Pepper is a favorite vegetable crop of Russians, because the fruits of the plant contain a large number of vitamins and microelements
Before planting your favorite vegetable crop, you need to choose the fruitful variety you like. To the delight of summer residents, breeders have received many varieties that not only give an excellent harvest, but are also resistant to various diseases. It is worth choosing a variety depending on the area where the sowing will be done. Taste characteristics are another aspect that is important to consider before purchasing seeds.
After purchase, pepper seeds are prepared for planting. For this, the following activities are carried out, namely:
- Checking seeds for germination. Culling will help to get rid of low-quality seed in a timely manner. For this purpose, the seeds are placed in salt water for 15-20 minutes. For 1 liter of water room temperature 1 tablespoon of salt is needed. Heavy seeds will sink to the bottom of the container, and unusable seeds will float.
- Disinfection. Quite often, already disinfected seeds are sold in stores. However, it's better not to risk it. Soaking the seed in a pink solution of potassium permanganate for 30-60 minutes allows you to get rid of dangerous plant diseases. Now it is not so easy to buy potassium permanganate crystals in a pharmacy. But don't worry. Now summer residents are disinfecting with Fitosporin according to the instructions. It is safe for humans, but destroys almost all viruses, fungi and bacteria.
- Soaking pepper seeds causes the sprouts to swell and sprout. Before planting, they should be placed in damp gauze for several days. To accelerate the germination of seeds, it is important to place them in heat. When sprouts appear, you can start planting peppers.
Growing pepper seedlings at home without picking and
Transplanting seedlings is stressful for the plant, and pepper reacts extremely negatively to the procedure. Picking seedlings injures tender roots, which slows down the growth of the plant and it lags behind in development for several weeks. Experienced summer residents do not carry out picks and as a result receive a bountiful harvest of vegetables. To grow pepper seedlings at home without picking, follow the following step-by-step instructions:
Now it remains only as necessary to irrigate the pepper seedlings from the spray gun and wait for the shoots. After about 10 days, the first shoots will appear, after which the film is gradually removed
How to grow pepper seedlings at home, video:
Interested in how to grow pepper seedlings at home? Growing this crop without picking is a great way to get strong plants that will give a generous harvest of tasty, aromatic, juicy peppers. stick simple tips summer residents, observe the terms of planting seeds and seedlings. A rich harvest will provide the whole family with pepper for the whole year.
The best pepper varieties for 2018 with reviews
Are you looking for seeds to plant? explore the best varieties pepper for 2018, reviewsand cultural characteristics? And you are doing it right! After all, you need to try something special, please yourself and loved ones with delicious, juicy vegetables. In the article you can get acquainted with the top varieties of peppers, real reviews, video and their benefits.
The best varieties of pepper for 2018: reviews of gardeners
According to numerous reviews of gardeners in the ranking of the best varieties of pepper for 2018, Bogatyr, Cow's Ear, Big Mama, California Miracle and Hercules were included. It is definitely worth learning more about how summer residents speak of them.
Pepper variety Bogatyr
Bogatyr is the best high-yielding crop variety with large fruits, delicate and peppery aroma. The shape of the vegetable is prism-shaped, and its walls are quite thick, and are more than 5 mm. The weight of one fruit is 170 g.
In the photo, pepper varieties Cow's ear
Cow's ear pepper- a mid-season type of culture, the height of the bush of which is 70 cm. It is best to tie it up so that the plant is not damaged under the weight of large fruits. Their shape is distinguished from others by an elongated cone. During the ripening period, the color of the crop turns red, although the unripe vegetables were originally green.
Pepper Variety Big Mama
Big Mama- this is, perhaps, a universal variety that is suitable for growing in greenhouse complexes and in open ground. It belongs to the category of early ripening, and the weight of one fruit is 100 g. The advantages of the species are disease resistance, plentiful yields, an unusual cylindrical shape, and a bright lilac shade of the vegetable.
Pepper California Miracle
Pepper California Miracle matures almost 3 months after planting. The weight of one fruit sometimes reaches 240 g, which cannot but please the summer resident. The height of the bush itself is 75 cm. It is the best variety of pepper, which belongs to the medium-early category of agricultural crops.
Sweet pepper variety Hercules
Grade Hercules distinguished by its spreading bushes of small height. The shape of the vegetable resembles a cube, and its mass often reaches even 300 g. It is thanks to this that the vegetable got its name. It is often used for canning, as well as consumed fresh, added to salads.
The best varieties of pepper for open ground in the middle lane
Gift of Moldova, Arsenal, Postrel, Krepysh, Leader of the Redskins, Bagheera, Silver Prince - these are the best varieties of pepper for middle lane. Summer residents are convinced of this, who actively share reviews, recommend buying the seeds of these plants and planting them in the garden.
Of course, they take into account a number of aspects before they buy seed. Here are just some of the factors that influence your choice:
- Climate.
- The timing of the ripening of vegetables.
- Productivity.
- Taste characteristics.
- Disease resistance.
These are just the main points that affect the decision of the summer resident. But the above varieties of pepper are great for planting in open ground, reviews of gardeners only convince of this. So why not try to plant at least one of them this year?!
Kakadu pepper: variety description, photo
Peppers with giant fruits and rich taste- this is how the culture is characterized by those who planted it on their site. Its bushes are quite tall, and the height reaches about 150 cm. Vegetables have an elongated and cylindrical shape. The length of one pepper is approximately 30 cm. The weight of the fruit is about 500 grams, and this is no exaggeration.
It is consumed raw, used in canning, marinated. Gardeners manage to remove about 3 kg of vegetables from one bush. At maturity, they have a bright red hue. They have a very thick and fleshy wall. According to reviews, Kakadu pepper is a very heat-loving variety, and pleases with high yields in the warm regions of the country. In addition, the culture is early, the first fruits appear 110 days after planting.
Despite the huge variety of types of pepper, some of them are only suitable for planting in open ground. Plant growing experts say that the best varieties of peppers for polycarbonate greenhouses are Cardinal, Winnie the Pooh, Tenderness and Atlant. Consider in more detail their description, photo.
Pepper variety Cardinal
Pepper variety Cardinal is an early hybrid that is perfect for growing in a polycarbonate greenhouse. This plant is considered tall, since its length is approximately 1 m. The mass of one vegetable is about 180 g. The juicy purple color of the fruit sets it apart from other vegetables. To taste, they are quite juicy and fleshy, which is why gardeners fell in love with them.
