62 year old Irina Alexandrovna from Magnitogorsk says displeasedly to a waiter in India in Hindi: “Be more careful. Why did you bring naan with cheese unbaked? I’m not your tourist!” The waiter turns pale, babbles something and disappears. “That’s the only way with them,” Irina says sternly. “Otherwise they will definitely be deceived.”
She says that she moved to India immediately after college: “I was 25, and in my last year I married Raj. He is 10 years older, he looked after me beautifully, and I was a girl not spoiled by attention. Such love and passion flared up - all my friends were jealous.”
The wedding took place in two countries in turn - both in the USSR and in India. Irina admits that at first she was shocked by the country. “I thought it was like in a movie. Well, beautiful princesses, temples, palaces, elephants, coconut trees, dancing on every corner. And on the first day, a snake crawled into my bedroom - I screamed so hard, I woke up the whole house. Raj calmly crushed it with his foot and said, well, nothing happens. There are mountains of dirt on the streets, beggars are crawling with scabs, torrential rains for 3 months in a row... The romance has diminished. I really wanted smoked brisket and doctor’s sausage, I just dreamed about them, but you couldn’t buy them anywhere. I’m tired of fighting cockroaches; nothing can poison them: they are healthy, the size of a finger. Raj kept laughing: they say, we shouldn’t fight with our cockroaches, but make friends. But Raj loved me madly, and I loved him, and that’s the most important thing.”
Five years ago, Irina Alexandrovna’s husband died, but she no longer wants to return to Russia. “There’s no point. I chat in Hindi, wear a sari, and with my local girlfriends I go to the market to buy chili peppers for green beans in curry. I watch Indian TV series where good triumphs over evil, and the poor with beautiful souls are better than the disgusting rich. I like it here, in general.”
Photo: / Georgy Zotov
Mother in law and white horse
I was not given the exact number of women from the Russian Federation living in India, but their approximate number is estimated at several tens of thousands: from 30,000 to 70,000. These are mainly our girls who married Indians during the period of great friendship between the USSR and India in the sixties and eighties years of the 20th century, when many Indian students studied in the Soviet Union, and all the Soviet ladies flocked to the cinemas to see “The Disco Dancer”. India seemed mystical and alluring “abroad”. Those who arrived after the nineties did not have much luck with the exotic.
“The climate is terrible, the heat is sticky,” complains the 28-year-old Victoria from Krasnodar, who settled in Kerala with her Tamil husband in 2012. - Always keep the air conditioning on - the electricity bills will be astronomical: so you sit by the fan that circulates hot air. The sun burns my skin: I thought I’d become dark-skinned and everyone’s envy, but I’m always wearing cream. There is nothing to do at all. In India, it is not customary for wives to work: even the poorest husbands have their women at home. At first I said that I wanted to become a tourist guide, my mother-in-law scolded me: are you out of your mind? What will the neighbors say about my son if his wife goes to work for him? And mothers-in-law in India have stronger authority than in Russia; they don’t dare object to them. We had a great wedding: we celebrated for three days, music, dancing, tons of flowers, the groom came for me on a white horse. The main thing in marriage in India is children, they give birth to a lot of them, but I was not ready for this. I thought: well, after thirty years we’ll start one... Scandals began every day: “Why don’t you want to? The purpose of a woman in the world is a child!’ And they definitely expect her to give birth to a boy: the ‘weaker sex’ is not valued. Such cases are not uncommon: if a wife finds out on an ultrasound that she is pregnant with a girl, she has an abortion on family recommendation. We did not officially divorce, although I returned back to Krasnodar. I fly to India only for the winter, then it’s nice here, you can even swim in the sea. The husband sighs, of course, but doesn’t mind. He loves me."
God with a tail and a banana
The main “scarecrow” for our women in India is animals and insects. “Lord, how tired I am of monkeys! - gets angry Marina, former resident of Veliky Ustyug. “They’re impudent as hell, they can tear an earring out of your ear, if you buy a bag of nuts on the street to eat, they’ll jump on your shoulder and snatch it right out of your hands.” I would have hit the macaque with an umbrella: they are dangerous, they infect you with all sorts of diseases. But you can’t, the monkey is a sacred animal. The Indians swear at them, they can swing a stick at them, but never to hit them. Like, they are divine. Damn, what kind of god can be with a tail and a banana?!”
“My constant companion in life in India is dichlorvos,” says 35-year-old Khabarovsk resident Alexandra, who has been living in Trivandrum for 10 years. “The ants hesitated, spiders, some midges: they’ll bite, then you’ll be itching for a month.” Mosquitoes spread dengue fever and malaria. At first she didn’t leave the house without spraying herself with repellent, then she waved her hand... Well, why not everyone gets sick in a row. We need to be careful, but we shouldn’t panic.”
But everyone has an excellent relationship with elephants.
“My neighbor keeps three elephants,” says Alexandra. - Funny, such a colossus, but calm, like a cow. And when an elephant and its driver walk through the city, it obediently stops at a red light: it’s already accustomed.” Many of our ladies do not have a good relationship with Indian food. Irina Aleksandrovna, who dreamed of the doctor’s sausage, explains: her late husband was a vegetarian, and she had to “reformat” herself.
Photo: / Georgy Zotov
“When he was courting me, I didn’t pay attention: well, he only eats salads, and okay, who doesn’t like cucumbers and tomatoes. And then we came to India, and it turned out that in the family they didn’t eat meat or chicken. What a nightmare! Then I got involved, now I don’t eat meat of my own free will: somehow the feeling is lighter, calmer. Fruits, vegetables, milk, paneer cheese - that's it. First year life together I tried to accustom my husband to Russian food. I mix Olivier - he won’t eat it, damn it, even vegetarian. But you can’t make herring under a fur coat; there are no such products. There are girls who, even after thirty years, are not accustomed to Indian food: they go to the store at the Russian Embassy in Delhi, where our products are exorbitantly expensive: they are tough, they creak, but they buy them.”
