From spring to summer, numerous hybrids and varieties of these herbaceous plants delight with many graceful “bells” against the backdrop of velvety leaves. Abundant flowering, original varieties, easy care and cultivation of achimenes in almost any room are the reasons for the great interest in them. Plants are placed on window sills or used as hanging flowers in wall pots and hanging baskets.
Achimenes - Latin name genus of flowering plants of the Gesneriaceae family. Natural views originate from Mexico and other regions of Latin America. All Achimenes are small herbaceous perennial plants. Species introduced to Europe are characterized by beautiful flowering and a transition to a dormant state in winter.
- Achimenes have elongated, brittle, scaly rhizomes (rhizomes).
- The height of the above-ground parts of plants is from 20 to 70 cm.
- The stems are numerous, thin, erect, weakly branched, drooping with age.
- The small dark green leaves have denticles along the edge and are arranged oppositely. The plates are rough, briefly pubescent on both sides.
The flower is quite large and blooms for only a few days. The calyx is 5-lobed, usually narrow and short. A flower tube up to 5 cm long grows obliquely from the leaf axil. The graceful cone smoothly or abruptly turns into a bend. The outer edge of the petals of some hybrids has a “fringe”.
A variety of new varieties of terry achimenes:
- Abendrot. The flowers are yellow in color with a peach tint and are quite large in size.
- Abyss. Flowers in shades of dark blue with a light underside.
- Adelaide. A hybrid variety with white flowers up to 6 cm in diameter, with yellow and blue splashes on the petals.
- Alaska Dream. The corollas are white with a greenish or lavender tint.
- Anastasia. Large soft pink flowers with an orange speckled center.
- Bianco Natale. It is considered the largest white-flowered terry variety.
- Double Picotee Rose. White, densely double flowers with a slight lilac tint. Related varieties: Double Blue Rose, Double Pink Rose.
- Christmas Cookie. Large white flowers with a yellow center and pink streaks on the petals.
- Cytro. Large pink double flowers.
- Icy Volga. The author of the variety considers it an ideal terry achimenes. The flowers are large white, with pink-violet strokes.
- Giselle. The corollas are orange-pink in color with a dark spot in the center.
- Shy Sun. Lavender-white semi-double flowers. Miniature variety.
- Yellow English Rose. Huge bright yellow flowers up to 7 cm in diameter. Shades vary depending on the acidity of the substrate.
Some hybrid achimenes bloom in a well-lit place with proper care almost all year round, with the exception of the dormant period (4 months).
Simple achimenes (non-double):
- Aquamarine. Large light blue flowers with brownish streaks.
- Annie Belle. Corollas lavender color.
- Arletta pink. The petals are pink, wavy along the edge. The throat is yellow with brown spots. A related variety has blue flowers.
- Ambroise Verschaffelt. An ampelous plant with white flowers decorated with a blue-violet pattern and a yellow “eye”. The name was given in honor of the Belgian breeder Ambroise Verschaffelt.
- Amie Saliba. Compact bush with large yellow flowers, with orange and purple bordering.
- Apricot Glow. Dark pink flowers with apricot tint.
- Nightfall. Dark red flowers.
- Clouded Yellow. Corollas dim yellow color with brown spots in the throat.
- Fallen Angel. Large white-pink flowers with a darker rim around the edge of the petals. The spot in the throat is yellow with brown streaks.
The Achimenes flower attracted the attention of indoor plant lovers in the 70s of the last century. At that time, species with violet, blue and lilac corollas predominated. Over several decades, hundreds of new varieties and hybrids, as well as double forms, have appeared. The materials for selection are wild species: Achimenes erecta, A. longiflora, A. antirrhina, A. grandiflora.
Basic requirements for cultivation
A lush bush needs a sufficient amount of light and moisture. However, lighting should be diffused and watering should be moderate, without overmoistening the substrate and stagnating water in the pan. It is recommended to humidify the air on hot, dry days, especially during the formation of buds. When the moisture content is 50–70% and other requirements are met, the flowers reach the largest size characteristic of the variety.
At the end of February, when young shoots appear in the form of pubescent light green “threads,” Achimenes is replanted. If necessary, divide the rhizome. If the plant is not moved to another pot, then change the top layer of soil in the old one or add fresh soil.
Home care
Abundantly flowering achimenes feel best at 18–26°C.
If the temperature drops to 12°C or lower, the above-ground parts of the plant may die.
Features of content depending on the season
In spring and summer, Achimenes require light and warmth (without direct scorching sun). You can place pots on the windowsills of western and east direction. In this case, the plants receive soft sunlight in the morning or evening. Some varieties are content with relatively little light. Ampelous forms are less demanding - they are suitable for partially shaded places. Flower pots and baskets are hung near the window.
After flowering ends, in September or October, the withered aerial part of the plant is cut short, and the rhizome is left in the ground. During the rest period, achimenes do not require lighting or watering. The pots are kept at a temperature of 10 to 16°C in October–November. Towards the end of the dormant period, watering is resumed to stimulate growth.
Watering Achimenes
It is important that the soil is moist and well permeable to water. Drainage is required at the bottom to prevent waterlogging. With adequate watering, many new rhizomes are formed, which produce profusely flowering shoots the following season. Plants are sensitive to waterlogging. If some of the water comes out into the pan, it is drained immediately.
Water the flowers with water heated to 25–30°C, with a low calcium content (soft).
- Achimenes water moderately at the beginning of the growing season, as soon as young shoots emerge from the ground. Between irrigations, allow the top layers of the substrate to dry a little. Inside the pot, the soil should remain moist and permeable.
- During flowering, Achimenes requires regular, and in hot weather sunny days abundant watering.
- After flowering ends, they need less moisture. In September, watering is reduced, and after the leaves and stems die, it is stopped.
Soil composition and pot selection
The best substrate mixture for achimenes is leaf soil, lowland peat and quartz sand (2:1:1). Add pieces charcoal. Be sure to pour a layer of perlite or coarse sand at the bottom of the container. It is not recommended to use high-moor peat due to its high acidity and low content nutrients. Most suitable value The pH is in the range of 5–6.5 (slightly acidic or neutral).
If the soil composition is chosen correctly and there is good drainage, then the soil retains its structure for several years. Provided that other care requirements are met, annual replanting can be avoided and the plant’s resistance to disease can be increased.