Pepper Variety Winnie the Pooh
Winnie the Pooh- the type of pepper, which belongs to the category of fruit, is different highest growth, and the very arrangement of the fruit is very reminiscent of a bouquet. The shape of the peppers is shortened cones. The weight of the vegetable is 170 g. The most delicate skin, the most delicious pulp, the unique aroma are the undeniable advantages of Winnie the Pooh.
Pepper variety Tenderness
Tenderness- a popular mid-early variety for greenhouse complexes. Its ripening period is 115 days, and the height of the bush is 80 cm. As for yield indicators, an average of about 2 kg of fruit can be obtained from a bush. The color of peppers immediately during their ripening is rich red.
Pepper variety Atlant
Atlant- the optimal variety of pepper for a small polycarbonate greenhouse. The speed of ripening vegetables is 110 days, and the height is 75 cm. Planting them, the gardener will certainly get large and fragrant red or green peppers. The taste of the fruit is considered classic.
Tips from experienced gardeners will help you learn about the best varieties of peppers for polycarbonate greenhouses
Of course, these are far from all types of peppers that are suitable for polycarbonate greenhouses. Such varieties are also in great demand: Health, Hercules, Kakadu, Claudio, Latinos and others.
How to choose the best variety of peppers?
If you are looking for the best varieties of peppers for planting in the open field or greenhouse, then it is quite difficult to decide. Do not be gullible and immediately buy the seeds offered by the seller. We suggest that you independently study this issue, and pay attention to the key selection criteria. Here are the main aspects that will help you get the seeds right, and choose the best varieties of peppers:
- growing conditions;
- terms of culture maturation;
- resistance to various diseases;
- growing region;
- the height of the bushes (stunted plants are better suited for small greenhouses);
- light zone.
Such a useful and priceless vegetable as pepper is planted in greenhouses, but under certain conditions it ripens in the open field. This plant is quite difficult for beginners. To get a good harvest will allow knowledge of the agricultural technology of this crop, as well as compliance with the rules for its cultivation. Of great importance is the quality seedlings of peppers, which are obtained at home.
Peppers can be grown from seed correct understanding his agricultural techniques
Where to begin
Peppers do not tolerate cold weather and its drastic changes. For this crop, the temperature should not be below 18 degrees Celsius. Therefore, it is often grown in greenhouses. If there is no greenhouse, the seeds begin to be sown as early as February, so that they can be planted in open ground in May. If you plant pepper at the end of March, then the plants will begin to bloom only in August.
To get a crop of this vegetable, you must:
- choose the right type of pepper;
- prepare the soil and plant the seeds;
- grow seedlings at home;
- transplant seedlings into a greenhouse;
- maintain the conditions necessary for fruit ripening.
To plant seedlings in May, the seeds need to be planted in February
Which variety to choose
Pepper is hot, semi-sharp and sweet. There are no special differences between the cultivation of sweet bell pepper and its other types. All these plants are demanding on light, warmth and proper watering.
There are many varieties of pepper on the market today. Gardeners choose the desired color and shape of the vegetable, and also take into account the purpose of its consumption. If the pepper is planned to be used fresh, sometimes one variety is enough.
In the greenhouse, you can grow almost any variety, subject to the possibility of heating. They will not disappoint with their harvest "Big Papa", "Bogatyr", "Bugai", "California Miracle". For unheated greenhouses, "Ilya Muromets", "Player", "Orange Miracle", "Karapuz" are suitable. In the early stages, Pinocchio, Tenderness, Winnie the Pooh ripen, in the later periods Alyonushka, Swallow, Night.
Pepper Ilya Muromets is suitable for greenhouses without heating
Soil and seed preparation
Fertile soil is one of the important criteria for growing quality seedlings. Some gardeners purchase ready-made soil mixture. It should be loose, moisture-absorbing and light. You can also compose it yourself. To do this, mix the earth with turf and sand, in a ratio of 2: 1: 1. For ten liters of such soil, add one tablespoon of wood ash with superphosphate.
It is advisable to disinfect the resulting mixture with a solution of potassium permanganate. Garden soil is not suitable for preparing the substrate. If the soil is left from last year or taken from suburban area, it is necessary to warm it up in order to destroy possible pests. This is done on a baking sheet in the oven. You can boil the earth in a colander over a pot of water for an hour.
It is better for beginner gardeners to purchase special soil in order to avoid failures. The substrate "Biogrunt" is quite common and popular, and " living earth» already contains all the necessary fertilizers.
The strength and health of future sprouts depends on the seed, the preparation of which must be taken seriously. Before you start planting, you need to process the seeds. To increase germination, the following methods are used:
- First of all, the seed material is inspected and sorted out.
- Bell pepper seeds are kept in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for about 15 minutes, and then washed and dried. You can use solutions "Maxim", "Epin", "Fitosporin-M".
- To enrich them with useful trace elements, apply water solution potassium humate. You can put the seeds in a cloth and leave for three hours in a mixture of two grams of wood ash and a liter of water.
- To see the sprouts faster, the seeds are placed in wet gauze and left in a warm place. When a young stem appeared, they begin sowing in the prepared soil.
Substrate Biogrunt is suitable for growing pepper seedlings
Sowing seeds
Usually, the fruits ripen 100–150 days after the appearance of the first leaves, and the seedlings are planted after 60–80 days. But it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of each variety in order to accurately calculate the time for sowing.
Containers or pots for planting are prepared in advance by washing them in a solution of potassium permanganate or with laundry soap. It can be peat pots, and plastic cassettes. The best option would be dishes that decompose in the ground. Then it will be possible to plant sprouts in open ground without taking out the plants. Paper cups or peat pots are suitable.
The substrate is compacted into a container so that about two centimeters remain to its edge. Plant seeds no deeper than ten millimeters. The distance between them will be about three centimeters.
When using cassettes, one grain is placed in each cell. Then they are pressed down with a hand, sprinkled with soil mixture and watered abundantly.
The containers are covered with glass or film and left in a warm place. If several varieties were used, it is advised to designate them with notes with the appropriate names.
Pots with seedlings of pepper should be marked depending on the variety
seedling care
During the first week formed root system plants. Favorable temperature at this time is 14-16 degrees Celsius. Then it is raised to 25 degrees during the day and 17 at night.
