on the scheme for laying the contour

In order for the water "warm floor" in the apartment to be really effective, it is necessary to follow certain rules for laying its contours.

• There are two basic layering schemes - a "snake" or "snail". But they can be combined and combined in different variations. Basic schemes are shown in the figure:

Basic layouts for contours

a - "snail". It is considered the most appropriate from the point of view of uniform heat distribution. Differs in a more complex installation process.

b - "snake". It is easier to install, but it has a pronounced drawback - the heat is distributed zonal.

c - variation of the "snake" with a double entry. The distribution of heat over the area is more even, but there are pronounced bands.

• In order to prevent unnecessary heat consumption for heating wall structures, the contours are laid at a distance of no closer than 300 mm to them.
• One of the defining parameters of the contour is the step of its laying, that is, the distance between adjacent pipes in the loop. Usually this value lies in the range from 80 mm (it is impossible to make less, since the radius of bending of pipes will not allow) and up to 300 mm (they do not do it anymore, as a "zebra effect" appears - pronounced stripes of warm and cold coating).

The laying step largely depends on how you plan to use the "warm floor" - whether it will be the only source of heat, or should work in conjunction with radiators. In addition, for residential rooms, a surface heating temperature of up to 29 ° C is required (if natural wood or parquet is used as a topcoat, up to 27 ° C), while in a bathroom. in the kitchen, in the bathroom, finished with ceramic tiles, in the hallway, it is already 33 ° C.

• It is not for nothing that heating radiators are installed near window openings - they create a kind of curtain, minimizing heat loss. This also needs to be taken into account when drawing up a "warm floor" scheme - provide for a denser installation in areas with maximum heat loss - near windows and along external walls. And here there can be a very large number of variations of the "drawings" of the contour.

It is best to depict the stacking scheme at once on a scale in a drawing - a diagram. This will also help in the process of installing the circuit, and will allow you to calculate in advance the required number of pipes.

The length of the contour can be calculated using the formula:

L- the length of the contour in a certain area.

k- coefficient taking into account the bends of the pipeline.

Thus, if the laying step is uniform over the entire area of ​​the room, then the calculation is performed at once for the entire contour. If there are selected areas with compacted packing, then the length of the pipe is calculated for each, and then summed up.

To make things easier, you can use the calculator below:

Calculator for calculating the length of pipes for the "warm floor"

Straight supply and return sections must be added to the obtained value, as well as the necessary "mounting ends" for connection to the manifold.

• It should be remembered that the contour cannot be limitless. The hydraulic resistance can become higher than the pressure of the coolant, and the circuit will simply "close". So, if a DN16 pipe is used, then you should limit yourself to a length of 70 - 80 m (optimally - up to 60 m), with DN20 - no more than 100 m (80 m). If, as a result of calculations, it turns out that a longer circuit is needed, you will have to divide it into two, with a separate connection of each to the collector. In this case, it is desirable to achieve approximately equal length of both - a difference is permissible - no more than 20%.

At the same time, if it is planned to fill the "warm floor" with a screed, a technological rupture of the coating must be made between different contours with the installation of a damper tape in it. The same tape, to compensate for thermal expansion, should be laid along the walls along the entire perimeter of the room.

Equipment required for the functioning of the "warm floor" in the apartment

It is naive to believe that laying the pipe loops already solves all problems - they say, it remains to connect them to the supply and return, and everything will work right away. Nothing of the kind - the performance of such a system would be a big question. In addition, it is necessary to solve a number of other technological problems:

• The liquid will always choose the path of least hydraulic resistance, and in order to make it circulate along a long pipe loop, it will be necessary to install special equipment - a pumping unit.
• It is imperative that devices are needed to release accumulated air to avoid gas locks.
• The created pressure in the system must be equalized in order to ensure the circulation of the coolant with the most efficient heat transfer, without stagnation and with the exception of the likelihood of water hammer.
• The temperature level in radiators and in the “warm floor” circuits is completely different. If the heating in the central system can reach 80 degrees, then this is completely unacceptable for floor heating. Such temperatures will create an uncomfortable atmosphere in the room, and will have a destructive effect on the condition of the insulation screed, and will lead to deformation of the floor covering.

Typically, the temperature of the coolant in the "warm floor" circuits is maintained within the range of 35 ÷ 40, maximum 50 ° C. Thus, it is required to install a special unit that will mix the coolant from the supply and "return" to achieve the required level of heating of the floor surface.

