Crop rotation in the garden and summer cottage. The correct alternation of growing plants in your beds. How to make your own crop rotation scheme

The word "crop rotation" is familiar to almost every gardener. However, in practice, the use of crop rotation is quite difficult and often neglected, especially in a small garden. But if you are not afraid and delve into the question, then this principle of planting vegetables will not be so inaccessible. You just need to pick up a pencil, prepare a sheet of paper and draw up a planting plan for your version of the beds. Moreover, there are as many as five ways to build a crop rotation for small areas! And even the simplest of them can give a significant increase in yield, and at the same time significantly reduce the problems that arise as a result of growing monocultures.

Compiling a list of crops

The first thing you need to start building a crop rotation is to make a list of vegetables planted in your garden. Potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, carrots, onions, garlic, parsley... If something is not an annual crop, don't list it so as not to complicate your task.

We calculate the number of beds

The second step is to determine the number of beds allocated for crop rotation. The most practical is the alternation of 4 - 5 sections. But there are also three-field, and six-field, and seven-field and even twelve-field crop rotations.

If you do not have an established number of beds, then which option will suit you will become clear in the course of the article.

Mark Rowland

Building a crop rotation

The basic principle of building a crop rotation is the annual change of crops grown in a particular place.

This, firstly, makes it possible to exclude soil fatigue in a given area (since the same crop grown on the same area annually selects mainly the same nutrients, from the same depth). Secondly, it prevents the accumulation and spread of pests and diseases that affect not only one crop, but also different vegetables one family. Thirdly, it allows you to correctly use fertilizers applied to the soil, since different crops have different attitude to fertility.

Thus, even if every year you plant vegetables belonging to a different family than those that grew last season, this will already be the most primitive way to observe crop rotation!

We could stop there, but it is interesting to consider deeper options for approaching this issue.

Crop rotation method No. 1. Alternation of cultures by groups

One of the most simple solutions construction of crop rotation is based on the breakdown of all vegetable crops into four main groups.

Alternation in this case is carried out in the following order:

• 1st year: 1st bed - fruit, 2nd bed - root crops, 3rd bed - legumes, 4th bed - leafy.
• On the 2nd year fruit go to the 4th bed, root crops to the 1st, legumes to the 2nd and leafy to the 3rd. It turns out: 1st root crops, 2nd legumes, 3rd leafy, 4th fruit.
• For the 3rd year, root crops go to the fourth bed, and the rest of the group again moves one step forward. And so, every new season.

Crop rotation method No. 2. Rotation of crops according to soil requirements

The next simple way of compiling a crop rotation is the alternation of crops according to the exactingness of the soil. On this basis, vegetables are also divided into 4 main groups.

However, here it is necessary to know the belonging of crops to botanical families.

Alternation by this principle goes like this:

vegetables demanding on fertility → medium demanding → not demanding → legumes.

Dobies of Devon

Crop rotation method No. 3. Alternation of crops by families

This method is based on the alternation of crops from different families. Their sequence should be as follows:

nightshades (excluding potatoes) → legumes → cabbages → umbrellas

or:

cucurbits → legumes → cabbage → haze

or:

solanaceous → legumes → cabbage → haze

At the same time, garlic and onions can be planted before winter after nightshade.

Crop rotation method No. 4. Rotation of crops according to the effect on the soil

Based on the fact that each crop leaves behind not only pathogens, certain indicators of soil contamination weeds, but also the lack of one or another element, crops can be alternated according to their effect on the soil.

AT this case the principle of alternation is as follows:

plants that strongly deplete the soil → moderately deplete the soil → weakly deplete the soil → enrich the soil

Crop rotation method No. 5. Rotation of crops according to the best predecessor

And finally, the last, most time-consuming method of crop rotation planning, but at the same time the most full-fledged.

It consists in the choice of crops for alternation according to the best predecessor and includes the full set of factors that contribute to the preservation of fertility and the exclusion of contamination and infection of the site with diseases. When building it, it is easier to use the derived table.