Fertilizer application
When planting and replanting Achimenes, you can add 1 tbsp. l. granular fertilizer Compo or “Trio mix. Growth and Development" in every pot. The need for nutrients increases during the period active growth. Feed Achimensas once a month with a solution of complete mineral fertilizer(0.1%) or the Fertika complex. The composition should contain potassium, phosphorus, nitrogen and trace elements. Liquid fertilizing begins from the moment growth processes resume.
Nitrogen is most important during shoot formation; the mineral element helps the leaves gain strength. As soon as budding begins, they switch to fertilizing with flower fertilizers with a higher content of phosphorus and potassium. During the dormant period, fertilizers are not needed.
Planting and transplanting
In the spring, in March, when Achimenes begins to grow, it is transplanted into a wide pot or cache-pot. First, the lump of earth is removed from the old container by knocking on the bottom. Then the rhizome is freed from the soil.
How to plant Achimenes:
- A drainage layer of sand or gravel is poured onto the bottom of the pot.
- The pot is half filled with the prepared substrate.
- Scatter 1 tbsp on the surface. l. complete fertilizer, cover with a layer of soil on top.
- The rhizomes are distributed on the surface, sprinkled with a substrate 2–3 cm high.
- The soil is slightly compacted and watered with warm water.
- Keep the transplanted plants in a bright place at a temperature of 20–25°C.
Small pieces of rhizome accidentally broken off are not thrown away - they also germinate. Regular watering begins after young shoots appear on the surface.
Rest period
The wilting of Achimenes and preparation for rest begins after the end of flowering. During this period, plants require minimal care. When the shoots dry, the entire above-ground part is cut off. Achimenes can spend the rest period in a cool room with or without windows, in the basement, on the floor in the bathroom, in winter garden or in the garage, if the temperature in the selected room does not fall below 3°C.
Rhizomes in a dormant state consume almost no water. Moisten the soil in the pot 1 or 2 times a month so that the rhizome does not wrinkle.
Towards the end of the dormant period, the growth of new shoots can be stimulated through good lighting and moderate watering.
Features of reproduction
Achimenes is propagated by dividing the rhizome from late February to mid-March. Dormant rhizomes awaken and above-ground shoots begin to grow from them. Achimenez easily tolerates division during this period.
Achimenes can attack aphids, thrips and other pests.
- Thrips colonies quickly cause plant death.
- Spider mites live on the underside of leaves and suck juices from living tissues.
- Viral, fungal and bacterial infections cause great damage.
It is necessary to regularly inspect leaves and buds to identify infected plants.
When viral infection indoor flower should be isolated, and with further progression of the disease, burned.
A common maintenance disease, ring-shaped leaf spots, affects plants that are watered with too cold water or left unprotected in full sun. Buds and flowers do not appear if the rest period is too short and if there is a lack of light after it ends.
Why do the buds turn brown, dry out and leaves fall off?
The reason for the early fall of flower buds is changes in location, improper watering, decreased temperature, lack of nutrients. New varieties of Achimenes are especially sensitive to changes.
Causes of drying and falling leaves, browning of buds:
- air humidity is too low;
- complete drying of the soil in the pot;
- sudden and frequent change of location;
- attack by thrips or spider mites;
- high calcium content in the soil and/or irrigation water.
If you suspect infection or pest infestation requires treatment with pesticides. The insecticidal and acaricidal drug “Topaz” is used against aphids, mites, and thrips. Biofungicides help get rid of fungus.
If problems with achimenes are caused by errors in care, then the situation can be easily corrected. It is necessary to maintain the plant in accordance with lighting requirements, water it and feed it on time. Achimenes leaves falling off in autumn is normal. A dormant period begins, after which new shoots appear.
Occurs great amount plant species that are suitable for both indoor and outdoor cultivation. Moreover, experienced flower growers give preference to those lushly blooming bright flowers that pamper with their beauty for several months and do not require very complex care. One of these special and most popular plants is Achimenes - a closely related brother of the charming violets and gloxinias.
Not only a home flower, but also a decoration for summer terraces
Achimenes is a bright perennial ornamental flowering representative of the Gesneriaceae family. About fifty species of this plant are known to exist.
Achimenes is a small shrub with spreading creeping and erect stems, on which during almost the entire period of active growing season they are located beautiful flowers. The variations in their colors are surprising in their diversity: there are white, yellow, pink, crimson, scarlet, violet, blue colors with variegated inclusions and spots. The leaves of the plant are glossy, with jagged edges, from green to red. The height of the bush usually does not exceed half a meter, and the diameter of the crown reaches 30 cm.
The leaves of Achimenes are glossy with jagged edges.
Achimenes is native to Central and South America. It is most common in Mexico and Jamaica; under natural conditions it prefers to settle in the humid tropics, where the air temperature does not drop below +15 °C.
At home, Achimenes takes root well, but requires warm air and regular watering. Achimenes is one of those perennial plants that completely lose their above-ground parts during the dormant period.
IN summer period You can grow achimenes on open terraces and balconies; it is not afraid of drafts.
Types of Achimenes and their features
Several types of Achimenes are used for decorative cultivation. The most popular ones are presented below.
- Achimenes Ehrenberg. An erect stem 40–50 cm high. Flowers no more than two and a half centimeters in diameter, pale lilac, yellow throat with pink splashes.
- Prostrate. Low-growing shrub (maximum 30 cm). It has purple flowers about 2 cm in diameter, the color of the shoots varies from green to brown.
- Erect. The stem is straight, up to half a meter high. The flowers are small (up to 1 cm) bright red, the shoots have a burgundy tint.
- Long-flowered. Plant height is from ten to thirty centimeters. The flowers are very large compared to their counterparts, sometimes up to 6.5 cm in diameter. Color options: lilac-blue, pink, blue with a white or pale yellow throat.
- Mexican. A medium-sized representative, has drooping shoots and flowers. The color is represented by pink, purple and lilac shades.
- Fringed. A low-growing shrub, the height does not exceed thirty centimeters. The flowers are white, up to 2 cm, with fringed serrations along the edge.
- Ebis. Blue-violet flowers, double, medium size. Low growing compact bush.