Mixing scheme of hot and cooled coolant flows in a simple three-way valve

• The coolant in the system must be clean, therefore it will not interfere with the installation of appropriate filters, especially if water is used from the central heating system.
• In order to visually control the parameters of the system's operation - the pressure in the circuit and the temperature level, you will need appropriate instruments, a pressure gauge and a thermometer.
• The system must be safe to operate - without observing this condition, permission for its installation will simply not be obtained. In addition, if it is planned to connect to central risers, then the "warm floors" created should in no way interfere with the normal operation of the heating system of the entire building.

By the way, with this approach, no one is allowed to show excessive independence. Most likely, one of the typical schemes for connecting to the central system will be offered. For example, such as shown in the figure:

One of the typical schemes for connecting a "warm floor" to the wiring of the heating system

This is exactly the option that has already been mentioned - the apartment is located last along the heating riser at the entrance.

At the entrance to the dedicated system, an inlet valve (item 1) is not shown in the diagram, but it is recommended to also place an “oblique” mud filter here in order to prevent the ingress of unclean coolant into the distribution equipment and into the “warm floor” circuits themselves.

At the exit from the system, check valve(item 2) and shut-off valve.

In this case, the temperature of the coolant in the "warm floor" circuits is set by a three-way valve (pos. 3). This can be a device with a manual setting of the required mixing level, or a more modern one with a servo drive that receives a control signal from a temperature sensor at the input to the supply manifold (shown with a green dotted line).

Three-way valves - manually operated (left), and equipped with a servo drive

To ensure circulation, a pump is installed (pos. 4), which, in terms of its capacity and the generated head, must correspond to the total indicators of all circuits connected to the manifold.

A bypass valve (pos. 5) is installed on the bypass between the manifolds, which equalizes, if necessary, the differential pressure to the required value.

On the collectors themselves, there must be air vents (pos. 6) and drain taps (pos. 7)

In the event that the underfloor heating system is connected directly to both pipes - both to the high-temperature supply and to the return (this mainly happens with a completely autonomous heating system of an apartment, or upon obtaining the appropriate permission for a tie-in into the central one), then they can be used here other wiring diagrams:

The general setting is also done with balancing valves on the bypass (pos. 3) and on the return (pos. 4). The overflow valve (key 5) provides the differential pressure required for normal circulation.

The circuit is far from perfect, it is rather complicated in precise balancing.

The scheme is simple and effective enough, but the mixing quality is lame.

Both the temperature of the coolant in the "warm floor" circuits and the pressure level can be finely adjusted.

A two-way valve and two control valves are installed.

But there is one important difference from all the previously considered schemes - the mandatory presence of a separate expansion tank (item 13) and its own "safety group, (item 12) in which the most important role is assigned to the safety valve.

Expansion tank and "safety group" are required if heat transfer is via a heat exchanger

If it is supposed to connect several contours of a warm floor, then it is necessary to provide for their mutual balancing. If this is not observed, then the coolant will find its path of least hydraulic resistance, and in other circuits, the circulation will either be unacceptably small, or, in general, will be interrupted. Maintaining a perfectly equal length of the contours is almost unrealistic, which means that additional adjustment is required.

For this, taps are installed on each of their outputs and inputs of the collector comb - with their help, it will be possible to perform mutual balancing. In addition, these cranes will allow the circuit to be disconnected locally if they are not needed or for preventive or repair work without disrupting the operation of the rest of the system.

Distribution manifold with thermostats on each connected circuit

It is even better if each of the circuits connected to the manifold has its own thermostat. This will make it easier to achieve accurate temperature settings for different rooms.

As an example, the figure shows a diagram of the operation of one of the varieties of collector-regulating units.

Schematically - the work of the collector unit

Is it worth assembling such a unit yourself? In principle, it is quite possible to find all the components for it, and with due experience in plumbing installation work, assembly does not seem to be an insurmountable obstacle. However, it is still better to purchase a ready-made manifold cabinet - in its design, both each individual element and their correspondence to each other are important.

In the salon, you can pick up a ready-made manifold assembly for any layout of the "warm floor"

In the assortment of specialized stores, you can find the required model, designed both for a small heating area with two or three "underfloor heating" circuits, and capable of taking over the distribution and regulation of many circuits laid over large areas large apartment or at home.

The installation of a manifold cabinet with multiple circuits is usually planned to minimize long flow paths. That is, the most preferable will be the price of a square meter.

So, in the publication, the main schemes for installing a warm floor in an apartment were considered. When choosing a specific type and calculating the parameters of the system, it is best to contact a qualified specialist - errors in this matter have a very serious effect on the quality of heating and are very difficult to eliminate.