Major crops and their predecessors
eggplant
the best	admissible	invalid
	cabbage of medium and late varieties, corn, spicy flavors, beets
Notes: Eggplant is an unacceptable predecessor for nightshade and melons, for all other crops it is acceptable.
Legumes (peas, chickpeas, beans)
the best	admissible	invalid
garden strawberries, early potatoes, cabbage (all types), zucchini, onions, cucumbers, squash, pumpkin, garlic	eggplants, greens, carrots, peppers, spicy flavors, green manure, beets, tomatoes	legumes, corn
Notes: Legumes for vegetable crops are not only the best predecessor, but also an excellent green manure. They can be returned to their original place after 2-3 years, however, these crops are not afraid of growing in one place.
Greens (onions, spinach, lettuce) and spice flavors (basil, coriander)
the best	admissible	invalid
legumes, cucumbers, zucchini, early white cabbage, cauliflower, onion, squash, green manure, pumpkin, garlic	eggplants, greens, early potatoes, corn, peppers, spice flavors, tomatoes, beets	medium and late-ripening white cabbage, carrots
Notes: These two groups of plants are a good and acceptable predecessor for all vegetable crops, except for onions. They can be returned to their original place after 3-4 years.
Zucchini
the best	admissible	invalid
Notes: Zucchini, as a predecessor, tends to leave behind a minimum of weeds. After it, you can plant any vegetable crops. Zucchini can be returned to its original place after 2-3 years.
Cabbage
the best	admissible	invalid
legumes, zucchini, early potatoes (for medium and late varieties), onions, carrots (for medium and late varieties), cucumbers, tomatoes, green manure, beans	peas, greens, eggplant, pepper, lettuce, tomatoes	cabbage, cucumbers, radishes, beets, pumpkin
Notes: Cauliflower and early varieties of white cabbage are an excellent precursor for all vegetable crops, but mid-ripening and late varieties are unacceptable as a precursor for greens and spicy flavors. It can be returned to its original place after 3-4 years.
Potato
the best	admissible	invalid
legumes, early white cabbage, cauliflower, zucchini, onions, cucumbers, squash, green manure, pumpkin, garlic	greens, cabbage of medium and late varieties, corn, carrots, spicy flavors, beets	tomatoes, peppers, eggplants;
Notes: Potatoes can be grown as a monoculture with increased care. After potatoes, it is good to plant cabbage of medium and late varieties, carrots, beets, onions, legumes, it is unacceptable - cauliflower and early cabbage, nightshade. In crop rotation, it can be returned to its original place after 2-3 years.
Corn
the best	admissible	invalid
legumes, potatoes, beets	all cultures	millet
Notes: Corn can be grown in one place as a monoculture for up to 10 years, with the introduction of manure for digging. After it, you can plant any crops.
Onion
the best	admissible	invalid
legumes, zucchini, early potatoes, early white cabbage, cauliflower, cucumbers, squash, pumpkin, green manure		greens, carrots, spice flavors
Notes: After onions, you can grow any vegetables except garlic. They can be returned to their original place after 3-4 years. However, leeks are not afraid of growing in one place for several seasons.
Carrot
the best	admissible	invalid
greens, cabbage, onions, zucchini, early potatoes, cucumbers, squash, spice flavors, pumpkin	eggplants, legumes, cabbage, corn, onions, peppers, radishes, beets, tomatoes, garlic	beet
Notes: Carrots are a good precursor for cabbage, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, unacceptable for melons, onions, herbs, spices.
cucumbers
the best	admissible	invalid
legumes, potatoes, early white cabbage, parsley, cauliflower, corn, onion, garlic	legumes, greens, early potatoes, spice flavors, beets	eggplant, white cabbage of medium and late varieties, carrots, peppers, tomatoes, pumpkin
Notes: After cucumbers, you can plant any vegetables. They can be returned to their original place after 2-3 years.
Squash
the best	admissible	invalid
basil, legumes, potatoes, early white cabbage, cauliflower, corn, onion, garlic	legumes, greens, early potatoes, spice flavors, beets	eggplant, white cabbage of medium and late varieties, carrots, peppers, tomatoes, pumpkin
Notes: Squash is a good predecessor for all vegetable crops. It can be returned to its original place after 2-3 years.
Pepper
the best	admissible	invalid
melons, legumes, greens, zucchini, white cabbage of early varieties, cauliflower, onions, carrots, cucumbers, squash, green manure, pumpkin, garlic	cabbage of medium and late varieties, corn, spicy flavors, radishes, beets	eggplant, early potatoes, peppers, tomatoes, pumpkin
Notes: Pepper is an acceptable predecessor for all crops except nightshades and melons.
Sunflower
the best	admissible	invalid
legumes, corn	potato	peas, tomatoes, beets, beans
Notes: Sunflower is a very poor predecessor for any crop, it can be returned to its original place no earlier than after 6-8 years, after which green manure is sown - white mustard, peas, vetch.
Radish
the best	admissible	invalid
legumes, potatoes, onions, cucumbers, tomatoes, garlic, strawberries	eggplant, greens, corn, pepper, spicy flavors, tomatoes, beets	cabbage, carrot
Notes: Radish is a fast-growing crop, so it can be grown in row spacing between main crops. After it, it is good to plant strawberries.
Beetroot
the best	admissible	invalid
greens, zucchini, onions, cucumbers, squash, spicy flavors, pumpkin, green manure	legumes, eggplants, early white cabbage, cauliflower, corn, onions, carrots, peppers, tomatoes, garlic	cabbage of medium and late varieties, potatoes, beets
Notes: Beets should be planted in the garden for 2-3 years after applying organic fertilizers. After it, it is good to plant legumes, it is unacceptable - cabbage and root crops. Beets can be returned to their original place after 2-3 years.
tomatoes
the best	admissible	invalid
basil, peas, greens, early white cabbage, cauliflower, carrots, cucumbers, green manure	legumes, white cabbage of medium and late ripening, corn, onion, spicy flavors, beets, garlic	eggplant, early potatoes, peppers, tomatoes
Notes: Tomatoes are allowed in cultivation without crop rotation, however, in this case, they require increased care. After the culture, it is not recommended to plant nightshade and melons; for the rest, tomato is an acceptable predecessor. It can be returned to its original place after 2-3 years.
Pumpkin
the best	admissible	invalid
legumes, potatoes, early white cabbage, cauliflower, corn, onion, parsley, garlic	legumes, greens, early potatoes, spice flavors, beets	eggplant, white cabbage of medium and late varieties, carrots, peppers, tomatoes, pumpkin
Notes: Pumpkin leaves behind a weed-free land and can be a good forerunner for all crops. It can be returned to its original place after 2-3 years.
Garlic
the best	admissible	invalid
legumes, zucchini, early potatoes, early white cabbage, cauliflower, carrots, cucumbers, squash, pumpkin, green manure	eggplants, white cabbage of medium and late varieties, corn, onions, peppers, beets, tomatoes, garlic	greens, carrots, spice flavors, radishes
Notes: Garlic not only disinfects the soil well, but also leaves it practically free of weeds. After it, you can grow any crops, except for onions. Garlic can be returned to its original place after 3-4 years.
Garden strawberry
the best	admissible	invalid
legumes, onions, radishes, carrots, garlic, dill	cabbage, corn	potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes
Notes: After tomatoes, potatoes and cucumbers, strawberries can be grown no earlier than in 3-4 years. The very same culture is a valid predecessor for legumes, garlic, onions, parsley.

An example of a crop rotation according to this principle may be the following:

cabbage → cucumbers → tomatoes → carrots or cucumbers → garlic → beans → spinach or cabbage → tomatoes → carrots → potatoes

However, potatoes, due to the need to grow on large areas can be excluded from crop rotation and grown as a monoculture. In this case, under it annually contribute a large number of organics and mineral fertilizers and carefully monitor the quality of seed material. At the same time, once every few years, organic fertilizers are replaced with green manure.

Maize can also be grown outside the crop rotation. This culture is not demanding on its predecessor and is itself a neutral predecessor for most cultures. However, wireworm accumulates quite quickly under it.

Tomatoes are also sometimes grown in one place, but in this case they also require more careful care.

You can include in the crop rotation and strawberries (strawberries).

bradford

Fertilization

Based on the fact that all crops have a different relationship to the soil, it is necessary to take into account the moment of applying the main fertilizer in the crop rotation.

So, under cabbage (this is the most demanding in this respect culture), potatoes, cucumbers, it is advisable to apply manure, they are very demanding on nutrition. But tomatoes, carrots, onions, beets respond better to this fertilizer applied under their predecessor. Peas, greens and strawberries are managed with organic matter embedded in the soil under the predecessor of the predecessor.

