The first way is “from simple to complex, from soap dish to DSLR.” As a rule, it is acceptable for beginners who have never held a camera in their hands before and are not sure that photography will seriously interest them. First, buy a point-and-shoot camera, take pictures, learn how to process photos, determine the role of photography in your life, and only then think about the need to buy a DSLR. Or vice versa - about the inadvisability of purchasing it if the soap dish suits you in all respects. I inevitably took exactly this path - when I started to take up photography, there were no affordable digital SLRs yet. I changed 3 soap dishes, and only then switched to a DSLR. It’s long and expensive, but during the time I used soap dishes, I gained a lot of experience working with photographic equipment, photographed weddings on a soap dish (by today’s standards this is nonsense) and, I must say, it worked out well. I approached the choice of a DSLR with specific requests and, having purchased it, immediately began to take full advantage of its capabilities, which were so lacking in point-and-shoot cameras.
The second method is to pick up a good tool from the very beginning and master the DSLR from scratch. It is not at all necessary to immediately buy a semi-professional or professional device. An amateur DSLR is quite enough - the price/quality ratio for amateur devices is very good. The capabilities will be quite enough to shoot 99.9% of scenes, especially considering your little experience so far. I myself currently shoot with a Canon EOS 400D and, believe me, its capabilities are enough for me. If I were buying a camera now, I would take a Canon EOS 1000D - about the same capabilities, but for even less money. As a rule, professional devices differ from amateur ones in their higher rate of fire during burst shooting, best quality pictures when shooting at high ISOs (although the 400D at ISO sensitivity 800 quality sneeks is quite acceptable). The plastic body of amateur DSLRs, contrary to popular belief, is more of an advantage than a disadvantage. It is quite strong (well, you won’t be cracking nuts with this machine) and lightweight - 1.5-2 times lighter than professional machines. In the event of a fall from a great height, neither a plastic nor a metal case will save the mechanics of the camera.
However, DSLRs have one “creative” drawback. Keep in mind that due to the size and weight of the device, you may be tempted not to take the camera with you to seemingly “insignificant” events - evening walks in the park, weekly trips to the country, etc. And then suddenly it appears out of nowhere interesting story, and you don’t have a camera with you - and you’re biting your elbows, why didn’t you take it??? It would be easier with a soap dish - put it in your pocket (or belt bag) and the device is always with you.
How to choose a memory card
First of all, you need to purchase a flash memory card for the camera. The flash drive that comes with the device can hold 10 pictures at best. Memory cards vary in capacity and access speed. Volume determines maximum amount pictures that can be saved to the card. The number of JPEG frames that a memory card can hold can be approximately calculated by dividing the capacity of the flash drive by twice the number of megapixels (for JPEG format in maximum quality).
The access speed determines the time the image is saved to the memory card, i.e. time the device is ready for subsequent shooting. Access speed is usually indicated by the indices 120x, 133x, etc. It means that this map memory can exchange data at the speed of a CD-ROM operating at speeds of 120x, 133x, etc. (if such a drive existed at all).
When choosing a memory card, make sure that the camera will work with it correctly - read online forums. Even though the standards seem to have been “settled” for a long time, there are cases of incompatibility of a specific device model with a specific memory card model. Example - my Canon EOS 400D would sometimes freeze when saving a file to Transcend card 133x 4GB. While with the A-Data 4GB card it worked perfectly. We plugged Transcend memory into another device (Sony A200) and everything also worked without problems.
What else do you need to buy for the camera?
If the device runs on AA batteries, buy a spare set of batteries and a charger (if not included). The battery capacity must be at least 2000 mAh. The charger, if purchased separately from the batteries, must provide a charging current sufficient for batteries of a given capacity.
A camera bag should hold its shape well and have thick enough walls to protect the camera from shock, for example, in the event of a fall. The bag should have additional compartments for spare batteries, memory cards, an additional lens (if we're talking about about the DSLR) and other little things.
I highly recommend purchasing a protective ultraviolet filter for the lens (if it is possible to install it). In theory, it reduces the impact of ultraviolet rays on the matrix, which distort color reproduction, but this impact is so small that you simply won’t notice it. An additional function of the UV filter is to protect the front lens element from dust, splashes, and fingerprints. Wiping an inexpensive removable filter with a soft cloth is much easier than wiping the lens of an expensive lens, risking scratching it.
Subsequently, you can purchase kits for wiping optics and matrices. They will be required infrequently, but such things need to be had.
What to shoot?
The most main mistake for beginners, in my opinion, an attempt to imitate more experienced photographers they know. Let's say, "he shoots nudes and I will too, why am I worse?" It's a delusion. There is no need to define your goal in advance without really knowing anything about it. If you are a beginner and can’t decide which genres of photography are most interesting to you, shoot everything. Over time, you yourself will notice that you will have some preferences, something will start to work out. And then you yourself will understand what you want and will work to achieve your goal, and not what is considered “prestigious”. It is better to become a master of landscape than a mediocre portrait painter (or vice versa). In any case, sooner or later your talent will probably find admirers, not only among photography lovers, but also among clients who are willing to pay money for your work. A portrait photographer I know collaborates with an artist who paints portraits from photos, and they share the fee fairly.
When something starts to work out, try presenting your work to the audience. Now this is very easy to do - there are a lot of photo sites where you can register, send your work there, receive ratings and reviews from other visitors. But I’ll tell you about this a little later. For now, let's get back to the technical side of photography.
Using Autofocus
How to use DSLR autofocus correctly?
Typically, autofocus can operate in two "target acquisition" modes - fully automatic mode and selective mode. Autofocus has several focusing points, usually from 3 to 9.
In automatic mode, autofocus itself determines which point to focus on. As a rule, points located closer to the center of the frame have priority. If there is an object in the center of the frame that contrasts with the general background, or just a colorful background, then autofocus will focus on it. If there is nothing for autofocus to catch on in the center of the frame, then it is aimed at the peripheral focusing points. This is not always convenient - after all, the subject may be to the side, and autofocus may focus on a more colorful background, as a result the photo will be ruined. A typical subject that is most at risk of incorrect focus is a couple portrait:
As you can see, autofocus decided that the background was more important in this scene.
To eliminate errors, it is better not to trust the automation, immediately set the focus only on central point. If you need sharpness on an off-center object (and as a rule, this is the case), we use a simple and reliable way. We place the object in the center of the frame, the shutter button, but not all the way, but only so that autofocus works. Then, without releasing the button, we compose the frame and press the shutter button. At the same time, autofocus is fixed and the subject will be clear no matter in which part of the frame it is located.
Sometimes the autofocus function is very useful - tracking mode. It consists in the fact that the device is constantly focused, regardless of whether you are going to take a picture or not. This slightly reduces battery life, but significantly reduces the time required to receive a frame. You don't have to wait precious fractions of seconds (or even seconds) for the autofocus to come into sharp focus to take the shot. This is also a very useful function when shooting moving objects - you follow the object through the viewfinder, keeping it in the center of the frame, and autofocus “accompanies” it - you’re ready to shoot instantly!