Warm floors, water wiring diagrams in an apartment - how to choose the optimal one

If warm floors are used as heating, water wiring diagrams in the apartment differ in a number of features. Details are in the article.

The bathroom floor is cold even when the entire room is filled with steam: warm air always goes up, and the floor covering is most often ceramic, which conducts heat well. How to make the bathroom?

Improper installation of the water floor () will lead to irrational heat loss in the entire heating system.

You can stop at this option if water heating in the house is not provided at all (for example, the main source of heat is a Russian stove).

How to make a warm bathroom floor from heating in an urban setting? Impossible. The administration will not give permission for a tie-in into the heating riser, as this will lead to a violation of the functionality of the entire system of an apartment building. The insert cannot be carried out without permission, it is a matter of jurisdiction.

But the townspeople also have the option of installing a water floor for the bathroom, which is not prohibited by law: direct connection to a hot riser.

How to make a warm floor in a bathroom from hot water, we will consider below. There are disadvantages to this option: the floor will only heat up when hot water flows. And the water in the tap will be colder: it will have time to cool down partially, passing along the contour.

The best option for the city is an electric floor. Heating area is usually small. It is not necessary to keep the system on all the time. When calculated correctly, energy consumption will be quite economical.

A cheap option is a heating cable. Its disadvantages are electromagnetic radiation, the complexity of installation, the need to install a screed (existing).

The film floor will cost more, but it has no other drawbacks. The installation of cable mats in the bathroom is problematic: the room is small, the geometry is complex. It is difficult to find the required number of mats, but they cannot be cut.

How to make a heated bathroom floor from electricity is described below. General requirement for film and cable: in accordance with electrical safety standards, the floor should be connected to a separate machine with a 25 amp RCD. And for the rest, you also need to follow the PUE.

Regardless of the type of floor, the first step is to draw up a diagram. The diagram shows the location of pipes / cables / film sections, the location of the thermostat, water collector. Based on the finished drawing, you can calculate the required cable or pipe length, the required number of film sections.

How to make a water heated floor in a bathroom - an option for a private house: integrating the floor into a common heating circuit.

1. Install the manifold cabinet (at a low height) or make a niche in which the manifold rail will be installed. Underfloor heating requires its own collector, independent of radiators.
2. Install the comb, connect the supply and return pipes from the boiler to it. Install shut-off valves at the connections.
3. Remove the floor covering, dismantle the old screed.
4. Level the base with cement mortar, seal cracks and cavities.
5. Cover the floor with a waterproofing film going up the walls.
6. Glue a damper tape at the joints between the floor and the walls. Its edge should be slightly higher than the future screed (which depends on).
7. Pour the rough screed. About seven centimeters should remain from it to the future topcoat.
8. Dry the screed for three days, regularly moistening with water.
9. Lay the heat insulator: foil foam, PPS, polyurethane foam.
10. If the insulation is not foil-coated, cover it with foil film. Glue the joints of the strips with metallized tape.
11. Lay the reinforcement mesh.
12. Lay the pipes in accordance with the diagram. Fasten to the mesh with plastic clamps. The step between the turns is 15-25 centimeters.
13. Connect the supply and return pipes to the collector pipes through the shut-off valves.
14. Turn on the water, test the system for leaks.
15. Cool the floor, pour in a clean screed. The total height with pipes is up to 7 cm.
16. Dry the screed (about a day), lay the tiles ().
17. The system can be turned on when the screed is fully seized (after about a month).

How to properly make a warm bathroom floor from hot water? Floor cake - as described above. A feature of this connection method is the connection of the supply and return pipes directly to the hot riser.

This makes some adjustments to the standard editing:

1. The metal hot water riser must be replaced with a plastic one.
2. It is recommended to lay the floor with a pipe of increased diameter (metal-plastic 2 cm) instead of the most commonly used section 1.6. Otherwise, with a small head, the system will work slowly and ineffectively.
3. It is better to use a short pipe, up to 20 m. The laying step is 15 cm.
4. It is recommended to reduce the thickness of the finishing screed to a maximum of 5 cm.
5. It is advisable to make the layer of thermal insulation thick: if the PPS, then not less than one and a half centimeters with a density of 35 kilograms per cubic meter.
6. The pipes are connected to the riser through ball valves, adjusting and balancing ().