In addition, the full norm of the main fertilizer is applied to the most demanding of the crops, while fertilizers are applied to the rest of the vegetables, taking into account the aftereffect of the main fertilizer. (For reference: in the first year, plants take out up to 30% nitrogen, 30% phosphorus and 50% potassium from manure, therefore, it is not advisable to apply manure every year).

Example. In the crop rotation cabbage - cucumbers - tomatoes - carrots, the most favorable moment for applying the full norm of manure is autumn before planting cabbage.

Combination of cultures

Relying on the fact that different vegetables are grown by us in different volumes, making up a crop rotation, it is advisable to place several crops at once on one plot. This allows not only to effectively plan the planting area, but also to improve the growing conditions of plants, since many of them have a beneficial effect on each other.

Vegetable crop compatibility (for joint and compacted crops)
Peas
good neighborhood	valid neighborhood	invalid neighborhood
carrots, cucumbers	strawberry, corn, parsley, radish, lettuce, beetroot, dill, spinach	legumes, cabbage, potatoes, onions, tomatoes, garlic
eggplant
good neighborhood	valid neighborhood	invalid neighborhood
beans, greens, leek, garlic	strawberries, cucumbers, parsley	-
Zucchini
good neighborhood	valid neighborhood	invalid neighborhood
greens, corn, beans	eggplant, strawberry, carrot, sunflower, garlic, spinach	potatoes, tomatoes, radishes
Cabbage
good neighborhood	valid neighborhood	invalid neighborhood
strawberries, carrots, lettuce, beans	potatoes, corn, leeks, cucumbers, radishes, beets, tomatoes, dill, garlic, spinach	peas, onions, parsley, garlic
Potato
good neighborhood	valid neighborhood	invalid neighborhood
beans, spinach	strawberries, cabbage, corn, onions, carrots, radishes, lettuce, dill, garlic, spinach	peas, cucumbers, tomatoes, beets, pumpkin
Corn
good neighborhood	valid neighborhood	invalid neighborhood
cucumbers, tomatoes, lettuce, beans	peas, strawberries, cabbage, potatoes, onions, carrots, radishes, pumpkin, dill, garlic, spinach	beet
Onion
good neighborhood	valid neighborhood	invalid neighborhood
carrots, tomatoes, beets	strawberries, potatoes, corn, radishes, cucumbers, lettuce, garlic, spinach	peas, cabbage, onions, dill, beans
Leek
good neighborhood	valid neighborhood	invalid neighborhood
strawberries, tomatoes	potatoes, cabbage, corn, carrots, cucumbers, radishes, lettuce, beets, dill, beans, garlic, spinach	peas, onion
perennial onion
good neighborhood	valid neighborhood	invalid neighborhood
-	strawberries, carrots, cucumbers, parsley, radishes, lettuce, tomatoes	beans, garlic
Carrot
good neighborhood	valid neighborhood	invalid neighborhood
peas, cabbage, onions, spinach	potatoes, corn, cucumbers, radishes, lettuce, tomatoes, garlic	beets, dill, beans
cucumbers
good neighborhood	valid neighborhood	invalid neighborhood
legumes, cabbage, corn, lettuce, beets, dill, beans	eggplant, strawberries, onions, carrots, sunflowers, garlic, spinach	potatoes, tomatoes, radishes
Squash
good neighborhood	valid neighborhood	invalid neighborhood
legumes, greens, corn	strawberry, carrot, sunflower, garlic	potatoes, tomatoes, radishes
Pepper
good neighborhood	valid neighborhood	invalid neighborhood
basil, carrot, onion	parsley	beans
Parsley
good neighborhood	valid neighborhood	invalid neighborhood
strawberries, tomatoes	eggplant, peas, leeks, perennial onions, carrots, cucumbers, peppers, radishes, lettuce, spinach	cabbage
Sunflower
good neighborhood	valid neighborhood	invalid neighborhood
-	cucumbers	potato
Radish
good neighborhood	valid neighborhood	invalid neighborhood
carrots, beans;	peas, strawberries, cabbage, potatoes, corn, onions, parsley, radishes, lettuce, beets, tomatoes, dill, garlic, spinach	onion, cucumber
lettuce
good neighborhood	valid neighborhood	invalid neighborhood
cabbage, corn, cucumbers	peas, strawberries, potatoes, onions, carrots, parsley, tomatoes, radishes, beets, dill, beans, garlic, spinach	-
Beet
good neighborhood	valid neighborhood	invalid neighborhood
onions, tomatoes, beans, spinach	peas, strawberries, cabbage, cucumbers, radishes, lettuce, dill, garlic	potatoes, corn, leeks, carrots
tomatoes
good neighborhood	valid neighborhood	invalid neighborhood
corn, carrots, parsley, radishes, beets, beans, spinach	strawberries, cabbage, onions, lettuce, garlic;	peas, potatoes, cucumbers, dill
Pumpkin
good neighborhood	valid neighborhood	invalid neighborhood
greens, beans	corn	potato
Dill
good neighborhood	valid neighborhood	invalid neighborhood
cabbage, cucumber	peas, strawberries, potatoes, corn, leeks, radishes, lettuce, beets, beans, garlic, spinach	onions, carrots, tomatoes
Beans
good neighborhood	valid neighborhood	invalid neighborhood
eggplant, strawberries, cabbage, corn, potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes, radishes, beets, spinach	lettuce, dill, spinach	peas, onions, carrots, garlic
Garlic
good neighborhood	valid neighborhood	invalid neighborhood
-	strawberries, leeks, carrots, cucumbers, radishes, lettuce, beets, tomatoes	peas, perennial onions, cabbage, beans
Spinach
good neighborhood	valid neighborhood	invalid neighborhood
strawberries, potatoes, carrots, beets, tomatoes, beans	peas, cabbage, onions, cucumbers, parsley, radish, lettuce, dill, garlic	beet
Garden strawberry
good neighborhood	valid neighborhood	invalid neighborhood
cabbage, carrots, parsley, beans, spinach	eggplant, peas, potatoes, corn, onions, cucumbers, radishes, lettuce, beets, tomatoes, dill, garlic	-

An example of such a crop rotation would be:

cabbage+cucumbers → tomatoes → carrots+onions → potatoes

When choosing crops according to the principle of combination, it is necessary to take into account the timing of their maturation. So, for example, radishes have time to grow by the time when melons can still be sown.