Most modern compact cameras have face recognition function- this thing makes life a little easier for the photographer. If there is a person's face in the frame, then the focus is on him. DSLRs do not have this feature.
How to use point-and-shoot autofocus correctly?
The basic recommendations are the same as for DSLRs, but the autofocus of point-and-shoot cameras has its own peculiarities. If DSLRs use phase focusing sensors, then the autofocus of a point-and-shoot camera uses the camera’s matrix. There are some peculiarities in this regard. Autofocus clings best to green objects, worst of all to red and blue objects. This is explained by the structure of the matrix - for one red and blue pixel there are two green ones. When focusing, the matrix scans in the horizontal direction, because of this, autofocus is aimed at vertical objects more readily than at horizontal ones - uniform horizontal line autofocus may simply not be distinguished from the general background.
Due to sensor noise at high ISOs, the autofocus of the point-and-shoot camera will sometimes fail when shooting in a dark place. Why is this happening? Look at these two pictures: 
They roughly reflect what autofocus “sees” when shooting on a bright day and in the evening. To bring the brightness of the “evening” picture to the daytime level, you need to artificially brighten it (that is, increase the sensitivity). Along with the increase in the level of the useful signal, there is an increase in noise. Keep in mind that the noise is dynamic, its image is constantly changing, like ripples on the screen of a poorly tuned TV. In the second case, focusing will take much longer than in the first, and it is not a fact that the camera will be able to focus at all.
Why is the background blurry on a DSLR?
The depth of field of the imaged space (DOF, depth of field) depends on three things:
- The actual focal length of the lens (the longer, the smaller the depth of field). The actual focal length of the point-and-shoot lens in the wide-angle position is from 4.6 to 5.6 millimeters. A cropped DSLR with kit lens with the same angle of view - 18 millimeters, for full-frame - 28 millimeters.
- Aperture value (the smaller the aperture number, the smaller the depth of field). Due to the small size of the point-and-shoot lens, the physical size of the aperture pupil is also smaller than that of a DSLR. In terms of providing depth of field (but not in terms of light transmission!), the F2.8 aperture of a point-and-shoot lens is approximately the same as the F8.0 aperture of a DSLR.
- The shorter the distance to the subject, the smaller the depth of field.
There are complex formulas by which the depth of field is calculated, but I see no point in presenting them. The main thing has already been said above.
How to make the background blurry on a point-and-shoot camera?
Alas, it is impossible to achieve good background blur with a point-and-shoot camera. A little blur can be achieved by shooting at the maximum focal length with the aperture wide open. You can’t go against the laws of physics: a small matrix, a small actual focal length - a flat picture.
Scene programs and creative shooting modes
What modes to shoot in?
Any camera has a fully automatic mode, as well as subject programs - portrait, landscape, sports, night portrait, portrait against a landscape background. More expensive models have semi-automatic modes - shutter priority, aperture priority, as well as a fully manual mode. Let's look at each of them in more detail.
Fully automatic mode (green zone)
In this mode, the camera determines the type of scene for you (from preset ones), selects the appropriate depth of field, exposure (lighting), ISO sensitivity, and the need to use a flash. The mode is convenient for everyday shooting like “we were here”, where you don’t need to bother with the artistic side - the main thing is that everything you need gets into the frame. However, automatic mode does not always guarantee good result— automation is prone to making mistakes. And the more difficult the shooting conditions, the higher the likelihood of error. For example, when shooting a picture in a museum, due to low light, the machine will turn on the flash, which will provide a half-frame flare. While you need to raise the sensitivity and shoot without flash.
Programmed Exposure Mode (P)
This mode is usually designated by the letter P and differs from automatic in the ability to correct the operation of the automatic - manually set white balance, exposure compensation, ISO sensitivity, manually set the flash operating mode (forced on and also forced off). This mode is optimal for everyday shooting - according to the “trust but verify” principle. We trust the machine, but in the rare event that it makes a mistake, we have the opportunity to quickly correct its actions by introducing the appropriate amendments and reshoot the plot.
Portrait
This mode is used for portrait photography, the essence of which is to highlight the foreground and blur the background as much as possible. Flash is often used to illuminate the foreground and remove unnecessary shadows from the subject's face.
Scenery
When working in a landscape scene program, the camera tries to set the maximum possible depth of field. At the same time, details in both the foreground and background are clearly obtained. Flash is disabled.
Sport
The “sports” subject program is designed for shooting fast-moving objects, and differs from other programs by setting the shortest shutter speed to prevent blurring of the picture. Autofocus enters tracking mode. To shorten the shutter speed, the device fully opens the aperture and increases the sensitivity of the matrix. Thus, in exchange for the clarity of the contours of a moving object, we sacrifice picture quality. Often, together with the “sports” program, the camera goes into burst mode, that is, it shoots at intervals of tenths of a second until we release the shutter button.
Night portrait
If you take pictures at night in automatic mode, or in portrait mode, then the photo will show only the foreground, illuminated by the flash, against a completely black background. In order to create a background in the photo, there is a “night portrait” program. To use this program you need a tripod - the shutter speed can be several seconds. When you press the shutter button, the flash fires and illuminates the foreground. The shooting doesn't end there! After this, the shutter is open for a few more seconds until the background is processed. It is important that the person being photographed stands as still as possible.
Portrait against a landscape background
In fact, it differs from the “landscape” subject program only in the ability to fire the flash to highlight the foreground.
At first, you can limit yourself to using these programs. But keep in mind that sooner or later you will encounter a situation where no program will help you. Therefore, it is advisable to master creative modes - shutter priority and aperture priority mode.
Shutter priority (Denoted as S (Shutter), TV (Time Value))
The mode is used if you need to set a certain shutter speed. The camera will set all other parameters – aperture and ISO sensitivity – on its own. The mode is not used very often, but there are times when it is necessary. For example, shooting fast-moving objects with a leash. The essence of this method is that during shooting, the lens's line of sight accompanies the subject. In this case, the object itself turns out clear, and the background is blurred, this gives the frame dynamics.
Here are two quick shooting options: flowing water. WITH long exposure and with a short one.
In the photo with a short shutter speed, all the splashes were worked out, and with a long shutter speed, the entire stream merged into a “milk river”.
Aperture priority (Denoted as A, AV - aperture value)
The mode allows the photographer to fix the aperture value, and as a result the depth of field, and the camera sets the shutter speed automatically. This is the most commonly used semi-automatic mode. The photographer himself determines what should be clear in the frame and what should be blurry. Read about the effect of aperture on depth of field in the article Choosing the First digital camera".
Manual mode
used in very rare cases when the automation is unable to figure out what they want from it. An example of using manual mode is night photography with long exposures.
Depth of field priority (A-DEP) - only in DSLRs
In this mode, the camera tries to set shooting parameters (aperture, shutter speed, ISO) such that all objects that the autofocus “saw” would be in the sharpness zone. It may be useful for novice photographers, but keep in mind that it is possible to set long shutter speeds, and therefore the image may be blurred.