Electric floors

How to make an electric underfloor heating in a bathroom from a cable? In general, the process is similar to the installation of water pipes: waterproofing - rough screed - insulation - foil - mesh - cable - system performance testing - final screed - coating.

The thermostat is mounted on the wall in an overhead method or placed in a strobe no higher than a meter from the floor. With open wiring, the power cable from the switchboard to the thermostat is fed in a corrugated pipe; with closed installation, it is laid in a groove.

The thermal sensor with the wire extending from it is removed into the section of the corrugated pipe. The sensor is laid between the turns of the cable, the conductor in the corrugation is connected to the thermostat.

How to make a warm floor in the bathroom, if you settled on the film version:

1. The floor cake is shaped as described above.
2. The film sections are spread parallel to each other in accordance with the diagram.
3. They are also connected in parallel.
4. The screed can be omitted from above. In the absence of a screed, an additional layer of waterproofing is laid on top of the film.
5. Place a sheet of plywood.
6. Place porcelain stoneware or ceramic tiles with adhesive ().

Conclusion

We have outlined the basic rules on how to make a warm floor in a bathroom with your own hands.

In suburban conditions, water floors are preferable, in the city electric ones. Especially if the apartment is not located on the ground floor.

Pipe leaks occur even with proper installation. And if you flood your neighbors, the cost of repairs may be comparable to the funds that you saved ().

Video: how to make a warm floor in a bathroom with your own hands.

The temptation to install a water-heated floor in an apartment is quite large. Despite constant warnings from the authorities and bad experience For those who have already laid the water circuit, the residents are again and again making an additional heating system for their homes. What points need to be considered before taking on a project?

Is it possible to make water floors in an apartment

In domestic conditions, it is quite problematic to obtain official permission to install an autonomous heating system in an apartment. Therefore, warm water floors in an apartment building are connected to heating pipes, heated towel rails, etc., which ultimately is a gross violation of the housing code.

The legislation severely punishes anyone who makes changes to the central heating system of an apartment building. Independent connection of a water heated floor in an apartment is fraught with sanctions, court decisions, fines, etc.

The reason for the lawsuit is usually flooded neighbors downstairs. Therefore, before arranging a water-heated floor in an apartment with your own hands or with the help of involved builders, you must first calculate all the advantages and disadvantages of the solution, take into account the possible risks and negative consequences.

According to SNiP, it is possible to make changes to the heating system of the apartment, subject to the approval of the modification with representatives of housing and communal services and the Heating System. In practice, this is possible only in the case of autonomous heating provided for in the project documentation.

What is needed for a water floor in an apartment

There are three main disadvantages of a water-heated floor in an apartment:

• Difficulties associated with registration and legalization of the work performed.
• The consequences of possible leaks, the responsibility for which lies entirely with the owner of the apartment.
• Responsibility for inconsistent installation.

To install warm water floors, you will need to overcome all these difficulties.

Registration- the reasons why water floor heating is prohibited in apartments are as follows:

First reason: According to housing regulations, it is not allowed to increase the heat output in an apartment when replacing radiators or making changes to the central heating pipeline.

This norm is made in order to maintain the temperature level of the coolant within the normal range for each room in the house. Any changes associated with an increase in energy consumption are unacceptable. Therefore, it is forbidden to install water-heated floors in an apartment with central heating.

It is possible to bypass this rate if, after installing the water circuit, the total heat output remains the same. And for this you will have to reduce the number of radiators, which is not always practical.

The second reason: It is forbidden to install due to possible leakage of the circuit. We will have to draw up a project of work and prove that in case of violation of the integrity of the pipe, the likelihood that water will ruin the housing of the neighbors from below is negligible.

To legalize the laying and use of water floor heating in an apartment, you will have to use high-quality waterproofing, make a project with the materials specified in it. It may be necessary to put an insulating corrugation on the pipes to prevent leakage, and to fulfill other conditions of the heating system.

Leakage probability- even in the case of a competent device of a waterproofing layer, it is unrealistic to completely prevent the likelihood that neighbors from below will not be flooded due to a pipe rupture. And since a home-made warm water floor in an apartment is a reorganization of the living space, the material responsibility for damage will fall entirely on the culprit of the leak.

If it is not possible to negotiate peacefully with neighbors, you will have to pay compensation, including repair work, court costs, etc.

Official registration- getting permission is so problematic that most owners go the other way and simply assemble the heating system on their own, connecting the circuit without the necessary approvals. This is regarded as illegal redevelopment of the apartment. And independent changes lead to the impossibility of selling the living space.