- Variegated. The flowers are large, up to five centimeters in diameter, have a yellow throat with splashes and a red corolla. The shoots are also red in color and do not exceed 30 cm in length.
Photo gallery: Achimenes with different colors and shapes of flowers and leaves
Achimenes erecta blooms with bright red buds 
Achimenes mexicanus has drooping shoots and flowers 
Achimenes longiflora has the most large flowers compared to other varieties 
The height of Ehrenberg's achimenes does not exceed half a meter 
Achimenes prostrata has purple buds 
Achimenes varifolia flowers have a red corolla. 
Achimenes fringed has serrations along the edge of the flower.
Video: a beautiful collection of different varieties of Achimenes
Table: conditions of detention depending on the season
| Season | Temperature | Humidity and watering regime | Lighting | Feeding |
| Spring Summer |
|
| Bright sunlight with shading | The first feeding 1.5 months after emergence, then with each watering in half the concentration |
| Autumn | From +20 °С to +25 °С | Watering periodically, not abundantly | ||
| Winter | About +10 °C, but not lower | Never or rarely, just so that the rhizomes do not dry out | Dark place | Not required |
How to plant and replant a flower in a new pot
Every year at the end of winter or beginning of spring the plant needs to be replanted. A pot for achimenes is selected to be small in size and of medium depth. The bottom must have a drainage hole. As a drainage layer (1/3 of the volume of the pot), shards, pebbles, expanded clay and other similar materials with the addition of charcoal are used.
You can buy soil for planting at the store (soil for Saintpaulias is suitable) or prepare it yourself. The planting soil mixture should consist of sand, leaf and turf soil (1/2:2:1) or sand, peat and leaf soil (2:3:6).
Transplantation is carried out using the transshipment method, moving the soil with the flower into a larger container. Transshipment is carried out until mid-summer during the active growing season according to the following scheme:
- Two hours before the procedure, water the flower generously.
- Turn the pot over and carefully remove the soil ball along with the roots.
- Place the plant in a pre-prepared container with drainage, adding soil to the sides.
- Lightly compact the substrate, add more and water generously.
Care
In order for Achimenes to please its owner, it is important to properly care for it.
How much to water and when to feed
Achimenes is a flowering plant, so it needs regular nutrients. During the period of active flowering, fertilizing is carried out twice a month, although ideally fertilizers should be applied in small dosages with each watering. For these purposes, specialized liquids are used. mineral complexes For flowering plants. After flowering ends and the plant enters hibernation mode, no feeding is required.
The flower is moisture-loving, but does not tolerate stagnant water. During the active growing season and flowering, the plant is watered abundantly; with the arrival of cold weather, watering is reduced, and in winter the substrate is periodically moistened to prevent drying out. After the end of the “rest period”, watering is gradually resumed.
Bloom
Achimenes is characterized by abundant and long flowering, which begins in April and stops only with the arrival of cold weather. Withered flowers are regularly removed so as not to spoil the decorative appearance of the plant. Then new buds are not long in coming.
Why do you need to pinch the bush?
To give the bush shape, better branching and increase the number of buds, the plant must be pinched. After the appearance of the fourth pair of leaves, the active “growth points” at the ends of the shoot are removed, which provokes the development and growth of dormant points.
Please note that a flower that has been pinched will bloom a couple of weeks later than its untouched counterparts.
How to prepare a flower for the dormant period and wake it up in the spring
The dormant period of Achimenes begins with the arrival of cold weather. The above-ground part of the plant fades, withers and dries out.
It is removed after complete death. Only the rhizomes remain overwintered. At this time, they are able to withstand temperatures down to +10 °C and require rare periodic soil moisture.
With the arrival of spring, the air temperature rises, the number of waterings is gradually increased, which encourages the plant to actively begin to grow.
There is another way to store the plant during the winter season. After the surface part of the rhizomes has died, they are separated from each other, allowed to dry well, and distributed into plastic bags with soil filler. However, there is a possibility of poor ripening of the tubers.
Problem solving
Table: why leaves curl - consequences of care errors
Table: pests and diseases of Achimenes and their treatment
Reproduction: by seeds - no, by rhizomes - yes
Achimenes can be propagated using cuttings, tubers or seeds. At home, the seeds of the plant rarely ripen, and even if a flower is grown from a ripened seed, it takes a very long time to wait for a young achimenes to bloom, so other methods of propagation are more effective.
Traditional method - cuttings
An easy way to propagate Achimenes is to root a stem cutting.
- Choose a healthy shoot and cut a stalk with several leaves.
- The cut cuttings are placed in water, which is changed daily.
- After the roots appear, the flower is planted in soil suitable for an adult plant.
Another method is to root the cutting directly into a moist substrate or peat humus tablet. In this case, it is necessary to create greenhouse conditions by covering the cuttings with film and regularly ventilating them.
Dividing and planting rhizomes (rhizomes)
This propagation method is successfully used by flower growers who are keen on collecting Achimenes.
- If the plant overwintered in a pot, the tubers are divided at the end of February.
If the rhizomes “slept” in the bags, then they are checked for the absence of fungus.
- When propagating rare varieties, as well as to obtain a larger number of plants, each rhizome can be further divided.
- Up to 10 tuber segments are planted in the prepared substrate. Deepen by two centimeters. Moisturize. The tops should be turned towards the walls of the pot.
- For rapid germination, it is necessary to place the pot in a warm room, and when the first shoots appear, increase the number of waterings.
Video: rules for planting Achimenes rhizomes
Have you ever seen achimenes bloom? This stunning spectacle cannot be forgotten. Every gardener wants to have such a curiosity at home. So what is Achimenes? Achimenes Pers belongs to the Gesneraceae family and is a relative of the well-known and very decorative Saintpaulias, Gloxinias, and Streptocarpus.
In nature, Achimenes most often grow in the mountains, starting from 300 meters and ending at 2300 meters above sea level. They can settle in rock crevices, but most prefer soils in tropical forests and along river beds. There is almost as much shadow in their habitats as there is sun. The climate here has a clear division into dry and wet seasons, which determines the characteristics of the growing season of plants.
Variety of Achimenes species
By different information There are from 26 to 50 species of Achimenes. There are many times more hybrids created with their participation. The beauty and variety of their colors and shades is simply amazing. The main parents of most hybrids are two species:
- Achimenes longiflora;
- Achimenes grandiflora.
