It is on this issue that there is especially much controversy when it comes to individual buildings. Representatives of the energy supply organization, as a rule, require owners to place devices outside. And here a misunderstanding arises, since the owner is afraid for the safety of the meter, and this is quite natural. What should you be guided by?
The device must be located at the edge of the network (determined by the so-called “balance sheet”). This is stated in the Accounting Rules. The same is evidenced by the PUE - the counter is installed according to the interface. But Government Decree No. 530 states that the Consumer’s responsibility is to ensure free (unhindered) access to the device for employees of the resource supply organization, but does not stipulate the specific location of the meter.
This requirement is due to the need to both regularly check its technical condition (primarily the integrity of the seal) and control readings. Therefore, of course, it will not be possible to install the device in a private house, although this is preferable. If we're talking about about some industrial, economic or other facility owned by a private person, then in the presence of round-the-clock security that will guide you to the place, this question may be resolved differently.
But there is one more provision of the same document - PUE. According to clause No. 1.5.27, the electricity meter must be placed in dry rooms where the temperature does not fall below 0 0C. In addition, energy sources, requiring installation outside the building (on a pole, facade of a building, etc.), come into conflict with the Civil Code.
Namely, in his art. 210 states that the owner bears full responsibility for the safety of his property. But how to provide it if it is on the street?
It is also necessary to take into account that metering devices come in different designs. For example, inductive ones differ in that when the air temperature drops they begin to count “faster”. According to experts, such an “add-on” to the readings can reach 0.1 of the actual energy consumed. In other words, you will have to pay it in the amount of 110%.
Placement height
When the conversation turns specifically to safety, you can often hear a recommendation from an ESO representative - put it higher so that no one can reach it. We will not mention the inconvenience of monthly readings from such a device. There is clause 1.5.29 (again PUE), which states that the permissible distance from the floor to the product is in the range from 80 cm to 1 m 70 cm. in some cases– from 40 cm.
What to consider
- Compliance of the characteristics of the device with the conditions of its further operation. Mainly temperature environment and the possibility of using the counter when it negative values. This applies to cases where the device will be placed outside the building (facade, pillar, etc.).
- There are products on sale that allow remote readings. It's much more convenient in many ways. But a completely reasonable question arises: won’t the information transfer protocol change over time? There is such a concept - “obsolescence” of a technical device, therefore, when purchasing such a device, it is advisable to take into account the prospects for its operation (for example, the possibility of reconfiguration), since it costs much more than “simple” analogues.
- All energy suppliers (energy, gas, and so on) are commercial organizations. One of their activities is the sale of metering devices. Often they simply impose a certain type of device on us, and, as a rule, not the cheapest one. We need to know that we have the right to choose. If you look in specialized stores, you can find a cheaper device. Therefore, when submitting documents, it is necessary to immediately clarify which meter is suitable for installation at a given facility (its parameters are implied). And we can decide for ourselves which specific model to buy. The main thing is compliance with the characteristics (primarily the accuracy class).
- For private buildings, it is better to purchase a dual-mode meter. The fact is that the surrounding area is illuminated even in the dark, and the tariffs for “day” and “night” are different, and the latter is much lower. Even if we are talking about only one light bulb in front front door(and often there are much more of them on the site), then the savings in a month will be quite decent.
- When installing any meter for the first time, its sealing is absolutely FREE. This must be kept in mind, since they often try to take money from us for this.
Some “vagueness” of many documents, as well as their abundance (which often causes them to clearly contradict each other), leads to the fact that some provisions have a dual interpretation. And this is no secret to anyone. Even professionals sometimes find it difficult to figure out who is right and who is wrong. If the disagreements between the owner and representatives of the ESO are fundamental, then it is necessary to ask them to in writing explain everything, and with reference to the documents that guide them.
Practice shows that quite often their demands are unlawful. Moreover, they simply impose certain services on us, literally forcing us to pay for them. Therefore, such a polite request, and even executed in writing, can cool more than one “hot” head.
And if the incident is not resolved, then it is worth consulting with a lawyer specializing in such issues. In addition, it is advisable that he be present when signing documents. First of all, which relate to the differentiation of belonging. The device is placed on this very “border”, but where to designate it (the “point” of the meter’s location) is the question. Naturally, the “dashing” Suppliers will identify it on the street. But if it can be proven that they will be provided with unhindered access, then it’s a different matter. The best option installations - inside the ASU.
The main thing is to understand the regulations and not be afraid to defend your rights. Let us recall some of them again. PUE-6 – articles 1.5.27 and 29, Civil Code- Art. 210, 421 and 422.
Many people believe that connecting an electricity meter,
a very complex and not simple task that only a competent person can do, qualified specialist electrician In fact, everything is funny
easy and simple, especially if you have detailed information at hand electric meter connection diagram, with step-by-step photographs and professional comments. This article contains just such instructions, which describe in detail Electric meter connection diagram. Taking advantage of it ,
Connecting yourself will not pose any difficulties for you.
There are counters of various designs:
- mechanical and electronic
- one tariff and two tariffs
- direct connection and secondary (the secondary meter is connected mainly in power cabinets and switchboards, for example, at the entrance to multi-storey building, at substations, where very large currents flow, it is connected to the circuit through current transformers), in everyday life only direct-connection meters are used
In this article, we will look at connecting a single-phase meter electrical energy direct connection. It should be noted that the connection diagrams for mechanical and electronic electricity meters are the same.
In our example, an electronic counter with a mechanical reading mechanism is used.
Preparatory work
Before connecting the electricity meter, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work. Install a box in which all equipment will be mounted.
Most modern meters are modular. This means that they are installed on a special mounting rail, which greatly facilitates and simplifies the installation process. Also, household series of protective equipment are modular, these include:
- circuit breakers
- RCD (residual current devices)
- differential automata
- various adapter terminals and zero buses
- voltage limiters
- voltage indicators
They are installed in special boxes made of special non-flammable plastic. These boxes can be wall-mounted or built-in, and have different sizes, which depend on the number of installation spaces inside the panel.
The box used in the example is mounted, designed for 24 installation positions, has two DIN rails with 12 places each. Din rail is a metal plate on which modular equipment is mounted.