The only solution is to make individual heating in the apartment. In this case, you only need to register changes in the layout, in the BTI, which is much easier than solving issues with the Heating System.

A fine for a water floor in an apartment is not the only punishment. The authorities judicially oblige the owner to dismantle the water circuit.

How to lay pipes on the floor

If, despite all the listed disadvantages, a decision is made to connect the heating circuit, you will need to adhere to the following DIY installation scheme for a water heated floor in an apartment:

• Preparation of the base - floor slabs are treated with waterproofing materials. It is preferable to use a special mastic, which will prevent moisture from leaking to neighbors in case of a leak.
• Insulation laying - the choice of thermal insulation material for laying a warm water floor heating in an apartment is limited. The height of the ceilings does not allow the use of thick insulation.
  The best option is to install warm water floors in an apartment building using polystyrene systems. Mats in this case play the role of insulation and base for pipes.
• Water circuit - installation technology involves the use of the "snail" and "snake" pipe laying methods.
• Finishing layer - polystyrene systems are covered with plywood or gypsum fiber board in two layers. As a floor covering, you can use: ceramic tiles, linoleum, parquet, laminate, etc.

The service life of the PVC water circuit does not exceed 50 years. It is strictly forbidden to use ferrous metal pipes that rot in concrete floor for several years.

From what to connect water floors

There are two methods that are used in apartments to connect to a heat carrier source:

1. Heated towel rail - as a rule, the heating return or hot water supply is supplied to the riser. Consequently, the heating temperature is more gentle around 35-50 ° C. It is much easier to power from a heated towel rail, especially when you consider that some owners have replaced this part of the riser by installing shut-off valves for possible repair.
2. Connecting from a central heating system in a city apartment - the solution has several disadvantages. Water heated to 70 ° C and higher is supplied through the heat exchanger in the apartment. As a result, walking on a floor powered by radiators will only be possible in thick slippers with thick soles. To prevent overheating of the floor, a collector group is installed.

Installation features and probable errors

In addition to the difficulties associated with obtaining permits and approvals, certain mistakes are made during installation.

• Self-tapping with independent connection from the riser. There is a coolant in the heating pipe at all times. The liquid is drained only during the maintenance of the system for a short time. To start working with central heating, you need to obtain a permit, pay a receipt and drain the water from the riser.
• The inability to regulate the floor temperature. If you plan to feed the water circuit from central heating, you will definitely need to install a regulating heating of the coolant. The installation procedure will need to include the installation of a water collector.
• Lack of underfloor heating project. The maximum pipeline length cannot exceed 70 running meters. This is enough for 10 m² at best. You will need to determine in advance the layout of the pipe, divide the room into heating zones.
• The use of accessories for underfloor heating and pipes from different manufacturers. A common mistake that leads to a rapid depressurization of the system.

It is necessary to connect the water circuit in such a way that after it is turned off, the coolant continues to circulate in the central heating system.

Which floor to choose - water or electric?

In terms of legality and possible negative consequences, it is better to choose floors that are powered by electricity. Necessary equipment for the installation of a film or cable system: an electrician's kit (pliers, paint knife, wire cutters, tester, etc.).

The regulation on the use of electric floors in an apartment building does not have such serious drawbacks as in the case of a water heating circuit.

You can decide to lay the water heating circuit illegally, or try to get official permission, but, as a rule, material costs and time costs, as a result of this decision, are unjustified. According to SNiP, it is better to lay cable or film IR floors in an apartment building.

For residents of apartment buildings, especially old buildings, from year to year, with the onset of the cold period, the same problem arises. It is about the quality of heating for living quarters. Centralized heat supply, despite all its archaism, remains today the main option for heating the housing stock in almost all settlements and cities of our country.

For reference: according to the State Statistics Committee, today up to 75% of housing facilities in our cities are heated by a centralized heating system.

Hot batteries in the house are not yet a sign that it will be warm and comfortable inside the apartment. Autonomous heating, warm floor in the apartment, heating methods that most of our citizens can only dream about. Multi-apartment buildings, especially "Khrushchevs" and panel multi-storey buildings, due to design features huge heat losses are inherent. It is a problematic task to warm up a residential building normally with ordinary radiators in severe frosts.

For this reason, and for a number of others, residents are forced to look for ways to help solve the problem. One of the most effective, relatively inexpensive and most practical options for additional heating is a heated floor from a heated towel rail.