“Fool, ruined karma”
“If you like being a housewife, you live like Christ in your bosom,” says the 57-year-old Lyudmila, who moved to India in 1984 from Saratov. - Just take care of the house, and they shower you with gifts, pamper you, cherish you, carry you in their arms. I gave birth to my first child - my father-in-law and mother-in-law gave me gold; I didn’t know what to do with the bracelets, rings, earrings. They love children, they dote on them... They spoil them so much that you get scared. They don’t drink: Indians, for the most part, rarely drink alcohol; it’s not in their culture. If someone comes home drunk, they gather the advice of relatives and scold them: he is a fool, they say, he has ruined his karma. Morals are strict: if I wear European clothes, the dress must be below the knee, this is not Goa, where everyone walks around half naked. I love Indian sari. Great thing: size doesn’t matter, I bought the material, wrapped it up and went for myself. I was bored at first, of course, I didn’t know what to do. You’re always stuck at home; if you go out for a walk alone, it’s not accepted; you have to be with either your sister or your husband’s mother. I used to think that in India there were whole crowds of people dancing on the sidewalks, like in the movies. Oh, I was wrong."
It is surprising that girls from the regions of Russia, having arrived in India, speak local dialects, wear saris, learned to cook complex Indian dishes and cope with the heat: although, of course, it was very difficult for them. Here's my word of honesty: we don't value our women the way they truly deserve.
After seven years of working in the Russian office of Home Credit Bank, I was invited to the Philippines for two years, and from there I moved to the Indian branch - and stayed there for almost a year and a half. I chose India as a professional challenge: the opportunity to take part in the development of a bank in a country where about 1.3 billion people live does not come every day.
When I first came to India for “reconnaissance”, it seemed to me that it had a lot in common with the Philippines. In fact, the only thing they have in common is that they are in the same part of the world. Otherwise there is little similarity. People, culture, market, business practices - everything had to be studied anew.
India is so interesting and strange that it seems as if you are in several eras at once. Here wild tribes who kill foreigners who come to them. Are there cities with metro, modern shopping centers and City. There are people who are far below the poverty line and live on the streets. At the same time, there are super rich people. According to Wealth X research, in 2017, India fourth place in the world in terms of the number of dollar billionaires - after the USA, China and Germany. According to this indicator, it has overtaken, for example, Switzerland, Russia and the UK.
View from the balcony of a guest house in Udaipur
The ancient city of Varanasi. India is an amazing country to travel
Residents of Varanasi
In the center of Old Delhi
Locals in the center of Old Delhi
This gigantic stratification between rich and poor is also reflected in Indian life. It can be said that in overall quality of things produced for the mass consumer is lower in India than in Russia. But at the same time, you can buy goods and more High Quality, if you agree to pay more.
Housing
I live and work in Gurgaon, a satellite city next to the capital of India, New Delhi - almost like Balashikha or Korolev for Moscow, only larger (about 800,000 people live there). Gurgaon is considered a major industrial and financial center. Many head offices are located here international companies, for example, from the field of consulting or IT. Therefore, the quality of life in Gurgaon is not only for expats, but also for local residents- noticeably different in better side from living somewhere in Coimbatore or Allahabad.
Flat rent
Many Indians live for several generations under one roof: grandmother, parents, son - perhaps with his wife. For this reason they often have or remove large apartments with several bedrooms. The cost of rent can vary tenfold depending on the prestige of the house and the area.
So, an apartment (or townhouse) with an area of about 120 sq. m without furniture and in a regular area of Gurgaon can be rented for 30 thousand rupees (27,600 rubles) per month. But in a guarded residential complex with a park on the territory, renting a four-room apartment (living room and three bedrooms) will start from 120 thousand rupees (110,400 rubles). To this amount you will need to add the cost of maintaining the territory, including home repairs - about 30 thousand rupees (27,600 rubles) per quarter. You will also have to pay 20– 30 thousand rupees (18,400– 27,600 ₽) per year for access to services on the territory of the complex: swimming pool, gym, cafe, parking. If the apartment is rented without furniture and equipment, all this can be rented (approximately 30 thousand rupees per month, or 27,600 rubles).
Public utilities
The weather in Delhi changes quite dramatically from season to season: in the middle of winter at night the temperature can drop to 6– 8 degrees Celsius, and in summer time during the day - reach 48 degrees. In the summer, everyone uses air conditioning and greatly overpays for electricity: up to 10 thousand rupees (9200 rubles) per month. There is no central heating in India, so in winter some people turn on radiators - with them you have to pay about 5 thousand rupees (4600 rubles) per month for electricity. The rest of the year, bills are approximately 3 thousand rupees (2,760 rubles) per month.
Gurgaon, a golf course and a view of a residential high-rise for rich Indians and expats. Smog
Golf course in smog haze
In Moscow
My rental apartment in Gurgaon is 15– 20 minutes drive from Cyber City - this is a corporate business park, something like Moscow City. This roughly corresponds to the Dorogomilovsky district of Moscow (near the Park Pobedy metro station).
Rent a three-room apartment in this area, according to Domofond.ru, costs an average of 105 thousand rubles per month. A four-room apartment in an elite residential complex"Sparrow Hills" , for example, for 175 thousand ₽. Average cost of utilities for a similar apartment, according to Numbeo, is 8300 ₽.
Directions
Public transport
Gurgaon has a fairly comfortable metro system. You can get to the center of Delhi on it in 40– 45 minutes. One trip on the metro costs 65 rupees (60 RUR), but if you buy a pass, you can save 10%. It turns out that 60 trips per month will cost 3,240 rupees (2,981 rubles).
Also in Delhi and in neighboring cities you can travel by shuttle - a bus that travels non-stop to the final station. A package of 30 bus trips costs 2,370 rupees (2,180 rubles). You can pay for travel and top up your account through the mobile application.
Taxi
There are two main taxi providers in India - Uber and Ola. They are cheaper than in Moscow, but also of lower quality in terms of cars, cleanliness, driver skills and knowledge. Traffic in India is chaotic, with drivers constantly changing directions, driving in the middle of the road and honking at each other. It will be extremely difficult to communicate with a taxi driver if you don’t know Hindi. Although, to be fair, in Russia taxi drivers hardly speak English better.