Achimenes longiflora
The height of the plant is about 30 centimeters. The stem is pubescent, drooping, and has weak branching. It reproduces by scaly rhizomes - rhizomes.
It has whorled or, more often, opposite leaves of an elongated shape with a sharp end, pubescent. The edge of the leaves is serrated. The leaves below are paler in color. The flowers are about 5 cm in diameter, violet-blue, and sit in each leaf axil. The corolla consists of a tube up to five centimeters long with bends. Habitat: Guatemala.
Achimenes grandiflora
It has a height of about 60 centimeters. The leaves are larger than those of the previous species and have a purple coloration on the lower part of the leaf blade. Flowers bigger size, can be located two in the sinus. There is a sac-like swelling at the base of the flower tube. Reproduces by rhizomes. Habitat: Mexico.
It was these species that made it possible to create numerous hybrids that delight with their flowering. The most famous breeder of Achimenes is the Romanian Serge Saliba. The varieties he bred are invariably popular. According to the type of habit, these flowers are divided into bush and ampelous (grown in hanging pots).
Popular varieties of Achimenes
Bush forms
- "Cote d`Ivoire". A small bush with large flowers. They are ivory in color and have slightly ruffled petals.
- "Lavander Fancy" The bush is small, the flowers are lavender in color.
- "Purple King" Translated - purple king. This is an old variety, has abundant and long-lasting flowering.
- "Lady in Black" The compact bush is decorated with dark cherry-colored flowers. It grows well even from one rhizome nodule.
- "Rosenberg". An erect bush, large flowers, bright pink color. Has early abundant flowering.
- "Orange Delight" It can grow in bush and also in hanging form. The flower is orange-red in color and the spot in the center is yellow. The bush is completely covered with flowers.
- "Strawberry Lemon". The flowers are yellow, with strawberry strokes and a lemon center; the strokes on each flower have a different arrangement. Because of this, the flowers are not similar to each other.
- "Heart Choice" The flower is medium-sized, crimson in color, double or semi-double in shape. Has white strokes and specks in the center.
- "Ever". A very large light lilac flower with a flat shape.
- "Rosy Frost". A very small bush. The flowers are small, bright pink on the edges, white in the middle, and have a striped neck. Pleases with abundant flowering.
- "Cote`d Or". The bush is tall, the stems are strong, and does not need staking. The flowers are light yellow, and the center is brighter and has a light purple border. Blooms long and profusely.
- "Honey Queen" The bush is erect, branches well. The flowers are honey-yellow, the border is lilac-crimson. The flower does not fall off for a long time.
Ampelous
- "Platinum" A large white flower with a faint lilac-blue tone. The intensity of the shade depends on the brightness of the lighting.
- "Grape Tears". The flower is medium-sized, very dark burgundy-violet, with a lighter center. The leaves are dark. It grows well even from one rhizome nodule.
- "Dale Martens". The flower is lilac-pink, incredibly bright.
- "Rose" It can also be grown in bush form. The flower is large, lilac-violet in color. At the bottom of the throat yellow spot, specks and stripes of the same color.
- "Nocturne" Dark red with large flowers and abundant blooms.
- "Show-off". It blooms very profusely, the color is blue-violet.
Features of caring for Achimenes
In order for the plant to feel good and give wonderful flowering, it is necessary to create conditions that are closest to those in which it grows in nature. Proper care and cultivation of Achimenes implies compliance with the following requirements:
- Location and lighting are important for growth;
- The temperature regime must be observed so that the plant does not die;
- Proper watering and maintaining air humidity;
- The plant needs to be fed periodically.
Choosing a location and lighting features
There is enough light in the tropics, so our flower also needs bright, but diffused light. Lighting needs different types achimenes are different: plants with dark leaves love more light. But they can hardly tolerate direct sunlight, and burns of buds and flowers are possible. The flower will be best placed on the windowsill of western and eastern windows, or, in extreme cases, oriented to the southwest or southeast. Protection from direct sunlight during midday is mandatory. Daylight should last from 10 to 12 hours, as in the tropics. There are selective hybrids on sale with their own lighting preferences. They usually have young shoots that are dark green in color. Such plants will do well even on the windowsill of a south-facing window. At different stages of development, this flower reacts to lighting differently. According to the recommendation of Serge Salib, before the formation of buds, Achimenes will be comfortable in bright sunlight. At this time, even a south-facing window will suit him. The beginning of the formation of buds is associated with relocation to a semi-shaded place, since bright sunlight is harmful for the blossoming buds.
Temperature
During the active growing season, Achimenes loves warmth, such as in its homeland. This is no less than 22-25 degrees. In summer it tolerates temperatures up to 30 degrees. But lowering it below plus eighteen is disastrous for him. No wonder translated from Greek name the flower sounds like it can't stand the cold. If your pet spends the summer on outdoors, do not forget to bring it home during cold spells or cold nights. During the rest period the picture changes. At that time best temperature for him from 8 to 15 degrees. With more high temperature the plant may come out of dormancy earlier, which is not desirable.
Irrigation regime and humidity requirements
The soil in the pot should be moist, but not waterlogged. If water has accumulated in the pan after watering, it must be poured out. It is better not to allow the soil to dry out. Water the achimenes only with settled water. Hard water is softened by adding a few citric acid crystals.
The temperature of the water with which Achimenes is watered must exceed room temperature by two degrees.
This flower is very sensitive to air humidity. It must be at least 60%. However, wetting flowers and leaves with water is unacceptable. This causes dark spots to appear on them. Therefore, spraying cannot be resorted to. You can increase air humidity by installing evaporators or placing the flower in a tray with moss soaked in moisture. It’s a good idea to spray the air around the plant from time to time, protecting the leaves. With the onset of the dormant period, the need for watering disappears. Only light wetting of the top layer is required once a month. During preparation for plant rest, the amount of water during irrigation and its frequency are gradually reduced.