And, of course, in combined crops, it is necessary to find a place for flowers, because they not only decorate the beds, but also repel pests. It can be marigolds, nasturtium, calendula, mattiola.

nutritiousdelicacyness

siderates

And the last. To maintain soil fertility at the proper level, it is necessary to provide for the alternation of crops and the mandatory use of green manure in your scheme. They can be sown in their free time from vegetables, before winter, or be part of a crop rotation, occupying a separate bed. What could it be? Winter rye, vetch, leafy mustard, peas, lupins and their various combinations.

For example: zucchini → peppers → carrots → potatoes → green manure (legumes)

It is necessary to alternate garden crops on the site wisely, because it is not enough just to swap them, you also need to know the sequence and system of crop rotations.

When growing the same crop in one place for several years in a row, the soil is depleted, pathogens accumulate in it, and pests, out of habit, “gather” to their favorite vegetables. You can correct the situation if you plant plants in other beds in the new season. However, not everything is as simple as it might seem at first glance.

What is crop rotation and why follow it?

talking plain language, crop rotation is the alternation of garden crops on the site. Scientists identify 3 main reasons why it should be observed:

1. the soil is less clogged with weeds, less pathogens and pests settle in it;
2. during crop rotation, the most optimal structure of the upper soil layer is maintained, in which garden crops grow;
3. land during crop rotation is not depleted, but, on the contrary, is replenished necessary elements nutrition.

If different crops are planted in the same place every year, the soil will be healed, and its nutrients will be spent more rationally. The thing is that some plants consume useful elements from the top layer of soil, while others - from the bottom. In addition, these substances are consumed in different quantities.

How to rotate plants?

In order to properly alternate plantings and draw up a rational crop rotation scheme, it is important to know which family a particular plant belongs to. Because representatives of the same family, as a rule, suffer from the same diseases and are attacked by the same pests. Thus, it is impossible, for example, to sow dill instead of carrots. These crops belong to the same family - Celery.

Interestingly, crop rotation should be observed not only when growing, as many mistakenly believe. If you think flowers and medicinal plants cannot be "relatives" to vegetables, then you are mistaken. How else can they! For example, tulips and slime onions are almost brothers. So, if you have broken a bed in place of a flower bed, this does not mean at all that vegetables will grow well on it. It is important to choose the right culture-"followers".

Especially for you, we have compiled a table of ownership different cultures to families.

Family	culture
Aster (composite)	Artichoke, aster, dahlia, calendula, kosmeya, daisy, oat root, dandelion, tansy, sunflower, rudbeckia, lettuce, lettuce chicory, scorzonera, yarrow, chrysanthemum, zinnia, string, tarragon, echinacea
Legumes	Beans, vetch, peas, lupins, soybeans, beans, lentils
Buckwheat	Buckwheat, rhubarb, sorrel
Cabbage (cruciferous)	Rutabaga, daikon, cabbage (white, brussels, chinese, kohlrabi, red, beijing, savoy, cauliflower), katran, watercress, levkoy, leaf mustard, lobo, radish, radish, turnip, horseradish
Onion (lily)	Begonias, onions (batun, fragrant, multi-tiered, leek, onion, rocambole, slime, shallot, chives), lilies, tulips, wild garlic, garlic
Goosebumps	Ornamental quinoa, chard, beetroot, spinach.
Nightshade	Eggplant, belladonna, potato, nightshade, pepper, petunia, tobacco, tomato, physalis.
Celery (umbrella)	Anise, chervil, coriander (cilantro), carrots, parsnips, parsley, celery, cumin, dill, fennel.
Pumpkin	Watermelon, mad cucumber, melon, zucchini, kruknek, lagenaria, luffa, melotria, momordica, cucumber, squash, stepping stone, tladianta, cyclantera, chayote, echinocystis.
Lamiaceae (labial)	Basil, hyssop, marjoram, lemon balm, peppermint, savory.

Vegetable crop compatibility

If you want to place in one garden maximum amount different cultures, you also need to consider their compatibility with other plants. Some "capricious" vegetables do not get along well with their neighbors, while tolerant crops, on the contrary, have a positive effect on "roommates". So, carrots and onion- an example of ideal coexistence in the garden. Most dangerous pests these crops are carrot and onion flies. But the carrot fly does not tolerate the smell of onions, and the onion fly does not tolerate the smell of carrots. Therefore, plants from such a tandem perfectly protect each other from insect attacks.

The nutrient requirements of plants

Determining whether plants belong to the same family is only half the battle. Another important factor, which should be taken into account in crop rotation - the need of plants for nutrients.

When selecting crops for subsequent planting, you should be aware that it is impossible to plant the same bed for several years in a row with crops with high need in micronutrients.

• cultures with high need in nutrients: cabbage, potatoes, rhubarb, celery, asparagus, pumpkin, spinach.
• Cultures from average need in nutrients: eggplant, curly beans, melon, kohlrabi, leek, cucumber, radish, beetroot, tomato, horseradish, spinach.
• Plants with little need in nutrients: peas, bush beans, onions, herbs, radishes, lettuce.

The correct crop rotation looks like this: in the first year, the most "gluttonous" crop is grown in the garden, in the subsequent - plants from the second and third groups, in the fourth year they fertilize and again plant a crop with a high nutrient requirement.

Thus, it turns out that each plant should return to its original place no earlier than after 4 years. To do this, it is best to divide the site into small beds, and every year "shift" crops to a neighboring place.

Good forerunners of vegetable crops

Plants feed on those substances that were not taken from the soil by previous crops. When planning planting, keep in mind what to plant in the garden after.

culture	Predecessor
Legumes	All types of cabbage, potatoes, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, onion, garlic, eggplant, pepper
Cabbage, beets	Cucumber, potato, pepper, carrot, bean, pumpkin, eggplant
Potato	Cabbage, cucumber, pumpkin, onion, garlic, carrot
Onion garlic	Cabbage, potatoes, legumes, greens, radishes
Carrot	Cucumber, potato, cabbage, tomato, legumes
Cucumber, pumpkin, zucchini	Cabbage, beans, onion, garlic, corn
Pepper, eggplant	Cabbage, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, onion, garlic, legumes, carrots
Tomato	Cucumber, carrot, cabbage, onion, beetroot

Green manure for soil improvement

To increase soil fertility, do not leave the beds empty. At the time of the "shift change", sow the area with green manure: white mustard, phacelia, rapeseed, legumes. You can also make compost from these crops for the plants you plan to plant next season.