After about a month, the first true leaves appear. During these days, it is necessary to water the seedlings once a week and fertilize with special fertilizers. A solution of one tablespoon of calcium nitrate in a bucket of water will do. A popular store drug is Kemira Combi.
Do not get carried away with watering. This can lead to the development of infection and death of the mouths. If the seedlings are rarely and unevenly moistened, they will shed their leaves and weaken. The water temperature should be about thirty degrees. Do not water peppers with cold water.
To grow a quality crop, you need sunlight. At home, you need to make sure that the seedlings stand on the window where there is more light. It is desirable that it be the south side. Sometimes you have to use additional lighting. If the crops are late, the illumination duration is three or four weeks, the rest of the seeds have two or three. Illumination should be uniform throughout the growing period.
Sometimes small bugs appear on the seedlings - aphids. They feed on leaf sap and damage plants. Many chemicals for pest control can not be used at home. Then come folk remedies. For example, five grams of ground soap are dissolved in one liter of water. The leaves of plants are washed with this composition. effective means, which will help get rid of insects, are also decoctions of yarrow or garlic.
With a lack of sun, peppers, like other vegetables, need to be illuminated.
Picking and hardening
Picking allows you to grow strong seedlings that can provide a high yield. It is a pinch of the final part of the main root. This is done for the growth of lateral and adventitious roots, stimulating the branching of the root system. When the seedlings have the first two leaves, you can start picking. If the seeds were planted in a common box, now they should be planted separately.
Pepper dive as follows:
- Seedlings are carefully taken and placed in the hole so that the roots do not bend and are freely located in the ground. Used as a container plastic cups or cassettes with a diameter of 8-10 centimeters. Their bottom should have small holes to prevent stagnant water.
- You can take the same soil as for sowing. The plant is placed in a hole, the root neck is advised to be deepened by 5 mm.
- The seedlings are then carefully watered and a nutrient solution for watering is applied, which consists of one teaspoon of potassium sulfate and ten liters of water.
- The containers are placed in a place protected from direct sunlight. Temperature fluctuations should not go beyond the norm. 13-15 degrees of heat are considered acceptable.
- After two weeks, you need to feed the plants. You can use ready-made fertilizers: "Krepysh", "Agricola", "Mortar". The second procedure is carried out after 14 days.
- After picking, it is advised to sprinkle with calcined sand around the stem. It contributes the best passage moisture to the root. Such a measure will protect the seedlings from the "black leg".
- Seedlings are watered once every 5 or 6 days, using settled water at room temperature. Top dressing and watering is carried out in the morning.
Young plants must be hardened by the sun. They are accustomed to the conditions environment a month before planting in the ground. Pepper is taken out to fresh air, gradually increasing the time spent on open area. You can take it out to the balcony or just open the window. But drafts should not be allowed, which can adversely affect the growth and development of seedlings. If the air temperature is below 12 degrees, they are not taken out into fresh air. Hardening will help grow fruits two weeks earlier.
Seedlings with two leaves can already dive
Landing in the ground
Seedlings are transplanted into the ground when the first buds have already formed and there are at least 8 leaves. The length of the stem usually reaches about 2.5 centimeters by this time. You can not miss the time of planting plants in the ground.
Peppers are planted at the end of May and until mid-June, and in the greenhouse this is done already in the first days of April. The soil should be warm enough, and the temperature should be 15-17 degrees Celsius.
Peppers take root better in the ground where cucumbers, pumpkin, carrots, cabbage or zucchini grew before. Before planting, it is necessary to water the seedlings with water to preserve the soil clod. The procedure is best done in evening time warm day. The plant is carefully removed from the container and placed in the hole until the first true leaves. They are very delicate and fragile, so they need to be tied to a support immediately after transplanting into the ground. Shallow loosening will help plants quickly adapt to new conditions.
To protect the pepper from low night temperatures and possible frosts, additional cover from the film should be provided. It is removed after the desired temperature is established, from about mid-July.
For future seedlings, it is necessary to extract the grains from the fruits of the vegetable. Peppers are cut along the edge around the stem. Then it is removed, and the seeds are shaken out and scraped out with a knife. They are dried under the sun, ground and cleaned of pulp and litter. In the case of spicy and semi-sharp varieties, protect the nose, eyes and mouth, and wear gloves. Seed material is stored for up to three years.
Despite some difficulties in growing seedlings, pepper remains one of the most popular and beloved vegetable crops. Experienced gardeners manage to get excellent fruits every year, whether it is hot, cold or rainy. The key to a rich harvest is a good mood and a desire to engage in this process. Then grow this bright and healthy vegetable anyone can do it.
Shoots of peppers will appear in 7-12 days if the temperature under the film is 24-26°C or higher. If it keeps below these values, then seedlings will appear later.
Pepper seeds will not germinate at all if the room temperature is below 20°C, the optimum temperature is 25°C. If the seeds have not sprouted from the ground after a certain period of time, they will have to be thrown away. The control period for pepper is 12-13 days.
Every three days you need to a short time open landings for ventilation. With the advent of seedlings, the seedling boxes must be immediately transferred to a lighted place where the temperature is slightly lower, and the film removed. Such a place can be a windowsill. Since the pepper does not stretch, the temperature of 20-22 ° C will be optimal for it. Seedlings should be regularly ventilated, but drafts should be avoided.
Pepper seedlings that sprouted in February should be additionally illuminated from 8 am to 8 pm. In the remaining hours, it is advisable to cover young seedlings up to 30 days of age with an opaque material. This technique helps to increase its resistance to low temperatures. In addition, seedlings will enter the fruiting phase earlier.
If you sow the seeds closer to mid-March, you will have to artificially illuminate the seedlings grown for a whole month from the moment the first shoots appear to the pick in pots. During the first three days after the emergence of seedlings, it is better to cover them around the clock, and then you should switch to a mode of 16-18 hours a day, in the morning and in the evening. Ordinary incandescent electric lamps are hung at a distance of 60 cm or more from the sprouts so that there are no burns. For illumination, it is best to take economical (fluorescent or energy-saving) fluorescent lamps, they illuminate the seedlings well, but do not overheat the seedlings, so they can be placed close to the plants. Fluorescent lamps (40 or 80 W) should be hung horizontally so that they are about 8-9 cm above the plants. On a cloudy day, the lamps are switched on from 8 am to 8 pm. On a clear day, use depending on the light situation in the room.