Boxing consists of two main parts:
- outer - protective cover with door
- internal, - which includes one or more din rails, their number depends on how many installation positions the box is designed for. And a zero bus, designed to distribute the supply zero between all outgoing wires.
Let's move on to preparing the box for installation. Remove the top cover. To do this, you need to unscrew the 4 screws securing the outer cover.
Before us inner part boxing As you can see, it has two of the above-mentioned din rails.
And zero bus.
We mount the box on the wall. It is worth noting that according to the requirements of the PUE (electrical installation rules), the installation height of the meter indoors must correspond to certain dimensions, 0.8-1.7 meters from the floor. Such requirements are due to the fact that the inspector or sealer serving the electrical organization would have the opportunity to take meter readings without the use of stools and stepladders. The optimal installation height is the height of the average person's eye level, 1.6-1.7 meters.
IN depending on the wall material,We use the necessary fasteners, concrete dowels or wood screws.
And so, the box is installed. We proceed to the installation of modular equipment.
Installation of an electric meter and modular equipment
According to the PUE, a protective disconnecting device must be installed in front of the metering device (electricity meter). As a rule, in most cases, such a device is a two-pole circuit breaker. In the meter connection diagram, it performs the following functions:
1. Electric meter protection
- from short circuit,
- from fire, due to excess permissible load, for which the meter is designed,
- ability to perform meter replacement and maintenance work
2. Limitation of permitted power (regulated by the rating of the circuit breaker)
If necessary, you can read about in more detail.
In our example, the input protective device will be installed directly in the apartment panel, box. Also, in some cases, it can be installed in the floor panel, on the landing. Here, the main criterion is the method and possibility of filling.
Everything in the box must be sealed. If the service organization has the ability to seal the circuit breaker, then it is mounted in a box; if not, then in a floor panel. The machine is sealed with special stickers that are glued to the contact screws, top and bottom of the circuit breaker.The meter is sealed with plastic or lead seals.
Well, we've sorted out the sealing, let's get back to installing the electric meter.
Let's start with the installation of an input two-pole circuit breaker. Using a special latch located on the back wall of the machine, we install it on the upper DIN rail.
The main purpose of the electric meter is to measure the level of electricity consumption. Typically, the installation of such equipment is carried out by specialized employees, but if you wish, you can handle the installation of the electric meter yourself. The main thing is to carefully prepare for the upcoming event and do everything in accordance with the instructions, because if you install it yourself, all responsibility for the actions performed and possible consequences will rest solely with you.
Depending on the mechanism of action, electricity meters are divided into electronic and induction. Induction equipment is gradually being forced out of the market, mainly on the initiative of the government - such meters are very easy to “deceive”.
Electronic electricity meters are characterized by higher accuracy, smaller dimensions and excellent versatility. For example, modern electricity meters support operation in multi-tariff mode. This advantage is relevant for regions where electricity tariffs vary depending on the time of day. Therefore, when choosing between induction and electronic equipment, preference should definitely be given to the latter.
Electricity meters are classified according to the rated current value and accuracy indicators (class). The lower the class number of your meter, the less deviation it will work with.
To determine the approximate required rated current, divide the permissible value of active power provided by the network organization per consumer by the voltage of your network, i.e. 220V or 380V.
Typically, higher power is allocated for a three-phase connection, however, the use of single-phase networks in living conditions is more appropriate and preferable.
Difficulties with connecting the meter arise in situations in which the owner needs to power a building with a design current above 100 A. In such conditions, direct “insertion” of the meter is not feasible. To install metering equipment, you will need to additionally connect current transformers.
The use of any intermediate components leads to an increase in the error in metering electricity consumption, so the transformer circuit must be properly planned. The solution to this problem in mandatory carried out by a qualified specialist.
When choosing a meter, pay attention to the age of installation of the seal and the integrity of this element.
The state verifier's seal is attached to the screws of the casing of the metering device. The meter seal for a single-phase electrical network must be no older than 1 year. In the case of meters for three-phase networks, the maximum permissible period increases to 2 years.
You can handle the installation of an electric meter yourself without any problems. However, before you decide to “uncover” the pliers, obtain the necessary permits and other documents. To do this, contact your local network provider office with a request to issue technical specifications for the work. There you can conclude the necessary agreement.
The mentioned documents list a number of requirements that the user must fulfill before connecting the building to the power grid. The documentation also clearly delineates the responsibility between the electricity supplier and its consumer.
In accordance with current legislation, the homeowner must install a meter within his consumption networks. The best place To install the meter, use a heated distribution panel in the house. However, in Lately regulatory organizations require that accounting equipment be installed strictly outside the residential premises and be freely accessible to inspection organizations.
For example, a representative of the network company may require that you install an electric meter on the facade of your house or even on a nearby power pole. All these points are discussed individually. Apartment owners are usually required to place the equipment in question in a common panel on the site.
According to official statements, electricity suppliers are forcing owners to install meters on the street to ensure accessibility to the device for the purpose of taking readings and performing Maintenance. According to unofficial data, suppliers are trying to prevent the possibility of unauthorized access to metering equipment in order to steal electricity.
Electric meter connection diagrams
It is not necessary for a home master to understand any complex wiring diagrams for accounting devices. Therefore, we bring to your attention the most popular and basic options for connecting an electric meter.
The simplest option is a single-phase connection. To install such a network, you will need no more than 6 electrical wires without taking into account the load. The working “zero”, phase and ground cables are connected to the device input. Similar cables are placed at the output of the metering device.
For greater convenience and safety, it is recommended to install a circuit breaker in front of the meter. This device will automatically turn off the power supply in the event of an emergency.
Energy sales services do not have a very favorable attitude towards the mentioned switches. To avoid unnecessary problems and proceedings, the switch should be sealed using a special plastic box, a DIN rail and the seal itself. All these additional devices cost little, take up virtually no space, and are very easy to install, so take a little time and save yourself from unnecessary headaches.
The design of the accounting installation contains special terminal blocks, also known as buses. This device is a copper strip fixed using special dielectric clamps. There are several holes in the bar through which wires are connected using screw terminals. This connection option is suitable for situations where there is a need to connect several separate wires into a single whole.
Video - How to install a single-phase electric meter
There are a number of important requirements that you will have to strictly comply with when installing an electric meter. First, review the safety regulations that apply to any electrical equipment.