How to use flash correctly
What determines the flash range?
The flash is a flash lamp equipped with a reflector and diffuser. Most devices, regardless of class, have a built-in flash. Those that are more expensive have a special connector for connecting an external flash (the so-called hot shoe).
The main characteristic of a flash is the guide number. It indicates the flash range in meters when shooting at aperture 1.0 and sensitivity ISO100. Naturally, such a diaphragm is not used in real conditions. The flash range can be calculated using the formula:
L=N/K
where N is the guide number and K is the aperture. Thus, a flash with a guide number of 50 at aperture 4.0 has a range of 12.5 meters.
External flashes have a larger guide number than internal flashes, usually in the range of 40...55. Internal flashes are weaker, their guide number is usually no more than 12. Thus, when shooting indoors, you need to take into account the flash range. For the built-in flash, as a rule actual range no more than 4 meters, for external - 10-15 meters.
To increase the range of the flash, you need to either open the aperture wider or increase the ISO sensitivity.
Why is it that when photographing a person wearing dark clothes against a dark background with a flash, his face often turns out to be overexposed?
When shooting, the flash fires twice every time, although we don’t notice it - the difference between fires is a fraction of a second. The first impulse is given “idle”. Its purpose is to illuminate the subject so that the camera’s automation can evaluate how bright the subject appears when illuminated by the flash. If the automation considers that the object is illuminated too weakly or too strongly, then the power of the second pulse (which occurs already during the opening of the shutter) will be automatically adjusted.
Now imagine that you need to photograph a person wearing black clothes against a black background. 90% of the frame area will be dark and it is quite logical that the automation will perceive this as a reason to increase the power of the flash pulse in order to work on the background. As a result, the background and clothing will be well-designed, and the light face will be washed out into whiteness. To avoid this, use exposure compensation -0.67...-1 EV.
Another option is to use spot metering and exposure lock. However, not all cameras have the ability to use this method. If your camera allows it, switch to spot metering mode (usually this function is located on a button with an icon: a rectangle with a circle in the center), point the focus point at the face. Press the AE Lock button (auto exposure lock). For Canon soap dishes, this mode is activated by pressing the “star” (*). The flash must be on. In this case, the camera will fire a flash, fix autofocus and exposure parameters. After that, we compose the frame and shoot. In terms of efficiency, this method is inferior to the first.
What is slow sync and why is it needed?
When shooting with flash, the shutter speed is usually 1/60 of a second (this value may vary in different devices). This means that the device’s automation sets the aperture and flash power so that the subject is captured at the required brightness. No attention is paid to the background.
Slow flash sync is used in cases where both the subject and the background need to be detailed. For example, a portrait against the backdrop of a city at night. In this case, a long shutter speed is set, as if the flash was turned off. During the shooting process, the shutter opens and the flash fires, illuminating the foreground. The shutter does not close until the set shutter speed has been reached - at this time the general background is being processed.
With slow sync, the flash can be set to fire when the shutter opens or closes. These modes are called “1 curtain” and “2 curtain”. There is no difference between these modes when shooting still scenes. When shooting moving objects, the difference is visible. The example pictures shown are taken from the user manual for the Canon G3 camera. I hope everything is clear from the examples given.
For the first curtain:  |
For the second curtain:  |
What is the advantage of an external flash?
Firstly, there is a complete absence of red eye. When the flash is distant from the lens, it illuminates the person in such a way that the lens does not see the area of the fundus illuminated by the flash. This is how shooting with the built-in flash works:
and so - from the outside
The pictures are schematic, but they show why red eyes appear when shooting with the built-in flash and why they do not occur when using an external flash.
The second advantage is the long range. While the built-in flash is effective within 3 to 5 meters, the effective range of an external flash is 10 to 20 meters.
If the external flash has a rotating head, you can (and should!) use it in “from the ceiling” mode. The essence of this technique is that the flash does not hit the forehead, but the ceiling, using it as a reflector (provided that the ceiling is light). This gives good soft illumination of the subject without glare. However, there is a risk of getting extra shadows on the face of the person being photographed. To reduce them, you need to attach a small reflector to the flash. It can be made from a sheet of 10*15 photo paper or simply from an A4 sheet folded in four. You can attach the reflector to the head of the flash with a simple rubber band (which is used to tie up wads of money :). The light reflected from the sheet will illuminate the foreground and suppress unnecessary shadows.
Useful camera functions
What is a histogram and what is it for?
A histogram is a kind of graph of the distribution of pixel brightness over the dynamic range. The words may seem abstruse, but now I’ll explain it more simply. Take a look at the images provided.
The graphs under the pictures are histograms. If the histogram rests on the left edge, the photo will be too dark. If it's on the right, it's too light. Ideally, the histogram should completely fit into the scale indicating the dynamic range of the camera matrix - the range of brightness that the camera perceives as from absolutely black to absolutely white. The larger the matrix size (not in megapixels, but in millimeters), the wider the dynamic range. However, no matrix has such a dynamic range as the human eye.
The histogram allows you to control the correct exposure when shooting. In many non-DSLR cameras, the histogram can be displayed on the screen directly during shooting, the so-called “live histogram”. On DSLRs it may be displayed during playback.
What to do if there is not enough dynamic range? If the histogram rests on both the right and left edges of the range, then you will have to sacrifice something - either the processing of shadows, or the processing of light areas. To do this, use the function exposure compensation(exposure). A ruler with divisions and a slider on it will appear on the camera screen. Try moving it to the left one or two notches and repeat taking the photo. The histogram should shift to the left. The photo will turn out a little darker, but “pulling out” an underexposed photo in Photoshop is much easier than correcting an overexposed one (where the light areas are faded into white), so if there is a lack of dynamic range, shadow processing is usually sacrificed.
There is a more complex way to solve the dynamic range problem. It is called bracketing, or exposure fork. Its essence lies in the fact that the device is placed on a tripod, and instead of one photo, three (or more) are taken. The first is in normal mode, the second is with underexposure (to work out the highlights), the third is with overexposure (to work out the shadows). Subsequently, the three photographs are combined into one graphic editor. This technology is also called HDR (hyper dynamic range). Taking an HDR image is a rather labor-intensive process, but in the end you can get very interesting and unusual pictures.
How to avoid blurry pictures
As you know, the longer the shutter speed, the greater the likelihood of getting a blurry picture due to hand shaking. A “safe” shutter speed, which guarantees a high probability of obtaining a clear picture, is calculated using a simple formula:
t = 1 / EGF
EGF - equivalent focal length. It is defined as the focal length of the lens multiplied by the crop factor. DSLRs have a crop factor of 2 to 1 (mostly 1.6). EGF for cameras with non-replaceable lenses is indicated in their characteristics. It follows from the formula that when shooting handheld using a lens with EGF = 50 mm, the shutter speed should be no shorter than 1/50 sec. Naturally, this formula allows only an approximate estimate of the duration of the “safe” exposure. In reality, a lot depends on your predisposition to hand tremors. Some people can easily shoot with a shutter speed of 1/10 sec, while others cannot do this even at 1/100 sec.