It is desirable to keep seedlings on a bright window: pepper is a light-loving plant, and it will develop worse in the shade. For better lighting, you can use mirrors or foil; you should also wash windows as often as possible, then the plants will be better lit.
Such light and temperature regime stand for 6-7 days, so that the seedlings give strong roots. Then the temperature is gradually increased: in the daytime in sunny weather - up to 23-25 ° C, in cloudy weather - up to 19-22 ° C, at night - up to 16-17 ° C.
It is important every 2-3 days to turn the seedling boxes with one or the other side to the window frame. Then the illumination of the seedlings will be uniform.
⇒ The root system of pepper is located superficially, so it needs frequent and plentiful watering. Especially often you need to water the plant during flowering: when the soil and air are too dry, flowers and ovaries can fall off.
At first, the seedlings do not need to be watered, it is enough to lightly sprinkle the dried soil. Irrigation of pepper is carried out 1 time in 3-4 days, only in the morning. For irrigation use warm settled water. Watering seedlings with magnetized water is very effective. To do this, water for irrigation must be passed three times through magnetic nozzles, which can be bought at the store.
Pepper seedlings can grow in a box until they have two true leaves. This usually occurs at the age of seedlings 30-35 days. During this time, seedlings should be watered moderately, no more than 1 time per week. Excessive moisture can provoke damage to plants with a "black leg". For irrigation use only warm settled water with a temperature of 26-28 ° C.
Picking pepper seedlings
Pepper seedlings are ready for picking, that is, transplanting from a small container to a large one, as soon as they have 2-3 true leaves. At this age, seedlings take root more easily. When picking, each pepper plant can be transplanted into an individual box or container.
Before picking, seedlings need to be fed once with a solution of calcium nitrate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water), and 2-3 hours before it is necessary to water. When transplanting dry seedlings, the soil will crumble from the roots, which is very harmful.
Seedlings can be dived into any suitable container - hollow peat pots or plastic cups of any size. The optimal pot size is 10 x 10 cm.
The selected container is filled with the same soil mixture that was used for sowing, then watered with a nutrient mixture solution of your choice:
1 tsp wood ash or potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water;
1 st. l. liquid fertilizer "Effekton", or "Agricola Forward", or sodium humate per 10 liters of water.
If after watering the soil has noticeably lowered, then you need to add the soil mixture, make a recess in the middle of the pot and plant the dived plant to the cotyledons, i.e. down to the bottom two leaves. There should not be a bare stem between the surface of the soil and these leaves. After 3 weeks, the picked plants need to be fed again.
By the way, many gardeners believe that pepper seedlings do not need to dive, they can grow before planting in the ground where they were planted at the beginning.
Pepper does not tolerate picking very well due to the fact that its roots are located close to the soil surface. They are weak and break off easily, so it is advisable to grow pepper seedlings without picking. It is better to immediately plant it in individual pots. Since pepper roots grow slowly, pots 8 cm in diameter can be used.
Caring for pickled pepper seedlings
After diving, it is preferable to place the seedlings in pots on the windowsill, but it is better to close the window glass for 1-2 days with paper, which will give moderate lighting.
The whole complex of care for dived seedlings consists of watering, fertilizing, hardening and observing the correct temperature regime.
At this time, the plants need regular watering: once every 5-6 days they must be moistened so that all soil mix in a pot was well moistened, but the water did not stagnate. There should be holes in the bottom of the pot to prevent stagnant water. If you accidentally allow the overflow of pepper seedlings, then growth may stop. The first time after picking, the plants are usually watered after six days, using settled water with a temperature of 25 ° C.
For better rooting of plants after picking for 3-4 days, you need to provide them moderately warm air: temperature 20-22°C during the day and not lower than 14°C at night. In the following days, you need to maintain a daily temperature of 23-25 ° C during the day and not lower than 18-20 ° C at night.
Feeding pepper seedlings
When growing pepper seedlings, you need to combine watering with top dressing. As a light top dressing, you can use such an affordable remedy as sleeping tea leaves (black tea). To do this, pour 1 cup of such tea leaves into 3 liters of hot water, leave for 5-6 days, then strain the infusion and water the seedlings with it. You can also prepare top dressing from eggshells: pour crushed shells from 10 eggs hot water and insist also 5-6 days; during infusion, you need to stir the product regularly, then strain and water the plants. An excellent result is obtained by feeding pepper seedlings with nettle infusion in a ratio of 1:10.
Because peppers have great need in potassium-phosphorus top dressing, then the seedlings can be watered every other time with water and ash infusion. To prepare it, you need 1 tbsp. l. wood ash pour 1 liter of hot water, leave for a day and strain. When the seedlings reach two weeks of age, you can feed it with a solution of complex fertilizer.
Mineral fertilizers are best applied under seedlings of pepper with dressings. The first dressing of seedlings is best done when it has 1-2 true leaves. For top dressing, dilute 0.5 g of ammonium nitrate, 3 g of superphosphate and 1 g of potassium fertilizers in 1 liter of water. After 14 days, a second top dressing is carried out, doubling the dose of mineral fertilizers.
The last top dressing is carried out 2 days before planting seedlings in a permanent place. At the same time, the dose of potash fertilizers should be increased to 8 g per 1 liter of water.
In cases where seedlings develop slowly, and the color of the leaves is light green, plants need top dressing more effective than nutrient solutions from improvised means. Then you can apply a fertilizer solution from the following components: 1 tbsp. fertilizer "Leaf" in combination with 2 tbsp. l. dilute Effekton fertilizers in 10 liters of water.
If the roots of beautiful green pepper plants do not develop well, then they need to be fed. In this case, 1 tbsp can be diluted in 10 liters of water. superphosphate or 1 tsp. potassium sulfate. You can prepare top dressing from a mixture of Agricola Forward and Effekton-U fertilizers: take 1 tbsp. of each agent and diluted in 10 liters of water. All liquid top dressings should be included in general rule water when watering seedlings, so that there is no excess liquid.
❧ It is advisable to carry out all watering and fertilizing of pepper seedlings only in the morning. This routine will help prevent blackleg seedling disease. If you water the seedlings in the afternoon, then the young plants will not have time to absorb moisture.
Pepper seedlings respond very well to wood ash: it can be poured 1-2 times into pots at the rate of 1 tsp. for 2-3 pots. But you need to add ash so that it does not get on the stems and leaves of plants.