A taxi ride from Gurgaon to Delhi center will cost 400– 500 rupees (368 – 460 ₽), depending on traffic jams. During rush hour, a 30 km journey takes 1.5– 2 hours. For those who often travel by taxi, Uber offers a profitable service: you can buy a package for a month for 250 rupees (230 rubles), and then any trip will cost 39 rupees (35 rubles).
Taxi in Kolkata
In the center of Old Delhi
Five traffic controllers at one traffic light teach motorists to stop at red, Cyber City, Gurgaon
In the center of Old Delhi
Also popular in India are tuk-tuks, or three-wheeled auto-rickshaws. It is curious that tuk-tuk drivers accept payments not only in cash, but also by transfer to a mobile wallet. Imagine: an Indian landscape, a cow is walking along the road and chewing plastic, a tuk-tuk is driving nearby - and then the driver takes out a smartphone, opens the application (it’s called Paytm), scans the QR code and accepts payment for the trip. Amazing!
In Moscow
Card for one trip on the Moscow metro and on ground transport costs 55 ₽. It is more profitable to pay for travel using the Troika card; each trip with it will cost 38 ₽. For those who often travel by metro or buses, the most profitable option is to sign up for a package of 60 trips with Troika for 1,900 rubles.
Popular taxi services in Moscow include aggregator applications Uber, Gett and Yandex.Taxi. A trip, for example, from Tsaritsyno Park to VDNKh (distance about 30 km) will cost 700 ₽. A taxi from the center of Balashikha near Moscow to the Moscow Kremlin will cost about the same. Taxi trips within Moscow for medium distances cost an average of 300– 500 ₽.
Food
Products
Most Indians are vegetarians and do not eat meat or eggs (although the trend is changing recently). In the state of Haryana, where Gurgaon is located, eating beef is generally prohibited by law. In exchange, it is proposed to eat buffalo meat; it can be bought for 400 rupees (368 rubles) per kg.
The main emphasis on store shelves is on vegetables and all kinds of seasonings. All year round Fruits are sold - bananas, watermelons, pineapples. January is strawberry season, summer is mango and lychee season.
My girlfriend and I usually buy food in supermarkets. There are both local (Le Marche) and international brands, such as Spar. You can order food online from Amazon.in, they not only deliver packaged food items but also fresh vegetables and fruits. You can create a basket that will “come” to you regularly.
In total, it takes us about 15 to buy groceries.– 20 thousand rupees (13,800– 18,400 ₽) per person per month. To compare food prices in Gurgaon and Moscow, I have compiled a table. For Gurgaon these are average prices, but for a visitor they may be higher than for a local. It's a matter of choosing the quality of the products, knowing the places and the ability to bargain.
|
Product |
Gurgaon |
Moscow |
|
Milk, 1 l |
47 rupees (43 ₽) |
67 RUR |
|
White bread, 500 g |
30 rupees (28 ₽) |
40 ₽ |
|
White rice, 1 kg |
71 rupees (65 ₽) |
70 ₽ |
|
Eggs, 12 pcs. |
77 rupees (71 ₽) |
82 RUR |
|
Local cheese, 1 kg |
307 rupees (282 ₽) |
553 RUR |
|
Chicken breasts, 1 kg |
287 rupees (264 ₽) |
275 RUR |
|
Apples, 1 kg |
154 rupees (142 ₽) |
91 RUR |
|
Bananas, 1 kg |
57 rupees (52 ₽) |
61 RUR |
|
Potatoes, 1 kg |
23 rupees (21 ₽) |
37 RUR |
|
Tomatoes, 1 kg |
38 rupees (35 ₽) |
139 RUR |
|
Water, 1.5 l |
28 rupees (26 ₽) |
45 RUR |
|
TOTAL: |
1119 rupees (1030 ₽) |
1460 ₽ |
Source: Numbeo.com Prices are rounded to the nearest ruble.
Cafes and restaurants
There are a lot of expats in Gurgaon, so here big choice not only local, but also European cuisine. In addition to Indian, Italian and Asian restaurants are especially common. True, they also have a local flavor: for example, Italian pizza is reminiscent of Indian wheat cakes naan, and pasta or noodles are most often drowned in sauce- similar to curry.
The Indians themselves love national cuisine with tandoori, curry, rice. And bread cakes - they are made from different flours, with water, with or without yeast. At the same time, products cooked in a closed oven, tandoori, are always considered a snack. And curry (pieces of meat, vegetables or cheese in a large amount of sauce) is the main dish. One of the most popular Indian dishes among expats is butter chicken, chicken in a creamy tomato sauce. I also love palak paneer - unleavened cheese in a thick green sauce made from spinach leaves. In southern India, the cuisine is slightly different, there is more seafood, and coconut milk is often added to curries.
Flower market in Varanasi
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Pan merchant (pan is tobacco with spices that is placed under the lip)
Vegetable market in Old Delhi
Food prices can vary greatly. You can buy lunch on the street - eat a dosa (a flour pancake from South India) and drink lassi (a spicy yogurt drink) - for 50 rupees (46 RUR). Can you have lunch at good restaurant with wine for 5 thousand rupees (4600 rubles), and the bulk of the cost will be alcohol, on which there is a very high tax in the state of Haryana (15%).
In business centers of Gurgaon average cost lunches are 500– 700 rupees (460 – 644 ₽) per serving. By local standards it is quite expensive. But the final cost of lunch will be even higher: you need to take into account the amount of taxes of 5%, which is not indicated in the price list, and about 10% of the service charge - it is included in the bill automatically, but you can negotiate.
There is a stereotype that in India you need to be very careful when trying food from public catering, otherwise there is a risk of poisoning. My family and I have never encountered this - probably because we avoid “suspicious” places and choose only proven street food. It is also possible that some tourists confuse poisoning with the body’s adaptation to an unfamiliar climate, water and food.