There are two ways to reduce shutter speed - opening the aperture and increasing the ISO sensitivity.
Opening the aperture one stop allows you to use a shutter speed one stop faster.
Increasing the sensitivity by N times allows you to reduce the shutter speed by N times. Keep in mind that opening the aperture will reduce the depth of field, and increasing the ISO sensitivity will increase image noise.
The most reliable way to get high-quality images in low light is to use a tripod.
To reduce the likelihood of image blur, cameras often contain an image stabilizer, which to a certain extent compensates for camera vibrations during shooting. It can be built into the lens or into the camera itself. The image stabilizer increases the “safe” shutter speed by 2-4 times. The stabilizer is only suitable for shooting still scenes. When shooting from a tripod with long shutter speeds (several seconds), the stabilizer must be turned off.
How to choose a frame? Typical mistakes.
The most common compositional mistake is placing the key subject in the center of the frame. This should be avoided by following the main rule of framing - golden ratio rule.
We mentally divide the image into 9 parts, as shown in the figure above, and try to “fit” the key objects in the frame to the lines of the golden ratio. When composing a frame horizontally, the golden ratio rule works exactly the same.
Photographing a person in full height, don't put his face in the center of the frame. Firstly, you will probably cut off his legs, and secondly, the frame area will be used irrationally. The person will be small, but he will have a lot of extra space above his head. Place the person’s face in the frame at the level of the top line of the golden ratio or slightly higher.
Choose the optimal shooting distance. If you shoot an object from a distance, it will turn out to be too small, there will be a lot of extra space around with unnecessary details, and its details of the subject itself will be difficult to distinguish.
Don't shoot against light sources - you'll almost certainly end up with only a dark silhouette of your subject in the photo. If there are no other options, try illuminating the subject with flash.
When photographing a group of people, be sure to take several shots. According to the law of meanness, it is almost certain that someone will blink, turn away, or make such a face that you can’t stand the image :)
If you photograph a child, do not shoot from top to bottom; do not be too lazy to sit down.
Use the zoom lens according to the scene you are shooting. Do not take close-up portraits with a wide-angle lens, as this will distort the proportions of the face. The optimal focal length range for portrait photography is 80-130 mm. (Corresponds to 3-4x zoom on most compact cameras). To shoot a full-length portrait, use a focal length of about 35-50 mm. (1.5-2x zoom for digital compacts).
About photo sites
Photo sites are a very useful means of exchanging experience between authors different levels and directions of creativity. For beginners, this is primarily an opportunity to receive feedback and criticism from other authors; for more experienced photographers, it is a search for new ideas. I remember how I registered on Photosight.ru (it was 2002) and sent my first work there. It received only 2 comments, but they were positive; it gave me a new incentive to work on myself. Some works were successful and were received quite warmly by the public, but many were trampled into the mud. At the time, of course, this offended and upset me (I really liked these photographs!), I removed many of these works from the site, but a year later I realized that the critics were right.
On a photo site, at the first stage you need to listen more than talk. Look at other people's photos, read comments. Before criticizing someone, compare the level of this author’s work with your own work. Over time, you will learn to distinguish really good photographs from "consumer goods". The main thing is to be honest with other authors. If you like someone's work, don't hesitate to praise it. If you don’t like it, don’t be lazy to write correctly why you don’t like it. If you only praise, then you will also be praised in return - you will not receive justified criticism and will forever be stuck at your level (why grow somewhere if everyone likes my work?). Such authors are disparagingly called “honey plants.” They give excellent ratings to the photographs of their “pen pals”, for which they respond
How to take photographs with a DSLR camera
After purchasing a digital SLR camera, the question inevitably arises - how to use it correctly? How is it different from an amateur camera? In this article we will try to understand the intricacies of modern photographic technology and answer common questions regarding its operation.
Main features of DSLRs
The SLR camera has several features compared to budget amateur devices. First of all, there is a viewfinder. Through it, the user can observe the photographed image through a special hole with lenses located on the front panel.
From a professional point of view, the viewfinder is much better than a regular LCD display. The main advantage is that the observed image is not digitized. There are no unpleasant artifacts (blurring, flickering, delays) when moving the lens. Therefore, the likelihood of capturing a successful shot becomes much higher.
Also, “DSLRs” are always equipped manual settings. The user can independently set the exposure value, aperture opening, and shutter speed. If you understand the settings, you will be able to take a better quality photo than in automatic mode.
In ordinary amateur devices, manual settings are almost never found - they are replaced by a set of preset scenarios. This solution may seem convenient, but in practice it is completely ineffective. Therefore, DSLR cameras have a certain advantage here.
DSLRs have a large matrix. The matrix is an element onto which an image is projected through a lens. The size of the matrix significantly affects the clarity of pictures and allows you to capture more details. You can verify this by looking at examples on the Internet, filmed with professional equipment.
And finally, DSLR cameras always have removable lenses. This allows you to open up an incomparably wider range of creative possibilities compared to an amateur camera. The user has a choice of optics for any situation, be it macro photography or shooting distant objects. This is the most important advantage of DSLRs.
Basic rules for using a DSLR camera
So, we have helped to understand the differences between the two types of equipment. Now it’s time to learn how to take photographs correctly using a DSLR. The topic of conversation will be device management. It is impossible to fully cover such a broad topic in a short article, but we will provide some useful recommendations, allowing the user to quickly get used to it at first. Naturally, then you will need to read highly specialized literature in order to achieve the proper professionalism and be able to use the device at the level of a master. In the meantime, some tips:
Please note: on FotoStream you can create your personal website for a professional photographer with one click. Practice photography techniques and accept orders for shooting now!
Grip. DSLR cameras are often large and heavy, so they need to be held completely differently than point-and-shoot cameras. The right hand should be placed on the protruding handle, and the left hand should support the lens from below. This hand position allows you to quickly access functionality and adjust the focal length. After all, there is no “zoom key” here; the optics have to be tightened manually using a special ring on the lens. For beginners who are accustomed to the “zoom lever” in amateur cameras, this may seem inconvenient, but you can quickly relearn it.
Sighting. To catch the shot, it is preferable to use an optical viewfinder. That's exactly what they do professional photographers, who turned his occupation into a real art. But sometimes it becomes impossible to use the viewfinder (this can be caused by the non-standard position of the device) - in this case, it is recommended to turn on Live View mode. It involves displaying the captured image on the built-in display. It's important to note that turning on Live View is also necessary to create video. Also, when the video mode is activated, the device automatically turns off the optical viewfinder (this is due to the design).
Charger. DSLRs use removable battery cells that need to be charged periodically. To do this, you need to open the corresponding compartment on the device, remove the batteries and connect them to charger. This is much more convenient than connecting the camera itself to the network, as is implemented in amateur cameras. Having several sets of batteries, the photographer can quickly continue the shooting process “on the go” by replacing discharged batteries. All you need to do is purchase several rechargeable batteries (preferably from a reputable manufacturer) and a charger in advance.