Hardening off pepper seedlings
The temperature in the room where pepper seedlings are grown must be maintained at the level: during the day - 25-27 ° C, at night - not lower than 11-13 ° C. Before planting seedlings in a permanent place, it should be hardened off.
Hardening of pepper seedlings should begin no later than 2-4 weeks before planting in a permanent place in the ground - it all depends on local weather and climatic conditions. The hardening process is expressed in the gradual accustoming of seedlings to natural weather conditions, sunlight, relatively low temperatures (compared to room temperature) and fresh air. Hardening can be started only at positive temperature, when outside air warms up to 15°C. Conducting This procedure, it is important to carefully monitor weather conditions so that the seedlings do not fall under frost or lowering the temperature to 13 ° C, which is biological zero for pepper.
First you need to open a window or window frame in the room where the seedlings are located - depending on the air temperature outside.
As the air temperature outside the window rises, on clear days you can take the plants out onto the balcony, veranda, or even outside.
Seedling residence time fresh air you need to gradually increase, starting with 20 minutes a day. According to experienced gardeners, hardening seedlings gives a better result compared to hardening warmed up in warm water pepper seeds.
However, hardening in any form (at home or when taken outside) can only be carried out when there are no drafts in the room, and there is no strong, gusty wind outside.
Wind and drafts are detrimental to young plants. A weak warm breeze will only benefit the sufficiently grown seedlings.
Signs of good pepper seedlings
Good seedlings can be distinguished by many outward signs that talk about the health of young plants. First of all, an indicator of healthy strong plants is large leaves of saturated green color. The total volume of the leaves should visually exceed the volume of the stem, and this difference should be significant.
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The stem should be thick, not lignified, fitting well into the circle. It should not have a bend in the region of the root collar. In a healthy plant, the stem is always strong, consisting of compact internodes.
Leaves and stems should not have spots, any plaque and deformation, as well as signs of starvation or excess of individual nutrients.
A plant ready for planting can be carefully removed by turning the pot upside down and inspected without harming the roots. In healthy seedlings, the roots branch well before planting in the soil and have healthy white tips, and also braid around a clod of soil in a pot. If the plant has small and weak roots, the earth crumbles easily from them, it will have to wait with landing in a permanent place.
Plants by the time of planting seedlings should have approximately 8-12 leaves and single buds. If you plan to get an early harvest of pepper, then the seedlings should have 9-12 leaves and buds ready to open. If the pepper harvest is needed in the second half of summer, young seedlings with 7-9 leaves can be used.
Planting seedlings in open ground
Under normal conditions of the middle lane, pepper normally ripens only in a greenhouse or under a film in open ground. Without a film, it can only reach maturity in very hot summers.
The greenhouse where pepper is planted should be regularly ventilated, but at the same time remember that the plant does not tolerate drafts. The best greenhouse neighbor of pepper is cucumber.
A clear sign of the readiness of pepper for planting in a permanent place is the presence of 16-17 true leaves, or at least 10-15, and single buds. Optimal age seedlings - 55-65 days. Seedlings at the age of two months should be at least 20-30 cm tall.
If the deadline for planting in the ground is missed, then the overgrown seedlings are sick for a long time. The leaves on it often turn yellow and even fall off, flowers and the first ovaries may fall along with them.
If the seedlings ready for planting have bloomed, then it is better to remove the first flowers, otherwise not enough ovaries will form on the bush. It happens that plants transplanted into the soil do not bloom at all. This phenomenon can be explained by the fact that, being in the cramped space of the pot and a small volume of soil, the seedling gave all its strength to the formation of flowers and ovaries. When the plant, transplanted into open ground, received a large area for nutrition, it directed all its forces to the formation of the underground part, i.e., the roots. But there was a delay in the further formation of above-ground organs.
When to plant seedlings of pepper in open ground
Peppers, which are supposed to be grown in the greenhouse, can be planted from May 10th. It is recommended to plant seedlings in open ground in the period from June 1 to June 5. It is dangerous enough to start planting earlier than these dates, it would be wiser to wait until the last frosts have passed. Usually it is the beginning of June. Many years of experience in growing peppers shows that open ground is intended only for the southern regions of Russia, since the plant develops well at 27 ° C.
Pepper practically does not tolerate a sharp temperature drop, wind and direct sunlight - these are arguments against growing peppers in open ground. In addition, it is possible to maintain the desired air humidity only in the greenhouse.
However, if necessary, pepper seedlings can be planted after May 25, only with the obligatory covering of plants with a film - this is a compromise option. In hot weather, temporary film shelters must be opened slightly. But still, it is better to plant peppers even under a film after frosts.
Soil preparation
Sweet pepper is very demanding. It prefers light and rich soils. Therefore, the intended place for planting seedlings should be well fertilized with organic matter (compost, peat, humus) since the fall and add complex mineral fertilizer. For 1 m 2, it is desirable to add 5-10 kg of organic matter. It is best if it is introduced under the predecessor of pepper. In autumn, for deep digging, 60 g of phosphorus and potash fertilizers are added to the same area. In the spring, when preparing the soil, 40 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 m 2 are added to the topsoil.
If in the fall it is not possible to prepare the soil intended for planting pepper, in the spring you can dig it up and add a small amount of organic matter in the form of humus and superphosphate. However, before planting the pepper, the soil will need to be dug up again.
Pepper Planting Technique
The best time for planting sweet peppers is cool weather, preferably in the evening. To do this, you need to dig holes that are suitable in size, pour a little peat or compost into them, pre-mixed with fertile layer earth, and pour them with settled warm water.
Immediately before planting, the seedlings should be well shed with water so that the soil lump is preserved when it is removed from the pots. Some gardeners water pepper seedlings with melt water at room temperature, which is specially frozen on the street or in the freezer. When removing seedlings from boxes, the earth is not shaken off so as not to damage the root system.
When planting pepper seedlings in a permanent place, the plant is not buried much - deep planting is not suitable for it. But at the same time, peppers do not tolerate shallow planting - their roots die off. The ideal option would be to bury the peppers in the ground by half the stem, i.e. from the roots to the first true leaves.
Between plants of medium-sized peppers in a row, it is necessary to maintain a gap of 20-30 cm - in rare plantings, pepper grows and develops poorly. The optimal distance between the beds should be a distance of 50-60 cm. When planting pepper in a greenhouse, you must immediately install the pegs for the garter, so as not to injure the delicate plants later.