Feeding is a necessary element of care
They begin no earlier than a month after germination and continue throughout the flowering period. Feed with a complex fertilizer for indoor plants, for example, “Kemira Lux”, once every ten days: before flowering, fertilizer mixtures for ornamental deciduous plants are needed, by the time a sufficient number of leaves grow, namely at the beginning of summer, fertilizer mixtures for flowering plants are used periodically once a month. The fertilizer mixture must contain microelements and contain calcium. With very active flowering, it is possible to apply fertilizer with each watering, but in a small dosage. It is good to alternate mineral fertilizers and organic ones. They should be given in the form of mullein infusion in a dilution of one to fifteen. In August, the plants need to be additionally fed with potassium fertilizer, for example, potassium sulfate, the dosage is indicated in the instructions, and organic fertilizers should be abandoned, thereby reducing the proportion of nitrogen. The last feeding is carried out no later than 1.5 months before the onset of the dormant period.
Caring for a plant at different stages of its growing season
Throughout the annual cycle, Achimenes goes through different stages of development, so care and cultivation will be different at different times of the year.
Spring work on caring for Achimenes
With the arrival of spring, rhizomes begin to awaken. The first operation that needs to be done is transplanting the rhizomes into new soil. Planting dates should be selected based on the possibility of additional plant lighting. If it is available, then the transplant can be done in February. If additional illumination does not work, then it is better to postpone this operation until March so that the grown plants do not stretch out.
The old soil must be carefully sorted out by hand, leaving only the rhizomes. The rest should be thrown away. The nodules are examined, discarding non-living ones. They can be recognized by their dark brown color. If there is mold on the rhizomes, they are treated with a fungicide. If the damage is too great, it is better to part with such planting material.
Achimenes and their spring planting
Every spring, Achimenes need to renew the soil, so spring planting is a necessary operation.
Planting Achimenes rhizomes is not a complicated operation. The pot for this flower is not deep, but wide enough, since its roots are superficial. One rhizome requires at least 0.5 liters of pot volume. As a rule, from three to five are planted in one pot. They all must be of the same variety. Plants different varieties may have unequal growth strength, competition will arise between them, and the weaker ones will be oppressed. At least a quarter of the height of the pot should be occupied by drainage: small pebbles, fragments of brick or old clay pots. Experienced flower growers advise sprinkling it with crushed eggshell, since this flower loves calcium very much.
Growing achimenes is possible only in light soil, consisting of two parts turf soil, three parts leaf humus and one part sand with the addition of crushed sphagnum and charcoal. If it is not possible to prepare the soil yourself, it is permissible to use ready-made soil for Saintpaulias with diluted sand and vermiculite (layered natural mineral). A layer of soil three quarters of the volume of the pot is poured onto the drainage, 1.5 centimeters of sand is placed on it, the rhizomes are laid out horizontally and covered with the remaining soil in a layer of 0.5 to 3 centimeters. Its thickness depends on the size of the rhizomes. It is possible to pre-germinate them until small sprouts appear. Water the soil in the pot well and expose it to light and warmth.
Caring for Achimenes during the growing season
Growing and caring for the growing season at home begins with waiting for germination. They are waiting for 3 weeks. During this period, moderate watering is required so that the rhizomes that have not yet sprouted do not rot. The plant can be hastened by constantly creating comfortable conditions. To do this, put on the potty plastic bag. If, nevertheless, the seedlings are late, then apply a single watering with water at a temperature of fifty degrees. Bottom heating of the flower pot also helps. When the plants reach a height of two centimeters, it is advisable to add the nutrient substrate that was used for planting to them so that they are more stable. A month after the sprouts appear, you can start fertilizing.
For better flowering, it is necessary to pinch out young shoots at the level of 2-3 leaves and shoots that have stopped flowering. The procedure is carried out three to five times until the first buds appear. Tetraploid hybrids require pinching once. Be sure to remove faded flowers.
If the soil in the pot with achimenes begins to dry out very quickly, and the flower itself has grown greatly, you will have to transfer it to a larger pot. It is better to time it to mid-August, when the plants begin to prepare for the dormant stage. This procedure itself is not complicated, but it requires careful handling of the root system of the flower. The day before transshipment, water the plant well. Choose a larger pot and prepare the soil. Be sure to put drainage at the bottom of the pot, add a little soil, remove the plant from the old pot without shaking the roots off the ground, place it in a new pot, add soil on the sides, compacting it slightly. Water the flower.
Preparing plants for dormancy
At the end of summer and beginning of autumn, Achimenes begin to prepare for a period of rest; caring for them at this time consists of stopping feeding and gradually reducing watering. The flower itself will give a signal that it is time for it to rest by reducing the intensity of flowering. Gradually the leaves and stems will begin to fade. Do not prune them until they are completely dry to allow the rhizomes to ripen well. Trim the plant to 3/4 of its height. Before transferring the pot to permanent storage, the entire above-ground part is completely removed.
Caring for dormant plants
Caring for dormant flowers at home involves maintaining temperature and water conditions. Storage of Achimenes rhizomes requires a temperature of 8 to 15 degrees. The plant will not need any light or watering. It is better to spray the soil once every month to prevent the rhizomes from drying out. The plant's dormant state lasts from four to six months, that is, throughout the short daylight hours. If there are a lot of achimenes in the collection, it is difficult to store them in pots, as they require a lot of space. You can store them in sealed plastic bags with labels. Rhizomes are stored well if coconut substrate, dry sand or vermiculite are poured into bags. In order for rhizomes to be preserved in bags until spring without damage, they need to be prepared. Carefully remove from the pot, clean, sort, removing diseased ones and dry. Bags with rhizomes need to be ventilated and inspected from time to time. Store them in a cool place.
- Propagation by seeds
Seedlings grown from seeds do not retain maternal characteristics. These will be completely different plants. But there is a possibility that their decorative qualities will improve, so it’s worth a try. If you do not remove the faded flower, a fruit will form in its place. After it has completely softened, the seeds are isolated, which are sown in late February and early March in small containers filled with a damp mixture of sand and leaf soil. Can be sown in clean, damp sand. Sowing is superficial; the seeds are not covered with soil. The container is covered with glass and placed in a warm and bright place. Watering is carried out in a tray. Crops must be ventilated.
Shoots will appear no later than three weeks. They need to be picked three times, each time into a larger pot. In the future, cultivation and care as for adult plants.