It is not recommended to install an electric meter at sub-zero temperatures. Electronics do not tolerate cold very well - under its influence, the accuracy of measurements decreases.
For most household models of electric meters, the minimum permissible temperature installation is +5 degrees. Therefore, if the metering device is installed outdoors, it is necessary to provide for the possibility of installing it in a special heated and hermetically sealed cabinet.
The mounting height of the unit is 80-170 cm above the ground. If you install the counter lower or higher, it will simply be inconvenient for you to take numerical readings from the screen.
Electric meter connection procedure
Self-installation of an electric meter is carried out in a few simple steps.
First step. Prepare the necessary equipment for installation, namely:
Second step. Find out how many phases (1 or 3) your electrical network has. Calculate the required number of circuit breakers.
Third step. Install the meter into the panel housing. To fix the product, use the fasteners included in the kit.
Fourth step. Install circuit breakers. These devices are fixed to the DIN rail. The rail is pre-attached to the support insulators using screws. The machine itself is fixed on the DIN rail using a spring-loaded latch.
Fifth step. Install the protective and ground bus on insulators inside the panel body or on a special DIN rail. Use nuts and mounting screws to secure the elements. Place the busbars at a distance to prevent cable short-circuits.
Start installation by connecting the load to the machines, then connect the machines to the electric meter and only then connect the meter directly.
Sixth step. Connect all loads. The phase will go to the lower terminals of the machines, connect the “zero” to the “zero” bus, run the grounding cable to the corresponding ground bus.
Seventh step. Connect the upper terminals of the circuit breakers with jumpers. You can buy ready-made jumpers at a specialized store.
Eighth step. Connect the meter to the load. To do this, connect the “phase” output (represented by the third terminal of the electric meter) to the upper terminals of the circuit breakers, and connect the “zero” output (the fourth terminal of the electric meter) to the corresponding zero bus.
Ninth step. Attach the electrical panel housing to a wall or other flat surface at the optimal height for you.
Tenth step. Find the neutral, phase and ground wires. In the absence of grounding, the work will be extremely simple: you check each core using the indicator pointer, and it itself indicates the phase. If there is grounding, its core is usually placed in green.
Eleventh step. Turn off the power at home.
Twelfth step. Connect the “phase” wire to the first terminal of the electric meter, and the “zero” wire to the third terminal.
At this point, the independent connection of the electric meter is considered complete. Check the device at idle and begin to gradually apply the load. After the preliminary check, contact the energy sales office with a request for additional checking and sealing of the meter.
Good luck!
Video - Installing an electric meter yourself
Good afternoon, dear guests and regular readers of the Electrician's Notes website.
Today I will tell you how to properly install and install an electric meter.
The installation of an electric meter is carried out in accordance with the requirements of the regulatory document, in accordance with the section on electricity metering.
1. Room
Electric energy meters must be installed in dry rooms and they must be located in convenient and accessible places for their maintenance. The temperature in such rooms should not be below 0°C and above 40°C.
If temperature regime difficult to organize, it is necessary to provide insulation in winter period, for example, install it in an insulated cabinet with the possibility of heating.
2. Installation location
Electricity meters are allowed to be installed in the following places:
- on the wall
- on panels and metering boards
- in closets
- in the relay compartments of the switchgear (complete switchgear)
3. Fastening
Electricity meters can be mounted:
- on metal shields
- in plastic shields and boxes (an example of installing a meter in an apartment)
- on wooden panels
4. Height
Installation and installation of electricity meters is carried out at a height of 800-1700 mm from the floor level, and also preferably at human eye level - for ease of maintenance and taking readings. This is strong evidence that we are at an unattainable height. Read more about this here.
5. Tilt angle
Induction electricity meters must be installed with an inclination angle of no more than 1°C. If this condition is not met, an additional error will occur.
6. Overall dimensions of cabinets, niches and panels
The most important condition for overall dimensions cabinets, niches and panels for installing electricity meters:
- lightweight and easy access to the electrical meter terminals and (if any)
- convenient opportunity for
7. Connecting wires to the electric meter
When connecting wires to the electricity meter, the following conditions must be observed:
- strip wires with a length of at least 12 (mm)
8. Switching devices
To quickly and safely replace electric meters with voltages up to 0.4 (kV), it is necessary to install a switching device (circuit breaker, fuses) in front of them at a distance of no more than 10 meters. More details about this.
Most often, the energy supply organization sees a method of theft or deception in installing a circuit breaker in front of the meter. Therefore, I recommend placing the circuit breaker in advance in a special plastic box that has an “eye” for sealing it.
P.S. Be sure to read my article about problems with the energy supply organization -
81 comments on the post “How to properly install an electric meter”
Now I will know how to install and install an electric meter. Thank you for the useful and detailed information.
Your site is a must-read for every man.
Ha ha ha funny video
The site is just a godsend for men
Regarding the eighth point, I would also like to add that this is a requirement of the PUE, which the power supply organization does not want to comply with in most cases, you wrote about the reason correctly.
Is it possible to cover a counter mounted on a metal panel on the wall with a chipboard cabinet with an MDF door? Will this be a violation?
Can. But why don’t you put it in a plastic box, it will be aesthetically pleasing.
The meter is not installed correctly; according to the PUE, it is necessary to install test blocks or boxes of the KIU3 type to allow safe servicing, because CT secondary circuits cannot be opened, in in this case a package circuit breaker does not provide safety (the box will cost less and the “electricians” will not find fault; there are requirements for the need to seal the metering circuits)! Also, according to the PUE, the installation height of the meter is from 0.8 to 1.7 meters, but is allowed from 0.4 m. When connecting 3-phase meters, it is necessary to observe the phase rotation, as well as the polarity of the secondary winding of current transformers (CTs), it is necessary to leave a reserve wires at least 5 cm. Stripping of the conductor should be carried out depending on the size of the terminal block of the meter, so that the insulation does not get under the clamps and the bare wire does not come out from under the terminal block cover. Modern microprocessor meters display the correctness of phase rotation and, moreover, practically do not change their error when it changes, but legally the energy supply organization will be right if it indicates an incorrect connection diagram. There are also bags with special caps that allow you to seal contacts. Installing the meter is easy, but you need to carefully study all the nuances.
Andrey, you probably haven’t read my articles: and about .