Function keys. On the body of the device there are a number of different control elements through which the user can access basic features, settings, etc. Regardless of the manufacturer, the location of the keys is almost the same - there are generally accepted standards for the manufacture of photographic equipment. Therefore, even if you frequently change photographic equipment, there is no need to relearn it, everything is in its usual place and is intuitively clear. We will take a detailed look at the main controls that are present in SLR cameras and are not available in the average point-and-shoot camera.
- Mode selection wheel. The following symbols are located around the circle - A+ (fully automatic mode), P (automatic mode with partial adjustment), Av (aperture priority mode), Tv (shutter speed priority mode), M (fully manual mode). We will describe the modes a little later.
- In addition to the wheel, the body contains no less important functional elements. These include a video recording button (often marked in red), an exposure key, and a mechanical lever designed to switch between the screen and viewfinder. The latter is completely mechanical due to the design features of the SLR camera.
- Some manufacturers equip devices with additional control wheels, with the help of which settings can be changed manually. This is necessary for additional comfort of the potential user (the wheels are located directly under the fingers and provide very quick and comfortable access to the parameters).
- More expensive models have an additional monochrome liquid crystal display located on top of the case. It shows the current settings when the main display is used for sighting. Convenience of this element It’s hard to underestimate - it often helps the photographer when deriving shooting parameters.
- Switching between manual and automatic focusing in some cameras is done using a lever on the body. In others, this parameter is assigned to a lever on the lens. The specific option must be chosen by the buyer of the device, based on personal preferences (it is better to evaluate the convenience directly in a photographic equipment store).
Understanding the shooting modes of a DSLR camera
In the DSLR settings there is a large list of modes that a potential user can use in practice. Beginners find it quite difficult to understand the modes (after all, most of them are called by incomprehensible abbreviations like “A” or “Tv”). But in practice there are almost no difficulties - it is only important to familiarize yourself with the meanings of these modes and remember in what cases they are used.
A+ (automatic mode). Designed for users who prefer to save their time as much as possible or simply do not understand the intricacies of manual settings. It is for them that manufacturers have developed a fully automatic mode, which is also called the “green zone”. The name is due to the mode icon - a green camera or the letter “A” of the same color. After selecting this function, the device processor independently selects required parameters shooting, including exposure, shutter speed, aperture opening. Thanks to modern developments, the shooting is done quite well. And for greater convenience, there are scene programs - “Landscape”, “Portrait”, “Evening” - which should be selected depending on the situation.
Av (Aperture priority mode). It is considered a semi-automatic mode, providing the ability to control the opening of the aperture. For example, if you set the parameter f 1/4 in the settings, then this will be considered maximum value disclosures. As the parameter increases, the aperture begins to gradually close. Thus, the principle is simple - the larger the hole, the more light enters the matrix. For beginners, it is recommended to open the aperture in poor lighting conditions - for example, in a dark room. When shooting in an open sunny space, the aperture must be closed, on the contrary, setting a value from f 5.5 to f 11. The parameter can affect the presence of bokeh - a kind of background blurring effect.
TV(shutter priority mode). Considered less popular among amateurs. It allows you to adjust the shutter speed, that is, the speed at which the picture is taken. This speed is measured in units of a second (for example, 1/1000 or 1/500). When photographing fast-moving objects, you need to set the shutter speed as low as possible, otherwise the photo will turn out blurry. In another situation - when shooting in low light - it is recommended to set the shutter speed as long as possible so that more light falls on the matrix. Naturally, a long shutter speed (from 1/5 second) already requires a tripod to avoid hand shake and subsequent blurring of the image.
M (fully manual settings mode). Allows the user to independently set all parameters - aperture, shutter speed, exposure. To use it, you need professional knowledge of the equipment, so novice owners of SLR cameras are unlikely to be able to correctly understand the settings. Thematic literature is suitable, as well as independent research manual mode capabilities. In cameras from different manufacturers, the method of setting parameters may vary - for example, it can be done using function keys on the body or a rotary wheel. In this case, the current values are displayed on the built-in display. Details can be found in the instructions for the specific device model.
ISO (light sensitivity setting). Usually this parameter is listed separately in the device menu. It allows you to select the exposure level, that is, the photosensitivity of the digital matrix. The minimum value is 100, and the maximum varies depending on the manufacturer and the high cost of the model. The most modern DSLRs are capable of producing satisfactory image quality at ISO 12,800. What does “satisfactory quality” mean? The thing is that increasing the exposure level “lights up” the image, resulting in digital noise. It appears as bright white dots scattered throughout the picture. Manufacturers are trying to eliminate it in various ways, including the parameters of the matrix itself and built-in software processing.
Practical examples of using a DSLR
Perhaps many people realize that the topic under consideration is almost limitless. And it is impossible to comprehensively consider it in a short article - there are many different books for this. Therefore, we will not go too deep, but will simply give the most important tips designed for beginners. They will definitely come in handy for beginners who have recently purchased a DSLR camera and want to get acquainted with its range of creative possibilities. And for those who just need to shoot and get images of quite passable quality, the usual built-in automatic mode described above is suitable.
Taking portraits. For this purpose, 50-120 mm optics are used. The object must be brought as close as possible by turning the zoom wheel. Then select mode A (with aperture priority) and set the maximum possible value (usually it is 5.6). When it comes to exposure, it's best left to the camera itself. After making the settings, you need to catch the object in the viewfinder and take a shot. Thanks to the described method, you can make almost any portraits - full-length and facial. The listed settings guarantee maximum blurring of the background and at the same time a minimum amount of artifacts.
Landscape photography. To photograph distant objects, a lens with parameters of 18-55 mm is required. You will need to activate mode A, set the aperture opening to f 9, and adjust the sensitivity of the matrix to 100. This will make the frame very clear, avoiding excessive overexposure and the appearance of digital noise. Of course, the listed settings are recommended for daylight hours, preferably in cloudless weather. If the landscape is photographed in the evening or at night, fundamentally different parameters will be needed.
Architecture photo. Almost every novice photographer wants to capture beautiful architectural objects on the streets of their city. Since the space is often obscured by buildings, it is necessary to prioritize the aperture to f 7 to let in more light. It is better to keep the focal length within 18 mm, and as for the exposure, it should be 100. These parameters will help ensure the sharpness of the image and excellent visibility of even the smallest details (almost all architectural objects have small elements on the surface, so it is desirable to achieve as much clarity as possible ).
Macro photography. It involves photographing objects from short distance. You will need an 18-55 mm lens, and the focus parameters can be anything, depending on the composition. To get the sharpest and best quality photo without the effects of chromatic aberration, it is recommended to experiment with aperture settings, setting the aperture to f10 to f20. It is especially important to consider the aperture when using 55mm optics. As for the photosensitivity value, it is better not to raise it above 400 - otherwise noise will not be avoided. And, of course, there should be bright lighting.