- Propagation by cuttings
This method is rarely used, since cuttings are difficult to protect from rotting. Cuttings are carried out in the summer. Only the lower and middle part of the shoot, 5 centimeters high, is suitable. Rooting occurs in wet sand. It is necessary to cover the rooted cutting with a glass jar or plastic bag. To achieve quick rooting bottom part the cuttings are treated with a root formation stimulator. “Heteroauxin” or “Kornevin” will do. Bottom heating also speeds up this process. Rooting takes from 12 to 15 days. When small nodules appear at the base of the stem, Achimenes is transplanted into a substrate for adult plants.
Winter storage of young plants obtained by the last two methods has some peculiarities. Since their rhizomes are small, it is not recommended to reduce the temperature too much. It is better to leave them in a bright window, where it will be about 20 degrees Celsius. Infrequent moderate watering will be required.
Diseases of Achimenes
This flower has no specific diseases. The diseased appearance of the plant is most often explained by errors in care. If moisture gets on the leaves, dark spots may form. Excessive humidity provokes the disease gray mold. If the temperature is too high, the buds may darken. After eliminating errors in care, the plant recovers.
The greatest danger of getting sick in this plant occurs during the dormant period during winter storage of rhizomes. They are susceptible to fungal and bacterial diseases. To prevent them, it is necessary to add a little contact fungicide to the bags in which the rhizomes are stored.
If, during the autumn inspection of the nodules before the onset of dormancy, a whitish coating and lumps are found at the root collar, as well as on the roots, they are affected by root scale insects. To get rid of the pest, the rhizomes of these plants are treated with a systemic insecticidal disinfectant before storage in accordance with the instructions. After processing, they must be dried and then sent for storage.
Achimenes - beautiful ornamental plant. With proper care, it will delight you with its continuous and luxurious flowering for almost six months. You may already have one or even several of these amazing plants. Share photos of your pets with us and tell us how you care for them.
Achimenes is an indoor and balcony beauty, a favorite of gardeners - a herbaceous perennial from the vast and diverse family of Gesneriaceae, which includes its equally popular relatives: Saintpaulia, Columnaea, Gloxinia, Aeschynanthus, Streptocarpus and other VIP plants. Why such reverence and admiration for members of the family? The beauty of their flowers leaves no one indifferent. Abundance of buds and long flowering period – additional bonus, because Achimenes can decorate a room or balcony with its magnificent blooms for several months, coloring the world around with new bright colors and bringing joy.
There are more than fifty species in the genus Achimenes. They grow in the wild in Jamaica, Mexico (Northern) and Brazil. The rest of the world grows these flowers in cultivation, garden or indoor, depending on the climate.
There are ordinary, erect varieties. Ampelous ones have also been brought out. The latter have branched shoots, barely noticeably delicately pubescent. The leaves of Achimenes are not double, like those of Saintpaulia, but shiny-glossy, opposite, with serrated teeth along the edge. The size of the leaves varies. And their color can vary from the darkest shade of green to beetroot or purple. The leaves have numerous short, stiff hairs.
And the flowers! It's an amazing sight. Different species may have different flower colors, but they are all located on the plant according to the same principle - in the leaf axils along the entire length of the stem. It turns out to be a whole elegant branch, dotted with bright colors. In different species and varieties, flowers can be single or arranged in bunches of 3-5 pieces each. The flowers have bell-shaped corollas on long tubes. They can be simple, terry or with folded petals.
The growing season of Achimenes continues almost all year round. In winter there is a very short period when the plant goes dormant, literally for 2.5 months. At this time, its above-ground part dries up, and rhizomes - rhizomatous tubers with a scaly coating and an oblong shape - “rest” in the soil of the pot. They accumulate a supply of substances that the awakened plant will subsequently feed on.
Table. Types of Achimenes and their characteristics
| Species name | Image | Description of the species |
|---|---|---|
| An upright specimen, from 20 to 45 cm in height. It has green or deep red shoots. Flowering occurs in summer. The flowers are small, 1-1.5 cm in diameter. The color is interesting: the petals are the color of baked milk on the outside, with a red tint inside, the throat is yellow with red stripes. | ||
| This specimen also has straight stems, up to 45 cm. It is characterized by strong pubescence and leafiness. It begins flowering in the summer and continues in the fall. The flowers are medium-sized, 2.5 cm in diameter. The color is pure lilac on the inside, lilac turning into pink on the outside. The throat is sunny yellow with pink spots. | ||
| A small plant with erect stems, barely growing to 30 cm. The color of the stems can be green, but more often brown. Summer flowering. The flowers are purple, 2 cm in diameter. |
||
| Traditionally grown in cultivation, it is most often an erect, medium-sized variety with shoots ranging from 25 to 45 cm. It has red flowers only a centimeter in diameter, red shoots. Blooms all summer. | ||
| An ampelous variety with branching half-meter shoots. Flowering - summer and autumn. The flowers are quite large, up to 3.5 cm. They can be colored lilac, purple, pink tones. There are different color options, the color is combined with a white throat. | ||
| A thirty-centimeter red-stemmed erect species with huge flowers - 5 cm. It blooms in both summer and autumn. It has a dark red corolla and a yellow-spotted throat, widened upward. | ||
| This very small flower (only 10 to 30 cm in height) blooms with the largest flowers of all its relatives. They reach 6.5 cm. Blue, pink and lilac-blue colors give an excellent decorative effect. The throat is yellow or white. Popular view. | ||
| Also “thirty-centimeter”. Stems drooping. The flowers are small, about 2 cm, and not multi-colored, but white, but with very beautiful edges, on which a snow-white fringe grows. |
Growing conditions
Achimenes is not the most picky indoor flower. But this does not mean that you can “forget” it in the garden or on the balcony for the whole summer. For abundant and long-term flowering, it needs to create conditions.
- An abundance of light, but diffused; shading from direct sun is a must, especially at midday.
- Plenty of moisture, but no spraying or getting water on the leaves - this can cause them to become stained.
- To create a humid environment without harming the leaf cover, the air space around the achimenes is sprayed or humidifiers are installed (during the heating season).
- Water for irrigation should not only be settled, but also warm. Two degrees warmer than the room temperature.
- The soil is constantly moist, especially during flowering, but not wet, and especially not dry.
- Warmth - above moderate. In summer, up to +30°C is permissible, in other seasons – +23°C… 25°C. In winter – +10°С… 15°С and hibernation.
By the way!Achimenes is not afraid of drafts (unless of course it is an icy winter wind), which allows him to be kept on the balcony and outside, and left indoors at home with the window open.