In this article, the counter is installed correctly. The inspector checked everything and put seals on it. Have you ever seen that in a residential private house the meter was installed through a terminal block?
Help me decide the “correct” height for installing a matrix meter on a street pole. The meter is installed outside normal reach, and the power grid obliges!!! use a stepladder to take readings. Requests and complaints about reinstalling the meter below are not responded to.
thank you, the article is useful. The question is that the meter is already installed at a height of 2.2 meters and they refuse to transfer it, what should I do?
Everything is fine, understandable, but the question is a little off topic. LENELEKTRO meter - what kind of alarm is in it, a red diode blinks under load, next to the arrow there is something like a diode. What is their role and what are they “talking about”?
Sergey, a red LED indicates the presence of current in the circuit, i.e. The greater the load consumed, the more frequently it blinks.
My store had a counter installed in the toilet. During the repair, I completely replaced the wiring and after re-sealing, the electrical network workers gave me an act to move the meter to another location. I refused the transfer. This room is not particularly damp. And before I purchased this store, the counter was there and no one cared about it. Are the actions of power grid workers correct?
Sergey, what is written in the act - what is the reason for the transfer.
Hello! Extremely useful site, thank you very much to the admin!!! Actually, my question is, does an energy-saving company have the right (legally) to refuse to commission the meter for me? (I’m going to install the meter myself). I don’t have permission. The building is an apartment building. P.S. I have been working in construction for 20 years, during which time I have mastered several related professions. I always do electrical work, plumbing, and much more at my sites, but I have never been refused commissioning. Thank you.
Tell me, the technical specifications were issued for 10 kW (but this is not enough for the present time), the system is three-phase, connect 4 4x16 SIPs. I want to install the meter immediately at 100A (so that there is a reserve), which machine before the meter and after (so that there is a reserve, because there is no power limiter. What if the real consumption will be more than 10 kW). The energy supply organization may prohibit installing the meter and machines at higher power. what is written in the technical specifications for joining.
Thank you
Vladimir, the nominal value of the input machine must be indicated in the technical specifications. For a 10 (kW) three-phase load this is 16 (A). The meter can be set to 100 (A) - there are no restrictions on this.
Dmitry, tell me this. As a supervisory organization, it will be able to control me if I install an electricity meter in my apartment, even though the input cable from the landing will run in my apartment at least 4 meters to the meter being installed. In other words, can I hide this cable in the wall or should it be visible along its entire length (to control unauthorized connections)?
In order to protect assemblies from theft of electricity, it is not necessary to install circuit breakers in boxes; it is enough to install plug seals on the screws of circuit breakers; fortunately, they are now available for all types of modern machines.
Alas, as the Consultant says, Resolution 530 has lost its force.
And the question is interesting. The meter is located on the staircase; I have not registered ownership of it in any way, but, according to the electric company, I am obliged to replace it at my own expense. There are a number of vague “legal acts”. Here, for example, are a couple. Civil Code, Article 543 clause 2: 2. In the case where the subscriber under an energy supply contract is a citizen who uses energy for domestic consumption, the obligation to ensure the proper technical condition and safety of energy networks, as well as energy consumption metering devices, rests with the energy supply organization....
Decree of the Government of the Russian Federation of August 13, 2006 N 491, appendix, clause 7: “The composition of the common property includes an intra-house power supply system, consisting of ... to individual, common (apartment) electricity meters, as well as other electrical equipment located on these networks."
From the latter it follows that the meter installed on the stairs is a consumer
In November 2014 I decided to change the wiring in a private house. At the same time, I replaced the electric meter. On November 26, 2014, I wrote an application to have the seal removed. On November 27, 2014, he removed the old one and installed a new meter in the same place, and immediately reported this. Then I went three more times and demanded that they put a seal and register the meter. On December 26, 2014 (a month later) they finally came to put a filling. They immediately stated that they refused to seal it because the meter was located at a height of more than 170 cm from the floor and drove away. I tried it on. Yes, height 195cm. But the old meter stood at the same height for about 15 years and there were no complaints. It suits me, it’s convenient for me. Am I going to have to redo everything?
Apparently it will have to be installed no more than 1.7 m
Good article
Why does MESK require the installation of Matrix meters, but I want to install Mercury, it’s cheaper, and they threaten not to issue a certificate of restrictions?!!!
Hello, are there any regulations for installing a meter on the street if there is a gas pipe nearby? There is no way to put it on a wall where there is no pipe! Thank you in advance!
Victor, good afternoon. According to the PUE, clause 7.1.50, the minimum distance from switches, plug sockets and electrical installation elements (this includes the electric meter) to gas pipelines must be at least 0.5 (m). Thus, it is allowed to install a meter on this wall, where your pipe runs, but only on the condition that there is at least half a meter from the pipe to the meter.
Hello! Our company is engaged in the installation and sealing of meters for the population in apartment buildings. Now the question has arisen again about allowing our electricians to carry out work.
On the one hand, these are networks that are serviced by REU, and we need to write them a letter to gain access to our people. But on the other hand, there is paragraph 7 of Resolution 491 which states: “The composition of the common property includes the in-house power supply system up to individual, common (apartment) electrical energy metering devices.” That is, it turns out that the meter is no longer a property serviced by the REU and you can use it without permission from them.
Please tell me which way to go? Or are there any other regulatory documents on this issue?
Good afternoon I want to install a counter in the toilet. Is it possible or not?
Maria, you can, but if the relative humidity in the toilet is no more than 60%.
PUE, clause 1.5.27. Meters should be located in dry rooms that are easily accessible for maintenance, in a place that is sufficiently free and not cramped for work...
Please help. Now an electrician from the management company came to seal my meter at my request. On October 19, I submitted another application on my own along with the claim, and so they spent 4 days thinking about what to do and decided to start a war with me. The electrician measured at what height the meter hangs and issued an order to hang it low, they indicated in the order based on Chapter 1.5 of PUE-7, the order indicated that an unsealed meter gives them the right to disconnect me from the network. I don’t find such a chapter, because I have some kind of incomplete version of PUE-7, but as far as I know that height is recommended and not a strictly mandatory requirement, I can see the readings even without a chair. The electrician says that since I am so competent and the first to start, they will also resist. They just resist strangely, I immediately told him that where my meter hangs, that’s where it will hang and I won’t change anything. I submitted my application on the 19th, they were supposed to arrive within 3 days, I didn’t sign anything, so legally no one came to me if anything. If anyone knows, please provide a link to the rules to clarify whether I have to redo the meter or is it recommended there? And in general, as you would advise, my corridor is narrow and if I hang the meter at eye height, it will interfere purely physically, even furniture cannot be brought in.