Connecting a warm floor to a heated towel rail

The idea of ​​using district heating as the main heat source for operating other heating systems in an apartment is not new. It is a costly task to use massively electric household heaters to create a comfortable temperature in an apartment. Insufficient thermal efficiency of residential premises causes high costs for additional heating. Underfloor heating in this regard is the most effective heating method. For private houses, this heating scheme is real and feasible, but for city apartments, the legality of this engineering and technological solution comes out on top.

The main reason for the ban is that adding additional heating devices to centralized heating can negatively affect the quality of heating in neighboring apartments.

For reference: in a centralized heating system, the operating pressure differs significantly from the optimal parameters that the pipes of the underfloor heating circuit have. Do not forget about the temperature of the coolant. For underfloor heating optimum temperature heating is 35-45 0 С, while in the radiators of the central heating system the coolant has a temperature of 65-75 0 С.

The incompatibility of operating parameters calls into question the combination of a centralized heat supply system with a heating pipe laid in the floor. If we omit in this situation the legality of this engineering and technical solution, heating specialists speak negatively about the idea of ​​using a heating plant for the operation of a warm floor. The poor quality of the coolant and the high probability of water hammer makes this technical solution problem area in the apartment. It is quite a different matter when it comes to heating a limited area in your apartment.

For example: a bathroom, toilet and other rooms are in dire need of additional heating. Install a warm floor in the bathroom, which will be connected to a heated towel rail, the task with which you can cope on your own. Calculations and costs in this case do not play key role... The small area and insignificant amount of work allow this method of heating to be used in a city apartment without harming the neighbors.

Heating system operating principles

This connection option is not technically difficult. A heated towel rail is a heating device installed in almost every city apartment. From a constructive point of view, it is an external communication element through which a hot coolant or hot water of the DHW system circulates. Such elements are often installed as a compensating loop of the heating system, and play the role of an additional source of heat in rooms with high humidity. The name of the element speaks for itself, hence the serpentine shape, thanks to which the heated circuit can be effectively used.

For aesthetics, towel warmers are usually made of stainless steel or nickel-plated. The very design and method of connecting the heated towel rail to a centralized communication allow you to connect a water floor pipe to it without much difficulty. As a rule, small diameter pipes are used for underfloor heating. For a bathroom, the area of ​​which rarely exceeds 4-5 m 2 in a city apartment, only 15-20 meters of pipe will be required.

There are two types of heated towel rails:

• a coil that is connected to a centralized heating system;
• a coil that is connected to the centralized DHW.

In the first case, with the onset of the heating season, water fills the heated towel rail and, accordingly, enters the underfloor heating circuit, heating the floor surface.

The first option works only during the heating season. The rest of the time your warm floor will be inactive. A coil connected to the DHW system looks preferable. Such a bathroom floor will always work, providing a good microclimate and a comfortable temperature.

What does the connection diagram look like?

The option for connecting a heated towel rail in an apartment also determines the method of installing a warm water floor.

On a note: in some houses, the coil installed in the bathroom is fed by a coolant flowing in the opposite direction. This is the most suitable option in terms of manufacturability.

An acceptable coolant temperature allows the underfloor heating to work with maximum efficiency. However, there is one but! At the end of the heating season, your coil will be cold and there is no use for the underfloor heating. This connection diagram is not ideal.

Underfloor heating works better when connected to a heated towel rail connected to the hot water supply in the bathroom. Here you need to select a pipe for the water circuit of the correct diameter, accurately calculate the length of the pipeline, the heated area and choose the correct connection method. It is better to take pipes for underfloor heating made of metal-plastic, with a diameter of 16 mm.

The installation process itself is quite simple and straightforward. All work consists in connecting (tie-in) to the main pipe (riser) of the water floor contour. The new pipe will go into the floor and return back to the coil. Be sure to install a start-up valve at the tie-in point, with which you can adjust the flow rate, turn on and off your additional heating. This option is the simplest and cheapest, but on condition that the pressure in the pipes is within normal limits.

Underfloor heating installation, as usual, is not much different from traditional practice. The water circuit pipe is laid in the substrate at a certain pitch. The bending radii of the pipe should be minimal in order to ensure the normal flow of the coolant throughout the system. If you cannot do with one circuit in the bathroom, you will have to use a manifold. With this device, you can not only connect more water circuits, but also quite accurately regulate the water supply and the heating temperature of the underfloor heating. You can install for reliability circulation pump however, the profitability of your miniature heating system will be minimal.