Experienced vegetable growers believe that in order to increase the yield when planting on plants, it is necessary to remove the central flower growing from the first branch.
❧ Pepper leaves and stems are brittle and brittle, so special care must be taken when planting seedlings, caring for plants and harvesting. Pepper flowers are located in the fork of the branches, one at a time or in a bouquet, and therefore it is not stepsoned or cut off.
Planted seedling care
In the process of growth, the roots of the planted seedlings must receive a sufficient amount of air. Wide aisles will help to provide the roots with air, which should be periodically loosened along with the beds. However, pepper roots are located close enough to the surface of the earth, so the soil can be loosened to a depth of no more than 7 cm.
Peppers are plants that are very demanding on moisture. They prefer fairly frequent, but not too plentiful watering. At any stage of plant growth, watering should be done only under the root and only warm water.
After watering, the soil surface should be mulched to ensure the desired level of moisture. Therefore, peat or straw, or any other mulching material, can be poured around the pepper stem, which will not allow moisture to easily evaporate from the soil.
It is advisable to feed the planted seedlings once a week or every 10 days with complex and organic fertilizers. It is optimal to apply top dressing along with watering. If there are few plants in the garden, you can add top dressing to the planted seedlings of peppers through spraying.
If peppers grow under film cover or in a greenhouse, you need to periodically lift the film to ventilate the plants. Only drafts should not be allowed, peppers cannot stand them at any age.
When yield problems begin in the garden plot, it's time to pay attention to the soil acidity index. If this level is 7 (with an overall pH scale of 0 to 14), the soil is neutral. Above 7 - it is alkaline. An indicator of unfavorable soil will be if the pH begins to tend to zero. And this means that the soil needs to be limed. Eggshell as a fertilizer, it reduces acidity or even makes the soil in the beds slightly alkaline, which is a boon for plants in most cases.
There are many ways of liming. You can do this with calcite, limestone, the appropriate preparations can be bought at gardening stores. Or you can go the other way, saving money and getting an effective neutralizer of excessive soil acidity and, in addition, an excellent fertilizer. It's just a simple eggshell.
Protection and fertilizer
Come on, how many eggshells do we take out with the trash every month? The average monthly consumption of these poultry products for an average family of 3 people is about 20 pieces. During the semi-annual (again, on average) Russian winter, shells from at least 120 eggs will go to landfills, where they, in combination with other ingredients that are incompatible with them, will only aggravate the existing ecological situation. And some families, if they are large and actively use eggs for baking, can boast of buckets of egg waste in the form of broken shells.
Introduced into the ground in the right proportion, crushed eggshells can work wonders in vegetable gardens and orchards, which in recent years may have ceased to produce a bountiful harvest.
Saving the shells for summer use in the garden is easy. It is only at first that the eggshell takes up a lot of space. It is necessary, without washing it from protein residues on its walls, to carefully decompose the halves of the shells (namely, in this form they are most often after breaking eggs) in a dry and warm place with the bottoms down, wait until it dries completely, and then, folding them into a plastic bag, knead with your hands, turning them into small crumbs.
The shell, when there is a lot of it and it lies compactly, can give an unpleasant hydrogen sulfide smell (the notorious "rotten eggs"). But it is undesirable to wash the shell before drying: dry each shell separately until a lot of it has accumulated, and the processes of decay of protein residues will stop or even begin. And the protein itself, being organic, will serve as an excellent natural fertilizer after adding egg crumble to the soil.
Shield against pests
- Interestingly, in addition to the role of a soil neutralizer, the compounds of calcium, magnesium, rare molybdenum, silicon, iron, chromium and fluorine contained in the eggshell, when combined with small crumbs of the shell with vegetable oil will serve not only as an alkalizer of the earth under potato bushes, but also as a deadly poison for one of the most unpleasant pests - the bear. Having tasted such a “treat” brought into the potato beds, this unpleasant huge insect will quickly turn on natural cycle humus.
- The shell as a fertilizer, sprinkled on potato or tomato bushes with Colorado beetle larvae, will cause them mass death in just 2 days. Such flour will serve as a repeller and insecticide for other forms of insect pests.
- Large eggshells also serve as a good horror story for moles: bumping into sharp edges, he will strive to leave such a dysfunctional, in his opinion, area.
- Scattering around cabbage beds or around trees or fruit bushes, large fragments of eggshells will not allow gastropods - slugs and snails to get to these plants. Once injuring its “leg” with sharp edges, the mollusk leaves a strong pheromone alarm in this place, which will warn others of the danger and protect plant leaves from being eaten by these pests.
The digestibility of the compounds contained in the shell by the soil is directly related to the degree of its grinding. The larger the pieces, the more for a long time required for their complete dissolution. And if you still vary the amount of shell crumbs introduced with its size, then you can prolong the effect of calcites and microelements for a long time.
Eggshell flour will be assimilated already in the year of application and can even cause alkalization of the earth under the beds. Large fragments, when the shell is broken into 20-30 parts, will decompose in the ground for 2-3 years.
How much, when and where
At different plants the need for acidic or alkaline soils is different. This is why eggshells are convenient because they can be applied in different dosages for different crops, changing the pH of the soil in the right direction.
But the ability to define exact value indicator of hydrogen ions is not obtained by everyone: somewhere the agrotechnical laboratory is located far from the place of residence, and for some its services will seem too expensive - after all, samples from the garden and vegetable garden must be taken from their different places, because the pH of the soil at different ends of the site can be very different!
But crops such as peas, beans, zucchini, cucumbers or strawberries do not need alkaline soil at all. The maximum that they agree to is a pH value of about 7, that is, neutral. But for melons, tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, cabbage, the soil can and should be limed, bringing the pH to 3-5. But how to determine the initial acidity without using instruments and reagents?
Weeds as indicators
On acidic soil, weeds such as tricolor violet, field horsetail, wild sorrel and plantain take root well.
Sedge, coltsfoot, oak and ranunculus anemone, creeping couch grass, nettle and broad-leaved bell and sweet clover settle on slightly acidic soils.
And if a corner of your garden is rich in bindweed plants and poppies, then the soil there is definitely alkaline!
Keep in mind that single indicators of acidity listed by plants are not - it can only be judged in the case of their mass growth.