Decree of the Government of the Russian Federation dated 04.05.2012 N 442
(as amended on 09/04/2015)
144. Metering devices must be installed at the boundaries of the balance sheet of electric power facilities (power receiving devices) of adjacent entities retail market— consumers, producers of electrical energy (power) in retail markets, network organizations having a common balance sheet boundary (hereinafter referred to as adjacent entities of the retail market), as well as in other places determined in accordance with this section in compliance with those established by law Russian Federation requirements for installation locations of metering devices. If there is no technical possibility of installing a metering device at the border of the balance sheet of electric power facilities (power receiving devices) of adjacent entities of the retail market, the meter must be installed in a place as close as possible to the border of the balance sheet where it is technically possible to install it. At the same time, by agreement between adjacent entities of the retail market, a metering device to be used to determine the volume of consumption (production, transmission) of electrical energy of one entity can be installed within the boundaries of electric power facilities (power receiving devices) of another adjacent entity.
Hello!
I ask for help, I am completely confused in the mutually exclusive recommendations of “experts”.
I have a double entrance to the house:
first: 3-phase and 4 wires of 25 sq. mm (SIP); second: 1-ph and 2 wires of 10 sq. mm (copper).
Inputs from different substations. Separate grounding has been performed.
I have a question correct installation a metering unit consisting of two electricity meters: 1- and 3-phase. Where to combine zeros: before or after counters? How to eliminate double counting or, conversely, its absence? Will RCDs work on each of the four available phases? And what to do with grounding to make it the most reliable?
After the metering unit, it is planned to install an automatic transfer switch based on PF-60A for each phase - this seems to be the simplest option.
How can you avoid messing up with all this?
Sincerely, Vladimir.
But what should I do if I have a soldering box in front of the electrical cabinet with packets and a meter, and there are input wires on nuts, how can I seal it all?
Igor, this is not your problem, but a problem of the power grids. And it is easy to seal - the whole box as a whole, for example, using the same paper seals.
single-phase metering for a private house, which machine should be installed before the metering device - one- or two-pole, is there any technical regulation for this? I would like to know the section and paragraph of the PUE to tell the controller
When installing an electric meter on a private house, should the meter be immediately sealed or what?
When should the filling be placed? when installing the meter?
Darima, after installing the meter, invite an inspector. He will check the connection diagram, draw up a report () and install a seal.
I changed the electric meter in a private house. The electricians don’t want to seal it until I put the meter in a box. The electric meter is located indoors. Are there any instructions on this matter?
Yuri.
According to GOST R 51732-2001 “Input and distribution devices for residential and public buildings. General technical conditions"
- concept of ASU: Electrical device low voltage, containing equipment that provides the possibility of input, distribution and metering of electricity, as well as control and protection of outgoing distribution and group electrical circuits in residential and public buildings, which is located in the form of corresponding functional units in one or more interconnected (mechanically and electrically) panels or in one cabinet, depending on the type of building according to 3.2
And according to the PUE, if the input distribution device is not located in a separate electrical room, then it must have protection not lower than IP31, that is, the equipment must be covered on all sides with a casing, and the casing should not be made of wood, but should ensure that fire does not spread through to the same GOST - either from steel or from special plastic with an appropriate certificate for fire resistance.
So at the electricity input there must be a box or panel installed in which the input and distribution switches, an electric meter and something else like a 300 mA RCD (mandatory according to fire safety regulations) and a surge suppressor (required for air input according to the norms) are installed together. PUE).
Thus, although the electrical network specialist was unable to substantiate his demands, he is right... It seems so to me.
Another thing is whether replacing the electric meter is the basis for changing third-party equipment.
There are no strict requirements and phrases in regulatory documents or in the same PUE that the meter must be in a closed casing when replacing it or even installing it. This is the situation today.
Good afternoon.
I have a couple of questions.
1. It's time to change the old meter in the apartment. The house is old, with high ceilings. Elektposhit stands under the ceiling. Previously, we entered the readings ourselves and climbed there ourselves using an existing stepladder. Then energy sales workers began to climb. They had no complaints about installing the old meter. And now it needs to be changed and, according to the rules, set much lower. But it doesn’t work lower; there’s a closet underneath. And on the side of the closet there are doorways. That is, it is impossible to lower the counter there. And moving it to the side turns out to be too far. Is it possible for me, in principle, to install a new meter in the old place, if there is a stepladder in the apartment to access it?
2. Along with the meter, I will also install a new electrical panel. In a small box, under sealing, there will be an input machine. And in a large plastic box there will be a counter and machines. Meter on DIN rail Neva 103/5. Will there be any quibbles in the sense that the meter seals (after sealing) will be covered by the front panel of the box and are inaccessible for control when readings are taken by energy sales employees? Maybe it's worth making holes in the box panel so that the seals are visible?
Hello!
In the question dated 07/01/15: “Hello, are there standards for installing a meter on the street if there is a gas pipe nearby? There is no way to put it on a wall where there is no pipe! Thank you in advance!"
You answered: “According to the PUE, clause 7.1.50, the minimum distance from switches, plug sockets and electrical installation elements (this includes the electric meter) to gas pipelines must be at least 0.5 (m). Thus, it is allowed to install a meter on this wall, where your pipe runs, but only on the condition that there is at least half a meter from the pipe to the meter.”
I am interested in the following: a gas meter is installed on the street wall of a private house (on the corner of the house). But there is already an electrical supply to the house (an electrical meter and a 2-phase circuit breaker are installed on the wall and all this is in a special plastic box) from the corner of the house to the electrical structure 80 cm.
When installing a gas meter, Gorgaz says “you can’t get too close, the electricians will scold you”...
There is a point: “7.1.28. VU, ASU, main switchboard, as a rule, should be installed in electrical switchboard rooms accessible only to maintenance personnel. In areas prone to flooding, they should be installed above the flood level.