How can you rotate plants in a small area?

Crop rotation is an agricultural concept. However, this does not mean at all that it cannot be carried out in the conditions of a single garden. How else can you! That's just traditional suburban areas are not very suitable for them to be able to deploy vigorous activity. The garden is assigned to them, at best, a fourth part. In such conditions, moving crops from place to place can be problematic. And yet it is possible.

It is worth starting with a site plan and include both large and small objects in it. It is important to immediately indicate the location relative to the cardinal points in order to assess the degree of illumination of certain parts of the backyard territory. Buildings, tall trees and shrubs can also affect the illumination.

The territory under the beds on this plan should be divided into 4 zones and every year "move" plants from a certain group around them in a circle. That is, in the place where crops from the first group grew last year, representatives of the second group should be planted this year, and so on. Thus, the plants will return to the previous beds every 4 years.

And here are the groups of plants for a four-year crop rotation:

1 group- zucchini, cabbage, cucumbers, pumpkin, squash;

2 group- onions, radishes, tomatoes, herbs, garlic;

3 group- rutabagas, carrots, radishes, beets, parsnips, root parsley;

4 group- potato.

In the next season, all these crops should be in the next garden.

At first glance, it seems that crop rotation is a very complicated procedure. But over time, you can easily learn to understand all the intricacies, the main thing is to start. In addition, a competent crop rotation, in which vegetables, flowers and herbs on personal plot are successful neighbors, allows you to combine utility and beauty. What else does a real gardener need?

Crop rotation of vegetable crops is a necessary alternation of grown plants in your beds. Crop rotation in the garden should ideally be annual and continuous. This means that nothing should grow in the same place for two or more years in a row! This, of course, is ideal, and not every summer resident is able to realize such a utopian picture. However, "Gardener and Gardener" will try to help you in this difficult matter.

We have prepared unconditionally useful diagrams and tables for you, which you, as usual, can download from the link at the end of the article. For now, let's get to the theory.

Crop rotation of vegetable crops: a table for busy gardeners

In general, a crop rotation device is not a fast occupation and requires a certain amount of time. This is due to the fact that when alternating crops, quite a lot of factors must be taken into account: the need for a plant in nutrition, belonging to a biological family, contamination of the soil by pests, etc. For those who do not have enough time for long calculations and construction of schemes, we offer a quick and easy solution.

"Crop rotation table: successors and predecessors of vegetables when planting" will help you navigate the choice of a plant for a particular bed, without delving into the details. The only thing to remember when using it is that the culture can return to its original place after at least 3 to 4 years.

Crop rotation table: successors and predecessors of vegetables when planting

As you can see from this crop rotation summary table, there are the best vegetable crop predecessors, acceptable and bad:

Best tomato precursors- color and early cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins, greens, carrots and green manure. It is permissible to plant tomatoes after onions, garlic, herbs, beets, cabbage of late and medium varieties. After other crops, planting tomatoes in the garden is no longer worth it.

wonderful cabbage precursors- cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin and legumes. And here comes the division. For late and medium varieties, early potatoes and carrots are good, and for early and cauliflower it is better to sow after green manure and onions with garlic.

Good ones predecessors of onions and garlic(which you do not grow for greens) - cauliflower and early cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins, early potatoes, peas, beans, beans and green manure.

Best predecessors of cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin etc. - onions, garlic, legumes, corn, early and cauliflower.

Good ones pea precursors- any cabbage, early potatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins and squash.

Excellent carrot precursors- cabbage, potatoes, herbs and spices, zucchini and green manure.

Best precursors of pepper and eggplant- cucumbers, onions, carrots, green manure, etc.

Good ones beet predecessors- spices and herbs, potatoes, cucumbers, etc.

wonderful potato predecessors- zucchini, garlic, legumes, green manure, etc.

It seems that you managed to figure out how the table works without much difficulty. So, the “hurry-ups” leave us, and we move on.

Crop rotation of vegetables in the beds: a necessity or a whim

For those summer residents who are not limited in time, the "Gardener and Gardener" offers to "dig deeper." To begin with, let's look at the objective reasons that speak of the undoubted practical benefits and the need for crop rotation in the country.

Causes of soil fatigue:

1. Accumulation of pests and pathogens.
If a for a long time plant in the same place, for example, potatoes, then the number of wireworms, Colorado potato beetles and late blight pathogens will inevitably increase in this area. The same is true for other cultures. Growing the same vegetables all the time on the same beds, you run the risk of getting on one dominance of onion flies, on the other cabbage keel, on the third carrot fleas, etc. What can we say about root and leaf nematodes, rot and other "minor" troubles.

2. Accumulation of toxins.
Another reason that speaks of the need for vegetable crop rotation is the inevitable toxic root secretions - colins. Many vegetables are very sensitive to their own toxins. If you continue to plant them in one place, then the crops will get worse and worse every year, even despite the absence of pests and diseases. So, for example, spinach and beets are most susceptible to their root secretions. Parsley, radish, radish, celery, carrots and pumpkin crops react a little easier to them. Corn, leeks and legumes are the least affected by colin. A lot of toxins remain in tomato, cucumber, carrot and cabbage beds.

3. Nutritional needs.
The supply of nutrients on the site is not unlimited. Each plant has its own nutrient requirements. Some cultures are less demanding, while others are more. Therefore, it is very important to know "who is who" in order to track the state of a particular bed. So if related plants are planted in the same place, then in a few years they will “suck out” everything necessary for growth from it, depleting the supply of some elements. As a result, productivity will drop.

All these factors together give the so-called soil fatigue. You can and should fight this. The most effective remedy is this very crop rotation of vegetables in your country house.

Crop rotation in the garden: the fight against soil depletion

In order for the horrors described above not to become a reality in your favorite dacha or plot, it is enough to remember and adhere to three simple rules crop rotation.

1. botany rule.
You should never plant not just the same plant one after another, but even related crops belonging to the same species! This is the first, most important and important.
Judge for yourself:
- Diseases and pests are most often the same. Therefore, the first reason will not be eliminated.
They also have similar toxins. Colins of one plant are processed only by cultures of another botanical species. So the second reason will remain in place.
- Nutrition and the need for trace elements in crops of the same family are also almost identical. It turns out that the third reason is not going anywhere.
Conclusion: crop rotation of vegetables within the same botanical family is useless!