Conclusion. What problems can you face

Using centralized heating and a hot water system for installing a warm floor is a rare phenomenon and rather an exception to the rule. How they work centralized systems communications directly depends on the efficiency of your design. A drop in pressure in the system, deterioration in the quality of the coolant affects the permeability of the water circuit.

You should also remember about possible emergency situations. As a result of a rupture of the heating circuit pipe due to a water hammer, the resulting leak will have to be eliminated immediately. To do this, you will need to remove not only the tiles, but also to dismantle the screed section. It is highly likely that if the integrity of the water circuit is violated, you will flood your neighbors from below.

Remember! A hot towel warmer will be a problem for you. The absence of a heating regulator in this case will become an obstacle for you to set a comfortable temperature in the bathroom. An overheated floor will dry out a small room in the bathroom. Interruptions from hot water v apartment buildings the phenomenon is quite frequent, so there is no need to rely on the constant normal operation of the warm floor.

The collector and temperature control sensor will help to partially solve the problems, but then your heating system will go beyond the planned budget.

Underfloor heating systems are used today both as the main and as additional heating of the home. Recently, their popularity has increased significantly, since these devices can significantly reduce the cost of heating the room.

The traditional and most familiar to the consumer is a water heat-insulated floor. It can be installed in an apartment with the help of specialists or on your own. But about what difficulties may arise during its installation and how to properly perform such work, we will tell you in this article.

Is the installation of water floor systems allowed in the apartment?

Before deciding on the arrangement of such heating, you should find out if a warm water floor is allowed in the apartment. Since the device is connected to the general heating system, it is necessary to obtain permission from the housing and communal company and the heating network for such work, and, as practice shows, it is almost impossible to do this.

Everything is explained by the fact that the water floor leads to a significant increase in energy consumption and creates an additional load on the heating system, which was not taken into account during the design. To exclude such a phenomenon, it is necessary to install devices that provide forced circulation of water (pump and mixing unit), and this is very difficult to do on the basis of central heating.

The only exceptions are rooms with autonomous heating. In this case, having installed a water-heated floor in the apartment, the owners simply need to register the changes made in the BTI.

What threatens homeowners for the illegal installation of a water circuit in the floors

Nevertheless, despite all the prohibitions, many owners decide to independently connect the warm floor from the central heating (in the apartment), after which they face various troubles and sanctions. Namely:

1. If there is a need to sell an apartment, it will be impossible to do it legally.

2. If there is a breakthrough in the circuit and the apartment below is flooded with water, all the costs of its repair in in full will fall on the owner of warm floors.

3. If illegal redevelopment of the system is revealed by representatives of the heating network or the housing office, the landlord cannot avoid litigation, sanctions and fines.

That is why, having decided to connect a warm floor from central heating in an apartment, it is necessary to weigh well the pros and cons. To do this, consider what other advantages and disadvantages it has this system heating.

Advantages of warm floors

Homeowners who have installed a hot water heater note the following positive aspects of such a redevelopment of heating:

It becomes much more comfortable in the room than when heated with stationary radiators;

All rooms in the apartment warm up evenly;

The humidity level in the room practically does not change, the air does not dry out;

Heating costs are reduced by up to 40%;

The system does not affect the appearance of the room (unlike bulky batteries and pipes).

If we compare the water circuit and film heating, then the first option has an undeniable advantage due to the absence of electromagnetic radiation. Energy consumption during the operation of hot water heating is also less than when using electrical analogs.

Negative sides of the system

If we talk about the shortcomings that a water-heated floor (in an apartment) has, then the following facts can be attributed to them:

Due to a sufficiently large layer of screed (about 10 cm), the height of the room is noticeably reduced;

If during the installation poor-quality materials were used or mistakes were made, there is a high probability of a breakthrough, which entails a lot of problems;

Since a water-heated floor is laid in a screed, its installation can be carried out only at the stage of building a building or during a major overhaul;

The work on arranging the system is very laborious, so not all owners are able to install it on their own.

Water floor device

As it has already become clear, the warm floor is mounted in a screed. The device is presented in the form of pipes, which are located under the floor covering and are filled with cement mortar. The structure is connected to the heating system, from which hot water or a special liquid enters the pipes.

Circulating through the pipes, the coolant heats the floor covering, due to which the room is heated.

If we look at the underfloor heating system layer by layer, we can see that the elements are arranged in the following order:

1. Concrete slab (sub-floor).

2. Waterproofing material.

3. Insulation.

4. Heat reflector (foil sheets).

5. Reinforcing mesh.

7. Screed.

8. Finishing material.

Laminate and linoleum are used as flooring in living rooms, since these materials are less susceptible to deformation and perfectly transmit heat. In the bathroom and kitchen, underfloor heating is installed under the tiles (water). It is quite simple to do such a finish with your own hands, besides, ceramics has increased wear resistance and good heat transfer.