In Moscow
You can taste Indian dishes in several establishments Russian capital. For example, in the vegetarian cafe “Jagannath” you can eat palak paneer for 120 ₽, in the Indian restaurant “Khadjurao” - butter chicken for 790 ₽, and in “Darbas” you can drink lassi for 300 ₽.
Business lunches in Moscow City cost an average of 300– 450 ₽.
Internet and mobile communications
Until recently, India had three major mobile operators - Vodafone, Airtel and Idea. In 2016, the richest Indian billionaire another network - Jio. And this served as a tangible impetus for the development of the mobile communications market in India. Jio came with very low tariffs and the fastest mobile internet in the country and allowed many users to go online for the first time. So, they launched a tariff plan with a smartphone included, which can be rented for a small fee.
This forced other operators to significantly reduce tariffs. So now mobile communications in India are very cheap. For example, a tariff plan for 28 days with unlimited calls and 1 GB of Internet per day will cost 169 rupees (156 ₽). A package for 82 days with 2 GB of Internet per day will cost 499 rupees (459 rubles).
Home Internet in Gurgaon it is also cheap and relatively stable. My tariff includes approximately 50 GB of Internet per month, with the remainder carried over to the next term - and in 1 year and 2 months I have accumulated a whole terabyte of unused Internet, although I often watch online TV in HD format. Such internet costs me 1,300 rupees (1,196 rubles) per month.
In Moscow
In Moscow with mobile communications A similar story happened when the Tele-2 operator entered the market. The cheapest package with conditions similar to Indian ones (30 GB of Internet, unlimited calls within the network and 800 minutes outside of it) costs 700 ₽ per month. Home Internet from most providers is completely unlimited, and its price is on average 500 ₽ per month.
Entertainment
Gurgaon is located next to Delhi, where there are many famous attractions - the 12th century brick minaret Qutub Minar, the tomb of the Mongol padishah Humayun, the historical citadel of Red Fort. For foreign tourists, visiting each of them will cost approximately 500 rupees (460 rubles), but for locals it will cost only 20 rupees (18 rubles). The discount also applies to those who work in India and pay taxes here.
Monkey temple in Jaipur
Evening performance in Udaipur. This woman is dancing on broken glass
Taj Mahal and surrounding area
Indian cinema is known far beyond the country's borders, and it's easy to guess that locals love going to the cinema. There is an IMAX cinema in Gurgaon where they show Hollywood blockbusters in English with subtitles - a ticket for such a session will cost about 500 rupees (460 rubles). But in general, Indians are unlikely to be very interested in American films. Cinemas in small towns or villages show only local films, and a ticket there can be bought for 30 rupees (28 rubles).
In Moscow
Visiting the capital's popular attractions is not a cheap pleasure. Ticket to architectural ensemble The Cathedral Square of the Moscow Kremlin costs 500 ₽, for entry to the Armory Chamber you will have to pay another 700 ₽. An entrance ticket to St. Basil's Cathedral on Red Square will cost 500 ₽. There are no discounts for local residents, but there are benefits for schoolchildren, students and pensioners. IMAX movie tickets will cost 400– 600 ₽, depending on the location of the cinema and show time.
Money
Indians are born negotiators; they love to bargain. They are very reluctant to make concessions if they see the needs of another, and vice versa, they are ready to offer profitable terms, if necessary, is on their side.
Recently I was selling my things online. And absolutely all potential buyers demanded huge discounts for the fact that the items had already been used - despite the fact that they were all almost new! Let's say, for my advertisement of a price of 17 thousand rupees (15,640 rubles), I received bids of 3 thousand rupees (2,760 rubles). Of course, there were more adequate proposals. But all discussions had to be conducted for a very long time, without rushing.
Payments and Banking
In November 2016 in India monetary reform: the authorities removed old-style banknotes of 500 and 1000 rupees (460 and 920 rubles) from circulation in order to bring the country’s economy out of the shadows and force businessmen to pay taxes. These bills accounted for about 90% of all cash in the country. For the first few weeks, it was possible to exchange small amounts for new banknotes, but then the government stopped the exchange and left the only option - to deposit the money. Huge queues lined up at banks, and there were even riots in some Indian cities. However, the reform has given a big boost to cashless payments and the use of mobile wallets. This is partly why every tuk-tuk driver accepts payment via smartphone.
India has a very complex banking system and is heavily regulated by the government. There are universal banks licensed for all products. There are depository financial companies - those who can only accept deposits from the population, but do not have the right to lend to them. Credit companies, in turn, are prohibited from accepting deposits. Literally every field of activity has its own narrow finance company: some finance construction, others finance cars or household appliances.
Salary
Let me remind you once again about the gap between rich and poor and about quite high level of life in Gurgaon compared to the rest of India. The average salary of a recent graduate in an entry-level mass position, say, a call center employee, is 10– 15 thousand rupees (9200– 13,800 ₽) per month. Specialists from 6– With 8 years of experience they earn around 100 thousand rupees (92 thousand rubles) per month. At the same time, graduates good universities, which are in the top 10– 20 according to their academic performance in their course, they can count on employment in some large corporation and a monthly salary of about 150 thousand rupees (138 thousand rubles) immediately after studying.
In Moscow in 2018, according to Moscow City Statistics Service, the average salary was 78,946 ₽ - this is also a figure before taxes.
Average expenses per month:
|
Expenses |
Gurgaon |
Moscow |
|
Rent ½ apartment |
65,000 rupees (59,800 ₽) (1/2 apartment with three bedrooms in a gated complex) |
RUB 87,500 (1/2 of a four-room apartment in an elite residential complex) |
|
Payment of ½ utilities |
2500 rupees (2300 ₽) |
4150 ₽ |
|
Metro, 60 trips |
3240 rupees (2,981 RUR) |
1900 ₽ |
|
Taxi, 2 times a week |
1362 rupees (1253 ₽) (Uber package) |
3200 ₽ (in Moscow for medium distances) |
|
Purchasing products from the list, 2 times a week |
8952 rupees (8236 ₽) |
11,680 RUR |
|
Business lunch, 5 times a week |
13,200 rupees (12,144 ₽) |
7500 ₽ |
|
mobile connection |
169 rupees (156 ₽) (28 days) |
700 ₽ (month) |
|
Home Internet |
1300 rupees (1196 ₽) |
500 ₽ |
|
Entertainment (2 cinema tickets, 1 museum ticket) |
1020 rupees (938 ₽) (museum ticket for residents) |
1500 ₽ |
|
TOTAL: |
96,743 rupees (89,004 ₽) |
118,630 RUR |
Prices are converted into rubles at the rate of 1 rupee = 0.92 ₽.