Planting and care activities
Achimenes are planted with rhizome nodules. They may also be called spines by sellers. You can buy them at a flower market or by mail.
Achimenes can be propagated by seeds, but the characteristics of the mother plant will not be transmitted to the seedling. For those who like surprises, a brief description of the seed propagation method.
Briefly about seed propagation
At the beginning of March, pour sand with medium-fraction grain into a flat, shallow bowl. Moisten with water. Distribute the seeds on the surface without covering them with a layer of sand. Place under a protective film or glass cap. Keep in a warm place, regularly moistening from the tray. Shoots can be expected in three weeks. From this moment you need to transfer the seedlings to the light. In a month you can carry out a pick. And care for the seedlings as you would any seedlings, taking into account the basic needs of Achimenes. Flowering of specimens grown from seeds will occur in the second year of life. That's when you will get your “surprises” in the form of unexpected colors. But all the same, Achimenes flowers, no matter what color they are, will be beautiful and desirable.
soil mixture
To grow from the roots of achimenes, use ordinary soil without any special features. Sand is mixed with leaf soil and humus. Since Achimenes is a relative of the Uzambara violet, amateur flower growers began to add loosening components to the soil when planting it, as for violets. This gave good results and showed better development. Therefore, one of the recommendations for the composition of soil for achimenes today is to add sphagnum, vermicompost, or vermiculite with perlite to it.
Important!When preparing the soil and planting containers for Achimenes, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of its root system. The plant is superficial, so shallow bowls are best suited for the plant. Be sure to make as many holes as possible in the bottom and provide thorough drainage.
Since the plant does not like chaotic soaking and does not tolerate drying out, for a better balance of soil moisture it is strongly recommended to add hydrogel to the substrate.
These are, perhaps, all the essential components of a good soil for achimenes.
Advice!The plant responds very well, especially at the moment of rhizome awakening, to the additional bonus of adding mullein to the soil. It is enough to add just half a teaspoon of this fertilizer in dry form per liter of substrate, grinding it into fine dust and thoroughly mixing with the other ingredients.
Planting process
- The substrate is poured 2/3 into the pot on top of the drainage.
- Rhizomes (up to 10 pieces in a container with a diameter of 25 cm) are carefully laid out on its leveled surface, without pressing.
- The roots are covered with a three-centimeter layer of soil.
- The planting is watered with warm water.
- The pot is covered with a film cap.
- Installed in the brightest and warmest place in the house.
- All procedures for planting, as well as transplanting awakening achimenes into fresh soil, can begin in February.
Video - How to plant Achimenes rhizomes
Care
When the sprouts appear and begin to develop, the protective cap is removed and normal plant care begins. It consists of regular watering, spraying the room, loosening the soil in the pot and applying fertilizing (mullein, mineral complexes).
Flowering usually occurs four months after the rhizomes are placed in the soil. During the flowering period, fertilizing becomes more frequent.
Advice!If you want to increase the bushiness of the plant, the tops of young shoots need to be pinched. On faded stems, the tops are also removed to form side shoots with new buds.
Upright species still need support, otherwise they will lean down and overhang the pot. Ampel varieties needs to be grown in a pot.
Preparing for rest
In late autumn, when flowering has completely stopped, first the leaves and then the stems begin to die. There is no need to try to speed up this process artificially, cut off or break off the shoots. Reducing watering is enough to help the plant go dormant.
The temperature also begins to decrease. When the shoots completely dry out, they must be completely removed at the soil level, and the plant in the pot should simply be removed to a room with a suitable temperature for wintering. Where in an apartment in winter can it be +10°C... 15°C? In the first unheated corridor, on a warm loggia, on a glazed balcony.
Every month it is advisable to look through the pots and lightly moisten the soil (just a little, along the edge of the pot), especially if the temperature in the storage is slightly higher than +15°C.
At the end of February there will be an awakening. Don’t miss this moment - bring the achimenes into the light, provide them with warmth and humidity, and transplant the rhizomes with new shoots into fresh nutritious soil. And already at the beginning of summer, your beautiful achimenes will again be full of flowers.
Video - Preparing Achimenes for the dormant period
Video - Achimenes: secrets of abundant flowering
Achimenes is a representative of the Gesneriev family. There are about fifty species of these perennials in the world. The homeland of Achimenes is South and Central America, it has been known since the 18th century. This article will inform you about all the secrets of growing a flower at home.
Did you know? Achimenes is a relative of the violet.
Conditions for growing Achimenes
Achimenes is called " magic flower"for its beauty. If you adhere to proper care for achimenes, the plant will give you beautiful flowering.
Soil composition
The best soil for plants – loose and easily permeable. There are many options for soil composition for Achimenes. All of them are corrected by feeding. Achimenes can be grown both on a soilless substrate, which is based on peat with the addition of baking powder and high-quality fertilizers, and on a substrate made of peat, coconut fiber, humus and vermiculite.
Location and lighting
Achimenez loves bright places and good lighting. In order for the plant to bloom during the growing season, it is better to place the flower pot on a well-lit windowsill. The window should face east or southeast.
On a south-facing window, shade the plant, as the sun's rays can damage the plant's leaves. With the beginning of flowering, move the achimenes to the less sunny side. In summer, take the plant out onto the loggia or veranda. Achimenes should be protected from drafts and direct sunlight. This can be done using a hanging flower pot.
Temperature
A houseplant like Achimenes needs the right temperature. During active growth and development (from autumn to spring), the temperature should be 24°C. In winter, 18°C will be enough, since at this time the plant has a dormant period.
Important! The temperature should be gradually reduced as the roots gain strength for a comfortable winter.
IN summer time You can safely keep Achimenes outdoors, only the temperature outside should be below 20°C.
Watering and fertilizing the soil of the plant is the most important thing in growing achimenes. In this section we will tell you about tips for properly caring for a flower during the flowering period.
During the active growth phase, the plant requires regular moderate watering. Some substrates are overdried, and this can lead to slower growth of shoots. During the budding period, drought causes the flowers to wither.
During the dormant period, watering should be very sparse. The plant is watered after the soil has completely dried and along the edge of the pot. This is done once a month. The flower does not like spraying, as the leaves and flowers may lose their decorative appearance.