What pipes and insulation can be used

We have already considered the advantages, disadvantages and elements with a liquid heat carrier, it remains to understand what materials are used in the process of its installation and how to independently perform the necessary work.

First of all, you need to choose high-quality pipes. Many people prefer foam products, as they are the cheapest. This savings is not justified, since plastic pipes are characterized by less heat transfer.

In the case of water floors, it is preferable to use metal-plastic options with a diameter of 20 and 25 mm. They have an ideal value for money. More expensive options such as corrugated stainless steel and copper can be installed if your budget allows.

Next, you need to decide on the choice of insulation, on top of which an autonomous warm floor (water) will be mounted. The apartment most often uses polyethylene foam (with a reflective coating) and thin polystyrene foam. If the apartment is located above an unheated room, expanded clay can be used as thermal insulation.

Necessary devices

The main components of the underfloor heating system are:

Boiler for heating liquid (in the case of autonomous heating);

The pump that provides pressure in the system;

Pipes for wiring installation;

Ball valves;

A pair of collectors with a regulation and adjustment system;

Fitting;

Water circuit (pipes).

Pipe laying methods

Before proceeding with the arrangement of the system, it is necessary to decide on the method of pipe laying. in the house can be presented in two versions. In the first, pipes are laid with a snake, and in the second - with a snail.

The "snake" laying method is considered to be the simplest, however, when using it, the surface temperature in different parts of the room may differ.

The snail-like arrangement eliminates the occurrence of overheating, but the installation of pipes and the design of the system is much more complicated.

Installation of the water circuit can be done with your own hands, for this you just need to take into account a few recommendations and clearly follow the instructions.

1. The first step is to remove the old finish (if any) and clean the floor down to the concrete screed. The new coating will be 6-7 cm higher, which should be taken into account by the owners of rooms with low ceilings.

2. If you equip heating in the bathroom, then in order to lay the warm floor under the tile (water) with your own hands, you need to completely dismantle the screed.

3. If metal pipes are installed in the room, they must be replaced with plastic ones so that rust does not appear at the joints. If the circuit is mounted in a stationary system, it is not necessary.

4. To protect the floor from leaks, a reliable waterproofing should be placed on it. For these purposes, a special mastic is used, which, after hardening, does not allow moisture to seep to the neighbors.

5. Next, the insulation is mounted. The material is positioned with a reflective coating outward, and the seams between the sheets are glued with tape. An additional layer of waterproofing can be laid on top of the insulation. This will reduce the risk of water leakage.

6. Along the entire perimeter of the room (along the edges of the insulation material) should be glued. After that, the mats for the installation of warm floors are laid.

7. Pipes are mounted on top of the mats (using the selected method). The distance between the pipe turns must be at least 30 cm. At the base, the pipe is fixed using special clamps or brackets (made of strong wire), which are stuck into the insulation. If you have purchased special mats with grooves for pipes, you do not need to do this procedure.

8. Both ends of the pipe lead to the place where the floor manifold will be located. With its help, the system is connected to the main heating or an outlet is made to the boiler.

9. After assembling the system, water is pumped into it and checked at maximum pressure. This is done to detect leaks and repair defects.

To reduce the cost of arranging the water circuit, pipes can be omitted in places where furniture will be located.

Important nuances

If the underfloor heating is laid under ceramic tiles, the thickness of the screed should not exceed 5 cm. Also, the pipes must be placed at a distance of 15 cm from each other so that they warm up the space to the required degree, and cold areas do not form between them.

Under the linoleum and laminated panels, the screed is made even thinner, and for strength, a reinforcing mesh is placed over the heating system.

The first floor heating may take several days, but in the future, the system will maintain the desired temperature. Some areas of the apartment can be heated all year round (where there are tiles on the floors). In this case, full warming up in the cold season will take less time.

In conclusion, we will touch on the cost of warm water floors. In the apartment, taking into account the material and installation, experts will make the floors for 1300-2600 rubles per m². The price depends on the quality of the purchased equipment and the complexity of the project. If we calculate, then the total amount is quite high, but after 5 years of operation, the system fully pays off. And if we take into account its long service life (about 50 years) and rising prices for heating, then, perhaps, all the hassle of installing a water circuit is fully justified.