Total:
India: 96,743 rupees (89,004 RUR)
Moscow: 118,630 ₽
When calculating the total expenses, we used the prices indicated in the text. If it was specified price range, the arithmetic mean was calculated. When writing the text, Sravni.ru did not collaborate with any company or brand.
Text: Victoria Krundysheva
ABOUT THE LIFE OF INDIAN WOMEN we learn either from Bollywood classics like Zita and Gita or from news reports: while vivacious beauties in colorful saris sing on screen, in the real world women are exposed to sulfuric acid and during sterilization operations. Recently social media flew around, in which the position of women is compared to cows - not in favor of the former.
In Indian culture, a woman is still assigned only two roles: depending on her age, she is perceived either as an extension of the man (daughter or wife), or as a mother of the family - a guardian hearth and home. In both the first and second cases, the woman has no real voice, that is, her life completely depends on the will of the man. In the last few years, the country has started talking openly about domestic and sexual violence, about and even about. We asked Victoria Krundysheva, who moved to India five years ago, to talk about the origins of cruel practices and what is happening to Indian women today.
Self-immolation and the legend of Sati
Hindu mythology is metaphorical and open to interpretation - it has many strong and independent female images, but the patriarchal structure allows only one interpretation of mythological plots. The ideal wife and role model for Indian girls was Sati (Savitri), the heroine of the ancient epic “Mahabharata”. Savitri’s main quality is her endless love for her husband: according to legend, the princess followed her beloved into the afterlife after his death and, thanks to her cunning and ingenuity, defeated the local ruler, rescuing both her husband and herself. Over time, Savitri's story transformed: in later retellings of the myth, it is no longer the wisdom of the princess that comes to the fore, but the fact that her loyalty and worship of her husband forced her to follow him into the afterlife. The name “sati” was given to a cruel tradition that obliges a widow, after the death of her husband, to ascend the funeral pyre and burn alive along with her husband’s body - in order to meet the afterlife with him.
Refusal to voluntarily say goodbye to life was considered dishonorable. Women who did not want to burn with their deceased husband were not respected and shunned, and even more often punished - that is, they were burned anyway. The ritual of sati, which was widespread throughout the subcontinent, is a vivid illustration of the position of women in Indian society: the first evidence of this practice dates back to the 1st century BC, and it gained its greatest popularity in the 1800s. Although over time, sati rituals were performed less and less often - they were preserved only in remote villages and the poorest areas of India - the tradition was finally eradicated only after the Prevention of Sati Act in 1987, which was adopted after a high-profile case of self-immolation 18 -year-old widow.
Dauri and femicide
Femicide (female infanticide, or the killing of newborn girls) in India has been practiced for centuries and continues to exist today. True, the killing of babies is coming to naught, since the opportunity has arisen to do so. There are many reasons for the appearance of femicide: general poverty, the need for hard physical labor, which is mainly done by men, and the obligation of the bride’s parents to pay a rich dowry to the son-in-law’s family. And although, like sati, femicide was prohibited during British rule, for a long time it remained one of the major social problems in India.
In 1991, the government’s “Child Protection Program” was adopted, and a year later the “Lullaby Program” was adopted, which allows children to be anonymously placed for adoption. Some states provide benefits to families with two or more daughters. Despite government measures, femicide has significantly affected the demographics of the country: today in India there are 100 girls born for every 110 boys born. To stop selective abortions, the state banned procedures to determine the sex of a child - however, in underground clinics this can still be done for 3-8 thousand rupees (about the same amount in rubles). In 2016 alone, twelve doctors were suspended from work on suspicion of violating the ban. In the fight against femicide, government and non-profit organizations have used social media and marketing campaigns, their most famous slogan being “Save a Girl Child.”
The ancient custom of dauri - the name given to the tradition that obliges the bride's family to pay the groom's family - is another illustration of how a woman in the Indian image is considered a burden. You can pay with money or “gifts”: real estate, cars, jewelry and expensive household appliances. Dauri was officially banned in 1961, but dowry payments are difficult to track, so the practice continues to this day.
The Dauri system promotes the idea that men are more valuable than women and have inherent privileges. It permeates the entire matrimonial system of India - this is especially noticeable when searching for a bride, when absurd demands are made on a woman: the education, talents, skin color and appearance of a potential spouse are assessed. The best bride is considered to be the one who promises not to work after the wedding, but to take care of the house and children exclusively.
Bollywood and stereotypes
Bollywood reigns supreme in the minds and hearts of Indians of all ages - that's why gender stereotypes, which he broadcasts, deserve special attention. Until recently female images in Bollywood they were presented either as heroines, always secondary to the main character, or as participants in the so-called item numbers (musical inserts). The heroine of item number is a seductive beauty who appears in the film for one song and does not add anything new to the plot, but simply pleases the male eye. The Bollywood dichotomy of "woman-angel" - "woman-whore" has greatly influenced the worldview of Indians: society labels a woman as "bad" or "good" in accordance with the film standard.
The extent to which women are objectified in Indian cinema is difficult to comprehend without understanding the lyrics: the compositions accompanying item numbers often have explicit sexual overtones and openly encourage violence. “It doesn’t matter whether you say yes or no. You are mine, Kiran,” this line from famous song everyone in India knows it by heart. It sounds from the lips of the cult actor Shahrukh Khan. Rapper Honey Singh, whose tracks are often featured in Bollywood blockbusters, is constantly accused of misogyny. The singer does not hide his attitude towards women: he recorded an entire album about sexual violence, which is called “Rapist”.