2. Time rule.
The longer the culture does not return, the better!
The minimum period after which you can return the plant to its original place is 3 years. For carrots, parsley, beets, cucumbers, it is better to increase it to 4-5 years. Cabbage, when the keel appears, can be returned only after 6-7 years. If there is an opportunity (there is enough space, many crops are grown), then feel free to increase these numbers, it will only get better.
Otherwise, the same three causes of soil fatigue will not be eliminated again.

3. fertility rule.
When determining the rotation order of crops in a crop rotation, remember about nutrition and about plants that help enrich the soil with the right elements.
All crops use nutrients to grow, some more, some less. Plants that are very demanding on nutrition should not be planted one after another.
Some cultures improve fertile layer by the very fact of its growth in this place. These include almost all legumes. They not only loosen the soil, but also fill it with mineral elements. No wonder many vegetables love them as predecessors. By the way, similar qualities Plants of other species also have root system deep, powerful and developed.
Others contain the necessary substances in their roots and leaves. These plants need to be known and, if possible, laid in compost. Although this is a separate topic, we will still give a few examples.

In accordance with this rule, we advise you, when drawing up the order of alternation of crops in a crop rotation, pay attention not only to the botanical appearance and timing, but also to the exactingness of nutrition and the improvement of fertility. In this way:
- after each plant demanding nutrition, on next year it is worth planting legumes or seriously fertilizing the garden,
- after a less demanding vegetable, you can plant a more demanding one, moderately fertilizing the soil.

To make it easier to navigate when alternating crops in a crop rotation, "Gardener and Gardener" has prepared a special memo for you.

Memo: "What to consider when alternating vegetable crops in a crop rotation"

The scheme of crop rotation of vegetables in the country

Giving some options for crop rotation schemes is a waste of time. The summer cottage of each gardener is unique, which means that some standard crop rotation plans can suit few people. And it's not even about the size of the plot or the number of beds. It's just that the vegetable crops that are cultivated are different for everyone. Someone is planting a lot of cabbage different types, and someone literally 5-6 plants. Someone plants potatoes for 5 acres, while someone needs 5 square meters. meters. Someone plants many crops in a greenhouse, while someone has a greenhouse only for tomatoes and cucumbers. Therefore, it is more expedient for each summer resident to independently plan crop rotation and draw up individual schemes for himself.

The basic principles that should be followed are outlined above. Now let's move away from the ideal and plunge into reality. Further "Gardener and Gardener" offers you a list practical advice, according to the crop rotation device.

Crop rotation for suburban area: practical advice

1. Human memory is not unlimited. To remember what kind of vegetable sat on this bed five years ago is an impossible task for most summer residents. Therefore, the first advice is not to be lazy and draw up a plan of your site with all the beds in a notebook. On this plan every year you will mark the planted crops. Those who have a lot of free time can immediately mark plants that are likely to be planted a year, two or three years in advance. The rest, to compose complete map crop rotation will take 5-6 years (according to the average time of return of the crop).

2. In the process of sowing, decide and write down in your notebook how much space which crop occupies for you (one third of the beds, a quarter, half, a whole, etc.). This is necessary so that in the next years it will be possible to “fold” suitable plantings, like pieces of a mosaic. After all, it is not necessary to sow the entire garden with any one crop. If you can plant cabbage and greens after onions, do so - half a bed of one, half a bed of the second. Just do not forget to make sure that the neighboring plants are compatible.

3. If you can’t change the place of a culture (well, it happens), don’t despair. Just add a "neighbor" from another family to it on the bed (do not forget to check the compatibility table). So self-poisoning plants (beets, spinach, carrots, etc.), which we talked about in the second reason (Accumulation of toxins), can grow in one place quite calmly and without loss in yield up to 3 years. After all, neighbors of a different species are well processed and absorb their destructive toxins. A mixed fit works best when it is truly mixed. That is, not half a bed of beets and half a bed of carrots, but a row of one, a row of another. Or better yet, fill the aisles with the same beans.

Here, perhaps, is all the information that you need to organize a correct and efficient crop rotation in the country. The table will help you quickly determine the crop to be sown. Reminder - plan everything in advance. Practical advice - to solve the problems that arise in the process. Have a good harvest!

Material taken from the site:

My dear readers, spring has come, which means that very soon the hot time of garden work will come.

So many things need to be sown, planted, and so that each plant is cozy and comfortable.

But how to do it? Yes, it’s very simple, you just need to plan a crop rotation in the garden.

She said: “Very simple”, but now I’m sitting and thinking: “Is it simple?”, So many nuances need to be taken into account: the family of plants, predecessors - what grew before, in this place, followers - a vegetable that will now live here.

Have you never done this? Did, but approximately, by eye? Well, my dear friends, I hasten to assure you that you have deprived yourself good harvest by at least 30%.

Crop rotation in the garden: why is it important

Crop rotation of vegetables: control of diseases and pests

“And what is all this for?”, some of the readers will flash through their heads. It is necessary, necessary, even very necessary, believe me. Just imagine, your family member fell ill, God forbid, of course, I wish everyone good health, that's me so for shining example. You brought him some seagulls to drink, let him be treated and recover. Will you make yourself some tea in his mug later? I think so, no. You don't want to get infected.

And now let's see what is happening in your garden, last year you planted a potato on a certain piece, and take and attach late blight to it, you sent it out this way and that. Someone succeeded, someone didn’t, now it’s not so important, but the important thing is that pathogenic bacteria have remained in the earth. And you, without thinking about it, in the new year decide to plant or eggplants on this site.

As a result, your healthy, full of strength plant falls, with your own help, under the harmful influence of phytophthora bacteria. I can already see how they rub their hands: “Oh, a new victim. Let's have some fun guys." What is wrong here. And in the fact that it is impossible to plant plants of the same family in the same place, in no case. One family - one disease and one pest.

Crop rotation of vegetables: protecting the soil from depletion

Have you ever thought about the fact that each plant eats differently, in the sense that each vegetable has its own favorite dishes. For example, beets, carrots and other root crops prefer potassium, tomatoes - phosphorus, cabbage - nitrogen. Of course, to improve their livelihoods, the menu should be diversified, but there should be more favorite products, within reasonable aisles, of course.

However, the vegetables themselves are able to find their favorite food in the soil. Some, such as beets, carrots and dill, will get it from the depths, by the way, I read somewhere that its main root penetrates the soil up to 2 m in search of food and water. But such a comrade as a cucumber will limit itself to searching on the upper layers of the soil.