Hardware methods for determining acidity
Of course, in practice, it is extremely rare to have soil with an acidity of 1 or 2 or an alkalinity of 12 to 14. These are already prohibitive values inherent, rather, in industrial zones with their chaotic dumping of anything and anywhere into the soil, than cultivated land in garden plots . Therefore, it is possible to purchase inexpensive pH meters with a range of readings for the presence of hydrogen ions in the soil from 2 to 12 for constant, year after year, use.
Preparation of ground eggshell for fertilizer
In addition to the role of a substrate for liming, the shell can also carry the following functions:
- Mulching. Large and medium fragments loosen heavy clay or podzolic soils well.
- Seed germination stimulator. In this incarnation, the eggshell with its calcium-carbonate compounds activates faster vegetable proteins contained in seeds ready for germination.
- Neutralization of excess minerals introduced into the soil earlier. Indeed, in addition to the natural causes of excessive acidity, it can be increased from the effects of mineral fertilizers. By neutralizing the action of some chemicals, the eggshell enhances the action of others that are beneficial to plants and soil.
- Collect shells from eggs in winter, at this time its density, and hence the content of calcite in it, is maximum.
- To obtain fertilizer from eggshells, it is better to take shells from raw eggs. If taken from boiled ones, then as a result of boiling, many substances useful for the soil will already be destroyed or unsuitable for absorption by plants. At best, such a shell is suitable for mulching. Therefore, if its output as a result of some culinary delights was great and it is a pity to throw it away, then save it separately, marked "Mulch".
- Any shell is suitable for use as a fertilizer, including those from chickens from poultry farms. Although, of course, shells from eggs laid by domestic chickens from farmsteads are preferable.
Preparation of shell fertilizer
Before drying, the shell should be washed only if there are no conditions for its effective and complete drying at home - then the protein residues, rotting, will give an unpleasant odor. If the kitchen has a well-functioning hood or even simple ventilation, taken away by a grate, then the shell can not be washed at all: it is enough to spread a newspaper on the top of the wall cabinets near such a grate and scatter the shell prepared for drying over it in an even layer.
It is easy to make sure that the ventilation is working at the right level: it is enough for smokers to exhale smoke near it, which will be instantly drawn into the ventilation if it is working normally. Or just bring a flame from a lit match to the grate.
Drying lasts 5-7 days, then the dried material is crushed in a dense plastic bag or cloth bag to the state of small fragments, from 1 to 5 mm. Later, if necessary, part of this substrate is ground into flour.
Shell use
Sprouting pots for seedlings
Soil is poured into half of the unwashed shell, a drainage hole is made in its bottom. A germinated sprout is planted in the soil, watered. After hatching and strengthening the sprout, the seedling is transplanted into open ground right in half of the shell. In the future, as it grows, the developed root system will itself break the shell and use its fragments as a nutrient medium.
Shell flour
It is usually used for growing tomatoes. Before planting seedlings in the hole, pour a teaspoon of eggshell ground in a blender or coffee grinder.
For indoor plants
Eggshells can be used as fertilizer not only for garden plants but also for home flowers. Put in three-liter jar the shell of 5-6 eggs without washing it, and fill it with warm water and place in the shade. After 4-5 days, the water will become very cloudy from putrefactive processes with the formation of hydrogen sulfide - but at such a concentration it will not act as a poison, but as a very effective fertilizer.
The shell itself can be used as drainage at the bottom of the pot. In addition to the drainage function, large fragments of the shell, slowly decomposing, will serve as an excellent calcium-carbonate fertilizer.
Aphid control
Flour made from shells will help with the elimination of aphids. It calcifies, immobilizes these small pests, enclosing them in a shell impermeable to oxygen and excretion of waste products. After drying, such "cemented" aphids are easily shaken off the leaves.
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good harvest from the garden is the result of not only hard and painstaking work, but also the use of various top dressings and fertilizers that supply crops with additional nutrients or compensate for their lack in the soil. For this, it is customary to use mineral fertilizers, which are a product of the chemical industry. But every gardener has the opportunity to reduce this article expenses, supplementing top dressing with organic matter. The latter also includes eggshells, which have been showing themselves well as a fertilizer for many decades. Here you will learn why it is so useful, how to make fertilizer from it and how to apply this substance to the soil.
The shell makes up from 12 to 20% of the total mass of the egg and contains a large amount of macro- and microelements. It would be unreasonable to lose the opportunity to use this material in the dacha economy and for feeding indoor plants. In the meantime, let's get acquainted with the composition of the eggshell and the content of various chemical substances.
Table number 1. The content of macronutrients in the eggshell.
Table number 2. The content of trace elements in the eggshell.
| Item type | Element content, µg/100 g |
|---|---|
| Iron | 2800-4200 |
| Zinc | 400-675 |
| Chromium | 130-180 |
| Fluorine | 125-150 |
| Copper | 90-150 |
| Cobalt | 70-80 |
| Manganese | 40-110 |
| Iodine | 35-50 |
| Molybdenum | 28-35 |
Eggshells are an excellent fertilizer for indoor and garden flowers.
As you can see, the shell is a complex fertilizer, which, in addition to calcium, contains great amount other macro- and microelements, which are also able to have a beneficial effect on plants. You can read more about this in the next section of the article.
The benefits of eggshells as fertilizer
The main advantage of eggshells is that they are actually free. Unlike mineral fertilizers or manure, the shell does not need to be purchased separately, just do not throw away the one that remains after cooking in the kitchen. But there are other benefits as well.
- High calcium content. This chemical element is necessary for a large number of plants, as it contributes to accelerated growth and strengthening of the root system. Also, crops that receive a sufficient amount of calcium are better protected from diseases and damage by various fungi. Eggshells can actually become a free source of such a useful chemical element.
Another advantage of the eggshell is called environmental friendliness. If for some reason you do not trust the mineral fertilizers produced by chemical industry, then the shell can be a good alternative. Eggshells, prepared as a tincture or powder, can be an effective nutrient for your plants.
A good harvest is always several components. All of them are important: the quality of the seeds, their proper preparation for sowing, the choice of variety, conditions and care. But there is one parameter whose influence is most important. This is the qualitative composition of the soil in which seedlings are grown. In more detail .
Preparing eggshell tincture and fertilizing houseplants
One of the most popular ways to use eggshells is to make a tincture-based liquid feed. Basically, it is used for indoor plants and flowers, but it can also be suitable for growing on a windowsill, or for crops already planted in the garden.
Step 1. Collect the eggshell. It is desirable that it be as complete as possible. The shell obtained when using raw eggs is preferable to the one left after cooking - it contains more useful macro- and microelements, which are so necessary for your plants.