Men hum these songs on the street when some girl seems attractive to them. Largely thanks to Bollywood, street harassment is considered normal. In popular comedies, for example, “Grand Masti”, the main characters pester the heroine on the street and follow her until she gets tired of the attention and “gives up.” From such scenes, viewers learn that a woman who is disinterested or openly rejects her boyfriend is not a stop sign, but a challenge and a sign that he needs to pester more actively, to “want” the girl.
Recently, there has been an encouraging trend in Indian cinema: films are featuring more and more strong heroines and female protagonists (for example, in the films “Queen”, “Kahaani” and “Mary Kom”). However, mass cinema still relies on “testosterone” comedies and blockbusters, which bring in a lot of income.
Nirbhaya and the land of violence
A turning point in the debate on women's rights occurred in December 2012, when the entire country learned of the horrific gang rape in Delhi. The city is called the “rape capital” - this is where most brutal crimes against women occur.
On December 14, a 23-year-old girl (her name was not disclosed in the press, giving her the pseudonym Nirbhaya) went to the cinema with her boyfriend. After the session, they boarded a bus, where there were six men, including one minor; they brutally beat the girl and raped her, and then left her naked and bleeding on the road. A young man who tried to protect Nirbhaya was hit on the head, but survived, and his companion died in hospital two weeks later due to numerous injuries internal organs. The crime received unprecedented publicity and caused a strong reaction both in India and in the world. Protests took place in Delhi and other cities, and the rapists were arrested and sentenced to death after a lengthy trial.
Nirbhaya's death has sparked a major debate about the status of women in India, but the issue remains unresolved. Politicians talk a lot about how it would be nice to ensure the safety of women and toughen penalties for rape, but the crimes are not decreasing, and many of them are brutal. In India's capital Delhi, women try not to go out alone after dark.
It is worth noting that women are primarily victims of violence and discrimination. Indian origin, and foreign women, even if they live in the country for a very long time, feel safer. This may be due to the fact that crimes against foreigners attract the attention of government services and consulates, and the police take them more seriously so as not to cause an international scandal. Foreign women, especially from Europe, are considered more “loose” and - to use Bollywood terminology - more “item”, that is, performing a decorative and entertainment function.
Victim blaming and Western values
After the Nirbhaya case and other high-profile crimes, Indians began to openly demand a response from the authorities. But most political and religious leaders not only refuse to take responsibility for solving the problem, but add fuel to the fire by blaming the victims of violence and openly supporting patriarchal attitudes.
One of the country's largest religious leaders, Asaram Bapu, commented on the mass protests in 2012: “The victim is no less guilty than the rapists. She should not have resisted, but called out to the rapists as brothers and begged them to stop. She shouldn't have gotten on the bus and gone to the movies with a guy." “Women should not hang around the streets with men unless they are related to them. Such cases are the result of the influence of Western culture and clothing style,” said the leader of the right political party"Rashtriya Swayamsevak Sangh" Mohan Bhaguoth. Shifting the blame to “Western influence” is a typical technique for politicians who advocate “preserving traditional Indian culture.” This apparently populist position ignores the fact that many women from traditional families who have no access to Western culture are subjected to violence.
In response to demands for capital punishment for rapists, politician Mulayam Singh Yadav said: “Boys behave like boys, is it really necessary to hang them for this?” Progressive sections of Indian society are horrified by such statements, but most of population falls under the influence of populists. Generally, Indians still believe that victimhood is “ ” and in some cases, violence can be justified.
Women who have experienced violence rarely go to the police: due to corruption, many cases do not reach court, and victims are often treated poorly. Police officers make sarcastic comments and openly humiliate women, and cases of violence in police stations are known. Human rights activists believe that in 9 out of 10 cases of rape, the victim does not report it to the authorities, which is why the criminals feel absolute impunity and permissiveness.
Talk about equality
There is still no law in India prohibiting domestic violence. Women face harassment every day public transport, lewd comments on the street and judgmental looks from older people who don’t like their “too modern” or “too revealing” clothes. However, there are changes for the better: in the last few years, violence has finally begun to be talked about, and popular media and celebrities have realized how much they influence society - and are now openly calling for respect for women.
More and more media and social platforms are writing about equality - and for the first time in many years they are calling for actively fighting sexism and speaking out against violence. Bollywood is also reacting to the changes: the film “Pink”, starring one of the most famous and respected actors in the country, Amitabh Bachchan, became a sensation in 2016. leading role. This film touches on the issue of victim blaming, talks about the principle of consent and respect for women's rights.
Modern India is just beginning to talk about feminism. As in any entrenched patriarchal system, ideas of equal rights are met with resistance. You can already see that millennial girls are more independent than their older sisters and mothers, and are ready to stand up for themselves - but emancipation will clearly take many years.
Photos: Wikimedia Commons, Reliance Entertainment, Getty Images (1)
India attracts with its unconventional beauty, openness, and friendliness of its people. Whatever aspect of life you look at, everywhere modernity coexists with traditionalism, which is often surprising. Maybe that’s why people evaluate life in India differently.
India is a land of contrasts
The multinationality of the country, the abundance of languages and religions is striking. The “diversity” of the population is explained by the centuries-old mixing of nationalities due to migration processes.
Anyone who has lived in India for a long time is not surprised by the local color, slums next to palaces. At first it is difficult for beginners to take for granted the many cows and dogs on the city streets, the chaos on the roads, the dirt, the variety of smells, and the constant hum. And the fact that the standard of living of Indians varies greatly. There are plenty of millionaires here, but many more beggars.
It is not easy to answer the question: “Is India a poor or rich country?” Some sources write that a third of all poor people live in this state. Moreover, poverty is not considered a vice here. “It’s written in the family” - main law karma. Social inequality is off the charts: there is an insurmountable gap between the richest and the poorest.
Ecology
Serious ecological problems harm the country and threaten the state of the world as a whole. Among the main ones are deforestation, soil depletion, air and water pollution. There is a lot of precipitation, but the water quickly evaporates, and contamination of the remaining water makes it inaccessible to large quantities population. Smog in cities is a consequence of oversaturation with transport, the use of old cars, and the use of low-quality gasoline.