Spraying can be used, but not by drip, but through a small nozzle. Young Achimenes requires feeding very often, especially after planting. You need to fertilize the plant once a week with complex fertilizers specifically for indoor plants. During the flowering period, fertilizer with a high nitrogen content should be applied. During budding, fertilizing with phosphorus and potassium is used.
Did you know? For busy flower growers, there are complex fertilizers in sticks. They are buried in a pot and each time you water it, nutrients are released into the pot.
Pinching is also important in caring for Achimenes. This is carried out on early stages. Start pinching Achimenes from the moment 2-3 pairs of leaves form and as new ones appear on young shoots. You can repeat pinching until the first buds appear.
Air humidity
Achimenes is a tropical plant. The optimal air humidity for it is 60%. The plant does not need spraying; just place the flower pot on a tray with wet pebbles.
You can also place a small container of water next to the achimenes. It is better not to spray the plant, as this leads to spots on the leaves.
Did you know? Achimenes was described in 1754 by Patrick Brown, who was exploring Jamaica and its environs at that time.
Features of care during the dormant period of the flower
The resting period of domestic Achimenes is more than 4 months. At this time, the ground part of the flower dies. In September, the plant stops growing, does not form new buds, and the leaves turn brown and die.
All this suggests that the florist should stop watering the plant. This should be done gradually. Do not cut off the green part prematurely, because the rhizomes do not have time to take all the useful substances from the leaves. The branch should dry out, and only then cut it.
The pot can be placed in a dark and cool place without removing the nodules from the old pot.
Important! If your archimenes survives its first winter, then it is better not to water it at this time.
During the dormant period, water the plant carefully. Overwatering provokes early awakening, and this leads to the development of weak shoots due to lack of light.
If Archimenes comes out of dormancy, provide good lighting. This can be done using daylight. If the plant does not wake up for a long time, water it once with water at a temperature of approximately 50°C.
If you don’t have a plant yet, but you already know how to grow achimenes at home, we advise you to quickly buy it. The plant is unpretentious and blooms profusely all summer.
The basics of proper transplantation
Achimenes need to be replanted both in the early stages of growth and in mature plants. Transplantation is an important operation that affects the health of Achimenes. If you have a young plant, then you should replant the Achimenes rhizomes in March and April. Rhizomes planted before March will require additional lighting. As a result, you will get weak shoots that will negatively affect flowering in the future.
Rhizomes that are planted in May and later help to lengthen the growing season. In addition, they may go into dormancy late - in October or November. Accordingly, Achimenes will wake up later, and it will take you several years to return them to their usual health and beauty.
Plant sprouted rhizomes, since without sprouts the plant may begin to rot if watered heavily. Lay the rhizomes horizontally and cover them with a layer of soil 0.5-3 cm thick.
Important! The layer depends on the size of the rhizomes.
If your plant pot dries out very quickly (in one or two days), then your plant needs more soil. To do this, water the plant the day before transplanting, turn the pot over and pull out the plant along with the earthen lump. Then place the plant along with the drainage in a new pot and add a little soil on the sides. Shake the pot a little to compact the soil.
Water the transplanted plant. We recommend doing this no later than mid-August.
Did you know? The distribution area of Achimenes extends from the northern part of Mexico to Brazil. Any flower lives for 2 - 3 days, but new buds always appear and open, so its flowering lasts from May to October.
Methods for propagating Achimenes
Reproduction of Achimenes is carried out in three ways– seeds, cuttings and division of rhizomes.
Seeds
Achimenes seeds can be obtained at home.
The plant produces green fruits, which remain so until the seeds are fully ripened. After flowering, the seeds ripen in 2.5 months. The fruits should be soft. They are then harvested and sown in February or March. The soil should be loose and nutritious; you can use sand and leaf soil. You can also plant the seeds in damp coarse sand.
Important! There is no need to sprinkle seeds on top.
The container with the seeds is watered and covered with glass. The place for ripening is chosen dark, the temperature should be 22-24°C.
The seeds are ventilated and watered from the tray. You will see the first shoots in 2-3 weeks. After this, the seedlings are planted 2-3 times. At these times, change the pots, increasing their volume. Then the plant is planted in a permanent pot and cared for as an adult.
By cuttings
This method of reproduction is rarely used for Achimenes. For cuttings, select the middle or lower part of the plant shoots and root them in sand or in a substrate made of equal parts of leaf soil and sand. Then moisten and cover with a glass jar. The main thing is not to moisten the soil too much, since with abundant watering the cuttings will rot.
You can speed up the rooting process of Achimenes by lower heating and treatment with stimulants like Kornevin or Heteroauxin. After 15 days, the stem cuttings begin to take root, and after a few days they form tubers.
Already rooted cuttings should be transplanted into a mixture for adult plants and cared for.
Dividing rhizomes
This method is used from the end of February to April. If you want to grow several plants in one pot, the shoots can be left unseparated or planted several at a time, sprinkled with loose substrate. After the first shoots appear, the achimenes are transferred to a bright place. There it needs to be shaded for the first time.
Frail shoots are strengthened with special supports. This is how they grow vertically. After 1.5 months, start feeding the plant regularly. It will be enough to do this twice a month. You can use fertilizer for indoor plants, but from August, use fertilizer with an increased potassium content.
In good conditions, the plant grows, and Achimenes flowers appear within 4 months. If you propagate by cuttings, flowering will begin after three months, and if by seeds, by the end of the second year.
Prevention and treatment of Achimenes diseases
Diseases in Achimenes occur very rarely. Diseases can be avoided if you regularly inspect the Achimenes bushes, and if you carry out cultivation and care correctly, the plant will be healthy and will often delight you with beautiful buds.
If your plant's leaves begin to dry out, it means the plant is beginning to prepare for a period of dormancy.
Dry stems can be carefully cut off. The rhizomes should remain in the pot. They can be placed in a plastic bag after digging them out first. The bag should be filled with sand or shavings. This will help the air circulate properly inside the bag.
Rhizomes should be placed in a dark place and maintained at low temperatures and ventilation.
Due to high humidity, sudden changes temperature regime or with excess moisture, Achimenes may be affected by gray rot. You can cure a plant like this: the affected stems and leaves are removed, and the soil in the pot is changed and treated with a fungicide.
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