Shooting in motion. Sometimes the user is faced with photographing moving objects - pets, Vehicle, athletes at competitions, etc. In such situations, the lens does not play a special role; the main thing is to pay attention to shutter speed. It should be as short as possible to achieve great clarity. Thus, you should activate the Tv mode (with shutter priority), select the value 1/1000 and set the sensitivity to automatic. The camera itself will select the required exposure and will not increase the ISO too much (especially if the shooting is carried out during the daytime).
Night photography. It requires a special fast lens (transmitting the maximum amount of light). The mode should be set to M (manual) and the light sensitivity should be reduced to 100 to avoid noise. Typically, exposure times can vary from 1 to 8 seconds, depending on the lighting. For night photography, you definitely need to install the DSLR on a tripod, because optical stabilization is not able to fully compensate for hand shake and the pictures will turn out blurry. This is especially true for long shutter speed settings.
conclusions
Thus, we were able to consider the main differences between DSLRs and amateur cameras, and also give useful tips related to the filming process. Now you know what modes your camera has, how to use the controls, and why you shouldn’t rely entirely on automatic settings. You also understood basic practical examples when you need to photograph architectural objects, portraits or moving objects. We hope that the information provided has helped you.
Naturally, if you are deeply interested in photography, you will need specialized literature, which can be found on the Internet. It has a deeper presentation of the material, so it will help you understand the intricacies of photographic art and achieve some professionalism. You also need regular practice in using your camera, since theoretical knowledge cannot guarantee correct handling of the equipment. If you follow these recommendations, you will be able to create high quality pictures, with correctly maintained exposure settings, shutter speed, etc. This means they are attractive from an aesthetic point of view.
Also, for some users, training videos in which the authors talk about correct use SLR camera. Examples of photographing various objects, setting settings in the device menu, and changing lenses are shown. The advantage of such lessons is their clarity - all the actions taken can be repeated after the author of the video to achieve a similar result. It was thematic videos that helped many beginners become real photographers and understand this difficult art. We wish you to fully master the capabilities of the “DSLR” and enjoy the creative process.
I would like to note right away that this article does not pretend to be a complete presentation of the basics of photography. This is more of a beginner's guide to photography, aimed at enthusiastic beginners who want to learn the basics of photography and learn how to take technically sound images, but don't know where to start.
The basic and most essential setting of your camera is exposure. As you learn about exposure, you'll learn how to properly use your camera and ultimately take better photos. Once you understand the concepts of shutter speed, aperture and ISO sensitivity, and understand the essence of determining the correct exposure ratios, you can move away from full automatic mode and understand what your camera is capable of in different conditions.
If you only have time to study one aspect of photography, then, undoubtedly, you should start with exposure, or rather, by becoming familiar with its three parameters: aperture, shutter speed and ISO sensitivity, which have different meanings. affect both the exposure itself and other image properties.
If we consider exposure in the order in which light hits the camera sensor, then the aperture is first in its path. The principle of operation of the diaphragm is very similar to the operation of the pupil of the eye - the more it expands, the more light it lets in. That is, the aperture controls the amount of light passing through the lens by increasing or decreasing the diameter of the opening. In addition, aperture values also affect other important indicators, the main one of which is depth of field, but we will return to its consideration a little later. I considered exposure to be something complicated and incomprehensible, but only until I understood the scale of standard aperture values. Therefore, I advise you to first study this scale, understand the dependence of the aperture values on its diameter, and try to remember all this.
Standard aperture scale: f/1.4, f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, f/22
Excerpt
Next to the aperture is the shutter speed. It determines for what period of time the camera shutter should be opened so that the matrix gets required quantity Sveta. Shutter speeds are directly related to what you're shooting and how much light you have available. Different shutter speeds may have various applications. So, for night photography from a tripod, set a longer shutter speed, somewhere around 30 seconds, and, for example, with, as a rule, a short shutter speed is used, about 1/1000 of a second, which allows you to freeze movement. But, as a technical technique and to emphasize the dynamics of what is happening in the frame, they set a shutter speed of a second, and then the moving object leaves behind a blurred trail.
When I got my first SLR camera, I began my acquaintance with its settings with shutter speed, because at that time I really wanted to be able to freeze movement in the frame and remove any potential blur from it. Although now, looking back, I understand that I should have started with the diaphragm.
Unfortunately, even with the correct shutter speed and aperture settings, it is not always possible to obtain a sufficiently bright and unblurred image. This happens due to lack of light. In such situations, you may find it useful to have an exposure parameter such as increasing the sensor's light sensitivity. The sensitivity value (ISO) characterizes the ability of your camera sensor to perceive light flux. So, at low ISO values, your camera is less sensitive to light and vice versa, the higher the light sensitivity of the matrix, the more sensitive it is, therefore, it needs less light to take a good picture. As a rule, ISO values are increased in low light conditions or when you want to capture something unique. But be careful, as higher ISO values increase image sensor noise or film grain.
Exposure metering
Not every beginner is able to set the correct exposure even in a difficult situation. Therefore, I advise you to actively use the automatic exposure metering system at the very beginning of training. Exposure metering evaluates the degree of illumination of the subject in the frame and selects the desired aperture and shutter speed. All you have to do is look at the display and find out what aperture the required shutter speed will correspond to.
There are 3 types of exposure metering: spot, matrix and center-weighted. IN simple situations, when there are no sharp changes in brightness, all three measurements will give approximately the same readings. But under more difficult shooting conditions, their results can be completely different. My advice to you: practice a lot, experimenting with exposure metering, remember, draw conclusions, and soon you will be able to understand and feel the connection between these parameters in your work, and setting the correct exposure will no longer be a difficult task for you.
Depth of field
When shooting in low light conditions, you always have to increase the aperture size to ensure that enough light enters the lens. But a wide open aperture has one rather impressive side effect - shallow depth of field. And, although the blurred background obtained with a shallow depth of field allows you to highlight the main subject and can be used very creatively, it is not always desirable in the frame. There are many situations, such as macro photography, landscape photography, or when you want everything to be in focus, and this requires a narrower aperture.
White balance
White balance will set the main shade of the entire photo, and it is its settings that determine which tones will predominate in your photo - warm or cool. Since in most cases the camera's automatic adjustment is not effective, manual white balance adjustment is mainly used. This is especially true for situations where shooting is carried out with several lighting sources that have different color temperatures. Therefore, in order to avoid future disappointments and be guaranteed to get pictures with real color reproduction, I recommend that you learn how to set the correct white balance yourself as early as possible.
Focal length determines the angle of view of the lens, as well as the degree to which the subject is reduced or enlarged at a particular shooting point. By decreasing the focal length, we remove the image and at the same time increase the perspective, expanding the boundaries of the frame. And, conversely, when we increase the focal length, we bring the subject closer without changing our location. Depending on the focal length, lenses are divided into wide-angle (10-20 mm), standard (18-70 mm) and telephoto lenses (70-300 mm), and each of them has its own typical application. Thus, wide-angle lenses are typically used for landscape and architectural photography, standard lenses for documentary and street photography, and telephoto lenses for shooting sports events, birds and wildlife.