Environmental problems are also influenced by the fact that India is a country where residents do not care about cleanliness environment even at the household level: garbage is thrown right outside the threshold of homes, even in prosperous neighborhoods.
But man does not harm the flora and fauna - the mentality and beliefs are not the same. There are many nature reserves, numerous projects are being implemented to protect forests, coral reefs, etc.
It is impossible to unequivocally answer the question of how people live in India. Life depends on wealth. Wealthy city residents have apartments or houses, cars and even servants. But much more families barely making ends meet.
Life in India is absolutely not organized. People are indifferent to comfort and convenience. Most apartments have not only no hot water supply, but also no toilets.
Cloth
The most popular women's outfit is the sari - a piece of fabric that envelops a woman from head to toe. We also love the shalwar kameez - trousers and tunic that are narrow at the ankles. Brilliant, numerous jewelry is at a premium.
Men (especially in rural areas) also wear cotton cloth with a shirt on top. But there are also jackets that fasten with buttons - sherwanis, sometimes resembling a coat in length. The traditional headdress is a turban, the shape of which depends on the area, faith, and interest.
Given that India is a conservative country, travelers should dress modestly. It is best to wear loose, figure-concealing clothes made from light natural fabrics.
Product prices
Cheapness somewhat brightens up the life of the common people in India. 100 rupees at the beginning of April 2020 corresponded to 88 rubles. Compare. The cost in the markets of vegetables is up to 20 rupees, fruits - from 25 to 100 (mangosteens), fish - 200-250, lobsters - 1200. In stores, chicken can be bought for 100, beef - for 220, a dozen eggs - for 50, milk - for 40 rupees. Food prices in India in 2020 are surprising.
Features of Indian cuisine
For Hindus, food and everything related to its preparation has a sacred meaning associated with family life.
There are many national characteristics. For example, excessive love for hot and spicy dishes. Europeans are not ready for this. Unexpected combinations of products are also appreciated. Fried bananas in tandem with cucumbers and chili peppers are not the most surprising combination on a plate.
The predominant food is rice, peas, vegetables, cheese, tortillas. The preferred meat is lamb, goat, and poultry. Due to beliefs, beef and pork are generally not consumed. Desserts using milk, nuts, rice, honey, fruits, and spices are varied and tasty.
It is important for travelers to remember simple rules:
- wash your hands more often;
- drink only bottled water;
- try national dishes with caution, order them without local spices;
- do not neglect fennel, which can be found in any establishment Catering and will help avoid stomach problems.
Families are large, several generations live in one house. You are allowed to marry only a representative of your caste and religion, by agreement of the parents young man and girls. There are usually a lot of children. There are practically no divorces. The head of the family is the eldest man, he solves all the problems of the household, and the money he earns is given to him.
Many people are interested in how women live in India? Also in different ways. For the poor, already in the womb a girl becomes unwanted, and they try to get rid of her. If born, they can unobtrusively contribute to leaving for another world. This is because the girl will have to be married off. And to do this, pay a kind of dowry. This means that you have to strain all your life to save the required amount. She will not have the right to vote, even when she becomes a wife. She has to work a lot, unless, of course, she is married to a very wealthy man. This one doesn’t work anywhere, she has a lot of beautiful clothes and jewelry, she is not offended, especially if she gives birth to sons. But she is not treated the same as a poor woman.
Violence and discrimination affect women of Indian origin to a greater extent; foreign women feel freer. Russian wives speak good or bad about the country and their life in it, depending on whether they got married successfully. If a man is independent and decides to live outside the clan, or if the parents’ family is educated and not poor and approves of their son’s choice, then life, one might say, is a success. There will be inconveniences related to climate, nutrition, utilities, but in general everything is not very different from the existence of the average Russian family.
Housing cost
Real estate in India attracts investors due to its affordability. Housing is purchased mainly in big cities and resort areas, where it can be rented out at a profit. They also buy non-residential premises - for trade or production.
The cost of a small apartment in Goa is about 10 thousand dollars. Far away from coastal zone for 60 thousand dollars you can buy a spacious apartment with good repair. In the largest cities the price of 1 sq. m of housing - at least 950 dollars, and often reaches 20 thousand.
You can buy a hut in the countryside. Only the quality of housing is low and there are no amenities. In addition, you will have to always be where the Indians live around. Not everyone likes it.
The purchased property must be declared and the tax on it must be paid on time, the amount of which is approved by each state independently.
Where do they work?
The national unemployment rate is through the roof. In this situation, finding a job for an immigrant from Russia, even a good specialist, problematic. You can evaluate the opportunities in the article “Working in India”.
The authorities identify illegal labor and expel it from the country.
Salary rates
The average salary of Indians is significantly lower than in other countries. Based on per capita income, the average worker would earn approximately $2,700 per year. But a third of the total cash flow goes to highly paid employees, who make up no more than 10%.
The minimum wage for villages is 4 thousand rupees (60 dollars), more than half of all workers receive it. Practically this living wage. The hourly average can be only 30-60 cents. Employees of private companies receive more ($120), less - state employees ($75). Salary levels vary by industry.
In order for an immigrant to obtain a work visa, he must find a job that will pay over 2 thousand dollars a month. This is possible if you manage to get a job in a foreign company, for example, in the IT field. They pay based on European values.
Education system in India
The level of general education in the country is low, many illiterate people. But the education system in 2020 includes all traditional stages: preschool, school, vocational, higher and postgraduate.
State and non-state education. The second is intended for both children and adolescents, as well as adults. A 40-year-old schoolboy is not uncommon.
Kindergartens - preparatory groups of schools, already here the acquaintance with English language, mandatory for study at school, where children come from 4 years old. For the first 10 years they study for free and according to a single program, then students are divided into those who will master professions and those who will continue their education.
Average private school paid, but accessible to the average family.
Higher education represented by more than two hundred universities, mainly focused on European standards. Depending on the length of study and future profession, students receive bachelor's, master's, and doctoral degrees.