Step 2 Rinse the inside of the eggshell with warm water. This is necessary to remove protein residues, which, upon receipt of the fertilizer, will begin to rot and give an unpleasant odor. A similar phenomenon in the preparation of shell tinctures is unfortunately unavoidable, but it is desirable to minimize this problem by washing the starting material.
Advice! In some cases, after (or before) washing, the eggshells are kept and dried for some time in a preheated oven.
Step 3 Fill a 0.75-1 liter jar with eggshells. The latter can be placed there both in a practically whole form (photo below), and in a crushed one (like what lies in the left bowl). If desired, turn the shell into a very fine powder using a coffee grinder or meat grinder.
Step 4 Fill the jar with warm water, tighten the lid tightly and let the liquid brew. The approximate time is 5 days for a 1 liter container. Shake the jar every day. An indirect sign of the readiness of the tincture is an unpleasant odor and turbidity of the water.
Step 5 Pour the infusion from the jar into a bucket of water in a ratio of 1:5, and then stir everything. The resulting solution will contain a certain amount of nutrients. Water your indoor plants or seedlings with it, and these macro- and microelements will get to them in the easiest way.
Step 6 Repeat the operation - pour water into the jar with the shell again and let it stand. With the same source material, this can be done 3-4 times.
Some gardeners and experienced houseplant owners prefer to use to make a tincture instead of tap water snow - it is cleaner and does not contain excessive amounts of chlorine or iron.
Preparation of eggshell powder - step by step instructions
Another common way to use eggshells as a fertilizer is to grind the source material to the state of a free-flowing powder, which is then poured onto the beds in certain dosages.
Step 1. Start by collecting the starting material - eggshells. It should be accumulated in advance, even starting from the autumn-winter period. The shell obtained from raw eggs shows itself best as a fertilizer, while the remains of boiled eggs show themselves much worse - in the process of cooking, some of the useful elements leave them.
Step 2 Place eggshells in a storage container. It can be a cardboard box, a glass jar (with a loose lid) or a cloth bag. It is undesirable to use plastic bags or plastic containers for these purposes - the shell must "breathe".
Important! Please note that during storage, the eggshell begins to emit an unpleasant odor. The reason for this is the protein residues on the inner surface, which begin to rot and decompose over time. Partially solving this problem will help you wash the eggshell in warm water or roast it in the oven, but you will lose some of the useful substances contained in the material.
Step 3 In the spring, before the start of the summer season or already in its midst, start preparing eggshell powder. This can be done in different ways.
- Crush the shell into medium pieces and then crush in a mortar. This method is laborious, but it does not require anything other than a mortar and pestle.
- Pack the shell in a tight cloth bag and then either roll it out with a rolling pin many times or tap it with a hammer. In this case, things go much faster, but some small particles may remain intact.
- Crush the shell by hand into medium pieces and then grind to a powder in a coffee grinder. One of the most effective ways- at the exit you get a loose fertilizer, which is very convenient to work with.
- Some gardeners grind eggshells in a blender (previously diluted with water) or a meat grinder. In terms of their effectiveness, these methods are inferior to a coffee grinder, but they are quite applicable.
Important! When working with eggshells, exercise some caution - if you are inattentive about the sharp edges, you can get hurt.
Step 4 Pour the resulting powder into a cloth bag or jar and store the container in a dark and warm place until direct use.
Video - Eggshell as a fertilizer
Application of eggshell powder fertilizer in the garden
Eggshell powder, prepared according to the method described in the previous section of the article, must be applied to the soil not immediately, but gradually. The first time - when planting seeds or seedlings along with other organic and mineral fertilizers. At the same time, from 30 to 50% of the total amount of the shell is introduced. This process is called primary feeding.
The remaining amount of powder is divided into equal shares, introduced with other top dressings. Considering that there are not many eggshells, it would be rational not only to scatter it over the garden, but to bring it directly into the holes, around the stems of the plants. For the entire summer season, you should use from 0.3 to 1 kg of powder per 1 m 2 or per unit of crop. Therefore, if you have little eggshell fertilizer, then use it only in the most important areas of the beds, approach consumption rationally.
It is also worth saying that there are plants for which the use of this substance will have the best effect. Conversely, there are those cultures for which it is undesirable to use eggshells. The first group includes:
- lettuce and other greens;
- swede;
- pumpkin and other gourds;
- fruit and berry trees and bushes - apple, cherry, currant, raspberry, etc.
And you should not use eggshells as fertilizer for zucchini, spinach and violets.
Important! If you combine eggshells with other organic or mineral fertilizers, then adjust their dosages applied to each plant or each square meter beds. Remember that an excessive amount of some chemicals is just as harmful to crops as a lack of these micro and macro elements.
Egg shell for seedlings
AT recent times peat pots for germinating seedlings are becoming very popular. At first, they are used as small containers, where a strong and “promising” sprout is obtained from a seed on fertilized soil. Then this pot is placed in the ground, the seedling is not removed from it. The peat container in the soil decomposes, and the plant continues its development further. Egg shells can also be used in a similar way.
Step 1. Prepare the shell. She must be off enough large eggs(for purchased, this is the “selective variety” group, also referred to as C0). The presence of severe damage to the shell is undesirable - when breaking eggs, remember that the shell for the protein and yolk will then go to the pots for seedlings.
Step 2 Rinse the inside of the shell with warm water. In the lower part, carefully make a hole with a pushpin or a needle - it is necessary for drainage. In the absence of a hole in the event of excessive watering, the soil in the impromptu will be excessively wet, which may not have the best effect on the health of the sprout.
Step 3 Half fill the eggshell with soil. Given that we are talking When it comes to germinating seedlings, it is best to use store-bought garden soil that has a lot of nutrients.
Step 4 Place the seeds in impromptu pots made from eggshells, sprinkle with earth on top. Pour a small amount of water if necessary.
Step 5 Place the shelled pots on the egg tray or box they came in. Then lay everything together on the windowsill, under the sunlight. Wait until the seedlings are ready to plant in the soil. Do not forget to monitor the condition of the plants and water them regularly.
Step 6 When the seedlings reach the desired state, plant them in open ground right in the eggshell. At the same time, lightly squeeze the latter to break, but not damage the sprout. Thus, the shell will decompose over time in the ground, and the seedlings of crops in the garden will receive useful substances for growth.