Crop factor
Sensor digital cameras captures less of the projected image than a traditional 35mm film frame, resulting in an incomplete and slightly cropped image due to the narrower angle of view of the lens. In other words, the crop factor shows the difference between the size of your sensor and the 35mm frame. This indicator is very important and is mainly used to determine the focal length of the lens when installing it on different cameras. The crop factor is one of those concepts in photography that you simply need to understand. Once you understand what the crop factor is, you can do more conscious choice when purchasing lenses and their further use.
"Half a ruble"
For those who don’t know what “fifty dollars” is, I’ll note that this is the name given to a standard lens that has a focal length of 50 mm. Its angle of view is virtually the same as that of the human eye, so photographs taken with such a lens look most natural, even without any perspective changes. I would advise all beginners who want to master photography to start with the “fifty kopeck”, since, firstly, it is easy to use, and secondly, it has a fairly high quality at a relatively low price.
I'm not saying that all good photographs, without exception, include compositional rules. It may sound stupid, but in reality these rules are just guides, you don't have to follow them at all, but the more you know about them, the better understanding you will have about photography, the better you will be able to break all these rules.
This is probably the very first compositional rule any photographer comes across, and there's a good reason for it - it's quite simple, and it works flawlessly. The rule is that by dividing the frame vertically and horizontally into three equal parts, you can easily find the intersection points of these conditional lines, which will be the most effective zones, where the main subject of shooting should be located.
Visual weight
Visual weight is a fairly powerful tool in composition; it allows you to create visual symmetry, harmony and balance in the frame. It is assumed that each object in the frame has a certain weight in relation to everything else. Often visual weight is obvious, for example, between small and large objects, because it always seems to us that the larger the object, the heavier it is. If the sizes are the same, the weight may be affected by the color of the item. By using weight correctly, you can more effectively draw the viewer's attention to a particular subject in the photo.
The principle of balance
The principle of equilibrium is that objects that are located in different parts frame must be balanced, that is, match each other in size and color. Balance has a big impact on how we feel when looking at a photograph. So, an unbalanced photo makes us feel some discomfort, so everything in the frame should be balanced. It doesn't really matter whether you shoot symmetrical or asymmetrical photos, as long as you understand why you chose one or the other and whether there are reasons to justify that choice. Again, this is one of those situations where the more you know about it, the easier it will be for you to achieve the desired effect.
I hope you found my advice on the basics of photography for beginners useful and now you know where to start on your journey to photography. Thank you for reading.
So, you bought (or begged from your parents) your first serious camera. Our congratulations! Often, when the puppyish delight of all these spinning wheels, mysterious buttons, interesting levers passes, then a completely logical question immediately arises: what should I do now to learn how to take beautiful photographs? Where is the magical mode called “100% Cool Shot”. How to learn to take cool photos?
In order not to fuel your confusion caused by the ominous words: ISO, aberration, bokeh and aperture, we decided to make your search task easier necessary information and collected the most important and useful tips on the topic: “how to learn to take good photographs.” And we dedicate the resulting small reminder to you, aspiring amateur photographer.
How do you know how good your photo is?
First of all, you need to understand the concepts. How can you tell a good professional photograph from a bad one? First of all, you should pay attention to the lighting. You don’t have to immediately run to the store for professional studio equipment. Your main ally is a well-chosen angle, time and place of shooting, when daylight will show himself with the best side. From this we can conclude: the subject of shooting is not as important as what perspective you choose for this object.
If we talk about technology, then you can take a beautiful photo with anything, even with a phone that only has a 1 megapixel camera in its arsenal; the desire to learn is what is really important. Although professional photographic equipment will make your life much easier.
And now, you have a beautiful new camera with a bunch of buttons that you can’t wait to figure out. You must understand what your camera can do, what its advantages are and how they can be used to advantage. For example, you can’t make a good portrait with excellent depth of field using a point-and-shoot camera, but you can quite convey the mood of the photo and the composition.
How to learn to take photographs professionally?
Practical advice
Tip #1. The first thing you need to do is study the instructions for your unit in detail. You need to understand all the functions, find out what each of the buttons is for and what will happen if you turn that wheel over there. Most frequently asked question The question that arises for beginners is: what mode should you use to take professional photographs? Unfortunately, there is no one regime for all occasions. In order to learn how to take great photographs, you need to become more familiar with shutter speed and aperture. Getting to know shutter speed will give you magical shots of the city at night, and you'll fall in love with aperture when you start photographing people.
Tip #2. The next important aspect that you must master is the ISO value (photo sensitivity of the matrix). You need to understand that a beautiful landscape cannot be captured at high ISO values: noise will certainly arise. At night, it is advisable to photograph from a stand or from a tripod. And if the subject is in motion, and the shutter speed cannot be longer, then it is best to raise the ISO slightly so that the frame does not blur. For photographing restless children and animals.
Tip #3.The lens is also an important component of photography. It's not difficult to guess that each lens has individual characteristics, which in one way or another affect the final result. If you don’t know what the letters on your lens mean (what a shame), then immediately start studying the markings. The main parameter of any lens, which most influences its cost, is aperture. Before you spend extra money on another lens, figure out whether you really need it. Do you want to plunge into mysterious depth sharpness or just enjoy good focus? Knowledge is power that will help protect your wallet from unnecessary purchases.
Tip #4. In cases where there is not enough lighting, you have to use a flash. Keep in mind that the flash already in the camera is only useful when the main light source is behind the subject or in harsh daylight. You should not try to shoot indoors with the built-in flash, otherwise you are guaranteed to get a glare on your face and a not-so-nice shadow in the background. Although in order to achieve a certain mood of the photo you can break all the rules, the main thing is that the photo turns out “with soul”.
Tip #5. Don't ignore white balance. The color rendition in your photo depends on this. If you want to take a photo of a sunset that can get more than 100 likes, then learn how to configure this function correctly.
Tip #6. If your photos turn out blurry, then you shouldn’t immediately call your camera or lens unflattering names. Maybe it's all about you? See what you're doing wrong, check your settings.
Tip #7. Don’t forget about the possible appearance of chromatic aberrations, which like to creep into the frame along with the sun. Also be aware of diffraction, which can ruin sharpness in macro mode. Take into account distortion with wide-angle lenses as well. Google all these phenomena and learn their definitions by heart.
Tip #8. Remember about filters. A filter with a gradient will allow you to get an incredible effect, the “polar” will show true beauty blue sky, and the protective filter can protect your lens from all kinds of scratches and water.
By following all these rules, you can easily take the “correct” photo. Beauty depends on emotions, ideas, mood, imagination: they can only be developed. Be inspired by the work of other photographers, communicate with colleagues and, of course, learn.
In our school you will find . You will not only learn to do beautiful pictures, but you will also master retouching, professional equipment and many other useful things.
Ah, these wonderful Canon cameras that are just begging to be held! Everyone who works hard, saving money for the coveted EOS, knows what they are doing. Canon cameras are distinguished by high speed performance, enviable autofocus, high image quality and simply magical color rendition. This is why many photographers (both new and old-school) can spend hours drooling over the display window, looking at the most powerful boxes and lenses.