So imagine if the same vegetable, from year to year, grows in the same place. Carrots will eat all the nutrients at a depth, and cucumbers will devastate the upper layers. As a result, we will get depletion of the soil in the garden and a gradual but stable decrease in yield.

Crop rotation of vegetables: protecting plants from colines

If we have already agreed that plants eat, and we also know that they breathe, then it is quite possible to assume that plants, like all living beings, go to the toilet, this process is more scientific and, probably, more correct. sounds like this - toxic root secretions - in a word - colins.

And many plants react very poorly to their own colines, which will certainly lead them to an oppressed state even in the absence of diseases and pests.

Summing up all of the above, I responsibly declare that without observing crop rotation in the garden, you risk getting soil fatigue. Do you need it?

By the way, if, in addition to observing the crop rotation, you will be green manure on the vacant plots of land, then your soil will not be fatigued. Well, shall we do a crop rotation? Then let's start with planning a site for sowing and planting vegetables.

Scheme of placement of crops and planting vegetables

This process is completely individual and it all depends on whether you have a separate plot of land for the garden or planting vegetables scattered throughout the territory, merging into a single composition with flowers, trees and bushes.

Ideally, of course, this should be a separate plot of land with good lighting, but again, I repeat, it all depends on the land resource you have, as well as on the degree of seething of your design fantasy. After all, vegetables can become not only decoration dining table, but also part landscape design any area.

Crop rotation of vegetables, a table for which can be compiled manually in a notebook in a cage, or in Word program has a wide variety of options.

I will briefly describe some of them, as they are common practice. I will tell you in more detail about how I draw up such a scheme for my garden in Word. In any case, I will proceed from the fact that you have allocated a separate piece of land for a garden. So let's go.

You can divide your area for sowing and planting vegetables into 3 or 4 parts. Plant or sow plants on each of them, taking into account their appetite.

In one area we plant cabbage and all plants from the pumpkin family (cucumber, zucchini, squash, pumpkin). The second one is potatoes. On the third - all root crops. And finally, on the fourth - green crops, the onion family, the nightshade family, in addition to potatoes, of course, and radishes. And then, every year we move vegetables from one area to another.

Well, now about how I draw up a scheme for crop rotation of vegetables. To begin with, I will say that I have allocated about 6 acres for planting and sowing vegetables. And all these acres are divided into strips, 65 cm wide and 10 m long.

One such strip plays the role of 2 beds, where my vegetables actually bask in the sun, and nearby, two strips are the paths we walk along. All strips are processed with a cultivator, which has a distance between the disks of 65 cm. Now you understand why the width is exactly that.

Crop rotation in the garden - a table in the Word program

And now let's go to Word, I have it in 2007. At the top of the toolbar, select "Page Layout", then "Orientation" and switch the page from portrait to landscape.

The next step, click on the button "Insert" > "Table" > "Insert table". A window will open where you will need to specify the number of columns and rows. The columns are the years you will be running the chart. Rows - this is the number of beds in which you were able to break your garden.

Click "OK" and after that, the table designer opens on the toolbar, where, in fact, you can choose any type of two-color table, one strip of which will correspond to your garden bed, and the second to the path.

Well, what did you do? Happened? Now all that's left to do is fill it in, are you ready?

Crop rotation of vegetables, table

But, before you start filling out, carefully study the following table. It will help you properly plant and sow your vegetables, while theoretically, on paper, but then, in practice, you will not have any problems.

Well? I hope this plate will help you to distribute the crop rotation in the garden. In addition to this, I would like to add a few very important rules, which will allow you to avoid a number of problems in the summer and in the coming years.

Return the plants to their original place no earlier than after 3-4 years. By at least, so recommend all agronomists, and correctly recommend, I support them 100%.

However, practice shows that due to a small piece of land and a wide variety of cultivated plants, it is very, very difficult to do this. In any case, this rule does not work perfectly for me. But still I try.

Cabbage, beets, carrots and potatoes are very voracious guys, they take a large amount of nutrients out of the soil. Therefore, be sure to take this into account when fertilizing on next year.

When filling out the table for crop rotation of vegetables, please consider which plants you will grow in the neighborhood. Why is this important, you ask. I answer.

You planted potatoes nearby, on one bed, and on the other you grow strawberries. Crawl on the potatoes, insatiable enemies, and let's gnaw her poor from all sides. Any gardener knows what to do, give them water, reptiles, so that they get drunk to satiety. And this is where the problem awaits us, the strawberry is already ripe, you need to collect it every other day. How to solve it? You can solve it with the help of oilcloth, but this is a troublesome business, I tell you.

Or here are tomatoes and cucumbers side by side. In a salad, this is a good neighborhood, but in a garden, not so much. It's time to sprinkle the tomatoes, and nearby the cucumbers are already asking for the table - again to carry oilcloth, well, no, it's better to take this nuance into account immediately, when planting, and save yourself from a headache, and the body from excess poison.

If, nevertheless, somewhere your garden falls under the shade, do not rush to get upset. Plant plants there that are not at all capricious and will gladly give a harvest with a small amount of sun. Here they are our saviors: all possible salads, peas, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, radish, beans, chard (leaf beet).

Crop rotation of vegetables, my table

And in conclusion, my dears, I suggest you study my crop rotation scheme. I will say right away that it is not perfect, and if you look at previous years, then there are no mistakes. But we all learn, grow, and the crops of our vegetables grow with us. You can click on the picture, and enlarge it in size, view it in a form convenient for you.

If you notice, then in my table I highlighted the first two beds that fall under my shade in the afternoon, so there I try only shade-tolerant plants.

In addition, I want to say to those who believe that the land is not being used rationally. You are mistaken, my good ones, the beds are working, the paths are resting. After some time, I will swap them - the paths will become beds, rested, full of strength, and the beds will go on a well-deserved rest, for several years.

Although, for planting potatoes, I, nevertheless, capture the paths too. It seems to me that potatoes planted in the usual way grow better than in the beds, but vegetables are simply delighted when they do not trample on the place where they grow.

Well, my dear friends, now you know what crop rotation is in the garden, you know how to make tables for planning it. It only remains for me to wish you good luck, healthy plants and great harvests.