……
When placing VU, ASU, main switchboards, distribution points and group panels outside electrical switchboard rooms, they must be installed in places convenient and accessible for maintenance, in cabinets with a shell protection degree of at least IP31.
The distance from pipelines (water supply, heating, sewerage, internal drains), gas pipelines and gas meters to the installation site must be at least 1 m.” the same document.
So which point should I focus on??????
I want both meters to be on the same wall, starting from the street of the house.
Good afternoon
I agreed with the RES to leave my meter in the house, but now they require VISIBLE wires to be installed to the meter, so that, according to them, I would not be able to steal electricity. In response to my question about the legality of this requirement, they sent me to read the PUE. I’m reading the PUE... If there are such requirements?
Thanks in advance!
Valery, since the times of the USSR there are always the same letters, but different sides, were read differently. Especially officials. Obviously, they already have the PUE not of the 7th, but of the 17th edition.
One of these days I will go to the chief engineer of the RES again. I’ll ask a question: on the basis of what specific clause of the PUE do they require the installation of OPEN wiring to the meter. I'll write about the results.
We were transferred to another energy company and they gave us an order to replace the meter, it is located on the street, but they refused to replace it themselves! As a result, the meter is hanging on the wires in the box, it was sealed! Now he produces 1000 square meters per month more than he already has, but I can’t achieve anything! Previously I paid for 300 kW, but now for 1300-1500, although energy consumption is maximum 250-300 kW. I don’t know what to do next and how to deal with it!
Hello. I live in a five-story apartment building. I want to change the input to the apartment (from the switchboard, I live on the 1st floor), install three phases and install a three-phase meter. Will they take him into account? or do you need to fulfill some additional requirements?
nia?
Sergey, in order to switch from single-phase input to three-phase, and accordingly, register three-phase metering in the apartment, you first need to submit an application and obtain permission. The fact is that the house power supply project does not provide for powering the apartments from a three-phase 380 (V) network, with the exception of residential buildings with luxury apartments. But if internal networks allow you to increase power consumption, then you will be given permission without any problems and will be given specifications that must be fulfilled. But the question is different?! Why do you need three-phase input in your apartment? Is there not enough power from one phase or are there three-phase consumers?!
Good afternoon, we bought a house in the village (the electric meter is old inside the house), we began to re-register the documents in our name, and Energosbyt set a condition: to place the meter on a pole street lighting in the courtyard. Is it possible for us to simply replace the old meter with a new one, but without taking it outside. Energosbyt engineers claim that without this we will not be able to re-issue the documents. Thanks in advance.
Good afternoon, I’m dealing with the redevelopment of an apartment here, I talked with the PIB engineer, and among other things, she gave the following: your meter is not installed correctly, it is on the outside wall of the bathroom, in an iron cabinet..
You write that it cannot be installed in wet rooms, but she claims that it can also be installed on the outer walls of these rooms. Tell me, is this true, and where is it written in the regulations?
Ilya, there are no prohibitions on installing meters on the outer wall of a bathroom in the Rules. It is only prohibited to install switchgear and control devices (PUE, clause 7.1.52), distribution boxes, as well as sockets and switches (PUE, clause 7.1.48) in the bathroom itself at a distance closer than 60 (cm) from the door opening of a shower stall or faucet. There are no prohibitions on the outer wall, especially if the meter is installed in a panel. By the way, what is the level of protection of the shield? What kind of design, external or internal? Next time, don’t get lost and ask the engineer which point of the Rules she refers to, let him indicate a specific point.
the cheapest metal hanging box, screwed with self-tapping screws to the wall through the holes inside without any gaskets, in theory, if water runs along the wall, it may well get into the panel.
The engineer is somehow having a hard time with specific documents...
I saw somewhere on the Internet that you can’t install it in rooms located under bathrooms and toilet units, maybe this plays a role, the neighbors have the same toilet unit, and if mine doesn’t leak, then their water flows just like this the wall might go
Ilya, here is the excerpt you mean. PUE, clause 7.1.29. Electrical switchboard rooms, as well as VU, ASU, main switchboards, are not allowed to be located under toilets, bathrooms, showers, kitchens (except for apartment kitchens), sinks, washing and steam rooms of bathhouses and other rooms associated with wet technological processes, except in cases where special measures have been taken to reliable waterproofing, preventing moisture from entering the premises where distribution devices are installed.
Here we are talking about electrical switchboard rooms, input switchboards (IDUs) and main distribution boards (MSB), and not about distribution and group switchboards. And if we judge this way, then flooding may occur not only along the adjacent wall of the bathroom. In general, of course, it’s up to you to decide, but I answered your question. There is no explicit prohibition on installing an apartment panel on the bathroom wall. I’ll also add from my practice, in many new buildings where we carried out commissioning, apartment panels were installed precisely on the wall with the bathroom, and this was officially approved by the project and the relevant regulatory authorities.
Good afternoon 1.5 years ago, the Energy Management Company installed an electric meter at its own expense and assured that it was a 1-tariff meter, without providing the meter’s passport. When submitting an application for the installation of a 2-tariff meter / purchased by me /, the company notifies me that the meter, The one they previously installed is a 2-tariff one and they are ready to transfer it to 2 tariffs. Can I insist on installing my new meter and how to do it, because... I incurred certain costs for the purchase of a meter and there is a suspicion that the meter is not working correctly / after installing their meter, large bills come /
How and with what did you establish that the SE is not working correctly? BEFORE this, what kind of SE did you have, with a wheel?
Good day!
They ordered me to change the electric meter (it worked for 15 years), with mandatory installation on the street.
I purchased the meter in a store with a passport, which has a factory verification stamp.
It was confiscated from me, supposedly for additional verification.
A week passed and the meter was returned.
I installed the meter myself, since I have certain knowledge in electrical engineering.
The old meter has not been removed, it is sealed and is in the house.
I wrote an application to seal a new meter and received an answer that checking the correct installation of a new electric meter is a paid service and only after payment they will come, check and seal it.
Is this legal?
By the way, since I now have both electric meters working, I recorded the readings of both and came to the conclusion that the new meter counts 1 kW more in 24 hours. It turns out that 365 kW per year will have to be paid extra....
If only you could write at least a word about the full name of the new and old SE.
You never know what and where you purchased, what is the MPI of this SE? Guess?