For foreigners, admission to local universities gives the right to obtain a residence permit. Diligent study leads to strong knowledge and guarantees decent employment in the country. Therefore, studying in India is popular among those who would like to stay in the country for a long time.
Education in India is no worse than in Europe, America and China. Universities produce well-trained specialists. Russians have the opportunity to study for free, count on a hostel and a scholarship. The main condition is excellent knowledge of the English language.
Medical level
There is no free healthcare in India. There are many private clinics with a narrow specialization. Their services are cheaper than in public medical centers - most of them are well equipped, with highly qualified doctors who receive good salaries. Their services are used by wealthy locals and foreigners. The so-called medical tourism is the most developed here. This is facilitated by the low cost of services compared to the USA and Israel, for example. And also commitment traditional methods treatment set out in Ayurveda and which has many followers all over the world, which is used for commercial purposes.
For most local residents, quality healthcare is unaffordable. Hospitals in remote areas serve patients in unsuitable premises, often without electricity, water, or medicine. Theoretically, the help is free, but in reality they charge a fee for the appointment, based on the patient’s income.
Childbirth often takes place at home, under the supervision of a midwife or mother-in-law. If in a clinic, it is usually offered C-section. Natural childbirth must be negotiated additionally. The statistics are inexorable: maternal and child mortality in India is perhaps the highest in the world.
Tourists need to purchase medical insurance, which includes a basic insurance option and, if desired, various options.
Russians in India
There are no more than a thousand Russians with Indian citizenship and permanent residence; they mostly settled in Delhi. But many more live unofficially. It is believed that Russians come to India for spirituality, searching for the meaning of life, and improving in yoga. There are also quite a few businessmen, but most of the “Russian Indians” are the wives of local men. To understand how Russians live in India, you need to talk to them. Exotic country, natural, living conditions specific and pose a serious test for Europeans.
Attitude of native residents to Russian immigrants
The close cooperation between India and the former USSR has influenced the way Russians are viewed today. The memories are pleasant, but they are immediately darkened when immigrants behave inappropriately, not recognizing the traditions, beliefs, and customs of the local residents. For example, ardent Hindus and Muslims treat Christians poorly. Individual cases Russophobia occurs. “Russians” here refer to all immigrants from the former Soviet Union.
Where live
It's easier to meet Russians in major cities and resort areas. In Mumbai, housing is the most expensive, but the city is considered safe to live in. And it’s easier to find a job than, for example, in Delhi, where life is more comfortable and a little cheaper, but unemployment and crime are high. Bangalore is attractive due to its modern infrastructure and reasonable prices for housing, especially rented housing. But the most popular state is Goa, where immigrants mainly flock.
Features of life in Goa
India through the eyes of Russians is, for the most part, “Goa through the eyes of Russians.” And a resort is a resort. The local settlers are happy with life and have no intention of leaving here. Children are sent to English schools, then pay for training at good universities. The tourism business brings in decent income. Service to compatriots occurs not at local, but at European rates. There are many Russian restaurants and shops, you need work force, the owners prefer to take “their own”. Someone lives on odd jobs. Those who know English have a chance to get a job as a salesperson or a tour guide. Masseurs, dancers, and animators are in demand.
True, foreigners have limited rights. But the Russian consulate, if necessary, helps restore justice.
Comparison of lifestyle in India and Russia
The pros and cons of the life of Russians in an ancient, distinctive country can be imagined in comparison with Russia.
| Russia | India | |
| Standard of living | 37th place in the world | 104th place in the world |
| Culture | Needs improvement | Completely absent, social chaos |
| Accessible to the majority of the population | Inaccessible to most of the population | |
| People | People are sociable and friendly for the most part | Closed and uncommunicative with foreigners |
| Society | People are not indifferent to what is happening, they strive to improve things | Indifference to everything. I'm happy with the life I have. |
| Communication | In Russian or any other language | Exclusively in English or Hindi |
| Education | Constant desire to learn new things and improve | Poorly educated population, inability for the majority of residents to study |
India is an extremely interesting, colorful and attractive country for tourists. Few people think about permanent residence. But if you are drawn here spiritually, it will provide an opportunity for self-improvement.
India seems amazing to us, almost fairyland with bright exotic nature, ancient culture and unusual traditions. But those who are going on a tourist trip to this country should find out how people live in India. Because if we ignore the glossy prospectuses travel companies, then everything turns out to be not so rosy and beautiful.
It would probably be correct to say that people here live the same way as in any other country in the world - in different ways. However, the contrasts between wealth and poverty, prosperity and miserable existence, civilization and barbarity are so great that they will shock any European visiting India. It is enough to cite some statistics.
Before going to this amazing country It's worth finding out how people live in India.
- India is a country with a rapidly developing economy. It ranks 2nd in the world in terms of the number of dollar billionaires. But 65% of its population lives in extreme poverty.
- While some people have huge incomes, the other part of the population has no income at all. 30% of Indians are unemployed or rely on odd jobs.
- One of the richest cities in India is Mumbai, where every fourth resident owns a luxurious mansion. And 42% of Indians live in slums and do not even have the opportunity to use normal drinking water.
- By size financial investments India ranks 8th in the world in the development of advanced technologies. But 30% of the population cannot even write.
These are not all contrasts, and, speaking of India, it is difficult to escape the thought that there are two completely different countries. But many tourists returning from there notice first of all the appalling poverty.
Indeed, in our opinion, many people here live in appalling conditions. The caste system, although officially prohibited by the constitution, actually continues to exist. And mostly the population adheres to caste traditions.
The lowest castes, those belonging to the varna of untouchables, live below the poverty line even by the standards of India itself. And if in cities the differentiation is not so noticeable, then in villages untouchables can still do only the dirtiest work.
But they take their position and fate for granted - in history there have never been uprisings and riots of the untouchables. It’s not for nothing that India is called the country of happy poor people.
For thousands of years, the dominant philosophy of Hinduism in society has taught people to calmly endure hardships and accept the world as it is.