I wish everyone happiness, Natalya Murga

Crop rotation is an agronomic term that refers to a regular, scientifically based annual change or alternation of crops in one or more fields included in the cycle of cultivation of these plants.

seed planning

Vegetable crop rotation contributes to the accumulation of nutrients in the soil, heals it from pathogens and wintering stages of pests. Bundling and co-cultivation create opportunities for higher yields. A crop rotation table should be in every amateur vegetable grower. It is advisable to remember the principles of fruit change according to various criteria:

• According to the type of economically valuable part of the crop in direct and reverse order ROOT CROPS are replaced by FRUIT, then LEAF VEGETABLES - FLOWERS;
• On the basis of belonging to the biological family: plants from the pumpkin, legume, haze and cabbage families are replaced by nightshade.

What to plant after

In addition to a clear understanding of the sequence, it is important to know a number of rules related to soil fertility and a favorable phytosanitary regime:

• The same crop should not be cultivated in one place for more than one year. Even if the crops are different, but belong to the same botanical family, they should not follow each other, since they are damaged by the same pests and react in the same way to soil toxins;
• It is useful to leave the soil under “fallow”, without planting anything for 1-2 years, during the season the site is weeded and loosened, watered if necessary;
• Plants that were grown on the site last year leave behind volumes of root residues, which then rot and create a supply of essential macro- and microelements in the soil. In addition, bushes with a deep-penetrating root system saturate the soil with oxygen and make it moisture-permeable;
• The tops of vegetable crops and flowers significantly enrich the soil with organic matter, and the site looks clean and tidy;
• Plants that release substances that repel insect pests can significantly reduce the pesticide load on the soil and the environment;
• The annual cultivation of highly demanding plants to the level of mineral nutrition significantly depletes the soil.

Watch the video! What can be planted after - tips for gardeners

Advice! Use the tops of vegetable and flower crops to make compost and create warm beds!

If you follow the above rules, the accumulation of nutrients and the improvement of the soil will occur in a systematic and targeted manner. Gardeners-gardeners need to keep a diary, where to record all the manipulations in the garden and in the garden.

Use of mixed landings

A number of studies and practical experience vegetable growers testifies to the positive effect of mixed plantings of vegetables. The most suitable landing schemes include:

• onions + carrots;
• radish + carrot;
• onion + cabbage;
• beets + cabbage.

Seeds are sown in alternating rows, while they help each other to sprout and protect against possible pests. When planning joint plantings of vegetables, it is important to take into account their relationship to light.

There are no shade-loving crops among vegetables. In the complete absence of direct sunlight, they cease to develop and give a crop of poor quality.

Table 1 - The ratio of vegetable crops to the level of illumination

Good forerunners of vegetable crops

All plantings are left behind in the soil, except for a set of mineral and organic matter, beneficial or toxic substances, root residues. If you correctly select the sequence of plants, actively use compost, then you can effectively manage soil fertility. The main vegetable crops and good predecessors for them are shown in Table 2.

Table 2 - Main vegetable crops and good predecessors for them

culture	Predecessor
Beans, beans, peas	White cabbage, Chinese cabbage, broccoli, potatoes, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, onion, garlic, pepper, eggplant
Cabbage, beets	Cucumber, potato, pepper, carrot, bean, pumpkin, eggplant, tomato
Potato	Cabbage, cucumber, pumpkin, onion, garlic, carrot
Onion garlic	Cabbage, potatoes, legumes, greens, radishes
Carrot	Cucumber, potato, cabbage, tomato, legumes
Cucumber, pumpkin, zucchini	Cabbage, beans, onion, garlic, corn
Pepper, eggplant	Cabbage, cucumber, zucchini, pumpkin, onion, garlic, legumes, carrots
Tomato	Cucumber, carrot, cabbage, onion, beetroot

All plants have certain requirements for soil fertility and endure fixed amounts of nutrients. Table 3 presents the categories of vegetable and green crops according to the level of removal of nutrients from the soil.

The level of nutrient removal from the soil means that for the growth of subsequent plantations, nutrients must be applied back to the soil in an amount greater than that which was carried out by the previous crop in order to accumulate fertility.

Healthy! Leave the soil under clean fallow for 1-2 years every 5-6 years of use.

The scheme of alternation of plants in the suburban area

Let's figure out how to properly draw up a vegetable crop rotation scheme for a summer residence. The primary task is to draw up a map-plan of the site indicating buildings, household objects, trees, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe beds and the ratio of the cardinal points. This will allow you to see the most illuminated and shaded areas. The easiest way to make a crop rotation is to divide the entire area under the beds into 4 sectors and move the entire set of suburban vegetable crops along them.

Important! In the garden, where crops from the first group grew last year, representatives of the second group should be planted this year, etc.

Thus, the dacha crop rotation includes 4 groups vegetable plants:

• Cucumber, cabbage, zucchini, pumpkin, squash;
• Tomato, onion, radish, garlic, green crops;
• Carrots, beets, radishes, root parsley;
• Potato.

This combination of vegetables takes into account the ratio of the volume of needs in each type. The next year, the totality of cultures moves to the neighboring sector. The proposed scheme is very convenient. Over time, summer residents develop the habit of correctly arranging crops and there is no need to keep records.

Attention! For soil under greenhouses and temporary shelters, the requirement to observe crop rotation also remains.

Good and Bad Neighborhood

Good crop compatibility for co-planting

Many years of experience in the cultivation of garden crops allows us to compile a list of plants that favorably affect each other:

Watch the video! Vegetables neighbors in the beds

Poor crop compatibility for co-planting

The peculiarity of growing plants in summer cottages is that it is necessary to fit a wide range of crops, both tree and shrub and vegetable, in a relatively small area. The fact is that many fruit and nut trees can have bad influence on plants that are in close proximity to them. Here are examples of negative neighborhoods:

• Walnut inhibits any plants that come into contact with the substance that it releases - juglone;
• Fennel oppresses all crops in close proximity;
• Legumes and wormwood do not get along well;
• Potatoes, cucumbers, tomatoes and strawberries grow worse if they are in the zone of influence of each other's roots, also applies to all representatives of the Solanaceae family;
• Cabbage and strawberries are two crops that attract to the site great amount pests, which negatively affects the growth of each crop individually.

Thus, the time spent on the design of crop rotations in the country is not wasted. A competent approach and thoughtful decisions will allow you to correctly design a country crop rotation, save on fertilizers, plant protection products and get a significant harvest of vegetables.

Watch the video! Crop rotation of vegetable crops