Hello. Please explain about mounting electric meters on wooden panels. Does this mean that meters can be installed on removable chipboard panels that cover the electrical shaft in an apartment building on the staircase.
Vitaly, according to the PUE, it is possible. But, according to common sense, I would not recommend it! It is better to use plastic, metal or other non-flammable materials.
This fluff is chipboard, not for such use. If that’s what you want, then I’d take bakelite plywood - it’s durable, doesn’t rot, isn’t afraid of moisture, absorbs very little of it, and doesn’t just burn. And the view is decent.
Thanks for the answer about removable panels. But this means that the rules allow meters to be mounted on doors.
Well, why distort? Removable does not mean anything except that they are not a monolithic fragment of a wall, but a kind of built-in/removable/replaceable structural element.
Any wall-mounted or built-in wall panel/box/cabinet is also replaceable/replaceable, or is it comparable to a window?
I'm talking about the cover that covers the electric riser. shaft, and not just about some decorative/built-in/removable/replaceable structural element.” This cover, along the edges, is attached to the wall. Unscrew the fasteners and take the meter away.
And yet, I have never seen a meter on the electric cover. panel or cabinet with el. equipment.
This is your first message about the lid, you should have written like that right away.
Dear Admin! Today a conflict arose with local distribution zones - they were replacing a PU in a 0.4 kV cell of a Soviet-era street transformer 10/0.4 kV - 400 kVA. The metering inspector arrived and stated that the control panel needed to be taken outside, saying that the transformer substation was a 10 kV electrical installation and should not have meters in it. Frankly speaking, I sent him to hell...!
...retraining. After all, nowhere, as far as I remember, does it say that it is impossible to install PUs in cells of 0.4 kV transformer substations. I'm right?
Hello, can you tell me about an old private house and a meter on the wall inside, the wires to the meter are laid in the wall, is it necessary to lay the wires to the meter openly (like it’s clear that we’re not stealing) and are there pue points about this?
What do they demand?
Hello. We live in SNT. We recently completely changed the wiring in the house to hidden, and installed a new meter in the old place. The main cable runs from the attic through a hole in the ceiling as before the replacement. the shortest route directly into a box no more than 3 meters long. Our local electrician refused to seal the meter, arguing that the cable should go outside around the perimeter of the house and enter through a hole in the street wall, openly going down to the box. Taking into account these requirements, this means that instead of 3 meters, it will be necessary to pull all 10, and drill a wall at least 40 cm thick. The electrician himself admits that most of houses are sealed without taking these requirements into account. Are his claims legitimate or can they be challenged?
Argue if it helps. SNT has its own rules, with whom will you argue?
To begin with, I would like to ask you to familiarize yourself with the official decision of SNT on the standards for installing electricity, if there is one. When they came to remove the old meter, they verbally warned that there were restrictions of 20 amperes, not a word about the cable on the street. This issue was not raised at the meetings either. The meter at my parents’ house was sealed a year ago, no problem. Now the electrician has changed, and with him new rules. It’s true that it’s not yet clear who wrote them...
Oh, mom, it seems you don’t understand the difference between the terms OFFICIAL and SNT DECISION. Well, it turned out that we agreed, decided and bypassed your notorious “official” decision, it happens.
And in conclusion - if it’s OFFICIAL, then... It’s true that it’s not yet clear who wrote it... how to understand it?
All these local issues are decided according to the place where they appear; what kind of officialdom are we talking about? Even the court will not consider this. Believe me.
Yes, you are right, I don’t understand either the difference or the logic. There is a solution to why they weren’t familiarized with it; there’s no such thing, which means they have to seal it.
Thanks for the advice.
Sorry, but your questions go beyond electrics! Well, who is to blame that you were not allowed to read the decision of the meeting, the SNT council, against receipt, why didn’t you ask? Why your neighbor has this, but they demand something different from you, also does not apply to electricians.
The time has come to replace the MPI meter in a private house in a village in the Moscow region. I calculated the maximum load with all devices turned on, it is 7.2 kW. I want to install a 32 A input machine to the meter, since the village is not gasified and I cook food on an electric stove. But the Mosenergosbyt electrician wants to install a machine with only 25 A, that is, a total power of 5 kW. In the village, the power lines and general equipment have been modernized and new ones have been installed. Agreements for maximum feed There is no power for my house, since the old meter is 40 years old.
Please tell me which document describes these norms. I want to install a single-phase multi-tariff meter.
This is all up to local service providers. They give you 25 - take it, they often limit it to 16 amperes.
Just because you counted 7 kW does not mean that all of this is turned on at the same time.
Considering the look of your ancient wiring in the photo, it’s not worth talking about 25 amperes.
At the end of 2009, our country adopted a law on energy saving, obliging all owners of buildings, structures, residential buildings, as well as individual apartments and premises in multi-apartment buildings, to ensure that water coming from water supply networks is accounted for.
The feasibility of installing water meters
Installing water meters requires funds; nothing is being done for free now, but the law does not provide for funding for these activities from the budget. The costs required to install water meters are borne by the building owners. The Russian government considered that the savings received after installing metering devices would cover the costs of their installation.
To date, the installation deadline for metering devices has expired, despite the fact that they have been postponed several times. Nevertheless, the equipment of apartments, and especially individual houses, remains at a low level. The reasons for this situation are obvious:
- Lack of production capacity to produce a sufficient number of metering devices at the time of adoption of the law;
- Difficulty in installation and commissioning (at the initial stage, only organizations engaged in construction activities had the ability to install water meters);
- Lack of penalties for citizens who do not comply with the law.
Payback of the meter - Photo 03
The installation of a meter in itself is not a water saving measure. It’s just that with it we stop thoughtlessly pouring water, forgetting to turn off the tap, or not repairing a leaking toilet flush tank for months. This reduces overall consumption drinking water, and bills for public utilities. The cost of installing water meters pays off for quite a long time, but given the reduction in payments for sewerage, saving 20-30 rubles per month per person is not difficult.
Payback of the meter hot water occurs even faster due to the high cost of thermal energy. And the installation of individual metering devices on credit for up to 5 years at the Central Bank refinancing rate, which is the responsibility of the energy supply organization, actually becomes free.