Since you already own a dream and are eager to learn how to manage it, we offer general development understand the brands of Canon cameras.
What do the numbers and letters on your camera brand mean?
Most “beginner photographers” who consider themselves at least Lezek Buznowski have no idea what EOS stands for. If you ask such a “professional” what the letter D in the brand of his camera means, he, with an embarrassed look, quietly tries to go to Wikipedia. Well, perhaps a real talent does not need this knowledge, and only those who like to show off in the company of friends remember this, but we believe that in order to learn how to photograph, you must know Canon by heart.
- The abbreviation EOS (Electro-Optical System) is consonant with the name of the goddess of dawn Eos, who can be found in ancient greek mythology. The first camera in this series was the Canon EOS 650, which was released back in 1987.
- The D in the name stands for Digital.
- Cameras with 3 or 4 digits in their names (EOS 400D, EOS 1000D) are positioned as cameras for beginners.
- If the name has one or two numbers, but they do not start with one (EOS 33V, EOS 30D), then this is a semi-professional camera.
- Canon for professionals is: EOS 5D Mark III, EOS 1D X, EOS 1D C.
Now you are sitting in front of the monitor, and in your hands, for example, a Canon 600d - how to take photographs?
How to take photographs correctly: Canon for beginners
It is known that in Auto mode the camera independently selects the settings in such a way that the result is a suitable exposure. But it’s worth considering that if you shoot in difficult lighting, then even the coolest camera will not always be able to cope with its task. Moreover, you want to learn how to take photographs with a Canon DSLR, using all the possibilities, and not just randomly press a button and wait for your luck. You can take a good photo only after you master the basic settings. Only then will you intuitively figure out how to photograph on 500d, 550d, 7d, 1100d, 600d, 650d, 60d, 1000d and other “d”.
There are three main settings and all of them are related to light in one way or another:
- Aperture is the size of the “hole” opened by the camera that allows light to pass through. The wider the aperture is open, the more light there is in the picture: everything is logical here.
- Shutter speed is the time for which you open access to light to the camera matrix.
- Photosensitivity (ISO) – the higher the photosensitivity, the more light the matrix receives.
Learning to set Canon settings correctly
The aperture of your camera is designated as “f/” + a number that will demonstrate how open/closed the “hole” is that allows light to pass through. If you want a blurred background, open the aperture; if you want a completely clear photo, close it. The wider the aperture is open, the smaller the number next to “f/”.
By adjusting the aperture value, you can focus on a specific object and draw the viewer's attention to the subject you have chosen. Like here:
An open aperture works amazingly well in pictures with butterflies, flowers and small objects. How to photograph a portrait correctly? Canon with an open aperture - nothing is simpler. Do you need to visually distinguish a person from the rest? Again - Canon with an open aperture.
You need to close the aperture when shooting crowds, landscapes and streets, in general, wherever you need the entire picture to be in focus.
Students often ask: how to photograph with shutter speed? Canon is best suited to master this setting. First, you need to decide how you want to capture movement? After all, the longer the shutter speed, the more movement the camera will be able to capture; a short shutter speed, on the contrary, will freeze the moment.
Long shutter speeds are used when shooting a city at night, but you should use a tripod. Also, these interesting photographs are taken with long exposures:
As for the fast shutter speed: it is good when shooting falling objects.
Light sensitivity is measured in ISO units with values of 100, 200, 400, and so on up to 6400. Higher values are used if the shooting takes place in poor lighting, but noise (small dots) often appears in the pictures.
So, before messing around with this setting, decide:
- Do you have enough light to take a photo at the lowest ISO setting?
- Do you want a photo with noise or not? Black and white pictures with noise look pretty cool, but it sometimes ruins color pictures.
- If you have a tripod or any other way to secure the camera? Light sensitivity can be compensated by making the shutter speed longer, but then you can’t do without a tripod.
- If your subject is constantly moving, then the ISO simply needs to be raised so that the photo does not blur.
You will have to set a high ISO in the following cases:
- Sports games, dancing, children's party in room. In general, when a short shutter speed is simply necessary.
- In areas where the use of flash is prohibited.
- That moment when the birthday boy prepares to blow out the candles on birthday cake. A flash can ruin the cozy light and the whole mood of the moment, so just increase the camera’s light sensitivity.
How to take photographs with Canon using the full power of the camera?
Daily observations show: The vast majority of SLR camera owners shoot only in Auto mode - green square. And this sad fact makes it so expensive purchase just pointless. Suppose you paid about 27,00 thousand rubles for your Canon 600d, but in auto mode your camera only works 5400, i.e. Only 20% of the capabilities of an excellent DSLR camera are used. Do you want to learn how to take photographs with Canon 600d and other models? Do you want to use your camera one hundred percent? Then remember, or better yet, write it down.
Semi-automatic modes.
In this part we will discuss working with the following modes: P, A (or Av), S (or Tv), M, A-Dep. These modes are excellent helpers for beginners who don’t yet know how to take photographs with their Canon, and generally don’t know what they’re doing. Experienced photographers also highly respect these modes because they save them a lot of time.
1.The simplest mode is P (programmed autoexposure) mode. This mode will help you get a good exposure of the frame, select aperture and shutter speed values depending on what ISO you set. This is incredibly convenient for beginner photographers who are just experimenting with light sensitivity.
You can also change the exposure pair values (exposure parameters of shutter speed and aperture), for example, on a Canon 550d camera this can be done by simply scrolling the video. If you need to set a faster shutter speed, then simply scroll the video to the right, and the camera will slightly close the aperture, keeping the exposure at the same level. This will allow you to photograph any falling object, which will simply freeze in the air in the picture.
2. Mode A or Av – aperture priority.
The whole point of this mode is that it allows you to control the strength of the background blur in the photo. You need to set the ISO value and adjust the aperture yourself, but the camera will set the required shutter speed so that you end up with a good shot. Here you need to decide whether you want a blurred background, then set the appropriate aperture value, and the rest is up to the camera. Convenient, right?
When shooting a portrait on Canon, set the ISO and open the aperture completely (the smallest number) to get a blurred background, and the camera will set the shutter speed itself.
3. Mode S or Tv – shutter priority.
It works exactly the same as the previous modes: you set the ISO, and the aperture value remains up to the camera.
In order to practice using this mode, find any moving object (person, cat, car, fountain): set a short shutter speed - this way you will get a clear photograph of the object “stopped” in the frame. Now set the shutter speed longer, place the camera on any stable surface and gently press the button. Most likely, you will get a beautiful “smear” that reflects the beauty of the dynamics of movement.
4.And the last mode is A-DEP (depth of field priority). By the way, it is not available on all cameras. This mode allows the camera to set the aperture and shutter speed so that all objects in focus are sufficiently sharp.
It’s worth adding that once you mess around with manual settings or semi-automatic modes at least a little, you’ll never go back to the “green square”.
If, after reading this article, you still have questions about what to do with your camera and how to photoengrave on Canon, then our teachers will be glad to see you in their courses.