Legal regulations affecting the process of installing metering devices
For owners who do not want to equip their premises with meters, the law provides for sanctions in the form of forced installation of water meters by the energy supply organization. But this provision of the law does not yet work, since the mass installation of metering devices has led to a decrease in the income of organizations supplying water to settlements, since the state limits the growth of tariffs.
Laws are constantly being improved; for example, since 2011, independent installation of water meters for individual houses and apartments has been allowed. Since 2015, changes to the “Rules for Setting Standards for Public Utilities” have come into force, putting rubles on the pockets of careless owners. Most regions of the country already have increased standards for water consumed without meters.
Costs for water supply and sanitation for owners who ignore the law will increase every 6 months and, in addition to inflationary price increases, will increase 1.6 times over 2 years.
Rules for installing water meters
It is quite easy to install water meters in your apartment. If the installation of a common house meter requires an organization carrying out this type of activity and a special project that is carried out in accordance with building codes and regulations, then an individual water meter is installed based on the instructions specified in the device’s passport. Rules for installing water meters in apartments have not yet been developed by anyone and, most likely, they will never appear, but there are certain points in the regulatory documents that must be observed.
- Water meters must not be installed in hard-to-reach places, and the reading scale must be visible to the naked eye.
- It is necessary to observe the lengths of straight sections of pipes after and before the device specified in the passport.
- Some devices are supplied with connecting pipes, the installation of which eliminates the issue of straight sections.
Water meter installation diagram
The simplest diagram for installing a water meter in an apartment looks like this:
To provide water during repairs or verification of the meter, a bypass with a shut-off device can be provided in the circuit. It is much cheaper to make a pipe of the appropriate length and insert it instead of the meter. Sometimes after the counter it is placed check valve, but such a device is necessary when there is a reserve capacity in the apartment. On some meter models, the manufacturer installs strainer. Then the filter (No. 2) can be excluded from the circuit. The wiring diagram shows the following as disconnecting devices: Ball Valves. The use of valves instead of them, of course, is allowed, but less resistance and the absence of rubber gaskets increase the pressure of water flowing from the tap and simplify operation.
Features of selection, verification and replacement of water meters
The choice of a water meter is made based on its consumption, and the size of the connecting pipes of the device is most often smaller than the cross-section of the pipes into which it cuts, but a water meter is usually installed in the apartment in accordance with the diameter of the water supply. Water meters from various manufacturers are now on sale.
The question immediately arises - what kind of water meters to install? When choosing the cheapest one, you can make a mistake. Warranty period and operating time, duration of the calibration interval, ease of installation - these are additional criteria that must be taken into account. The manufacturing time of the meter is also important, because the longer it sits on the store counter, the sooner you will have to carry out the next verification.
The calibration interval for cold water meters is usually 6 years. Water meters for hot water metering last 4 years until the next verification. But there are manufacturers who produce water meters with other calibration intervals.
Unfortunately, re-testing meters rarely gives positive results. Having paid a considerable amount for verification, you may be denied further use. You can check the accuracy of the device yourself. Having simultaneously fully opened all the taps in the apartment and filled the containers with water, carefully count the spilled volume and compare it with the readings of your meter. If the error is above 2%, then the meter most likely will not pass verification, and it is better to buy and install a new one.
Choosing a location and technology for installing water meters with your own hands
The installation location of the water meter in an individual residential building must be agreed with the supplier. Installation of a water meter in an apartment does not require such approval. Usually it is placed immediately after the shut-off device on the riser (in the diagram this is the valve in front of the filter). The technology for installing water meters is quite simple. When buying a meter, purchase taps, a filter, bends, couplings, lock nuts, and sections of pipes with threads of the required sizes. Putting it all together using FUM or linen tape is not difficult for a man.
It’s even easier to install water meters with your own hands when using metal-plastic pipes and fittings. But it will not be possible to embed a meter into a polypropylene water supply without a welding machine.
Please note that the valve on the riser is a common property of the house; you have already paid for its repair and maintenance using a monthly receipt from the management company. If a closed valve allows water to pass through, then there is no need to turn off the common tap on the riser. It is enough to submit a request to the service organization about the need for repairs.
Putting the meter into operation and sealing it
To register a water meter, you must submit an application to the management company, attach to it a water meter installation diagram (a drawing on a piece of paper is enough) and a photocopy of the device’s passport. Agree on the arrival time of a technician who will check the correct installation and install seals on the meter and the bypass shut-off device (if there is one). Breaking the seals automatically deprives you of the right to use a water meter to record its consumption.
The signed act of commissioning a water meter imposes some responsibilities on you. It is necessary to submit monthly meter readings to the operating organization. The deadlines for data transfer are strict, but if there are no readings, problems will not arise for 3 months. During this period, bills will be presented based on average monthly consumption. Then the calculation will proceed according to the standard.
In addition, it will be necessary to allow employees of the management company to check the meter. Such checks are carried out no more than once every 6 months, but refusal to do so may result in the loss of the opportunity to pay for your water consumption using the meter, and the management company will have the right to charge you water consumption according to the standard.
Some cases from practice
Special attention should be paid to the points of the rules by cunning people who make taps into the water supply system in addition to the metering device. The water supplier, in case of detection of illegal withdrawal, has the right to make a calculation based on the maximum water flow through such a pipe. The time taken into account in the calculation does not exceed 6 months, but the amount of the fine even through a pipe with a diameter of 15 mm can be 100 thousand rubles or more.
The use of metering devices does not eliminate the problem of water leaks into the sewer system through faulty shut-off valves toilets or torn faucet gaskets. The fact is that water meters have a sensitivity threshold of 1% of the nominal flow. An apartment water meter DN 15 mm can pass through up to 15 liters of water per hour, and the meter dial will not move. There are many cases when a single pensioner, who uses 5-6 m³ of water per month according to the meter, has 10-11 m³ of it drained into the sewer every month through a leaking toilet.
Currently, management companies only have the right to inspect the condition of equipment inside apartments, but cannot fine negligent owners or force them to repair faulty sanitary fixtures. The difference between the common house meter and the sum of apartment meters that arises when large quantities Management companies are forced to cover minor leaks from their income. This difference in some houses reaches 35-40% of total consumption. The Government of the Russian Federation urgently needs to make changes to the “Rules...”, allowing management organizations to register apartment leaks and collect the corresponding amounts from apartment owners.
